Just changed the strings on my newish Cordoba F7 Flamenco, the saddle slid out. Wasn't sure if I had the saddle in the proper orientation, you mentioned that the lower side of saddle was for the treble strings, thanks!
Nicely done! Nice video with all the close ups and different angles. Good explanations of what you are doing and why. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge!
I bought an old guitar that came with a case like that. The hinges made me toss the case in the trash. They don’t really lock and they pop open. And it did just that when I was crossing the street and my guitar ended up with an ugly scratch. I know it’s been 3 years but it would suck if suck a beautiful guitar ended with an ugly scratch because of a faulty case. And by the way, now I’m going to save to buy one of those Cordoba C5.
The setup is very important? I just used the factory setup, so I should ask a pro to setup for me? Also the setup is the same for everyone? small hands ( i have) and large hands? Also how much generally for a setup in store? Thanks for any info/help.
The C5 comes with bone saddle and bone nut so no need to replace. Classical guitars have higher action than steel string acoustics but that can be lowered to suit the player’s taste.
This guitar was brand new at the time of the video. I had just purchased it as a gift for my brother in law. I wouldn't know anything about older C5's unfortunately.
As many have commented ad nauseam on this video, classical guitar action is considerably higher than steel string acoustic guitars. I lowered this one a lot more than you’d typically see because my brother in law has reduced grip strength in his hands and a low action classical will still let him play some.
@@jimhollis41 My point was that most guitar makers seem to set action too high, perhaps to dodge complaints of string buzz. My Cordoba F7 was set about 4mm.
Hi Jim. I have a C5-CE. I have a buzz from about fret 8 to fret 11, worst at fret 11. It completely disappears at fret 12 and above. I can see that the neck is straight up to the 12th fret, right at the body joint, at which point it bows away from the body. That explains the buzz. Does loosening the truss rod (counterclockwise) do anything with fret 12 and up, or does it only adjust fret 11 and below since that area is not in direct contact with the body? Thanks for any advice.
nonh8nsk8r Truss rod will only affect the center part of the neck and definitely nothing at the 12th or higher frets. If the neck is too straight or even back bowed there can be buzz on the middle frets. There could also be frets that aren’t level and that will cause buzzing with low action. Loosening will not hurt anything and could possibly help. Just do the adjustment in small increments and NEVER tighten the truss rod under string tension. I like to see about 10-12 thousandths of neck relief at frets 7,8,9. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I just got my Cordoba C9 crossover. Highly recommend it. It’s a traditional classical guitar but with a much more playable neck. And a dual action truss rod as well. I love it. It’s all solid wood, cedar top, mahogany back and sides, and didn’t cost thousands of dollars. MAP is $899.
Great info and tips. I like the DIY Action Height, bone saddle tool. I'll be using that one. You do seem to be filibustering a little bit. I'm laying in bed from hip replacement surgery yesterday and this was a little too long for me. And I'm on pain killers! 😂 But, good quality content in my opinion. Thank you sir! I subscribed. Surgery again next week. Left thumb 😢
Thx for the showing the adjustment on the saddle bone and truss rod adjustment But you could explain to loosen the truss rod is by turning Allen-key counter clockwise hence string become a bit higher And turning clockwise tightens or causes a bow-back of neck and the string my buzz etc Thx 🙏
I purchased a C5 and it turned out to be the worst instrument I've had in quality control. The frets were dangerously sharp at the edges and actually cut my fingers before I filed the edges down. No guitar should be sold with this flaw. The action was ridiculously high, by several mm and consequently you needed huge pressure high up. The octaves were completely out. Top E flat. B sharp. G very sharp. D sharp, A was ok and Low E was flat. This is completely unacceptable in a new guitar at this price. In the end it cost me almost as much as the original price to get it in playing order. Shocking quality from Cordoba. Any guitar costing more than $200/200euros should be properly set up in the factory and quality tested. The C5 is not a cheap instrument and a new owner should expect decent quality and set up before taking the plunge. The lesson learnt from me was never ever buy a guitar without thoroughly testing it on approval first.
I have a C7 and it's decent student quality, but def not student prices. If I was in Europe, there's no way I'd settle for a Cordoba, with Spain being so close. I'm in Texas though, and there's no one close with student level Spanish made guitars(only the high end versions). Agreed, play first before buying. It's a shame the big vendors don't have established relatinships with the Spanish manufacturers. Godin makes decent nylon guitars, but they're not exactly traditional, which is what most classical/Flamenco players are wanting.
I tried a Cordoba at a guitar store and was shocked by the sharp fret ends. I was looking for an affordable flamenco with low action, sales clerk tells me most guitars in Alberta have this problem because the climate is so dry. bye bye buddy, I hate being lied to
I think it's hit and miss with the china made Cordoba's. I tried several at my local GC. The best playing guitar in the room was a c7-cd. Well setup and no issues with fret ends. I think that it really depends on what time of the year the guitar is built too. These guitars are exposed to very humid climates at times during shipping and the c3,c5,c7 all come in nothing more that a cardboard box. I'm guessing most leave the warehouse filed well for the fret ends, but travel across an ocean to a drier climate can have this effect. I bought a c-7 ce and love it! I also bought the Humicase to go with mine and it extends the 3 year warranty to a lifetime warranty. I took a gamble on an open box demo from sweetwater and I'm glad I did. Great little classical.
Very helpful - thanks! Question - if the saddle height is already at the minimum and cannot be sanded down any further are there any options left to reduce action?
The only real option once the saddle has been taken down as much as possible is a neck reset. It is worth the time to do a really good internal inspection too because I've seen loose braces cause really high string action.
Ty Fischer...with a heavy solid body guitar or bass I do measure in playing position because of the weight of the instrument. I haven’t found this necessary with acoustics and have never had any issues measuring them on the bench. Thanks so much for watching and commenting.
@@tyfischer4288 Depends on the stings you've got on as well. My Flamenco has high tension strings, some guys play lower tension strings on their classicals though. If you're going for a percussive sound, higher tension is obviously preferred. I've got as much relief removed from mine as possible, and it's still not enough to get the action as low as I'd like. It's ok, but not great.
Wow I wish you lived near me. I have had such a problem getting a good set up. I recently bought a Córdoba Orchestra Fusion. I currently have a Córdoba C7-Ce. Both are classical electric guitars. I had my C7 set up years ago and absolutely love it. It is very low and does buzz a bit at times but it is extremely easy to play. It has a 2” nut and I wanted to try the 1 7/8” nut of the Fusion. When I got it I took it to get set up as it was a bit higher than I wanted. This guitar has such a rich sound. When I got it back I still could not get clear bar cords out of it and some of the low strings were “muddy” when bared. Don’t know what the issue it but someone suggested there may be some fret issues?
Could be frets, could be the brand of strings giving you the muddy lows? Adjusting the truss rod is very straight forward and obviously not permanent. Every decent player should carry an Action Gauge Ruler with them,
Truss rods are used to adjust the straightness of the neck not for adjusting string action. String action or height is adjusted at the nut and saddle. On acoustics, raising the action means a new nut or saddle unless you want to use shims (which I never use). Lowering the action on acoustics is done by removing material from the nut or saddle to get the desired action. Electric guitars and bases with adjustable saddles are a bit easier to get done. I have seen some extreme cases where a neck is extremely under bowed and getting the proper amount of relief using the truss rod does lower the action some but those are extreme cases and not normal. Again...under normal circumstances truss rod adjustments are not used for string height / action. Thanks for the question...I hope this helps.
@@jimhollis41 thanks for the the thorough reply. I am interested in these Cordoba guitars as I believe they are the only classical guitars who have truss rods is that correct ? Also they seem the best quality guitars al the way from entry level.
Hi I have a c9 spruce top that somehow has .006” relief at the 6th…and a string height of 2 mm or 5/64 on all strings …b and e minuscule lower….and no buzz……pro arte ej46c strings…high tension. Is this normal? So any one really discovered the best strings for these cordobas?….i think they are a great guitar for the $…
I would say if this is a new C9 and came with that setup it would be pretty rare. As others have mentioned in the comments, classical guitars typically have much higher string action than acoustics. I set this one low specifically because of who was going to be playing it. But if that works for you then I say play it and enjoy it. As far as strings go, I'm not a classical guitar player so my only experience is with the Savarez 500CJ High Tension strings.
@@jimhollis41 sorry…yes i didn’t make that statement clearly….purchased it of first owner who had it setup and thats what he achieved. Its right on the edge of buzzing on the A string if you give it a strong pluck and varies with humidity….so imagine its a keeper then the fact that i can go higher and still be in the “norm”…intonation however poor on the g and b and seems to be a universal problem unless a specific compensated saddle is made or used yeh?. Saddle appears to be just shaved underneath and lowered. So these cordobas are never really achieve perfect intonation from factory with that supplied straight saddle?
My short answer is…yes. It really depends though on your playing style and preference for setup. It’s been my experience that most manufacturers ship guitars on the high side of specs especially with string height. I also think guitar setup should be checked about once a year since wood can move some over time.
With the position the guitar is in on the bench, yes turning the allen wrench toward me losened it. Truss rod screws are the basic turn left to loosen and turn right to tighten. As I mentioned in the video, you can loosen a truss rod under string tension but never tighten a truss rod without loosening the strings first since you can actually damage the guitar. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Most classical guitars have no neck relief (i.e., the neck is perfectly straight, no truss rod). Normal action is 3mm at the 12th fret for first string, and 4mm at 12th string for 6th string. Many concert players use 3.5 and 4.5mm action at the first and sixth, enabling strong forte with no buzz. So your action setting seems incredibly low to me. My problem on a C12 I own was that all strings were several cents sharp fretted at the twelfth fret, and I do use the whole finger board. Had to jerry rig a double thick saddle to compensate the strings into tune.
I've got the C7 Flamenco and took out as much relief as I could but I agree on the compensation issue, although wit Flamenco, I'm rarely up at the dusty end of the fretboard.
That would be an interesting thing to test. I'm not a classical guitar player so can't really offer an opinion on how a truss rod affects sound in a classical guitar. Thanks for watching and commenting.
That would be interesting to know if it actually matters. Almost impossible to test since every guitar is different, even the cookie cutter models. I have several luthier built classicals and two of them have truss rods. The others employ inlays in the neck. Though they all have their own voice I certainly can’t comment on whether it matters. I have to believe in some minute way it does though I doubt most, if any, could hear the difference.
@@joeyoungs8426...my personal opinion is if truss rods negatively affected the sound of acoustic guitars, companies like Martin and Gibson wouldn’t have started using them...
oh I have two Cordobas: C1M , plain matte, truss, what I really love is the 52mm but nut with thinned neck!( cause I hurtt my barre arm years ago, the other one Iberia Dolce has 50 nut and shorter scale being aye 7/8 sized specimen, now regently I just payed an ordered meself aye 3rd Cordoba fa 649€s , GK flaenco! looowww atcion cutaway model!!! my other two Cordobas are perfect in any way, but I read an review on That GK I ordered had sharpish frets rough..., better not mine! BECause my 2 Cordobas frets are so swell...but NO Worries!!! Thomann has very good customer servic, if a 650€ nylon string guitar has rough sharp frets Im gonna sen it back, keep it reelin Mr JIM HLLYes, with luv as always, Kimmo :)
Why not buy a real Spanish guitar, if you're in Europe? Cordobas really only make sense to American and Canadian buyers, as there really are no resellers here with established relationship with Spanish manufacturing companies. For what you're paying for a Chinese made guitar, it's way over priced imo. I used to build for Collings, here in Texas. If at all possible, I'd recommend supporting the Spanish builders and luthiers.
I guess I'm confused. First, this was never published as a "how to" and second, I showed taking all the measurements for everything so not sure what you think I left out.
Thankyou for showing me that a guitar can always be better
Just changed the strings on my newish Cordoba F7 Flamenco, the saddle slid out. Wasn't sure if I had the saddle in the proper orientation, you mentioned that the lower side of saddle was for the treble strings, thanks!
As a machinist and a classical guitar player I've giving you many thanks on this, great informative video and many thanks.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Happy video-anniversary! I’m shopping through these C5-C12 options. I’m a BIR tech (non luthier), and really enjoyed the visit. Cheers!
just started setting mine up! tho the cedar top has a red stain to it to match the mahogany back and sides
Thank you for sharing
Nicely done!
Nice video with all the close ups and different angles. Good explanations of what you are doing and why. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge!
I bought an old guitar that came with a case like that. The hinges made me toss the case in the trash. They don’t really lock and they pop open. And it did just that when I was crossing the street and my guitar ended up with an ugly scratch. I know it’s been 3 years but it would suck if suck a beautiful guitar ended with an ugly scratch because of a faulty case. And by the way, now I’m going to save to buy one of those Cordoba C5.
Thank you sir for sharing. Useful and interesting video. Thanks.
Thank you.
The setup is very important? I just used the factory setup, so I should ask a pro to setup for me? Also the setup is the same for everyone? small hands ( i have) and large hands? Also how much generally for a setup in store? Thanks for any info/help.
Is it worth changing the nut and saddle on the these? I also find the action pretty high, particularly around the first fret.
The C5 comes with bone saddle and bone nut so no need to replace. Classical guitars have higher action than steel string acoustics but that can be lowered to suit the player’s taste.
Hi, is this guitar an older model C5? How is the top color that light (has a hint of yellow) which is nice. Could be the lighting in the video.
This guitar was brand new at the time of the video. I had just purchased it as a gift for my brother in law. I wouldn't know anything about older C5's unfortunately.
I wonder why guitar factories set string action considerably higher than "normal" for both classical and flamenco guitars.
As many have commented ad nauseam on this video, classical guitar action is considerably higher than steel string acoustic guitars. I lowered this one a lot more than you’d typically see because my brother in law has reduced grip strength in his hands and a low action classical will still let him play some.
@@jimhollis41 My point was that most guitar makers seem to set action too high, perhaps to dodge complaints of string buzz. My Cordoba F7 was set about 4mm.
C5 is plenty good for most players and is well made.
Hi Jim. I have a C5-CE. I have a buzz from about fret 8 to fret 11, worst at fret 11. It completely disappears at fret 12 and above. I can see that the neck is straight up to the 12th fret, right at the body joint, at which point it bows away from the body. That explains the buzz. Does loosening the truss rod (counterclockwise) do anything with fret 12 and up, or does it only adjust fret 11 and below since that area is not in direct contact with the body? Thanks for any advice.
nonh8nsk8r Truss rod will only affect the center part of the neck and definitely nothing at the 12th or higher frets. If the neck is too straight or even back bowed there can be buzz on the middle frets. There could also be frets that aren’t level and that will cause buzzing with low action. Loosening will not hurt anything and could possibly help. Just do the adjustment in small increments and NEVER tighten the truss rod under string tension. I like to see about 10-12 thousandths of neck relief at frets 7,8,9. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I just got my Cordoba C9 crossover. Highly recommend it. It’s a traditional classical guitar but with a much more playable neck. And a dual action truss rod as well. I love it. It’s all solid wood, cedar top, mahogany back and sides, and didn’t cost thousands of dollars. MAP is $899.
Stan, I got the Córdoba Orchestra CE for the same reason. Just having problems getting it set up properly. I need to check out the C9
Great info and tips. I like the DIY Action Height, bone saddle tool. I'll be using that one.
You do seem to be filibustering a little bit. I'm laying in bed from hip replacement surgery yesterday and this was a little too long for me. And I'm on pain killers! 😂
But, good quality content in my opinion. Thank you sir! I subscribed. Surgery again next week. Left thumb 😢
Thx for the showing the adjustment on the saddle bone and truss rod adjustment
But you could explain to loosen the truss rod is by turning Allen-key counter clockwise hence string become a bit higher
And turning clockwise tightens or causes a bow-back of neck and the string my buzz etc
Thx 🙏
I purchased a C5 and it turned out to be the worst instrument I've had in quality control. The frets were dangerously sharp at the edges and actually cut my fingers before I filed the edges down. No guitar should be sold with this flaw. The action was ridiculously high, by several mm and consequently you needed huge pressure high up. The octaves were completely out. Top E flat. B sharp. G very sharp. D sharp, A was ok and Low E was flat. This is completely unacceptable in a new guitar at this price. In the end it cost me almost as much as the original price to get it in playing order. Shocking quality from Cordoba.
Any guitar costing more than $200/200euros should be properly set up in the factory and quality tested. The C5 is not a cheap instrument and a new owner should expect decent quality and set up before taking the plunge. The lesson learnt from me was never ever buy a guitar without thoroughly testing it on approval first.
I have a C7 and it's decent student quality, but def not student prices. If I was in Europe, there's no way I'd settle for a Cordoba, with Spain being so close. I'm in Texas though, and there's no one close with student level Spanish made guitars(only the high end versions). Agreed, play first before buying. It's a shame the big vendors don't have established relatinships with the Spanish manufacturers. Godin makes decent nylon guitars, but they're not exactly traditional, which is what most classical/Flamenco players are wanting.
I tried a Cordoba at a guitar store and was shocked by the sharp fret ends. I was looking for an affordable flamenco with low action, sales clerk tells me most guitars in Alberta have this problem because the climate is so dry. bye bye buddy, I hate being lied to
I think it's hit and miss with the china made Cordoba's. I tried several at my local GC. The best playing guitar in the room was a c7-cd. Well setup and no issues with fret ends. I think that it really depends on what time of the year the guitar is built too. These guitars are exposed to very humid climates at times during shipping and the c3,c5,c7 all come in nothing more that a cardboard box. I'm guessing most leave the warehouse filed well for the fret ends, but travel across an ocean to a drier climate can have this effect. I bought a c-7 ce and love it! I also bought the Humicase to go with mine and it extends the 3 year warranty to a lifetime warranty. I took a gamble on an open box demo from sweetwater and I'm glad I did. Great little classical.
Very helpful - thanks! Question - if the saddle height is already at the minimum and cannot be sanded down any further are there any options left to reduce action?
The only real option once the saddle has been taken down as much as possible is a neck reset. It is worth the time to do a really good internal inspection too because I've seen loose braces cause really high string action.
I’ve always been told to measure action while holding the guitar in the playing position. The force of gravity itself can affect your measurements
Ty Fischer...with a heavy solid body guitar or bass I do measure in playing position because of the weight of the instrument. I haven’t found this necessary with acoustics and have never had any issues measuring them on the bench. Thanks so much for watching and commenting.
jimhollis41 interesting; I suppose the higher string tension on acoustics affects things as well
@@tyfischer4288 Depends on the stings you've got on as well. My Flamenco has high tension strings, some guys play lower tension strings on their classicals though. If you're going for a percussive sound, higher tension is obviously preferred. I've got as much relief removed from mine as possible, and it's still not enough to get the action as low as I'd like. It's ok, but not great.
I set my classical action super low. 4/64 at the 12th.
Any buzzing?
@@ww3032 none
Does your classical have a truss rod?
@@austntexan nope
Wow I wish you lived near me. I have had such a problem getting a good set up. I recently bought a Córdoba Orchestra Fusion. I currently have a Córdoba C7-Ce. Both are classical electric guitars. I had my C7 set up years ago and absolutely love it. It is very low and does buzz a bit at times but it is extremely easy to play. It has a 2” nut and I wanted to try the 1 7/8” nut of the Fusion. When I got it I took it to get set up as it was a bit higher than I wanted. This guitar has such a rich sound. When I got it back I still could not get clear bar cords out of it and some of the low strings were “muddy” when bared. Don’t know what the issue it but someone suggested there may be some fret issues?
Could be frets, could be the brand of strings giving you the muddy lows? Adjusting the truss rod is very straight forward and obviously not permanent. Every decent player should carry an Action Gauge Ruler with them,
How does the truss road alter the action ?
Truss rods are used to adjust the straightness of the neck not for adjusting string action. String action or height is adjusted at the nut and saddle. On acoustics, raising the action means a new nut or saddle unless you want to use shims (which I never use). Lowering the action on acoustics is done by removing material from the nut or saddle to get the desired action. Electric guitars and bases with adjustable saddles are a bit easier to get done. I have seen some extreme cases where a neck is extremely under bowed and getting the proper amount of relief using the truss rod does lower the action some but those are extreme cases and not normal. Again...under normal circumstances truss rod adjustments are not used for string height / action. Thanks for the question...I hope this helps.
@@jimhollis41 thanks for the the thorough reply.
I am interested in these Cordoba guitars as I believe they are the only classical guitars who have truss rods is that correct ? Also they seem the best quality guitars al the way from entry level.
Hi
I have a c9 spruce top that somehow has .006” relief at the 6th…and a string height of 2 mm or 5/64 on all strings …b and e minuscule lower….and no buzz……pro arte ej46c strings…high tension. Is this normal?
So any one really discovered the best strings for these cordobas?….i think they are a great guitar for the $…
I would say if this is a new C9 and came with that setup it would be pretty rare. As others have mentioned in the comments, classical guitars typically have much higher string action than acoustics. I set this one low specifically because of who was going to be playing it. But if that works for you then I say play it and enjoy it. As far as strings go, I'm not a classical guitar player so my only experience is with the Savarez 500CJ High Tension strings.
@@jimhollis41 sorry…yes i didn’t make that statement clearly….purchased it of first owner who had it setup and thats what he achieved. Its right on the edge of buzzing on the A string if you give it a strong pluck and varies with humidity….so imagine its a keeper then the fact that i can go higher and still be in the “norm”…intonation however poor on the g and b and seems to be a universal problem unless a specific compensated saddle is made or used yeh?. Saddle appears to be just shaved underneath and lowered. So these cordobas are never really achieve perfect intonation from factory with that supplied straight saddle?
Shouldn’t you set the nut before the saddle?
Do you recommend every new guitar get an evaluation for a setup?
My short answer is…yes. It really depends though on your playing style and preference for setup. It’s been my experience that most manufacturers ship guitars on the high side of specs especially with string height. I also think guitar setup should be checked about once a year since wood can move some over time.
Are you turning the Allen wrench toward you to loosen it?
With the position the guitar is in on the bench, yes turning the allen wrench toward me losened it. Truss rod screws are the basic turn left to loosen and turn right to tighten. As I mentioned in the video, you can loosen a truss rod under string tension but never tighten a truss rod without loosening the strings first since you can actually damage the guitar. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Most classical guitars have no neck relief (i.e., the neck is perfectly straight, no truss rod). Normal action is 3mm at the 12th fret for first string, and 4mm at 12th string for 6th string. Many concert players use 3.5 and 4.5mm action at the first and sixth, enabling strong forte with no buzz. So your action setting seems incredibly low to me. My problem on a C12 I own was that all strings were several cents sharp fretted at the twelfth fret, and I do use the whole finger board. Had to jerry rig a double thick saddle to compensate the strings into tune.
I've got the C7 Flamenco and took out as much relief as I could but I agree on the compensation issue, although wit Flamenco, I'm rarely up at the dusty end of the fretboard.
Truss rods in a classical interfere to the sound of the guitar unless is wooden. Ebony, Maple or another hardwood
That would be an interesting thing to test. I'm not a classical guitar player so can't really offer an opinion on how a truss rod affects sound in a classical guitar. Thanks for watching and commenting.
That would be interesting to know if it actually matters. Almost impossible to test since every guitar is different, even the cookie cutter models. I have several luthier built classicals and two of them have truss rods. The others employ inlays in the neck. Though they all have their own voice I certainly can’t comment on whether it matters. I have to believe in some minute way it does though I doubt most, if any, could hear the difference.
@@joeyoungs8426...my personal opinion is if truss rods negatively affected the sound of acoustic guitars, companies like Martin and Gibson wouldn’t have started using them...
oh I have two Cordobas: C1M , plain matte, truss, what I really love is the 52mm but nut with thinned neck!( cause I hurtt my barre arm years ago, the other one Iberia Dolce has 50 nut and shorter scale being aye 7/8 sized specimen, now regently I just payed an ordered meself aye 3rd Cordoba fa 649€s , GK flaenco! looowww atcion cutaway model!!! my other two Cordobas are perfect in any way, but I read an review on That GK I ordered had sharpish frets rough..., better not mine! BECause my 2 Cordobas frets are so swell...but NO Worries!!! Thomann has very good customer servic, if a 650€ nylon string guitar has rough sharp frets Im gonna sen it back, keep it reelin Mr JIM HLLYes, with luv as always, Kimmo :)
Why not buy a real Spanish guitar, if you're in Europe? Cordobas really only make sense to American and Canadian buyers, as there really are no resellers here with established relationship with Spanish manufacturing companies. For what you're paying for a Chinese made guitar, it's way over priced imo. I used to build for Collings, here in Texas. If at all possible, I'd recommend supporting the Spanish builders and luthiers.
Best at 1.5 speed.
I bet it takes you 24 hrs to cook a 15 min pizza.
Took the words right out of my mouth.
But I bet it only takes you a few seconds to find something negative in everything in life!
...he definitely doesn't know what he's doing!
A bit more detail as to why you think that would be great!
Was looking forward to seeing a setup but got totally bored and left. Sorry.... Don't like to be rude.....
Unbelievable, a :30 minute video on "how to" and he talks through the whole thing and cuts the video when he finally gets to the part on "how to"
I guess I'm confused. First, this was never published as a "how to" and second, I showed taking all the measurements for everything so not sure what you think I left out.
It just seems to just get a lot of talk and an absolutely useless polish