Making a ball & socket joint in DesignSpark Mechanical
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- If feel that you have benefited from this tutorial please consider donating 1GBP into my Paypal account - james22taylor@talktalk.net Bespoke videos can be requested via my website: www.jimsdsmtutorials.co.uk A subscriber asked if I could show how to make one of these things and after trying a few ideas this seemed to be the easiest way to do it.
I am learning so much,,,can't thank you enough!--self taught Genius.
Great work Jim.
I have an entry level 3D printer with a resolution of about 1/64" (about 0.4mm), I should set the gap between the ball and socket to about 0.02" (~0.51 mm) to make sure that it does not merge.
The way I would print it is to start from the shaft of the sphere and create an annular scaffolding to support the rim of the socket. My 3D slicer software will create the scaffolding according to the way I chose.
WOW, you made it look so easy
Thanks Jim - great tip!
thank you Jim
wonderful, my next knees!
and I need a new finger joint.
Jim, just thought I'd let you know I printed a socket that was 50 mm with a ball that was 49 mm and it took 4 hours and 22 minutes. It was a little tough to break it free from the bottom, but once it broke free it operated fantastically. Check out the video I posted for you to see it on the Facebook DesignSpark Mechanical group
OK, to print this is much harder that i initially thought. The problem lays when the printer transitions between the socket and the ball. Because there is no support for the ball, it moves once the printer has put down a couple of layers. The print resolution is 0.4 mm and my gap between the ball and socket is 0.5 mm so as soon as the printer has put down a couple of layers the ball drops and moves.
I can see a couple of ways around this,
1) make the clearance gap smaller so as the ball and socket "stick" but don't fuse
2) Go back to the design and try to add a support structure inside the socket. Make it thin enough that it acts like a support and breaks away after printing
I will play with it tomorrow at work and print when i get home
I'm printing one, Jim. I'll let you know in about 4 hours
Thank you and happy Easter. You are the best but only in English😢😢
I made one that works after a couple fails. Needed to leave 1.5 mm clearance between ball and socket.
That seems to be quite a bit of clearance. Do you think that a different printing material might help to reduce this? I've heard of people making working printed ball bearings and wind-driven walking mechanisms. I wonder how the make them? I have just posted a video on how to make a two-part ball and socket joint that would eliminate the clearance problem.
@@JimTaylor42 Yes i'm sure the tolerance could be reduced but its actually quite tight. Theres plenty of variables with printing, now looking for a possible use.
Honestly to me it seems very difficult to print considering we have 2 objects that cannot be printed separately. There is also the support problem to consider. I'm very curious to see the result. In case you can, please share it. Thank you. Ciao!
I have heard of someone who printed a working ball bearing so printing this should be a doddle.
markspc1 has made some comments that you may find useful.
I will let you know if it works in 3hrs, 50 mins
I look foreward to it.
@@JimTaylor42 Well, attempt no1 has failed. I am going to have to have a look at the setting and build a custom profile for this one.
@@iancooper418 markspc1 has made some comments that you may find useful.
@@JimTaylor42 I set the gap between ball and socket at 0.5mm and allowed the slicing software to set the supports. It was printing fine until it started to print the ball inside and i think what happened was the ball was unsupported and moved, this in-turn "clipped" the print with the nozzle and i got a mess on the build plate whilst i was making coffee. I am going to try to add some very thin supports between the ball and socket and see how that goes.