Good video, but I recommend that the fill plug be removed first, because if the fill plug is not able to be removed....better that you never removed the drain plug.
Very good point, and I completely agree with you. I should have lead by example in this video. I even did that in an upcoming video for a Mazda CX3. Thank you for pointing it out. I will edit the description to include that point.
I commented on how you should show the tools and parts needed. I hadn’t seen this video. You did after all. My mistake in recommending that. You did it here and was excellently done! Thank you Sir!
Thank you! To your other point and this one, I completely agree with you. Believe it or not, i actually had people complain that I spend too much time on showing the tools at the beginning, so in the other video, I tried something different (the list). I did not like that format and preferred showing the tools, and I got that feedback as well. So I have been continuing to show the tools since. Glad to hear it works out so well. Thanks for the fantastic feedback, very much appreciated.
It is actually a good idea to loosen up the fill plug first so you can abort the project if for some reason you are unable to refill the fluid. If you empty the fluid but has no way to refill it will be a really bad day.
Red Locktite is removable, they make a non-serviceable type too. Cleaning the threads is critical for the locktite to work. Won't work with dirty/oily threads.
I’ll be replacing the fluid this weekend, thank you for a very informative well scripted video on how to do this procedure. Much appreciated my friend! I can always use the savings by doing these simple tasks myself, and you are one of the very best out there to follow.
Thank you for posting this video. The rear diff just went out on my 2020 at 14k miles. These must be very finicky and need frequent fluid changes. I’ll plan to change mine every oil change to prevent failure.
Oh wow! That diff did not last long at all. The funny thing is, between the CVT transmission, the transfer case, and rear diff, the rear diff is supposed to be the 'strongest'. Glad to hear the video will help out in keeping the drivetrain going for you
Great video it helped a lot! You are right about the spare tire being a pain. At the full plug I used an extension to to get the hex bit into place and just used a 8mm wrench at the hex bit itself, worked great. I did use a pump to fill it, still a pain working around the tire.
Hard to say without being there to hear the banging myself and to diagnose it, but generally, if the banging is consistent with the movement of the vehicle (so on starts and stops only), I would start checking the mounts. If the banging is consistent with cruising (it's always happening), I would head to the hanger bearing first.
Good job! I've followed the same way to change mine last weekend. And by the way do you have any video that telling us to change the transfer case fluid? Because I'm confused there are 3 plugs on the transfer case(Top, side and bottom). The big plug on top is 4-sided 3/8 ratchet is impossible to reach. And I don't know what is that for. Thank you!
Thanks again, very much appreciated. I haven't made it yet, but I will be making it soon. It is the side bolt (which is annoying to get to) and the bottom. I'll keep you posted...keep an eye for it. But it will be a bit before it comes out
Yep, there is. But there is no front diff, instead there is a front transfer case. I made a video for it, it's here th-cam.com/video/rygz1_bugMc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gbLf1bHEIubR7qyC
Fuel injection service. It's recommended every 60000 miles/100000 lms, I'd I remember correctly. Does it need to be done? Not necessarily. The injectors don't clog up or build up carbon all that much. But there are things that can affect it. It doesn't hurt to get it done, but it's a pricey service and you may notice 0 change in how the vehicle operates. If you feel like you're QX is burning more gas then it should, lacks a bit of power, or feels a little bit sluggish, it may be worth doing. If you live in an area where you get good quality gas (it can vary across the country, trust me), then you don't need to. But if you're in a more rural area, you may want to consider it If consistently drive your vehicle with low gas or on 'E', you may want to consider doing the service. Hope that helps for your service today
I like your videos regarding the QX60. But I have two points. First, loosen the fill plug first to make sure it's not frozen beyond gorilla strength. Second, instead of squeezing the quart bottle for 15-20 minutes, why not use a simple screw top fluid pump?
Great news! Happy to hear that the videos are helpful. For the first thing, I absolutely agree. It's the best bet to always take the fill plug out first. For the second point, absolutely. I have a pneumatic, 2 way, and hand pumps. But when I make videos, I always try and make it as simple as possible. A lot of people watching are fairly new DIYers or people just trying to save money, and don't always have 'fancier' equipment. I always try and keep it simple. But if you have a pump, all the better for sure!
If you have an AWD model, it does. i just put out a video on it, actually. th-cam.com/video/rygz1_bugMc/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps. Glad the videos are helpful, thanks for the great feedback!
Any should work, as long as it is 75w90, API GL-5 and syntehtic. It does specify synthetic, so I would make sure to go with that. Otherwise, I should be good to go. I have a video on a drain and fill on the transmission, which can be found here. th-cam.com/video/dBDE7ddIp5E/w-d-xo.html I still have to do the transfer case. There will be a video on that in the future.
Luckily, these differentials do not give a lot of issues, so it is more of a maintenance thing. If it really bad, it will sound like a light grinding or squealing noise from the rear center of the Infiniti (which you should then stop driving and get it checked asap). Otherwise, it is recommended by Nissan Infiniti to get it done every 30000 miles. But that is low. I made this video when it was 62000 miles, and it was never done before and the fluid was in decent condition. If you want to be safe though, it should be 30000 miles/48000 kms.
I have not had that problem in my JX35, but I have seen it in other cars. Often (but not always) it is something with the radiator fan. Does the car cool off when you are driving?
Hi thank you for your videos i am a new subscribers, my jx35 2013 , shake when i push gas and turn the steering wheel all the way right or left , and it feel like the shake comes from rear wheel , is it the differencial need replacement? AWD jx35 2013 , 138k M, please help 🙏🏼
Great videos. I'm about to do all of the fluids. What fluid did you use for the transfer case because I'll be doing that too? I've seen a few options recommended but nothing concrete.
I actually haven't flushed my transfer case yet...on my list for this year. But I can tell you for sure it uses any gear oil that meets API GL-5, and the Viscosity is SAE 80W-90. Synthetic is strongly recommended.
It is recommended that you remove the fill plug first before you drain the fluid. If you can't get the fill plug off, at least you can drive the car to the service shop so they can do it.
No problem at all, I will have more videos in the future as well. There is no front diff on these cars. For driveline, there is only the CVT transmission, transfer case (video coming soon on this) and the rear differential.
I like your videos So much, they are super helpful. I am a beginner. I am a little bit confused about front differential and transfer case. Why did you flush rear differential fluid only? Do you think front differential fluid need to be flushed also? And I am looking forward to your transfer case fluid change video. Thank you
That's great news. Glad to hear the videos are helpful. I didn't do just the transfer case, I did the transfer case, the transmission, and the rear differential. There is no front differential on this vehicle. I already posted this CVT transmission video, along with this one. I do have to still post the transfer case video...hopefully that will come soon. Keep an eye out for it
@@NexusAuto yeah, your each video I have watched at least 3 times. I am planning to flush my Cvt step by step as you said. While, right now I'm stucked on the first step, I can not open the dipstick. Haha. What a design. Looking forward to your video updated
@@hh9kw7gf3n I agree. It is very annoying...easily the most annoying thing on this car! Lol..thanks for watching and the support. There will definitely be more videos to come!
I have 2016 qx60 and have 52000 miles on it should I do it? and do you have a video how to flush the transmission fluid on these because dealer wants ton of money.
At that mileage, it wouldn't hurt. You are a bit earlier than I was with mine, and the rear differential is fairly problem free compared to the cvt transmission, but it would be a good time. I don't have a video on the transmission flush, but I do have one on the CVT drain and fill th-cam.com/video/dBDE7ddIp5E/w-d-xo.html A full flush is not a great idea, as there is lot of complaints of transmission issues after a flush (which the dealer does not seem to take responsibility for). It doesn't happen often, but it is possible. The drain and fill is a good alternative. Also, since you have a 2016, check out my other videos on filling a 2015 and above, and how to remove the CVT transmission dipstick
hey man! i have a 2017 qx60 and i just noticed that, when i turn my steering wheel and move slowly, i feel some vibration. dont know if its coming from the front or back wheel. does that mean i need to refill my fluid or do i need to replace the rear coupler. thanks
Where are you feeling the vibration? I know it may be hard to locate, but does it feel like the rear or center of the vehicle? If it cannot be determined, I would say to check both the fluid and the center bearing mounting bracket. It is in the middle of the driveshaft, near the center of the vehicle. That bearing can cause low speed vibration.
@@NexusAuto thanks for replying. now that i paid extra attention it does feel like its coming from the back. whenever i do a 3 point turn. it feels like back tire is skipping.
@@johncruggerdagum hmmm, that is interesting. That could be an alignment issue in the rear. It wouldn't hurt to get that checked...there could be a worn suspension part causing this issue. It wouldn't hurt to check the rear differential fluid, or flush it out. Probably shouldn't need to do it unless you had high mileage
@@jaafaralsaffar1528hey bud, so i took it to the dealership and thankfully it wasstill covered under warranty. the issue was the transfer case and they had to replace the whole part and it wouldve cost me more than 3k to fix if i had to pay out of my own pocket.
Unfortunately, any of the above. The fluid being low is not a likely cause (although possible) as other issues will show with low fluid, like a grinding noise. Likely, there is something loose in the back end. Could be any number of things, unfortunately. From a suspension component, to something with the exhaust, to something with the rear drivetrain (like Ujoint) to the spare tire. Those are always tricky to locate
@@NexusAuto do you also need to change the transfer case as well? My JX35 is 60K miles dealer told me require for all wheel drive service. your though? Thanks,
@@josephnguyen9504 yep you definitely should get it done, as I will also do mine. I actually started filming it when I made the transmission drain and fill video, but the drain plug was really stuck. The bit I used broke and I got a large gash in my finger because if it lol. You can see the band aid in that transmission video, on my pointer finger haha. I haven't replaced the bit yet, but I absolutely intend to make that video in the near future. Transfer case is a must as well
@@NexusAuto Thanks for responded and hope you doing okay. Your video is so helpful for me. I saw your transmission oil change seems very easy just similar regular to engine oil change. I think 4Qts is still better than none. Like you said do couple times is all good. I can wait to see the transfer case video soon. Thanks Take care.
Hey, so I've been experiencing some vibrations and sounds coming from my FWD 2013 JX35 recently. I had a look at the maintainence records and noticed the differential fluid on my car was changed at 40,xxx kms back in 2015. The car is now at 160,xxx and as far as I know, the differential fluid has not been changed since. I am a bit confused by the comments on this page, since you specify that this is for an AWD JX35, and that it would not be an issue for a FWD car. Can you please explain what you mean?
Hi Bik. Long time no see! I can answer that for you. For the drive train of the vehicle, there is 3 main components, but only the AWD has all, and the FWD only has 1. The obvious one is the CVT transmission. All models, FWD or AWD have this. When you have AWD, there needs to be 2 additional components to allow the drivetrain to control all 4 wheels. First, there is the transfer case. This sits right beside the CVT transmission and allows the transmission to send power to the back of the car. The driveshaft would be attached here. Next is the rear differential. This is what allows the power that is transferred to the back of the JX35 to go to each wheel. It sits at the back of the vehicle, in between the 2 wheels. FWD is not sending any power to the rear, so it doesn't need a transfer case or rear differential. I do wonder how you had differential fluid changed though. I can only imagine 1. The shop meant CVT fluid, but accidentally wrote differential. Or...do you maybe have AWD and are unaware? I've had this happen to people before. (And the other way...they think they have awd and they dont). Either way, I find it strange for sure
Hey! Yeah its been awhile...but I still find myself referencing your videos so that says alot about your channel :) Thank you for the explanation, it really made it easier to understand. Had quite the adventure yesterday...came across an invoice for my vehicle from 2018 that stated "confirmed oil leak coming from seal between transfer leak and transmission". They had to remove the transfer case assembly and reseal the transmission side seal. By your explanation, this would mean my vehicle should also have a rear diff and is an AWD. I've been operating under the assumption that it is an FWD vehicle all these years! To make matter worse, I began to dig around and located another invoice from 2015 stating "replace diff side oil seal" In my mind this meant replace the differential side oil seal. But the service notes only indicated ATF CVT fluid. So it must of been a transmission seal. Anyways....I'll be tackling both the transfer case and rear differential in the next couple days and hope the noises being experienced are resolved by doing so. Have not confirmed the car has a rear differential, but thanks to your videos, it should not be too hard to locate! Appreciate all the help as always !
@Bik Garcha no problem at all! That is interesting. Wouldn't that be a surprise to find out you had an AWD model all this time. Keep me posted on your findings. And if you do have a transfer case and differential, I hope the flushes fix your noise and vibration issues
@@NexusAuto So took the car into Infiniti today as I tried and tried yesterday to get the transfer case fill plug off, but could not after a lot of grunting and sweating lol. Car is an AWD, so as such I had it scheduled for servicing the rear diff and the transfer case. Rear diff went off without a hitch, transfer case different story.... The service guy called me and told me the tech had advised him that the fluid in the transfer is so bad, it will not even drain. I had them take a pic, and man o man is it ever bad. Imagine wet cement/glue, grey in color. So it's definitely not an ideal situation to say the least. Dealer obviously had a crazy quote to get it replaced (5200 plus tax). I am now thinking of possibly getting a used one, or even a brand new one with labor will cost me about 3k (if sourced online myself). Or, I'm thinking of seriously trading this in and moving to a different platform. I'm an Acura/Honda guy at heart and have been my whole life, the RDX is appealing.....? In any case, I have some decisions to make, and make soon.....not sure what a failing transfer case can do to a car, but im not going to stick around to find out.
@@bikgarcha3061 Well, that is good news for the Rear Diff. But oh wow, sorry to hear about the transfer case! I can imagine how your describing it, and that does suck! And knowing that, it probably smelled terrible too! The cost doesn't surprise me either. They are a very pricey fix, as you know. And you're right about not wanting to find out about what happens if the transfer case fail. We're talking that it either 'grenades' and makes a huge amount of noise and parts may even break out of the transfer case, or or it completely seizes and the wheels lock up. I hear you with considering a new vehicle. Hondas and Acuras are great vehicles to keep in mind, and the RDX is a great SUV! Keep me posted on what you end up doing, just for my own curiosity. Sorry to hear about your JX!
I am hoping to get to it soon. I definitely would like to get it done soon. I'll keep you posted. And thanks for the feedback too...appreciate it 100%!
You got it. I am in Ontario, Canada. Road salt and snow had done a number on these cars. And believe it or not, this is actually an excellent condition undercarriage for a car up here!
Should this cost me 2,440 dollars? I watch your videos often. A 77 year old lady who doesn’t want to be overcharged :). My daughter bought this car used at 60K miles. Needs transmission work and this rear differential coupler replaced.
Hello. Thanks so much for watching my videos...I appreciate it. 100% agree on not getting overcharged...Hopefully these videos help with that. A rear differential flush should not cost that much at all...maybe a couple of hundred bucks, depending on where you live. But the differential coupler replacement is pricey and sounds about right overall. It's not a cheap fix at all
@@NexusAuto Thank you so much for your response. Turns out it was to replace the differential coupler. So I appreciate knowing that the price is in line. You are doing so much good with your videos. Don’t quit :)
I use breaker bars for heavier duty suspension, like suspension/brakes/subframes/exhaust/etc. With transfer cases or differentials, I prefer using my regular ratchet first (which I was able to use successfully). Sometimes the drain and fill plugs can seize and using a breaker bar can strip them. Sometimes I'll even use a hammer to tap the ratchet to shock out any rust or road salt/sediment. Just how I do it personally. I know many people who use breakers on diffs with no issues. Just my method, but there is a reason for it.
I have a 2020 Nissan pathfinder, manual says it needs semi synthetic 75w90 GL5 hypoid gear oil. Does it really make a difference if I use hypoid gear oil?
That's a great question, and I honestly don't know the answer. I'm not sure if regular gear oil will work, as hypoid oil is meant to have the same viscosity, but can handle high pressures and Temps. I don't know how well regular gear oil will hold up. To be safe, I would stick to the hypoid oil
Good video, but I recommend that the fill plug be removed first, because if the fill plug is not able to be removed....better that you never removed the drain plug.
Very good point, and I completely agree with you. I should have lead by example in this video. I even did that in an upcoming video for a Mazda CX3. Thank you for pointing it out. I will edit the description to include that point.
Excellent comment ! But I see the creator acknowledged his error !
I always take the fill plug out first just in case you can't it out before you remove the drain plug. Good presentation.Thanks for your effort.
That's honestly the best possible practice. Just in case! Thanks for the great feedback!
I commented on how you should show the tools and parts needed. I hadn’t seen this video. You did after all. My mistake in recommending that. You did it here and was excellently done!
Thank you Sir!
Thank you! To your other point and this one, I completely agree with you. Believe it or not, i actually had people complain that I spend too much time on showing the tools at the beginning, so in the other video, I tried something different (the list). I did not like that format and preferred showing the tools, and I got that feedback as well. So I have been continuing to show the tools since. Glad to hear it works out so well. Thanks for the fantastic feedback, very much appreciated.
It is actually a good idea to loosen up the fill plug first so you can abort the project if for some reason you are unable to refill the fluid. If you empty the fluid but has no way to refill it will be a really bad day.
Absolutely agree. I know this, and should have mentioned it in the video. Many have commented with that already
I always look for your informative videos first!
@russkelley5477 i really appreciate that! Great to hear the videos are helpful! That's awesome!
Red Locktite is removable, they make a non-serviceable type too. Cleaning the threads is critical for the locktite to work. Won't work with dirty/oily threads.
@@Lawless098098 completely agree. Always clean up the threada
I’ll be replacing the fluid this weekend, thank you for a very informative well scripted video on how to do this procedure. Much appreciated my friend! I can always use the savings by doing these simple tasks myself, and you are one of the very best out there to follow.
Thanks Tom. I really appreciate the great feedback! I hope the whole procedure on the fluids went well. Thanks for the support!
Thank you for posting this video. The rear diff just went out on my 2020 at 14k miles. These must be very finicky and need frequent fluid changes. I’ll plan to change mine every oil change to prevent failure.
Oh wow! That diff did not last long at all. The funny thing is, between the CVT transmission, the transfer case, and rear diff, the rear diff is supposed to be the 'strongest'. Glad to hear the video will help out in keeping the drivetrain going for you
Great video it helped a lot! You are right about the spare tire being a pain. At the full plug I used an extension to to get the hex bit into place and just used a 8mm wrench at the hex bit itself, worked great. I did use a pump to fill it, still a pain working around the tire.
I agree. that spare is a pain. Glad to hear you got it done, and the video was helpful
Thanks and needed that advice and lesson, i have a jx35 and love working on my own vehicle
No problem at all! Happy to see you found my channel and the video helped out!
Sorry.
I have a question.
I nees How many oil to do the change.
Thank you!
Sorry my English it's not good.
Oh, no problem, I understand you perfectly.
You don't need much, less than 1L. About 1/2 L total.
@@NexusAuto ok! Thank you very much!!! I so like your DIY Video.
@@saveors no problem at all! I'm happy they help!
Great video. I used a water bottle in place of the fluid bottle, much easier to squeeze.
Oh nice...I like that water bottle idea. I may try that next time. Thanks for the great feedback
nice again. Do you what after market DIFF. BUSHING can be used on the fx35 2009?
can you tell me why my rear diff is banging? changed the reartwice same problem could it be the hanger bearing or those mounts?
Hard to say without being there to hear the banging myself and to diagnose it, but generally, if the banging is consistent with the movement of the vehicle (so on starts and stops only), I would start checking the mounts. If the banging is consistent with cruising (it's always happening), I would head to the hanger bearing first.
Great job
It will be my next project for next week after changing transmission fluid tomorrow 😅
Thanks, and glad to hear the video will help! Hope all goes well!
Well done 😊 the oil was so dark
I changed the filter too
Drive it for 10 miles it was perfect
@@saidhalym8126 nice!! Sounds like it was very much due for service! Happy to hear everything went well!
Good job! I've followed the same way to change mine last weekend. And by the way do you have any video that telling us to change the transfer case fluid? Because I'm confused there are 3 plugs on the transfer case(Top, side and bottom). The big plug on top is 4-sided 3/8 ratchet is impossible to reach. And I don't know what is that for. Thank you!
Thanks again, very much appreciated. I haven't made it yet, but I will be making it soon. It is the side bolt (which is annoying to get to) and the bottom. I'll keep you posted...keep an eye for it. But it will be a bit before it comes out
I need help asps the jx35 electric coupler the same as pathfinder 2013 and the year of 2013 the same as 2014 2015 2016 ????????
The electric coupling assembly does look to be the same for all models from 2013 to 2020.
Also do you have a front differential flush video?
I do. Here is the video on it
th-cam.com/video/rygz1_bugMc/w-d-xo.html
What about the FWD diff? Is there a video for that?
Yep, there is. But there is no front diff, instead there is a front transfer case. I made a video for it, it's here
th-cam.com/video/rygz1_bugMc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gbLf1bHEIubR7qyC
Sorry I if missed in video, but how much fluid did you use, more than 1 bottle ?
No problem at all. It was less than a bottle, about 1/2 a bottle, if I remember
if it's very tight is an impact driver best to loosen it? I would think so.
@@Lawless098098 it's not torqued down a lot, so i don't think an impact is needed. You also don't want to damage/strip the head either
I'm taking my Infiniti QX60 to dealer today to get the rear differential done they said I need something else done for gas injector, is that true
Fuel injection service. It's recommended every 60000 miles/100000 lms, I'd I remember correctly.
Does it need to be done? Not necessarily. The injectors don't clog up or build up carbon all that much. But there are things that can affect it. It doesn't hurt to get it done, but it's a pricey service and you may notice 0 change in how the vehicle operates.
If you feel like you're QX is burning more gas then it should, lacks a bit of power, or feels a little bit sluggish, it may be worth doing.
If you live in an area where you get good quality gas (it can vary across the country, trust me), then you don't need to. But if you're in a more rural area, you may want to consider it
If consistently drive your vehicle with low gas or on 'E', you may want to consider doing the service.
Hope that helps for your service today
I like your videos regarding the QX60. But I have two points. First, loosen the fill plug first to make sure it's not frozen beyond gorilla strength. Second, instead of squeezing the quart bottle for 15-20 minutes, why not use a simple screw top fluid pump?
Great news! Happy to hear that the videos are helpful.
For the first thing, I absolutely agree. It's the best bet to always take the fill plug out first.
For the second point, absolutely. I have a pneumatic, 2 way, and hand pumps. But when I make videos, I always try and make it as simple as possible. A lot of people watching are fairly new DIYers or people just trying to save money, and don't always have 'fancier' equipment. I always try and keep it simple. But if you have a pump, all the better for sure!
Hey I appreciate your video always. By any chance, can I use 75w90 gear oil at both the transfer case and differential case?
You can, theoretically speaking. But I wouldn't recommend it, especially on these cars, with their finicky drivetrain.
@@NexusAuto thanks a lot as always. I am a big fan of u.
No problem, and thanks! I appreciate it!
Great videos man! Hey, does the 2014 Infiniti QX60 have a transfer case that also needs fluid replacement?
If you have an AWD model, it does. i just put out a video on it, actually.
th-cam.com/video/rygz1_bugMc/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps. Glad the videos are helpful, thanks for the great feedback!
@@NexusAuto Thank you! I just subscribed and liked your videos. I asked you a couple questions on the other video...
Is any 75w90 GL-5 gear oil ok? And what about the front?
Any should work, as long as it is 75w90, API GL-5 and syntehtic. It does specify synthetic, so I would make sure to go with that. Otherwise, I should be good to go.
I have a video on a drain and fill on the transmission, which can be found here.
th-cam.com/video/dBDE7ddIp5E/w-d-xo.html
I still have to do the transfer case. There will be a video on that in the future.
What is issue to know when. I have to change me oil from differential
Luckily, these differentials do not give a lot of issues, so it is more of a maintenance thing. If it really bad, it will sound like a light grinding or squealing noise from the rear center of the Infiniti (which you should then stop driving and get it checked asap). Otherwise, it is recommended by Nissan Infiniti to get it done every 30000 miles. But that is low. I made this video when it was 62000 miles, and it was never done before and the fluid was in decent condition. If you want to be safe though, it should be 30000 miles/48000 kms.
Regarding the FWD version, do you know where there’s a diagram for the front diff for draining? I can’t see the drain and fill plugs anywhere. Thanks
For the FWD, there is no front differential or transfer case. Only the CVT transmission is present.
@@NexusAuto great thank you
@@damon657 No problem
Has your JX35 ever idled and overheated if it's sitting but turned on
I have not had that problem in my JX35, but I have seen it in other cars. Often (but not always) it is something with the radiator fan. Does the car cool off when you are driving?
My Jx 35 has never had a differential flush 137k (kms not miles) do you suggest doing it?😊
100% I would suggest it. It's recommended at around 32000 kms by Nissan/Infiniti, so at that mileage, I would definitely recommend it
Hi thank you for your videos i am a new subscribers, my jx35 2013 , shake when i push gas and turn the steering wheel all the way right or left , and it feel like the shake comes from rear wheel , is it the differencial need replacement? AWD jx35 2013 , 138k M, please help 🙏🏼
Do you have any videos on the transfer case
Not yet, but it is coming soon
Great videos. I'm about to do all of the fluids. What fluid did you use for the transfer case because I'll be doing that too? I've seen a few options recommended but nothing concrete.
I actually haven't flushed my transfer case yet...on my list for this year. But I can tell you for sure it uses any gear oil that meets API GL-5, and the Viscosity is SAE 80W-90. Synthetic is strongly recommended.
Nexus Auto Thanks a million! Keep up the great work!
Thanks,.appreciate it!
It is recommended that you remove the fill plug first before you drain the fluid. If you can't get the fill plug off, at least you can drive the car to the service shop so they can do it.
Absolutely. Thank you for sharing. Will help future viewers.
Ok I've looked everywhere! Is there a front differential to change fluids? BTW thanks so much for the jx/qx support!
No problem at all, I will have more videos in the future as well.
There is no front diff on these cars. For driveline, there is only the CVT transmission, transfer case (video coming soon on this) and the rear differential.
@@NexusAuto I was looking for a 5 leaf clover! You're the best thanks buddy!!!
@@HuiDaddy LOL. No problem at all.
I like your videos So much, they are super helpful. I am a beginner. I am a little bit confused about front differential and transfer case. Why did you flush rear differential fluid only? Do you think front differential fluid need to be flushed also?
And I am looking forward to your transfer case fluid change video. Thank you
That's great news. Glad to hear the videos are helpful.
I didn't do just the transfer case, I did the transfer case, the transmission, and the rear differential. There is no front differential on this vehicle.
I already posted this CVT transmission video, along with this one. I do have to still post the transfer case video...hopefully that will come soon. Keep an eye out for it
@@NexusAuto yeah, your each video I have watched at least 3 times. I am planning to flush my Cvt step by step as you said. While, right now I'm stucked on the first step, I can not open the dipstick. Haha. What a design.
Looking forward to your video updated
@@hh9kw7gf3n I agree. It is very annoying...easily the most annoying thing on this car! Lol..thanks for watching and the support. There will definitely be more videos to come!
I have 2016 qx60 and have 52000 miles on it should I do it? and do you have a video how to flush the transmission fluid on these because dealer wants ton of money.
At that mileage, it wouldn't hurt. You are a bit earlier than I was with mine, and the rear differential is fairly problem free compared to the cvt transmission, but it would be a good time.
I don't have a video on the transmission flush, but I do have one on the CVT drain and fill
th-cam.com/video/dBDE7ddIp5E/w-d-xo.html
A full flush is not a great idea, as there is lot of complaints of transmission issues after a flush (which the dealer does not seem to take responsibility for). It doesn't happen often, but it is possible. The drain and fill is a good alternative.
Also, since you have a 2016, check out my other videos on filling a 2015 and above, and how to remove the CVT transmission dipstick
hey man! i have a 2017 qx60 and i just noticed that, when i turn my steering wheel and move slowly, i feel some vibration. dont know if its coming from the front or back wheel. does that mean i need to refill my fluid or do i need to replace the rear coupler. thanks
Where are you feeling the vibration? I know it may be hard to locate, but does it feel like the rear or center of the vehicle?
If it cannot be determined, I would say to check both the fluid and the center bearing mounting bracket. It is in the middle of the driveshaft, near the center of the vehicle. That bearing can cause low speed vibration.
@@NexusAuto thanks for replying. now that i paid extra attention it does feel like its coming from the back. whenever i do a 3 point turn. it feels like back tire is skipping.
@@johncruggerdagum hmmm, that is interesting. That could be an alignment issue in the rear. It wouldn't hurt to get that checked...there could be a worn suspension part causing this issue. It wouldn't hurt to check the rear differential fluid, or flush it out. Probably shouldn't need to do it unless you had high mileage
I have same issue exactly, did you fix it? How please ? My repairer said will need to flush out the fluid and not sure if he is correct!
@@jaafaralsaffar1528hey bud, so i took it to the dealership and thankfully it wasstill covered under warranty. the issue was the transfer case and they had to replace the whole part and it wouldve cost me more than 3k to fix if i had to pay out of my own pocket.
I've been hearing a rattle when i accelerate , is that something that has to do with the fluid or is it just a loose clamp or something ?
Unfortunately, any of the above. The fluid being low is not a likely cause (although possible) as other issues will show with low fluid, like a grinding noise. Likely, there is something loose in the back end. Could be any number of things, unfortunately. From a suspension component, to something with the exhaust, to something with the rear drivetrain (like Ujoint) to the spare tire. Those are always tricky to locate
Stupid question, is this for awd & rwd? my qx60 is front-wheel drive?
Not a stupid question at all. This is for AWD only. If you have FWD, this will not be an issue.
@@NexusAuto Ty!
How many bottles of oil you need? Thanks
1 bottle is more than enough. You'll be able to fill the diff and still have some left over.
@@NexusAuto do you also need to change the transfer case as well? My JX35 is 60K miles dealer told me require for all wheel drive service. your though? Thanks,
@@josephnguyen9504 yep you definitely should get it done, as I will also do mine. I actually started filming it when I made the transmission drain and fill video, but the drain plug was really stuck. The bit I used broke and I got a large gash in my finger because if it lol. You can see the band aid in that transmission video, on my pointer finger haha. I haven't replaced the bit yet, but I absolutely intend to make that video in the near future. Transfer case is a must as well
@@NexusAuto Thanks for responded and hope you doing okay. Your video is so helpful for me. I saw your transmission oil change seems very easy just similar regular to engine oil change. I think 4Qts is still better than none. Like you said do couple times is all good. I can wait to see the transfer case video soon. Thanks Take care.
Hey, so I've been experiencing some vibrations and sounds coming from my FWD 2013 JX35 recently. I had a look at the maintainence records and noticed the differential fluid on my car was changed at 40,xxx kms back in 2015. The car is now at 160,xxx and as far as I know, the differential fluid has not been changed since. I am a bit confused by the comments on this page, since you specify that this is for an AWD JX35, and that it would not be an issue for a FWD car. Can you please explain what you mean?
Hi Bik. Long time no see! I can answer that for you.
For the drive train of the vehicle, there is 3 main components, but only the AWD has all, and the FWD only has 1.
The obvious one is the CVT transmission. All models, FWD or AWD have this.
When you have AWD, there needs to be 2 additional components to allow the drivetrain to control all 4 wheels.
First, there is the transfer case. This sits right beside the CVT transmission and allows the transmission to send power to the back of the car. The driveshaft would be attached here.
Next is the rear differential. This is what allows the power that is transferred to the back of the JX35 to go to each wheel. It sits at the back of the vehicle, in between the 2 wheels.
FWD is not sending any power to the rear, so it doesn't need a transfer case or rear differential.
I do wonder how you had differential fluid changed though. I can only imagine 1. The shop meant CVT fluid, but accidentally wrote differential. Or...do you maybe have AWD and are unaware? I've had this happen to people before. (And the other way...they think they have awd and they dont).
Either way, I find it strange for sure
Hey! Yeah its been awhile...but I still find myself referencing your videos so that says alot about your channel :)
Thank you for the explanation, it really made it easier to understand.
Had quite the adventure yesterday...came across an invoice for my vehicle from 2018 that stated "confirmed oil leak coming from seal between transfer leak and transmission". They had to remove the transfer case assembly and reseal the transmission side seal.
By your explanation, this would mean my vehicle should also have a rear diff and is an AWD. I've been operating under the assumption that it is an FWD vehicle all these years!
To make matter worse, I began to dig around and located another invoice from 2015 stating "replace diff side oil seal" In my mind this meant replace the differential side oil seal. But the service notes only indicated ATF CVT fluid. So it must of been a transmission seal.
Anyways....I'll be tackling both the transfer case and rear differential in the next couple days and hope the noises being experienced are resolved by doing so. Have not confirmed the car has a rear differential, but thanks to your videos, it should not be too hard to locate! Appreciate all the help as always !
@Bik Garcha no problem at all!
That is interesting. Wouldn't that be a surprise to find out you had an AWD model all this time. Keep me posted on your findings. And if you do have a transfer case and differential, I hope the flushes fix your noise and vibration issues
@@NexusAuto So took the car into Infiniti today as I tried and tried yesterday to get the transfer case fill plug off, but could not after a lot of grunting and sweating lol.
Car is an AWD, so as such I had it scheduled for servicing the rear diff and the transfer case. Rear diff went off without a hitch, transfer case different story....
The service guy called me and told me the tech had advised him that the fluid in the transfer is so bad, it will not even drain. I had them take a pic, and man o man is it ever bad. Imagine wet cement/glue, grey in color. So it's definitely not an ideal situation to say the least.
Dealer obviously had a crazy quote to get it replaced (5200 plus tax). I am now thinking of possibly getting a used one, or even a brand new one with labor will cost me about 3k (if sourced online myself). Or, I'm thinking of seriously trading this in and moving to a different platform. I'm an Acura/Honda guy at heart and have been my whole life, the RDX is appealing.....?
In any case, I have some decisions to make, and make soon.....not sure what a failing transfer case can do to a car, but im not going to stick around to find out.
@@bikgarcha3061 Well, that is good news for the Rear Diff. But oh wow, sorry to hear about the transfer case! I can imagine how your describing it, and that does suck! And knowing that, it probably smelled terrible too!
The cost doesn't surprise me either. They are a very pricey fix, as you know. And you're right about not wanting to find out about what happens if the transfer case fail. We're talking that it either 'grenades' and makes a huge amount of noise and parts may even break out of the transfer case, or or it completely seizes and the wheels lock up.
I hear you with considering a new vehicle. Hondas and Acuras are great vehicles to keep in mind, and the RDX is a great SUV!
Keep me posted on what you end up doing, just for my own curiosity. Sorry to hear about your JX!
good job my brother
Thanks! Appreciate it!
What kind of left do you have
It's called a quickjack lift. I really love it, comes in handy. I'll actually have some videos on it soon.
@@NexusAuto thank you for the information are you going to show replacing spark plugs soon. Great videos looking forward for more.. have a great day.
I am hoping to get to it soon. I definitely would like to get it done soon. I'll keep you posted. And thanks for the feedback too...appreciate it 100%!
How does your undercarriage look so bad? Up north?
You got it. I am in Ontario, Canada. Road salt and snow had done a number on these cars. And believe it or not, this is actually an excellent condition undercarriage for a car up here!
Still good stuff👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks! Always appreciate your support
Should this cost me 2,440 dollars? I watch your videos often. A 77 year old lady who doesn’t want to be overcharged :). My daughter bought this car used at 60K miles. Needs transmission work and this rear differential coupler replaced.
Hello. Thanks so much for watching my videos...I appreciate it. 100% agree on not getting overcharged...Hopefully these videos help with that.
A rear differential flush should not cost that much at all...maybe a couple of hundred bucks, depending on where you live. But the differential coupler replacement is pricey and sounds about right overall. It's not a cheap fix at all
@@NexusAuto Thank you so much for your response. Turns out it was to replace the differential coupler. So I appreciate knowing that the price is in line. You are doing so much good with your videos. Don’t quit :)
@@sharonpeacock5199 no problem at all! Happy to help out. And I really appreciate that feedback. Thank you!
Always loosen the fill plug 1st.
Yep I know. It's my own regret in this video...not mentioning it. Many have pointed this out already
Alway better to use a long breaker bar or ratchet
I use breaker bars for heavier duty suspension, like suspension/brakes/subframes/exhaust/etc. With transfer cases or differentials, I prefer using my regular ratchet first (which I was able to use successfully). Sometimes the drain and fill plugs can seize and using a breaker bar can strip them. Sometimes I'll even use a hammer to tap the ratchet to shock out any rust or road salt/sediment. Just how I do it personally. I know many people who use breakers on diffs with no issues. Just my method, but there is a reason for it.
You are confusing the word flush with drain. This is draining and not flushing. Flushing will be repeating this 3 times with some cleaning agents.
I have a 2020 Nissan pathfinder, manual says it needs semi synthetic 75w90 GL5 hypoid gear oil. Does it really make a difference if I use hypoid gear oil?
That's a great question, and I honestly don't know the answer. I'm not sure if regular gear oil will work, as hypoid oil is meant to have the same viscosity, but can handle high pressures and Temps. I don't know how well regular gear oil will hold up. To be safe, I would stick to the hypoid oil