Everytime I do brakes I watch a video just to refresh my memory so I don’t forget something small. By far the best one I’ve ever seen. I do it quite differently, but he’s so descriptive that it covers all the different ways you can do it.
Thanks for the video. It looks great. Tomorrow, I am showing my daughter how to change the brakes for the first time. Before we get her a car, she needs to know basic auto care. I had her watch this, and she says it looks very easy. It will be a great daughter, father time.
Love this! That's a great daddy-daughter project! I completely agree with you about showing this stuff to her and getting her to go hands on...nothing wrong with that at all. Enjoy that project!
I'm absolutely about that life! Enjoy the new QX60...I love my car. I will have more videos in the future for sure. Thanks for watching and stay safe as well.
Great thorough video. I like the way you explained everything, and gave recommendations. The only thing I didn’t hear you mention was pumping the brakes once installation was finished. Perhaps you did say it, but maybe I missed it. Definitely an important step before moving the vehicle to test the brakes. Like I said… Overall, great video. Thank you!
Thanks, I appreciate the great feedback. Also, you're right, that was not mentioned in the video, and definitely an important step. Thanks for catching that. I'll add that info to the video description.
Thank you very much for this video. I just changed the front brakes and rotors on my 2013 JX35 and with your video, it was really a great DIY project. I'll be tackling the rear in a few days.. Thanks again man.. I really appreciated this series.
That's great news. Happy to hear the you got the job done and my video was helpful! Hope the rear goes just as well. Thanks for watching and the great feedback.
@@NexusAuto Finally got around to doing the rear brake pads and rotors. Fantastic instructions. I recommend anyone watching this to have the confidence to do the job themselves and save themselves a lot of money. Thank You
Good , helpful video, many good points and didn't look like any important steps were missed or gone over very quickly.. will definitely look for your videos in future need... Thank you for taking the time to put this informative video together!!
No problem at all! Happy to hear the video was helpful and covered all the main points! Thanks for watching, and keep an eye out for future qx60/jx35 videos
I really enjoyed how you presented the brake job here! One thing I would like to see is your way of organizing your parts when you set them down, do you have a method you like to use when you do breakdown? Thank you so much for sharing!
Thanks, that is great feedback. Much appreciated. That is a great question. When you talk about tool arrangement, are you talking about how I break them down in the video, or how I break them down when I am about to do the work?
I agree. But I am seeing this happen more and more, especially on some Japanese cars. I am also used to seeing bigger bolts on the caliper bracket vs the caliper sliders, but I am seeing the trend of the same bolt size on a lot of Japanese cars too.
@@NexusAuto fyi there was a recall for some of brake caliper bracket bolts. Mine didn't fall underneath but I torque them to 91 ft. Lbs for the front per the pdf document.
Very thorough. I didn't notice you put any brake lube at the contact points of pads and caliper bracket. Why not? You should do the safety things rather than just tell the viewers: gloves and supporting the caliper so it doesn't fall on your hand. People follow examples and if you don't do it, they likely won't either. Better safe than injured. Do you ever use anti seize on the bolt threads or heads (contact points)?
Thanks for the great feedback and questions. I will answer them for you! 1. Some cars, very few, actually do not call for greasing the contact points between the pad and caliper bracket. This is one of those cars. The main thing is the caliper hardware. You will notice it at around the 23:30 mark. The pads themselves also have spring loaded hardware on the pads and on the caliper mounting hardware. The intent of these is to replace the grease by preventing binding. You can grease these if you want, but the spring loaded action is supposed to prevent direct contact between the pad and caliper hardware. 2. I agree with with the safety. A few people mentioned this exact thing in other videos (including showing me actually torqueing something, vs just giving torque numbers), so i started to show this more in my later videos. Very good point 3. I have not used ant seize on any modern car when it comes to the bolt threads or heads, and have not had an issue. I do put anti seize around hub rings, inside moving joints where bolts get seized (like trailing arm bolts), cars where offroading is consistently done, and other places. I used to do it with older cars, as seizing was far more common. But the tolerances between bolts like these days are close enough and cooling is efficient enough that I really don't get a problem anymore, even living in a rust-heavy area.
Do you know the part # for the front caliper sliders pins and rubber grommet pieces. 2014 QX60. One of my caliper slider pins were seized. I got it out, but tore the rubber grommet getting it out. I sanded the pin, put a lil grease on the pin and put it back in without the right size rubber grommet piece because I couldn’t find the right size. Used one for a Mariano. It’s a lil smaller but seems to work for now. I also replaced the hub bearing on that side, but since that isn’t making a noise I hear a sound like it at all speeds over 20mph but when I turn the wheel a little to the right it goes away. Brakes sound good and feel great. Car is rolling well. Maybe it’s the slider pin, maybe something with the alignment.
It's definitely possible that the noise you're hearing is the slider. It's good news you got it out too! For the rubber grommet, are you talking about the little one around the inside part of the slider pin itself, or the larger grommet that sits between the caliper and the caliper bracket? If you mean the one on the slider, you get it with the slider pin itself, and that OEM part number is 41134-3JA0A. If you happen to need the slider pin that doesn't have a rubber bit at the end, the part number is 41133-3JA0A. If you need the larger grommet on the outside the caliper, it comes in a whole seal kit, and that part number is D1120-3JA0A.
I noticed that the brake pads have a clip on one end. Does it matter which way the brake pads are installed, as long as the friction material is facing towards the rotor, and the curved side is towards the outside? I can see they can be installed with the clip up or down
Very nice video thank you! But i have a question.. i have an extended warranty, if i change the brakes and rotors by myself, could i lost/void this warranty?
Technically speaking, it shouldn't. No warranty (that I am aware of) covers brakes, as it is considered a 'wear-and-tear' part. However, beyond that, I couldn't tell you definitively, as warranties vary from country to country, and even from city to city sometimes. There are so many variances offered in these warranties. The best bet it to check with your warranty and see if it will be affect it in any way
@@NexusAuto If you have more videos for 2016 Infiniti QX60 it would be great - I just switched from VW to Infiniti and I was trying to see the Pros and Cons!
@@cotarlauroman1 I will definitely have more and more videos as I go. Right now, I have lighting ones, one on cleaning the throttle body, and some others. I have an Infiniti playlist set up, if you want to check that out. I will be putting more videos out in the future as well.
Yep they do. They are on the inner pad. The wear sensor is hook style, so it makes noise by making contact with the rotor. If the rotor is still good and doesn't need to be changed at that point, you should do the pads quickly, as those brake wear sensors will damage that inner facing side of the rotor.
Hi, if I want to machine and re-use both front and rear rotor disks then what should be the minimum thickness left on each wall layer of disk not including the gap between them or overall thickness (Don't know what they are called)? Thanks
I can only tell you the total thickness of the rotors, from end to end. For the front brakes, it is 26mm (1.024 inch) and for the rear brakes it is 14mm (.0551 inch)
Hard to say without testing myself, but it sounds like something is either not installed correctly. Could be wrong though. Since I can't test it, I'll just point out a few things to check 1. Make sure the rotor is seated flat against the hub and bearing. Even a small amount of rust.or dirt can cause the rotor to be off slightly, and can cause it to sit incorrectly 2. If you have the tools, check the new rotors for warpage. It's rare, but I have purchased rotors in the past that were bad/warped from the factory. 3. Make sure the pads are installed correctly (not at an angle) and can move freely on the sliders. 4. How was the caliper piston? Make sure it has not jammed inside the caliper, or has problems moving 5. Make sure the caliper pins can move freely. 6. Make sure the rims have been installed and torqued correctly. If the rims was not installed correctly, the rotor will not sit flat, and can cause vibration. 7. Check your bearing itself. I take it the bearing was fine before, but hey, sometimes it happens, and a bearing just happened to go bad after brake work. Rare, but can happen That's all I think of at this point. Hope it helps
Hi, I did changed front pads and Rotor but I think I have done a mistake and that is I add a film of regular grease on the surface of the metal guard behind/beside the rotors, would that cause issues, I am more scared of fire as I searched Rotors can get as hot as 500 celsius. Any comments please?
Hmm, it may not be an issue. What type of Grease is it? Does it have a heat rating? What do you mean by the metal guard behind/beside the rotor? Are you talking about the backing plate (faces inside, towards the engine)? It is true that the rotors get very hot, but they drop that temp very quickly as well. If anything, it is more likely to boil off the Grease, but anything is possible. Better to be safe. Let me know on the above
@@NexusAuto Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease, I contacted manufacturer, the only spec is "Drop temperature 260 Celsius, company has no info about Flash and fire point, but I would assume it should be around 100C above 260C + 360C. I am monitoring the rotor temp and it hasn't gone above 75C yest. Thanks
@Abbas Dastranj hmmm. If you're concerned about fire with that Grease, better to be safe I double checked with suppliers and it's true, I could not get a flash point. I got the dropping point of 500⁰F, so if the brakes get hot enough and liquefy, then it could run and maybe get on brake components. So even if it can withstand a higher temp, I can still affect the brakes in other ways.
@@NexusAuto Thank You, I measure rotor temp and never increase above 72C and the rotor temp should reach way above 500F to cause the guard temp to reach 500, I would clean it when installing winter tires.
You definitely want to use caliper lube , if possible. There are other greases that will work, but also others that will not. Some don't have high enough temp tolerances, not good with repelling moisture, or can cause rubber seals to swell. Other than playing a guessing game as to what will work and what won't, better to stick to caliper lube. Anything else, it would be at your own risk
I had my brake pads and rotors done about 50k miles ago. Starting to notice some brake noises. Can I just replace the pads or do I need to do rotors too? Thanks
There is a lot of factors that go in to determining if a rotor needs to be changed and most of it has to be seen. The previous brand of rotor, the materials in the rotors, if there is any ridges, wear, or damage, heats spots, etc. So it is ultimately hard to say. But generally speaking at 50k miles, I would say it would need to be changed. I have not seen a rotor exceed 100k miles (yet), and if you are changing to new pads, I doubt you will get another 50k miles off rotors, so it will likely eat through the new pads. I would say to change them to be safe,generally. But I do recommend checking them out first, to be sure.
You got it. I jack up at the rear diff, and at the front, there is a small spot in the middle where you can see the subframe(at least, on my car there is). I've recently recieved a few requests to make a video on jacking up the qx60. I hope to have it out tomorrow, if all goes well
It took me longer to do this car because of the filming (set up camera, angles, etc), but normally it takes me about an hour wheels up to wheels down to get pads and rotors done.
Hey did you happen to use OEM pads and rotors on your vehicle? Or did you go with a different brand? Curious as to how they are holding up since this video as well!
Hi Bik. I did not use OEMs on the front. I used Raybestos coated discs and Raybestos pads. So far, they have held up very well. The only thing is after a car wash, they brakes are very loud for the first couple of stops. I think it has to do with the coating Raybestos used. Aside from that, they are great!
Question for you Nexus: when & if you use OEM parts, where do you purchase them? Do you normally just stop at local dealership or do you utilize an online dealership that offers discounts? I normally try to buy all OEM parts and I use an online dealership that does offer discounts but they are limited to what they sell.....anyways thank you for your time and vids. I have subscribed 🤙
You could. The method I used to burnish the brakes is a very common one, but you can use the method you described. However, with newer ceramic brake pads, it takes a bit longer to wear in, so you'll have to do more of that back and forth motion. The one I described in the video is a more efficient way to get it done.
I don't see . you have a torque wrench you need to torque them at 62 pound and you need to tight them little more with the ratchet you didn't tight them to good
I gave the torque specs in the video. Why are you concerned if I used a torque wrench on my personal vehicle? That's my business honestly. And you do not need to do them a little more. It's not 62 ft lbs + some degrees like certain vehicles. 62 ft lbs, that's it. It's in the video. Enjoy
Everytime I do brakes I watch a video just to refresh my memory so I don’t forget something small. By far the best one I’ve ever seen. I do it quite differently, but he’s so descriptive that it covers all the different ways you can do it.
@@otherm-re8tu thanks! I appreciate that comment! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I love your presentation. I'm a first-timer and you have given me everything I need to get the job done. Thanks!
@@rousehouse7245 you're welcome! Thank you for that feedback, I appreciate it!
Thank you for helping me with the brakes on my car. Very informative and easy to understand.
@heathcliffvanpoo no problem at all. Happy to hear the videos were helpful!
Thanks for the video. It looks great. Tomorrow, I am showing my daughter how to change the brakes for the first time. Before we get her a car, she needs to know basic auto care. I had her watch this, and she says it looks very easy. It will be a great daughter, father time.
Love this! That's a great daddy-daughter project! I completely agree with you about showing this stuff to her and getting her to go hands on...nothing wrong with that at all. Enjoy that project!
Fantastic video great job, I want to try to change my own brakes for the first time you made it look pretty straight forward thanks.
@jaguarsbeast4020 thanks, I appreciate that! Great news to hear the video will be helpful!
Thanks so much DYI Life!!! I just purchased a QX60 Infiniti. Doing my brakes this morning. Stay Safe and well.
I'm absolutely about that life! Enjoy the new QX60...I love my car. I will have more videos in the future for sure. Thanks for watching and stay safe as well.
Great thorough video. I like the way you explained everything, and gave recommendations. The only thing I didn’t hear you mention was pumping the brakes once installation was finished. Perhaps you did say it, but maybe I missed it. Definitely an important step before moving the vehicle to test the brakes. Like I said… Overall, great video. Thank you!
Thanks, I appreciate the great feedback.
Also, you're right, that was not mentioned in the video, and definitely an important step. Thanks for catching that. I'll add that info to the video description.
Thank you. This video helped me save $600
That's awesome stuff! Money saved is a big win in my book. Glad to hear the video was helpful.
Thanks a lot for your comprehensive explanations. I saved a lot of money.
No problem at all. Appreciate the feedback
Hello my name is Luis and I just wanted to say I found your video very informative and helpful. I decided to subscribe to your channel. Thank you.
Perfect. Thank you very much for subscribing. And glad to hear the video was helpful.
Always use your videos for assistance. I own three Infinit models, G35, JX35 and M45. Great videos!
That's awesome news. Great to hear these videos help out. Thanks for watching and the great feedback
Thank you very much for this video. I just changed the front brakes and rotors on my 2013 JX35 and with your video, it was really a great DIY project. I'll be tackling the rear in a few days..
Thanks again man.. I really appreciated this series.
That's great news. Happy to hear the you got the job done and my video was helpful! Hope the rear goes just as well. Thanks for watching and the great feedback.
@@NexusAuto Finally got around to doing the rear brake pads and rotors. Fantastic instructions. I recommend anyone watching this to have the confidence to do the job themselves and save themselves a lot of money.
Thank You
@@dantavares1277 Yesss! Awesome news. Glad to hear the video helped get it done and you got it done no problem. Really appreciate the great feedback!
Oh my god, thank you. You just saved my sanity.
No problem at all. Glad the video helped out, and you are still sane!
Great job, those clips are tricky.
Thanks, much appreciated. I agree, those clips are a pain. Thanks for watching!
Good , helpful video, many good points and didn't look like any important steps were missed or gone over very quickly.. will definitely look for your videos in future need... Thank you for taking the time to put this informative video together!!
No problem at all! Happy to hear the video was helpful and covered all the main points! Thanks for watching, and keep an eye out for future qx60/jx35 videos
Great video. Easy to follow and understand.
Awesome, thanks for the great feedback!
Excellent video, sir.
Thanks, much appreciated.
Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
No problem at all!
Thank you for this sir! you are a money saver!
No problem at all. Glad to help! Every bit saved it that much better! Thanks for watching.
I really enjoyed how you presented the brake job here! One thing I would like to see is your way of organizing your parts when you set them down, do you have a method you like to use when you do breakdown? Thank you so much for sharing!
Thanks, that is great feedback. Much appreciated.
That is a great question. When you talk about tool arrangement, are you talking about how I break them down in the video, or how I break them down when I am about to do the work?
Thanks again
Good video. Interesting the front and the rear brake caliper bracket torque specs are 62 ft. Lbs. Usually the front is more.
I agree. But I am seeing this happen more and more, especially on some Japanese cars. I am also used to seeing bigger bolts on the caliper bracket vs the caliper sliders, but I am seeing the trend of the same bolt size on a lot of Japanese cars too.
@@NexusAuto fyi there was a recall for some of brake caliper bracket bolts. Mine didn't fall underneath but I torque them to 91 ft. Lbs for the front per the pdf document.
@@vtecaccord96 Thanks for the heads up. I will pull up the recall details and update the video description! Appreciate it!
@@NexusAuto you're very welcome!
thank u very much good video👍👍
No problem at all. Thanks for the great feedback!
Good video! Thank you.
No problem. Glad the video was helpful!
Very thorough. I didn't notice you put any brake lube at the contact points of pads and caliper bracket. Why not?
You should do the safety things rather than just tell the viewers: gloves and supporting the caliper so it doesn't fall on your hand. People follow examples and if you don't do it, they likely won't either. Better safe than injured.
Do you ever use anti seize on the bolt threads or heads (contact points)?
Thanks for the great feedback and questions. I will answer them for you!
1. Some cars, very few, actually do not call for greasing the contact points between the pad and caliper bracket. This is one of those cars. The main thing is the caliper hardware. You will notice it at around the 23:30 mark. The pads themselves also have spring loaded hardware on the pads and on the caliper mounting hardware. The intent of these is to replace the grease by preventing binding. You can grease these if you want, but the spring loaded action is supposed to prevent direct contact between the pad and caliper hardware.
2. I agree with with the safety. A few people mentioned this exact thing in other videos (including showing me actually torqueing something, vs just giving torque numbers), so i started to show this more in my later videos. Very good point
3. I have not used ant seize on any modern car when it comes to the bolt threads or heads, and have not had an issue. I do put anti seize around hub rings, inside moving joints where bolts get seized (like trailing arm bolts), cars where offroading is consistently done, and other places. I used to do it with older cars, as seizing was far more common. But the tolerances between bolts like these days are close enough and cooling is efficient enough that I really don't get a problem anymore, even living in a rust-heavy area.
Can you show where you jacked it up in the front?
I actually have a video to help out with that. Check it out at this TH-cam link
th-cam.com/video/nohx9RIgX7Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kDqMPfiZPVfx50Ge
Do you know the part # for the front caliper sliders pins and rubber grommet pieces. 2014 QX60. One of my caliper slider pins were seized. I got it out, but tore the rubber grommet getting it out. I sanded the pin, put a lil grease on the pin and put it back in without the right size rubber grommet piece because I couldn’t find the right size. Used one for a Mariano. It’s a lil smaller but seems to work for now. I also replaced the hub bearing on that side, but since that isn’t making a noise I hear a sound like it at all speeds over 20mph but when I turn the wheel a little to the right it goes away. Brakes sound good and feel great. Car is rolling well. Maybe it’s the slider pin, maybe something with the alignment.
It's definitely possible that the noise you're hearing is the slider. It's good news you got it out too!
For the rubber grommet, are you talking about the little one around the inside part of the slider pin itself, or the larger grommet that sits between the caliper and the caliper bracket?
If you mean the one on the slider, you get it with the slider pin itself, and that OEM part number is 41134-3JA0A.
If you happen to need the slider pin that doesn't have a rubber bit at the end, the part number is 41133-3JA0A.
If you need the larger grommet on the outside the caliper, it comes in a whole seal kit, and that part number is D1120-3JA0A.
I noticed that the brake pads have a clip on one end. Does it matter which way the brake pads are installed, as long as the friction material is facing towards the rotor, and the curved side is towards the outside? I can see they can be installed with the clip up or down
@@xcontreras hey there. Are you talking about the clip that points down? The low brake squeal sensor?
I like your video
Thanks, appreciate it! 👍🏾
Well done 👍
Thanks! Glad the video was useful!
I would followed your video step by step and doing it myself
@@Miracles895 awesome! Hope it goes well! Let me know how it goes after the job is done!
Very nice video thank you! But i have a question.. i have an extended warranty, if i change the brakes and rotors by myself, could i lost/void this warranty?
Technically speaking, it shouldn't. No warranty (that I am aware of) covers brakes, as it is considered a 'wear-and-tear' part. However, beyond that, I couldn't tell you definitively, as warranties vary from country to country, and even from city to city sometimes. There are so many variances offered in these warranties. The best bet it to check with your warranty and see if it will be affect it in any way
Good video...thanks
no problem. thanks for watching
@@NexusAuto If you have more videos for 2016 Infiniti QX60 it would be great - I just switched from VW to Infiniti and I was trying to see the Pros and Cons!
@@cotarlauroman1 I will definitely have more and more videos as I go. Right now, I have lighting ones, one on cleaning the throttle body, and some others. I have an Infiniti playlist set up, if you want to check that out. I will be putting more videos out in the future as well.
How about the brake wear sensors? Did your model have them and is there anything special to consider?
Yep they do. They are on the inner pad. The wear sensor is hook style, so it makes noise by making contact with the rotor. If the rotor is still good and doesn't need to be changed at that point, you should do the pads quickly, as those brake wear sensors will damage that inner facing side of the rotor.
Hi, if I want to machine and re-use both front and rear rotor disks then what should be the minimum thickness left on each wall layer of disk not including the gap between them or overall thickness (Don't know what they are called)?
Thanks
I can only tell you the total thickness of the rotors, from end to end. For the front brakes, it is 26mm (1.024 inch) and for the rear brakes it is 14mm (.0551 inch)
I have had the same vehicle but I recently changed those rotors but when hit the brakes my shakes and making some noises any suggestions
Hard to say without testing myself, but it sounds like something is either not installed correctly. Could be wrong though. Since I can't test it, I'll just point out a few things to check
1. Make sure the rotor is seated flat against the hub and bearing. Even a small amount of rust.or dirt can cause the rotor to be off slightly, and can cause it to sit incorrectly
2. If you have the tools, check the new rotors for warpage. It's rare, but I have purchased rotors in the past that were bad/warped from the factory.
3. Make sure the pads are installed correctly (not at an angle) and can move freely on the sliders.
4. How was the caliper piston? Make sure it has not jammed inside the caliper, or has problems moving
5. Make sure the caliper pins can move freely.
6. Make sure the rims have been installed and torqued correctly. If the rims was not installed correctly, the rotor will not sit flat, and can cause vibration.
7. Check your bearing itself. I take it the bearing was fine before, but hey, sometimes it happens, and a bearing just happened to go bad after brake work. Rare, but can happen
That's all I think of at this point. Hope it helps
thanks for putting one brake on and not showing how to put the other one on. very helpful
I mean, it's the EXACT same on the other side, just mirrored. It didn't need a video twice as long to show the exact same thing again
Hi, Do you know the OEM parts number of Front Brake pads?
I believe the OEM front brake pads are D1060-3JA0A
Hi, I did changed front pads and Rotor but I think I have done a mistake and that is I add a film of regular grease on the surface of the metal guard behind/beside the rotors, would that cause issues, I am more scared of fire as I searched Rotors can get as hot as 500 celsius.
Any comments please?
Hmm, it may not be an issue.
What type of Grease is it? Does it have a heat rating?
What do you mean by the metal guard behind/beside the rotor? Are you talking about the backing plate (faces inside, towards the engine)?
It is true that the rotors get very hot, but they drop that temp very quickly as well. If anything, it is more likely to boil off the Grease, but anything is possible. Better to be safe. Let me know on the above
@@NexusAuto Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease, I contacted manufacturer, the only spec is "Drop temperature 260 Celsius, company has no info about Flash and fire point, but I would assume it should be around 100C above 260C + 360C.
I am monitoring the rotor temp and it hasn't gone above 75C yest.
Thanks
= not +
@Abbas Dastranj hmmm. If you're concerned about fire with that Grease, better to be safe
I double checked with suppliers and it's true, I could not get a flash point. I got the dropping point of 500⁰F, so if the brakes get hot enough and liquefy, then it could run and maybe get on brake components. So even if it can withstand a higher temp, I can still affect the brakes in other ways.
@@NexusAuto Thank You, I measure rotor temp and never increase above 72C and the rotor temp should reach way above 500F to cause the guard temp to reach 500, I would clean it when installing winter tires.
Thank you sir! Also the caliper pin lube.. can you use any kind of grease on that or does it have to be something special?
You definitely want to use caliper lube , if possible. There are other greases that will work, but also others that will not. Some don't have high enough temp tolerances, not good with repelling moisture, or can cause rubber seals to swell. Other than playing a guessing game as to what will work and what won't, better to stick to caliper lube. Anything else, it would be at your own risk
@@NexusAuto thanks buddy
@@levihester3029 no problem!
I had my brake pads and rotors done about 50k miles ago. Starting to notice some brake noises. Can I just replace the pads or do I need to do rotors too? Thanks
There is a lot of factors that go in to determining if a rotor needs to be changed and most of it has to be seen. The previous brand of rotor, the materials in the rotors, if there is any ridges, wear, or damage, heats spots, etc. So it is ultimately hard to say. But generally speaking at 50k miles, I would say it would need to be changed. I have not seen a rotor exceed 100k miles (yet), and if you are changing to new pads, I doubt you will get another 50k miles off rotors, so it will likely eat through the new pads. I would say to change them to be safe,generally. But I do recommend checking them out first, to be sure.
Where did you jack the vehicle up in the front and rear. I am assuming rear diff for rear and there is a spot for the front?
You got it. I jack up at the rear diff, and at the front, there is a small spot in the middle where you can see the subframe(at least, on my car there is). I've recently recieved a few requests to make a video on jacking up the qx60. I hope to have it out tomorrow, if all goes well
@@NexusAuto yea I saw the spot. Got the brakes done on the JX35. Luckily I didn't have to do the rear rotors. Thanks again!
@@vtecaccord96 No problem. Glad to hear it went well. Great news!
How much time did it take to get it all done?
It took me longer to do this car because of the filming (set up camera, angles, etc), but normally it takes me about an hour wheels up to wheels down to get pads and rotors done.
Hey did you happen to use OEM pads and rotors on your vehicle? Or did you go with a different brand? Curious as to how they are holding up since this video as well!
Hi Bik. I did not use OEMs on the front. I used Raybestos coated discs and Raybestos pads. So far, they have held up very well. The only thing is after a car wash, they brakes are very loud for the first couple of stops. I think it has to do with the coating Raybestos used. Aside from that, they are great!
Question for you Nexus: when & if you use OEM parts, where do you purchase them? Do you normally just stop at local dealership or do you utilize an online dealership that offers discounts? I normally try to buy all OEM parts and I use an online dealership that does offer discounts but they are limited to what they sell.....anyways thank you for your time and vids. I have subscribed 🤙
So you don’t need to back up the first car while tapping the brakes, then drivef forward tapping the brakes?0
You could. The method I used to burnish the brakes is a very common one, but you can use the method you described. However, with newer ceramic brake pads, it takes a bit longer to wear in, so you'll have to do more of that back and forth motion. The one I described in the video is a more efficient way to get it done.
I don't see . you have a torque wrench you need to torque them at 62 pound and you need to tight them little more with the ratchet you didn't tight them to good
I gave the torque specs in the video. Why are you concerned if I used a torque wrench on my personal vehicle? That's my business honestly. And you do not need to do them a little more. It's not 62 ft lbs + some degrees like certain vehicles. 62 ft lbs, that's it. It's in the video. Enjoy