I had an identical experience with my 2012 Outback and I'm telling you just replace the head gasket . Everything your car has gone through down to the radiator outlet being broken off is identical. I tried to make it work with conditioner and it would just gradually over-pressurize the system and push small amounts of coolant into the expansion tank which would eventually overflow and leave too little coolant in the system. I ended up using a turkey baster to move coolant back in to the radiator before it overflowed every week or so. I will say if you're going to do it this way I'd highly recommend not putting an excessive load on the engine while driving. It caused my expansion to fill up very quickly. I could make do as long as I kept my revs as low as possible. But I absolutely guarantee the head gasket is blown. My father-in-law was convinced I was wrong about that because the tests came back negative on everything but I had a gut feeling it was head gaskets. Wasn't until it left my wife stranded due to overheating that I finally confirmed it was the head gaskets 100%
stop i’m having same symptoms for 2012 legacy 2.5. i bought it used, and the head gaskets have already been replaced in its lifetime. the first time it overheated it was because my ECU temp sensor went out. i hear sloshing in my heater core whenever turning on or off my car, so i’m praying a coolant flush and proper burp will solve my problem. My oil looks clean and I have no smoke coming out of my exhaust. Subaru ✨💋
it has 132,000 miles and made it from Georgia to Colorado! The times it has overheated it’s been parked and treated immediately. But the first time was SO SCARY because my car does not have a temperature gauge, and the only way i can know if my car is too hot is with the ECU sensor, so I have no idea how hot or how long it was too hot so sososososososososo subaru
@@GelatoSnipes I feel like I'm being stalked. My problems literally arose during a road trip from Georgia to Colorado. We got to Colorado and spent pretty much the entire "vacation" trying to figure out what was wrong with the car. We limped back home driving with as little load on the engine as possible and using the turkey baster. We suspect the elevation change may have exacerbated the problem
@@jason8841 NO WAY! that is so weird that we took the same trip and have the same issues. I think it has to do with the altitude change as well, apparently you're supposed to have the cars computer adjusted for that... I'm going to do a coolant flush and burp. if the car is still overheating i'm going to do a head gasket leak test, and if that comes clean ill be replacing my coolant system lmao. did you take the upper route through Illinois or the lower route, i went the lower and had a lot of trouble with the windy mountain roads
Same thing happened to my 2011 legacy. Replaced the radiator and 2 years later the car is still going. But my car never overheated, I was lucky enough to be very close to known mechanic.
1 year ago my engine almost overheated on my 2010 OB. I think it did but maybe not because I had the temp light flashing blue and red, solid red, solid blue, flashing blue and red again.. Some coolant line broke and I got my car towed to my mechanic and he did some welding and whatnot.. 1 year later and the car is running awesome still and I actually am about to do a timing belt/water pump job and change the valve cover gaskets (spark plug gaskets too) even adjust my valves since im very, very close to hitting 200 000 miles.
My 2011 Outback radiator failed just as this car, but AFTER replacing the head gaskets about 2 yrs/30k miles ago. Robert confirmed the plastic tanks are suspect from age and heat cycling, so it's best to change out the radiator after 10 yrs or when doing the head gaskets. See the next video where Robert changes out the radiator. Note that when the radiator breaks off pieces, you should remove the thermostat and back flush the block to ensure you have all the little pieces out before reassembly! Now I know Robert always says to use the OEM parts, but as the OE, made in USA radiator seems suspect at best, I went with the DENSO replacement from RockAuto at about 1/3 ($110 vs $333) the retail from Subaru. Appears to be at least equal quality to OEM and fits perfectly.
On my 08’ Outback I started with replacing the radiator, thermostat, hose & clamps. All to try to protect against head gasket issues. Plastic radiators don’t last as long and do get brittle.
I wish someone would make radiator inlet/outlet repair kits with some kind of seal that only needs like a small portion of the tube left to slide over and it necks back down to original size. Would be a big money saver.
The top neck usually breaks off did on our 2010 outback radiator was only like $89 on eBay and they get dirty in between the condenser and the radiator especially with that kind of mileage I spent 14 years in a radiator shop I know a little
This is currently happening on my 2012 OB 2.5. Exactly, blown off hose, broken radiator, overflowing expansion tank, rock hard and very hot top hose, cold and soft lower hose. I have to drive the car very conservatively and move coolant back into the radiator every other day. Two shops have told me it’s not the HG, but I too am positive that’s the issue. New radiator, new OEM cap, new hoses, new thermostat, new cooling fan relays, new expansion tank hose. Still will overheat if I drive over 50 miles.
Its the head gasket... Also replace your timing belt and tensioner. Mine was so worn out the water pump could spin by hand with the tension on the belt.
As an owner of an '11 outback 2.5i .... I can't watch. Got scammed on the purchase with a drilled out thermostat hiding a blown gasket. 1 used engine later I love my "Shitbox Sheila"
honestly at this point i would just pull the engine and do the HGs - (you gotta know deep down they are probably on their way out...). no sense over pressuring a brand new rad and wasting a bunch of super coolant.
Has the upper hose spout fail on the radiator on my 2012 at 105k miles. Plastic was so brittle, I could break it between my fingers. Replaced at mechanic along with due for timing belt and water pump. So far, so good 🤞Got lucky that wife noticed steam over the hood and called me before it overheated.
The problem is most likely air in the coolant system. When the upper radiator hose blew the first time, it allowed air in the system. Put it all back together and bleed the lines. Should be good to go after that.
Had the exact same things happen on a 2012 Outback 2.5. Blew off the upper radiator hose on the interstate under load. Thought it was the thermostat not opening. The problem was intermittent. When it would overheat the bottom hose was compressable upper hose rock hard. After replacing the thermostat (be sure to use a Subaru thermostat there is a big difference in the aftermarket ones) all seemed good until the same overheat happened again. In the end pulled the engine and on the block there was a small spot the size of a pencil eraser where you could see the original machining marks (so it was a low spot) took 400 grit sand paper on a block and carefully sanded the entire surface until that mark was gone. Also had the heads resurfaced at a machine shop. Put in a new radiator as well. It's been 9500 miles and no problem since. The car had 138,000 when this happened 2 months ago.
i have a temp issue when climbin any sort of incline but no tests show HG failure.. i flushed the rad once an it improved alot, i found some sort of stop leak in the rad aswell, so i suspect a blocked radiator is my main issue. the over heat only goes to 3/4 an i cant get it any hotter if i try? but it can be just a long steady fast or slo climb an under load in Drive it goes up. in 3 3500rpm it doesnt do it as quick but still does. anyway. as a runner its ok, new radiator next
Try a new radiator cap. After doing the head gaskets on my wife's 2010 forester the new upper hose was swelling due to expansion pressure and with a new cap it now works perfectly. Apparently the old one was sticking closed (hardened rubber?).
Did you ever figure out the problem got fixed after changing the radiator ? I have exactly the same problem . Got new radiator and after driving 30 miles the hose came off with pressure too
Totally off-topic but I thought I'd bring it up. I get about 3yrs give or take out of my coil pack. The latest one was dying fast and I replaced it today. Interestingly the part supplier's database had a warning associated with this product: the ECU of 2ng gen Foresters like mine (2002) gradually damages the coil pack (no doubt this reduced the part warranty). When I disconnected the leads from the coil pack I noticed that the front two conductors were discoloured from overheating while the back two were still a shiny brass/gold colour. And the ignition lead for the front passenger's side was almost welded to the plug - it was amazing. Externally I couldn't see much difference between the plugs (Bosch platinums) but anyway, replaced coil pack, ignition leads, plugs - runs beautifully now. Oh: prior symptoms was misfiring under acceleration or load (e.g. going up a hill). Idling was fine.
Good luck with the radiator price on the dealership! It's super expensive! When the time came to change my radiator, I went aftermarket and so far so good.
I'm curious why you wouldn't forgo the coolant conditioner and just get an all-metal radiator. I've owned a 2002 WRX since it was new, and 3 radiators have failed at the junction of the plastic tanks and the metal core. From what I've read, the conditioner is supposed to delay that, but maybe I'm wrong? I went with a Koyo radiator most recently (no conditioner), and so far, so good.
I just had the same problem, but I lucked out and seen what it was right away. I did a temporary fix by JB welding a ring of wire about an eighth inch from the end of the pipe and I was barely able to wrestle the hose over it. I actually had to apply a little heat to soften it before I could get it on. Then I used a regular hose clamp with the worm gear screw and made it very tight. So far, so good. What I wanted to ask is, my 2012 Outback is a 6 speed manual, so there is no cooling lines for the CVC. Now when I buy a new radiator and it has the fittings for the CVC lines, can I just leave them open? Or is there a specific radiator for the manual transmission model?
Just use a spill free funnel to check for head gasket leaks. Let her run for 15-20 minutes and if you still have consistent bubbles coming up, it's toast
I've got 2012 outback I can't see anything leaking and have no symptoms except for the coolant reservoir goes from the full line to the low line over about 8500 miles. Car has 129k Thoughts?
Dear Mr.SUBARU1387 2010 subaru outback premium 2.5i engine. 78,500. Baby blue exterior, black interior. Clean inside and out. Texas blue title. Hit me up and replace your brother's car.
It would be nice if you would discuss the thermo control valve issues that the ‘19 and up Subarus have, causing overheating, no hvac, etc. it’s such a serious problem that is looking like a class action lawsuit is being drafted. Do you work for Subaru and the reason why you won’t discuss this issue? Just curious.
MrSubaru1387: Have you ever done a video covering the grinding noise that some WRXs experience when decelerating in-gear from ~35mph? I've searched this topic multiple times. The consensus by internet randoms seems to be that it's just an 'operating as designed' quirk, but I've never come across an explanation from anyone with verifiable bonafides. Even if that noise is 'operating as designed', it would sure be more comforting to know the exact cause of the noise. Mine is a 5-speed 2014. Best example I can find on TH-cam: th-cam.com/video/hC9kM_HRDBo/w-d-xo.html
Radiators with plastics in crirtical areas where it should not be . . . great? Just one of many hand grenades waiting to go off . . . All the fanatical maint. in the world is not going to overcome so many cheap oem factory parts. How much do you think the Dealer would have charged some single mom with 3 kids to do this repair . . . which never should have happened. The new RU's are no better either. What person in their right mind . . . .
Koyorad, Denso, or Nissens will come close to OEM Calsonic quality. The Subaru part is about 60-120 more than those options if you shop around. MrSubaru loves OEM and I can't blame him.
I’ve had some really bad experience with aftermarket radiators except Koyorad. Plus Mr Subaru Gets a wholesale discount so it probably makes sense for him to just get an OEM one.
I literally just had this experience this past weekend on the highway. Keep us posted!
I had an identical experience with my 2012 Outback and I'm telling you just replace the head gasket . Everything your car has gone through down to the radiator outlet being broken off is identical. I tried to make it work with conditioner and it would just gradually over-pressurize the system and push small amounts of coolant into the expansion tank which would eventually overflow and leave too little coolant in the system. I ended up using a turkey baster to move coolant back in to the radiator before it overflowed every week or so. I will say if you're going to do it this way I'd highly recommend not putting an excessive load on the engine while driving. It caused my expansion to fill up very quickly. I could make do as long as I kept my revs as low as possible. But I absolutely guarantee the head gasket is blown. My father-in-law was convinced I was wrong about that because the tests came back negative on everything but I had a gut feeling it was head gaskets. Wasn't until it left my wife stranded due to overheating that I finally confirmed it was the head gaskets 100%
Came to say the same thing. 2012, 188k miles, exact same symptoms. Even down to the broken rad outlet.
stop i’m having same symptoms for 2012 legacy 2.5. i bought it used, and the head gaskets have already been replaced in its lifetime. the first time it overheated it was because my ECU temp sensor went out. i hear sloshing in my heater core whenever turning on or off my car, so i’m praying a coolant flush and proper burp will solve my problem. My oil looks clean and I have no smoke coming out of my exhaust. Subaru ✨💋
it has 132,000 miles and made it from Georgia to Colorado! The times it has overheated it’s been parked and treated immediately. But the first time was SO SCARY because my car does not have a temperature gauge, and the only way i can know if my car is too hot is with the ECU sensor, so I have no idea how hot or how long it was too hot so sososososososososo subaru
@@GelatoSnipes I feel like I'm being stalked. My problems literally arose during a road trip from Georgia to Colorado. We got to Colorado and spent pretty much the entire "vacation" trying to figure out what was wrong with the car. We limped back home driving with as little load on the engine as possible and using the turkey baster. We suspect the elevation change may have exacerbated the problem
@@jason8841 NO WAY! that is so weird that we took the same trip and have the same issues. I think it has to do with the altitude change as well, apparently you're supposed to have the cars computer adjusted for that... I'm going to do a coolant flush and burp. if the car is still overheating i'm going to do a head gasket leak test, and if that comes clean ill be replacing my coolant system lmao. did you take the upper route through Illinois or the lower route, i went the lower and had a lot of trouble with the windy mountain roads
Same thing happened to my 2011 legacy. Replaced the radiator and 2 years later the car is still going. But my car never overheated, I was lucky enough to be very close to known mechanic.
1 year ago my engine almost overheated on my 2010 OB. I think it did but maybe not because I had the temp light flashing blue and red, solid red, solid blue, flashing blue and red again.. Some coolant line broke and I got my car towed to my mechanic and he did some welding and whatnot.. 1 year later and the car is running awesome still and I actually am about to do a timing belt/water pump job and change the valve cover gaskets (spark plug gaskets too) even adjust my valves since im very, very close to hitting 200 000 miles.
My 2011 Outback radiator failed just as this car, but AFTER replacing the head gaskets about 2 yrs/30k miles ago. Robert confirmed the plastic tanks are suspect from age and heat cycling, so it's best to change out the radiator after 10 yrs or when doing the head gaskets. See the next video where Robert changes out the radiator. Note that when the radiator breaks off pieces, you should remove the thermostat and back flush the block to ensure you have all the little pieces out before reassembly!
Now I know Robert always says to use the OEM parts, but as the OE, made in USA radiator seems suspect at best, I went with the DENSO replacement from RockAuto at about 1/3 ($110 vs $333) the retail from Subaru. Appears to be at least equal quality to OEM and fits perfectly.
"the DENSO replacement from RockAuto", great to know. That's the one I was eye balling. Ording it now along with the upper and lower hoses.
On my 08’ Outback I started with replacing the radiator, thermostat, hose & clamps. All to try to protect against head gasket issues. Plastic radiators don’t last as long and do get brittle.
Ru does this for a reason . . . They Love your money and seeing you In Pain.
Had a Scion xB acted exactly the same after working on that I love Subaru even more now 😂
Bummer. Looking forward to the repair. Good video 👍 👍
Dang. Good luck with that rebellious Subaru
I wish someone would make radiator inlet/outlet repair kits with some kind of seal that only needs like a small portion of the tube left to slide over and it necks back down to original size. Would be a big money saver.
Do it!
The top neck usually breaks off did on our 2010 outback radiator was only like $89 on eBay and they get dirty in between the condenser and the radiator especially with that kind of mileage I spent 14 years in a radiator shop I know a little
When it’s not one thing, it’s another 😂. That always happens to me when least expecting it 😂. Good 👍🏼 videos. Educational.
Cool , gotta just love an adventure under the hood. 😁
That same thing happened to my 245,000 mile (at the time) radiator, it just got too old and brittle to handle the 15-16 psi in the system and broke.
This is currently happening on my 2012 OB 2.5. Exactly, blown off hose, broken radiator, overflowing expansion tank, rock hard and very hot top hose, cold and soft lower hose. I have to drive the car very conservatively and move coolant back into the radiator every other day. Two shops have told me it’s not the HG, but I too am positive that’s the issue. New radiator, new OEM cap, new hoses, new thermostat, new cooling fan relays, new expansion tank hose. Still will overheat if I drive over 50 miles.
Its the head gasket... Also replace your timing belt and tensioner. Mine was so worn out the water pump could spin by hand with the tension on the belt.
Did the head gaskets blow
As an owner of an '11 outback 2.5i .... I can't watch. Got scammed on the purchase with a drilled out thermostat hiding a blown gasket. 1 used engine later I love my "Shitbox Sheila"
I cannot stand dishonest sellers. Piss me off so bad.
honestly at this point i would just pull the engine and do the HGs - (you gotta know deep down they are probably on their way out...). no sense over pressuring a brand new rad and wasting a bunch of super coolant.
This is the response some people need to hear.
That outback seems to be identical to the one I have now!
love ya vids mate, so much knowledge an its such a helpful channel. appreciate ya uploading. keep it up mate
Load the parts cannons!!!!!!!!!( i would running it with regular water and a new rad just to check the cooling system)
Has the upper hose spout fail on the radiator on my 2012 at 105k miles. Plastic was so brittle, I could break it between my fingers. Replaced at mechanic along with due for timing belt and water pump. So far, so good 🤞Got lucky that wife noticed steam over the hood and called me before it overheated.
The problem is most likely air in the coolant system. When the upper radiator hose blew the first time, it allowed air in the system. Put it all back together and bleed the lines. Should be good to go after that.
Same issue on my legacy 11, replaced the radiator, hose and clamps two weeks ago and still working without a problem.
My 2012 Outback brought me here, owned this car for 30 days 1700+ in repairs still the same issue.
Had the exact same things happen on a 2012 Outback 2.5. Blew off the upper radiator hose on the interstate under load. Thought it was the thermostat not opening. The problem was intermittent. When it would overheat the bottom hose was compressable upper hose rock hard. After replacing the thermostat (be sure to use a Subaru thermostat there is a big difference in the aftermarket ones) all seemed good until the same overheat happened again. In the end pulled the engine and on the block there was a small spot the size of a pencil eraser where you could see the original machining marks (so it was a low spot) took 400 grit sand paper on a block and carefully sanded the entire surface until that mark was gone. Also had the heads resurfaced at a machine shop. Put in a new radiator as well. It's been 9500 miles and no problem since. The car had 138,000 when this happened 2 months ago.
I just bought this exact car in May. This will be interesting
I will speculate that the radiator is clogged. Along with the plastic crumbling. Take the tanks off when you get it out.
i have a temp issue when climbin any sort of incline but no tests show HG failure.. i flushed the rad once an it improved alot, i found some sort of stop leak in the rad aswell, so i suspect a blocked radiator is my main issue.
the over heat only goes to 3/4 an i cant get it any hotter if i try? but it can be just a long steady fast or slo climb an under load in Drive it goes up. in 3 3500rpm it doesnt do it as quick but still does. anyway. as a runner its ok, new radiator next
Try a new radiator cap. After doing the head gaskets on my wife's 2010 forester the new upper hose was swelling due to expansion pressure and with a new cap it now works perfectly. Apparently the old one was sticking closed (hardened rubber?).
Did you ever figure out the problem got fixed after changing the radiator ? I have exactly the same problem . Got new radiator and after driving 30 miles the hose came off with pressure too
Totally off-topic but I thought I'd bring it up. I get about 3yrs give or take out of my coil pack. The latest one was dying fast and I replaced it today. Interestingly the part supplier's database had a warning associated with this product: the ECU of 2ng gen Foresters like mine (2002) gradually damages the coil pack (no doubt this reduced the part warranty). When I disconnected the leads from the coil pack I noticed that the front two conductors were discoloured from overheating while the back two were still a shiny brass/gold colour. And the ignition lead for the front passenger's side was almost welded to the plug - it was amazing. Externally I couldn't see much difference between the plugs (Bosch platinums) but anyway, replaced coil pack, ignition leads, plugs - runs beautifully now. Oh: prior symptoms was misfiring under acceleration or load (e.g. going up a hill). Idling was fine.
Yup . . . another oem hand grenade . . . Avoided
Good luck with the radiator price on the dealership! It's super expensive! When the time came to change my radiator, I went aftermarket and so far so good.
Sounds like a good call.
Could it be a leaking/failed water pump? Has that been ruled out?
I'm curious why you wouldn't forgo the coolant conditioner and just get an all-metal radiator. I've owned a 2002 WRX since it was new, and 3 radiators have failed at the junction of the plastic tanks and the metal core. From what I've read, the conditioner is supposed to delay that, but maybe I'm wrong? I went with a Koyo radiator most recently (no conditioner), and so far, so good.
i have a 2013 found oil in spark plugs when I changed them. About 120k. Had the head gasket replaced.
I’ve seen the same thing on hd radiators as well some other oems. I chalked it up to age
I went thru the same thing with my 2008 stated with overheating then one boom their goes the headgasket
I just had the same problem, but I lucked out and seen what it was right away. I did a temporary fix by JB welding a ring of wire about an eighth inch from the end of the pipe and I was barely able to wrestle the hose over it. I actually had to apply a little heat to soften it before I could get it on. Then I used a regular hose clamp with the worm gear screw and made it very tight. So far, so good.
What I wanted to ask is, my 2012 Outback is a 6 speed manual, so there is no cooling lines for the CVC. Now when I buy a new radiator and it has the fittings for the CVC lines, can I just leave them open? Or is there a specific radiator for the manual transmission model?
How long did it take for the dealership to get the radiator?
Just use a spill free funnel to check for head gasket leaks. Let her run for 15-20 minutes and if you still have consistent bubbles coming up, it's toast
Toast?? Lol just change the head gasket. You people are annoying
Subaru's first, son....all that other nonsense can wait
I've got 2012 outback I can't see anything leaking and have no symptoms except for the coolant reservoir goes from the full line to the low line over about 8500 miles. Car has 129k Thoughts?
Ugh. I do appreciate how you show when things don't go according to plan. Is it time to break out your Snap-On Ouija board to diagnose this one?
Hey i've always been curious, how hard is it to start out as a snap-on dealer?
With that many miles it was a matter of time before the radiator would leak somewhere. So a new one is insurance.
'09 outback. 2.5 manual
Is it possible the diff/tranny fluid be very dark, old looking after getting it changed 7 months ago?
I've got the same year 282k. Does the inboard CV boot take grease or fluid.
Does this Year on the inboard CV boot take grease or axle fluid
I had a question about 08 Subaru outback. Do you know if I exhaust bolts are m10 x1.25?
Can i put a wrx turbo engine in to a 2011 out back
Didn’t know Subaru and Polaris are fam.
This is what happened to my 2010 outback.😅
If it wasn't for bad luck your brotha wouldn't have know luck at all .
Dear Mr.SUBARU1387
2010 subaru outback premium 2.5i engine. 78,500. Baby blue exterior, black interior. Clean inside and out. Texas blue title. Hit me up and replace your brother's car.
any Texas spiders in it? 🤔
It would be nice if you would discuss the thermo control valve issues that the ‘19 and up Subarus have, causing overheating, no hvac, etc. it’s such a serious problem that is looking like a class action lawsuit is being drafted. Do you work for Subaru and the reason why you won’t discuss this issue? Just curious.
What an idiotic comment
MrSubaru1387: Have you ever done a video covering the grinding noise that some WRXs experience when decelerating in-gear from ~35mph? I've searched this topic multiple times. The consensus by internet randoms seems to be that it's just an 'operating as designed' quirk, but I've never come across an explanation from anyone with verifiable bonafides. Even if that noise is 'operating as designed', it would sure be more comforting to know the exact cause of the noise. Mine is a 5-speed 2014. Best example I can find on TH-cam: th-cam.com/video/hC9kM_HRDBo/w-d-xo.html
Time to L.S swap . Hehe
Sorry!
Radiators with plastics in crirtical areas where it should not be . . . great? Just one of many hand grenades waiting to go off . . .
All the fanatical maint. in the world is not going to overcome so many cheap oem factory parts.
How much do you think the Dealer would have charged some single mom with 3 kids to do this repair . . . which never should have happened.
The new RU's are no better either. What person in their right mind . . . .
No reason to put a Subaru radiator in there plenty of aftermarket radiators will work just fine.
Koyorad, Denso, or Nissens will come close to OEM Calsonic quality. The Subaru part is about 60-120 more than those options if you shop around. MrSubaru loves OEM and I can't blame him.
I’ve had some really bad experience with aftermarket radiators except Koyorad. Plus Mr Subaru Gets a wholesale discount so it probably makes sense for him to just get an OEM one.
@@forresttaylor2757 a denso is half the price on rock Auto
Used Koyorad replacement. I can't imagine it's much worse than OEM that failed at the plastic hose flange at 100k.
This video should of been 4 mins long. 6 mins wasted to start by repeating himself about how busy he's been.
I hate cars. They are evil, a necessary evil to be sure but just a pain in the ass.