Jose, Thank you for sharing...you have really helped me with understanding a lot of mysteries in this area. I am looking for better methods of sublimating wood for my jigsaw puzzle making and the thought of doing aluminum pictures really does fascinate me. Keep up the great work...I am a retired jeweler and my kids think I am nuts for trying to get into something like this at my age. Thanks again, Eddie
Like I said, the secret to success is the application of the coating and how perfectly, evenly and consistently it is applied! That is why I will be exploring different type of rollers but I think Airbrush will be the finest. That is what I used with special finishes on my 1/12 Scale Miniatures of Period Furniture made with Exotic Hardwoods.
You said air brush will dilute the application which means more of the enemy (moisture) in the coating, is that to be factored in when you are pre treating the ceramic before pressing?
Remember that you let the coating dry for two hours and then is goes in the oven at 350 degrees F for 20 minutes. Thick or thin it will be moisture free after curing. The reason you thin the catalized coating 10% with distilled water is so it can be applied easier by airbrushing. You can apply several thin coats to achieve whatever thickness. is optimal. Two thin and there is not enough depth for strong enough sublimation and too thick and you start to BLUR your image transfer. Moisture comes mainly from the printed transfer itself and that if why I pre dry it for about 30 seconds just under the heat press platen without pressing. You can see Steam escaping and once it is truly dry you can prepare the sandwich to the substrate you've already also pre heated a bit to remove moisture. It is more important with wood products, porous ceramic with only one glazed surface and not so much with metals and definitely not glass.
Thank You Mr. Rodriguez , great job on explaining and researching your work . I am starting to dive into sublimation i cant wait to do a tile project following your suggestions. once again Thanks
not sure how expensive the polyester resin is, but you might also consider using laminating pouches with your heat press. it's virtually immediate and no risk of dust/particulates landing on your viscous prep layer during curing. The lamination pouches are actually PET film. I believe that they are UV resistant to yellowing.
Thank for making this video, I'm just getting into Sublimation, can you tell me how the airbrush worked out for applying the poly-gloss, did you thin it? Thank you Jose.
I did have to thin down the spray gloss coated. But its water based. It went on super smooth. I gotta get my butt back in the shop and do some more Sub Videos.
You can buy ready to use converted Epson printers for.sublimation on ebay and all you would need is a heat press and transfer paper and of course, Chromaluxe sublimation aluminum.
I'm not sure what you mean by that I press liquid do you mean the polyester coating that one can apply to different substrates and you really cannot heat transfer to acrylic because it literally just melts
Then I may try with vinyl. Glitter vinyl can be sublimated on. There is a method of wet applying white vinyl to a glass cutting board from the Dollar Tree and then subbing onto it. I am curious to see if it would work on tile.
I assume you probably could of course remember like you stated that you vinyl has to be sublimatable otherwise it's not going to work. Now will it withstand the heat that you will eventually apply to it in other words will it remain adhered that I cannot answer. Like I said I only sublimate to solid substrates
A-SUB and no there are no ICC profiles for it. It's not like printing on regular photo paper. There are many variables involved unless you use a dedicated system like Sawgrass. I am using an Epson WF1100 which is not one that would normally be used. The standard is RICOH. I am using inks from Precisioncolors and not from Sawgrass. I am using A-SUB paper and not what Sawgrass recommends. The the substrate I use is not made for Sawgrass system. But still I seem to get great results.
I have always loved prints on metal. I have tried to watch all your videos but I've probably missed a lot. So I can't print transfers on my pro 100? Joe
No you can not. I would not last two print attempts. Only EPSON Printers and Other Piezo Head type of printers such as dedicated Sublimation Printer by Ricoh can handle Sublimation inks. Definitely NOT CANON printers. Once you dedicate a printer to SUB Inks you can NEVER go back to regular inkjet inks.
@@starlabunkley8483 yes you do not need different sublimation transfer papers. One type will be good for all of your transfers regardless of what substrate you transfer to. I use A-Sub and I get it from Amazon.
if using a frame as the mount on the back of the print why not seperate the frame into 4 seperate "legs" and use one on each print, now your mounting costs are 1/4th
I tried that with a single piece of wood and it will tilt as it hangs off the nail. This insures it sits flat against the wall for the perfect floating look. I will be receiving a sample prototypes o some custom 3D printer hangers and leveling "Buttons" to insure that perfectly level floating Look from a friend. I will report on that when they arrive.
then use three of the arms (one on each print) and cut the fourth arm into three pieces one for each of the three prints. The extra piece is there only as a spacer anyway
I went from $5.50 for the professional hanger to $1.25 each. Why would I want to make things more.difficult than they have to be? This works flawlessly for horizontal and vertical hanging with virtually zero effort. I have a full wood and metal machining workshop. I could fabricate just about anything but again why do that when this is so much effortless?
Jose, Thank you for sharing...you have really helped me with understanding a lot of mysteries in this area.
I am looking for better methods of sublimating wood for my jigsaw puzzle making and the thought of doing aluminum pictures really does fascinate me.
Keep up the great work...I am a retired jeweler and my kids think I am nuts for trying to get into something like this at my age.
Thanks again, Eddie
You are very welcome
Excellent work Jose
Thank you!
Hey ! Very impressive work. Thanks.
That is fabulous, very promising start on the ceramic especially the train..!
Awaiting your follow up vids ...
Like I said, the secret to success is the application of the coating and how perfectly, evenly and consistently it is applied!
That is why I will be exploring different type of rollers but I think Airbrush will be the finest. That is what I used with special finishes on my 1/12 Scale Miniatures of Period Furniture made with Exotic Hardwoods.
You said air brush will dilute the application which means more of the enemy (moisture) in the coating, is that to be factored in when you are pre treating the ceramic before pressing?
Remember that you let the coating dry for two hours and then is goes in the oven at 350 degrees F for 20 minutes. Thick or thin it will be moisture free after curing. The reason you thin the catalized coating 10% with distilled water is so it can be applied easier by airbrushing. You can apply several thin coats to achieve whatever thickness. is optimal. Two thin and there is not enough depth for strong enough sublimation and too thick and you start to BLUR your image transfer. Moisture comes mainly from the printed transfer itself and that if why I pre dry it for about 30 seconds just under the heat press platen without pressing. You can see Steam escaping and once it is truly dry you can prepare the sandwich to the substrate you've already also pre heated a bit to remove moisture. It is more important with wood products, porous ceramic with only one glazed surface and not so much with metals and definitely not glass.
Beautiful 😍
Thank You Mr. Rodriguez , great job on explaining and researching your work . I am starting to dive into sublimation i cant wait to do a tile project following your suggestions. once again Thanks
You are very welcome
@@cheo1949 You, talk to much. Get on with it.
Great work and very informative. Is it necessary to seal the coated aluminum after sublimation to prevent peeling or scratching ?
No.
not sure how expensive the polyester resin is, but you might also consider using laminating pouches with your heat press. it's virtually immediate and no risk of dust/particulates landing on your viscous prep layer during curing. The lamination pouches are actually PET film. I believe that they are UV resistant to yellowing.
I never new that even existed. Thanks.
Can you heat press the tile with a cricut easy press? If so, what temperature and time?
where can i get aluminium sheets ? link sent would be appreciated
Jose great work his can I buy some of those coated plates do you have a link ?
Thank for making this video, I'm just getting into Sublimation, can you tell me how the airbrush worked out for applying the poly-gloss, did you thin it? Thank you Jose.
I did have to thin down the spray gloss coated. But its water based. It went on super smooth. I gotta get my butt back in the shop and do some more Sub Videos.
Where do you get your aluminum plates from?
i totally want to get set up to do this! amazing
You can buy ready to use converted Epson printers for.sublimation on ebay and all you would need is a heat press and transfer paper and of course, Chromaluxe sublimation aluminum.
hello, loved the video and have subscribed what is the brand of dyepress liquid and where can I find it
You polyester resin coating?? Look for SubliGlaze
Thank you so much. I love, love, love your prints on aluminum. Have to get the dyepress liquid. But I am curious if poly acrylic works.
I'm not sure what you mean by that I press liquid do you mean the polyester coating that one can apply to different substrates and you really cannot heat transfer to acrylic because it literally just melts
Then I may try with vinyl. Glitter vinyl can be sublimated on. There is a method of wet applying white vinyl to a glass cutting board from the Dollar Tree and then subbing onto it. I am curious to see if it would work on tile.
I assume you probably could of course remember like you stated that you vinyl has to be sublimatable otherwise it's not going to work. Now will it withstand the heat that you will eventually apply to it in other words will it remain adhered that I cannot answer. Like I said I only sublimate to solid substrates
Where do you get the coated signs
You can find Sublimation Aluminum on EBAY but for the highest quality the only source I would recommend is www.conde.com
Jose' can you tell us what brand of transfer paper you use and also is there an ICC profile for the paper?
A-SUB and no there are no ICC profiles for it. It's not like printing on regular photo paper. There are many variables involved unless you use a dedicated system like Sawgrass.
I am using an Epson WF1100 which is not one that would normally be used. The standard is RICOH. I am using inks from Precisioncolors and not from Sawgrass. I am using A-SUB paper and not what Sawgrass recommends. The the substrate I use is not made for Sawgrass system. But still I seem to get great results.
I have always loved prints on metal. I have tried to watch all your videos but I've probably missed a lot. So I can't print transfers on my pro 100?
Joe
No you can not. I would not last two print attempts. Only EPSON Printers and Other Piezo Head type of printers such as dedicated Sublimation Printer by Ricoh can handle Sublimation inks. Definitely NOT CANON printers. Once you dedicate a printer to SUB Inks you can NEVER go back to regular inkjet inks.
Thank you for your reply.
Joe
Hi Jose, thank you for your videos! Have you tried these tiles with the multi pupose paper vs the A sub paper?
That's the only paper I use. I use it on everything I sublimate to.
@@cheo1949 so you're saying you use multi purpose paper
@@starlabunkley8483 yes you do not need different sublimation transfer papers. One type will be good for all of your transfers regardless of what substrate you transfer to. I use A-Sub and I get it from Amazon.
Can Canon pro 100 fine to sublimation on metal?
No. Canon printers can not be used for sublimation. Only epson.
@@cheo1949 Any suggestion under $500 to $600 for sublimation A3 printers?
Hello.... Can you use polycrylic?
As long as it can coated with polyester and cure at 350 f and transferred to at 400f for several minutes without melting.
can I use that polyurethane coating spray on photo and fine art paper? lol
Of course no. Real PHOTO paper UV spray in case you are actually not joking.
it is polyester coating only that type will work
Yes!
Jose Rodriguez So they actually do sell spray cans for photo and art papers? How nice I need to look into this.
yes th-cam.com/video/V89KB2rP9mM/w-d-xo.html
Why wouldn't everyone get their pictures from you!??👀 🙌🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥Do work 👪 💯
I don't know.
if using a frame as the mount on the back of the print why not seperate the frame into 4 seperate "legs" and use one on each print, now your mounting costs are 1/4th
I tried that with a single piece of wood and it will tilt as it hangs off the nail. This insures it sits flat against the wall for the perfect floating look. I will be receiving a sample prototypes o some custom 3D printer hangers and leveling "Buttons" to insure that perfectly level floating Look from a friend. I will report on that when they arrive.
then use three of the arms (one on each print) and cut the fourth arm into three pieces one for each of the three prints. The extra piece is there only as a spacer anyway
I went from $5.50 for the professional hanger to $1.25 each. Why would I want to make things more.difficult than they have to be? This works flawlessly for horizontal and vertical hanging with virtually zero effort. I have a full wood and metal machining workshop. I could fabricate just about anything but again why do that when this is so much effortless?