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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2021
- Unboxing video of the new hotend from Slice! will it be the king of extrusion?
NOTE: About the WARNINGS. Read them carefully before using the unit!!! I was just kidding.
-Slice was kind enough to send me a unit pre-sales for testing. So I will go through this with you all.
![[TH]FFWS SEA Spring 2024 Knockout Stage - Day 11](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qr0L1ab9dLE/mqdefault.jpg)
If you test extrusion volume, check out the work of CNC Kitchen.
Just because your extrudermotor does not skip, does not mean that you are not underextruding. You basically need to weigh the output and compare it to the weight exteuded ar lower speeds
How would this be possible? Extruder not skipping but underextruding. Either it skips or the filament slips backwards but there is no way the filament can be indefinetly compressed.
You work with a gear that diggs into plastic. The teeth of the gear deform the filament a little (cut into it). So the gear moves a longer distance than the filament does. It is neither skipping, nor slipping. In the speedprinting community this is very well known.
The impact is quite signifcant.
I didn't find the old video from one year ago. But maybe check CNC Kitchens current video "Easy Hotend Benchmark for Fast pritning profiles" out.
The graphs should give you some quick insight.
Excited to see how it'll look on the printer
This looks BEAST! Makes me want to start tweaking my 3d printers again lol
86 grams really isn't bad I think my dragon is 55. Can't wait to see this thing action
Don’t get the fittings find your own theirs are 54 grams just the fittings junk check fitting space
And less than 1/4 the price hehe
Ahh without fitting….. the fitting they supply are 54 grams alone lol go to fitting space and get g1/8 to 1/4” or 5mm barb 90 rotating fitting they are reasonable and proper just match the hose you select with the barb side you want cheers
i love how the first word in the description is already a typo, op really is that excited huh? 😂 can't wait to see more videos
Haha I didn't notice.. thanks. Corrected
Haha you're good dude tbh I was about ready to throw out my tronxy x5sa pro until I found out about your channel, can't thank you enough never really appreciated the platform at all now I'm having a blast with it lol
Looks like the socket head cap screws on both ends hold in the heater cartridges, since they don't rely on a friction fit to stay in place?
black and red, my two favorite colors.
i always wonder why you didint try the mosquito bad ass hotend im waiting the result love the normal version magnum continu your good work u did amazing avancements
Good idea that the material has a small diameter upwards.
the disadvantage is: the cables of the heaters and the thermistor lie in the air flow of the fan. a lateral guide would be the solution, so that the air flow could dissipate the heat unhindered.
Could you review the liquid version weights and flow
5:39 It's heat shield for prevent skin burns from hot nozzle. And also it prevent nozzle cooling by fan.
if we consider price ($110), speed (50mm³/s) and weight (28g), combined, i think the nova is a better overall package for a consumer printer. Btw they also sell 1x100w heater cartridges @24v.
Yet the declared 90 mm³/s are just crazy. This would allow printing giant stuff high speed with ≥1mm nozzles.
Seems like you'd just heat it up a bit and loosen off the insulator first, if you get the nozzle gummed up in there.
Wtf??? I am just now noticing Slice Engineering is a literal 15 minute drive from me??? Maybe I should show them some support :D
Which Direct drive extruder would you recommend? Thanks in advance.
Why did you add a reduction on the O-drive motors? Resolution issues? I'd expect the intertia matching to be better direct drive due to the relatively high motor inertia.
I found that at lower motor speed, it creates artifacts on the prints.. and I think it dues to cogging .. or the big magnets. The higher they spin, the better it gets, 2:1 improved quality
@@Vez3D Cogging torque is a likely culprit. Have you turned on cogging compensation? If you still have trouble, you can look for a motor with skewed laminations or use an inrunner but keep the reduction.
@@martylawson1638 anticogging is calibrated and on.. but it still happens. I dont think I will ever get rid of it entirely unless I change motors. But not tok sure which ones
@@Vez3D hobby motors are optimized to be cheap and powerful so cogging suffers. A 100-200W inrunner with more reduction, a much higher cpr encoder, and or a used/china servo motor would be how I'd look to reduce artifacts. Though it's probably not worth the trouble until you run out of power/acceleration on the current motors.
@@martylawson1638 my B plan is set already. If I ever get tired of the bldc. I would go back to stepper but running them at 48v. 0.9 degree have no artifacts
That is a monster
That's nice and all but WILL IT BLEND?
Mosquito-style hotends probably won't due to the way they're built. The hot blocks are attached to the heat sink by 4 small stainless steel tubes.
300$ for a hotend wow.
Very nice video. looking forward to seeing you print with it! i love mine ;)
the heatsink is not the standard mosquito heatsink by the way!
Right I now realize it
Mainsail seems to display wrong flow values. The travels movments are taken account and that's display a way higher volumetric flow than expected (like 28mm3/s for my e3D v6 wich is impossible)
Ill make sure to read with no travel
The second hole you think it is for a second thermistor is probably for heat balance in the geometry of he heat block, that is the way I would design a heat block, where you want constant even heat retention and distribution. I just stumbled upon these hot ends and they look clever especially with the separation of the typical single heat break into 4, not only for better heat separation but also mechanical rigidity and ease of one hand head changes. Brilliant!.
Can you put a link to it please?... scratch that.... BRO... Holy guacamole my guy $430....... that better be the last hot and I ever buy lol!
Side note... what extruded gear setup do you use, and do you also run O drive mottoes for your extruder?
Odrive is for AB motors..not E. On E i have the nema14 ldo round motor with the Hextrudort
Looks like a beast ... i agree the gaps will most likely cause some unwanted mess at the nozzle cover i wonder why they didnt use a silicone sock instead
Temperatur resistance
@@clemensexenberger2455 That's literally *only* a problem if you're printing PEEK, and you definitely don't need this nozzle to print PEEK.
Which stepper motor with plenty of horsepower do you use to move that weight?
ODrive
@@Vez3D "Peak current 120A per motor"
cough, coffee spilled... D6374 150kv is an engine for cnc milling with 70A max!
You mentioned odrive.
I'm doing a odrive setup.
Are you running through klipper
Yes
@@Vez3D I'm doing a servo bldc set up.
Fully 3d printed motor.
Am I able to get Pointers off you
@@simonlaker2139 i just filmed a full 45min "how to" vid.. i just need to do the editing now
@@Vez3D are you using the step direction interface or serial
@@simonlaker2139 step/dir
Hi. Where I can find your hotend set for mosquito?
Grabcad...look for vzbot
4:10 Looks for me like it is chemically nickel-plated.
They should just Crome the cr38 this is what real extruder surfaces are usually made of
Oh and if some say it comes off they never put it on properly
@@CC-kc5lb but you have think about it, getting something like this off is extremly hard, even if you are trying
how does it compare to supervolcano?
Never tested the super volcano
@@Vez3D i bought normal volcano. Thinking about getting super volcano when i start building my extra large printer. love the fact that E3D hotend can be but directly to small form factor directdrive extruders like H2 OR HEMERA. Somehow i hate the extra cooling block between extruder and hotend.
Who see this video and have an Ender 3 ... And for moments see this master piece on our machines 😆💪💪🔥🔥
Congrats for your videos 🇵🇹
For higher power try overvolting those heaters but only by a few volts
..."unboxing.." hehe
I beta tested this hotend. You can look on my channel and see a teardown and rebuild. This is the best HF hotedn on the market.
Oops! I dropped my monster sock for my Magnum hot end...
you can put a pt1000 AND a type k thermocouple, thats so cool! no more having to decide 😎
Why so expensive ?
To pay their lawyers?
For anyone wondering why we didn't use a silicone sock: the Magnum+ can exceed 500 C printing temperatures. Unfortunately, there is no silicone sock that can handle those temps for extended periods of time.
Hello Slice, how hot can the Magnum Plus go without a fan?
@@rexsolomon6325 Magnum+ is rated for continuous operation at 500 degrees Celsius. If you need to print continuously at that temperature, we would recommend moving to a liquid cooling set up, as most plastics that require such temperatures will have poor interlayer bond strength and significant warping without a heated enclosure.
It would still be good to have though. For high speed printing we need a lot of cooling and I found that its struggling to keep its heat to requested temp. So a sock will definitely help. If one wants to print a 300+ he can then remove the sock
@@Vez3D Are you using 100W or 50W? Reach out to our support team and we can help you with your cooling setup as well.
@@SliceEngineering 2x50watt. I think 2x100watt would be better for that big block.
That hotend costs more than my whole printer.
I have one that's 1000ms. It's by takoto
That's probably not thermal paste, but boron nitride paste which will harden with heat.
It's boron nitride thermal paste.
It will help to remove the heartbreak once it has been running high temps unlike cheap paste which will just melt everything together.
Why include 2x100W heaters when the thermistor can only go up to 300C?
its 2x50watt. thing is.. you dont need to go very high in temp. you need to be able to sustain that temp. thats why 2x50. Also, there is the option of another 450C+ thermistor. I dont know why they sent me the 300C one. I will probably change it for a PT100
My guess is also to have even heat on the large heat block to prevent a cold side
@@Vez3D or PT1000?
@@Vez3D Ah yes, that makes a lot of sense. Electric heaters are very efficient in the sense that all the incoming electric energy is converted to heat. Therefore running two in parallel to evenly heat up the nozzle doesn't introduce any additional electrical load or problems.
@@Vez3D Exactly, the plastic is melting at the same temperature ... melting more plastic per second only needs more heat per second (Watt), not more temperature. The only reason why one would need to increase the "heater temperature" is because the temperature is measured relatively far from the melted plastic it self and, conducting more heat from the heater through the plastic, requires to have a greater temperature across that heat path. So even if one has to set the temperature higher than normal, the plastic, on average, really get to the same temperature.
That being said, needing to go to more than 100°C over the regular temperature is, in my opinion, a sign of poor thermal design. The biggest resistance in the thermal path is likely the plastic it self, from its surface to its colder center. There's a risk of thermal degradation on the outer polymer. That is why "super volcano" extruders are longer, to increase the surface through which heat can be conducted to the polymer, thus lowering the thermal resistance and requiring less overheating.
The heaters open bottom is not a good design just melting the part directly
looks like that whole brainpower has been used during creation of 4 steel tubes, so much copper just to slap 2 heaters is just stupid.
ever use a mosquito? the bi-metalic heatbreak and the ensure the cold zone transition is perfect. I'm not sure how you can judge this without testing it or doing thermal analysis on how it was designed. The heatblock and the part that goes into the heatsink are very different, I would not pre-judge this without seeing how it compares to the Nova, it's small form factor, and can reach pretty high temps, I'd be interested to see some flow tests with it.
I agree that most of it is looks and copper (400W/m2K) vs alu (200) isn't really the challenge thermally. The challenge is bringing the heat from the surface of the plastic (
Get on with it.....
I have created a better dual heater
mind showing me ? :)
@@Vez3D i will post on the facebook group when i will complete it with the right material and the insulation. This could take some times, i dont' have time to spend to it at the moment
Looks extremly shitty.
Meh. Screw these guys and their patent trolling. I’ll never buy a slice product.
Dude, I feel this with the over 300 dollar price tag. If I get one, it will be piece by piece replacing parts of a clone.
meh another evil orange product, overly complicated design with messy boron paste
Complicated design compared to what?
@@REDxFROG 3d v6 ,a phaetus dragon, a nova the boron paste is the biggest issue it makes a mess and takes 12 to 24hrs to dry I see it more as a industrial type product for the everyday person wanting to print parts or something in a 3d printer it's too much simple works best not everyone's highly mechanical or patient (myself included to wait 24hrs to print with a new nozzle set up) just my opinion
But he's trying to beat his own Nova hotend with this one..
@@REDxFROG it doesn't make this overweighed bs a good hotend
@@sinfulf4i I use the regular mosquito magnum, and boron paste hardens in a few minutes at temperature, so not sure what you're talking about. It's a very simple assembly, taking it apart would be a bit messy, but cracking and cleaning the dried up paste is better than having the bolts seize up completely on a e3d copper plated volcano, had to toss out a few of those because the bolts couldn't be removed.
you should not support unethical businesses