Hi Roger! Thank you for your video. Is there any chance that you could demonstrate applying a coating of polyacrylic on a ceramic tile sublimation? I hoping to make one, and feel what that feels like (what kind of protection it provides). Heck, if you have an example laying around, I would love to buy it so I can get an idea faster. Looking forward to more videos, and hearing back from you.
I tried the laminate on tile before and that was definitely an epic fail. Now I have a good use for my 25 yards of 651. I’m happy to see you got yourself some new gloves.
Gloves for me can be tough since I wear a size 11. These run big, so a 10 fits perfect and the heat resistance and grip is excellent. Not cheap, but worth it! I'll be doing a review on these soon.
@@rogersshop I have the opposite problem. I have really small hands and can wear kids gloves, so even the women’s heat-resistant gloves are huge on me.
When u first put tiles on heat press u mention u put down parchment paper...would butcher paper work the same ?? ....love the way u simply things ....u r my favorite instructer !!
Yes, butcher paper works the same, and I do use both, from time to time. However, Parchment paper prevents anything from sticking. (And, I got as whole bunch for free!)
Roger. I tried the vinyl… it melted at the 385f/240 s… Maybe the vinyl cuz it’s the cheap stuff from $ tree. Was using just to see how it would work. I’m love the template for my vinyl cutter so thanks much for sharing. I do have some Circuit brand vinyl. What time/temp would you recommend for the cheap vinyl I have, I want to be able to use it up. Thanks! Glad I found you.
Was the vinyl o the bottom? It will melt if on top. I did a trial comparing the Dollar Tree vinyl to others on glass, using this method and it actually turned out pretty good for such cheap stuff.
Great video, on the tile with the vinyl what vinyl did you use I don't see in the description, I try the laminated pouch and didn't like the results either .
What's with the Dr Pepper can? Almost looks like you'd need the old hole punch can opener, going by the design, which goes way back. Is the 'made with sugar' soda from Texas, or are other areas doing that now, too? I know a LOT of food companies are trying to get away from high fructose corn syrup, which I personally believe is largely responsible for obesity and diabetes in our country. But I'm no doctor - I only play one on TH-cam. In your home siding video, I thought it looked like Southern Missouri. But I don't know my states that well. Cool ideas with the tiles. Could you put a coat of epoxy resin on it? That bullnose edge might be a problem, unless you have the tile sitting up on something and pour it on and let it drip off the sides.
Whenever I see the "Made With Real Sugar" Dr. Pepper at the store, I stock up on it. I like the taste better and it reminds me of the bottles I could get when I was a kid. I am in northern Illinois, along the Mississippi River, bordering Iowa. Yes, one could coat the tile with epoxy resin so long as the formula would not react with the base. I have a friend that makes coated tumblers and found that out the hard way!
Does it matter if the polyacrylic is Matte,glossy or satin? I see your link is for the satin version but I was just wondering because I have a mat one at home.
Where did you find the 4 25 X4.25 square ceramic tiles? I went to Lowes and their smallest tile was 6X6. Everything on Amazon costs around $1 for each tile
Lowes, Home Depot, and Menards all have these. They are basic ceramic wall tiles. The Menards price is $0.15 each when purchased in a case of 100. As a plus, those from Menards are made in USA by Mohawk. I have also used the 6 x 6 for trivets, but laser engraved, not sublimated, so as to tolerate heat.
beautiful! could i put modge podge on the poly acrylic coaster as a second coating after its been sublimated as the protective coating, instead of another coat of poly acrylic ? thanks
I suppose one could. I'm not a fan of it as it always shows brush stroke marks, but that is one of my OCD things............ I always spray Polycrylic rather than brush for that reason.
Thanks Roger like watching all your videos they are so great. One question looks like the one with clear vinyl looks more vibrant then the one with polycrylic not sure its the lighting though. Also could you use white vinyl too on these?
Love your videos. I've heard you say in a couple of them that you sell some things like the dollar tree glass cutting boards you did the sublimation on. Do you have a link to the store? I don't have all the fancy equipment you have.
Most things are produced either for custom use locally, or by special order. I do have a few things on Etsy under Moonshine Nursery, such as some glass trivets and wood signs. My shop is currently on "vacation" as am I, so it will not be visible for another week or so.
Thank you for all your videos. You are by far the best out there and have never steered me wrong. I’m trying this one out this week to prep for mother’s day photo tiles 🤞. Do you have a website or are your steps listed anywhere?
I got the chance to try it today but it peeled when taking the paper off. I sanded with 400 grit. I did the 2 coats, letting it sit over night both times but didnt press it until 2 days later. Im thinking its because I didnt sand it enough. Any tips?
@@valerietramontozzi7595 I've never had that happen. Could be that you did break the glaze enough on the tile first. Try a 220 grit paper if your glaze is especially tough.
Just wondering... With that Polycrylic spray, could this also be used for plain dollar tree COFFEE MUGS, vice having to using actual sublimation mugs. Also, When you say Vinyl you are referring to adhesive vinyl ( I see in your references 651)
Polycrylic spray would work if the intended use was just decoration as it is not listed as food-safe and getting it to adhere to the ceramic glazing might be a problem. For the vinyl, yes, permanent outdoor vinyl such as the Oracle 651
Thank you Roger. This is a very informative video. Would you mind answering a few questions? Can this process be done using a Cricut Heat Press? Would I have to apply manual pressure for this to work? Do you have a recommendation for temperature and time using a Heat Press?
Yes, you could do it with an Easy Press. However, it takes a lot of pressure and you need to make SURE you do not move while doing it or it may ghost. Time & temp would be the same as if using a heat press as shown.
Rapid Tac is not an adhesive. It is a cleaner and a liquid that allows positioning and eliminates air bubbles when squeegeed correctly. Plain water also works, just not as well.
I'm watching this way after the fact (sorry). I have a question, the tiles, although they are covered on the edges with the vinyl they 'look' raw. Can they be painted white before doing this process?
Do you know why the 3 different brands I've tried of sublimate on white htv it came out faded but the adhesive side looks amazing. But not usable. What am I doing wrong. I feel like I'm the only one getting this result. I've seen people sublimate on white htv
Those are Creality Ender3 V2 3D printers. we make custom parts for various things and they run pretty much 24/7. Just added another this past week, but a different brand with a larger work surface.
Brush on will leave marks, no matter how careful you are. Spray gives the best finish. When I do a lot of these, I use an airbrush with thinned Polycrylic from a quart can. Much less costly than the spray cans.
Hi, I followed your instructions and my tile did not sublimate well both times I tried. It looks like some of the ink came through but it’s very grainy looking, the image isn’t good. I’m wondering if it’s a difference in the paper. I use texprint sub paper and cosmos ink. They have worked great sublimating on everything else so far. I did only do two light coats of polycrylic so I’m wondering if maybe I didn’t have enough. The paper didn’t stick to it either. Only some of the ink came off none, of the paper stuck to it. So I didn’t have to wash it off it was just really grainy.
I also use Tex Print from time to time, so that is not the problem. Check your pressure (should be quite firm) and be sure to preheat the bed and pillow a full cycle first. This preheat makes a big difference. When printing the graphic, use the highest quality setting possible. Also, what base are you using? Clear vinyl, Polycrylic, or laminate?
I used polycrylic spray matte, light coat twice and completely dried. I keep my print settings on prem matte, high quality. I did preheat the bed but not with the pressing pillow! I’ll try that! I had medium pressure, firm enough that it was slightly hard to close with the tile in place.
I tried heat pressing the pillow too beforehand for the full time and it was still grainy. I turned the press up to 400degrees and pressed the same tile again and even more color came through, but still not quite there. I’m thinking tomorrow I’ll try this at 400 for longer.
Roger, one more question - what are the dimensions of the shape you cut out in the vinyl to wrap the tile? I’m making coasters for a Christmas gift and have wasted 2 sheets of vinyl because my template isn’t quite right size wise. Thank you.
@@mompreneursalliance Center square is 4.125". The four "lap tabs" are 4.125" x .75". I did this on a Cricut and because of their proprietary "rules", I can't share the template.
@@rogersshop no worries. Having the dimensions worked. I thank you. I also thank you for the Rapid Tac recommendation in your video. That makes applying vinyl a cinch.
4.25" square, then add 1/2" on each side, leaving the corners open. I do this on a Cricut Maker. Because of their "design", I can't share the cut file.
Measure your tile, but mine are 4.125" square and I allow .75" on each edge to wrap under, with corners cut away to prevent overlaps on edges and back. The cork base then cover where it wraps under.
@@rogersshop oh ok i understand thanks...but with that being said it is possible to transfer an image to the vinyl and the apply the vinyl to a surface of choice
@@Chet_Vanderlinden It can be done on HTV to apply to a porous surface such as fabric, but I've never tried it with Permanent outdoor vinyl. Not sure how the adhesive would hold up after the heat transfer.
Yes, but since it was created in Cricut Design Space, I can't share it. Make a 4.125" square, then add a 4.125 x .1" rectangle to each side, then weld. This gives the pattern with the cutout corners.
@@mamastein2002 OK, I figured out how to share this! I added the link to this in the description of the video, as well. Here it is: design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/61fae8abef1192102efa4db8
I have the Epson et 2803 do You know the link to find the color profiles for the hiipoo inks for my printer I’ve searched and cannot find them from hiipoo. Have you tried the clear vinyl method on thin glass? Many thanks
I do not know of an exact color profile for the Hiipoo inks, but do have the Hex code for the four primary colors. Black #000000, Yellow #FFFF00, Magenta #FF00FF, Cyan #00FFFF. Yes, I have done this on the thin Dollar Tree picture frame glass, which is half as thick as regular window glass. Works fine, but be careful with pressure as it beaks easily. Guess how I know that.........
@@darleneroach2848 Do not use HTV. Use permanent outdoor vinyl such as Oracle 651 or 751. Can be gloss or matte. Doesn't matter. Clear or white work the same. 385 degrees for 190 seconds. Medium-firm pressure. Photo/graphic facing up, vinyl side of glass facing down. Be sure to preheat bed. Do not try to hot peel. Let it cool and use water to get paper to release. Magic eraser and water will then remove the white film left behind.
Created the template in Cricut Design Space after carefully measuring the tile to get exact dimensions. Don't use HTV here. Use permanent outdoor vinyl, such as Oracle 651 or 751.
@@rogersshop very helpful. Thank you for noticing i thought it was htv. I mean it was a sticker hence the wet application but because it went under the press I had htv on the brain.
I have the following and would like to know if i can use them any of these as a substitute: Krylon colormaxx clear indoor out door i have the gloss crystal clear and the flat crystal clear, rust-oleum painter's touch satin clear , the modge podge gloss crystal clear sealer "spray" (-:.. i know we've been down this road before, but i wanted to add some more choices to the pot in hopes of getting a "clear" winner, lol (-: hoping something in my stash works. (-:
I have tried solvent based clear coatings and they do not work. The coating usually blisters in the press and color transfer is either poor, or none at all. The water-based Polycrylic has given the best results.
Measure your tile, but mine are 4.125" square and I allow .75" on each edge to wrap under, with corners cut away to prevent overlaps on edges and back. The cork base then cover where it wraps under.
I used satin on this one, but gloss works just as well. Personally, I don't like a matte finish on something like this. Upcoming, I'm going to do a video comparing the "release" properties of three different brand sublimation papers and will be using a combination of satin and gloss.
Nothing came from Hobby Lobby, although they "may" carry some of these items. other than the tiles (came from Menards), all other supplies were from Amazon. IMHO, Hobby Lobby is over-priced on most items and can be found for less cost elsewhere.
Just looking at your work area, Kinda like mine. I have 2 filament printers, 1 resin printer, 1 laser engraver, 1 Cricut explore, 2 printers, 1 regular and 1 sublimination, drawers full of printer parts, and 1 kick ass high end computer to handle it all lol. oh yeah loads of materials
Love your straight forward videos. You are very thorough and not a bunch of extra unnecessary fluff. Thank you!
Thanks Roger for another fine tutorial. You could have easily been a shop teacher. But I'm sure electricians make more money! Love your stuff!!
Now I have a purpose for all of my leftover white tiles!!! Thank you!!
Hi Roger! Thank you for your video. Is there any chance that you could demonstrate applying a coating of polyacrylic on a ceramic tile sublimation? I hoping to make one, and feel what that feels like (what kind of protection it provides). Heck, if you have an example laying around, I would love to buy it so I can get an idea faster.
Looking forward to more videos, and hearing back from you.
Great demo. Thank you for the up front info. Will these tiles withstand installation in a shower? Is there a particular type that would? Thank you.
Yes,, so long as not scrubbed with an abrasive.
@@rogersshop Thank you.
Very good demo but I'd like to know what kind of photocopy you used- ink jet, laser toner or pigment dye
Thanks
.
Hiipo Sublimation ink on a converted Epson 2720 inkjet printer
I tried the laminate on tile before and that was definitely an epic fail. Now I have a good use for my 25 yards of 651. I’m happy to see you got yourself some new gloves.
Gloves for me can be tough since I wear a size 11. These run big, so a 10 fits perfect and the heat resistance and grip is excellent. Not cheap, but worth it! I'll be doing a review on these soon.
@@rogersshop I have the opposite problem. I have really small hands and can wear kids gloves, so even the women’s heat-resistant gloves are huge on me.
@@rogersshop Laminate ia 8 min minumum to bond
Thank you! I'm also learning alot in the comments! You are an excellent teacher!
When u first put tiles on heat press u mention u put down parchment paper...would butcher paper work the same ?? ....love the way u simply things ....u r my favorite instructer !!
Yes, butcher paper works the same, and I do use both, from time to time. However, Parchment paper prevents anything from sticking. (And, I got as whole bunch for free!)
Do you have any videos on doing photos sublimation on polished stainless?
Have not tried that. But, using laminate or a sublimation coating should work.
Roger. I tried the vinyl… it melted at the 385f/240 s…
Maybe the vinyl cuz it’s the cheap stuff from $ tree. Was using just to see how it would work.
I’m love the template for my vinyl cutter so thanks much for sharing.
I do have some Circuit brand vinyl. What time/temp would you recommend for the cheap vinyl I have, I want to be able to use it up.
Thanks! Glad I found you.
Was the vinyl o the bottom? It will melt if on top. I did a trial comparing the Dollar Tree vinyl to others on glass, using this method and it actually turned out pretty good for such cheap stuff.
I tried laminate and failed miserably and wasted several tile. going to try the vinyl. Seems to work awesome!
Great video. I have seen the tiles at Home Depot and wondered if this would work!! Can't wait to try it. Thanks for your time. really appreciate it!!
Which poly spray did you use
polycrylic spray amzn.to/3Lhe58a
Love ya videos. Wish you show how u cut the corners out of the vinyl one
So you don't bake in the polycyclic after the 2 coats?
No. Not necessary.
Great video. For laminate eight minutes is the minumum time for it ot bond and it's not coming off. And tiles come out vibrant
Both poly and vinyl methods worked well for me. I have the same heat press. What paper to you have attached to the upper plate with magnets?
Teflon sheet
Great video, on the tile with the vinyl what vinyl did you use I don't see in the description, I try the laminated pouch and didn't like the results either .
Oracle 651 Clear. Oracal 651 Transparent Craft Vinyl amzn.to/3gpJJSJ
What's with the Dr Pepper can? Almost looks like you'd need the old hole punch can opener, going by the design, which goes way back. Is the 'made with sugar' soda from Texas, or are other areas doing that now, too? I know a LOT of food companies are trying to get away from high fructose corn syrup, which I personally believe is largely responsible for obesity and diabetes in our country. But I'm no doctor - I only play one on TH-cam. In your home siding video, I thought it looked like Southern Missouri. But I don't know my states that well. Cool ideas with the tiles. Could you put a coat of epoxy resin on it? That bullnose edge might be a problem, unless you have the tile sitting up on something and pour it on and let it drip off the sides.
Whenever I see the "Made With Real Sugar" Dr. Pepper at the store, I stock up on it. I like the taste better and it reminds me of the bottles I could get when I was a kid. I am in northern Illinois, along the Mississippi River, bordering Iowa.
Yes, one could coat the tile with epoxy resin so long as the formula would not react with the base. I have a friend that makes coated tumblers and found that out the hard way!
Does it matter if the polyacrylic is Matte,glossy or satin? I see your link is for the satin version but I was just wondering because I have a mat one at home.
It makes no difference. I just use satin because I have a lot of it.
Where did you find the 4
25 X4.25 square ceramic tiles? I went to Lowes and their smallest tile was 6X6. Everything on Amazon costs around $1 for each tile
Lowes, Home Depot, and Menards all have these. They are basic ceramic wall tiles. The Menards price is $0.15 each when purchased in a case of 100. As a plus, those from Menards are made in USA by Mohawk. I have also used the 6 x 6 for trivets, but laser engraved, not sublimated, so as to tolerate heat.
Thank You
Thank you for another fine video I have tried the laminate and only had about a 25% success rate I think I'll be trying the polycrylic next
I LOVE your videos! I can't wait to get started on some of my own!
This has been most helpful! I have a Cricut easy press. Do I still put the picture down?
thanks it was great. was going to do some tile.
I love your videos! If I use Home Depot tile for the vinyl method, should I buy the satin or gloss tiles?
It makes no difference.
beautiful! could i put modge podge on the poly acrylic coaster as a second coating after its been sublimated as the protective coating, instead of another coat of poly acrylic ? thanks
I suppose one could. I'm not a fan of it as it always shows brush stroke marks, but that is one of my OCD things............ I always spray Polycrylic rather than brush for that reason.
@@rogersshop great point! I'm going to give this a try. Thanks!
Thanks Roger like watching all your videos they are so great. One question looks like the one with clear vinyl looks more vibrant then the one with polycrylic not sure its the lighting though. Also could you use white vinyl too on these?
Yes, you could also use white vinyl. It that case, it would not matter what color the tile was.
If the polycrylic works in a ceramic tile would it work on a mug too
Yes
Would it be ok for me to use or just for decoration
@@clairecolchester7345 If using for a coaster, etc., apply a clear coat to protect the image.
Love your videos. I've heard you say in a couple of them that you sell some things like the dollar tree glass cutting boards you did the sublimation on. Do you have a link to the store? I don't have all the fancy equipment you have.
Most things are produced either for custom use locally, or by special order. I do have a few things on Etsy under Moonshine Nursery, such as some glass trivets and wood signs. My shop is currently on "vacation" as am I, so it will not be visible for another week or so.
Thank you for all your videos. You are by far the best out there and have never steered me wrong. I’m trying this one out this week to prep for mother’s day photo tiles 🤞. Do you have a website or are your steps listed anywhere?
We do have a website, but the steps are not listed there and most of these custom items are sold locally and not on the website.
I got the chance to try it today but it peeled when taking the paper off. I sanded with 400 grit. I did the 2 coats, letting it sit over night both times but didnt press it until 2 days later. Im thinking its because I didnt sand it enough. Any tips?
@@valerietramontozzi7595 I've never had that happen. Could be that you did break the glaze enough on the tile first. Try a 220 grit paper if your glaze is especially tough.
Just wondering... With that Polycrylic spray, could this also be used for plain dollar tree COFFEE MUGS, vice having to using actual sublimation mugs. Also, When you say Vinyl you are referring to adhesive vinyl ( I see in your references 651)
Polycrylic spray would work if the intended use was just decoration as it is not listed as food-safe and getting it to adhere to the ceramic glazing might be a problem. For the vinyl, yes, permanent outdoor vinyl such as the Oracle 651
Could you use these for a custom backsplash? The polyacrylic version.
Yes, just be careful of abrasion if not top coated.
I tried using white vinyl and it turned out more like porcelain than vibrant like yours. Should I have used clear instead?
Yes, clear gives a more bright image.
Thank you Roger. This is a very informative video. Would you mind answering a few questions? Can this process be done using a Cricut Heat Press? Would I have to apply manual pressure for this to work? Do you have a recommendation for temperature and time using a Heat Press?
Yes, you could do it with an Easy Press. However, it takes a lot of pressure and you need to make SURE you do not move while doing it or it may ghost. Time & temp would be the same as if using a heat press as shown.
Great video, I do not have Rapid Tac, can you please recommend another adhesive? Thanks!
Rapid Tac is not an adhesive. It is a cleaner and a liquid that allows positioning and eliminates air bubbles when squeegeed correctly. Plain water also works, just not as well.
I'm watching this way after the fact (sorry). I have a question, the tiles, although they are covered on the edges with the vinyl they 'look' raw. Can they be painted white before doing this process?
Yes, they can be painted with high temp paint. Or, you can wet sand the bumps off with silicon grit 220 paper.
Do you know why the 3 different brands I've tried of sublimate on white htv it came out faded but the adhesive side looks amazing. But not usable. What am I doing wrong. I feel like I'm the only one getting this result. I've seen people sublimate on white htv
Use permanent outdoor vinyl, not HTV. Yes, you can sublimate onto HTV, but this is not the application for it.
Do you find a laminate comes off easy? If so do you have any suggestions? Also, is it waterproof?
Not had a problem with it coming off. Waterproof? Maybe................ Water resistant, yes. I wouldn't soak it or run it through a dishwasher.
What type of tiles Are you jusing? Normal ones?
Standard 4 x 4 ceramic wall tile (actually measures 4.25 x 4.25")
Roger, what laser machines are you using in the background in this video
Those are Creality Ender3 V2 3D printers. we make custom parts for various things and they run pretty much 24/7. Just added another this past week, but a different brand with a larger work surface.
Thank you! Very easy to listen to. Question, should I use poly acrylic spray or brush on? Glossy? And if either, do you have a personal preference?
Brush on will leave marks, no matter how careful you are. Spray gives the best finish. When I do a lot of these, I use an airbrush with thinned Polycrylic from a quart can. Much less costly than the spray cans.
I sanded with the power tool with 60 grid, and 400, it still feels smooth, are you able to feel roughness when you sand them?
No. You should not feel any roughness.
hi sir, will this last if installed outdoors? how long will it start to fade? thanks!
Yes, it will fade from the UV in the sun after a few months. Takes about 6 months to fade out if in direct sun. Guess how I know that!
Very informative and detailed. Thank you.
Thanks for the informative video
I have a question …. Can I set a hot pan or bowl in these after they have been sublimated
Yes, but limited. 350 degrees F would be about the limit.
The vinyl that you used in this video is that vinyl inkjet printable vinyl that I can use in my inkjet printer?
No. that will NOT work. This is Oracle 651 permanent outdoor vinyl.
@@rogersshop ok thanks
Hi, I followed your instructions and my tile did not sublimate well both times I tried. It looks like some of the ink came through but it’s very grainy looking, the image isn’t good. I’m wondering if it’s a difference in the paper. I use texprint sub paper and cosmos ink. They have worked great sublimating on everything else so far. I did only do two light coats of polycrylic so I’m wondering if maybe I didn’t have enough. The paper didn’t stick to it either. Only some of the ink came off none, of the paper stuck to it. So I didn’t have to wash it off it was just really grainy.
I also use Tex Print from time to time, so that is not the problem. Check your pressure (should be quite firm) and be sure to preheat the bed and pillow a full cycle first. This preheat makes a big difference. When printing the graphic, use the highest quality setting possible. Also, what base are you using? Clear vinyl, Polycrylic, or laminate?
I used polycrylic spray matte, light coat twice and completely dried. I keep my print settings on prem matte, high quality. I did preheat the bed but not with the pressing pillow! I’ll try that! I had medium pressure, firm enough that it was slightly hard to close with the tile in place.
I tried heat pressing the pillow too beforehand for the full time and it was still grainy. I turned the press up to 400degrees and pressed the same tile again and even more color came through, but still not quite there. I’m thinking tomorrow I’ll try this at 400 for longer.
Do you have an Amazon affiliate link for the polycrylic spray
Yes. I missed that in the description, but now updated. It is: Polycrylic spray amzn.to/3Lhe58a
Can I use it as tombstone photo
I don't see why not. If outdoors, though, it will fade in the sun over time.
Do you clean the little bumps off the side of the tile. They really annoyed me. I was going to use a grinder.
Sometimes, I use my Triton with a carbide belt. Normally, I just leave them.
@@rogersshop Buy tilke without them. They are a pain in the ass.
Hello could you please tell me how to remove vinyl from ceramic tile ? Thank you
Heat gun to soften and then peel. Some adhesive may remain behind, but can be removed with a product such as Goof-Off.
Thank you very much
thank you again for a great tutorial you are one of my favorites
Roger, when you sanded the tile to remove the glaze, did you use the electric sander or did you do it by hand? Thank you!
I've done it both ways. When doing a lot of them, I use a DeWalt random orbit sander.
Roger, one more question - what are the dimensions of the shape you cut out in the vinyl to wrap the tile? I’m making coasters for a Christmas gift and have wasted 2 sheets of vinyl because my template isn’t quite right size wise. Thank you.
@@mompreneursalliance Center square is 4.125". The four "lap tabs" are 4.125" x .75". I did this on a Cricut and because of their proprietary "rules", I can't share the template.
@@rogersshop no worries. Having the dimensions worked. I thank you. I also thank you for the Rapid Tac recommendation in your video. That makes applying vinyl a cinch.
@@mompreneursalliance I did find a way to share the Cricut template. The link to it is in the description
Can I use orecal 651
Yes
How do you cut the wrap around vinyl what size do you cut?
4.25" square, then add 1/2" on each side, leaving the corners open. I do this on a Cricut Maker. Because of their "design", I can't share the cut file.
what size is your template for the tile
Measure your tile, but mine are 4.125" square and I allow .75" on each edge to wrap under, with corners cut away to prevent overlaps on edges and back. The cork base then cover where it wraps under.
What vinyl did you use?
Oracal 651 Transparent Craft Vinyl amzn.to/3gpJJSJ
What brand of htv did you use
Do not use HTV. HTV is designed for porous surfaces, such as fabric. Use permanent outdoor vinyl, such as Oracle 651
Thank you I was wandering what I was doing wrong
what printer and software is used to print to the viny??
The printer used here is an Epson 2720 with sublimation ink, printed on sublimation paper. It does not print direct to the vinyl.
@@rogersshop oh ok i understand thanks...but with that being said it is possible to transfer an image to the vinyl and the apply the vinyl to a surface of choice
@@Chet_Vanderlinden It can be done on HTV to apply to a porous surface such as fabric, but I've never tried it with Permanent outdoor vinyl. Not sure how the adhesive would hold up after the heat transfer.
What are those machines working in your background?
3D printers. We have 14 of them and working most of the time.
@@rogersshop
Is 3D printing for primary projects? And do you have an engraver?
@@rogersshop
Thanks for your response, you seem very knowledgeable and dedicated to your craft! Great discipline and focus! God bless!
@@MrJj2001 I print custom mounts and risers for laser engravers, along with a few other things. I do have laser engravers. Both diode and CO2.
Could you please tell me if you have a template to cut the clear vinyl to size with the corners cut out?
Yes, but since it was created in Cricut Design Space, I can't share it. Make a 4.125" square, then add a 4.125 x .1" rectangle to each side, then weld. This gives the pattern with the cutout corners.
@@rogersshop thank you so much
@@rogersshop since your template was created in Design Space would it be available in there for someone who uses Design Space?
@@mamastein2002 OK, I figured out how to share this! I added the link to this in the description of the video, as well. Here it is: design.cricut.com/landing/project-detail/61fae8abef1192102efa4db8
@@rogersshop that is awesome! Thank you so much ! This is such a great tutorial!
Thankyou, these are super cute. Keep the videos coming.
I have the Epson et 2803 do You know the link to find the color profiles for the hiipoo inks for my printer I’ve searched and cannot find them from hiipoo. Have you tried the clear vinyl method on thin glass? Many thanks
I do not know of an exact color profile for the Hiipoo inks, but do have the Hex code for the four primary colors. Black #000000, Yellow #FFFF00, Magenta #FF00FF, Cyan #00FFFF. Yes, I have done this on the thin Dollar Tree picture frame glass, which is half as thick as regular window glass. Works fine, but be careful with pressure as it beaks easily. Guess how I know that.........
@@rogersshop thanks Roger, what settings best for thin glass, you used clear HTV over the glass right?
@@darleneroach2848 Do not use HTV. Use permanent outdoor vinyl such as Oracle 651 or 751. Can be gloss or matte. Doesn't matter. Clear or white work the same. 385 degrees for 190 seconds. Medium-firm pressure. Photo/graphic facing up, vinyl side of glass facing down. Be sure to preheat bed. Do not try to hot peel. Let it cool and use water to get paper to release. Magic eraser and water will then remove the white film left behind.
Hi just wondering where you purchased the felt for behind the tile?
These are Self Adhesive Cork Squares amzn.to/34FQf5e
How do you print out the pictures? Is it certain paper and ink ?
Sublimation ink on sublimation paper. Regular ink will not work.
What size is the vinyl that you use
Varies, depending on project and what I have. Might be sheets, might be on a roll.
@@rogersshop sorry i was asking what size you make the wrap with the clear vinyl
5x5 square
How did you get your shape for the clear htv to fit on the tile
Created the template in Cricut Design Space after carefully measuring the tile to get exact dimensions. Don't use HTV here. Use permanent outdoor vinyl, such as Oracle 651 or 751.
@@rogersshop very helpful. Thank you for noticing i thought it was htv. I mean it was a sticker hence the wet application but because it went under the press I had htv on the brain.
@@rogersshop What is the size of the clear vinyl you use to get the overlap
@@sheri8471 4.25 " square with 1/2" overlap on each side, corners cut out
could you do bigger tiles and use as a hanging decoration?
You can use any size if your press is big enough
Thank you for sharing this video
I have the following and would like to know if i can use them any of these as a substitute: Krylon colormaxx clear indoor out door i have the gloss crystal clear and the flat crystal clear, rust-oleum painter's touch satin clear , the modge podge gloss crystal clear sealer "spray" (-:.. i know we've been down this road before, but i wanted to add some more choices to the pot in hopes of getting a "clear" winner, lol (-: hoping something in my stash works. (-:
I have tried solvent based clear coatings and they do not work. The coating usually blisters in the press and color transfer is either poor, or none at all. The water-based Polycrylic has given the best results.
Thanks for saving me from the trouble of making a mess as well as wasting my time n supplies.
Roger what size did you cut your square a nd the cutouts mine is always off thank you
Measure your tile, but mine are 4.125" square and I allow .75" on each edge to wrap under, with corners cut away to prevent overlaps on edges and back. The cork base then cover where it wraps under.
Thanks so much
@@rogersshop do you do the cut outs for the corners in cricut design or manual - how do you do that?
@@pixiwings75 On the Cricut. Make a square, then some rectangles. Put all into position and weld, then cut. Measure your tile carefully first.
@@rogersshop so that is 4.200 is that correct
why did you put clear vinyl on the tile first
You cannot sublimate to bare tile. Nothing will transfer.
@@rogersshop my clear vinyl melted :(
@@sheri8471 tile must face DOWN. If up, the vinyl will melt
What brand clear HTV do you use?
Do not use HTV. Results will be very poor. Use a permanent vinyl such as Oracle 651, 751, or Siser Premium outdoor vinyl.
You are the best
do use matte or gloss with the polycrylic
I used satin on this one, but gloss works just as well. Personally, I don't like a matte finish on something like this. Upcoming, I'm going to do a video comparing the "release" properties of three different brand sublimation papers and will be using a combination of satin and gloss.
@@rogersshop I look forward to it
Could you direct me to the material you got from hobby lobby that you sublimated on. Can't for the life of me find the correct video.
Nothing came from Hobby Lobby, although they "may" carry some of these items. other than the tiles (came from Menards), all other supplies were from Amazon. IMHO, Hobby Lobby is over-priced on most items and can be found for less cost elsewhere.
@@rogersshop oh I thought you got some burlap type of fabric for sublimating from hobby lobby.
It was in a tutorial a while back, where you took your camera with you. Am I mistaken?
@@yvonnepierce2913 It was not me
Just looking at your work area, Kinda like mine. I have 2 filament printers, 1 resin printer, 1 laser engraver, 1 Cricut explore, 2 printers, 1 regular and 1 sublimination, drawers full of printer parts, and 1 kick ass high end computer to handle it all lol. oh yeah loads of materials
There is also a "laser room", that used to be a bedroom. I have nine different brands of diode lasers. Room is crowded!
Why don't you put in other way?
No scorch or melting this way
Lol ok now what? You arent really going to install those are you? I guess maybe trump supporters prob like them!
Keep politics OUT of comments here or they will be deleted. REGARDLESS of whom you support.