I don't even own an Accord but I know someone who does. I was surprised that Honda designed these brakes a lot more complex than needed. This guy put up a very clear video on how to replace those rotors. Great job, great video! Just noticed the name of the channel. Hilarious!
First time I took the wheel off to do a brake job on my old 94 accord from back in the day. Rage! Why! As I cried to the heavens. How is this better? What where they thinking!
great job big man! It's very interesting how HONDA made the disc on accord, it's a bit of a hassle to change, but i guess they had a reason to do it like that. Thank you for video, I was scared I might need to use a hydraulic press for the bearing.
Thank you for your informative video 👍 Just what I needed to replace my rotors on my 97 Accord SE 😁 She’s my daily commuter with over 280K on the clock.
You still working on accords ? I stopped by your shop about 3 years ago for some work just about the best guy I know when it comes to accords , keep it up bro
I want to said is the same size or thinner just to bang the rotor out. Or get the same ones but longer and one's you tight them it will push the rotor out. Hope it makes sense. But I will try it on my accord. Still want to know what bolts he use . 👍
The 94-97 Service manual states that the four flange bolts are 10 x 1.25 mm thread and the torque spec is 44 N-m (= 33 lbf-ft [foot pounds]) when tightening them back up when done. I don't know how long they are.
Great vid. Thanks for the info! Kind of a noob here without air impact. Is there a way to get that axle nut and 4 bolts off of the rotor without air tools?
same issue here, the bolts for tires and upper suspension arm (I think it's called) we tied them up together very tight so its turning. then get a breaker bar to turn them lose.
Pretty much need a air or power tool. I have a dewalt impact driver that worked fine, trust me a breaker bar won't work unless you have 2 breaker bars and 2 people that are both really strong
The 94-97 Service manual states that the four flange bolts are 10 x 1.25 mm thread and the torque spec is 44 N-m (= 33 lbf-ft [foot pounds]) when tightening them back up when done. I don't know how long they are.
I need those 4 bolts that go behind of rotor connectong to knuckle! Any idea what size/thread style they are? I damaged 2 removving rotor with the hammer trick and dont want to go to junk yard a 3rd time!
@@Carflip I went to 2 junk yards and was only able to get 1 and traveled 30miles to a honda to get one. It's the removing all the other parts to get them and the constant freezing. Worst design ever
I’m sure this is a dumb question but what keeps the caliper in the bracket? The threads are on the actual caliper which is on the outside of the bracket, so like how does it stay on?
Get a propane/map torch and heat up the area around the bolt, don't get it red hot but evenly heat it for about 10-15 seconds, hit it with a hammer, if that doesn't break it loose repeat the process just make sure not to catch your car on fire
We have a 97 Accord and the axle nut was a little bit loose. I noticed there's no cotter pin. A shop replaced brake pads. What is the torque setting for that 36 mm axle nut? And do i make a indentation in the thin part of nut at the axle gap?
The factory service manual says MORE than 95 foot pounds (almost twice that). It says "245 N-m (25 kgf-m, 181 lbf-ft [foot pounds])." It states that "after tightening, use a drift [punch] to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft."
If anyone was curious the bolts are 10x1.25x60 I could only find 50mm long which worked fine. If it dosnt seem to work switch to the other 2 holes I had to switch back and forth cause driver side was stuck.
Went to go do my brakes like any other car and tried to pull rotor off and was like wtf. So now im here and who the fuck has a 36mm on hand like bro?? F u honda for this shitty design but i still love it
Would have been nice to know there is a snap ring in between the lower ball joint and lower assembly. I wasted a hole day hammering and messed up the ball joint thread and now I need a new one. :'-(
@@lostmy10mm80 Its not your fault. I eventually had to use a pickling fork to separate the ball joint. None of the videos I watched used that tool. Makes it so much easier than constantly hammering. Also I know you don't have to remove the entire knuckle, but in my experience it made the job way easier. Its only removing the 3 castle nuts and cotter pins. Then hammering out the rotor is a breeze with the long 10x1.25 bolts screwed in the bearing. Just a few extra steps.
I don't even own an Accord but I know someone who does. I was surprised that Honda designed these brakes a lot more complex than needed. This guy put up a very clear video on how to replace those rotors. Great job, great video! Just noticed the name of the channel. Hilarious!
10.9- M10-1.25 x 60mm bolt size works. Dorman part# 459-560
Just what i was looking for
First time I took the wheel off to do a brake job on my old 94 accord from back in the day. Rage! Why! As I cried to the heavens. How is this better? What where they thinking!
You made the process look smooth, thanks. All without opening a finger.
3:25 keep the nut on while hammering to avoid damaging the threads.
Great video. You make it look simple but I know it’s gonna be a struggle when i do it.
great job big man! It's very interesting how HONDA made the disc on accord, it's a bit of a hassle to change, but i guess they had a reason to do it like that. Thank you for video, I was scared I might need to use a hydraulic press for the bearing.
Great video !!! I’m tackling mine as soon as my parts get here !
Thank you for your informative video 👍 Just what I needed to replace my rotors on my 97 Accord SE 😁 She’s my daily commuter with over 280K on the clock.
What size bolts did you use to get out the hub?
10.9- M10-1.25 x 60mm bolt size works. Dorman part# 459-560
You still working on accords ? I stopped by your shop about 3 years ago for some work just about the best guy I know when it comes to accords , keep it up bro
Dud u made that look so easy..I know I can do it now
P
Nice video bro. Now im gonna do mine hopefully i dont run into no trouble.
What size bolts were those from the hardware store you used to hammer the bearing out
I want to said is the same size or thinner just to bang the rotor out. Or get the same ones but longer and one's you tight them it will push the rotor out. Hope it makes sense. But I will try it on my accord. Still want to know what bolts he use . 👍
The 94-97 Service manual states that the four flange bolts are 10 x 1.25 mm thread and the torque spec is 44 N-m (= 33 lbf-ft [foot pounds]) when tightening them back up when done. I don't know how long they are.
What size are the bolts you use from the hardware store to hammer out the hub from the control arm? @4:59
Thanks for the detailed example, very helpful!
Such a professional job 👍👍👍
Thanks, made it look easy.
Forgot what’s that grey thing is but you didn’t have to put that at on axle before feeding it thru the hole ?
Great vid. Thanks for the info! Kind of a noob here without air impact. Is there a way to get that axle nut and 4 bolts off of the rotor without air tools?
same issue here, the bolts for tires and upper suspension arm (I think it's called) we tied them up together very tight so its turning. then get a breaker bar to turn them lose.
Pretty much need a air or power tool. I have a dewalt impact driver that worked fine, trust me a breaker bar won't work unless you have 2 breaker bars and 2 people that are both really strong
Yea I’m pretty sure I did this wrong way and I ended up snapping my axle 😂
Breaker bar and a pipe on the end for leverage.... More leverage the longer the pipe 😉 something will give, always does.
Are the bolts from the hardware store longer??
Thanks. Guess I don't need the dynamite after all now that I know about the two bolts.
What size bolt did u pick up at the hardware store to punch the wheel hub off the rotor
still need an answer to this……
Most likely the same size or a size lower as long as it fits the thread to go straight thru
The 94-97 Service manual states that the four flange bolts are 10 x 1.25 mm thread and the torque spec is 44 N-m (= 33 lbf-ft [foot pounds]) when tightening them back up when done. I don't know how long they are.
I need those 4 bolts that go behind of rotor connectong to knuckle! Any idea what size/thread style they are? I damaged 2 removving rotor with the hammer trick and dont want to go to junk yard a 3rd time!
Did you end up finding them?
@@Carflip I went to 2 junk yards and was only able to get 1 and traveled 30miles to a honda to get one. It's the removing all the other parts to get them and the constant freezing. Worst design ever
@@bbblahoo7 damn. I guess i will be visiting my local junk yard this weekend
I’m sure this is a dumb question but what keeps the caliper in the bracket? The threads are on the actual caliper which is on the outside of the bracket, so like how does it stay on?
I tried hitting the lower ball joint but it didn't loosen the ball joint pin. Any recommendations?
Get a propane/map torch and heat up the area around the bolt, don't get it red hot but evenly heat it for about 10-15 seconds, hit it with a hammer, if that doesn't break it loose repeat the process just make sure not to catch your car on fire
any number or where to find that long bolts?
We have a 97 Accord and the axle nut was a little bit loose. I noticed there's no cotter pin. A shop replaced brake pads. What is the torque setting for that 36 mm axle nut? And do i make a indentation in the thin part of nut at the axle gap?
Dosnt have to have a pin justbent the nut slightly and I believe it’s 95lb
The factory service manual says MORE than 95 foot pounds (almost twice that). It says "245 N-m (25 kgf-m, 181 lbf-ft [foot pounds])." It states that "after tightening, use a drift [punch] to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft."
What about the cotter pin bolt?? How do you put the cotter pin back on? And what kind of greese are you using?
Do you kno what size bolts you used from hardware store
If anyone was curious the bolts are 10x1.25x60 I could only find 50mm long which worked fine. If it dosnt seem to work switch to the other 2 holes I had to switch back and forth cause driver side was stuck.
@@Jediknightbong Thanks for letting us know!
Yea what size bolts did u use
10.9- M10-1.25 x 60mm bolt size works. Dorman part# 459-560
Very detailed, I love it, great job Marco
So u don’t have to change the wheel barring ?
No
awesome video, thank you!
Excellent A+ clip bro!
What do you do when they don’t come off
Thank you 🙏
Gained at least 4 HP!
Went to go do my brakes like any other car and tried to pull rotor off and was like wtf. So now im here and who the fuck has a 36mm on hand like bro?? F u honda for this shitty design but i still love it
Nice bro. Ty 👊🏼
Step by step ftw!
60$ for all four... this is why I want to keep my Honda
You didn't have a pin for your castle nut at all????
Great video thanks
you were able to rotate that cause you had that on the lift if not you wouldve had to loosen the outer tie rod too
Would have been nice to know there is a snap ring in between the lower ball joint and lower assembly. I wasted a hole day hammering and messed up the ball joint thread and now I need a new one. :'-(
I’m sorry if I mislead you .
But there should be no reason to remove lower ball joint from spindle for this repair.
@@lostmy10mm80 Its not your fault. I eventually had to use a pickling fork to separate the ball joint. None of the videos I watched used that tool. Makes it so much easier than constantly hammering.
Also I know you don't have to remove the entire knuckle, but in my experience it made the job way easier. Its only removing the 3 castle nuts and cotter pins. Then hammering out the rotor is a breeze with the long 10x1.25 bolts screwed in the bearing. Just a few extra steps.
I did the same thing bro
Subbed cause channel name
This job is such a nightmare for me
Why would they make these rotors so stupid to replace?!
Right? I tried to replace it myself today but did not realize how stupid it was compared to some other cars
2024 and it's still stupid
um wheres the timing cover? thats asking for trouble
damn u we’re definitely quicker than my shop i paid like 700 in labor
This is bullshit… really Honda?? 🤣
Sus
Such a garbage design. I'm just now doing my rotors. Thought it was just going to be like other normal vehicle. Trash.