How to cure the inside of HOLLOW prints. EASY DIY Solution

In this video, we tackle a common problem that many resin 3D printing enthusiasts face: uncured resin inside hollow prints.
I hope you find this DIY solution helpful, and let me know any tips you have in the comments!
List of what you need:
UV LED (in the right wavelength for your resin)
battery connector
battery
resistor
soldering iron
GOOD LUCK!!!
Instagram: / habeshobbies
music: epidemic sound
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00:00 Intro
00:17 Why we cure the inside
00:43 Why you need holes
00:57 How to get a UV light inside?
01:38 The Solution
01:51 Disclaimer
02:06 What you need
03:16 Putting it together
04:12 How long to cure for?

[@Habes]

UPDATES to video.
1. USE A RESISTOR
Thank you to Meep Changling for educating us on the purpose for the resistor. Just because it turns on, doesn't mean it's good.
2. SOLDERING TIP
T. Cooper suggests wrapping the wires before soldering so you don't need to be an octupus trying to hold them altogether.
3. HEAT SHRINK SLEEVES
TEGFB suggests using sleeves that heat shrink to streamline the design and make it easier to navigate deeper into your prints.
4. ADD SWITCH
As the battery connector isn't designed for frequent disconnects and may wear out from it.
Less than a day and already so many great tips.

[@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel]

Great idea, thank you for sharing

[@ltGargoyle]

awesome video. i have painted several models for others that were made with resin. and they cracked and wrecked the paint job. when i get into printing i will be using this method.

[@HomemadeJam3D]

I made a video about a year ago on curing the inside of my prints using a fiber optic cable. Check it out if you're so inclined. 😊 I LOVE doing it this way. No soldering, or having to worry about fitting an led up inside my models. I can cure miniature things and just use a 2mm fiber optic cable. Great video!

[@goforitpainting]

Thank you for sharing.

[@Habes]

No worries. Hope it was helpful!

[@MrBizteck]

Good idea. I have a cheal UV keyring light. I found it so free! But I never thought of testing it on an uncurded piece! I better do that as I normally only put it inside for 90 seconds or so.

[@Habes]

Thanks MeBizteck!

[@tomcooper8217]

for those soldering, hot tip you can wrap the wires around each other to make it easier to solder instead of trying to have 8 hands to hold the wires together whole soldering

[@Habes]

Yeah I should have thought of that. Thanks Tom!

[@zac2877]

ty 4 this

[@knightsljx]

here's a real soldering tip, you don't need a solder iron for simple wiring jobs. just twist the ends together with a piece of solder wire then hit it with a lighter and you're done. in this case, wrap the wire around the lead, then the solder wire around the joint

[@liamjoseph992]

Excellent vid. If you don't make it hollow how would a thick resin part cure? Just take forever internally? Also how did you hollow it out?

[@Habes]

If it's completely solid, the inside is cured during the printing process as each layer is follow cured by the printer.
The hollowing in does in the slicer. You select wall thickness etc. I'd only do it on big stuff. If it's a model like a space marine it's not worth it.

[@MeepChangeling]

Do not, under any circumstances, EVER drive a LED without a resistor UNLESS your battery is EXACTLY the voltage the LED needs. Why not? Well, do you want to replace the LED every few uses? Imagine if you put gas containing some desil fule into your car. Would it run? Probably. Will it last for a long time? NO! With electronics, just because it turns on doesn't mean its okay to run like that. LEDs do not like being over volted by much at all. INfact, you should be picking a resistor that will drop the voltage from whatever you're feeding into it specifically to what that LED specifically needs to run.
ALso with a 9v you could run two of those UV LEDs in series. So you could have the + wire going to a resistor, then one LED, then some more wire, and another LED, then the - wire. This would mean you could do two holes at once, and it wouldn't take all that much more current so you'd still get about 10 hours of power from the 9v. I'd also recommend adding a switch to prevent wear and tear on the battery connector. Those are not meant for frequent disconnects.

[@Habes]

Thanks. I really appreciate you sharing that. I've added "use a resistor" as no.1 in the pinned comment.
I'll have to look into adding a switch.
So many good ideas to add to resin snake 2.0.
Have a great week mate!

[@slimjim7411]

These lights are like 30 for $7 my advice is to solder several in series and then you can stick them in multiple holes to cure the inside faster.

[@Habes]

That's a good idea! Ty 😁

[@debadwolf9727]

Where do you buy them? A link to the lights would be most helpful.

[@zac2877]

thats....
...what.
..........she
said?

[@figuresix]

That print from archvillain games is reason I left patreaon of them. Loved the look of the print, but after 6 times trying to print it changing setting every time, it would never come out right. Gates were to fragile, swords would break. Mist would snap or be deformed. Not the only print I had issues with from them. Never had those kinds of issue with anything else I print. Hell just printed a huge statue from Galactic armor, and every piece came out perfect the first time. Archvillian looks great, but im sorry their designs are crap.

[@Habes]

Thanks, yeah I've had a few fails with them. Since it was such a small sample, and I'm using a fairly new printer for me I put it down as most likely user error.
Thanks for the heads up.

[@phantom246]

you didn't trim the exposed wires. leave about 2mm of wire on led and resistor. you can solder the resistor close to the battery so the led has flexible wires, so you can snake it in a model. you can also sand the led to a smaller size then polish smooth.
trim that shit up 🟣==========🕳=====~==🔋

[@Habes]

Those are some good tips. Might make those additions to version 2.0