Maybe no secret now telling you this, but I went to a hot tube sales an talked to maintenance, where they buy repair sandpaper for spa sales? They sold me a kit sandpaper stips from 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000 grit paper. This kit is really important to me now for all kinds of jobs including what your doing!
Almost every of my used saw's came with a scored cylinder. I cleaned them (with that 3-arm-sander because i dont have a honing-device) and then put a new piston on it. They all run with good Compression. In my opinion a refurbished original cylinder is in most cases better than a aftermarket one (if the scores are not too bad). Very nice lesson, tinman and habe fun with your saws!
I bought a Yamaha dt 50 from the late eighties they were putting in a new piston when I bought it because they thought it had no compression that wasn't the case carburation was the problem the engine had virtually no miles I got a new piston for free after I got it running good I explained to them factory compression is only 6 to1 and it has the same range as your saws 11grand safely I've hit 13 thousand a few times it's a real screamer and you can kick start it with your hand anyday and because of its low compression it runs on low octane fuel the best a real bonus nowadays your video was good thank you!
Great video. I built an Echo cs590 Timberwolf this winter. Had a scored piston. I wasn't sure if I should buy a cylinder or not. Decided to try it. It cleaned up good. I used a worn out flap wheel on my die grinder to remove the aluminum. Far from a textbook approach, but worked very well. Only had a couple small scratches when done, could barely catch them with a fingernail. I base gasket deleted it and did full pressure test when I got done. It runs great for my first two stroke. Being I didnt find any air leaks and it runs perfect without touching the carb I have to assume it was a cold seized or possibly run with a dull chain. It has gotten quite a workout since it has been done, runs great. I have another 590 a 620p and 800p up next. Great channel, thanks for sharing.
You know I really enjoyed this video. Exactly what I needed to know. Took my Ms 260 apart and I've got some scoring on the piston. Debating whether I'm going to rebuild or not. Thanks so much for all the good information nicely done great content!
Worn loose piston in a two stroke means the heat transfer can’t make it from the piston/ chamber to the cylinder for cooling. Thus your engine over heats, runs hot.
I have seen many saws with scuffed piston due to old fuel, If you mix 5 gal, cut 4 or 5 cord of wood and keep the remaining fuel for the next year, you are looking for trouble. The oil breaks down and the gas gets varnish like, and after a tank full or 2 you have a piston scuffed on the exhaust side.
This is the exact video I need. Tomorrow's job is to inspect the piston in by 550XPG...thanks for taking the time to show al those dead pistons; it's just what I needed.
Seeing the inside of that cylinder makes me feel much better about an 044 I just replaced the piston and rings on that is way cleaner than that 562. Haven’t cut anything with it yet but it starts easy and has pretty decent compression. Love your channel, you make some fine content.
I don't use my saw much and I know my tools really well your video showed that I have a lot to learn when it comes to my mechanics thanks man I'm glad it rained over there I learned something today after a hard day failing
The 61 carcauss I got has scored cylinder. It clean up. Im waiting on 2 m5 intake bolts for a while now. See your cylinder I think will. So I'm going to try it just to see if it will run plus I port it for practice.Then someday I'll put 272 top end on it.Good video Tinman
You are very welcome Tinmann. I'm very pleased you like it. I see Buckin is using a scope now. The longer I have mine the more uses I find for it. I used mine to find out why a tool drawer wouldn't open the other day.
When the manufacturer's light came on and they realized chainsaws were lasting too long, thus NOT good for sales, what did they do? In the late 60's they had an extraordinary idea...it was called 50:1 oil mixture. Thus the scoring of cylinders and pistons became a common occurrence.....THAT is just fact. OLD 16:1 chainsaws that used 30 weight MOTOR because there was NO SUCH THING AS MIXING OIL, RARELY if ever had scoring of ANYTHING.
Tree huggers are part of that problem too. Late sixties is when they really started harping on folks about the environment. 1970s OPEC and the oil crisis, then the 1990s when they killed two stroke dirt bikes. But the dirt bike thing was the manufacturers trying to make more money too. Four strokes cost more to build and develop, so they have an excuse to charge more. This started with Yamaha convincing the AMA to let them run the YZ400 four stroke against 250cc two strokes. They won (because the bike also had cheater shit like titanium swingarm etc that lowered weight) and so consumers wanted to buy the same kind of bike that won, a four stroke. That led to other manufacturers building them. Then California CARB basically outlawed two strokes for half the year because "muh environment". Effectively killing two stroke development and cheap effective two stroke bikes and saws
Hey Tinman!! I’m in the process of porting my 562xp….Mine needed a piston and I put a metor into it and neglected to check the wrist pin clip on the already installed side of the piston. I went to start it after just porting the transfers and gutting the muffler and the clip came out and locked up my saw not 5 seconds after start.. both the piston and the cylinder a screwed. I have to start over with the porting. I will never neglect to check the other wrist pin keeper clip again.. live and learn..
Good point about drilling out the exhaust to keep it running cooler. Companies probably need to keep their products running at an acceptable sound level and therefore sacrifice the longevity of the engine, right? I'm not really into the idea of modifying the saw for more power, but if that modification prolongs the service life of the tool then im all ears!
thanks Tinman, that was just the inspiration i needed to restart my j'red 2077 project. it was straight gassed and has mild scoring in the bore, shallow and rounded but still there.
I ordered a cylinder kit from Bailey's for a jonsered 2165 turbo and it came with broken rings.i was building the saw for a friend of mine who's not doing the best in life so it was out of my pocket,but anyways the Piston rings were siezed in the grooves pretty good but I figured I would try an experiment so I took a couple of razor blades and scraped carefully around the rings and amazingly managed to get them out of the old piston.yeah they were grooved a little so I polished them on some wet emry cloth real carefully and long story short ,new cylinder and pin put it back together and he's been running the saw for over a year now and sure it hasnt got brand new poppy but it pulls a 24" bar full comp chisel no prob,even when dogging in so...it is at least possible to reuse old rings.if your are careful and patient it is possible.just FYI.
Bought a cheap Stihl 2023 ms291 a few months ago that was not running, the previous owner straight gassed the saw. when I brought it home I seen it only had max of 25psi of compression took it apart found the piston had deep scoring could easily feel with with my finger nail and was charred with thick black carbon, the cylinder was also very scored with some deep scoring but not too bad near the exhaust port. looked up new parts and seen new OEM cylinders are nearly $300 and aftermarket ones are $100-150 so decided to try to work on this as cheaply as possible so I found a used flex hone (47mm) for $20 off Amazon and a new cheap $30 lil red barn piston and rings. Honed it which got most of he transfer off and used some 240 grit and 600 grit sand paper to try to get as much of the scoring off without taking off too much material after doing all that for a bit of time everything was mostly smooth some areas where there was small deeper scores but way better than before. put everything back together with some new motoseal gasket maker. After letting it cure overnight it fired right up! I have been starting it for the past month on the daily basis to test to make sure everything is still holding up and I have to say I've had no issues so far runs perfectly only thing I had to do was adjust the carb and now I'm getting plus or minus 130 psi compression which isn't the best but it works for what I'm using it for.
thanks for sharing. timely video for me, i'm currently putting an 046 that i bought brand new back together. i was going back and forth about putting a 66 top end on it, i finally decided that the origional mahle jug was salvageable and decided to save some money and just bump the compresh and port it. hyway piston from wolfcreek is coming monday. cheers!
Thank you buddy for sharing your experince again and again. I do own a 562XP, also got it with blown up bearings. And now, she runs like a banshee. Made her a piped muffler, gutted it out and now I´m happy! FYI: Neither Meteor nor Hyway are doing after market kits for the 562XP. There is chinese craps going around ebay. I´m not sure if they are any good. Maybe in a couple of time there will be some good kits. Stay safe! Greets from Germany to CANADA :-)
I too like the autotune, I have a 545 mark 2 (old man saw) 50cc and think it pulls stronger than most saws in its class. I would like to see you and your brother build a pipe for it. I muffler modded mine the same as yours and it helped but think their is more potential with a pipe.
Hate to bother you all. The two saws are a Mac model 47 and a 1952 strunk busy beaver. They are both 70 cc. If anyone-knows of parts and a way to change the old points and condenser please post the info. Thanks again tinman. I appreciate the help sr.
I bought a Husq 440x for $7 from Habitat. Externally, it looks quite new. Habitat couldn’t tell me anything about it, but heck, for $7… Once I got it home, it has no compression. I have yet to tear it down to take a peek inside. Thanks for this video so I’ll know what I’m looking at and how to assess.
Wow that piston was clean on top That opti oil mist be good I use Stihl Hp ultra and I have black pistons I have used the opti but it’s hard to find around here
Good video . Im rebuilding the top end of a new to me 99 polaris xc 700 snowmobile , I was having trouble with it overheating a few minutes past startup , come to find the drive belt for the water pump was broken , I even tested the thermostat before that . Had to buy a carburator just for the obsolete float , someone broke one side off of one , its a bit of a weak design . The carberators are clean and everything set and good now . But I popped tge head to see some alluminum build up in a couple spots on each cylinder , so I pulled the clutxh side cylinder / after giving the engine a quick gunk clean job . The piston had a 5/8" long piece of the ring land broke below the top ring !!!!!!!! It didnt eat it fortunatly . That cylinder has 1 score in it , between tge ports , I'm going to clean the alluminium spots on cylinder with tge proper acid , I think and a light crosshatch directional scotchbright in any trouble spots , clean it and put new proX pistons in it. Wisecos would be over 100 more a set , and cylinders / replated are 275 each! Benn around 2 strokers a fair deal and with a touch of luck they'll be fine for a couple years with a little luck and proper jetting wich I'm good at . Any other suggestions on cylinder clean up ??? It should be a runner they're rated at 125hp , bottom end is good and tight so far , sled only has 2300 miles and looks great 👍
I just pulled the jug on my 661 to replace the piston. It looks exactly the same as that 460 piston due to rocking! Is that just a poor design by Stihl or would a richer mix help that? I run my saws at 50:1 but I’m rethinking that. Thinking about Honda HP2 oil at 32-40:1.
Great information. I have a 562 and did have trouble starting when it was hot. You mentioned following the hot start procedure, what is that procedure? thanks.
Just pick up a junker to rebuild.my 1st Husqarvan it has no top cover or side pull start.no sticker .the cylinder was removed but I have it.The piston is still on the push rod and lower end is not touched.very filthy.how can I find out what model it is?any ideas?
Great video tinman!! Warhawk and "The Duke" make aftermarket cylinders for the 562. I ported and muffler modded my 562 with some tips from Donny Walker. Saw is an absolute beast.... Puts a smile on my face everytime I pull the cord.
Great video. A buddy gave me a locked up 291 that when I freed it up starts and runs hard. Im trying to decide wheather to tear it down and see whats going on or just put a bar on it and run it till it blows.
I used my dads Dolmar 115i for along time but in the end it went in the bin and that was about 5 years ago since then I have had a MS 291 consumer saw and I have had a ms 441cm since November/December 2018 and MS 661 C-M since April 2020 both cracking saws but moronic can sometimes be a pain in the arse as the saws don’t always start but kick like an unhinged mule
Funny that I see this today, last week I bought a 562xp blown up and a new top end is on its way. Maybe I should try the old top end and see if it runs.
So are all these cylinders using a nikasil plating or are these chrome plated?? I can't tell in the video really. How does one clean up a scored chrome bore when you can't use a hone on it? Or am I missing something here? Thanks Tinman for another informative good video! Best regards!
Thanks for the valuable information tinman. It is very helpful. One question sr. I have a Mac model 47 and an old pioneer saw. Both early 1950’s. Are they worth fixing and getting them running? Would like to preserve the history if I could. Thanks for the vid and be safe. God bless.
@@tinmanssaws will do my best sr. If I need hard to find parts could you help me find them sr. Not saying I can’t. Just thought maybe you might know where to get them. Thanks for your help sr.
So which after market piston/cylinder brand after you trying many is the best one in your opinion. I am rebuilding a 455 rancher from 1998 and have a 2000 455 rancher parts saw hit by a tree with no piston movement trying to pull the rope. My 2000 model 365 Husqvarna still has 130 psi and runs great still after cutting 4 cords every year.
What would cause a stihl br380 to run for 5 seconds then die? I can keep it going by choking. I replaced fuel, carb, plug, fuel line, removed spark arrestor, and tried without muffler. All the same before and after. Timing seems good, easy to start, and piston looks good when viewing through exhaust.
Tinman: When buying replacement parts, what brands are you looking at? In a perfect world, we would buy all new manufacturer parts, but it is become prohibitively expensive at times. I deal mostly with Stihl saws, and have used kits from Hyway, Meteor, and even a Warhawk. Some ae Nikasil, some are not. Ive use Caber and Meteor rings mostly.
He's got another video that shows the aftermarket brands he uses for rebuilds. To sum it up, and save you 40mins, he uses Meteor/sabre and Hyway. And shows the small differences in each. Personally I prefer the Meteor/Sabre PC's over the others.. Mainly bc the Sabre rings are better, IMO...
@@jbplays7302 If I can get something a little nicer, but not spend OEM money Im all for it. $20 is nothing in the grand scheme. Ill see if I can find that video. Thanks!
Alot of piston wear comes from runnin 87 octane instead of 91 , pre ignition causing piston to tilt the piston from combustion on one side of the cylinder
In my experience it's your modifications that cause your saws to not start when it's hot, I do siesmic im the winter and utility work the summer in Alberta so that is mostly clearing brush and limbing with the odd big snag here and there so my saws are pretty much wide open all day and I only run my ported saws in the colder months. I knownit sucks but if your working try to sick to stock in the summer and see what happens, my stock 365's and 72's will still sing at 45°C and 60% humidity and my ported ones not so much.
Recently got a low hour MS 461 manufactured in 2020. Piston shows wear at the very bottom of the skirt on the intake side. Its a thin horizontal line on the lowest portion of the skirt. The higher you look on the piston the more defined the machine marks become. On the exhaust side the whole piston looks mint. The cylinder is also in good condition. Saw has lots of compression and sounds normal while running. Does this kind of wear mean much for the life of the top end? Is it inevitable with use or does it indicate any kind of "misuse" by a previous owner?
Can you help?....I got a ROSS chain saw I put anew piston & cylinder but not a bit of compression ... I tried without the gasket and used gasket glue still no compression ...any help is very much appreciate .
I have a MS291 the was gave to me by a buddy. The saw has maybe 10hrs on it but my buddy's dad overreved it constantly during a storm clean up and there is transfer from the piston to cylinder and the saw quit. It isn't ceased but there is definitely friction when you pull the cord. I was looking for a top end kit to just swap it out but don't see many quality options. I can get a Meteor piston kit but not a cylinder (at least I haven't found one). I do plan to attempt to clean the transfer from the oem cylinder. Are there any recommendations on a complete top end kit? If not I'm assuming the Meteor piston should match well with the oem cylinder? Any advice is appreciated! Thanks!
I just picked up a Stihl Pro 036 with a scored piston and barrel. I know what caused it the previous owner forgot to put oil in his fuel! I’d like to salvage the OEM cylinder but don’t know if anyone makes an oversized piston & rings? I will probably try to port it or at least clean up the port’s as I’m only into the saw for the cost of a new 18” chain! So any information would be kindly appreciated.
It seems to me that 50-1 or even 40-1 mix that's all you see on the shelf is the cause of many burnt up saws... My granddaddy ran 12-1 or 16-1 fuel mix in all his daws... I don't think he ever burned one up... Running homolites 5-6 days a week... Curious what the creators thoughts would be on this ???
@@tinmanssaws so i would like to know why 30w 16:1 isn't the most efficient. He also run used gear and motor oil on his bars.. he ran 5 homolites year round for 25yrs I remember . Of course we had a good saw shop in Goodwater Al. Of course he had a hook on his left arm..
At 9.00 min, it shows were theres worn off nikasil and its aluminum there, i have that with my cylinder and just sanded it down and its been runnim good so far i was just gonna ask you thow, do you think that spot will be more prone to seize cuz of aluminum to aluminum or something or does that not really matter.
![[#4596] #자동차 모니터링 #스캐너](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xliXc4sGUgo/mqdefault.jpg)
Maybe no secret now telling you this, but I went to a hot tube sales an talked to maintenance, where they buy repair sandpaper for spa sales? They sold me a kit sandpaper stips from 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000 grit paper. This kit is really important to me now for all kinds of jobs including what your doing!
Link ?
very, Very great educational video.
Bless you Tinman for sharing your wisdom with us. Well done. We want more.
Almost every of my used saw's came with a scored cylinder. I cleaned them (with that 3-arm-sander because i dont have a honing-device) and then put a new piston on it. They all run with good Compression. In my opinion a refurbished original cylinder is in most cases better than a aftermarket one (if the scores are not too bad).
Very nice lesson, tinman and habe fun with your saws!
What " 3-arm-sander" would that be ?
Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge this video was very helpful and informative.
I bought a Yamaha dt 50 from the late eighties they were putting in a new piston when I bought it because they thought it had no compression that wasn't the case carburation was the problem the engine had virtually no miles I got a new piston for free after I got it running good I explained to them factory compression is only 6 to1 and it has the same range as your saws 11grand safely I've hit 13 thousand a few times it's a real screamer and you can kick start it with your hand anyday and because of its low compression it runs on low octane fuel the best a real bonus nowadays your video was good thank you!
Great 2cycle oil and a perfect mixture and tune keeps that saw running.
Great video. I built an Echo cs590 Timberwolf this winter. Had a scored piston. I wasn't sure if I should buy a cylinder or not. Decided to try it. It cleaned up good. I used a worn out flap wheel on my die grinder to remove the aluminum. Far from a textbook approach, but worked very well. Only had a couple small scratches when done, could barely catch them with a fingernail. I base gasket deleted it and did full pressure test when I got done. It runs great for my first two stroke. Being I didnt find any air leaks and it runs perfect without touching the carb I have to assume it was a cold seized or possibly run with a dull chain. It has gotten quite a workout since it has been done, runs great. I have another 590 a 620p and 800p up next. Great channel, thanks for sharing.
You know I really enjoyed this video. Exactly what I needed to know. Took my Ms 260 apart and I've got some scoring on the piston. Debating whether I'm going to rebuild or not. Thanks so much for all the good information nicely done great content!
Worn loose piston in a two stroke means the heat transfer can’t make it from the piston/ chamber to the cylinder for cooling. Thus your engine over heats, runs hot.
I have seen many saws with scuffed piston due to old fuel, If you mix 5 gal, cut 4 or 5 cord of wood and keep the remaining fuel for the next year, you are looking for trouble. The oil breaks down and the gas gets varnish like, and after a tank full or 2 you have a piston scuffed on the exhaust side.
This is the exact video I need. Tomorrow's job is to inspect the piston in by 550XPG...thanks for taking the time to show al those dead pistons; it's just what I needed.
You never talk about gaskets leaking air causing cyl damage ,most of the damage with air leaks if not found will burn a brand new cyl up .
Seeing the inside of that cylinder makes me feel much better about an 044 I just replaced the piston and rings on that is way cleaner than that 562. Haven’t cut anything with it yet but it starts easy and has pretty decent compression.
Love your channel, you make some fine content.
I like your video because you are a straight up guy who knows his chainsaws and willing to share your findings and experiences with us. Thank you.
I don't use my saw much and I know my tools really well your video showed that I have a lot to learn when it comes to my mechanics thanks man I'm glad it rained over there I learned something today after a hard day failing
Thank you for the plane talk master class. Really learned from this.
The 61 carcauss I got has scored cylinder. It clean up. Im waiting on 2 m5 intake bolts for a while now. See your cylinder I think will. So I'm going to try it just to see if it will run plus I port it for practice.Then someday I'll put 272 top end on it.Good video Tinman
It amazes me how some folks just know all this stuff like it was normal. Damn.
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
You are very welcome Tinmann. I'm very pleased you like it. I see Buckin is using a scope now.
The longer I have mine the more uses I find for it.
I used mine to find out why a tool drawer wouldn't open the other day.
Lol I used mine to see if an oring was stuck in the block pf my diesel. Its a very handy tool for sute
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
The 562 is one of the best all around saws I have ever owned. It is very capable of running a 32 inch bar.
Really good info buddy! Thanks for taking the time to explain all those problems! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
When the manufacturer's light came on and they realized chainsaws were lasting too long, thus NOT good for sales, what did they do? In the late 60's they had an extraordinary idea...it was called 50:1 oil mixture. Thus the scoring of cylinders and pistons became a common occurrence.....THAT is just fact. OLD 16:1 chainsaws that used 30 weight MOTOR because there was NO SUCH THING AS MIXING OIL, RARELY if ever had scoring of ANYTHING.
Tree huggers are part of that problem too. Late sixties is when they really started harping on folks about the environment. 1970s OPEC and the oil crisis, then the 1990s when they killed two stroke dirt bikes. But the dirt bike thing was the manufacturers trying to make more money too. Four strokes cost more to build and develop, so they have an excuse to charge more. This started with Yamaha convincing the AMA to let them run the YZ400 four stroke against 250cc two strokes. They won (because the bike also had cheater shit like titanium swingarm etc that lowered weight) and so consumers wanted to buy the same kind of bike that won, a four stroke. That led to other manufacturers building them. Then California CARB basically outlawed two strokes for half the year because "muh environment". Effectively killing two stroke development and cheap effective two stroke bikes and saws
Yes dull chains I try to explain that to people but they don’t get it
Hey Tinman!! I’m in the process of porting my 562xp….Mine needed a piston and I put a metor into it and neglected to check the wrist pin clip on the already installed side of the piston. I went to start it after just porting the transfers and gutting the muffler and the clip came out and locked up my saw not 5 seconds after start.. both the piston and the cylinder a screwed. I have to start over with the porting. I will never neglect to check the other wrist pin keeper clip again.. live and learn..
Ive lost a saw to a wrist pin circlip failure. It happens.
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
Very good info it's nice to actually see the damage with explanation 👍👍
You take chances and break the rules. I love it. You also get us thinking. Great content as always.
This was a really informative video. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experiences.
Hay Tin man, I enjoy your information and have learnt a little more
Many thanks
chocice
Sherwood Forest England
Good point about drilling out the exhaust to keep it running cooler. Companies probably need to keep their products running at an acceptable sound level and therefore sacrifice the longevity of the engine, right? I'm not really into the idea of modifying the saw for more power, but if that modification prolongs the service life of the tool then im all ears!
thanks Tinman, that was just the inspiration i needed to restart my j'red 2077 project.
it was straight gassed and has mild scoring in the bore, shallow and rounded but still there.
I ordered a cylinder kit from Bailey's for a jonsered 2165 turbo and it came with broken rings.i was building the saw for a friend of mine who's not doing the best in life so it was out of my pocket,but anyways the Piston rings were siezed in the grooves pretty good but I figured I would try an experiment so I took a couple of razor blades and scraped carefully around the rings and amazingly managed to get them out of the old piston.yeah they were grooved a little so I polished them on some wet emry cloth real carefully and long story short ,new cylinder and pin put it back together and he's been running the saw for over a year now and sure it hasnt got brand new poppy but it pulls a 24" bar full comp chisel no prob,even when dogging in so...it is at least possible to reuse old rings.if your are careful and patient it is possible.just FYI.
Thanks for sharing this is great information for some of us!!
Your spot on on the 562 performance for a 60cc
Explanation of what to look for in bother cylinder, and piston for the amount of ware. I have some McCulloch saws that I want to rebuild.
Thank you.
Great video Tin man learned a bunch! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Bought a cheap Stihl 2023 ms291 a few months ago that was not running, the previous owner straight gassed the saw. when I brought it home I seen it only had max of 25psi of compression took it apart found the piston had deep scoring could easily feel with with my finger nail and was charred with thick black carbon, the cylinder was also very scored with some deep scoring but not too bad near the exhaust port. looked up new parts and seen new OEM cylinders are nearly $300 and aftermarket ones are $100-150 so decided to try to work on this as cheaply as possible so I found a used flex hone (47mm) for $20 off Amazon and a new cheap $30 lil red barn piston and rings. Honed it which got most of he transfer off and used some 240 grit and 600 grit sand paper to try to get as much of the scoring off without taking off too much material after doing all that for a bit of time everything was mostly smooth some areas where there was small deeper scores but way better than before. put everything back together with some new motoseal gasket maker. After letting it cure overnight it fired right up! I have been starting it for the past month on the daily basis to test to make sure everything is still holding up and I have to say I've had no issues so far runs perfectly only thing I had to do was adjust the carb and now I'm getting plus or minus 130 psi compression which isn't the best but it works for what I'm using it for.
thats what i need auto tune i have a have time starting in the morning lol///// god info well done
Coffee!
thanks for sharing. timely video for me, i'm currently putting an 046 that i bought brand new back together. i was going back and forth about putting a 66 top end on it, i finally decided that the origional mahle jug was salvageable and decided to save some money and just bump the compresh and port it. hyway piston from wolfcreek is coming monday. cheers!
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
Thank you buddy for sharing your experince again and again. I do own a 562XP, also got it with blown up bearings. And now, she runs like a banshee. Made her a piped muffler, gutted it out and now I´m happy!
FYI: Neither Meteor nor Hyway are doing after market kits for the 562XP. There is chinese craps going around ebay. I´m not sure if they are any good. Maybe in a couple of time there will be some good kits.
Stay safe! Greets from Germany to CANADA :-)
I too like the autotune, I have a 545 mark 2 (old man saw) 50cc and think it pulls stronger than most saws in its class. I would like to see you and your brother build a pipe for it. I muffler modded mine the same as yours and it helped but think their is more potential with a pipe.
Hate to bother you all. The two saws are a Mac model 47 and a 1952 strunk busy beaver. They are both 70 cc. If anyone-knows of parts and a way to change the old points and condenser please post the info. Thanks again tinman. I appreciate the help sr.
Great video to come home an watch after a long days work
I bought a Husq 440x for $7 from Habitat. Externally, it looks quite new. Habitat couldn’t tell me anything about it, but heck, for $7…
Once I got it home, it has no compression. I have yet to tear it down to take a peek inside.
Thanks for this video so I’ll know what I’m looking at and how to assess.
I love my 562 they ripp have had bearing issues yes but over all thumbs up I run a 30 inch on mine
Yes, you teach me, and well. But here is the deal: YOU MAKE ME HAPPY !
Hope you start to tune one of those 5 series soon! They get bananas after good porting and a good MM.
Wow that piston was clean on top
That opti oil mist be good
I use Stihl Hp ultra and I have black pistons I have used the opti but it’s hard to find around here
Good video . Im rebuilding the top end of a new to me 99 polaris xc 700 snowmobile , I was having trouble with it overheating a few minutes past startup , come to find the drive belt for the water pump was broken , I even tested the thermostat before that . Had to buy a carburator just for the obsolete float , someone broke one side off of one , its a bit of a weak design . The carberators are clean and everything set and good now . But I popped tge head to see some alluminum build up in a couple spots on each cylinder , so I pulled the clutxh side cylinder / after giving the engine a quick gunk clean job . The piston had a 5/8" long piece of the ring land broke below the top ring !!!!!!!! It didnt eat it fortunatly . That cylinder has 1 score in it , between tge ports , I'm going to clean the alluminium spots on cylinder with tge proper acid , I think and a light crosshatch directional scotchbright in any trouble spots , clean it and put new proX pistons in it. Wisecos would be over 100 more a set , and cylinders / replated are 275 each! Benn around 2 strokers a fair deal and with a touch of luck they'll be fine for a couple years with a little luck and proper jetting wich I'm good at . Any other suggestions on cylinder clean up ??? It should be a runner they're rated at 125hp , bottom end is good and tight so far , sled only has 2300 miles and looks great 👍
I just pulled the jug on my 661 to replace the piston. It looks exactly the same as that 460 piston due to rocking! Is that just a poor design by Stihl or would a richer mix help that? I run my saws at 50:1 but I’m rethinking that. Thinking about Honda HP2 oil at 32-40:1.
Hello from Piqua Ohio. Keep up the good work!
Piqua,The home of HAM
You stihl guys 😅 I am learning so many new ideas watching you friend thank you!
Thanks ol buddy , keep em coming
I have 560xpg over 600h sawed shaw and it's still running like hell. I made muffler mod like you couple of years ago and it make the saw even better.
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
Piston number #2 that is called piston slap! Nasty stuff
Great information. I have a 562 and did have trouble starting when it was hot. You mentioned following the hot start procedure, what is that procedure? thanks.
Me too😵💫
lift to choke mode then push it down again then pull :)
Just pick up a junker to rebuild.my 1st Husqarvan it has no top cover or side pull start.no sticker .the cylinder was removed but I have it.The piston is still on the push rod and lower end is not touched.very filthy.how can I find out what model it is?any ideas?
Question for you Tinman. Could you hone that cylinder?
My first saw was a horribly scored 041 I was a kid I cleaned it up and ran it cutting firewood for 3 years
When replace piston rings?
HL supply sells a warhawk topend for the 562 it's under a $100
Is Warhawk any good? I saw that and was curious.
@@gcrsmallengine8836 not sure personally I haven't tried it but I've seen other you tubers that built saw use them and said they work Ok
Great video tinman!! Warhawk and "The Duke" make aftermarket cylinders for the 562. I ported and muffler modded my 562 with some tips from Donny Walker. Saw is an absolute beast.... Puts a smile on my face everytime I pull the cord.
This has to be the reason my 620p get hot I have tried everything else This must be it.
Cheers Tinman. 👍
Great video. A buddy gave me a locked up 291 that when I freed it up starts and runs hard. Im trying to decide wheather to tear it down and see whats going on or just put a bar on it and run it till it blows.
I used my dads Dolmar 115i for along time but in the end it went in the bin and that was about 5 years ago since then I have had a MS 291 consumer saw and I have had a ms 441cm since November/December 2018 and MS 661 C-M since April 2020 both cracking saws but moronic can sometimes be a pain in the arse as the saws don’t always start but kick like an unhinged mule
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
I bought a husky cylinder and piston kit for a 562 in the states for 150 buks. Complete bottom end for same price
How are you doing tinman? I've got a poulan 4000 tore down at the moment. Cleanup and new gaskets and seals. Great videos as usual enjoy your weekend.
Funny that I see this today, last week I bought a 562xp blown up and a new top end is on its way. Maybe I should try the old top end and see if it runs.
So are all these cylinders using a nikasil plating or are these chrome plated?? I can't tell in the video really. How does one clean up a scored chrome bore when you can't use a hone on it? Or am I missing something here?
Thanks Tinman for another informative good video!
Best regards!
What causes this on a 2 stroke more is a lack of 2 stroke oil mixed with the petrol. The oil is only for lubricant. Ps don't false a tool as well
Hey from Saskatoon, awesome video, loved the honesty, new sub for sure.
Welcome Billy.
I have the 562 cut the exaust and remove the internal duct then re weld , the temperatures of cilynder drop down
As always great vid and great info. Be safe and be careful
For the 562
Thanks for the valuable information tinman. It is very helpful. One question sr. I have a Mac model 47 and an old pioneer saw. Both early 1950’s. Are they worth fixing and getting them running? Would like to preserve the history if I could. Thanks for the vid and be safe. God bless.
Get em running. Those old powersaws are fun to run!!
@@tinmanssaws will do my best sr. If I need hard to find parts could you help me find them sr. Not saying I can’t. Just thought maybe you might know where to get them. Thanks for your help sr.
Very enjoyable. I got to get 1 of those cameras.
So which after market piston/cylinder brand after you trying many is the best one in your opinion. I am rebuilding a 455 rancher from 1998 and have a 2000 455 rancher parts saw hit by a tree with no piston movement trying to pull the rope. My 2000 model 365 Husqvarna still has 130 psi and runs great still after cutting 4 cords every year.
That sure helps me in my shop. Thanks
What would cause a stihl br380 to run for 5 seconds then die? I can keep it going by choking. I replaced fuel, carb, plug, fuel line, removed spark arrestor, and tried without muffler. All the same before and after. Timing seems good, easy to start, and piston looks good when viewing through exhaust.
Probably a massive air leak
Tinman: When buying replacement parts, what brands are you looking at? In a perfect world, we would buy all new manufacturer parts, but it is become prohibitively expensive at times. I deal mostly with Stihl saws, and have used kits from Hyway, Meteor, and even a Warhawk. Some ae Nikasil, some are not. Ive use Caber and Meteor rings mostly.
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
He's got another video that shows the aftermarket brands he uses for rebuilds. To sum it up, and save you 40mins, he uses Meteor/sabre and Hyway. And shows the small differences in each.
Personally I prefer the Meteor/Sabre PC's over the others.. Mainly bc the Sabre rings are better, IMO...
@@jbplays7302 If I can get something a little nicer, but not spend OEM money Im all for it. $20 is nothing in the grand scheme. Ill see if I can find that video. Thanks!
Alot of piston wear comes from runnin 87 octane instead of 91 , pre ignition causing piston to tilt the piston from combustion on one side of the cylinder
🤔
I can only get 87 non eth so i put 1oz 108 octane booster per gal and a little rich w a 32 : 1 mix
@@sundial6919 that's smart of you, thankfully our non ethanol is 91
Great video Tinman, thanks.
Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
So how do you clean off the melted aluminum off the cylinder walls.
i thought i saw someone use muriatic acid
In my experience it's your modifications that cause your saws to not start when it's hot, I do siesmic im the winter and utility work the summer in Alberta so that is mostly clearing brush and limbing with the odd big snag here and there so my saws are pretty much wide open all day and I only run my ported saws in the colder months. I knownit sucks but if your working try to sick to stock in the summer and see what happens, my stock 365's and 72's will still sing at 45°C and 60% humidity and my ported ones not so much.
If you wanted a mid size saw to do it all while staying under $400 with at least a 28” bar, what would you recommend?
Recently got a low hour MS 461 manufactured in 2020. Piston shows wear at the very bottom of the skirt on the intake side. Its a thin horizontal line on the lowest portion of the skirt. The higher you look on the piston the more defined the machine marks become.
On the exhaust side the whole piston looks mint. The cylinder is also in good condition. Saw has lots of compression and sounds normal while running.
Does this kind of wear mean much for the life of the top end? Is it inevitable with use or does it indicate any kind of "misuse" by a previous owner?
Good video. I’m saving it for reference.
Thank you for expanding my knowege :)
what do you think of those pop-up pistons Little Red Barn sells?
Can you help?....I got a ROSS chain saw I put anew piston & cylinder but not a bit of compression ...
I tried without the gasket and used gasket glue still no compression ...any help is very much appreciate .
Great info! Love this stuff! Keep it up!
I have a MS291 the was gave to me by a buddy. The saw has maybe 10hrs on it but my buddy's dad overreved it constantly during a storm clean up and there is transfer from the piston to cylinder and the saw quit. It isn't ceased but there is definitely friction when you pull the cord. I was looking for a top end kit to just swap it out but don't see many quality options. I can get a Meteor piston kit but not a cylinder (at least I haven't found one). I do plan to attempt to clean the transfer from the oem cylinder. Are there any recommendations on a complete top end kit? If not I'm assuming the Meteor piston should match well with the oem cylinder? Any advice is appreciated! Thanks!
i love this channel ...great teacher
Do you believe that carbon residues from the muffler's side might score the pistons as well?
I just picked up a Stihl Pro 036 with a scored piston and barrel. I know what caused it the previous owner forgot to put oil in his fuel! I’d like to salvage the OEM cylinder but don’t know if anyone makes an oversized piston & rings? I will probably try to port it or at least clean up the port’s as I’m only into the saw for the cost of a new 18” chain! So any information would be kindly appreciated.
I bought a complete bottom end fro HL supply for $170
Can you use a new piston with a pop up for a husky on a McCullouch 610 if they are the same mm?
It seems to me that 50-1 or even 40-1 mix that's all you see on the shelf is the cause of many burnt up saws... My granddaddy ran 12-1 or 16-1 fuel mix in all his daws... I don't think he ever burned one up... Running homolites 5-6 days a week...
Curious what the creators thoughts would be on this ???
In the old days they mixed straight 30w oil im the gas so that's why the mixes were so heavy on the oil.
@@tinmanssaws so i would like to know why 30w 16:1 isn't the most efficient. He also run used gear and motor oil on his bars.. he ran 5 homolites year round for 25yrs I remember . Of course we had a good saw shop in Goodwater Al. Of course he had a hook on his left arm..
At 9.00 min, it shows were theres worn off nikasil and its aluminum there, i have that with my cylinder and just sanded it down and its been runnim good so far i was just gonna ask you thow, do you think that spot will be more prone to seize cuz of aluminum to aluminum or something or does that not really matter.
9:56 I think what he means is mushrooms are a safer route
Are single ring pistons apt to have more skirt wear?