That is one of the best detailed and explained videos on oven building around. You did a GREAT job of designing the oven, AND documenting the build. Thanks for taking the time for all that video editing work.
LOL! I'm charged up for you man... Good luck with your build; I'll be shocked... if you aren't successful. Thanks for... relaying... me your feedback on this video!
@@RedBeardOps Sorry to be cheesy... but I'm just over here... wired... on some coffee. I think I have the... capacity... to tackle this project, but we will see! :)
Thank you for sharing this! This walkthrough was super helpful and the equipment list is such a great resource. I created a parallel build and found that making the channels in the fire brick with tight tolerance for my coil diameter caused my bricks to crack when the Kanthal expanded. Maybe a lesson learned that could help other viewers.
Great job. I'm an electrician and very impressed with your explanation. You can add a cooling fan to box to keep components cooler. I have been wanting to make one and I love your design.
Great video! Coming from a pottery background, if you need to help keep the elements in their grooves, you can take old/extra element wire and bend it into a J shape. Then just push them into the soft brick where needed.
Nice build - really excellent result, and very good and detailed description. Just a note for any one building one. There is no point in using two SSRs - one for each end of the coil, when you are on a single phase. The current you run through one is the same current you run through the other. You just get double the voltage drop over the SSRs (which is probably insignificant in this case), but main point is no benefit and twice the cost and hassle of wiring. And as noted by others, no reason to fuse the PID with a big fuse separately. The manufactorers pdf manual for the controller has a wiring suggestion for a heater build that should be followed - it uses the correct wiring with regards to fusing and using one SSR.
Yeah, a wonderful project:) And you are absolutely correct with your analysis: The wiring is SERIAL, one net-loop, so no need for two silicon state relays. Just some engineering background (and advice, nobody asked for **g** ): Red Beard says something like "... a fuse to protect the PID [regulator] ...". That fuse should then be dimensioned to the max input current of the device, denoted by the datasheet. For the protection of normal devices 1.1 to 1.2 x nominal current / slow blowing fuse. Or to protect semiconductor devices (like SSRs) with 1.2 to 1.5 nominal current but with fast blowing or semiconductor rated fuse(Ballpark numbers, if present use the values specified by the manufacturer = RTFM:) ). But for such a small and relatively simple (in contrast to a complex) device? After all, also those fuses are ADDITIONAL to the ones he already wired in, which (the background part: ) are fuses to protect the WIRING! Like in your house-installation. They serve the purpose that in the event of a short circuit (heating element or regulator or the wiring itself or some dumb human juggling a screwdriver ...), the entire wiring does not turn into a fire hazard/heating element itself. The fuses must therefore be designed according to the conductor cross-section and thus the rated current. If the/a secondary fuse is dimensioned as a device protection fuse, then the correct value for the special device must also be selected. Anything in between, or "by feel" doesn't make any sense at all:) Just my (and by the basics of electrical design) 2 Amps ... I meant cents. About Cable Glands: I found it wonderful, that he works with cable glands. That is professional. But ... cable glands are for ONE cable, each[1]. The great thing about them is the screwable and totally sealing strain relief. If you use two cables or even three .... then you can omit those things. And please don't say anyone DUCT TAPE. We have enough plonkers here, who shoot themselves in the foot, regularly on TH-cam:) [1] That solves also the mystery, why they come in different sizes ... :P About Thermoelements: Whats positive and what is negative? No needs to speculate. Red Beard has mentioned his "high quality super duper multimeter". USE IT! Use a heat gun and measure the output voltage of the element. Then you KNOW!:) (Also good advice for dogs and color blind people, hehe)
Excellent tutorial! In the process of wrapping mine up. I have the first heat cycle going now. Just have to add a back panel and paint. You made it super easy to build. I appreciate it!
Your build videos are second to none. Truly. Thank you. If you come to my shop you will find your press and your oven. To build these projects was inspiring. To document and freely share hit the high mark. Thanks again!
Absolutely superb video! I used it as a guide when I made my own control box and I just test ran it. Everything worked perfectly! Thank you very much for having made this video.
Really nice build on that oven. I just finished building mine about 2 weeks ago and although not as aesthetically finished as yours it does the job. I built mine with inside dimensions of width 6" x height 5.5" x depth 22.5". Wanted to be able to heat treat the camp choppers I make. Was able to do it for just under $500. Most expensive parts were the bricks and the angle iron since I didn't have any angle on hand. I used an Inkbird PID which seems to work quite well. I am having issues with the crappy hinge I used for the door so will have to go with something like you used. Looks a lot more sturdy. Again great build.
I’m just getting started after having build my first forge a few years ago and selling it. Now building a new forge, next will probably be a belt grinder and for sure this will be one over build that I’ll take inspiration from. Great job.
Awesome tutorial, I´ve already made my own oven, but for me the main problem was the fire bricks. I can only find here in Brazil refratary bricks that were solids as a rock and to cut them were very difficult. I used only one SSR and after 10 min it melts, so I used a air cooler. Your oven it´s great, on of the best diy on YT!!!
I'm a jewelry artist and it one point I was thinking of making my knives from scratch and than engraving them. After watching this video I think I will just buy blank knife blades from folks who have put in so much time and equipment into their work. There is only so much time and space we have to do the things we love. Your video has only made me more aware of the craftsmanship and skill that goes into knife making. Thank you.
Really great built video! Thank you for putting this up. I'm going to build an oven for aluminum casting and this will be a great help. Love the idea of using a benchtop drill press as an overhead router for the bricks - that's genius actually. If you used a regular router or router table all that silicon dioxide dust would probably completely destroy the router. But with the drill press, the motor and bearings are mostly out of the way. Such a good idea!
I've been doing automotive and industrial wiring for nearly 20 years now. When in doubt on wire size, always go bigger. It leaves room later to expand the part/machine and it guarantees smooth operation.
A tip for cutting the flashing or any sheet metal. Lay it down flat and use a straight edge and sharp utility knife and make a couple passes scoring it and then bend it and it will break perfectly. It basically looks like a factory edge. You don't have to cut nearly as deep into it as might think. I've done it with steel and aluminum. You can use a brake to bend and snap if you have one available. I do aluminum flashing on exterior trim which is how I learned this trick. It's amazing how you can make something like this without a bunch of super expensive tools. I thought that drill press was some really high end model until I looked it up and saw that it's very reasonably priced. I have a similar sized one from Harbor Freight but that one looks nicer to me. This looks like a lot of work, but totally worth it with the price of pre made ones.
When I made my muffle furnace, 35 years ago, I just used a Joiners hand saw to cut the bricks and the left-over pieces were useful for filling-in intricate areas of the brick-work. I did not use any cement, just used staggered gap brick laying and double brick walls. To complement the structure, I used refractory insulating blanket around the bricks and then covered the structure with 0.100" thick hot rolled steel plate with steel angle for the frame.
I completed most of the wiring today, just have to make and connect the elements, and detail the power supply. Fun build, man! Thanks for making it easy!
this is awesome, my only problem. couldn't you have released this a month ago before I started building my propane oven lol. This will be my next oven build for sure, thanks for such a comprehensive tutorial.
Nice build. Thank you for going through the mistakes you made and how you corrected them as well. Thats a big help to all of us attempting tbe same project.
@@RedBeardOps A few times through and, as much as I love the video I think I'm gonna tap out on this one and save up to buy one. Mechanical and structural stuff is one thing. But screwing with electricity at that level is a bit beyond my ken. In the immortal words of Dirty Harry: "A man's got to know his limitations." o7
Awesome build mate! Very inspirational for an aspiring knife maker. Super informative and really well paced video. Thank you very much. Greatly appreciated.
Nice detailed description. Just a safety warning regarding the door switch. You mentioned in the beginning that you did this to prevent possible electrocution. But you may never assume that the SSR provides full electrical isolation and you should always use a relay with mechanical contacts to switch both sides of the coil off. For anyone building this: if you buy a PID controller that is different from the one used, make sure it is a controller with an electrical output for SSR use. I originally bought a PID controller with a relay contact and this only allows for slow switching. The SSR plug-in unit I had to buy for that PID controller enables faster switching resulting in a more stable temperature.
There is one case where the operator can get bit - where one of the solid-state relays shorts out and stays on. The heater will still operate normally, and the heater will still be disabled when the door is opened, leading one to think that everything is fine. BUT: the relay that is stuck on is still connecting voltage through the entire length of the heater, presenting a potential shock hazard - even if it is thermally cold. The right way (more expensive, of course) is to have the door switch operate a contactor (a big relay) that removes power from both ends of the heater. The cheap less safe way is to add an indicator light to either end of the heater and neutral (not ground). If it's on when the door is opened, it's a red flag that the wires still have voltage on them.
@@RedBeardOps Yeah it's a tricky "corner case." It's only a problem here in the US where we have 240V with a center neutral, so effectively, both ends are hot. This means that both ends of the heater have to be switched, as you've done. In the UK, they get straight 240V with no center neutral, so only need one switch on the hot side. Your build, and especially your voice-over, is really excellent; the best I've seen for any oven build on YT. I'll be building one as well, based in part on your design. I'm taking to heart what you said about the door sealing and may do a counterweight door where gravity holds it shut. Thanks again for the video!
Really awesome vid mate 👍🏼👍🏼 the amount you learned along the way shows just how complex it can get! I have talked to a local furnace company in my home town and they build hobby setups buy one thing the owner mentioned is that he likes to get his walls 120mm thick for safety and performance, he showed me his demo model getting up to 1100c in 20mins 🙀 Keep up the good work 🙌🏼
One way to save heating element is to stretch the coils to separate, then hop coils until the proper resistance value is achieved based on multimeter ohms, THEN cut the wire. Great build.
Just finished 'coiling' my heating wire, and using your wood block technique (with the tip to maintain slight pressure) it went perfectly. Brilliant! You saved me from hours of winding by hand and likely unsatisfying, mediocre result.
Amazing video! I plan on making a control box this summer with an Arduino, and additional parts. A quick tip for those making your coils at home. For a more accurate reading on callipers, you should use the tips of your calliper’s lower jaws. That point is the most accurate due to the slight taper in the jaws.
you did 1 hell of ajob on that oven it came out fantastic glad you finally did this video i wish it was here a few months back but im happy with my oven i built
Superb build& impressive video plus details guide for guys like me, beginners with small budgets and big technical resources congratulation again ! Cheers from Argentina
Thank you for compiling all the information into this video! I built a similar device a few years back, in seeing yours I now have solutions to the things I didn't like about my build. Thank you again! Now I have explore your other videos and subscribe...
This is an exceptionally nice build for a DIY effort, and I could see this being ever so slightly modified for a fully professional outfit. Man, nice job! I also went with an Auber PID though the next stage up that has a USB function so you can program on the PC and save your ramps and cools. Doing it directly through the PID isn't impossible, but having a folder of easily accessible and swappable profiles that you can add more functionality is a nice feature to have for down the road. My oven is a bit of an oddball as it's design is for a very large crucible and a reduced oxygen environment that can heat treat specific materials, graphitize, smelt, etc.
Brilliant! great job with this project. You really did your homework. thanks for all the detail, super complete. When i get ready to move past 1080/84 steel i am going to build one.
This is a really awesome tutorial/video appreciate all of the hard work that went into this. THe knife making making community has some really great content and yor stuff is on the top of that. THANKS!
Nice video and well done. By far from the videos I have watched this seems to be the most details. Thank you for that, wish you the best in your future endeavors.
Nice! You really had to throw the info at us quickly to cover everything, but it was perfect. Great detail and very clearly filmed, edited and narrated. Well done and thank you.
Thing is, I do have a journeyman electrician sertification. I used to be a general contractor for the purpose of installing home theaters. Sometimes you have to add a room to the house to get the job done.
NOTE: There are counterfeit Chinese SSRs on the market. I bought one through the snake company and then found an article that described the difference between the genuine and the counterfeit. They are labeled as handling a higher amperage than they actually can carry, and the genuine manufacturer has discontinued that particular line of SSRs due to this counterfeiting. My advice is to buy SSRs from a reputable electronics supplier, and avoid any low-priced 'deals' that you see online.
came out great, those brick grooves should save a lot of hassle. you definitely don't need to fuse the PID though, as fuses don't actually protect the appliance from failure, they protect against already failed appliance from causing a fire + melting the wire insulation. plus, PID controllers don't operate anywhere close to 1amp, its only a few milliamps (around 2ma to be exact) and there's such a low chance the PID will short circuit (compared to a heating coil circuit), that there's still no point installing in a very tiny milliamp range fuse. Bizarrely, I have seen quite a few builds were people have unnecessarily fused the PID controller, so it seems to be a trend that's caught on. Otherwise, it's still a great build :D
A very convenient way to cut aluminum flashing is to score it with a matt knife and flex it a couple times to snap it, makes a very straight clean line.
You could widen the element track for better exposure and lower coil temp, but leave a 0.5" section every couple of inches intact to continue capturing the coil.
I dount that a professional person could do it better. Congratulations, a job perfectly done. You didn`t neef years of practice for that, It was rather the way you think. Excellent!
Excellent video and commentary. It has me motivated to construct one myself. I noticed that you appear to be utilizing some sort of breathing apparatus while shaping the ceramic blocks. Please share what it is.
Something to consider is the surface loading of the wire. based on your calculations you get 30 watts/sq-in. if you're getting your oven up to or above 2000F then you're going to have shorter coil life. Ideally for operation around 2000F it should be closer to 20 watts/sq-in. the trade off would be how fast the coils reach the desired temperature, however in a smaller chamber the difference might be negligible.
Awesome build but as I’ve learned from building my grinder, I soon realized why they cost so much money. That being said, I’m not electrically inclined at all! Given the amount of time it would take, and at the cost you stated I know I’d probably be better off just buying one. However, I love your videos, keep up the good work!
6:35 It's important to note that at 1200C the Kanthal A-1 wire has an increased resistance of around 4%, important to factor in the resistance at operating temp rather than just at room temp
Beautiful build this is on my todo list I just need a welder haha. I made a PID control box for my toaster oven and can keep it a few tenths of a degree consistently. Rebuilding a pottery kiln this winter and than this oven is next on my list or a greenhouse LOL. I will use much of your design and thanks so much for sharing and doing such a fine job documenting your build.
Dude! You crushed it man! Thank you so much! Parts, diagrams, everything! Thank you so much! Please do a follow up in a few months. Would love to hear how it holds up!
Thanks man! Glad you liked it. It's pretty much going to be used in every knife video I do on this channel (except for the next one since I had already made the knife without the oven). You should be able to get a good idea of how it's doing and I'll make sure to talk about it! Cheers sir!
Thanks a lot Red Beard Ops ! Great video, one of the best making reference !🥰 I am just really surprised (and badly surprised in fact) that peoples in your cited references told to put 2 SSR like that 🤔 It doesn't make any sense .... even worst.... it could in fact be super counter productive by avoiding the SSR to work properly : SSR are here to switch on and off the current when it pass on 0, limiting switching (bad) effects. By putting two in series like that, it is just the best way to avoid them to recognize when the current is null by interfering with each other 🙄If they are rated for 40A and you want to switch 20A, no need to use 2 in all case 🤪
Excellent idea putting the switch on the door. I electrocuted myself in a high school jewelry class doing just that. Far and away the biggest shock I've ever had.
I am seeing a pattern here in the comments:) I am serious when I say all the way from your prep/ and planning work to the explanation/ narration to video. So well done. Kudos.
I just ordered a bunch of items from your affiliate link. I hope that helps and you keep the videos coming! I'm really looking forward to your fallow up videos to see if you've made any changes. I'm also loving your leather videos. If you make one on motorcycle seats or similar. I'm sure I'll watch that over 20 times like I just did with this one.
Thank you for making this. I've subscribed. PS. you can make the kiln marginally more efficcient by cutting some internal vent holes to expose the nichrome heat elements slightly more. The current design actually "insulates" the elements inwards, which you don't want.
Holy moly man the way you cut in those heating element slots was genius
Thanks man! Glad you enjoyed that. Seems like a good solution for sure.
Can't say I've ever seen someone chuck up a router bit in a drill press... Until now!
That is one of the best detailed and explained videos on oven building around. You did a GREAT job of designing the oven, AND documenting the build. Thanks for taking the time for all that video editing work.
Wow, thank you sir! Glad you enjoyed it for sure. Have a great weekend!
Ditto
Man I'm... amped! I don't think I'll be able to... resist... the temptation to build one of these ovens!
LOL! I'm charged up for you man... Good luck with your build; I'll be shocked... if you aren't successful. Thanks for... relaying... me your feedback on this video!
@@RedBeardOps Sorry to be cheesy... but I'm just over here... wired... on some coffee. I think I have the... capacity... to tackle this project, but we will see! :)
Thank you for sharing this! This walkthrough was super helpful and the equipment list is such a great resource. I created a parallel build and found that making the channels in the fire brick with tight tolerance for my coil diameter caused my bricks to crack when the Kanthal expanded. Maybe a lesson learned that could help other viewers.
Great job. I'm an electrician and very impressed with your explanation. You can add a cooling fan to box to keep components cooler. I have been wanting to make one and I love your design.
Thank you greatly sir! I'm glad I hit enough points to make an electrician like this one! I most certainly am not one.
Great video! Coming from a pottery background, if you need to help keep the elements in their grooves, you can take old/extra element wire and bend it into a J shape. Then just push them into the soft brick where needed.
Nice build - really excellent result, and very good and detailed description. Just a note for any one building one. There is no point in using two SSRs - one for each end of the coil, when you are on a single phase. The current you run through one is the same current you run through the other. You just get double the voltage drop over the SSRs (which is probably insignificant in this case), but main point is no benefit and twice the cost and hassle of wiring. And as noted by others, no reason to fuse the PID with a big fuse separately. The manufactorers pdf manual for the controller has a wiring suggestion for a heater build that should be followed - it uses the correct wiring with regards to fusing and using one SSR.
Yeah, a wonderful project:) And you are absolutely correct with your analysis: The wiring is SERIAL, one net-loop, so no need for two silicon state relays.
Just some engineering background (and advice, nobody asked for **g** ): Red Beard says something like "... a fuse to protect the PID [regulator] ...". That fuse should then be dimensioned to the max input current of the device, denoted by the datasheet. For the protection of normal devices 1.1 to 1.2 x nominal current / slow blowing fuse. Or to protect semiconductor devices (like SSRs) with 1.2 to 1.5 nominal current but with fast blowing or semiconductor rated fuse(Ballpark numbers, if present use the values specified by the manufacturer = RTFM:) ). But for such a small and relatively simple (in contrast to a complex) device? After all, also those fuses are ADDITIONAL to the ones he already wired in, which (the background part: ) are fuses to protect the WIRING! Like in your house-installation. They serve the purpose that in the event of a short circuit (heating element or regulator or the wiring itself or some dumb human juggling a screwdriver ...), the entire wiring does not turn into a fire hazard/heating element itself. The fuses must therefore be designed according to the conductor cross-section and thus the rated current. If the/a secondary fuse is dimensioned as a device protection fuse, then the correct value for the special device must also be selected. Anything in between, or "by feel" doesn't make any sense at all:) Just my (and by the basics of electrical design) 2 Amps ... I meant cents.
About Cable Glands: I found it wonderful, that he works with cable glands. That is professional. But ... cable glands are for ONE cable, each[1]. The great thing about them is the screwable and totally sealing strain relief. If you use two cables or even three .... then you can omit those things. And please don't say anyone DUCT TAPE. We have enough plonkers here, who shoot themselves in the foot, regularly on TH-cam:)
[1] That solves also the mystery, why they come in different sizes ... :P
About Thermoelements: Whats positive and what is negative? No needs to speculate. Red Beard has mentioned his "high quality super duper multimeter". USE IT! Use a heat gun and measure the output voltage of the element. Then you KNOW!:) (Also good advice for dogs and color blind people, hehe)
🙌
Excellent tutorial! In the process of wrapping mine up. I have the first heat cycle going now. Just have to add a back panel and paint. You made it super easy to build. I appreciate it!
Heck yeah, cheers sir! Glad it helped.
Looking really good! I appreciate how much time you spent documenting and editing. Great reference.
Glad you enjoyed it! Man your blog was so damn helpful! Thanks man. Have a great weekend. 🙌
Your build videos are second to none. Truly. Thank you. If you come to my shop you will find your press and your oven. To build these projects was inspiring. To document and freely share hit the high mark. Thanks again!
Awesome! Glad they were helpful! Cheers
Great video!! I’ve probably watched it 20 times. I’m a new knife maker and I built this oven with a few changes but it has been a game changer. Thanks
Heck yeah man! Awesome to hear it helped
What details did you change in your build, & why?
@@schechter01
I’m running off a 30 amp breaker so I increased the power.
Absolutely superb video! I used it as a guide when I made my own control box and I just test ran it. Everything worked perfectly!
Thank you very much for having made this video.
Glad it helped!
Really nice build on that oven. I just finished building mine about 2 weeks ago and although not as aesthetically finished as yours it does the job. I built mine with inside dimensions of width 6" x height 5.5" x depth 22.5". Wanted to be able to heat treat the camp choppers I make. Was able to do it for just under $500. Most expensive parts were the bricks and the angle iron since I didn't have any angle on hand. I used an Inkbird PID which seems to work quite well. I am having issues with the crappy hinge I used for the door so will have to go with something like you used. Looks a lot more sturdy. Again great build.
Awesome man! These things are fun to build for sure. Thanks for your comment!
I’m just getting started after having build my first forge a few years ago and selling it. Now building a new forge, next will probably be a belt grinder and for sure this will be one over build that I’ll take inspiration from. Great job.
Nice! Good luck!
Awesome tutorial, I´ve already made my own oven, but for me the main problem was the fire bricks. I can only find here in Brazil refratary bricks that were solids as a rock and to cut them were very difficult. I used only one SSR and after 10 min it melts, so I used a air cooler.
Your oven it´s great, on of the best diy on YT!!!
Heck yeah man! Thanks for your comment! Glad you enjoyed this one.
I'm a jewelry artist and it one point I was thinking of making my knives from scratch and than engraving them. After watching this video I think I will just buy blank knife blades from folks who have put in so much time and equipment into their work. There is only so much time and space we have to do the things we love. Your video has only made me more aware of the craftsmanship and skill that goes into knife making. Thank you.
Thanks Shaun! And good luck with your engraving!
Videos like this is the reason why I watch TH-cam. Excellent work
Thank you Dan!
Really great built video! Thank you for putting this up. I'm going to build an oven for aluminum casting and this will be a great help. Love the idea of using a benchtop drill press as an overhead router for the bricks - that's genius actually. If you used a regular router or router table all that silicon dioxide dust would probably completely destroy the router. But with the drill press, the motor and bearings are mostly out of the way. Such a good idea!
Came out of necessity! lol; Cheers Tom
I've been doing automotive and industrial wiring for nearly 20 years now. When in doubt on wire size, always go bigger. It leaves room later to expand the part/machine and it guarantees smooth operation.
Thanks for the tip sir!
Awesome tutorial brother! Exactly what I was hoping for. I will put my Red Beard oven right next to my Red Beard etcher. Thanks for all you do!
Heck yeah, thanks man! Have a great weekend!
A tip for cutting the flashing or any sheet metal. Lay it down flat and use a straight edge and sharp utility knife and make a couple passes scoring it and then bend it and it will break perfectly. It basically looks like a factory edge. You don't have to cut nearly as deep into it as might think. I've done it with steel and aluminum. You can use a brake to bend and snap if you have one available. I do aluminum flashing on exterior trim which is how I learned this trick.
It's amazing how you can make something like this without a bunch of super expensive tools. I thought that drill press was some really high end model until I looked it up and saw that it's very reasonably priced. I have a similar sized one from Harbor Freight but that one looks nicer to me. This looks like a lot of work, but totally worth it with the price of pre made ones.
Thanks for the tip! Cheers
Another detailed and well thought out video James. You’re awesome. I appreciate you putting the cost list in there at the end. 👊🏻🇺🇸
Glad it was helpful!
When I made my muffle furnace, 35 years ago, I just used a Joiners hand saw to cut the bricks and the left-over pieces were useful for filling-in intricate areas of the brick-work. I did not use any cement, just used staggered gap brick laying and double brick walls. To complement the structure, I used refractory insulating blanket around the bricks and then covered the structure with 0.100" thick hot rolled steel plate with steel angle for the frame.
Very cool!
I completed most of the wiring today, just have to make and connect the elements, and detail the power supply. Fun build, man! Thanks for making it easy!
Nice work! Good luck!
Finally a decent video, simple and proffesional, even an amateur like me can feel confident to give it a go,, thanks for tutorial,
Glad it was helpful! Cheers lu!
this is awesome, my only problem. couldn't you have released this a month ago before I started building my propane oven lol. This will be my next oven build for sure, thanks for such a comprehensive tutorial.
Lol, sorry sir! Good luck on your build!
Nice build.
Thank you for going through the mistakes you made and how you corrected them as well. Thats a big help to all of us attempting tbe same project.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for making this video that lets hobby makers do very special thermal cycles.
Glad it was helpful!
BRAVO!!! Eseguiro' il TUO progetto. Ti stimo molto! Saluti da Venezia (IT)
Vi ringrazio molto! Buona settimana!
Oh man. I tripped over this exactly when needed. I'm gonna watch this a few times.
Nice! Good luck and stay safe with your build!
@@RedBeardOps A few times through and, as much as I love the video I think I'm gonna tap out on this one and save up to buy one. Mechanical and structural stuff is one thing. But screwing with electricity at that level is a bit beyond my ken.
In the immortal words of Dirty Harry: "A man's got to know his limitations." o7
@@madwilliamflint Man, I totally get it!
Awesome build mate! Very inspirational for an aspiring knife maker. Super informative and really well paced video. Thank you very much. Greatly appreciated.
Glad you liked it!
Best overview of the DIY oven build I’ve seen yet ! And bonus, it’s a great design too !! 👍🏻👍🏻
Glad you like it!
Nice detailed description.
Just a safety warning regarding the door switch. You mentioned in the beginning that you did this to prevent possible electrocution. But you may never assume that the SSR provides full electrical isolation and you should always use a relay with mechanical contacts to switch both sides of the coil off.
For anyone building this: if you buy a PID controller that is different from the one used, make sure it is a controller with an electrical output for SSR use. I originally bought a PID controller with a relay contact and this only allows for slow switching. The SSR plug-in unit I had to buy for that PID controller enables faster switching resulting in a more stable temperature.
Thanks for the tips sir
Awesome! The parts list with Amazon references is particularly helpful for all the little bushings connectors, etc. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Freaking sweet build... Can tell a ton of research went into it, thanks for documenting it all for us!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excelente video!! no te guardas nada, lo das todo, Gracias!
There is one case where the operator can get bit - where one of the solid-state relays shorts out and stays on. The heater will still operate normally, and the heater will still be disabled when the door is opened, leading one to think that everything is fine. BUT: the relay that is stuck on is still connecting voltage through the entire length of the heater, presenting a potential shock hazard - even if it is thermally cold. The right way (more expensive, of course) is to have the door switch operate a contactor (a big relay) that removes power from both ends of the heater. The cheap less safe way is to add an indicator light to either end of the heater and neutral (not ground). If it's on when the door is opened, it's a red flag that the wires still have voltage on them.
Cool information Kurt!
@@RedBeardOps Yeah it's a tricky "corner case." It's only a problem here in the US where we have 240V with a center neutral, so effectively, both ends are hot. This means that both ends of the heater have to be switched, as you've done. In the UK, they get straight 240V with no center neutral, so only need one switch on the hot side.
Your build, and especially your voice-over, is really excellent; the best I've seen for any oven build on YT. I'll be building one as well, based in part on your design. I'm taking to heart what you said about the door sealing and may do a counterweight door where gravity holds it shut. Thanks again for the video!
Really awesome vid mate 👍🏼👍🏼 the amount you learned along the way shows just how complex it can get!
I have talked to a local furnace company in my home town and they build hobby setups buy one thing the owner mentioned is that he likes to get his walls 120mm thick for safety and performance, he showed me his demo model getting up to 1100c in 20mins 🙀
Keep up the good work 🙌🏼
Very cool Chris! Cheers sir
One way to save heating element is to stretch the coils to separate, then hop coils until the proper resistance value is achieved based on multimeter ohms, THEN cut the wire. Great build.
Thanks for the tip
Amazingly descriptive! I learned a ton and hope to be making my own shortly copying a lot of your design! Thanks, Linus
Glad it was helpful!
Compared to most furnace build videos, your design and construction is relatively better.
Thank you!
Incredibly thorough and well-done. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just finished 'coiling' my heating wire, and using your wood block technique (with the tip to maintain slight pressure) it went perfectly. Brilliant! You saved me from hours of winding by hand and likely unsatisfying, mediocre result.
Nice work! Good luck with your build Joel!
From a industrial furnace engineer - well made.
Thank you Nolan!
Amazing video! I plan on making a control box this summer with an Arduino, and additional parts. A quick tip for those making your coils at home. For a more accurate reading on callipers, you should use the tips of your calliper’s lower jaws. That point is the most accurate due to the slight taper in the jaws.
Good luck on your build!
@@RedBeardOps thank you!
you did 1 hell of ajob on that oven it came out fantastic glad you finally did this video i wish it was here a few months back but im happy with my oven i built
Thankyou sir! It was a fun project for sure. Congrats on your oven!
Superb build& impressive video plus details guide for guys like me, beginners with small budgets and big technical resources congratulation again ! Cheers from Argentina
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you! Cheers from Texas!
Thank you for compiling all the information into this video! I built a similar device a few years back, in seeing yours I now have solutions to the things I didn't like about my build. Thank you again! Now I have explore your other videos and subscribe...
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
This is an exceptionally nice build for a DIY effort, and I could see this being ever so slightly modified for a fully professional outfit. Man, nice job!
I also went with an Auber PID though the next stage up that has a USB function so you can program on the PC and save your ramps and cools. Doing it directly through the PID isn't impossible, but having a folder of easily accessible and swappable profiles that you can add more functionality is a nice feature to have for down the road. My oven is a bit of an oddball as it's design is for a very large crucible and a reduced oxygen environment that can heat treat specific materials, graphitize, smelt, etc.
USB port would be awesome! That's a great idea for an upgraded model.
Damn nice of you to provide instructions and component list FOC. Some folks want to charge for that. Always a pleasure to watch you work.
Thanks William! Glad you enjoyed this one. I felt like there was a gap on the oven tutorials out there and I looked to fill that gap! Cheers
@@RedBeardOps Can you provide the electrical schematic for free too, or is it just for your Patreons?
@@bobvines00 The link to the wiring diagram in the description is free. Here it is - www.patreon.com/posts/50559429
@@RedBeardOps Thanks! I didn't realize that the stuff on Patreon could be made free like this. Thank you very much!
Brilliant! great job with this project. You really did your homework. thanks for all the detail, super complete. When i get ready to move past 1080/84 steel i am going to build one.
Glad you liked it John! It was a pleasure to build for sure... I think I like building knife making tools almost as much as making knives!
This is a really awesome tutorial/video appreciate all of the hard work that went into this. THe knife making making community has some really great content and yor stuff is on the top of that. THANKS!
Glad you liked it Matt! Cheers
Nice video and well done. By far from the videos I have watched this seems to be the most details. Thank you for that, wish you the best in your future endeavors.
Glad it was helpful!
Wow, very cool. That oven makes me want to get into the knife making business just so I have a reason to make one.
Heck yeah man! It was a fun build for sure!
Excellent Job on both the build and the completeness of the DIY video!!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
I made my clin before.. but learn too much form your build .. your video gonna be the bible of the builder .. thanks alot
Thank you Isa!
Nice! You really had to throw the info at us quickly to cover everything, but it was perfect. Great detail and very clearly filmed, edited and narrated. Well done and thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Very detailed, straight forward and well explained! Thank you for taking the time to make the video and share with us! Cheers!
Heck yeah man! Glad you liked it! Cheers
Thing is, I do have a journeyman electrician sertification. I used to be a general contractor for the purpose of installing home theaters. Sometimes you have to add a room to the house to get the job done.
Que video tan genial, eres un crack amigo. Admiro tu trabajo y sobre todo que lo compartas.
Saludos desde Ecatepec, México 🇲🇽
¡Muchas gracias! ¡Ten un excelente fin de semana!
NOTE: There are counterfeit Chinese SSRs on the market. I bought one through the snake company and then found an article that described the difference between the genuine and the counterfeit. They are labeled as handling a higher amperage than they actually can carry, and the genuine manufacturer has discontinued that particular line of SSRs due to this counterfeiting. My advice is to buy SSRs from a reputable electronics supplier, and avoid any low-priced 'deals' that you see online.
Good tip sir!
came out great, those brick grooves should save a lot of hassle. you definitely don't need to fuse the PID though, as fuses don't actually protect the appliance from failure, they protect against already failed appliance from causing a fire + melting the wire insulation. plus, PID controllers don't operate anywhere close to 1amp, its only a few milliamps (around 2ma to be exact) and there's such a low chance the PID will short circuit (compared to a heating coil circuit), that there's still no point installing in a very tiny milliamp range fuse. Bizarrely, I have seen quite a few builds were people have unnecessarily fused the PID controller, so it seems to be a trend that's caught on. Otherwise, it's still a great build :D
Thanks for the info Chris.
@@RedBeardOps no worries. looking forward to incorporating some of your ideas into my next build :)
Great build man! Really makes a HT oven accessible. We can buy parts a little at a time if need be to spread that cost over time.👏👏👏
Glad you liked it Wiley! Cheers sir!
A very convenient way to cut aluminum flashing is to score it with a matt knife and flex it a couple times to snap it, makes a very straight clean line.
Nice tip!
You could widen the element track for better exposure and lower coil temp, but leave a 0.5" section every couple of inches intact to continue capturing the coil.
Agreed!
Best oven build around. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you like it!
Great video mate, you have clearly put a lot of effort into your project and into conveying useful information to viewers. Thanks very much for that!
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
I dount that a professional person could do it better. Congratulations, a job perfectly done. You didn`t neef years of practice for that, It was rather the way you think. Excellent!
Wow, thank you very much sir! Have a great weekend!
Excellent video and commentary. It has me motivated to construct one myself. I noticed that you appear to be utilizing some sort of breathing apparatus while shaping the ceramic blocks. Please share what it is.
Thanks Richard! Glad you liked it! This respirator goes in and out of stock with COVID - Resp-O-Rator - amzn.to/2M6PMN7
Thank you for the quick response to my inquiry. I'll be looking for one for my shop. Thanks again for the exceptional video.
Great job! I was all ready to run out to the shop and bust one of these out then you started wiring up the box......
Lol, it's a little involved for sure! Cheers man
Quickly becoming my favorite build channel, nice work !
Awesome, thank you!
Something to consider is the surface loading of the wire. based on your calculations you get 30 watts/sq-in. if you're getting your oven up to or above 2000F then you're going to have shorter coil life. Ideally for operation around 2000F it should be closer to 20 watts/sq-in. the trade off would be how fast the coils reach the desired temperature, however in a smaller chamber the difference might be negligible.
Good thoughts!
The video was nicely done and easy to follow.
Thank you greatly!
Thank you for sharing this very informative tutorial videos yes I salute you idol the way of explanation done
Glad it was helpful!
Great build video. Made an excellent working oven as good or better than one could buy.
Glad you liked it Glen!
I didn't understand some things but I liked watching. Nice job bro
Glad you enjoyed it Ryan!
Ok... you give no choice. Now im going to make my own. Thank you.
Go for it! Good luck with your build!
@@RedBeardOps 🤘
Awesome build but as I’ve learned from building my grinder, I soon realized why they cost so much money. That being said, I’m not electrically inclined at all! Given the amount of time it would take, and at the cost you stated I know I’d probably be better off just buying one. However, I love your videos, keep up the good work!
Thanks man! You're right, there is a good deal of work involved! Personally I like making the tools almost as much as making the knives!
6:35 It's important to note that at 1200C the Kanthal A-1 wire has an increased resistance of around 4%, important to factor in the resistance at operating temp rather than just at room temp
Thanks for the info
Beautiful build this is on my todo list I just need a welder haha. I made a PID control box for my toaster oven and can keep it a few tenths of a degree consistently. Rebuilding a pottery kiln this winter and than this oven is next on my list or a greenhouse LOL. I will use much of your design and thanks so much for sharing and doing such a fine job documenting your build.
Very cool! Good luck with your build taz!
Dude! You crushed it man! Thank you so much! Parts, diagrams, everything! Thank you so much! Please do a follow up in a few months. Would love to hear how it holds up!
Thanks man! Glad you liked it. It's pretty much going to be used in every knife video I do on this channel (except for the next one since I had already made the knife without the oven). You should be able to get a good idea of how it's doing and I'll make sure to talk about it! Cheers sir!
Great video. Lots of good info. I might actually build instead of buy now... But man... You really love using a single wire color...
Thanks John! Yeah... I'm cheap. Kilnparts.com only seemed to have one color in the high temp and I wanted to make sure to use high temp. Cheers sir!
As always, I’m impressed with tour skills man. Super easy to follow along. And you go the extra mile with sourcing components for us.
Thank you
I appreciate that! I enjoy making videos like these builds.... They're something I wish I had.
Tip for future builders, get a $25 palm router from HF to clean up the grooves using the roundover bit after assembling the walls
Yeah, that would probably work good!
Thanks a lot Red Beard Ops ! Great video, one of the best making reference !🥰
I am just really surprised (and badly surprised in fact) that peoples in your cited references told to put 2 SSR like that 🤔 It doesn't make any sense .... even worst.... it could in fact be super counter productive by avoiding the SSR to work properly : SSR are here to switch on and off the current when it pass on 0, limiting switching (bad) effects. By putting two in series like that, it is just the best way to avoid them to recognize when the current is null by interfering with each other 🙄If they are rated for 40A and you want to switch 20A, no need to use 2 in all case 🤪
36:46. I saw this assembly and literally said out loud "Holy shit! He made that?!?!?" Looks great!
Lol, cheers sir! Glad you enjoyed the build
Perfect timing for me too, merci beaucoup mon ami ! Hi from Belgium.
Heck yeah! Good luck with your build! Cheers from Texas!
Excellent idea putting the switch on the door. I electrocuted myself in a high school jewelry class doing just that. Far and away the biggest shock I've ever had.
OUCH!
Excellent!! And very timely. More comments later!! Have a great day!!!
Thanks David!
I am seeing a pattern here in the comments:) I am serious when I say all the way from your prep/ and planning work to the explanation/ narration to video. So well done. Kudos.
Thanks hommie! Glad to have you on-board
That's a really slick build and nicely put together video explaining it.
Thank you!
Man, what a awesome video. Easy to understand and your build is perfectly clean. Congrats and thanks a lot!
Glad you liked it! Thank you!
I just ordered a bunch of items from your affiliate link. I hope that helps and you keep the videos coming! I'm really looking forward to your fallow up videos to see if you've made any changes. I'm also loving your leather videos. If you make one on motorcycle seats or similar. I'm sure I'll watch that over 20 times like I just did with this one.
Thanks Michael! I'll be using this guy for sure. May be a bit due to my shop move though.. Have a great week!
Great build and excellent commentary. I hope your rewards are many. Stay safe. Rex from DownUnder in Melbourne Australia
Thank you kindly! Glad you liked it man. Cheers from Texas!
Great video. I will definitely be watching it again when I build my oven. Also thanks for all the resource links.
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
Great video and narrative. Very well done.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
New to the channel. I've watch a couple of your files and I'm really enjoying them. I think you're on to something with your content.
Welcome aboard! And thank you! I'm glad you're liking them.
Thanks so much for this vid! I was planning on making a kiln and the detailed video will help so much!
Glad it was helpful!
@@RedBeardOps I binged several of your videos and the details in them are amazing dude! I subscribed to keep seeing the great content!
Suggestion. Create a Play list for all your DIY tool builds. 💚🌵☘
th-cam.com/play/PLsU2GCDL3VVnlwLdaq916GqYRyOEm1_hG.html
Thank you for making this. I've subscribed.
PS. you can make the kiln marginally more efficcient by cutting some internal vent holes to expose the nichrome heat elements slightly more. The current design actually "insulates" the elements inwards, which you don't want.
Thanks! I was slightly worried about that.