To properly remove the clock bezel it needs to stay on the dash pad until the dash pad is removed. There are two mounting tabs that hold the clock bezel to the dash pad from the inside and can only be removed when the dash pad is off the car. These tabs and screws are at 6 and 9 o'clock. I learned the hard way by breaking one tab.
Thanks for providing that tip. I could see how that may be better so it doesn't get damaged. You'd have to reach back there and disconnect the clock wiring first before it is pulled out with the dash pad. The drivers side dash is much better secured.
nice work better video than most on here, thanks. I need to change my speedo cable, once the dash pad is off can the speedo cable be accessed and removed from the speedometer?
@@SmackeysGarage so I don't need to remove the dash pad? Can I pull the gauge panel forward enough to access the speedo cable? Sorry I've never had a 69 mustang dash apart before,.
@@auntron5450 You definitely need to remove the dash pad if you can't get to it from underneath (I've never tried that). The top screws for the gauges are behind the dash pad. Also, no worries at all! You learn a lot by taking these apart.
Im working on my 70....leaving the old wiring but adding new wire one ckt at a time....first headlight, then side markers...then brakes etc....adding relays under the hood on the front left next to radiator...Relays are fantasitic...imho
That's a great way to do it. I have relays on the headlights for my car. It made them so much brighter than stock. You can grab the old wiring diagrams if you ever want to build one out of the car and then put it in.
@@SmackeysGarage I tried the out of the car build and the in the car build...in the car is much easier...as long as you have the plan of attack...I decided to leave the old wiring in as a i go, then when im completly satisfied with the new stuff, ill go in and rip out the old....tedius as pHK...imho...but like you say, it makes all the difference..I went behind the dash like you did, spent hours dissecting....the hell with it...most of that stufff you'll never use...
@@davidwright873 You're exactly right. It's much easier to do when in the car but TEDIOUS. The nice part of it is: You hopefully won't have any electrical gremlins caused by old wires or broken copper behind the wire casing. I spent so much time chasing down bad grounds and wires with high resistance.
@@SmackeysGarage Yeah...get that shit outa there...there are plenty of good wiring diagrams...Google each circuit separately. that way it's easier on the eyes..Build that ckt and so on....complete wiring diagrams like the one in the manuals are eye and mind boggling...And i went to school for that shit!! On guy on youtube said each circuit is separate so the one at a time approach is the best...
My 1969 mustang Mach 1 is the same as yours green jet, yellow lines black hood, it needs to have the, light map, my still haves it, hope one day you can install it.
Nice! I haven't put the blackout on the hood yet. That's still on the project list. I am going to order the map light from NPD this week. I looked around and I guess I never had one.
It's tight. You can get in there and do some work, but the lower dash still covers most of it. I'm assuming you are talking about the heater box. Thanks for checking out the video!
Man the dash in a 69 comes out a lot easier than a 67. I need to pull my instrument cluster to see why the oil pressure, fuel and temp gauges are not working. I really don't want to do it.
A bit of an update...Ok, i overdid the relays but that's ok..Instead on one relay i got like five...lol...I don't know. Anyway there are some relays that 'keyd' and some that are not. so that gives me two wires out of the inside of the car to corresponding relay. Then, set up two strips, keyed and not keyed, and just ran the wire to that strip....No more looking UP from the floor board..lol...It was killing my neck. I just finished today..It took a good solid four days of work but it's so satisfying. Although, the old wiring is still in there...Im afraid to pull it out..Im such a poosie!! lol
That’s a lot of work to get done! The nice thing is you won’t be worrying about or chasing electrical issues due to older wiring. As long as the old wiring is wrapped down and doesn’t rattle I’d probably do the same!
To properly remove the clock bezel it needs to stay on the dash pad until the dash pad is removed. There are two mounting tabs that hold the clock bezel to the dash pad from the inside and can only be removed when the dash pad is off the car. These tabs and screws are at 6 and 9 o'clock. I learned the hard way by breaking one tab.
Thanks for providing that tip. I could see how that may be better so it doesn't get damaged. You'd have to reach back there and disconnect the clock wiring first before it is pulled out with the dash pad. The drivers side dash is much better secured.
Thanks for sharing. Having done this, more than one. I say, this is a very well put together illustration.
Appreciate the feedback! Thank you for watching
Thanks for this. Not doing this on my own but it’s always good to know the process.
No problem!
I have the same issue with my car, the wiring under the dash could use a good re-do. :)
Hopefully they aren’t hanging as bad as my wiring was! Now I don’t have to worry about my wife stepping down and ripping the power to the gauges. HA
nice work better video than most on here, thanks. I need to change my speedo cable, once the dash pad is off can the speedo cable be accessed and removed from the speedometer?
It’d be tight to do. You’re better off removing the few screws for the gauge panel and pulling it forward slightly.
@@SmackeysGarage so I don't need to remove the dash pad? Can I pull the gauge panel forward enough to access the speedo cable? Sorry I've never had a 69 mustang dash apart before,.
@@auntron5450 You definitely need to remove the dash pad if you can't get to it from underneath (I've never tried that). The top screws for the gauges are behind the dash pad. Also, no worries at all! You learn a lot by taking these apart.
Im working on my 70....leaving the old wiring but adding new wire one ckt at a time....first headlight, then side markers...then brakes etc....adding relays under the hood on the front left next to radiator...Relays are fantasitic...imho
That's a great way to do it. I have relays on the headlights for my car. It made them so much brighter than stock. You can grab the old wiring diagrams if you ever want to build one out of the car and then put it in.
@@SmackeysGarage I tried the out of the car build and the in the car build...in the car is much easier...as long as you have the plan of attack...I decided to leave the old wiring in as a i go, then when im completly satisfied with the new stuff, ill go in and rip out the old....tedius as pHK...imho...but like you say, it makes all the difference..I went behind the dash like you did, spent hours dissecting....the hell with it...most of that stufff you'll never use...
@@davidwright873 You're exactly right. It's much easier to do when in the car but TEDIOUS.
The nice part of it is: You hopefully won't have any electrical gremlins caused by old wires or broken copper behind the wire casing. I spent so much time chasing down bad grounds and wires with high resistance.
@@SmackeysGarage Yeah...get that shit outa there...there are plenty of good wiring diagrams...Google each circuit separately. that way it's easier on the eyes..Build that ckt and so on....complete wiring diagrams like the one in the manuals are eye and mind boggling...And i went to school for that shit!! On guy on youtube said each circuit is separate so the one at a time approach is the best...
My 1969 mustang Mach 1 is the same as yours green jet, yellow lines black hood, it needs to have the, light map, my still haves it, hope one day you can install it.
Nice! I haven't put the blackout on the hood yet. That's still on the project list. I am going to order the map light from NPD this week. I looked around and I guess I never had one.
Good video. How much access is there to the heater plenum with the dash pad removed? Appreciate the note on the clock also
It's tight. You can get in there and do some work, but the lower dash still covers most of it. I'm assuming you are talking about the heater box. Thanks for checking out the video!
Man the dash in a 69 comes out a lot easier than a 67. I need to pull my instrument cluster to see why the oil pressure, fuel and temp gauges are not working. I really don't want to do it.
Oh I didn't know a 67 was that complicated. That sounds like a big project but those gauges are definitely needed!
A bit of an update...Ok, i overdid the relays but that's ok..Instead on one relay i got like five...lol...I don't know. Anyway there are some relays that 'keyd' and some that are not. so that gives me two wires out of the inside of the car to corresponding relay. Then, set up two strips, keyed and not keyed, and just ran the wire to that strip....No more looking UP from the floor board..lol...It was killing my neck. I just finished today..It took a good solid four days of work but it's so satisfying. Although, the old wiring is still in there...Im afraid to pull it out..Im such a poosie!! lol
That’s a lot of work to get done! The nice thing is you won’t be worrying about or chasing electrical issues due to older wiring.
As long as the old wiring is wrapped down and doesn’t rattle I’d probably do the same!
You should have told the viewers what are those wire and what they will connect to
That's a good idea next time I have the dash taken apart. Thanks for the idea!
Have to replace heater coar on 1970 mustang with ac , same job
Yea it is. Essentially everything needs to come out. They didn’t really make them easy to get to.
@@SmackeysGarage I got new dash to put back in it ,they are $500 now .
They’ve definitely got more expensive. Good to have a like new one though.
Can’t see the little screen!!!!
Can’t maximize the screen size!!!!!!
How are we supposed to see this????
Which screen?
Looking, come and do my car also :- )
Ha. It was quite a project. I did take it for a drive today and it's much better.