DON'T CUT THE WIRES!!! You can easily disconnect the pins from the connector with an awl and a screw driver! Much better and faster option considering the voltage involved there
Hi is the upgrade to put a rsv4 stator on the Gen 2 Mines not gone yet but I want to be ready also have you upgraded the battery leads to stop the sprag damage cheers for the video 👍
Great instructional vid, but wire nuts have no place in a car or on a bike. Proper connectors, or a soldered and sealed connection, will keep weather and road grime out and prevent corrosion.
Thanks for the props, but that's your opinion. Wire nuts are used by audiophiles worldwide. May not be your choice, may not be good for all climates, but for many others the use of them is well founded.
Thanks!! Last time I replaced one on one of these bikes it was just a regular oe stator. I don't get down with all that craziness, Moffett and all that stuff. But that's just me.
The wires have now gotten cut twice on my new Rick's stator... I had no wire retainer in my flywheel cover, so how would I prevent/solve this? Obviously jb weld and a clamp would help, but I'm not so convinced that will fix it. Maybe multiple gaskets? Any advice?
Nice video, I did this with a used gen1 stator because it was way cheaper. I also installed a different rectifier and an oil sprinkler for cooling the stator. No problems for the last 7000km. If you don't change the rectifier the stator will burn again
@@countingsheeple2428 Yes, SH847AA is the part number. It's the rectifier of a Suzuki DL 1000 V-Strom DD 2014-2018. Be aware, there are a lot of fake rectifiers on the internet. Get the original Shindengen part with the part number 3280031J00. The part is quite a bit bigger than the Aprilia rectifier, but with a few modifications you can mount it in the same spot. Otherwise you can place it under the seat (outside facing the rear tire). It doesn't really matter where it sits, it just has to have a good airflow around it.
@@FoxFaderWorld The rectifier will not break, but it is a part of the problem. The stator-flywheel combination creates too much energy for the rectifier to dissipate when it's not used by the electrics (lights etc.). So either you get a weaker flywheel like it has been done in the 2008 and later models or you get a rectifier that's capable of dissipating enough energy. Otherwise the new stator will burn again. Aftermarket stators will usually even burn faster than the expensive OEM ones
Great vid! I have a weird problem , no charging issues have same voltage on display as you have in video, but under hard throttle bike splutters,and I also lose my speedo ( not rev counter ) some say stator maybe you could help with suggestions! Thanks from UK 🇬🇧
You need to figure out if fuel or fire is lacking under hard acceleration. How's the fuel system? Fuel pump, fuel screen in the tank? Thanks for your reply.
I just changed my oil, have less than 5 miles on it. Can I just rotate the black oil level apparatus out of the way or is an oil drain required for opening up the stator cover/flywheel assembly? Thanks
I never tried to do this without draining the oil. My guess is if not, then it would get messy. In your case, drain the oil in a clean pan and reuse it. Thanks for the reply.
@@FoxFaderWorld Thanks for this post Fox, but how many miles did your alternator last for and do you know why it failed.? I must add that bikes a credit to you, it's bloody spotless.! 🤔😁 OK the back of the oil tanks a bit dusty.
@@nigelmitchell351 Thank you. I do try to keep it clean. The bike had 25k miles when it failed. Failure is due to age and miles. This is just what happens to these stators. Thanks for replying. FF
@@FoxFaderWorld Truth! Mine failed at 24k ish....but it was replaced wrong (no locktite on mounting bolts inside which is vital!) so it failed almost immediately and had to be replaced again. I sold for a V4 soon after but I still miss this bike!
If you bought one of those cheap Chinese stators, be warned all kinds of things can go wrong. The reason a quality stator comes the hardware is, some stators are thinner than others so the correct length bolts are needed. If you are still going to use the oe bolts, make certain they are not too long and tighten only to a light snug.
With the dash showing the bike's total mileage, simply press the select button that's on the front side of the left hand controls. This only comes up when the bike is not rolling.
Great video but man....the music....thank God there's a mute button. Just curious....can the wire pins be removed from the brown plastic plug and then put back in instead of cutting the wires? Lastly, there are solder tubes available to solder the wires and have them waterproof, those wire nuts are not good. I like the idea of using those studs for aligning the cover and gasket.
I wouldn't say he's "crazy," but I was wondering why not just de-pin the connector going out and going in? They are just tapped terminals and are pretty easy to remove and replace.
![[TUTO] REGLAGE SYNCHRO - TPS - RICHESSE - APRILIA ROTAX V60](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UWwi8kTaprs/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks SO much, now I'm off to order the new stator instead of booking her in for the work 👍👍👍
@@jonathantatler You are very welcome. Thanks for your reply!
DON'T CUT THE WIRES!!! You can easily disconnect the pins from the connector with an awl and a screw driver! Much better and faster option considering the voltage involved there
That's the good thing about the internet, I show you how I do it, but you still have the option to do it how you'd like.
I did the same. So easy to undo them. No need to cut.
@@FoxFaderWorld Fox I'm a bit old school, so I take it there's no need of a keep on the flywheel magnets ?
Thanks for a great post !
@@nigelmitchell351 I'm not sure I understand, but the magnets make the electricity.
Yw.
@@FoxFaderWorld It used to said if a ferrous bridge was not laid across the magnets the magnetic flux would be lost.
Great video sir! This is exactly what I needed. Fishing the wires through the bike...genius! Thank you for your time sir!!!
@nctwaidumela Thanks a million and thanks for your reply!
I wish this guy was my local mechanic. Many thanks
You are welcome!
Hi is the upgrade to put a rsv4 stator on the Gen 2 Mines not gone yet but I want to be ready also have you upgraded the battery leads to stop the sprag damage cheers for the video 👍
I don't know if putting an RSV4 stator on a Gen 2. I have not upgraded any battery cables. Thanks for the response!
Great instructional vid, but wire nuts have no place in a car or on a bike. Proper connectors, or a soldered and sealed connection, will keep weather and road grime out and prevent corrosion.
Thanks for the props, but that's your opinion. Wire nuts are used by audiophiles worldwide. May not be your choice, may not be good for all climates, but for many others the use of them is well founded.
Good vid and sweet Tuono Factory.
Thank you kind sir.
Excellent video showing exactly how this should be done!
Any recommendations on a regulator/rectifier replacement?
Thanks!!
Last time I replaced one on one of these bikes it was just a regular oe stator. I don't get down with all that craziness, Moffett and all that stuff. But that's just me.
@@FoxFaderWorld haha, ok thanks man
The wires have now gotten cut twice on my new Rick's stator... I had no wire retainer in my flywheel cover, so how would I prevent/solve this? Obviously jb weld and a clamp would help, but I'm not so convinced that will fix it. Maybe multiple gaskets? Any advice?
This is so helpful thank you
@@shmittydad4 My pleasure. Thanks for your reply 👍🏾 😊
FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!! Great Video!! Thanks for that
Not a problem at all. Glad I could be of help.
Nice video, I did this with a used gen1 stator because it was way cheaper. I also installed a different rectifier and an oil sprinkler for cooling the stator. No problems for the last 7000km. If you don't change the rectifier the stator will burn again
Sweet! Do you have any recommendations on a replacement rectifier?
@@countingsheeple2428 Yes, SH847AA is the part number. It's the rectifier of a Suzuki DL 1000 V-Strom DD 2014-2018. Be aware, there are a lot of fake rectifiers on the internet. Get the original Shindengen part with the part number 3280031J00. The part is quite a bit bigger than the Aprilia rectifier, but with a few modifications you can mount it in the same spot. Otherwise you can place it under the seat (outside facing the rear tire). It doesn't really matter where it sits, it just has to have a good airflow around it.
@@Paolo1005 Thanks for the reply, Paolo! I'll try it out 👍
My OE rec has 25k heartbeats and it works fine still. When it goes belly-up, I'll go back OE. I don't overthink what's been engineered and proven.
@@FoxFaderWorld The rectifier will not break, but it is a part of the problem. The stator-flywheel combination creates too much energy for the rectifier to dissipate when it's not used by the electrics (lights etc.). So either you get a weaker flywheel like it has been done in the 2008 and later models or you get a rectifier that's capable of dissipating enough energy. Otherwise the new stator will burn again. Aftermarket stators will usually even burn faster than the expensive OEM ones
Great vid! I have a weird problem , no charging issues have same voltage on display as you have in video, but under hard throttle bike splutters,and I also lose my speedo ( not rev counter ) some say stator maybe you could help with suggestions! Thanks from UK 🇬🇧
You need to figure out if fuel or fire is lacking under hard acceleration. How's the fuel system? Fuel pump, fuel screen in the tank? Thanks for your reply.
Just installing my 4th ricks stator. Compufier RR didn't save me Trying the T12 cooling mod this time. Quoted $1760AU for oem replacement, lol.
Keep us updated!
Rm stator has a fix
Great video brother...very useful for DIYers hehe
Thank you! Hope this can help someone.
I just changed my oil, have less than 5 miles on it. Can I just rotate the black oil level apparatus out of the way or is an oil drain required for opening up the stator cover/flywheel assembly? Thanks
I never tried to do this without draining the oil. My guess is if not, then it would get messy. In your case, drain the oil in a clean pan and reuse it. Thanks for the reply.
Thank you for this video very informative 👍 I'll suggest you remove the brown connector! Replace it with another or just solder the cables straight 😉
Understood. Been there and done that. This is about simplicity.
@@FoxFaderWorld Thanks for this post Fox, but how many miles did your alternator last for and do you know why it failed.?
I must add that bikes a credit to you, it's bloody spotless.! 🤔😁
OK the back of the oil tanks a bit dusty.
@@nigelmitchell351 Thank you. I do try to keep it clean. The bike had 25k miles when it failed. Failure is due to age and miles. This is just what happens to these stators. Thanks for replying. FF
@@FoxFaderWorld Truth! Mine failed at 24k ish....but it was replaced wrong (no locktite on mounting bolts inside which is vital!) so it failed almost immediately and had to be replaced again. I sold for a V4 soon after but I still miss this bike!
@@Antmanmoto Vital is correct! Thanks for the input!
are the stator retaining hex bolts torque to yield? the new stator i ordered didn't come with any hardware
I even have the complete service manual, and couldn't find any information on the procedure
If you bought one of those cheap Chinese stators, be warned all kinds of things can go wrong. The reason a quality stator comes the hardware is, some stators are thinner than others so the correct length bolts are needed. If you are still going to use the oe bolts, make certain they are not too long and tighten only to a light snug.
Use thread lock on those bolts. You don’t want them coming out.
Hi how did you get the battery icon on the gauge to show you the charge?
With the dash showing the bike's total mileage, simply press the select button that's on the front side of the left hand controls. This only comes up when the bike is not rolling.
No need cutting those wires, lift the tank and see there are other ways getting to the other side
You should be pulling the wire stripper against the flat side, and never use those connectors
Thanks for your reply.
don't use those stupid screw cap connectors, they are rubbish,, solder or at worst proper crimps, other than that a good vidieo
Did you know that there are different qualities, levels or ratings of wire connectors? Thanks for your reply.
Great video but man....the music....thank God there's a mute button.
Just curious....can the wire pins be removed from the brown plastic plug and then put back in instead of cutting the wires? Lastly, there are solder tubes available to solder the wires and have them waterproof, those wire nuts are not good. I like the idea of using those studs for aligning the cover and gasket.
Yes you can pull the pins then reinstall them. As far as the wire nuts, by all means, use whatever else is available. Thanks for your reply.
You cup connector. You are crazy. Dont need to do this. Just play with wires and you will get troth another side of the engine.
🤙🏾
I wouldn't say he's "crazy," but I was wondering why not just de-pin the connector going out and going in? They are just tapped terminals and are pretty easy to remove and replace.
Easy? Fuck me...i barely know a motorbike has only two wheels...This is WAAAAAAY out of my league!
this is bad on so many levels .. wow.
1) no need to drain oli 2) no need to cut wire 3) always change the gasket.
omg
Hi! That's the good thing about the web, you can still do it your way! Thanks for the reply 😉