Wow, you do great work, and this looks to be a good challenge! It will a beautiful guitar when it’s finished. Wonderful camera work too. Thanks for posting.
Great to see a restoration of a 40+ year old instrument. Very enjoyable episode, but was concerned when the neck tenon was breaking up, wondered how you would recover that but really interesting work. Looking forward to the next episodes.
Thanks a lot Paul. Actually this Neck was broken before and an other Luthier tryed to repair it b jut it didn't last for long so I have to take care about that... it's gonna me a Marathon:-) Best Regards Nik
Thanks a lot for your Feedback. For me too. Love watching stuff from my Colleges it's always interesting and educational. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
Nasty job. For me, I would've split the difference and heat up the pallet knives. Without knowing what kind of glue was used on previous repair and only applying heat to the innards would be safe. I agree with you about steam but on this job, I would have heated up the tenon and try get everything out. 1979 was my Junior year in High School and we had The Cars and Foreigner tearing up FM radio. It was such a great time!! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Thanks a lot for sharing your thoughts Ray. You are welcome. Wish you a merry Christmas and a great 2025 💫🕺🏻The second part of this repair will be released tomorrow at 6 p.m hope to meet you in the live chat. Best Regards Nik
@@petrekguitars Hi Nik, i hope your fine ! i have a 1964 L series Fender Jazzmasteur, like new, even the flight case... my toggle switch is a little bit hard, and here in France, it's difficult to have an answer, can i put a kind of grease or a connectic cleaner product ? i don't want to damage something to this "like me"(1964) old guitar 😅 take your time, it's not hurry , thank you very much dear Nik, Alain from France
@@youngscottpmu1387 Hi and thanks a lot for your question. This sounds like you have a great Instrument... congratulations. I use Kontakt 601 in such a situation or sometimes Ballistol oil which is like my old time favorite because it also lubricant and reduces friction. Hope this will help you out. Best Regards to France. Cheers Nik
@@petrekguitars Hi nik, thank U for the answer and your time ! I don't want, as an individual, to buy a big amont of product, because i would use these very few time, is there a natural product easy to find in a house, to solve this problem ? sorry Nik and thank U , Alain, Marseille, south of France
The problem I find with the dry removal method, is that you often break the wood rather than the glue joint. I have found dry heat to work best with minimal damage.
Thanks a lot for sharing your experience and thoughts. Normally if the neck is factory installed it will be very hard to remove it without heat or steam. But in this case the neck was broke out before and the previous Repair was not well done and the glue joint was weak so I decided to try it with the dry method. Best Regards Nik
"Leim und Spöne machen Möbel schöne!" Das ist hier aber eindeutig zuviel Lei M. Wie immer bei dir Genuß TV und immer etwas zum Mitnehmen wie jüngst bei den E-Bässen. Thx
People really should do their homework before handing over their instruments to a "luthier". The previous so called luthier made a mess and made your job tougher. I had a 1981 ES335 TD in tobacco burst with a coil tap. Had the trapeze removed and a stop tail put in before I purchased. Was done very well. Silly me sold it a number of years later because I never played it. I was Les Pauls through a Mesa Dual Rec covering all heavy 90's. Totally regret it. I've since picked up a 1990 cherry ES335... which is actually a nicer guitar than the 1981, but I still wish I hadn't sold it. Great work btw!!!
Thank you so much for watching my content, for your kind words and for sharing your experience with this Typ of Guitar. If you can get a 90´s Made go for it these are the Seepers. Incredible Instruments. In the 80´s there were also nice but not so good than in the 90`s. Best Regards Nik
@@petrekguitars Agreed!! I love Gibsons and the late 80s, early 90s are great quality and still 'affordable'! I own several right now. 1988 LP Custom black beauty, 1990 LP Standard ebony, 1990 LP Standard tobacco burst, 1990 ES335 cherry, 1993 LP Custom Plus heritage cherry flame top and a 1994 LP Special TV yellow. All of which are great Gibsons. I also have a 1974 LP Special dark brown burst, 2019 LP Junior dark burst, and a 2016 LP R8 Custom Shop iced tea burst factory aged. I love my Gibsons!!
@@dwillc6621 Thanks a lot for sharing Mate. This Sounds like you have. an amazing collection. Congratulations and enjoy your Instruments.. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
Hi, first of all congratulations for the wonderful video. There is always a lot to learn. Can I ask you what grease you use to lubricate vintage Fender tuners? Thanks in advance. Simon
Thanks a lot for watching and for your positive feedback. I use standard machine grease for this purpose nothing fancy. Hope this will help you out. Best Regards Nik
Hi Nik Dean here how are you my man? What happened to that poor guitar why do people treat instruments as such? I’ll never understand that being said I know you and your skills will put it back into proper playing capacities looking forward to seeing the second part been crazy sorry I haven’t caught up to all your videos just yet❤❤❤
Hey Dean. Thanks a lot for watching Mate. This was quite a journey... but in the end it turns out great. Yes what a unbelievable Story ...finding such a Instrument in the Trash is really amazing... Stay tuned for the next part. Enjoy the Video and all the best for you. Cheers Nik
@@petrekguitars absolutely the heart and soul you put into your work and the way you craft things I will leave it to you and your design when that day comes so can’t wait for that
You certainly have your work cut out for you Nik, that neck pocket is a mess! After watching how you handle repairs on other vintage instruments, I'm confident that you will make this guitar better than it was from the factory, since this is a Norlin era Gibson. I have a question about something I'm seeing in this neck joint: The wood that you peeled up with the iron from under the fretboard, and the wood on either side of the neck pocket on top of the neck pocket appear to be separate blocks of wood from the maple neck block under it. Are these some kind of spacers that they used in the factory to set the neck in place? Thank you for sharing this content with us Nik. I'll be watching how this job is done to the end.
Thank you so much for your feedback and for your question Harley. Yes you are absolutely correct. The wood that I peel off with the hot iron is like a wedge to get the correct neck angle witch is by the way very high on this Instrument. It's gonna be a long journey but my motivation is to get it done better than factory wise. I will reproduce the long neck tenon completely and make this neck sit as solid as possible in the body. Best Regards Nik
Thanks for your question. Of course it tears apart some wood fibers but the instrument is made out of plywood so the tear out stops at the next Layer. Best Regards Nik
Thanks a lot for your interest Alexander. This was really a repair Marathon and it requires more than one Video. Sorry for that but I will upload the following part every two weeks on Friday. Best Regards Nik
Thanks for your question. Of course you can use steam but like I explained I always try to avoid it if not really necessary. It can damage the lacquer and weaken glue joints that you don't want to get loose. So therefore I decided to make it this way. Best Regards Nik
@ yeah I heard you say the part about wanting to preserve the finish. I was talking about using steam for just that final struggle part where the tenon was giving so much trouble and ended up removing wood from the neck mounting surface portion of the body. Not steaming the entire thing from the beginning of the process. It really doesn’t matter I suppose. You got the neck out. Just wondered if the means justified the end. Also, I’m not questioning you or the method. Maybe I’m just thinking out loud lol. I’m definitely a fan of your work.
@@johnwhitaker545 Hey John, thanks for sharing your thoughts and for your positive feedback. Don't worry I don't get this wrong actually I am totally happy if people out there are sharing there options oftentimes it gives me more Ideas and it's very beneficial for myself because on every repair I make I learn a lot and this is what I love about being a Luthier. Thank you for your feedback you are very welcome. Best Regards Nik
It’s hard to say what was damaged before the first repair but I have to remove every loose piece of wood and all the glue before I can start the reconstruction of the long neck tenon. This will come up in the next parts of this repair series. Best Regards Nik
Nice work, per uual, but I think I agree that a less destructive approach to removing the neck might have saved you some time and work. It seems like the finish could be protected from steam, I don't see other repair videos where it's a major issue. Also, would it hurt to put some protection on your workbench, even as simple as a couple towels? It's really easy to ding or scratch a finish, and you don't seem too concerned about it in your process. It's something I have struggled with myself as an amateur builder.
Thanks a lot for your positive feedback and for sharing your thoughts. I alway try to avoid using steam not just to protect the lacquer a point which is even more important is that you can weaken glue joints you like to keep solid. For example the Body of this instrument is built out of plywood ( different layers of wood are pressed in the shape and glued together) steam or heat can weaken the glue between the layers and cause a lot of problems afterwards. I have experienced this myself back in the days and for me it's alway worth spending more time in a repair process than make it as quick as possible. That's surely also a reason why ma Videos are so long and I sometimes habe to separate them in Parts, like in this case:-) Best Regards Nik
Thanks for your question. But it's a ES 335 TD that's stamped in the sticker. I would upload a picture but it's not possible... sorry for that. Best Regards Nik
No it's not the only way to make it original as possible the good way to make it original as possible if you don't use the dry method you use heat and you release the glue with the heat and then you pull the whole tenant out all at one time without busting it all up you don't bust the tennant out and then glue wood back on and reshape a new tenant out of it. What you did is barbaric and silly and definitely not all original because you have to glue new wood to the damn thing to make it work
Thanks for your comment like I mentioned before the Tenon was broken when I got the Instrument to fix the repair from a College that try this back in the days.If you missed the shot feel free to check the scene round 5 min in the Video. For me this method works fine if you prefer another one ...feel free to use it. Stay tuned for the upcoming Part 2 it will be released next week. Best Regards Nik
Clearly your dry method don't work worth of shit look at the message you're having to use to get the tenant out that you busted out!!! I would rather the finish be a little messed up then have the wood all busted up like that
Thanks a lot for watching and for sharing your opinion. If you watch carefully you will notice that the crack in the tenon was caused from the damage/break from before I got the Instrument ...I was very happy to get the neck out with nearly no tear out and of cause you can use the steaming method it totally up to you. This was just my way to solve this problem.... Best Regards Nik
🔷Fender Jaguar 1965 Vintage Guitar Repair Story🔷
▶th-cam.com/video/8CSYdMZjHr0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sOImka2cRQ1wASSw◀
For me this content is better than cable. How is there only 20% of us ?
Thank you so much for your Feedback Mate. This is so motivating to hear...Thanks for your support. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
You're like the Bob Ross of guitar luthiery to me. Very educative and relaxing, well created content. Thank you! :)
Thank you so much for your kind words. Great that you enjoy watching my work👍🕺🏻I take it as- compliment 👌Best Regards Nik
Those Bill Lawrence-designed "tarback" pickups are some of my favorite Gibson pickups ever. Many SGs in the 1970s had them as well.
Thanks a lot for sharing your experiences Mate. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
Great work as usual. Such a treat to watch a master at work. A++++ sir!
Thank you so much John. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
When you said that only 20% of the people I sucribed I ran to do so, just to realize that I was already a subscriber, great content, man
!
Hey Diego, thank you so much for your message. And thanks for watching and supporting my channel. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
Wow, you do great work, and this looks to be a good challenge! It will a beautiful guitar when it’s finished. Wonderful camera work too.
Thanks for posting.
Thank you so much for your positive feedback and your kind words. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
Interesting video as always Mr. Petrek, cheers!
Thank you so much for saying this 🙏🕺🏻You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
I really like your channel. You're a fantastic luthier who's very passionate about his work..(even when you get hurt..)
Thank you so much for saying this. This ia really a great motivation for me. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
so glad you uploaded new video bro
Thanks for saying this Mate. There is a lot of interest stuff coming up in this he future 👍You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
Great to see a restoration of a 40+ year old instrument. Very enjoyable episode, but was concerned when the neck tenon was breaking up, wondered how you would recover that but really interesting work. Looking forward to the next episodes.
Thanks a lot Paul. Actually this Neck was broken before and an other Luthier tryed to repair it b jut it didn't last for long so I have to take care about that... it's gonna me a Marathon:-) Best Regards Nik
Always interested in the ways other luthiers attack a problem 👍
Thanks a lot for your Feedback. For me too. Love watching stuff from my Colleges it's always interesting and educational. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
Thank you. Can't wait for next episode.
You are welcome. Thanks for your interest. Best Regards Nik
Nasty job. For me, I would've split the difference and heat up the pallet knives. Without knowing what kind of glue was used on previous repair and only applying heat to the innards would be safe. I agree with you about steam but on this job, I would have heated up the tenon and try get everything out. 1979 was my Junior year in High School and we had The Cars and Foreigner tearing up FM radio. It was such a great time!! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Thanks a lot for sharing your thoughts Ray. You are welcome. Wish you a merry Christmas and a great 2025 💫🕺🏻The second part of this repair will be released tomorrow at 6 p.m hope to meet you in the live chat. Best Regards Nik
Incredible work!
Thank you so much for saying this Tony. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
Another great video thanks
Thank you so much for saying that. Best Regards Nik
so excited
Thanks for your interest ...it´s gonna be an interesting one. Hope to meet you in the live Premier Chat on Friday. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
Art of gold
Thanks a lot for your Feedback. Best Regards Nik
@@petrekguitars Hi Nik, i hope your fine ! i have a 1964 L series Fender Jazzmasteur, like new, even the flight case... my toggle switch is a little bit hard, and here in France, it's difficult to have an answer, can i put a kind of grease or a connectic cleaner product ? i don't want to damage something to this "like me"(1964) old guitar 😅 take your time, it's not hurry , thank you very much dear Nik, Alain from France
@@youngscottpmu1387 Hi and thanks a lot for your question. This sounds like you have a great Instrument... congratulations. I use Kontakt 601 in such a situation or sometimes Ballistol oil which is like my old time favorite because it also lubricant and reduces friction. Hope this will help you out. Best Regards to France. Cheers Nik
@@petrekguitars Hi nik, thank U for the answer and your time ! I don't want, as an individual, to buy a big amont of product, because i would use these very few time, is there a natural product easy to find in a house, to solve this problem ? sorry Nik and thank U , Alain, Marseille, south of France
@@youngscottpmu1387 You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
J'ai une vieille acoustique qui aurait bien besoin de tes talents 🙂
Thanks a lot for your feedback. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
Interesting. Video? I enjoyed. It❤
Thanks for saying this. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
The problem I find with the dry removal method, is that you often break the wood rather than the glue joint. I have found dry heat to work best with minimal damage.
Thanks a lot for sharing your experience and thoughts. Normally if the neck is factory installed it will be very hard to remove it without heat or steam. But in this case the neck was broke out before and the previous Repair was not well done and the glue joint was weak so I decided to try it with the dry method. Best Regards Nik
"Leim und Spöne machen Möbel schöne!" Das ist hier aber eindeutig zuviel Lei M. Wie immer bei dir Genuß TV und immer etwas zum Mitnehmen wie jüngst bei den E-Bässen. Thx
Vielen herzlichen Dank Alexander. BG Nik
People really should do their homework before handing over their instruments to a "luthier". The previous so called luthier made a mess and made your job tougher. I had a 1981 ES335 TD in tobacco burst with a coil tap. Had the trapeze removed and a stop tail put in before I purchased. Was done very well. Silly me sold it a number of years later because I never played it. I was Les Pauls through a Mesa Dual Rec covering all heavy 90's. Totally regret it. I've since picked up a 1990 cherry ES335... which is actually a nicer guitar than the 1981, but I still wish I hadn't sold it. Great work btw!!!
Thank you so much for watching my content, for your kind words and for sharing your experience with this Typ of Guitar. If you can get a 90´s Made go for it these are the Seepers. Incredible Instruments. In the 80´s there were also nice but not so good than in the 90`s. Best Regards Nik
@@petrekguitars Agreed!! I love Gibsons and the late 80s, early 90s are great quality and still 'affordable'! I own several right now. 1988 LP Custom black beauty, 1990 LP Standard ebony, 1990 LP Standard tobacco burst, 1990 ES335 cherry, 1993 LP Custom Plus heritage cherry flame top and a 1994 LP Special TV yellow. All of which are great Gibsons. I also have a 1974 LP Special dark brown burst, 2019 LP Junior dark burst, and a 2016 LP R8 Custom Shop iced tea burst factory aged. I love my Gibsons!!
@@dwillc6621 Thanks a lot for sharing Mate. This Sounds like you have. an amazing collection. Congratulations and enjoy your Instruments.. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
Hi, first of all congratulations for the wonderful video. There is always a lot to learn.
Can I ask you what grease you use to lubricate vintage Fender tuners? Thanks in advance.
Simon
Thanks a lot for watching and for your positive feedback. I use standard machine grease for this purpose nothing fancy. Hope this will help you out. Best Regards Nik
My jolly good sir, is that a surgical kidney plate you used to put in screws and the bridge 3:33
Yes that's correct...Best Regards Nik
I had an Aria 335 copy that collapsed like this. I didn’t know Gibsons could fold up like this as well
Thanks for sharing. Interesting .... Yes but thus was broken before and the repair that was made didn't last for long. Best Regards Nik
Hi Nik Dean here how are you my man? What happened to that poor guitar why do people treat instruments as such? I’ll never understand that being said I know you and your skills will put it back into proper playing capacities looking forward to seeing the second part been crazy sorry I haven’t caught up to all your videos just yet❤❤❤
Hey Dean. Thanks a lot for watching Mate. This was quite a journey... but in the end it turns out great. Yes what a unbelievable Story ...finding such a Instrument in the Trash is really amazing... Stay tuned for the next part. Enjoy the Video and all the best for you. Cheers Nik
@ absolutely my friend. Look forward to seeing what you do to it. I’m still going to get you to build me a guitar one day.😎
@@deanbartone8187 You wil Mate.. I am sure about that...
@@petrekguitars absolutely the heart and soul you put into your work and the way you craft things I will leave it to you and your design when that day comes so can’t wait for that
@@deanbartone8187 You are welcome. Mate. Best Regards Nik
You certainly have your work cut out for you Nik, that neck pocket is a mess! After watching how you handle repairs on other vintage instruments, I'm confident that you will make this guitar better than it was from the factory, since this is a Norlin era Gibson.
I have a question about something I'm seeing in this neck joint: The wood that you peeled up with the iron from under the fretboard, and the wood on either side of the neck pocket on top of the neck pocket appear to be separate blocks of wood from the maple neck block under it. Are these some kind of spacers that they used in the factory to set the neck in place?
Thank you for sharing this content with us Nik. I'll be watching how this job is done to the end.
Thank you so much for your feedback and for your question Harley. Yes you are absolutely correct. The wood that I peel off with the hot iron is like a wedge to get the correct neck angle witch is by the way very high on this Instrument. It's gonna be a long journey but my motivation is to get it done better than factory wise. I will reproduce the long neck tenon completely and make this neck sit as solid as possible in the body. Best Regards Nik
Wow what a great looking shank you could sell them on the down low
Thanks for your feedback ....but not for sale:-) Best Regards Nik
Very nice repair and process . Please put some grease on your vises 😉😭🐭🐁
Thanks a lot for wand for your positive comment. You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
Does all that wiggling around like that stretch out the wood?
Thanks for your question. Of course it tears apart some wood fibers but the instrument is made out of plywood so the tear out stops at the next Layer. Best Regards Nik
I waited a long time! I thought it was complete! I'll have to wait longer! This shouldn't be done kkkkkkkkk!!!!
Thanks a lot for your interest Alexander. This was really a repair Marathon and it requires more than one Video. Sorry for that but I will upload the following part every two weeks on Friday. Best Regards Nik
@ Owwww my brother! No need for excuses! My comment was a joke! I'm looking forward to the next videos! thanks from your fan!
@@AlexandreF.Hampel Thanks Mate . You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
When he threw the strings into that pile I knew this guitar was gonna be fixed.
Thanks for your feedback and for sharing your thoughts🙂 You are welcome. Best Regards Nik
So come on how many times have you missed the string bin? 😀
😉That’s a good question … in this Video twice 👌But in other Videos uncountable times to be honest 💫🕺🏻Best Regards Nik
Basically the way I have done it before and steaming causes more damage if you are trying to save the finish.
I don't do resets anymore.
Thanks a lot for your comment Richard and for sharing your experience. Best Regards Nik
Couldn’t you have just used a little bit of steam there towards the end? Instead of all that wrenching? That seemed pretty destructive
Thanks for your question. Of course you can use steam but like I explained I always try to avoid it if not really necessary. It can damage the lacquer and weaken glue joints that you don't want to get loose. So therefore I decided to make it this way. Best Regards Nik
@ yeah I heard you say the part about wanting to preserve the finish. I was talking about using steam for just that final struggle part where the tenon was giving so much trouble and ended up removing wood from the neck mounting surface portion of the body. Not steaming the entire thing from the beginning of the process. It really doesn’t matter I suppose. You got the neck out. Just wondered if the means justified the end. Also, I’m not questioning you or the method. Maybe I’m just thinking out loud lol. I’m definitely a fan of your work.
@@johnwhitaker545 Hey John, thanks for sharing your thoughts and for your positive feedback. Don't worry I don't get this wrong actually I am totally happy if people out there are sharing there options oftentimes it gives me more Ideas and it's very beneficial for myself because on every repair I make I learn a lot and this is what I love about being a Luthier. Thank you for your feedback you are very welcome. Best Regards Nik
Was this one made in Kalamazoo? Was it stored for a long time in a super dry place?
Thanks for your question. Yes that's correct. Best Regards Nik
Was that damage caused by you taking it a part like that or was that part of the previous break...
It’s hard to say what was damaged before the first repair but I have to remove every loose piece of wood and all the glue before I can start the reconstruction of the long neck tenon. This will come up in the next parts of this repair series. Best Regards Nik
16:47 No, that's the short tenon.
Thanks for watching and for sharing your opinion. Best Regards Nik
Isn't that an ES-347?
Thanks for your question Matthew. It's ES-335 TD that's what ist stamped on the Sticker in the F-hole. Best Regards Nik
i Have a Dog ear Gibson 330, these pickups look interesting
Thanks for sharing. Uhh I love P-90 these pickup sounds amazing especially on ES Models. Best Regards Nik
Nice work, per uual, but I think I agree that a less destructive approach to removing the neck might have saved you some time and work. It seems like the finish could be protected from steam, I don't see other repair videos where it's a major issue. Also, would it hurt to put some protection on your workbench, even as simple as a couple towels? It's really easy to ding or scratch a finish, and you don't seem too concerned about it in your process. It's something I have struggled with myself as an amateur builder.
Thanks a lot for your positive feedback and for sharing your thoughts. I alway try to avoid using steam not just to protect the lacquer a point which is even more important is that you can weaken glue joints you like to keep solid. For example the Body of this instrument is built out of plywood ( different layers of wood are pressed in the shape and glued together) steam or heat can weaken the glue between the layers and cause a lot of problems afterwards. I have experienced this myself back in the days and for me it's alway worth spending more time in a repair process than make it as quick as possible. That's surely also a reason why ma Videos are so long and I sometimes habe to separate them in Parts, like in this case:-) Best Regards Nik
13:49 curses in English 😀
@@lesterfalcon1350 💫🕺🏻👍
🤔ES 347 G
Thanks for your question. But it's a ES 335 TD that's stamped in the sticker. I would upload a picture but it's not possible... sorry for that. Best Regards Nik
how do I fast forward? ughhhh
I don’t know in practice this is not manageable 😉💁🏻♂️Enjoy the Video. Best Regards Nik
No it's not the only way to make it original as possible the good way to make it original as possible if you don't use the dry method you use heat and you release the glue with the heat and then you pull the whole tenant out all at one time without busting it all up you don't bust the tennant out and then glue wood back on and reshape a new tenant out of it. What you did is barbaric and silly and definitely not all original because you have to glue new wood to the damn thing to make it work
Thanks for your comment like I mentioned before the Tenon was broken when I got the Instrument to fix the repair from a College that try this back in the days.If you missed the shot feel free to check the scene round 5 min in the Video. For me this method works fine if you prefer another one ...feel free to use it. Stay tuned for the upcoming Part 2 it will be released next week. Best Regards Nik
Clearly your dry method don't work worth of shit look at the message you're having to use to get the tenant out that you busted out!!! I would rather the finish be a little messed up then have the wood all busted up like that
Thanks a lot for watching and for sharing your opinion. If you watch carefully you will notice that the crack in the tenon was caused from the damage/break from before I got the Instrument ...I was very happy to get the neck out with nearly no tear out and of cause you can use the steaming method it totally up to you. This was just my way to solve this problem.... Best Regards Nik