I had the exact same problem. I thought it was a button problem in my truck. I ordered the ferrite kit that you suggested, and your solution worked perfectly!
Thank you! The ferrite cores solved the problem. I bought the Chamberlain B6713T in December 2021, Chamberlain is still working on a software fix. Symptoms: The remotes did not work when the internal unit LED lights were OFF. Remotes always worked when the LEDs were on. Situation: I live within 1/4 mile of a radio/TV/cell phone/microwave tower. Installed the new garage door unit Solution: installed the ferrite cores on the internal LED wires. One each front and back LED and one on the common wires that feed both. This maybe overkill, but at $0.30 each, why not.
That’s weird that your remotes only worked when the lights were ON. Should have been the opposite. My 2 older openers work good with the cores and can operate at least 75ft away. The newer opener sometimes won’t work until I get within 25-30ft when the lights are on. My openers operate at different frequencies between old and new. Good to here it worked for you.
Update : I applied multiple cores to my garage door openers with significant improvement. But I continued to have the occasional problem. So I applied a small core to the antenna wire that hangs down from my opener. I have not had any further problems.
Hey good deal! Mine's been giving me fits. Even ran coax off of the remote antenna to the outside of the garage and it didnt help at all. I'm gonna give this a shot. Thanks for sharing.
Same for me. After researching I found out the braid in the coax is likely picking up the interference from the LEDs. I have some ferrite cores on order. Fingers crossed it helps.
I started having door issues with incandescent, CFL, led no change even with LED's, I then extended the antenna outside the garage door, this didn't help. Then the other day I extended the little so called antenna wire hanging a little below the door opener to about 18" long coiled it, now the door is functioning much better, even with LED's NOT specified for garage doors.
Hi. When you say that you extended the wire; How? Did you open/unhook the one there and replace it entirely with a longer wire, or did you strip/connect additional onto the short one? What method of "coiling" was done, and is that now just hanging down?
Hi Thanks for posting this video it helps confirm what we only guessed at. I have recently added a pair of "tri-wing" LED lights which scree into the existing sockets in my garage. We can operate the remote as long as it is inside the garage. Outside, if the LED ceiling lights are on no joy. Curiously enough , i have twin tube LEDs which do not interfere. My question to you is, If i loop the AC power line to the light bulb socket through a 61 mix torroid, will i have to do the same for every other one? We currently have 2 in parallel and want to go to four. That would mean 4 torroids?
Slaarty Bartfast III you can try just putting the ferrite cores/torroids on the garage door opener wires first as they act as antennas. But I would prefer extra cores as they don’t cost much more when you buy in packs. Then you can put them on the light themselves. Check the frequency range of your garage door openers first so you are buying the proper cores. The ones I mentioned should be correct for most openers.
Slaarty Bartfast III ooops. I didn’t answer your question correctly. Since each led has its own power supply, then yes you will probably need one for each lamp.
@@fixthemthings Thought that would be the case. Do you mean to say that the ac power lines on the garage door openers act as antennae? I see a short antenna wire on one of your drives. Also you mention wall unit in your video which confuses me a bit.
Slaarty Bartfast III sorry. I should have been more clear in the video. The wires going to your wall button and safety sensors act as antennas to bring the interfering signals to your garage door opener causing your remotes not to work well.
@@fixthemthings I added the torroids and still no joy. 1-looped the hot and neutral through the 120v feed to lights 2-looped the 120v feed to the garage door opener 3-looped sensor and hard wired wall switch Remote works fine when LEDs are powered off No joy when powered up
If you look at the description under the video I posted the links. I got them from Mouser. Check the frequency of your garage door first before ordering so you get the correct ones.
I recently installed a low voltage transformer with LED landscape lights outside of my house. When the lights are on my garage doors won’t open with the remote control. Any suggestions?
Thank you so much for your reply! Do you recommend the filters be applied both inside and outside of the garage. Should the filters be applied to the 16AWG cable ( approx. 50 feet) that runs from the 300 watt LVT to the LV path lights? Thank you again!
@@PatsFan-v8v I would just try them at the opener itself. Put one on the antennae wire that hangs down too. It will never be 100% but it will help. Instead of 100ft range you might have 50-75ft. They make led bulbs that are for garage door openers that won’t interfere now.
Did adding ferrite cores to the LED power cords improve the ranges of your remotes? I have the same garage door opener, and have copied your ferrite core suggestions with some improvement....but sometimes I have been shut out attempting to use remotes - when my landscaping LED lights are on.
Bruce Hogan yes. Before the led lights I had about 100 ft range. After the led lights about 10ft range. After adding the ferrite cores I got a 50-60ft range. I have heard that landscape lighting will affect the signal. Maybe you can try some cores on the power supply of the landscape lighting. Is your landscape lighting AC or DC? I have also heard if your neighbors house is close enough and they have leds that it could interfere also. The leds I purchased were to be FCC part 15 certified. You can try an AM radio at low end of dial and move it around to find the source of the interference.
Fix Them Things! Did you use the RFI kit you linked as well made for garage door openers? What’s the difference in that and the single ferrites you listed?
@@fixthemthings Okay but the low voltage wires are not an antenna. they do not act as an antenna for the radio controls which you could prove by running the door down, disconnecting them and then using the transmitter. The range will be the same. Sorry but I have given most of my life to doors and openers.
I would remove those LEDs and purchase LED bulbs made for a garage door opener first. If that doesn’t work go back to incandescent. Since the bulbs are directly connected to the opener. See my other video on garage door LED light.
Ahh, this is why I do how to’son TH-cam! Helps make our lives just a little bit better! I just removed a core off of a power plug from one of my devices and slapped it on the daisy chain of Amazon 4’ LED bulbs I have. Fixed! Didn’t work when put on the garage door wires. Honestly I never knew what those things did until now. Let’s just hope the device I stole the core from doesn’t cause any issues.
Jet Fuel Only yes you cut it off at the source. I should have mentioned that in the video. Yes you can grab the cores off of old monitors and try them but they may not be for the proper frequency. One of my openers had a different frequency which the cores helped but the distance is not as far as the other two openers. But the cores definitely fixed the problem.
Yes, my other video explains about the led in the opener. This was how I first found out that the LEDs interfered. They now make garage opener LEDs compatible with openers.
I have this exact problem. It took me a day to figure out what was was going on. The strange thing is that the soft light LED bulb (which I’ve had for years) doesn’t interfere at all. It’s the new daylight LED that causes a problem.
@@fixthemthings Both bulbs are dimmable. The soft white bulb (the original bulb that doesn't cause a problem) is an OSRAM (Sylvania) 8.5 W. The daylight bulb (the one that causes a problem) is a FEIT Electric 12.2 W. Maybe it's the wattage?
@@WildThingsProductions I just discovered I have this problem as my office sits next to our smaller garage my wife uses. I have (8) Feit 2.2 watt MR16 daylight dimmable bulbs and it reduces the range of the opener to about 8 feet. So even little wattage is still a factor (though x8 units likely doesn't help). There is a lengthy piece on the package about how this will cause radio interference even though it complies with FCC part 15.
I ordered a selection of beads. installed them on all of my opener wires and 8 foot light fixture wires. Made absolutely no difference at all. I thought it was going to be and easy fix.... hahahhaaa on me!!! First tried a single wire antenna extension, that didn't work at all... had to solder and run a coax cable out past the door opener, put a single 18" wire on the end of the coax cable and ground the outside of the coax. With the lights on it now works about one car length, with the lights off it works out to about 250 feet!!! something is better than nothing...
I have heard other people say that landscape led lighting and led flood lights will also cause this. You must have something near your openers that are at the same frequency.
Fix Them Things! That’s interesting to know ! The only time I had issues with my liftmaster remote was when he had an air show and the military radio used the same 390mhz frequency and no one could open their garages haha
dan klein it depends on the frequency of the door openers. Did you put them on the power to the lights also or just the opener push button cable, safety sensors cable and power cable?
I had the exact same problem. I thought it was a button problem in my truck. I ordered the ferrite kit that you suggested, and your solution worked perfectly!
Hey. That’s good to hear!
Thank you! Added ferrites to the cables and can finally operate the garage door opener with the remote when the outdoor LED lights are on.
Thank you! The ferrite cores solved the problem. I bought the Chamberlain B6713T in December 2021, Chamberlain is still working on a software fix.
Symptoms: The remotes did not work when the internal unit LED lights were OFF. Remotes always worked when the LEDs were on.
Situation: I live within 1/4 mile of a radio/TV/cell phone/microwave tower. Installed the new garage door unit
Solution: installed the ferrite cores on the internal LED wires. One each front and back LED and one on the common wires that feed both. This maybe overkill, but at $0.30 each, why not.
That’s weird that your remotes only worked when the lights were ON. Should have been the opposite. My 2 older openers work good with the cores and can operate at least 75ft away. The newer opener sometimes won’t work until I get within 25-30ft when the lights are on. My openers operate at different frequencies between old and new. Good to here it worked for you.
Very helpful and directed me toward the problem resolution. We'll find out when the ferrite products are applied. Fingers crossed.
It should help you. At least 50% or more of original distance with the cores.
Nice straight forward explanation. The links to the products is key. thanks
Update : I applied multiple cores to my garage door openers with significant improvement. But I continued to have the occasional problem. So I applied a small core to the antenna wire that hangs down from my opener. I have not had any further problems.
Nice. Great add on. I may add one there too since I have more cores left. Maybe I can get a few more feet out of it.
Link to product?
Hey good deal! Mine's been giving me fits. Even ran coax off of the remote antenna to the outside of the garage and it didnt help at all. I'm gonna give this a shot. Thanks for sharing.
Same for me. After researching I found out the braid in the coax is likely picking up the interference from the LEDs. I have some ferrite cores on order. Fingers crossed it helps.
Man, you are a genius!
This was awesome thanks for making this video
I started having door issues with incandescent, CFL, led no change even with LED's, I then extended the antenna outside the garage door, this didn't help.
Then the other day I extended the little so called antenna wire hanging a little below the door opener to about 18" long coiled it, now the door is functioning much better, even with LED's NOT specified for garage doors.
Hi. When you say that you extended the wire; How?
Did you open/unhook the one there and replace it entirely with a longer wire, or did you strip/connect additional onto the short one?
What method of "coiling" was done, and is that now just hanging down?
Hi
Thanks for posting this video it helps confirm what we only guessed at. I have recently added a pair of "tri-wing" LED lights which scree into the existing sockets in my garage. We can operate the remote as long as it is inside the garage. Outside, if the LED ceiling lights are on no joy.
Curiously enough , i have twin tube LEDs which do not interfere.
My question to you is,
If i loop the AC power line to the light bulb socket through a 61 mix torroid, will i have to do the same for every other one?
We currently have 2 in parallel and want to go to four. That would mean 4 torroids?
Slaarty Bartfast III you can try just putting the ferrite cores/torroids on the garage door opener wires first as they act as antennas. But I would prefer extra cores as they don’t cost much more when you buy in packs. Then you can put them on the light themselves. Check the frequency range of your garage door openers first so you are buying the proper cores. The ones I mentioned should be correct for most openers.
Slaarty Bartfast III ooops. I didn’t answer your question correctly. Since each led has its own power supply, then yes you will probably need one for each lamp.
@@fixthemthings Thought that would be the case. Do you mean to say that the ac power lines on the garage door openers act as antennae? I see a short antenna wire on one of your drives. Also you mention wall unit in your video which confuses me a bit.
Slaarty Bartfast III sorry. I should have been more clear in the video. The wires going to your wall button and safety sensors act as antennas to bring the interfering signals to your garage door opener causing your remotes not to work well.
@@fixthemthings
I added the torroids and still no joy.
1-looped the hot and neutral through the 120v feed to lights
2-looped the 120v feed to the garage door opener
3-looped sensor and hard wired wall switch
Remote works fine when LEDs are powered off
No joy when powered up
Where did you buy your ferrite core’s from?
If you look at the description under the video I posted the links. I got them from Mouser. Check the frequency of your garage door first before ordering so you get the correct ones.
Thanks!
I recently installed a low voltage transformer with LED landscape lights outside of my house. When the lights are on my garage doors won’t open with the remote control. Any suggestions?
Those lights are putting out the same frequency blocking your signal. The ferrite cores should help.
Thank you so much for your reply! Do you recommend the filters be applied both inside and outside of the garage. Should the filters be applied to the 16AWG cable ( approx. 50 feet) that runs from the 300 watt LVT to the LV path lights?
Thank you again!
@@PatsFan-v8v I would just try them at the opener itself. Put one on the antennae wire that hangs down too. It will never be 100% but it will help. Instead of 100ft range you might have 50-75ft. They make led bulbs that are for garage door openers that won’t interfere now.
Thanks again! 🤞🙏
Did you use the RFI kit listed in the description as well as the Mouser ferrites?
Mike Watson no. I bought my own cores since I was doing three doors. It would have been way too expensive for me otherwise.
Did adding ferrite cores to the LED power cords improve the ranges of your remotes? I have the same garage door opener, and have copied your ferrite core suggestions with some improvement....but sometimes I have been shut out attempting to use remotes - when my landscaping LED lights are on.
Bruce Hogan yes. Before the led lights I had about 100 ft range. After the led lights about 10ft range. After adding the ferrite cores I got a 50-60ft range. I have heard that landscape lighting will affect the signal. Maybe you can try some cores on the power supply of the landscape lighting. Is your landscape lighting AC or DC? I have also heard if your neighbors house is close enough and they have leds that it could interfere also. The leds I purchased were to be FCC part 15 certified. You can try an AM radio at low end of dial and move it around to find the source of the interference.
Fix Them Things! Did you use the RFI kit you linked as well made for garage door openers? What’s the difference in that and the single ferrites you listed?
The short purple wire is the antenna not the low voltage wires
Vince NDS in the video I stated that the low voltage wires “act” as an antenna. Yes, there is a little wire that hangs down as the antenna.
@@fixthemthings Okay but the low voltage wires are not an antenna. they do not act as an antenna for the radio controls which you could prove by running the door down, disconnecting them and then using the transmitter. The range will be the same. Sorry but I have given most of my life to doors and openers.
I put led bulbs in my opener and it reduce the range a lot, do you think this would still help?
I would remove those LEDs and purchase LED bulbs made for a garage door opener first. If that doesn’t work go back to incandescent. Since the bulbs are directly connected to the opener. See my other video on garage door LED light.
@@fixthemthings thank you
Ahh, this is why I do how to’son TH-cam! Helps make our lives just a little bit better! I just removed a core off of a power plug from one of my devices and slapped it on the daisy chain of Amazon 4’ LED bulbs I have. Fixed! Didn’t work when put on the garage door wires. Honestly I never knew what those things did until now. Let’s just hope the device I stole the core from doesn’t cause any issues.
Jet Fuel Only yes you cut it off at the source. I should have mentioned that in the video. Yes you can grab the cores off of old monitors and try them but they may not be for the proper frequency. One of my openers had a different frequency which the cores helped but the distance is not as far as the other two openers. But the cores definitely fixed the problem.
What about led bulbs in the opener?
Yes, my other video explains about the led in the opener. This was how I first found out that the LEDs interfered. They now make garage opener LEDs compatible with openers.
I have this exact problem. It took me a day to figure out what was was going on. The strange thing is that the soft light LED bulb (which I’ve had for years) doesn’t interfere at all. It’s the new daylight LED that causes a problem.
I would be curious if the daylight one is dimmable? The power supply circuits are the cause of interference.
@@fixthemthings Both bulbs are dimmable. The soft white bulb (the original bulb that doesn't cause a problem) is an OSRAM (Sylvania) 8.5 W. The daylight bulb (the one that causes a problem) is a FEIT Electric 12.2 W. Maybe it's the wattage?
@@WildThingsProductions I just discovered I have this problem as my office sits next to our smaller garage my wife uses. I have (8) Feit 2.2 watt MR16 daylight dimmable bulbs and it reduces the range of the opener to about 8 feet. So even little wattage is still a factor (though x8 units likely doesn't help).
There is a lengthy piece on the package about how this will cause radio interference even though it complies with FCC part 15.
I ordered a selection of beads. installed them on all of my opener wires and 8 foot light fixture wires. Made absolutely no difference at all. I thought it was going to be and easy fix.... hahahhaaa on me!!! First tried a single wire antenna extension, that didn't work at all... had to solder and run a coax cable out past the door opener, put a single 18" wire on the end of the coax cable and ground the outside of the coax. With the lights on it now works about one car length, with the lights off it works out to about 250 feet!!! something is better than nothing...
even when the LED light is not on, the garage door remote doesn't work from the outside. I'll try this ferrite core fix.
I have heard other people say that landscape led lighting and led flood lights will also cause this. You must have something near your openers that are at the same frequency.
I just installed a led 4ft lamp I bought off amazon and the led driver was ul listed and fcc approved so I didn’t have any interference.
Andoy33 yeah. My lights were also FCC approved and UL listed. Just depends on the frequency of the garage door opener.
Fix Them Things! That’s interesting to know ! The only time I had issues with my liftmaster remote was when he had an air show and the military radio used the same 390mhz frequency and no one could open their garages haha
I have 2 8 foot led lights and have never had an issue
@@grassman8684 it happens with mostly dimmable LEDs. Your LEDs are not interfering at the same frequency.
Easier to fix by just buying none dimming led lightbulbs. The dimming ones cause the problem
I have non-dimmable lights that are interfering. However, I do have four lights at 60W each so they are very bright.
The problems associated with LED lights have been really disappointing. Dimming, flickering, garage doors not working, etc..
Tried this didn't help any I think the only way to fix this is to relocate the antenna away from the lights with a coax cable.
40 bucks later, .didnt work I have 8 ft leds in shop
dan klein it depends on the frequency of the door openers. Did you put them on the power to the lights also or just the opener push button cable, safety sensors cable and power cable?
@@fixthemthings just on power cord, the safety sensors are taped together
dan klein you really need to do the safety sensors and wall button wiring too at the opener. They act as antennas. That should fix it.