That is one of the best detailed and explained videos on oven building around. You did a GREAT job of designing the oven, AND documenting the build. Thanks for taking the time for all that video editing work.
LOL! I'm charged up for you man... Good luck with your build; I'll be shocked... if you aren't successful. Thanks for... relaying... me your feedback on this video!
@@RedBeardOps Sorry to be cheesy... but I'm just over here... wired... on some coffee. I think I have the... capacity... to tackle this project, but we will see! :)
Thank you for sharing this! This walkthrough was super helpful and the equipment list is such a great resource. I created a parallel build and found that making the channels in the fire brick with tight tolerance for my coil diameter caused my bricks to crack when the Kanthal expanded. Maybe a lesson learned that could help other viewers.
Great job. I'm an electrician and very impressed with your explanation. You can add a cooling fan to box to keep components cooler. I have been wanting to make one and I love your design.
Your build videos are second to none. Truly. Thank you. If you come to my shop you will find your press and your oven. To build these projects was inspiring. To document and freely share hit the high mark. Thanks again!
Nice build - really excellent result, and very good and detailed description. Just a note for any one building one. There is no point in using two SSRs - one for each end of the coil, when you are on a single phase. The current you run through one is the same current you run through the other. You just get double the voltage drop over the SSRs (which is probably insignificant in this case), but main point is no benefit and twice the cost and hassle of wiring. And as noted by others, no reason to fuse the PID with a big fuse separately. The manufactorers pdf manual for the controller has a wiring suggestion for a heater build that should be followed - it uses the correct wiring with regards to fusing and using one SSR.
Yeah, a wonderful project:) And you are absolutely correct with your analysis: The wiring is SERIAL, one net-loop, so no need for two silicon state relays. Just some engineering background (and advice, nobody asked for **g** ): Red Beard says something like "... a fuse to protect the PID [regulator] ...". That fuse should then be dimensioned to the max input current of the device, denoted by the datasheet. For the protection of normal devices 1.1 to 1.2 x nominal current / slow blowing fuse. Or to protect semiconductor devices (like SSRs) with 1.2 to 1.5 nominal current but with fast blowing or semiconductor rated fuse(Ballpark numbers, if present use the values specified by the manufacturer = RTFM:) ). But for such a small and relatively simple (in contrast to a complex) device? After all, also those fuses are ADDITIONAL to the ones he already wired in, which (the background part: ) are fuses to protect the WIRING! Like in your house-installation. They serve the purpose that in the event of a short circuit (heating element or regulator or the wiring itself or some dumb human juggling a screwdriver ...), the entire wiring does not turn into a fire hazard/heating element itself. The fuses must therefore be designed according to the conductor cross-section and thus the rated current. If the/a secondary fuse is dimensioned as a device protection fuse, then the correct value for the special device must also be selected. Anything in between, or "by feel" doesn't make any sense at all:) Just my (and by the basics of electrical design) 2 Amps ... I meant cents. About Cable Glands: I found it wonderful, that he works with cable glands. That is professional. But ... cable glands are for ONE cable, each[1]. The great thing about them is the screwable and totally sealing strain relief. If you use two cables or even three .... then you can omit those things. And please don't say anyone DUCT TAPE. We have enough plonkers here, who shoot themselves in the foot, regularly on TH-cam:) [1] That solves also the mystery, why they come in different sizes ... :P About Thermoelements: Whats positive and what is negative? No needs to speculate. Red Beard has mentioned his "high quality super duper multimeter". USE IT! Use a heat gun and measure the output voltage of the element. Then you KNOW!:) (Also good advice for dogs and color blind people, hehe)
Excellent tutorial! In the process of wrapping mine up. I have the first heat cycle going now. Just have to add a back panel and paint. You made it super easy to build. I appreciate it!
35:36 hey man I built this kiln and it works flawlessly except I added a second thermo coupler and I have a 300 degree difference between the one on the lid and the additional. What would you recommend doing about it. The second one is not a cheap thermo coupler.
That's interesting that you're getting different readings. I'd suggest making sure they're calibrated with a bucket of ice water or something along those lines
Great video! Coming from a pottery background, if you need to help keep the elements in their grooves, you can take old/extra element wire and bend it into a J shape. Then just push them into the soft brick where needed.
Absolutely superb video! I used it as a guide when I made my own control box and I just test ran it. Everything worked perfectly! Thank you very much for having made this video.
I'm a jewelry artist and it one point I was thinking of making my knives from scratch and than engraving them. After watching this video I think I will just buy blank knife blades from folks who have put in so much time and equipment into their work. There is only so much time and space we have to do the things we love. Your video has only made me more aware of the craftsmanship and skill that goes into knife making. Thank you.
I’m just getting started after having build my first forge a few years ago and selling it. Now building a new forge, next will probably be a belt grinder and for sure this will be one over build that I’ll take inspiration from. Great job.
Hope yall liked this one! As a reminder the links to the wiring diagram and components are in the description. Cheers! 🙌 -- If yall found this helpful and want to support the channel, the amazon links in the description are affiliate links and here is the RBO patron - www.patreon.com/RedBeardOps
Great video and great timing, I pretty much did the same thing as you looking at all those different resources and combining them into the design I want, I have all my parts sitting in a box in the shop, just gotta get around to starting it!
You did a wonderful job making your furnace, and a tremendous job putting together your video! I really appreciate your step-by-step narration and instructions. It was not too slow, not too fast. I feel like you hit a near perfect video on many levels! Please keep up the great work.
@@RedBeardOps A few times through and, as much as I love the video I think I'm gonna tap out on this one and save up to buy one. Mechanical and structural stuff is one thing. But screwing with electricity at that level is a bit beyond my ken. In the immortal words of Dirty Harry: "A man's got to know his limitations." o7
Really nice build on that oven. I just finished building mine about 2 weeks ago and although not as aesthetically finished as yours it does the job. I built mine with inside dimensions of width 6" x height 5.5" x depth 22.5". Wanted to be able to heat treat the camp choppers I make. Was able to do it for just under $500. Most expensive parts were the bricks and the angle iron since I didn't have any angle on hand. I used an Inkbird PID which seems to work quite well. I am having issues with the crappy hinge I used for the door so will have to go with something like you used. Looks a lot more sturdy. Again great build.
Great video and build! I'm half way through building mine. One question, the terminal block and PID don't fit the 12 gauge u ends am I missing something?
The terminal blocks fit my 10 AWG wire (raw wire) The U-ends I used on my 12 AWG wire did fit the PID... you many need to find/use some smaller ones if the ones you're using aren't working. Or grind down the ends until they fit.
I figured it out the link in the description takes you straight to 15 Amp terminal blocks (which I bought) that are smaller than the 20-25 Amp blocks you used. Got them order and on the way!
Really great built video! Thank you for putting this up. I'm going to build an oven for aluminum casting and this will be a great help. Love the idea of using a benchtop drill press as an overhead router for the bricks - that's genius actually. If you used a regular router or router table all that silicon dioxide dust would probably completely destroy the router. But with the drill press, the motor and bearings are mostly out of the way. Such a good idea!
Awesome tutorial, I´ve already made my own oven, but for me the main problem was the fire bricks. I can only find here in Brazil refratary bricks that were solids as a rock and to cut them were very difficult. I used only one SSR and after 10 min it melts, so I used a air cooler. Your oven it´s great, on of the best diy on YT!!!
A tip for cutting the flashing or any sheet metal. Lay it down flat and use a straight edge and sharp utility knife and make a couple passes scoring it and then bend it and it will break perfectly. It basically looks like a factory edge. You don't have to cut nearly as deep into it as might think. I've done it with steel and aluminum. You can use a brake to bend and snap if you have one available. I do aluminum flashing on exterior trim which is how I learned this trick. It's amazing how you can make something like this without a bunch of super expensive tools. I thought that drill press was some really high end model until I looked it up and saw that it's very reasonably priced. I have a similar sized one from Harbor Freight but that one looks nicer to me. This looks like a lot of work, but totally worth it with the price of pre made ones.
this is awesome, my only problem. couldn't you have released this a month ago before I started building my propane oven lol. This will be my next oven build for sure, thanks for such a comprehensive tutorial.
Have you noticed any degradation of the ceramic terminal blocks on the back of your kiln? I've notice they seem to get a lot hotter than I would like when I heat treat steels like 10v with high austenizing temperatures, with a decently long hold time. Also for the placement of the limit switch I had good luck placing it so that the button is pushed in more than necessary, that way it doesn't turn off after thermal expansion.
@@RedBeardOps I forgot to add to that, the main reason I asked is they had gotten a bit too hot and there has been some degradation to mine. Although, after really stuffing the back full of kaowool, it does seem to help. I'm not sure how I can stop them from getting hotter than I would like.
@@RedBeardOps so I've got at update on the oven. I've gone ahead and made some modifications to mine. You may have seen them on blade forums. I moved the terminal blocks to a point outside the aluminum flashing, as well as thethermal couple (I moved the thermal couple earlier on, because it was melting the insulation for the wire). I had to make new coils with longer twisted leads. But now that the terminal blocks arent attached to the body of the oven they arent getting heated all. Which is keeping the connection from getting degraded do too oxidation. Something I also did, but somewhat unrelated. Is I coated the inside of the chamber with 100 ht ceramic coating, for kilns and forges. It's supposed to protect the firebrick, and also it's supposed to reflect heat leading to a quicker heat up time (since I'm only using 110v at 15 amps that matters more, though even then it's not too bad). So I put a layer over the entire inside of the oven, also taking the coils out and putting it in the groves where those sit. I havent fully fired it up since I've added this coating. So I'll see what effect if any its had. That's all the changes I've made that I can think of since i initially completed this. I think the only other thing I really want to do, is buy an even longer thermal couple to get closer to the area my blade will be sitting, and also do so research and see if accuracy is possibly effected by using cheaper thermocouples like the one I have now.
I've been doing automotive and industrial wiring for nearly 20 years now. When in doubt on wire size, always go bigger. It leaves room later to expand the part/machine and it guarantees smooth operation.
6:35 It's important to note that at 1200C the Kanthal A-1 wire has an increased resistance of around 4%, important to factor in the resistance at operating temp rather than just at room temp
I completed most of the wiring today, just have to make and connect the elements, and detail the power supply. Fun build, man! Thanks for making it easy!
Excellent build! I recently built a slightly smaller version for burning out investments using all of the info you provided in this video. I do have a question for either you or anyone else who can assist. I wired up a 240v 20amp plug as you recommended. plugged it in, the first red switch light up but once I flicked it on everything shut off. I didn't just trip the breaker, I somehow tripped the whole panel. The breaker it was wired up to was rated for 60 amps. Did I wire it up to a much to large breaker? I will have to go through the electric box and recheck my connections but I was sure it was all wired up correctly. Would this run on a standard 120v 12amp outlet if I cant get the 240v plug to work? Thank you very much!
Hey man, I'm not an electrician by any means. Please be super carful here; I really don't know what's going on with your machine. My best advice is to go over the wiring diagram again to make sure you have it all right; including the ports on the PID. You may want to consult an actual electrician too.... do this stuff at your own risk man, it's super dangerous.
Excellent video and commentary. It has me motivated to construct one myself. I noticed that you appear to be utilizing some sort of breathing apparatus while shaping the ceramic blocks. Please share what it is.
You could widen the element track for better exposure and lower coil temp, but leave a 0.5" section every couple of inches intact to continue capturing the coil.
Nice detailed description. Just a safety warning regarding the door switch. You mentioned in the beginning that you did this to prevent possible electrocution. But you may never assume that the SSR provides full electrical isolation and you should always use a relay with mechanical contacts to switch both sides of the coil off. For anyone building this: if you buy a PID controller that is different from the one used, make sure it is a controller with an electrical output for SSR use. I originally bought a PID controller with a relay contact and this only allows for slow switching. The SSR plug-in unit I had to buy for that PID controller enables faster switching resulting in a more stable temperature.
Nice build. Thank you for going through the mistakes you made and how you corrected them as well. Thats a big help to all of us attempting tbe same project.
Nice video and well done. By far from the videos I have watched this seems to be the most details. Thank you for that, wish you the best in your future endeavors.
Awesome build mate! Very inspirational for an aspiring knife maker. Super informative and really well paced video. Thank you very much. Greatly appreciated.
I'm not an electrician, but I think it could work with a single SSR. From what I understand the dual SSR set up reduced load and temps... and extends life.
Something to consider is the surface loading of the wire. based on your calculations you get 30 watts/sq-in. if you're getting your oven up to or above 2000F then you're going to have shorter coil life. Ideally for operation around 2000F it should be closer to 20 watts/sq-in. the trade off would be how fast the coils reach the desired temperature, however in a smaller chamber the difference might be negligible.
Superb build& impressive video plus details guide for guys like me, beginners with small budgets and big technical resources congratulation again ! Cheers from Argentina
166 / 5000 Resultados de traducción Excellent oven !!! ... I am building a similar one and I am already working on the electrical part. Watching your video, I wondered why you placed 2 SSRs? Thank you!
One way to save heating element is to stretch the coils to separate, then hop coils until the proper resistance value is achieved based on multimeter ohms, THEN cut the wire. Great build.
I have followed your lead on building my oven and everything has worked very well. You have the best video to guide a builder. I’m just not comfortable with the results of my resistance calculations. If you could answer a question about the calculations I would be very grateful. Did you decide on a wattage and just go with the resulting ohms? My results left me with ~9 ohms which is very little 16ga. Kanthal wire for a 0.6 cu.ft oven. Any thoughts?
Glad you're getting value out of it! Please be carful with electricity... stuff is dangerous. I started off with AMPS. I wanted to run the 220 oven on a 20 amp breaker. 20 amps derated by 2/3 gives me 13.33 amps. I then used that to solve for ohms. Once I have the ohms I can calculate the watts of the oven. - There is a calculator here as well - dcknives.blogspot.com/p/electric-forge.html
came out great, those brick grooves should save a lot of hassle. you definitely don't need to fuse the PID though, as fuses don't actually protect the appliance from failure, they protect against already failed appliance from causing a fire + melting the wire insulation. plus, PID controllers don't operate anywhere close to 1amp, its only a few milliamps (around 2ma to be exact) and there's such a low chance the PID will short circuit (compared to a heating coil circuit), that there's still no point installing in a very tiny milliamp range fuse. Bizarrely, I have seen quite a few builds were people have unnecessarily fused the PID controller, so it seems to be a trend that's caught on. Otherwise, it's still a great build :D
There is one case where the operator can get bit - where one of the solid-state relays shorts out and stays on. The heater will still operate normally, and the heater will still be disabled when the door is opened, leading one to think that everything is fine. BUT: the relay that is stuck on is still connecting voltage through the entire length of the heater, presenting a potential shock hazard - even if it is thermally cold. The right way (more expensive, of course) is to have the door switch operate a contactor (a big relay) that removes power from both ends of the heater. The cheap less safe way is to add an indicator light to either end of the heater and neutral (not ground). If it's on when the door is opened, it's a red flag that the wires still have voltage on them.
@@RedBeardOps Yeah it's a tricky "corner case." It's only a problem here in the US where we have 240V with a center neutral, so effectively, both ends are hot. This means that both ends of the heater have to be switched, as you've done. In the UK, they get straight 240V with no center neutral, so only need one switch on the hot side. Your build, and especially your voice-over, is really excellent; the best I've seen for any oven build on YT. I'll be building one as well, based in part on your design. I'm taking to heart what you said about the door sealing and may do a counterweight door where gravity holds it shut. Thanks again for the video!
This is an exceptionally nice build for a DIY effort, and I could see this being ever so slightly modified for a fully professional outfit. Man, nice job! I also went with an Auber PID though the next stage up that has a USB function so you can program on the PC and save your ramps and cools. Doing it directly through the PID isn't impossible, but having a folder of easily accessible and swappable profiles that you can add more functionality is a nice feature to have for down the road. My oven is a bit of an oddball as it's design is for a very large crucible and a reduced oxygen environment that can heat treat specific materials, graphitize, smelt, etc.
@ Red Beard Ops I don't know the heat specs of your control box, but without an exhaust fan and ventilation holes, you risk damage to your components from the heat of the SSR's...the heat sinks need a method to get rid of the heat from the SSR's, and plastic won't do that without exhaust holes and a fan...your SSR's might show 120 deg, but all that heat has no place to go...just my thoughts on it...nice build
Haven't had to replace anything. Still going strong! If I had to do it again I would have used a metal box on the side; plastic just feels cheap-ish for something that gets hot.
This is a really awesome tutorial/video appreciate all of the hard work that went into this. THe knife making making community has some really great content and yor stuff is on the top of that. THANKS!
Hey man, i just finishe building an oven using your video and it turned out great, thing is, i cant figure out how to turn it on or set it. Ive never used a pid before. Can you help me out please?
Hey Fabbin, that PID controller can be pretty confusing. There are some youtube videos on the set up so I'd advise searching for the number. It would be hard to explain in text
Just finished 'coiling' my heating wire, and using your wood block technique (with the tip to maintain slight pressure) it went perfectly. Brilliant! You saved me from hours of winding by hand and likely unsatisfying, mediocre result.
NOTE: There are counterfeit Chinese SSRs on the market. I bought one through the snake company and then found an article that described the difference between the genuine and the counterfeit. They are labeled as handling a higher amperage than they actually can carry, and the genuine manufacturer has discontinued that particular line of SSRs due to this counterfeiting. My advice is to buy SSRs from a reputable electronics supplier, and avoid any low-priced 'deals' that you see online.
Excellent idea putting the switch on the door. I electrocuted myself in a high school jewelry class doing just that. Far and away the biggest shock I've ever had.
I am seeing a pattern here in the comments:) I am serious when I say all the way from your prep/ and planning work to the explanation/ narration to video. So well done. Kudos.
you did 1 hell of ajob on that oven it came out fantastic glad you finally did this video i wish it was here a few months back but im happy with my oven i built
Just ordered the parts. I have two questions: 1) if I extend the bed by one brick (4.5 inches), do I have to use more coil or can I stretch the coil a bit more? 2) Do I need a 30 amp breaker to get to 18.4 ohms resistance, assuming I need more wire?
Tom, I built this a while ago... so I'm trying to remember things to look out for. I think if you extended by 4.5 inches you should be ok on the stretch. Just be very carful to stretch the coil evenly. I break down the math in the video. In my case I decided to target a target amps of 13... which works out to requiring an 18.4 OHMS wire. This runs just fine on a 20 amp 240v breaker. (5:57)
I don't recall the exact dimensions. You'll have to do that math with the bricks you get and insulation. I don't see why it wouldn't work with 240v as long as the components you order are rated for that.
I am struggling to get the oven up to 1925. Any tips for better insulation? I recaulked all my interior joints with the same furnace cement used in the video, and that helped. FYI for anyone that had issues with the mortar, I found this stuff in the caulk tube worked much better, as far as holding the bricks together. I added a soft firebrick inside the oven in order to reduce the amount of space I needed to heat since my knives are all small. I also considered adding a layer of ko wool with satanite to the inside top of the furnace. I'm also considering adding satanite to the exterior ko wool. Any other suggestions to improve the insulation?
Man sorry to hear you're having issues. Mine gets up to 1925, but it does take a bit. May be worth verify your resistance on the coils and calculated watts
@@RedBeardOps that is definitely something I should do, thanks for the advice. I've been trying to get it up to temperature all day. I finally gave up turned everything off and cracked the door open. I just looked and apparently my thermometer is melting... The steel inside the ceramic coating is bending downward. Ever had anything like that happen before?
A very convenient way to cut aluminum flashing is to score it with a matt knife and flex it a couple times to snap it, makes a very straight clean line.
Amazing video! I plan on making a control box this summer with an Arduino, and additional parts. A quick tip for those making your coils at home. For a more accurate reading on callipers, you should use the tips of your calliper’s lower jaws. That point is the most accurate due to the slight taper in the jaws.
Thank you for compiling all the information into this video! I built a similar device a few years back, in seeing yours I now have solutions to the things I didn't like about my build. Thank you again! Now I have explore your other videos and subscribe...
I don't know how many times I watched this video....but it was a lot :) Yes I built it, works great and I love it. I was shooting for 3200 watts based on 18 ohms and 240V. But yeah, my ohms ended up at 18.5 and my power supply measures out at 247V, so that calculates out to 3297 watts. Not complaining about that at all. One thing about the wiring diagram, and like you I am not an electrician, but we sure play hard at it lol. So I'm reading the wiring diagram as providing power to the element from the + sides of both SSR's. Am I reading that right? In any event I did not do that, I followed your wiring in the video and in the video the element is wired from the + side of one SSR and the - side of the other. Please let me know about the diagram....if I'm reading it right.
I'll be honest this is so long ago at this point I forgot a lot of the build. I'm not sure if it matters on the power side as long as you make the circuit appropriately... but don't quote me. Glad it worked out for you!
Nice! You really had to throw the info at us quickly to cover everything, but it was perfect. Great detail and very clearly filmed, edited and narrated. Well done and thank you.
Thing is, I do have a journeyman electrician sertification. I used to be a general contractor for the purpose of installing home theaters. Sometimes you have to add a room to the house to get the job done.
I’ve watched this video a few times now and i think I’m gonna make it but do you think following these plans/designs i could make it vertically and or run on 120v
Thanks for all the knowledge you share. You are a great teacher. I have everything in my Amazon cart just have to hit that button which I will eventually get around to. I know this is alot better option vs paying $2200. Do you recommend starting off with this for newbies or would you recommend starting with a forge? I just plan on heat treating and am not planning on forging, at least anytime soon.
For heat treating, yes, I'd say this is better for sure. The forge is more versatile if you want to do any type of knife forging or blacksmithing... But heck, when I was making mostly stock removal knives, I probably would have been better served with just an oven.
I dount that a professional person could do it better. Congratulations, a job perfectly done. You didn`t neef years of practice for that, It was rather the way you think. Excellent!
Wow so much detail! Thanks so much. I followed you and built my own. Seem to be having the same problems as you. Won’t go above 1100. Did you figure out why you were having problems?
@@RedBeardOps oh sorry I thought u were having a hard time. I can’t figure out why I can’t go over 1100. I have 17.8 on my coil. Good seal all the way around. Any advice would be great! Thanks again so much.
@@waynesmith9421 Hey Wayne, two things. Make sure your thermo couple is wired right. Maybe test it with ice water to see if it holds zero. It's comment these wires can be flipped. Also, dig into the controller set points. I'm not sure what controller you're using, but the Auber is pretty confusing.
Holy moly man the way you cut in those heating element slots was genius
Thanks man! Glad you enjoyed that. Seems like a good solution for sure.
Can't say I've ever seen someone chuck up a router bit in a drill press... Until now!
That is one of the best detailed and explained videos on oven building around. You did a GREAT job of designing the oven, AND documenting the build. Thanks for taking the time for all that video editing work.
Wow, thank you sir! Glad you enjoyed it for sure. Have a great weekend!
Ditto
Man I'm... amped! I don't think I'll be able to... resist... the temptation to build one of these ovens!
LOL! I'm charged up for you man... Good luck with your build; I'll be shocked... if you aren't successful. Thanks for... relaying... me your feedback on this video!
@@RedBeardOps Sorry to be cheesy... but I'm just over here... wired... on some coffee. I think I have the... capacity... to tackle this project, but we will see! :)
Thank you for sharing this! This walkthrough was super helpful and the equipment list is such a great resource. I created a parallel build and found that making the channels in the fire brick with tight tolerance for my coil diameter caused my bricks to crack when the Kanthal expanded. Maybe a lesson learned that could help other viewers.
Great job. I'm an electrician and very impressed with your explanation. You can add a cooling fan to box to keep components cooler. I have been wanting to make one and I love your design.
Thank you greatly sir! I'm glad I hit enough points to make an electrician like this one! I most certainly am not one.
Your build videos are second to none. Truly. Thank you. If you come to my shop you will find your press and your oven. To build these projects was inspiring. To document and freely share hit the high mark. Thanks again!
Awesome! Glad they were helpful! Cheers
Looking really good! I appreciate how much time you spent documenting and editing. Great reference.
Glad you enjoyed it! Man your blog was so damn helpful! Thanks man. Have a great weekend. 🙌
Videos like this is the reason why I watch TH-cam. Excellent work
Thank you Dan!
Great video!! I’ve probably watched it 20 times. I’m a new knife maker and I built this oven with a few changes but it has been a game changer. Thanks
Heck yeah man! Awesome to hear it helped
What details did you change in your build, & why?
@@schechter01
I’m running off a 30 amp breaker so I increased the power.
Nice build - really excellent result, and very good and detailed description. Just a note for any one building one. There is no point in using two SSRs - one for each end of the coil, when you are on a single phase. The current you run through one is the same current you run through the other. You just get double the voltage drop over the SSRs (which is probably insignificant in this case), but main point is no benefit and twice the cost and hassle of wiring. And as noted by others, no reason to fuse the PID with a big fuse separately. The manufactorers pdf manual for the controller has a wiring suggestion for a heater build that should be followed - it uses the correct wiring with regards to fusing and using one SSR.
Yeah, a wonderful project:) And you are absolutely correct with your analysis: The wiring is SERIAL, one net-loop, so no need for two silicon state relays.
Just some engineering background (and advice, nobody asked for **g** ): Red Beard says something like "... a fuse to protect the PID [regulator] ...". That fuse should then be dimensioned to the max input current of the device, denoted by the datasheet. For the protection of normal devices 1.1 to 1.2 x nominal current / slow blowing fuse. Or to protect semiconductor devices (like SSRs) with 1.2 to 1.5 nominal current but with fast blowing or semiconductor rated fuse(Ballpark numbers, if present use the values specified by the manufacturer = RTFM:) ). But for such a small and relatively simple (in contrast to a complex) device? After all, also those fuses are ADDITIONAL to the ones he already wired in, which (the background part: ) are fuses to protect the WIRING! Like in your house-installation. They serve the purpose that in the event of a short circuit (heating element or regulator or the wiring itself or some dumb human juggling a screwdriver ...), the entire wiring does not turn into a fire hazard/heating element itself. The fuses must therefore be designed according to the conductor cross-section and thus the rated current. If the/a secondary fuse is dimensioned as a device protection fuse, then the correct value for the special device must also be selected. Anything in between, or "by feel" doesn't make any sense at all:) Just my (and by the basics of electrical design) 2 Amps ... I meant cents.
About Cable Glands: I found it wonderful, that he works with cable glands. That is professional. But ... cable glands are for ONE cable, each[1]. The great thing about them is the screwable and totally sealing strain relief. If you use two cables or even three .... then you can omit those things. And please don't say anyone DUCT TAPE. We have enough plonkers here, who shoot themselves in the foot, regularly on TH-cam:)
[1] That solves also the mystery, why they come in different sizes ... :P
About Thermoelements: Whats positive and what is negative? No needs to speculate. Red Beard has mentioned his "high quality super duper multimeter". USE IT! Use a heat gun and measure the output voltage of the element. Then you KNOW!:) (Also good advice for dogs and color blind people, hehe)
🙌
Excellent tutorial! In the process of wrapping mine up. I have the first heat cycle going now. Just have to add a back panel and paint. You made it super easy to build. I appreciate it!
Heck yeah, cheers sir! Glad it helped.
35:36 hey man I built this kiln and it works flawlessly except I added a second thermo coupler and I have a 300 degree difference between the one on the lid and the additional. What would you recommend doing about it. The second one is not a cheap thermo coupler.
That's interesting that you're getting different readings. I'd suggest making sure they're calibrated with a bucket of ice water or something along those lines
Great video! Coming from a pottery background, if you need to help keep the elements in their grooves, you can take old/extra element wire and bend it into a J shape. Then just push them into the soft brick where needed.
Absolutely superb video! I used it as a guide when I made my own control box and I just test ran it. Everything worked perfectly!
Thank you very much for having made this video.
Glad it helped!
I'm a jewelry artist and it one point I was thinking of making my knives from scratch and than engraving them. After watching this video I think I will just buy blank knife blades from folks who have put in so much time and equipment into their work. There is only so much time and space we have to do the things we love. Your video has only made me more aware of the craftsmanship and skill that goes into knife making. Thank you.
Thanks Shaun! And good luck with your engraving!
I’m just getting started after having build my first forge a few years ago and selling it. Now building a new forge, next will probably be a belt grinder and for sure this will be one over build that I’ll take inspiration from. Great job.
Nice! Good luck!
Hope yall liked this one! As a reminder the links to the wiring diagram and components are in the description. Cheers! 🙌 -- If yall found this helpful and want to support the channel, the amazon links in the description are affiliate links and here is the RBO patron - www.patreon.com/RedBeardOps
I loved this one. I am getting ready to build mine!
@@capncurby671 Heck yeah Capn Curby!
Great video and great timing, I pretty much did the same thing as you looking at all those different resources and combining them into the design I want, I have all my parts sitting in a box in the shop, just gotta get around to starting it!
@@ughmas Heck yeah! Good luck with your build!
You did a wonderful job making your furnace, and a tremendous job putting together your video!
I really appreciate your step-by-step narration and instructions. It was not too slow, not too fast. I feel like you hit a near perfect video on many levels!
Please keep up the great work.
Oh man. I tripped over this exactly when needed. I'm gonna watch this a few times.
Nice! Good luck and stay safe with your build!
@@RedBeardOps A few times through and, as much as I love the video I think I'm gonna tap out on this one and save up to buy one. Mechanical and structural stuff is one thing. But screwing with electricity at that level is a bit beyond my ken.
In the immortal words of Dirty Harry: "A man's got to know his limitations." o7
@@madwilliamflint Man, I totally get it!
Awesome tutorial brother! Exactly what I was hoping for. I will put my Red Beard oven right next to my Red Beard etcher. Thanks for all you do!
Heck yeah, thanks man! Have a great weekend!
Really nice build on that oven. I just finished building mine about 2 weeks ago and although not as aesthetically finished as yours it does the job. I built mine with inside dimensions of width 6" x height 5.5" x depth 22.5". Wanted to be able to heat treat the camp choppers I make. Was able to do it for just under $500. Most expensive parts were the bricks and the angle iron since I didn't have any angle on hand. I used an Inkbird PID which seems to work quite well. I am having issues with the crappy hinge I used for the door so will have to go with something like you used. Looks a lot more sturdy. Again great build.
Awesome man! These things are fun to build for sure. Thanks for your comment!
36:46. I saw this assembly and literally said out loud "Holy shit! He made that?!?!?" Looks great!
Lol, cheers sir! Glad you enjoyed the build
Great video and build! I'm half way through building mine. One question, the terminal block and PID don't fit the 12 gauge u ends am I missing something?
The terminal blocks fit my 10 AWG wire (raw wire)
The U-ends I used on my 12 AWG wire did fit the PID... you many need to find/use some smaller ones if the ones you're using aren't working. Or grind down the ends until they fit.
Word, thanks so much for the great video. Keep it up!
I figured it out the link in the description takes you straight to 15 Amp terminal blocks (which I bought) that are smaller than the 20-25 Amp blocks you used. Got them order and on the way!
@@jacksonrobinson4424 That's interesting... what country are you in? Mine goes to 30A blocks - Ceramic Terminal Blocks - amzn.to/3sXa8eu
I'm in TN, I'm talking the terminal blocks inside the case.
Really great built video! Thank you for putting this up. I'm going to build an oven for aluminum casting and this will be a great help. Love the idea of using a benchtop drill press as an overhead router for the bricks - that's genius actually. If you used a regular router or router table all that silicon dioxide dust would probably completely destroy the router. But with the drill press, the motor and bearings are mostly out of the way. Such a good idea!
Came out of necessity! lol; Cheers Tom
Awesome tutorial, I´ve already made my own oven, but for me the main problem was the fire bricks. I can only find here in Brazil refratary bricks that were solids as a rock and to cut them were very difficult. I used only one SSR and after 10 min it melts, so I used a air cooler.
Your oven it´s great, on of the best diy on YT!!!
Heck yeah man! Thanks for your comment! Glad you enjoyed this one.
A tip for cutting the flashing or any sheet metal. Lay it down flat and use a straight edge and sharp utility knife and make a couple passes scoring it and then bend it and it will break perfectly. It basically looks like a factory edge. You don't have to cut nearly as deep into it as might think. I've done it with steel and aluminum. You can use a brake to bend and snap if you have one available. I do aluminum flashing on exterior trim which is how I learned this trick.
It's amazing how you can make something like this without a bunch of super expensive tools. I thought that drill press was some really high end model until I looked it up and saw that it's very reasonably priced. I have a similar sized one from Harbor Freight but that one looks nicer to me. This looks like a lot of work, but totally worth it with the price of pre made ones.
Thanks for the tip! Cheers
this is awesome, my only problem. couldn't you have released this a month ago before I started building my propane oven lol. This will be my next oven build for sure, thanks for such a comprehensive tutorial.
Lol, sorry sir! Good luck on your build!
Damn nice of you to provide instructions and component list FOC. Some folks want to charge for that. Always a pleasure to watch you work.
Thanks William! Glad you enjoyed this one. I felt like there was a gap on the oven tutorials out there and I looked to fill that gap! Cheers
@@RedBeardOps Can you provide the electrical schematic for free too, or is it just for your Patreons?
@@bobvines00 The link to the wiring diagram in the description is free. Here it is - www.patreon.com/posts/50559429
@@RedBeardOps Thanks! I didn't realize that the stuff on Patreon could be made free like this. Thank you very much!
Have you noticed any degradation of the ceramic terminal blocks on the back of your kiln? I've notice they seem to get a lot hotter than I would like when I heat treat steels like 10v with high austenizing temperatures, with a decently long hold time.
Also for the placement of the limit switch I had good luck placing it so that the button is pushed in more than necessary, that way it doesn't turn off after thermal expansion.
Good point on the switch. I haven't investigated the blocks
@@RedBeardOps I forgot to add to that, the main reason I asked is they had gotten a bit too hot and there has been some degradation to mine. Although, after really stuffing the back full of kaowool, it does seem to help. I'm not sure how I can stop them from getting hotter than I would like.
@@RedBeardOps so I've got at update on the oven. I've gone ahead and made some modifications to mine. You may have seen them on blade forums.
I moved the terminal blocks to a point outside the aluminum flashing, as well as thethermal couple (I moved the thermal couple earlier on, because it was melting the insulation for the wire). I had to make new coils with longer twisted leads. But now that the terminal blocks arent attached to the body of the oven they arent getting heated all. Which is keeping the connection from getting degraded do too oxidation.
Something I also did, but somewhat unrelated. Is I coated the inside of the chamber with 100 ht ceramic coating, for kilns and forges. It's supposed to protect the firebrick, and also it's supposed to reflect heat leading to a quicker heat up time (since I'm only using 110v at 15 amps that matters more, though even then it's not too bad). So I put a layer over the entire inside of the oven, also taking the coils out and putting it in the groves where those sit.
I havent fully fired it up since I've added this coating. So I'll see what effect if any its had.
That's all the changes I've made that I can think of since i initially completed this. I think the only other thing I really want to do, is buy an even longer thermal couple to get closer to the area my blade will be sitting, and also do so research and see if accuracy is possibly effected by using cheaper thermocouples like the one I have now.
@@_BLANK_BLANK Nice work! Thanks for the notes
Awesome! The parts list with Amazon references is particularly helpful for all the little bushings connectors, etc. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Another detailed and well thought out video James. You’re awesome. I appreciate you putting the cost list in there at the end. 👊🏻🇺🇸
Glad it was helpful!
Finally a decent video, simple and proffesional, even an amateur like me can feel confident to give it a go,, thanks for tutorial,
Glad it was helpful! Cheers lu!
I've been doing automotive and industrial wiring for nearly 20 years now. When in doubt on wire size, always go bigger. It leaves room later to expand the part/machine and it guarantees smooth operation.
Thanks for the tip sir!
Best overview of the DIY oven build I’ve seen yet ! And bonus, it’s a great design too !! 👍🏻👍🏻
Glad you like it!
6:35 It's important to note that at 1200C the Kanthal A-1 wire has an increased resistance of around 4%, important to factor in the resistance at operating temp rather than just at room temp
Thanks for the info
I completed most of the wiring today, just have to make and connect the elements, and detail the power supply. Fun build, man! Thanks for making it easy!
Nice work! Good luck!
Thank you for making this video that lets hobby makers do very special thermal cycles.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent build! I recently built a slightly smaller version for burning out investments using all of the info you provided in this video. I do have a question for either you or anyone else who can assist. I wired up a 240v 20amp plug as you recommended. plugged it in, the first red switch light up but once I flicked it on everything shut off. I didn't just trip the breaker, I somehow tripped the whole panel. The breaker it was wired up to was rated for 60 amps. Did I wire it up to a much to large breaker? I will have to go through the electric box and recheck my connections but I was sure it was all wired up correctly. Would this run on a standard 120v 12amp outlet if I cant get the 240v plug to work? Thank you very much!
Hey man, I'm not an electrician by any means. Please be super carful here; I really don't know what's going on with your machine. My best advice is to go over the wiring diagram again to make sure you have it all right; including the ports on the PID. You may want to consult an actual electrician too.... do this stuff at your own risk man, it's super dangerous.
Excellent video and commentary. It has me motivated to construct one myself. I noticed that you appear to be utilizing some sort of breathing apparatus while shaping the ceramic blocks. Please share what it is.
Thanks Richard! Glad you liked it! This respirator goes in and out of stock with COVID - Resp-O-Rator - amzn.to/2M6PMN7
Thank you for the quick response to my inquiry. I'll be looking for one for my shop. Thanks again for the exceptional video.
Freaking sweet build... Can tell a ton of research went into it, thanks for documenting it all for us!
Glad you enjoyed it!
You could widen the element track for better exposure and lower coil temp, but leave a 0.5" section every couple of inches intact to continue capturing the coil.
Agreed!
From a industrial furnace engineer - well made.
Thank you Nolan!
Nice detailed description.
Just a safety warning regarding the door switch. You mentioned in the beginning that you did this to prevent possible electrocution. But you may never assume that the SSR provides full electrical isolation and you should always use a relay with mechanical contacts to switch both sides of the coil off.
For anyone building this: if you buy a PID controller that is different from the one used, make sure it is a controller with an electrical output for SSR use. I originally bought a PID controller with a relay contact and this only allows for slow switching. The SSR plug-in unit I had to buy for that PID controller enables faster switching resulting in a more stable temperature.
Thanks for the tips sir
BRAVO!!! Eseguiro' il TUO progetto. Ti stimo molto! Saluti da Venezia (IT)
Vi ringrazio molto! Buona settimana!
Incredibly thorough and well-done. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice build.
Thank you for going through the mistakes you made and how you corrected them as well. Thats a big help to all of us attempting tbe same project.
Glad it was helpful!
Quickly becoming my favorite build channel, nice work !
Awesome, thank you!
Nice video and well done. By far from the videos I have watched this seems to be the most details. Thank you for that, wish you the best in your future endeavors.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video thanks! I have a question, if i reduce the inner volume how it will
effect the preference?
I would think a reduced inner diameter with he same amount of heating coil and design would produce a more efficient oven. I could be wrong though.
Awesome build mate! Very inspirational for an aspiring knife maker. Super informative and really well paced video. Thank you very much. Greatly appreciated.
Glad you liked it!
I didn't understand some things but I liked watching. Nice job bro
Glad you enjoyed it Ryan!
Can it work with single ssr ?
I'm not an electrician, but I think it could work with a single SSR. From what I understand the dual SSR set up reduced load and temps... and extends life.
Amazing, but safety wise - did you respirator for handling/cutting the bricks? I love the detail and that you showed the total out of pocket cost!
Fore sure, that dust is nasty
Great video!! Is it still working? With the same resistance coil? Thanks!
Yep, still going strong with the same coil; thanks
Something to consider is the surface loading of the wire. based on your calculations you get 30 watts/sq-in. if you're getting your oven up to or above 2000F then you're going to have shorter coil life. Ideally for operation around 2000F it should be closer to 20 watts/sq-in. the trade off would be how fast the coils reach the desired temperature, however in a smaller chamber the difference might be negligible.
Good thoughts!
Amazingly descriptive! I learned a ton and hope to be making my own shortly copying a lot of your design! Thanks, Linus
Glad it was helpful!
Superb build& impressive video plus details guide for guys like me, beginners with small budgets and big technical resources congratulation again ! Cheers from Argentina
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you! Cheers from Texas!
166 / 5000
Resultados de traducción
Excellent oven !!! ... I am building a similar one and I am already working on the electrical part. Watching your video, I wondered why you placed 2 SSRs? Thank you!
Nice! From what I gather, having two SSRs reduces the load on them.
One way to save heating element is to stretch the coils to separate, then hop coils until the proper resistance value is achieved based on multimeter ohms, THEN cut the wire. Great build.
Thanks for the tip
I have followed your lead on building my oven and everything has worked very well. You have the best video to guide a builder. I’m just not comfortable with the results of my resistance calculations. If you could answer a question about the calculations I would be very grateful. Did you decide on a wattage and just go with the resulting ohms? My results left me with ~9 ohms which is very little 16ga. Kanthal wire for a 0.6 cu.ft oven. Any thoughts?
Glad you're getting value out of it! Please be carful with electricity... stuff is dangerous. I started off with AMPS. I wanted to run the 220 oven on a 20 amp breaker. 20 amps derated by 2/3 gives me 13.33 amps. I then used that to solve for ohms. Once I have the ohms I can calculate the watts of the oven. - There is a calculator here as well - dcknives.blogspot.com/p/electric-forge.html
came out great, those brick grooves should save a lot of hassle. you definitely don't need to fuse the PID though, as fuses don't actually protect the appliance from failure, they protect against already failed appliance from causing a fire + melting the wire insulation. plus, PID controllers don't operate anywhere close to 1amp, its only a few milliamps (around 2ma to be exact) and there's such a low chance the PID will short circuit (compared to a heating coil circuit), that there's still no point installing in a very tiny milliamp range fuse. Bizarrely, I have seen quite a few builds were people have unnecessarily fused the PID controller, so it seems to be a trend that's caught on. Otherwise, it's still a great build :D
Thanks for the info Chris.
@@RedBeardOps no worries. looking forward to incorporating some of your ideas into my next build :)
Great job! I was all ready to run out to the shop and bust one of these out then you started wiring up the box......
Lol, it's a little involved for sure! Cheers man
Gran trabajo felicidades... Quiero construir el mio... A cuanto de temperatura máxima llega tu horno ?? Saludos desde Bolivia
¡Saludos desde Texas! El mío ha llegado a alrededor de 1900 F hasta ahora.
There is one case where the operator can get bit - where one of the solid-state relays shorts out and stays on. The heater will still operate normally, and the heater will still be disabled when the door is opened, leading one to think that everything is fine. BUT: the relay that is stuck on is still connecting voltage through the entire length of the heater, presenting a potential shock hazard - even if it is thermally cold. The right way (more expensive, of course) is to have the door switch operate a contactor (a big relay) that removes power from both ends of the heater. The cheap less safe way is to add an indicator light to either end of the heater and neutral (not ground). If it's on when the door is opened, it's a red flag that the wires still have voltage on them.
Cool information Kurt!
@@RedBeardOps Yeah it's a tricky "corner case." It's only a problem here in the US where we have 240V with a center neutral, so effectively, both ends are hot. This means that both ends of the heater have to be switched, as you've done. In the UK, they get straight 240V with no center neutral, so only need one switch on the hot side.
Your build, and especially your voice-over, is really excellent; the best I've seen for any oven build on YT. I'll be building one as well, based in part on your design. I'm taking to heart what you said about the door sealing and may do a counterweight door where gravity holds it shut. Thanks again for the video!
This is an exceptionally nice build for a DIY effort, and I could see this being ever so slightly modified for a fully professional outfit. Man, nice job!
I also went with an Auber PID though the next stage up that has a USB function so you can program on the PC and save your ramps and cools. Doing it directly through the PID isn't impossible, but having a folder of easily accessible and swappable profiles that you can add more functionality is a nice feature to have for down the road. My oven is a bit of an oddball as it's design is for a very large crucible and a reduced oxygen environment that can heat treat specific materials, graphitize, smelt, etc.
USB port would be awesome! That's a great idea for an upgraded model.
@ Red Beard Ops I don't know the heat specs of your control box, but without an exhaust fan and ventilation holes, you risk damage to your components from the heat of the SSR's...the heat sinks need a method to get rid of the heat from the SSR's, and plastic won't do that without exhaust holes and a fan...your SSR's might show 120 deg, but all that heat has no place to go...just my thoughts on it...nice build
Thanks James, I'll keep an eye on them.
Compared to most furnace build videos, your design and construction is relatively better.
Thank you!
The video was nicely done and easy to follow.
Thank you greatly!
Thanks for the vid! Now that it has been a few years, have you had to replace any parts? How many parts would you guess you have done in it?
Haven't had to replace anything. Still going strong! If I had to do it again I would have used a metal box on the side; plastic just feels cheap-ish for something that gets hot.
This is a really awesome tutorial/video appreciate all of the hard work that went into this. THe knife making making community has some really great content and yor stuff is on the top of that. THANKS!
Glad you liked it Matt! Cheers
Hey man, i just finishe building an oven using your video and it turned out great, thing is, i cant figure out how to turn it on or set it. Ive never used a pid before. Can you help me out please?
Hey Fabbin, that PID controller can be pretty confusing. There are some youtube videos on the set up so I'd advise searching for the number. It would be hard to explain in text
Just finished 'coiling' my heating wire, and using your wood block technique (with the tip to maintain slight pressure) it went perfectly. Brilliant! You saved me from hours of winding by hand and likely unsatisfying, mediocre result.
Nice work! Good luck with your build Joel!
NOTE: There are counterfeit Chinese SSRs on the market. I bought one through the snake company and then found an article that described the difference between the genuine and the counterfeit. They are labeled as handling a higher amperage than they actually can carry, and the genuine manufacturer has discontinued that particular line of SSRs due to this counterfeiting. My advice is to buy SSRs from a reputable electronics supplier, and avoid any low-priced 'deals' that you see online.
Good tip sir!
This was great.
Does it really need the massive steel frame?
It should be below 100°C, so ... Aluminum?
I used what I had lying around... I'm sure you could use other materials. Could get a little hot around the door
Nice video. Why the high temp wire with a plastic control box. Or at least when you were cutting it it seem3d like plastic
I figured it couldn't hurt!
Excellent idea putting the switch on the door. I electrocuted myself in a high school jewelry class doing just that. Far and away the biggest shock I've ever had.
OUCH!
Have a question: is your chamber dimension driven by your coil length or to accommodate larger blade builds?
For me the length was to accommodate larger blade builds.
Nice video. Wondering if you could have used a single SSR. I have only one in an electric brewery panel running 5500 W element at 240 VAC.
Hey John, I'm not sure to be honest.
I am seeing a pattern here in the comments:) I am serious when I say all the way from your prep/ and planning work to the explanation/ narration to video. So well done. Kudos.
Thanks hommie! Glad to have you on-board
you did 1 hell of ajob on that oven it came out fantastic glad you finally did this video i wish it was here a few months back but im happy with my oven i built
Thankyou sir! It was a fun project for sure. Congrats on your oven!
Just ordered the parts. I have two questions: 1) if I extend the bed by one brick (4.5 inches), do I have to use more coil or can I stretch the coil a bit more? 2) Do I need a 30 amp breaker to get to 18.4 ohms resistance, assuming I need more wire?
Tom, I built this a while ago... so I'm trying to remember things to look out for. I think if you extended by 4.5 inches you should be ok on the stretch. Just be very carful to stretch the coil evenly.
I break down the math in the video. In my case I decided to target a target amps of 13... which works out to requiring an 18.4 OHMS wire. This runs just fine on a 20 amp 240v breaker. (5:57)
@@RedBeardOps thank you sir. I will let you know how it turns out.
Great video mate, you have clearly put a lot of effort into your project and into conveying useful information to viewers. Thanks very much for that!
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
Excellent Job on both the build and the completeness of the DIY video!!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you for sharing.Would it work with 240v
And what are external dimensions? Thank you
I don't recall the exact dimensions. You'll have to do that math with the bricks you get and insulation. I don't see why it wouldn't work with 240v as long as the components you order are rated for that.
@@RedBeardOps great all my list is done hope I change everything what I should change 😁 thank you
@@stefanzubal6049 Good luck with your build! Be safe now... stuff is dangerous! lol
1950 for your first try is amazing! . Some of those thermocouples dont come well calibrated either. Did you try cone fire testing it?
Man, I have no idea what that means! lol
I am struggling to get the oven up to 1925. Any tips for better insulation? I recaulked all my interior joints with the same furnace cement used in the video, and that helped. FYI for anyone that had issues with the mortar, I found this stuff in the caulk tube worked much better, as far as holding the bricks together.
I added a soft firebrick inside the oven in order to reduce the amount of space I needed to heat since my knives are all small. I also considered adding a layer of ko wool with satanite to the inside top of the furnace. I'm also considering adding satanite to the exterior ko wool.
Any other suggestions to improve the insulation?
Man sorry to hear you're having issues. Mine gets up to 1925, but it does take a bit.
May be worth verify your resistance on the coils and calculated watts
@@RedBeardOps that is definitely something I should do, thanks for the advice. I've been trying to get it up to temperature all day. I finally gave up turned everything off and cracked the door open. I just looked and apparently my thermometer is melting... The steel inside the ceramic coating is bending downward. Ever had anything like that happen before?
@@yzpaul42 dang... maybe it was up and over 1900 but the temp wasn't reading right?
@@RedBeardOpsthat's definitely what I'm thinking. I have a replacement thermometer on the way and I'm crossing my fingers.
A very convenient way to cut aluminum flashing is to score it with a matt knife and flex it a couple times to snap it, makes a very straight clean line.
Nice tip!
Great video! Very detailed, straight forward and well explained! Thank you for taking the time to make the video and share with us! Cheers!
Heck yeah man! Glad you liked it! Cheers
Amazing video! I plan on making a control box this summer with an Arduino, and additional parts. A quick tip for those making your coils at home. For a more accurate reading on callipers, you should use the tips of your calliper’s lower jaws. That point is the most accurate due to the slight taper in the jaws.
Good luck on your build!
@@RedBeardOps thank you!
Best oven build around. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you like it!
Thank you for compiling all the information into this video! I built a similar device a few years back, in seeing yours I now have solutions to the things I didn't like about my build. Thank you again! Now I have explore your other videos and subscribe...
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
I don't know how many times I watched this video....but it was a lot :) Yes I built it, works great and I love it. I was shooting for 3200 watts based on 18 ohms and 240V. But yeah, my ohms ended up at 18.5 and my power supply measures out at 247V, so that calculates out to 3297 watts. Not complaining about that at all. One thing about the wiring diagram, and like you I am not an electrician, but we sure play hard at it lol. So I'm reading the wiring diagram as providing power to the element from the + sides of both SSR's. Am I reading that right? In any event I did not do that, I followed your wiring in the video and in the video the element is wired from the + side of one SSR and the - side of the other. Please let me know about the diagram....if I'm reading it right.
I'll be honest this is so long ago at this point I forgot a lot of the build. I'm not sure if it matters on the power side as long as you make the circuit appropriately... but don't quote me. Glad it worked out for you!
Nice! You really had to throw the info at us quickly to cover everything, but it was perfect. Great detail and very clearly filmed, edited and narrated. Well done and thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
As always, I’m impressed with tour skills man. Super easy to follow along. And you go the extra mile with sourcing components for us.
Thank you
I appreciate that! I enjoy making videos like these builds.... They're something I wish I had.
Thing is, I do have a journeyman electrician sertification. I used to be a general contractor for the purpose of installing home theaters. Sometimes you have to add a room to the house to get the job done.
Excelente video!! no te guardas nada, lo das todo, Gracias!
I’ve watched this video a few times now and i think I’m gonna make it but do you think following these plans/designs i could make it vertically and or run on 120v
I'm sure it would work vertically, not sure on the 120
Thanks for all the knowledge you share. You are a great teacher. I have everything in my Amazon cart just have to hit that button which I will eventually get around to. I know this is alot better option vs paying $2200. Do you recommend starting off with this for newbies or would you recommend starting with a forge? I just plan on heat treating and am not planning on forging, at least anytime soon.
For heat treating, yes, I'd say this is better for sure. The forge is more versatile if you want to do any type of knife forging or blacksmithing... But heck, when I was making mostly stock removal knives, I probably would have been better served with just an oven.
I dount that a professional person could do it better. Congratulations, a job perfectly done. You didn`t neef years of practice for that, It was rather the way you think. Excellent!
Wow, thank you very much sir! Have a great weekend!
Wow so much detail! Thanks so much. I followed you and built my own. Seem to be having the same problems as you. Won’t go above 1100. Did you figure out why you were having problems?
Hey Wayne, I was never having issues. My oven goes to 1900F
@@RedBeardOps oh sorry I thought u were having a hard time. I can’t figure out why I can’t go over 1100. I have 17.8 on my coil. Good seal all the way around. Any advice would be great! Thanks again so much.
@@waynesmith9421 Hey Wayne, two things. Make sure your thermo couple is wired right. Maybe test it with ice water to see if it holds zero. It's comment these wires can be flipped. Also, dig into the controller set points. I'm not sure what controller you're using, but the Auber is pretty confusing.
Wow, very cool. That oven makes me want to get into the knife making business just so I have a reason to make one.
Heck yeah man! It was a fun build for sure!