I am the owner of a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L with 155,000 miles. The car started over heating unexpectedly. There were No coolant leaks, No signs of the coolant in the oil, and No signs of oil in the coolant. Changed the thermostat without any difference. Took the thermostat out and gave it the boiling water test; it open normally. Feeling very frustrated at this point, and certainly did not want to pay for and $1800 head gasket replacement for a car that is only worth $1800 - $2200. Then I saw this video. I removed the new thermostat, drilled holes in it as instructed in the video, and not the car seems to be doing okay. Thank You brianmobile1!
still helping out! I did a 1990 Legacy Subaru swap into a '60s VW bus and I could not get the thing to bleed even with a brand new dealership thermostat and a vacuum bleeder! I pulled the thermostat out, drilled three holes, put it back together, used the vacuum bleeder again and... bam! No air! I'm finally on the road! Many thanks!
09 legacy with bad head gasket for several years now, finally started to overheat and push coolant into the overflow due to the thermostat not opening. Just have to limp her through a few more months before I begin car shopping. Replaced the thermostat hoping for a prayer and it unfortunately did not do the trick. Performed your thermostat modification and she’s running 1/4 way up the temp gauge and pushing heat as well which was crucial since I live in the northeast. Thank you so much for the modification idea. I know it’s not the fix the car truly needs but in the circumstances it’s exactly what I need.
Brian, This video solved my overheating problems. I just did both head gaskets on my son's 2003 Forester. I used a no spill funnel, but I could never get enough air out of the cooling system so that the thermostat would open. The water would boil at the top radiator hose while the bottom hose stayed cool. Drilling three small holes in the thermostat did the trick. This is how I would describe the problem. The water pump, pumps the water and compresses the air pockets in the system. This leaves a vacuum around the thermostat. Vacuum is the miracle that makes thermos bottles work. The cold water at the bottom of the radiator doesn't help either. After I drilled the holes, I saw a lot more air burp from the system and the cooling system works great. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Once you think you have its burped,I use a coolant funnel as well. Jack the front send up till you tires clear the ground by 2 inches or so. I will almost bet you get a big burp. The angle not only makes the radiator rise to a higher point, but by lifting the front end so that the engine angle changes slightly upward and it allows the air too move better past the stat.
If you want to test your thermostat, Don't take a torch to it.. Get a pan of water on the stove, put a thermometer in the water and fire up the stove.. When the water hits 180 (or whatever your thermostat is rated at) lower the thermostat into the water with pliers.. it should open rather quickly.. it may go up over rated temp by a few degrees, this is normal.. the torch changes the temper of the spring and it will weaken the spring.
Just did timing belt, water pump, thermostat. I could not get the thermostat to open after adding coolant, squeezing tube, refilling, etc. All with the heat on. Upper radiator line hot, bottom one cold. I then followed the tube from water pump up over the engine into the firewall. Took the tube off at the fire wall. It was empty. I put a funnel on it and poured coolant in until it eventually came out the radiator cap, which was open. This solved my problem. I was able to pour in about a third of a gallon. Basically I primed the system from the pumpand upwards into the engine.
Wow! I just tried this on my '03 forester with a bad head gasket and 210k miles. after a new thermostat, fan assembly, ECT censor this trick finally kept it from overheating! thanks for the post
Brian you saved my life! You rock man! This trick with drilling holes in the thermostat sorted out my problem, I would never figure out why the bloody thing would not open. Thanks so much!
my 03 legacy 2.5L, popped a heater core hose... replaced the hose. for the life of me, I could not stop it from overheating, Never past the 3/4 mark on the temp gauge) after replacing the hose... with this tip, I bought a new thermostat. getting ready to put it in! how ever, I gotta but a new rubber ring. the old one is expanded (swollen) to large. Great tip for the BURPING the air out. will try it tomorrow, When I get the new gasket for the thermostat and put it in.. my stat is the vertical style. Thank you very much for your help.. its been Driving me crazy.. p.s. I tested EVERYTHING, NOT HEAD GASKET, WATER PUMP, Has to be Trapped air... again thanks. will see what happens tomorrow. todays date is 4-24-24
Man, I know that feeling. If this doesn't work for whatever reason- drill a small hole at the top of the thermostat plate just under the rubber seal if the thermostat doesn't have a bubbler hole already. If it has the bubbler, make sure the hole is at the top when you install it.
Also, to speed up purging air that gets trapped in the heater core, with that yellow funnel attached and the car at operating temp , raise the rpms to 2100 and pinch the heater hoses alternately. The heater will be blazing (aka success) and the air purged from the system. A huge problem for turbo and 6 cylinder after a coolant service.
My car was overheating at idle due to a leaking head gasket. I just put a couple holes in the thermostat like you did and it works great. Thanks! It will give me more time to get the head gaskets replaced.
I burped my forester for 30 minutes, twice, still overheating randomly while driving. Radiator is shiny and brand new, with replaced radiator cap. Small air bubbles do not stop coming up while burping. Bubbles in the overflow tank after driving. Head gaskets done about 10k miles ago. Currently at 152k miles.
I am having this same endless subaru overheating problem because of bubbles being produced continually, despite replacing most things. Did you find the problem and a solution?
For my Ford F150 that doesn't have a radiator cap but instead has a coolant holding expansion tank (sort of like a windshield washer tank) the burping process is a little different. the problem is air can get trapped in the heater core because its higher than the coolant tank. So I jack the front of the truck up as high as it will go (floor jacks, ramps, lift) and the back end as low as it can go. Remove the coolant fill cap (similar to a radiator cap), start the engine and let it run for 30-40 mins and get real hot. Squeezing the radiator hose helps purge a lot of trapped air. It will bubble for a while until the cooling system is purged. Then no more 'waterfall' sound can be heard from the heater core in the cabin. Damn i should have just made a video on it, this was a lot of typing. Take it easy
Ozzstar What year is your F150? I'm having broken head gasket type symptoms on my 1998 Expedition. I'll give your method a try, hoping it's just trapped air. I have that same "waterfall" sound.
Thanks for the info either way- it's always useful to know that you should have the air exit at the highest point so get the burping hole as high as possible! However it works on your vehicle!
I made my own funnel with a standard wide mouthed funnel from a hardware shop and a rubber bung to fit inside the neck, old Phillips screwdriver stabbed into the top of the bung to form a handle, two wraps of insulation tape around outside of funnel neck to form a tight seal, total; cost $4.50. Love the videos btw Brian.
Brian, you have both feet on the ground firmly. a great sense of humour to boot, no doubt a clever dood to boot. Very much appreciate you upload it took care of my problem and put a smile on my chops. 👍
I've watched the other video you linked to and I watched this one, I appreciate all of the time, effort and quality you put into these videos. All of that said, and with all due respect, there's one thing I have to disagree with you on. I believe that that thermostat is of the standard wax-pellet design, the wax-pellet via it's thermal expansion properties, opens the thermostat at the proper temperature and that spring is there to help close the thermostat.
Hey Brian, I think that is a wax pellet style thermostat like most cars. There is wax inside the housing that expands when heated. That pushes the plunger and opens the valve, which is held closed by the spring. The expansion happens when the phase changes from solid to liquid: so in a small temperature window the valve goes from closed to open. By changing the wax, you can change that temperature.
This page has some issues* First line in the Wikipedia site. @ 3:39 you can see parts of the spring contracting at different rates by how it was heated. The hotter parts of the spring, contracted greater than the area which wasn't heated as fully.
Wow Brian! thanks for taking the time to make such an in depth video! I'm looking to change the coolant in my forester, and videos like these really help the weekend mechanic like myself.
I lost an engine due to a blockage in the thermostat hole. Zero flow through the radiator means the thermostat wont open. You end up with pressure buildup and coolant exiting the system. Worth noting is the temperature sensor can still read normal throughout this process. I did a 200 mile road trip and this happened. I got to the top of a large hill, and the car shut down. Engine dry and smoking, headgasket blown. Temperature reading normal the entire time.
Thanks for the info I didn't have the funnel or the cash to get one so I just invented something that worked like it using a 2liter bottle and it worked out fine
Just what I needed Brian! It seems like when I bought my 2002 Subaru imprezza that the guy did a head gasket change (I can see the heads on the sides are shiny silvery and new- but apparently DIDNT burp the system right- because when driving it the 10 minute problem occurred- when I took it for the test drive I think I cut the car off right before it would have reached that mark because I wouldn't have bought it. I changed the thermostat at first when I did my original troubleshooting and did a regular system burp for about 7-8 minutes while pressing the hose a few times.. However the problem happened again after driving for a whole- and I think not having the funnel system may be the problem... Or perhaps the new heads are blown ! 😒😒😒 I'll see when I do another burp with the tool. Thanks as always
Been waiting for a trans fluid change on a 05 Subaru Outback, but couldn't wait no more. I found by putting a hole in the bottom of the filter and pullin the drain bolt at the same time you can get a little over 7 qts out. Oh I also jacked the pass. side up so the tires were 6-7"s off the ground. I in another 40K I will change it again.
I did this whole project to get the burps out. I got that filter and used it for 15 to 20 minutes with the engine running..... at 20 min. the engine was still burping.... it never stopped burping. the oil is clean the trans oil is clean and the radiator water is clean. I can't find what is causing the burps
I know this is so long ago but please respond. Working on my 2016 subaru legacy... The car is not overhearing yet...but it's pending. Here is the issue, the fan does not come on automatically as it should. I can use the ac to trigger fan and they will come on. temp will go all the way up to 217f fan doesn't come on. I've change thermostat and made sure the jiggle valve is facing the same position as the original. I removed the waterpump and it is not damaged or broken. The radiator is full of coolant and I had the car running with the radiator cap off for one hr to purge any trap air. Also change the engine coolant temperature sensor. Took it on the highway for about 30mins at 80mph in Georgia. It did not over heat but when I can back home the top radiator hose was hot which is normal but the bottom rad hose was just barely warm. What the hell. I'm using a basic obd scanner/reader. I'm able to view live data to see ect temp while I'm driving. At 80mph the car went up to 210f used the ac to turn the fan on and bring it back down.
That could be the fan motor.(considering 2016). My fan did'nt automatically come ON even after the temp reached, but sometimes with AC ON, it worked and finally found its the fan motor gone bad. When i hit on the fan motor with a wrench, the motor sometimes starts ON. Replaced both fan motors. Crack opened the motor to see the carbon brushes are almost done.
A car thermostat isn't bimetallic technology. It is a wax motor to open and spring to close. Thanks for the tip on how to get by while you figure out what to do with a blow head gasket.
Never had a problem with my 02 Subaru 2.5 in my vanagon. If the thermostat needed holes drilled into it Subaru would have put them there (it already has one). Holes will allow cold coolant to be drawn into the thermostat slowing its opening imo.
Thank you for this im so nervous i lost my home and job due to medical reasons and need to drive 2600 miles to a safe place. 99 forester overheats uphill pretty bad. Replaced radiator cap seemed to help but bought a new thermostat and just so afraid to put it in and make it worse.
By the way, it took a full day just to pack my automotive supplies and tools. For something that was a small percent of a household wow. No wonder this DIY is going pro.
Also make sure the thermostat has a bleeder in it. Some do not have the bleeder and they will not let the coolant fill from the bottom side of the thermostat, which pushes the air out.If you use the style with the bleeder, the system fills and bleeds properly.Hope this is helpful.
So, once you drill holes in the thermostat, that little valve becomes useless, right? If so, why not chop it out as one of the holes you're creating? Thanks for the helpful videos!
No the valve will still open assuming the spring hasn't ceased once the coolant flowing past has reached operating temp. The drilled holes just allow the air bubble stopping the hot coolant from submerging the thermostat an letting it open naturally. Small holes allow the heating system to still work. Chopping out the spring or removing the thermostat completely will not allow the heater to work as the coolant never sits in the engine long enough can also break water pumps as they free spin pretty much an dont have the desired load for the torque of the pump drive.
Hey Brian! It's Shepperd. The Jewish me-chan-ic. I had this same problem on a 2006 Outback after replacement of the timing belt and water pump. After the engine cooled off I disconnected the heater hoses and , using a funnel , filled the engine that way. But I like you're method better. Mozeltav! Great vid as always.
Thanks Brian found your vid at Bout 7 pm after struggling to bleed a 1993 liberty after installing a timing kit , ended up drilling the thermostat as per your advise solved the problem for now many thanks. Gordon
@@briansmobile1 after putting the holes in the thermostat, I've noticed a lot of totally random and drastic fluctuations in the temperature gauge while driving. it seems to spike when slowing and idling after going highway speeds. That may have something to do with air in the system, which would be getting in through a faulty head gasket I assume?
4:19 - I wouldn't say air dissapates heat quickly. Things heat and cool faster via conduction as opposed to convection, so I reckon it's more accurate to say air does not transfer heat as well as fluid. Thanks for your video though - good explaination of the phenomenon I hear the subaru guys complaining about all the time in the dealership I'm working at now.
I replace my rad, my water pump/timing belt and my thermostat twice and still the same problem. Then I found this video and it saved my car and my mental health!! Non related question: I need a new catalytic converter but I don’t want to change it. Is there a way to bypass the sensor to get the check engine light to go off? Thanks for your help!
Mateo Carlos Thanks for getting back. It’s an 03 forester, 2.5l The coil went on it it years ago and the raw fuel going through must’ve messed the catalytic up. About $1000 to replace it.
Brian I always love your videos.... having a sense of humor is always necessary especially working on Subarus. LOL... again your videos are always extremely helpful keep up the good work.
Hola briansmobile1, tengo un subaru outbac 2003 2.5 ej251 y hace unas semana cambie el refrigerante y termostato. Lo conducir en cuidad y nunca dio signos de calentamiento hasta que un fin de semana que salí de viaje a la playa con peso en el porta equipaje y todos sus asientos ocupado y en rectas no tena inconvenientes pero al momento de tomar un pendiente larga y pronunciada comenzaba a subir la temperatura. busque un taller y sacaron el termostato "este tenia mucha silicona". después de no tuve problemas al regresar a mi hogar. Pero ahora se viene el invierno a mi país (Chile) y se demora en tomar temperatura de trabajo por lo que tiene mas consumo de bencina. Voy a intentar de hacer 3 orificios al termostato (es el mismo termostato que muestras en el video) y espero solucionar este problema. No veo burbujas ni intercambio de refrigerante/aceite en sus respectivos sistemas. Saludos.
My 07 Tribeca is back at the dealer for the third time, originally for a head gasket job with that classic head gasket failure you named in another video, gasses in the water jacket but no water in the cylinder.. I notice you don't have any videos on the 6cyl EZ30 engine.
Hi Brian, thanks for the video on burping the cooling system and the info on the thermostat modification. I have a '99 Outback that I bought a few months ago with over 300,000 klms on the clock, it has had an intermittent overheating issue since purchase, I replaced the water pump and thermostat and fitted a timing belt kit and the overheating settled down for a time. This last week or two it started playing up again, I found your burping video and tried that with no success so I drilled some holes in the t/stat and have done over 200 klms this weekend with out any issues in temperatures around the mid 20 degrees C. I do believe that I may have a blown head gasket because I have one spark plug with a slight green ting to it. Thanks again for your helpful videos. Regards...Terry (Mechanix) from Tasmania, Australia.
Thanks brian ive been enjoying your videos for a while. I watched a video a few weeks ago about drilling sheet metal or thin plastic brass ect... without it being drawn up by the bit . The guy in the video said to purposely dull the bit first.
Thank you for making this video and taking the time to explain the vertical vs horizontal thermostat issue. My '98 Forester has the vertically oriented kind. :( Btw, be careful testing thermostats (that you are actually going to use) with a blowtorch rather than hot water because you could mess up the heat treatment of the spring. Thanks again.
I have 2005 Impreza that we changed the radiator and thermostat and car will only overheat if driving over 55mph...any ideas? Has passed the pressure test and chemical test for head gasket problem. Has sit for 2 plus hours at idle and no issues and fans work. Gauge is in line with temp on scanner. Then driven almost 100 miles on highway and interstate. For me never went over halfway or 204 degrees. Gave it back to my son and 20 minutes to 30 minutes of driving, not even 20 miles down interstate and overheated on him. Never overheated on other 2 people who drove it after the initial fix. He is in drive, I thought maybe he had it in a lower gear. Now it overheated again and is leaking. I don’t know where from cause the car is 100 miles away from me now. He let it cool down to finish driving home after new radiator cap put on ( just to make sure other new one wasn’t bad) and he said if he kept it under 55 that he was fine. I drove the car at 75-80 miles an hour for 10 miles before doing 70 for 30 miles and no problems. Any ideas please hit me up!
I have 2003 Subaru Legacy that over heats after ten minutes....I did the head gaskets with turbo head gaskets 60,000 miles ago..... I changed the radiator and thermastat and cap and it still over heats... it pushes all the coolant to the overflow...the thing is if i I m on the gas the car wont over heat I can climb a mountain no problems for 15 minutes. Its only when i m off the gas or at low engine speeds.
You most likely have air accumulated around the thermostat spring. You can solve this by drilling an air by-pass hole, burping it as shown, or getting a waterpump and water inlet/thermostat housing & lower radiator hose that are of updated design. (they bolt up to older cars too)
Lol, great video btw briansmobile1! @ 6:18 you forgot to put "Headache leading to possible migraine", "high blood pressure", "loss of appetite/money" on that list, lol ^.^
Hi! Don't you have to turn your heater on full blast to open the thermostat and get the bubbles out as I hear sloshing in my dash and feel the bubbles are up there.
I subscribed. My brother worked for Subaru. He's in the states and I'm in Puerto Rico now. I bought a 97 Subaru legacy outback and had to do the head gasket seal....didn't got water pump but, I did got a new thermostat. Just got the car today and the temperature thin on the dashboard is not working when it was working perfectly before. I don't trust the mechanic, sometimes cheap costs more. Could I be a fuse ? Or do you recomend to do the burp thing? Please help😥
Brian, you are freaking Rock Star brother! Thank you so much for doing all this and sharing your knowledge. I definitely don't have the do-re-me or gumption to take on the head gasket right now, so this is a precious piece of advice. Thank you again.
Good video and timely. I burped my 95 legacy and im still getting water rushing noises through the heater core. Not sure what it could be. I dont appear to have coolant loss only hair loss at this stage, worrying how to fix it.
I have a 98 subaru outback ej25d dohc and it over heats, when ever i take off the radiator cap off water/coolant spills from it. I dont think its a head gasket issue or etc. Theirs no leaks none. Just got done replacing the thermostat and was flushing my coolant system, thats when it started to spill water/coolant from the radiator.
I have a 94 Accord that began to overheat following timing-component change (done by me). Will that funnel work if it's NOT the head gasket? It got worse so I think it IS the head gasket but not 100% sure. Also I believe the reason the thermostat opened is you heated the sensing-bulb inside the spring...I've had the sensing bulb fail on one before...
Hey Brian great video it really helped me out i drilled the 3 holes in the thermostat and now no more overheating.(hoo ray) Now when i'm on the expressway the temperature gauge stays closer to the Cold than the normal operating temp I'm thinking of maybe putting another thermostat in and only drilling 2 holes instead of 3. 1997 subaru legacy outback 175,000 miles Thank You
Amigo, como te fue con los 2 agujeros? pretendo hacer los mismo en mi subaru outback, pero pienso que tres tomara mucho tiempo en calentarse y vivo al sur de Chile y en invierno hace mucho frió. Saludos
The list for consequences for drilling your thermostat at 6:22 really had me laughing. Yes, yes, logical as I read, and then the jokes, but true answers. Thanks Brian! I remembered to like the video at that point. :)
Thank you for the video and very informative. I have a 2013 Subaru outback, my antifreeze is leaking from the top holes, hitting the fan and going everywhere. I tighten the ring around the holes and replace the holes and replace the fan is self the radiator valve still have the same problem you have any suggestions please
I just changed my timing belt and water pump on a 2007 Legacy, SOHC 2.5, all went well until I turned on. I heard a loud screech and smoke came billowing out from water pump area. Now the temperature gauge stays at 1/4 instead of half. I’m getting heat from driver side vents in car and not the passenger side...🤦🏻♂️
Brian, I had to replace my radiator due to a leak so in the process I replace the hoses and the thermostat. Now I'm having one hell of a time getting the car to burp and quit overheating. I ended up getting a radiator bucket, I can't tell you how many hours I've ran the car, revved the car up to 3000 or 4000 RPM, I've done everything I can think of and it still overheats if I don't run 50mph and no faster, with the heater on full blast. It's not a head gasket, it's nothing else, the car was fine before I had to replace the radiator. What more can I do to get this system purged??
@longducdong Make sure thermostat opens at the temp printed on it. Put it in a pan of water heated up to just above the printed temp. Check that the new rad is not slightly blocked & has good flow. Lastly put your lips around the coolant tank(inlet mounted) & blow into it whilst pinching closed the expansion tank(rad mounted) hose, that can help burp it.
Hi dear friend... Nice vídeo! Today I found this myself, if you are getting air on your cooling sistem.... It could be a BAD (old) radiador CAP, in my situation,... my Forest have 02 CAPS. My Forest xt 2.5 2010, just started getting fluido back to the small tank (reservatory coolant) Installed new cap, problem solved.! 😁
Hey Brian, On vehicles that tend to be problem childs I have put a single 1/8" hole in t-stat flange before to aid in bleeding and never had any negative effects form it. I think the technical name for the "bubbler" is a jiggle pin ;) (just some useless knowledge) Any how an the early 00's soobies do you remove the bleed hole on the top of the passenger side of the radiator to let air out or pull a hose off the throttle body to let air out? Just curious. --Eric O.
I bought a 2003 Subaru Legacy with 93k on it that had a blown head gasket. The garage I bought it from machined and replaced gaskets, spark plugs and timing belt. A few weeks later it was overheating after 10 minutes of driving. Garage replaced the thermostat with OEM one and a new radiator because temperature was not consistent across it. Now the car has been good except that the temperature gauge climbs up when idling at stops. As soon as I start driving again, it goes back down to normal temp. The fans do run also. Does this sound like it needs burped or water pump issue since everything else has been messed with already? Your post are great!
Last winter 2017 I had head gasket, water pump replaced on my 2004 Impreza Outback Sport. Those colder months car was fine until recently when we had our first two days in a row of near 100 degrees temp. Car never had overheating issues even before head gasket job. Therefore I was initially surprised in stop and go traffic when I'd came to a stop and glancing over to dash gauges I was horrified that temp was hoovering like 3/4 up past normal into hot range. I immediately turned off ac and slowly the temp backed down. When car is going down the road even with ac on it's fine but only goes up in stop and go and at idle. I've often wondered if the head gasket job particularly water pump was to blame being I went through five or more years without any issues during hot summer months. Kinda made the connections. Now seeing your video I realized perhaps dude that performed job probably let in air during installation. Will perform this step to see if problem is resolved. Thanks
Just did headgaskets on a 2004 outback with EJ25 NA engine. Car runs great but still has some issue with gurgling sounds at heater cored. We had flushed and reverse flushed the heater core, block passages, and put in a brand new radiator.. Still having an issue. Seems fine for awhile, but then temp starts creeping up to 215, lower hose cold. We ran without the thermostat to get the car home and the temp stayed a constant 130 degrees with 45 degree ambient temperature. When we had the heads off, the block read just over the limit for flatness. Could it really be that this didn't allow a new gasket to seal correctly? No vapor from tailpipe, no seepage anywhere, so could it be that we are blowing combustion gasses into the coolant passages?
Brian, My daughter has a 95 Subarau Legacy Outback and we recently replaced the radiatior, all the hoses, and the thermostat and it continues to overheat. There are no signs what so ever that are any head gasket issues. We have also burped the system numerous times. I don't know what else it could be?
Great video and thanks for it. I just bought a 2003 Legacy L and it has the sloshing sound and sometimes it does fine with heating and then next min (when sitting still) it starts to get hot. Would this burping issue be there if the head gasket has already been replaced? Thanks for your time and assistance
Hey @briansmobile1 , first off just wanted to thank you for making your videos. You've helped me on a ton of repairs/maintenance over the years! On to my main question, I have a 2000 Legacy GT and recently replaced the timing, water pump, & thermostat. Was getting mild overheating in really hot weather sitting in traffic and came to find out it was due to my fans not kicking on. Read temps reporting from ECU vs the gauge and they would never go above like 176. Swapped temp sensor and now my problem is opposite. My gauge IMMEDIATELY goes to middle when I cold start the vehicle and then gradually just pegs to as hot as it will go after the car running for maybe 2-3 minutes tops. ECU read out from OBD II almost never goes about 195. While driving the car it heats up in traffic but fans kick on when they should and drops it down to 194 as it should. Although when driving consistently it continues to heat, got it to 212 before turning on heat to cool it down. Any ideas on my issue? Any help is MUCH appreciated, thank you!!!
Brian you are a good man, a bit cheeeeeky,,, you must have some Australian in you. Am trying to take all this seriously and reading your stuff only to find your Australian style jokes. Your comment and advice help me identify a major problem with my Subi 2001 forester. My top hose was very hot yet the bottom was cold. and my fan would not switch on.... must have a massive air lock or something else...... Thank you very very much from Lismore NSW Australia.
Hello Brian awesome information thank you!! I have a 2013 Subie Crosstrek Limited with 74,000 miles. I read i n the manual to service cooling system every 8 to 10 years/80,ooo to 100,00 miles. I still have all the OEM cooling hoses. My engine went in for a valve spring re=call and they told me they replaced the coolant. I feel I should replace ALL the coolant hoses, both thermostats and new coolant. TIA for any info help you can give me, PLEASE??
HI Brian, I have a Subaru Tribeca 2011 3.6L, changed head gasket 1 year ago and started overheating, fixed radiator and thermostat, car still overheating. Still have to try your solution.
If this doesn't work, try putting a bubbler hole in the plate of your thermostat that can pass air as an experiment for compression gasses leak into the coolant in small volume. The gasses can accumulate around the t-stat spring and insulate it to not open. The hole farts it through so hot coolant can reach and affect the bi-metal spring to open the thermostat. I've done this for broke college kids in Utah with a lot of success, but it does cause slower warm up to op. temp, but not too bad.
Have you ever had the bucket overflow? I had it happen twice and it can get really messy. I keep a shop vac standing buy just in case I tries to happen again. I try to keep it about 1/4 full and add fluid as needed as it sucks it in, but sometimes when I assume an air bubble flash steams the level rises really quickly and overflows. I've also thought about making a bigger bucket. Thanks, Chris
Thanks for the tricks to get past potential head gasket leaking into the coolant. I picked up an abused beater 2004 Subaru desperate to get out of rentals and not wanting to spend any more on the car than absolutely necessary because a dry front diff and burnt tranny fluid indicates abuse and there is no reason for that with todays access to info for a perfectly healthy guy. I have to re- pull the housing and thermostat and see if I over tightened and cracked the housing, did the gasket not reseal despite trying to clean it, and\ or did I bend the thermostat flange popping out the guts to run without the spring and test if the system was otherwise working. Are you located near Baltimore or have any contacts here?
What if I have two thermostats in my Outback 3.0? A large one and a small one? Should I do it on both, or just on the one connected to the water pump?"
I am the owner of a 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L with 155,000 miles. The car started over heating unexpectedly. There were No coolant leaks, No signs of the coolant in the oil, and No signs of oil in the coolant. Changed the thermostat without any difference. Took the thermostat out and gave it the boiling water test; it open normally. Feeling very frustrated at this point, and certainly did not want to pay for and $1800 head gasket replacement for a car that is only worth $1800 - $2200. Then I saw this video. I removed the new thermostat, drilled holes in it as instructed in the video, and not the car seems to be doing okay. Thank You brianmobile1!
Im doing the same. 😃👍👍
I have the fuckin same problem I will do the same
still helping out! I did a 1990 Legacy Subaru swap into a '60s VW bus and I could not get the thing to bleed even with a brand new dealership thermostat and a vacuum bleeder! I pulled the thermostat out, drilled three holes, put it back together, used the vacuum bleeder again and... bam! No air! I'm finally on the road! Many thanks!
09 legacy with bad head gasket for several years now, finally started to overheat and push coolant into the overflow due to the thermostat not opening. Just have to limp her through a few more months before I begin car shopping. Replaced the thermostat hoping for a prayer and it unfortunately did not do the trick. Performed your thermostat modification and she’s running 1/4 way up the temp gauge and pushing heat as well which was crucial since I live in the northeast. Thank you so much for the modification idea. I know it’s not the fix the car truly needs but in the circumstances it’s exactly what I need.
Brian, This video solved my overheating problems. I just did both head gaskets on my son's 2003 Forester. I used a no spill funnel, but I could never get enough air out of the cooling system so that the thermostat would open. The water would boil at the top radiator hose while the bottom hose stayed cool. Drilling three small holes in the thermostat did the trick. This is how I would describe the problem. The water pump, pumps the water and compresses the air pockets in the system. This leaves a vacuum around the thermostat. Vacuum is the miracle that makes thermos bottles work. The cold water at the bottom of the radiator doesn't help either. After I drilled the holes, I saw a lot more air burp from the system and the cooling system works great. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Exactly what I thought. The vacuum thing, thank you
Once you think you have its burped,I use a coolant funnel as well. Jack the front send up till you tires clear the ground by 2 inches or so. I will almost bet you get a big burp. The angle not only makes the radiator rise to a higher point, but by lifting the front end so that the engine angle changes slightly upward and it allows the air too move better past the stat.
If you want to test your thermostat, Don't take a torch to it.. Get a pan of water on the stove, put a thermometer in the water and fire up the stove.. When the water hits 180 (or whatever your thermostat is rated at) lower the thermostat into the water with pliers.. it should open rather quickly.. it may go up over rated temp by a few degrees, this is normal.. the torch changes the temper of the spring and it will weaken the spring.
he got that spring red hot so its ruined now.
Just did timing belt, water pump, thermostat. I could not get the thermostat to open after adding coolant, squeezing tube, refilling, etc. All with the heat on. Upper radiator line hot, bottom one cold. I then followed the tube from water pump up over the engine into the firewall. Took the tube off at the fire wall. It was empty. I put a funnel on it and poured coolant in until it eventually came out the radiator cap, which was open. This solved my problem. I was able to pour in about a third of a gallon. Basically I primed the system from the pumpand upwards into the engine.
This was a 98 legacy outback.
Wow! I just tried this on my '03 forester with a bad head gasket and 210k miles. after a new thermostat, fan assembly, ECT censor this trick finally kept it from overheating! thanks for the post
I’m a total stunt man, self trained and fearless. I’ll be squeezing that hose like there’s no tomorrow! Thanks for the vid.
Brian you saved my life! You rock man! This trick with drilling holes in the thermostat sorted out my problem, I would never figure out why the bloody thing would not open. Thanks so much!
my 03 legacy 2.5L, popped a heater core hose... replaced the hose. for the life of me, I could not stop it from overheating, Never past the 3/4 mark on the temp gauge) after replacing the hose... with this tip, I bought a new thermostat. getting ready to put it in! how ever, I gotta but a new rubber ring. the old one is expanded (swollen) to large. Great tip for the BURPING the air out. will try it tomorrow, When I get the new gasket for the thermostat and put it in.. my stat is the vertical style. Thank you very much for your help.. its been Driving me crazy.. p.s. I tested EVERYTHING, NOT HEAD GASKET, WATER PUMP, Has to be Trapped air... again thanks. will see what happens tomorrow. todays date is 4-24-24
Man, I know that feeling. If this doesn't work for whatever reason- drill a small hole at the top of the thermostat plate just under the rubber seal if the thermostat doesn't have a bubbler hole already. If it has the bubbler, make sure the hole is at the top when you install it.
Also, to speed up purging air that gets trapped in the heater core, with that yellow funnel attached and the car at operating temp , raise the rpms to 2100 and pinch the heater hoses alternately. The heater will be blazing (aka success) and the air purged from the system. A huge problem for turbo and 6 cylinder after a coolant service.
My car was overheating at idle due to a leaking head gasket. I just put a couple holes in the thermostat like you did and it works great. Thanks! It will give me more time to get the head gaskets replaced.
I burped my forester for 30 minutes, twice, still overheating randomly while driving. Radiator is shiny and brand new, with replaced radiator cap. Small air bubbles do not stop coming up while burping. Bubbles in the overflow tank after driving. Head gaskets done about 10k miles ago. Currently at 152k miles.
I am having this same endless subaru overheating problem because of bubbles being produced continually, despite replacing most things. Did you find the problem and a solution?
I'm having this problem currently what do you recommend
Recommendations anyone
Guys just get a cooler thermostat and drill holes in it
For my Ford F150 that doesn't have a radiator cap but instead has a coolant holding expansion tank (sort of like a windshield washer tank) the burping process is a little different. the problem is air can get trapped in the heater core because its higher than the coolant tank. So I jack the front of the truck up as high as it will go (floor jacks, ramps, lift) and the back end as low as it can go. Remove the coolant fill cap (similar to a radiator cap), start the engine and let it run for 30-40 mins and get real hot. Squeezing the radiator hose helps purge a lot of trapped air. It will bubble for a while until the cooling system is purged. Then no more 'waterfall' sound can be heard from the heater core in the cabin. Damn i should have just made a video on it, this was a lot of typing. Take it easy
Ozzstar What year is your F150? I'm having broken head gasket type symptoms on my 1998 Expedition. I'll give your method a try, hoping it's just trapped air. I have that same "waterfall" sound.
It's a 1997 with a 4.6L V8
Thanks for the info either way- it's always useful to know that you should have the air exit at the highest point so get the burping hole as high as possible! However it works on your vehicle!
Thanks. This exactly the problem I'm trying to fix.
Also, on 90's subarus there is an air bleed plug on the passenger side top of the radiator to properly bleed the air out of the system.
🤔🤔🤔
I made my own funnel with a standard wide mouthed funnel from a hardware shop and a rubber bung to fit inside the neck, old Phillips screwdriver stabbed into the top of the bung to form a handle, two wraps of insulation tape around outside of funnel neck to form a tight seal, total; cost $4.50. Love the videos btw Brian.
Include a pic
So cool to see credits say thanks for 100k subs and now he is @ nearly 500k wow man good shiz
Brian, you have both feet on the ground firmly. a great sense of humour to boot, no doubt a clever dood to boot. Very much appreciate you upload it took care of my problem and put a smile on my chops. 👍
thank god ive escaped the head gasket issue so far on my '02 impreza. but this is a brilliant gem of info to file away for someday. Thanks Brian
Pros and cons list was hilarious. Super helpful and informative - thank you!!
I've watched the other video you linked to and I watched this one, I appreciate all of the time, effort and quality you put into these videos. All of that said, and with all due respect, there's one thing I have to disagree with you on. I believe that that thermostat is of the standard wax-pellet design, the wax-pellet via it's thermal expansion properties, opens the thermostat at the proper temperature and that spring is there to help close the thermostat.
Hey Brian, I think that is a wax pellet style thermostat like most cars. There is wax inside the housing that expands when heated. That pushes the plunger and opens the valve, which is held closed by the spring. The expansion happens when the phase changes from solid to liquid: so in a small temperature window the valve goes from closed to open. By changing the wax, you can change that temperature.
Yep, en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wax_thermostatic_element
This page has some issues*
First line in the Wikipedia site.
@ 3:39 you can see parts of the spring contracting at different rates by how it was heated. The hotter parts of the spring, contracted greater than the area which wasn't heated as fully.
Yeah, steel will do that when you heat it with a torch. Its just a simple steel spring.
with a section that isn't tempered the same as the rest now... so it will pull sideways.
Wow Brian! thanks for taking the time to make such an in depth video! I'm looking to change the coolant in my forester, and videos like these really help the weekend mechanic like myself.
I lost an engine due to a blockage in the thermostat hole. Zero flow through the radiator means the thermostat wont open.
You end up with pressure buildup and coolant exiting the system.
Worth noting is the temperature sensor can still read normal throughout this process.
I did a 200 mile road trip and this happened. I got to the top of a large hill, and the car shut down. Engine dry and smoking, headgasket blown. Temperature reading normal the entire time.
Thanks for the info I didn't have the funnel or the cash to get one so I just invented something that worked like it using a 2liter bottle and it worked out fine
Just what I needed Brian! It seems like when I bought my 2002 Subaru imprezza that the guy did a head gasket change (I can see the heads on the sides are shiny silvery and new- but apparently DIDNT burp the system right- because when driving it the 10 minute problem occurred- when I took it for the test drive I think I cut the car off right before it would have reached that mark because I wouldn't have bought it.
I changed the thermostat at first when I did my original troubleshooting and did a regular system burp for about 7-8 minutes while pressing the hose a few times..
However the problem happened again after driving for a whole- and I think not having the funnel system may be the problem... Or perhaps the new heads are blown ! 😒😒😒 I'll see when I do another burp with the tool.
Thanks as always
Been waiting for a trans fluid change on a 05 Subaru Outback, but couldn't wait no more. I found by putting a hole in the bottom of the filter and pullin the drain bolt at the same time you can get a little over 7 qts out. Oh I also jacked the pass. side up so the tires were 6-7"s off the ground. I in another 40K I will change it again.
I did this whole project to get the burps out. I got that filter and used it for 15 to 20 minutes with the engine running..... at 20 min. the engine was still burping.... it never stopped burping. the oil is clean the trans oil is clean and the radiator water is clean.
I can't find what is causing the burps
I have the same problem. I believe it is because the blown head gasket is introducing combustion gasses into the coolant.
I know this is so long ago but please respond. Working on my 2016 subaru legacy... The car is not overhearing yet...but it's pending. Here is the issue, the fan does not come on automatically as it should. I can use the ac to trigger fan and they will come on. temp will go all the way up to 217f fan doesn't come on. I've change thermostat and made sure the jiggle valve is facing the same position as the original. I removed the waterpump and it is not damaged or broken. The radiator is full of coolant and I had the car running with the radiator cap off for one hr to purge any trap air. Also change the engine coolant temperature sensor. Took it on the highway for about 30mins at 80mph in Georgia. It did not over heat but when I can back home the top radiator hose was hot which is normal but the bottom rad hose was just barely warm. What the hell. I'm using a basic obd scanner/reader. I'm able to view live data to see ect temp while I'm driving. At 80mph the car went up to 210f used the ac to turn the fan on and bring it back down.
That could be the fan motor.(considering 2016).
My fan did'nt automatically come ON even after the temp reached, but sometimes with AC ON, it worked and finally found its the fan motor gone bad.
When i hit on the fan motor with a wrench, the motor sometimes starts ON.
Replaced both fan motors.
Crack opened the motor to see the carbon brushes are almost done.
A car thermostat isn't bimetallic technology. It is a wax motor to open and spring to close.
Thanks for the tip on how to get by while you figure out what to do with a blow head gasket.
Never had a problem with my 02 Subaru 2.5 in my vanagon. If the thermostat needed holes drilled into it Subaru would have put them there (it already has one). Holes will allow cold coolant to be drawn into the thermostat slowing its opening imo.
Thanks for this video, I have now learn something about the hi speed fan not kicking up
also you can take the upper end of the radiator hose off and back fill it we had same problem with the old 2.8 carping motors
Thank you for this im so nervous i lost my home and job due to medical reasons and need to drive 2600 miles to a safe place. 99 forester overheats uphill pretty bad. Replaced radiator cap seemed to help but bought a new thermostat and just so afraid to put it in and make it worse.
Brian, good luck on the move! Godspeed.
Agreed Shaun. Moved myself recently. It's a bear....plus, couldn't move straight to a house I want so I have the full true move-in yet to come. Argh!
By the way, it took a full day just to pack my automotive supplies and tools. For something that was a small percent of a household wow. No wonder this DIY is going pro.
Also make sure the thermostat has a bleeder in it. Some do not have the bleeder and they will not let the coolant fill from the bottom side of the thermostat, which pushes the air out.If you use the style with the bleeder, the system fills and bleeds properly.Hope this is helpful.
So, once you drill holes in the thermostat, that little valve becomes useless, right? If so, why not chop it out as one of the holes you're creating?
Thanks for the helpful videos!
No the valve will still open assuming the spring hasn't ceased once the coolant flowing past has reached operating temp.
The drilled holes just allow the air bubble stopping the hot coolant from submerging the thermostat an letting it open naturally.
Small holes allow the heating system to still work.
Chopping out the spring or removing the thermostat completely will not allow the heater to work as the coolant never sits in the engine long enough can also break water pumps as they free spin pretty much an dont have the desired load for the torque of the pump drive.
Hey Brian! It's Shepperd. The Jewish me-chan-ic. I had this same problem on a 2006 Outback after replacement of the timing belt and water pump. After the engine cooled off I disconnected the heater hoses and , using a funnel , filled the engine that way. But I like you're method better. Mozeltav! Great vid as always.
Dude The stuntman crack at 1.22 was hilarious. U crack me up.
Thanks Brian found your vid at Bout 7 pm after struggling to bleed a 1993 liberty after installing a timing kit , ended up drilling the thermostat as per your advise solved the problem for now many thanks. Gordon
The spill free funnel is one of the best tools I have.
Awesome video. Still not getting heat in the car, but thermostat guage showing too hot. Might just try that holes in the thermostat trick
Let me know how it goes!
@@briansmobile1 after putting the holes in the thermostat, I've noticed a lot of totally random and drastic fluctuations in the temperature gauge while driving. it seems to spike when slowing and idling after going highway speeds. That may have something to do with air in the system, which would be getting in through a faulty head gasket I assume?
4:19 - I wouldn't say air dissapates heat quickly. Things heat and cool faster via conduction as opposed to convection, so I reckon it's more accurate to say air does not transfer heat as well as fluid.
Thanks for your video though - good explaination of the phenomenon I hear the subaru guys complaining about all the time in the dealership I'm working at now.
Thanks heaps for showing all the trick to get the forester back on the road cheers
I replace my rad, my water pump/timing belt and my thermostat twice and still the same problem. Then I found this video and it saved my car and my mental health!!
Non related question: I need a new catalytic converter but I don’t want to change it. Is there a way to bypass the sensor to get the check engine light to go off? Thanks for your help!
Brian, what's the year and model of your Subaru?
Mateo Carlos Thanks for getting back. It’s an 03 forester, 2.5l The coil went on it it years ago and the raw fuel going through must’ve messed the catalytic up. About $1000 to replace it.
Brian I always love your videos.... having a sense of humor is always necessary especially working on Subarus. LOL... again your videos are always extremely helpful keep up the good work.
Thanks Mike- I sure appreciate it!
Hola briansmobile1, tengo un subaru outbac 2003 2.5 ej251 y hace unas semana cambie el refrigerante y termostato. Lo conducir en cuidad y nunca dio signos de calentamiento hasta que un fin de semana que salí de viaje a la playa con peso en el porta equipaje y todos sus asientos ocupado y en rectas no tena inconvenientes pero al momento de tomar un pendiente larga y pronunciada comenzaba a subir la temperatura. busque un taller y sacaron el termostato "este tenia mucha silicona". después de no tuve problemas al regresar a mi hogar. Pero ahora se viene el invierno a mi país (Chile) y se demora en tomar temperatura de trabajo por lo que tiene mas consumo de bencina. Voy a intentar de hacer 3 orificios al termostato (es el mismo termostato que muestras en el video) y espero solucionar este problema. No veo burbujas ni intercambio de refrigerante/aceite en sus respectivos sistemas. Saludos.
Can the air that strapped blow off the top radiator hose that's what I'm running into
WOW I watched 3 other same subject videos. I did the drill method shown at the end. Now I get some more miles cheaply. THANKKKKSSSS
😂
LOL at the possible side effects of drilling holes in thermostat
I just removed the damn thing, but this idea rocks, like a failsafe. Just hope i didn't kill my head gaskets with the overheating.
Yeah a lot of cooling systems are like that you can buy a vacuum tool and it will suck the coolant up and remove all air
My 07 Tribeca is back at the dealer for the third time, originally for a head gasket job with that classic head gasket failure you named in another video, gasses in the water jacket but no water in the cylinder.. I notice you don't have any videos on the 6cyl EZ30 engine.
Hi Brian, thanks for the video on burping the cooling system and the info on the thermostat modification. I have a '99 Outback that I bought a few months ago with over 300,000 klms on the clock, it has had an intermittent overheating issue since purchase, I replaced the water pump and thermostat and fitted a timing belt kit and the overheating settled down for a time. This last week or two it started playing up again, I found your burping video and tried that with no success so I drilled some holes in the t/stat and have done over 200 klms this weekend with out any issues in temperatures around the mid 20 degrees C. I do believe that I may have a blown head gasket because I have one spark plug with a slight green ting to it.
Thanks again for your helpful videos.
Regards...Terry (Mechanix) from Tasmania, Australia.
awesome trick I did it and it worked also seems my oil leak stopped. Glad I found this video.
terry costello ‘
Thanks brian ive been enjoying your videos for a while. I watched a video a few weeks ago about drilling sheet metal or thin plastic brass ect... without it being drawn up by the bit . The guy in the video said to purposely dull the bit first.
Thank you for making this video and taking the time to explain the vertical vs horizontal thermostat issue. My '98 Forester has the vertically oriented kind. :( Btw, be careful testing thermostats (that you are actually going to use) with a blowtorch rather than hot water because you could mess up the heat treatment of the spring. Thanks again.
I have 2005 Impreza that we changed the radiator and thermostat and car will only overheat if driving over 55mph...any ideas? Has passed the pressure test and chemical test for head gasket problem. Has sit for 2 plus hours at idle and no issues and fans work. Gauge is in line with temp on scanner. Then driven almost 100 miles on highway and interstate. For me never went over halfway or 204 degrees. Gave it back to my son and 20 minutes to 30 minutes of driving, not even 20 miles down interstate and overheated on him. Never overheated on other 2 people who drove it after the initial fix. He is in drive, I thought maybe he had it in a lower gear. Now it overheated again and is leaking. I don’t know where from cause the car is 100 miles away from me now. He let it cool down to finish driving home after new radiator cap put on ( just to make sure other new one wasn’t bad) and he said if he kept it under 55 that he was fine. I drove the car at 75-80 miles an hour for 10 miles before doing 70 for 30 miles and no problems. Any ideas please hit me up!
love your channel, you have helped me more than a few times with my and my family's Subaru repairs.
I have 2003 Subaru Legacy that over heats after ten minutes....I did the head gaskets with turbo head gaskets 60,000 miles ago..... I changed the radiator and thermastat and cap and it still over heats... it pushes all the coolant to the overflow...the thing is if i I m on the gas the car wont over heat I can climb a mountain no problems for 15 minutes. Its only when i m off the gas or at low engine speeds.
You most likely have air accumulated around the thermostat spring. You can solve this by drilling an air by-pass hole, burping it as shown, or getting a waterpump and water inlet/thermostat housing & lower radiator hose that are of updated design. (they bolt up to older cars too)
Lol, great video btw briansmobile1! @ 6:18 you forgot to put "Headache leading to possible migraine", "high blood pressure", "loss of appetite/money" on that list, lol ^.^
Hi! Don't you have to turn your heater on full blast to open the thermostat and get the bubbles out as I hear sloshing in my dash and feel the bubbles are up there.
I subscribed. My brother worked for Subaru. He's in the states and I'm in Puerto Rico now. I bought a 97 Subaru legacy outback and had to do the head gasket seal....didn't got water pump but, I did got a new thermostat. Just got the car today and the temperature thin on the dashboard is not working when it was working perfectly before. I don't trust the mechanic, sometimes cheap costs more. Could I be a fuse ? Or do you recomend to do the burp thing? Please help😥
Brian, you are freaking Rock Star brother! Thank you so much for doing all this and sharing your knowledge. I definitely don't have the do-re-me or gumption to take on the head gasket right now, so this is a precious piece of advice. Thank you again.
Good video and timely. I burped my 95 legacy and im still getting water rushing noises through the heater core. Not sure what it could be. I dont appear to have coolant loss only hair loss at this stage, worrying how to fix it.
I have a 98 subaru outback ej25d dohc and it over heats, when ever i take off the radiator cap off water/coolant spills from it. I dont think its a head gasket issue or etc. Theirs no leaks none. Just got done replacing the thermostat and was flushing my coolant system, thats when it started to spill water/coolant from the radiator.
I have a 94 Accord that began to overheat following timing-component change (done by me). Will that funnel work if it's NOT the head gasket? It got worse so I think it IS the head gasket but not 100% sure. Also I believe the reason the thermostat opened is you heated the sensing-bulb inside the spring...I've had the sensing bulb fail on one before...
Hey so this was very helpful but I wanted to ask when if it just keep bubbling
Hey Brian great video it really helped me out i drilled the 3 holes in the thermostat and now no more overheating.(hoo ray)
Now when i'm on the expressway the temperature gauge stays closer to the Cold than the normal operating temp
I'm thinking of maybe putting another thermostat in and only drilling 2 holes instead of 3.
1997 subaru legacy outback 175,000 miles
Thank You
Amigo, como te fue con los 2 agujeros? pretendo hacer los mismo en mi subaru outback, pero pienso que tres tomara mucho tiempo en calentarse y vivo al sur de Chile y en invierno hace mucho frió. Saludos
The list for consequences for drilling your thermostat at 6:22 really had me laughing. Yes, yes, logical as I read, and then the jokes, but true answers. Thanks Brian! I remembered to like the video at that point. :)
DE Nichols "
mine too i just did the TB and WP shoot my temperature is passed 3/4 mark. Good video let me try it i got the burping kit.
Thank you for the video and very informative. I have a 2013 Subaru outback, my antifreeze is leaking from the top holes, hitting the fan and going everywhere. I tighten the ring around the holes and replace the holes and replace the fan is self the radiator valve still have the same problem you have any suggestions please
I just changed my timing belt and water pump on a 2007 Legacy, SOHC 2.5, all went well until I turned on.
I heard a loud screech and smoke came billowing out from water pump area. Now the temperature gauge stays at 1/4 instead of half. I’m getting heat from driver side vents in car and not the passenger side...🤦🏻♂️
Thanks Brian! Helped alot.
Brian, I had to replace my radiator due to a leak so in the process I replace the hoses and the thermostat. Now I'm having one hell of a time getting the car to burp and quit overheating. I ended up getting a radiator bucket, I can't tell you how many hours I've ran the car, revved the car up to 3000 or 4000 RPM, I've done everything I can think of and it still overheats if I don't run 50mph and no faster, with the heater on full blast. It's not a head gasket, it's nothing else, the car was fine before I had to replace the radiator. What more can I do to get this system purged??
I'm having this exact issue please tell me you fixed it someone help me please
1997 Subaru legacy 2.2. Same freaking thing happened to me! Any suggestions?
@longducdong
Make sure thermostat opens at the temp printed on it. Put it in a pan of water heated up to just above the printed temp.
Check that the new rad is not slightly blocked & has good flow. Lastly put your lips around the coolant tank(inlet mounted) & blow into it whilst pinching closed the expansion tank(rad mounted) hose, that can help burp it.
Hi dear friend... Nice vídeo!
Today I found this myself, if you are getting air on your cooling sistem.... It could be a BAD (old) radiador CAP, in my situation,... my Forest have 02 CAPS.
My Forest xt 2.5 2010, just started getting fluido back to the small tank (reservatory coolant)
Installed new cap, problem solved.!
😁
Hey Brian, On vehicles that tend to be problem childs I have put a single 1/8" hole in t-stat flange before to aid in bleeding and never had any negative effects form it. I think the technical name for the "bubbler" is a jiggle pin ;) (just some useless knowledge) Any how an the early 00's soobies do you remove the bleed hole on the top of the passenger side of the radiator to let air out or pull a hose off the throttle body to let air out? Just curious. --Eric O.
Do we subscribe to all the good channels together? :)
DE Nichols
One sarcastic reply suggestion: can you subscribe to your own channel? ;)
I'm thinking we do...
Vastly underrated comment. Thanks Eric.
Genius mechanical aptitude
I bought a 2003 Subaru Legacy with 93k on it that had a blown head gasket. The garage I bought it from machined and replaced gaskets, spark plugs and timing belt. A few weeks later it was overheating after 10 minutes of driving. Garage replaced the thermostat with OEM one and a new radiator because temperature was not consistent across it. Now the car has been good except that the temperature gauge climbs up when idling at stops. As soon as I start driving again, it goes back down to normal temp. The fans do run also. Does this sound like it needs burped or water pump issue since everything else has been messed with already? Your post are great!
check waterpump
Last winter 2017 I had head gasket, water pump replaced on my 2004 Impreza Outback Sport. Those colder months car was fine until recently when we had our first two days in a row of near 100 degrees temp. Car never had overheating issues even before head gasket job. Therefore I was initially surprised in stop and go traffic when I'd came to a stop and glancing over to dash gauges I was horrified that temp was hoovering like 3/4 up past normal into hot range. I immediately turned off ac and slowly the temp backed down. When car is going down the road even with ac on it's fine but only goes up in stop and go and at idle. I've often wondered if the head gasket job particularly water pump was to blame being I went through five or more years without any issues during hot summer months. Kinda made the connections. Now seeing your video I realized perhaps dude that performed job probably let in air during installation. Will perform this step to see if problem is resolved. Thanks
Just did headgaskets on a 2004 outback with EJ25 NA engine. Car runs great but still has some issue with gurgling sounds at heater cored. We had flushed and reverse flushed the heater core, block passages, and put in a brand new radiator.. Still having an issue. Seems fine for awhile, but then temp starts creeping up to 215, lower hose cold. We ran without the thermostat to get the car home and the temp stayed a constant 130 degrees with 45 degree ambient temperature. When we had the heads off, the block read just over the limit for flatness. Could it really be that this didn't allow a new gasket to seal correctly? No vapor from tailpipe, no seepage anywhere, so could it be that we are blowing combustion gasses into the coolant passages?
Brian, My daughter has a 95 Subarau Legacy Outback and we recently replaced the radiatior, all the hoses, and the thermostat and it continues to overheat. There are no signs what so ever that are any head gasket issues. We have also burped the system numerous times. I don't know what else it could be?
Great video and thanks for it. I just bought a 2003 Legacy L and it has the sloshing sound and sometimes it does fine with heating and then next min (when sitting still) it starts to get hot. Would this burping issue be there if the head gasket has already been replaced? Thanks for your time and assistance
Hey @briansmobile1 , first off just wanted to thank you for making your videos. You've helped me on a ton of repairs/maintenance over the years!
On to my main question, I have a 2000 Legacy GT and recently replaced the timing, water pump, & thermostat. Was getting mild overheating in really hot weather sitting in traffic and came to find out it was due to my fans not kicking on. Read temps reporting from ECU vs the gauge and they would never go above like 176. Swapped temp sensor and now my problem is opposite. My gauge IMMEDIATELY goes to middle when I cold start the vehicle and then gradually just pegs to as hot as it will go after the car running for maybe 2-3 minutes tops. ECU read out from OBD II almost never goes about 195. While driving the car it heats up in traffic but fans kick on when they should and drops it down to 194 as it should. Although when driving consistently it continues to heat, got it to 212 before turning on heat to cool it down. Any ideas on my issue? Any help is MUCH appreciated, thank you!!!
also got a check engine light p0483 which is cooling relay system
my 93 legacy has an air vent screw in the rad which prevents any excess air, no burping needed for me
Brian you are a good man, a bit cheeeeeky,,, you must have some Australian in you. Am trying to take all this seriously and reading your stuff only to find your Australian style jokes. Your comment and advice help me identify a major problem with my Subi 2001 forester. My top hose was very hot yet the bottom was cold. and my fan would not switch on.... must have a massive air lock or something else...... Thank you very very much from Lismore NSW Australia.
Hello Brian awesome information thank you!! I have a 2013 Subie Crosstrek Limited with 74,000 miles. I read i n the manual to service cooling system every 8 to 10 years/80,ooo to 100,00 miles. I still have all the OEM cooling hoses. My engine went in for a valve spring re=call and they told me they replaced the coolant. I feel I should replace ALL the coolant hoses, both thermostats and new coolant. TIA for any info help you can give me, PLEASE??
Most the factory hoses are fine to 100k-120k I'd leave it alone for now if it was mine.
@@briansmobile1 THANK YOU so very much!!
Thanks for this video. helped me burp my H6, esp with 180 degree thermostat!
HI Brian, I have a Subaru Tribeca 2011 3.6L, changed head gasket 1 year ago and started overheating, fixed radiator and thermostat, car still overheating. Still have to try your solution.
If this doesn't work, try putting a bubbler hole in the plate of your thermostat that can pass air as an experiment for compression gasses leak into the coolant in small volume. The gasses can accumulate around the t-stat spring and insulate it to not open. The hole farts it through so hot coolant can reach and affect the bi-metal spring to open the thermostat. I've done this for broke college kids in Utah with a lot of success, but it does cause slower warm up to op. temp, but not too bad.
Thanks so much Your video saved me Million Thanks !!!!
Have you ever had the bucket overflow? I had it happen twice and it can get really messy. I keep a shop vac standing buy just in case I tries to happen again. I try to keep it about 1/4 full and add fluid as needed as it sucks it in, but sometimes when I assume an air bubble flash steams the level rises really quickly and overflows. I've also thought about making a bigger bucket.
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks for the tricks to get past potential head gasket leaking into the coolant. I picked up an abused beater 2004 Subaru desperate to get out of rentals and not wanting to spend any more on the car than absolutely necessary because a dry front diff and burnt tranny fluid indicates abuse and there is no reason for that with todays access to info for a perfectly healthy guy. I have to re- pull the housing and thermostat and see if I over tightened and cracked the housing, did the gasket not reseal despite trying to clean it, and\ or did I bend the thermostat flange popping out the guts to run without the spring and test if the system was otherwise working.
Are you located near Baltimore or have any contacts here?
I have that same funnel, it works great.
Upset stomach lmfao!!!
Sweet video! Thanks for showing us!
Could I have a blown head gasket even if there is no signs of coolant contamination ?
yes check you coolant for combustion gas with the test kit
My 2003 forester has a bleed valve between motor and firewall to the heater,
Go to a radiator shop and pay for their skill
What if I have two thermostats in my Outback 3.0? A large one and a small one? Should I do it on both, or just on the one connected to the water pump?"
Why did subaru put the thermostat on the inflow side instead of the outflow side like all other engines?