How to Re-Glaze Wood Windows
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ค. 2014
- Leah from See Jane Drill demonstrates the process of re-glazing old wood windows.
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• How to Re-Glaze Wood W...
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Glazing a window is almost a lost art. But there are some beautiful historic homes out there with these old windows that deserve to be maintained and preserved. It's good to see that you are keeping the art alive.
Thanks Jane. My wife just repainted our 1970's curio cabinet. I removed the wood front around the glass doors that looks "Colonial" 6-5x7 per door. I used the pins to replace the glass after removing the rubber around the inside. Now I know how to finish it off. Thank you again very much for your videos. Stay safe.
Of course your supposed to paint the wood with primer before you apply putty or linseed oil that windows were originally treated with, otherwise the wood will absorb aborb the oil from the putty and eventually dry out and crack then rain water can start getting to the wood. Of course your supposed to paint the putty after about four weeks to seal it in and stop it drying out from the top.
Again, another great video! Thank you so much for the helpful video. Finished replacing not only the broken basement window but the pane that wasn’t broken was incorrectly installed. Fixed both in under an hour!
This video and the video for redoing pulleys has helped me tremendously with restoring my house from 1894. Using your fingers to push on the back of the blade was very helpful, as I tried to without doing so and without enough pressure the putty separates. Thank you.
Excellent! Thank you Jane, I have an old window to Glaze and your tips are so appreciated!
Thanks a ton Jane, learned a ton after watching the vid and reading the answered questions below. Tackling this process for the very first time, you gave me the confidence to get started.
you're very welcome, and good luck with your glazing project!
Loved that! Thanks for keeping it simple, brief & demonstrating how in such a clear way. You energised me to attempt this myself. Other people’s comments about primer helpful too. ❤️🙏
The combination of verbal instruction, and camera work made this video great. Thank you for your invaluable tutorial. I can now repair my French doors without looking any further.
I would recommend sanding and smoothing the edges of the old frame to get a more smooth “glide” . I learned also that the main reason for pressing the putty thoroughly in is to get it into the space between the glass and frame. Just my five cents from trial and error.
And painting primer on the wood before applying putty to stop the wood absorbing oil from the putty causing the putty to dry out and crack.
Alternative to priming .... boiled linseed oil painted on to the bare wood soaks into the wood instead of sitting on the surface the way that primer does @@marklittler784
@@marklittler784
Is that why the text in the video in the beginning says to apply linseed oil before glazing? I'm wondering how this would affect painting after the glazing is done.
Thank you for this video, Jane! You’re such a good teacher!!!
Excellent demonstration and instruction. Thank you
THANK YOU! You simplified this for me. I feel like I can re-glaze my 95 year store display windows that need a lot of love. Bless you friend.
I live in an old house built in the 1930's. That is the way the windows are in this house. It's been a long time since I have seen this done. Awesome to see someone that still uses it and knows how to do it. Thanks Leah. P.S.I have subscribed to your channel to see what other tricks I can learn along the way.
you're welcome, and thanks!
We still do it at my home on 1820's windows. Because we don't want to replace the old ornate windows (and it would be too costly to add ventilation)
Thanks very much, you are an inspiration!
Your videos are always so helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
you're very welcome, Michael!
Sweet! Thank you for uploading this. I got a French door to fix tomorrow
thanks for your video it is the first time i am reglazing old stained windows . I didn t know about linseed oil but however as I inserted the points ( triangle ones ) they were like blunt so I ground them all razor sharp on one angle , took a very very squared brass block , a towel as a pad between the glass and the block and a hammer with a lot of caution and it did the job.
Seems like every time I search for a DIY home maintenance video, I end up seeing Jane! Thanks for teaching me so much!
Love your videos! Thank you. Your experience and knowledge always amazes me.
Clap 👏 I’m a painter and I admire what you doing
Perfect! THANK YOU!!!!
This was so helpful, THANKS!😄
That was brilliant! Thanks from Kilcoy Australia 🇦🇺
Thank you. Excellent explanation. 👍
you always are the best jane...
Thanks for your great instruction
This was so helpful! Thank you
Very nice clear instructions. You're brilliant. Thank you.
you're very welcome!
Nice tutorial thanks
Thanks for the video. I'm going to try to put my new knowledge to use very soon!
Thanks for posting
Nice to see a woman doing this, I built my own home 🏡 and ppl still don’t believe woman can do this stuff
Thanks for posting this in your straightforward no nonsense style. I will tackle this task as soon as I can figure out how to remove my window. 😉
🙂
Thanks. ...... I'm going to have a go right now !!!!
Thank you excellent video
Looks like a lot of glaze… im sure you could see that looking through the window! But you know what you’re doing and im sure you have your reasons. Nice work and always appreciate a good tutorial
LOL I love that you added the "click like" button on there as I always forget to do that! Again thanks for a neat and clean tutorial!
+I Cooley :)
Really good video, thank you very much for the information! God Bless
Just what I needed, thank you.
Very professional.
Thanks! I had an issue with the glazing putting sticking to my finger tips, like big time sticking to my fingers, not sure if it was the brand or I just have sticky fingers! I used DAP brand.
Thank you!
good job, Jane..... good video and direction... thank you from Vermont
Tremendous “no filler” video - thanks so much. You should train other “how to” videographers.
New favorite channel to find my fix-it tips.
You're the best! Thank you!
I’ve found if you score the wood before putting the jam in, it helps guide the jam without cracking the window by putting too much pressure on the wood
Awesome!!!
Thank you so much for that! 😊
Thank you!!!!!
Repairs went very well. Many Thanks for the common sense lessons. More work than it looks on your vid. Have to remove the window, not always easy. Job Complete, the bill submitted. Brian, N.H. USA
Glad to hear it!
Thanks for posting that this could be done with the Windows in place. I did not want to remove mine to do this task.
Very well done ! Nice job .
NJ, USA
The Garden State :)
Yeah , our Agricultural Southern half is the Garden , up here by Newark its refineries !
But it's an interesting place . 1/2 hour to Manhattan , 45 minutes to PA , 45 minutes to the Shore , and about 20 minutes to a beautiful
County Park , about 3,000 Acres . One hour South it's the farms , West of here about 30 minutes is all horse country . NJ isn't so bad , just the taxes !
Again , nice job .
Thanks! I was always under the impression that you want the glazing not to be seen from the opposite side of the window. What do you have to say about this?
My house is 99 yrs old with original windows and very drafty, so thank ever so much. Do you have to to inner and outer panes?
thanks!
You've got great style.
I’ve seen some people use a product called XIM? Have you done this before or have an opinion? Thanks for the video!
Good job. I have seen this same thing with less glazing applied. I guess as long as it keeps out airflow amount shouldn’t matter?
Thanks for the video! My house has the old windows similar to the one you did in the video. I was going to hire someone but i really like the challenge and always feel great after its done. I cant wait to give it a try!! The priming you speak of is done before the glazing right? What primer brand and name do you recommend?
Hi Diane, yes, you do prime before the glazing. Any oil-based primer will do the job. Some people like to use BIN. It's not oil-based, but it is quick drying.
i just subscribed, your awesome!
If your using any of the hard glazing it is an oil based product which means you have to paint with oil base.. Or prime with a zinzzer or Kilz prior to painting latex on it.
Exactly this was the mistake my father constantly made as we lived next to an alleyway and got windows broken quite often sometimes the varnish or linseed oil was still left on after chipping the putty off which acted as a sealer but not all, you have to seal the wood with primer to stop the wood soaking the oil out of your putty and seal with paint after a few weeks.
I think this is one of the better glazing vids. Related comment about linseed oil is a good add-on for the vid.
+doug h thanks, Doug!
How long should you let the linseed oil sit before applying the glaze?
If u want it to look right I should tape it uniform and glaze then pull tape immediately. Then u will have an actual bead on the edge of the glazing where it meets the glass. Also when u pull the tape it will take the excess with it.
Thank you,
Looking to do this masel tomorrow need to get a load of work done,,,, but on a budget, like 0 budget,
Thanks:)
Do you have a video for replacing a window?
Neat job 😁
I think I can do this. Thanks
Very good straight forward instruction for a glazing a window pane. 5 star professional. (also, there is no aame background music)
)
I should really take the window off to get this right? Thanks for the point tips, too.
Do you need to glaze outside and inside of the window panes?
I'm using the same DAP 33 product but when I try to roll it out like you did it sticks to my hands like svhool paste. It will not stick to wood or glass. When I try to push it in, the compound pulls right out to stay with my hand. Do I need to microwave it, or just hire you to do this?
Tip: use mineral spirits to make DAP 33 less glue like.
does it matter if the temperature outside is cold? I understand that the glazing itself needs to be warm for proper adhesion, but does it have to be done in warmer temperatures if you are repairing an exterior window?
The glaze takes longer to dry if it's really cold!
You mentioned to apply linseed oil on the wood to improve adhesion of the putty. Boiled linseed oil or regular?
Boiled.
Its to stop the wood from absorbing the oil out of the putty and drying it out resulting in it cracking and failing later on.
Nice, tight corners there, Jane! Sweet! Do you have any suggestion for a putty knife that’s dragging and do you dust the end of glazing with anything ? I’ve seen others do that don’t know if it’s worth it.
Do you bed the glass in glaze as well as glazing the interior?
well supposed to...if redoing old windows and the pane is stuck down tight with the old glazing..i would leave it..if you are a perfectionist...take out all points and glass ...clear away all old bedding glazing and start over
Using those glazing points makes the glazing compound too thick if they are completely covered. And you will see the white glazing compound from the inside. Need to use the small triangles or diamond shaped points.
Thanks! Do you have a video showing how to remove glazing?
Any advice how to remove the oil marks on the pane and do you try to remove the smudges immediately a wait a bit . Thank you
Thanks for this. But my compound was super sticky and was stuck to my hands like paste. How can I get mine to look like yours?
Maybe leave it dry out a bit before use.
What is minimum temp for glazing windows that you can’t remove and bring indoors
I just bought some more glazing compound and it's too sticky to roll. Have you ever had this happen and what did you do?
thanks
I've noticed that the glazing made with linseed oil is more sticky than others and bit more difficult to work with.
Lasts longer.
Wood windows, who knew? I thought they were made of glass. Seriously, Jane rocks.
Your thinking of a window shutter, it wouldn't be a window if it wasn't transparent.
So funny you should make a video of this. I'm re-glazing windows for a client, now.
I must ask, however, why you're not oil-priming first.
Hi Dana, Yes, priming the bare wood is a best practice. The caveat to priming is that you have to let the primer dry completely before glazing. I prefer linseed oil with a little mineral spirits. Oil primer is also an excellent choice. Some like to use penetrol, however, I've never used it as a primer, only as a paint conditioner. Good luck with your project. It's time-consuming, but you are doing it the right way.
Thanks so much. Why such slow-drying oils, though? The oil-primer before glaze, then the 7-14-day waiting period before another oil priming is definitely time-consuming - but linseed, that's ultra-slow-drying. What are the benefits of these slower, oilier techniques? I love being able to inform my customers.
And yes, I am highly interested in even the most minute of details, if you're so inclined.
Love what you're doing, here.
I am assuming that the linseed and mineral spirits are meant to really soak and protect the wood. Not unlike an oil-rubbed furniture finish. Which, after thinking about it, is a pretty good bit of info to give customers with these historic gems.
I learn more and more every day.
dana bagby Hi Dana, actually, use of linseed oil or another primer is not to protect the wood, but to prevent the wood from leaching all the oil out of the glazing compound, which can lead to glazing failure. The glazing compound can dry out unevenly if you don't prime, and that could lead to failure of the compound. A lot of people elect not to prime, because like you said, it's a very long process. Why do I like linseed oil? It's just old-school, personal preference. Since most traditional glazing compound is made with linseed oil, I prefer the "like to like" oils. But there certainly is nothing wrong with using oil primer. Thank you for your question! Regards, Leah
Thanks SO much, Leah! Definitely some good-to-know info. Please make more videos! Especially ones concerning historic restorations.
how do you clean up? and do I wait till after the glazing is dried?
I wouldn't attempt to clean the glazing residue from the windows until you have painted the glazing. You can paint once the glazing compound has skinned over. Even after the glazing has been painted you need to be careful, I spray window cleaner on a clean cloth instead of directly on the pane to give better control and prevent over-spray then I just take my time making certain not to make contact with new glazing compound.
seejanedrill thank you! I'll keep that in mind.
My father used to place the tub of putty in an old pan of hot water to soften it.
Good solud advice
👍👍👍👍
You didn't Bed the pane,
You didn't Roll - Force the Glazing Compund in either.
You should also invest in a Proper Glazing Knife.
I was watching a movie on TH-cam, then my Pup knocked the phone off the table and when I picked it up this video was playing.
CR Laurance has a fine selection of Tools and other Glazing Materials.
yes I was a Glazier for many years, I was Field Manager at a Glass Company here in Idaho.
PS.
You will find the Glazing Knife very useful not only for Applying your Compound but also for removing the old Glazing Compund.
thank you,,,,
+melvin hernandez you're welcome!
I used that window glaze brand and it never hardened. First rain and it wrinkled up🤷🏻♂️
how long does it take to dry
+melvin hernandez It can take as much as 2 to 4 weeks to cure or skim over, prior to painting
No painting until then.
How do you remove the window
Good Shit Jane
First you should put a thin layer of compound on the wood to embed the glass into for a better seal.
Next 'prime' the wood with linseed oil, penetrol, floetrol, even paint primer so that the dried wood doesn't suck the moisture out of the glazing compound too quickly. This makes for a slower cure time and better adhesion.
First time glazer here. What you said about the oil makes perfect sense but I’m not replacing the glass should I still use oil in the exposed wood where old glaze has come off? I also heard something about using chalk dust after glazing is complete?
@@BB-cs1je yes, if you want to do it right, you want the wood clean and dry, then apply the linseed oil.
Someone*tried* to reglaze a large window at my house. The original glaze from 60 years ago is still intact on many sides, but the ones done recently didn't prep the wood and it's dried out, cracking and falling off.
Do it right once the first time or do it wrong many times.
@@tresrottn I knew nothing about glazing when I did some windows. I guess that is what happened to me. I had no idea I needed to prime the wood first in some way, or that I needed to consider what I would paint with after that.
@@tresrottn
I need to paint and glaze again. What if I don't know what was on the window originally? And what if I want to use latex paint? Do I still use linseed oil? And, if so, is that just on the part of the window that will be glazed, or do I apply it to the entire window?
@@free2beme773 The linseed oil goes on the wood under the glaze. it never touches the paint. It's to condition the wood to hold the glazing longer.
Honestly, you would do better with an oil based exterior paint, it will last longer and not chalk up. But you can put whatever paint you want on there. As long as the temperature and humidity are good, it will dry fine.
The glazing should be thinner. Most people use the putty knife the long way after using it sideways.
Well, where is your video showing us all how to do it "better", or do you just troll and try to appear superior in TH-cam comments.
Use a stiff putty knife also
🖖 👍
I want a t-shirt with the logo on the front and "you can do this" on the back.
Hey, that is a great idea! we have several t-shirts available on spreadshirt...some with the logo, and some with "You CAN Do This"....but never together.
You forgot to put down a bedding first. To properly do it so window won't rattle in the wind, you first put down some glazing for window to rest against and gently wiggle it in place. Then your points go in. Then glaze outside. Only way I knew this is I watched another video on how to do a professional job. It makes sense.
Yes, and She needs to get a Glaze Knife as well, also she didn't mention that Oil Based Primer is a must for sealing the Dap 33 before Top coating.