The asymmetric tail is correct for the Corsair. Several 3-view drawings and good reference photos show this to be the case. The instructions make the mistake of showing the linkage on both of the upper surfaces, when it should only be starboard side I believe. Great build as always, Gary! Thanks for the video.
Ken, thanks so much for the info - saves me an afternoon of looking at pictures of Corsairs (not that that's a bad thing, but things to do!). An interesting design idea to have left-right redundancy (like on the later A-10) but must have made rigging the trim lines interesting. Anyway, many thanks for the info and kudos too you and to the kit makers for it!
@@garys_stuff You're quite welcome, Gary! I've got this kit in the stash and your build video has given me inspiration to move it to the top of the build pile. Cheers!
I had to look this up myself and it's an interesting setup. In some ways it would also save on equipment needed to build it as you need just one set of equipment to make them rather than two sets, one for each side.
@@Adam_Boots Yes, that's correct. You get economy of scale, which helps reduce overall cost. I can't help but think however, that by having the inspection panels on the underside of one of the horizontal stabilizers, it made for less than ideal access for maintenance personnel.
There are linkages on both sides, but one is short and one long on the upper surface and reversed on the lower surfaces. I had a look at Tamiya and Hasegawa kits that I built.
I have just got the 1/76 Revell rebox of the old Matchbox Char B.1 and Renault FT.17 with a scenic display base. The surprising thing about it is: How crisp and sharp the mouldings are with next-to-no flash. Another surprising thing about a kit, from such an old tooling, is: the plastic is clean and dry, not smothered in mould-release grease
What a sweet little kit! The little cockpit was quite nice and the aero ring on the front of the cowl precluded masking it. The reshaped wingtip are quite subtle. The kit markings were interesting but ones you added were excellent -- memories of Hampton "Hammy' Gray, V.C., RCNVR, deceased 9 August 1945. Nicely done, Gary.
First kit I did last year - as you say, a little fiddly in places and I can see where I made a mistake now (🙂) but would happily recommend it to people...
The simplicity is an illusion. In the first place Gary is never in a hurry and he tries everything and trims and adjusts it. Secondly, he applies cement after the part is in place, and often from behind, so he isn't hurried by parts with drying cement on them. It's a great technique, and when he wants a break he gets a coffee. Lovely & thoughtful.
@@randytaylor1258 We all know that a great deal off dry fitting is done by Gary, I was not implying it's simple, some builds are easier, we all find a all was try to convey, with Gary's relaxed manor he makes look simple, we appreciate the amount of man hours that go on off camera.
@@jimbraiden2094 I wasn't really disagreeing with you. Gary has a very relaxed style that belies his care. Anyone can make an elephant disappear on TV-- real magic is on a table in front of you. That Buccaneer could have been a live-to-tape disaster but Gary made it seem simple -- again.
Guys, it's all smoke and mirrors...! Yes, what I show is a small part of what actually is filmed (or doesn't get filmed) and I could easily do quite a good blooper reel. Essentially all I want to do is show how an average bloke like me who likes to make kits can put some of this stuff together. Some kits are a lot, LOT more simple than others, and that's what I'd like to convey if someone wants to make (say) a starter set Spitfire. But also I don't want to make everything looks easy and hassle free in case someone who has never made anything before gets something like the gecko Katy and is put off model making for life! Most of all I appreciate the help and understanding I get from both you gentlemen! In summary - I think we all agree! Have great day chaps!!
Hi Gary.. I know you like adding a bit of depth to some items - like the Pilot's Notes in the Anson and map in the Katy. Maybe for the seatbelts glue the decals to a sheet of paper, for extra depth, then cut them out and glue them in place? Then they are still flexible enough to follow contours, but have a little depth :) Ref the rudder moulding. My guess is they did two pieces to avoid any undercuts and possible voids in the part if it was all one piece, so it was a manufacturing issue not a model choice. The horizontal stabilisers look a slightly different shape in the instructions to the parts as well, plus the actuator on side is better moulded. I noticed with the yellow engine cowling you didn't undercoat in white as you do for propeller tips. Did you not want it too vibrant, or think the silver undercoat was close enough?
Something Paramjit at Airfix suggested for straps was to pit the decal onto metal foil - thicker than aluminium foil so something like the foil from a wine bottle. Works very well, but can be fiddly to cut! I think the yellow was OK with the silver underneath plus I could have chipped some off to expose the metal colour which wouldn't have worked with a white undercoat.
There are plenty of decent Revell kits - a friend of mine will tell you to avoid the A380 like the plague but otherwise there are some really good kits. Their F-15E I did a while back was excellent.
A nice looking result overall however a few things to note. A decal in real life is painted on so that it chips in the same way as the top coat of paint so next time try chipping over the decals. U can the decals on first then practice chipping with a fine brush to make it look a little more authentic. Especially with those hide markings. Another thing is to try using a very dark wash for the panels lines of a dark blue aircraft to pull out those sharp details. Also remember that chipping occurs in the centre of panels (less for certain) but remember to put some in there and done forget those filthy exhaust stains. One final thing to try is to paint, decal then put a clear cote down to protect the paint so u can get ur enamel products in there without any harm. Great video tho.
Thanks Ernie - this was done in a bit of a rush and I'm not sure the chipping was done correctly in any sense. I am practising on another kit and hope the results will be better in future. Thanks for the tips.
These are markings for the UK Pacific fleet aircraft - they got rid of red circles so as to prevent friendly fire confusion with Japanese markings. There were an interesting and wide variety of alternatives in the Pacific!
Nice build Gary, good cockpit detail for the scale. I have always been a fan of Revell, for longer than I care to remember. Shame they went under Stateside a few years back. It would be interesting to know quite which moulds were bought by Revell Germany. The remainder were bought by Atlantis Models, who have done a good job in releasing some rarely seen oldies. Regards, Mike.
I didn’t know this plane existed before my return to modelling and it has fast become a favourite and amongst the some 34 models I now have sitting in boxes, I have as many Corsairs as I do wonderful Spitfires!! Your build here Gary has been great to watch as I do have the same kit however I am fuming that I shall also have two part number 38’s!!! How can this happen? I have just seen another build that had the nose decals copied rather than mirrored! I wonder how common this error is from manufacturer’s? Both different in these cases. Anyway terrific video Gary Bob England
You did'nt mention all the filling you had to do and as for the tail plane....... me thinks an error was made in the instructions and instead of 2 different stabilisers you got 2 of the same. Revell being Revell !!!!!! You may think this is all right, I do not, test it against another kit. Apart from that I do like your shows, keep up the good work.
The kit looks good. Good weathering, but did you forget weathering on the decals? Were there no yellow tips on the propeller, with the Royal Navy Corsairs? Too bad the option wasn't there for a folded wing like the Seafire. Thank you for the video, you give me good tips.
Cheers Kris. Wing foild would have been great but this is at the inexpensive end of the market so limited parts count, etc. I think I may have missed the yellow tips... mea culpa.
love the Corsair, I have 4 of them in my stash. Great engine detail and the cooling fins option. How do you find the time to build all these kits, have you got staff ? lol.
@@garys_stuff Well your presentations certainly appear unhurried considering the timescale to produce a very nice model. I have half built models thatv'e been in progress since 2000 ! Gulp...
![[TH]FFWS SEA 2024 Fall - Knockout Stage Day 5](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/N2tl9xkQyyU/mqdefault.jpg)
![ถามตรงๆ กับ อาจตุพร ทำไม ประเทศไทย ใครเป็นนายก ก็โดนด่า พอออกเเล้วคนคิดถึง!!?? l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3YFLMXxBGAs/mqdefault.jpg)
The asymmetric tail is correct for the Corsair. Several 3-view drawings and good reference photos show this to be the case. The instructions make the mistake of showing the linkage on both of the upper surfaces, when it should only be starboard side I believe. Great build as always, Gary! Thanks for the video.
Ken, thanks so much for the info - saves me an afternoon of looking at pictures of Corsairs (not that that's a bad thing, but things to do!). An interesting design idea to have left-right redundancy (like on the later A-10) but must have made rigging the trim lines interesting. Anyway, many thanks for the info and kudos too you and to the kit makers for it!
@@garys_stuff You're quite welcome, Gary! I've got this kit in the stash and your build video has given me inspiration to move it to the top of the build pile. Cheers!
I had to look this up myself and it's an interesting setup. In some ways it would also save on equipment needed to build it as you need just one set of equipment to make them rather than two sets, one for each side.
@@Adam_Boots Yes, that's correct. You get economy of scale, which helps reduce overall cost. I can't help but think however, that by having the inspection panels on the underside of one of the horizontal stabilizers, it made for less than ideal access for maintenance personnel.
There are linkages on both sides, but one is short and one long on the upper surface and reversed on the lower surfaces. I had a look at Tamiya and Hasegawa kits that I built.
I have just got the 1/76 Revell rebox of the old Matchbox Char B.1 and Renault FT.17 with a scenic display base.
The surprising thing about it is: How crisp and sharp the mouldings are with next-to-no flash.
Another surprising thing about a kit, from such an old tooling, is: the plastic is clean and dry, not smothered in mould-release grease
What a sweet little kit! The little cockpit was quite nice and the aero ring on the front of the cowl precluded masking it. The reshaped wingtip are quite subtle.
The kit markings were interesting but ones you added were excellent -- memories of Hampton "Hammy' Gray, V.C., RCNVR, deceased 9 August 1945.
Nicely done, Gary.
Cheers Randy, I appreciate it.
Good to see the BPF represented!
I love these roundels, what can I say?
@@garys_stuff
It's character, sir.
My Academy 1/48 and Airfix 72nd tailplanes were the same.
Yes always good to see a British Pacific Fleet birds..
Crackin build Gary. Great job.
Thanks 👍
First kit I did last year - as you say, a little fiddly in places and I can see where I made a mistake now (🙂) but would happily recommend it to people...
Another great build, Gary. Getting better and better. Glad to have been along on your journey. Your friend, Tom.
Thanks dude, it's been great having you along!
Nice one for an intermediate build, you have skill set that makes it look straight forward, and like everything you get what pay for.
Thank you Gary.
The simplicity is an illusion. In the first place Gary is never in a hurry and he tries everything and trims and adjusts it. Secondly, he applies cement after the part is in place, and often from behind, so he isn't hurried by parts with drying cement on them.
It's a great technique, and when he wants a break he gets a coffee. Lovely & thoughtful.
@@randytaylor1258 We all know that a great deal off dry fitting is done by Gary, I was not implying it's simple, some builds are easier, we all find a all was try to convey, with Gary's relaxed manor he makes look simple, we appreciate the amount of man hours that go on off camera.
@@jimbraiden2094
I wasn't really disagreeing with you. Gary has a very relaxed style that belies his care. Anyone can make an elephant disappear on TV-- real magic is on a table in front of you. That Buccaneer could have been a live-to-tape disaster but Gary made it seem simple -- again.
Guys, it's all smoke and mirrors...! Yes, what I show is a small part of what actually is filmed (or doesn't get filmed) and I could easily do quite a good blooper reel. Essentially all I want to do is show how an average bloke like me who likes to make kits can put some of this stuff together. Some kits are a lot, LOT more simple than others, and that's what I'd like to convey if someone wants to make (say) a starter set Spitfire. But also I don't want to make everything looks easy and hassle free in case someone who has never made anything before gets something like the gecko Katy and is put off model making for life! Most of all I appreciate the help and understanding I get from both you gentlemen! In summary - I think we all agree! Have great day chaps!!
Looks good.
Thanks Ian!
Hi Gary.. I know you like adding a bit of depth to some items - like the Pilot's Notes in the Anson and map in the Katy. Maybe for the seatbelts glue the decals to a sheet of paper, for extra depth, then cut them out and glue them in place? Then they are still flexible enough to follow contours, but have a little depth :)
Ref the rudder moulding. My guess is they did two pieces to avoid any undercuts and possible voids in the part if it was all one piece, so it was a manufacturing issue not a model choice. The horizontal stabilisers look a slightly different shape in the instructions to the parts as well, plus the actuator on side is better moulded.
I noticed with the yellow engine cowling you didn't undercoat in white as you do for propeller tips. Did you not want it too vibrant, or think the silver undercoat was close enough?
Something Paramjit at Airfix suggested for straps was to pit the decal onto metal foil - thicker than aluminium foil so something like the foil from a wine bottle. Works very well, but can be fiddly to cut! I think the yellow was OK with the silver underneath plus I could have chipped some off to expose the metal colour which wouldn't have worked with a white undercoat.
@@garys_stuff thanks Gary. Good point about the chipping :) Handy technique for battle damage too :)
Great job Gary, I now believe that I to could tackle a Revell kit as there are some nice subjects out there. Thanks.
There are plenty of decent Revell kits - a friend of mine will tell you to avoid the A380 like the plague but otherwise there are some really good kits. Their F-15E I did a while back was excellent.
Cool little kit. Love the Corsair. Thanks for sharing Gary. Happy days and model on! 😎🇨🇦
Thanks 👍
Enjoyed the build Gary i always like to see 1/72 given an outing . Regards Gav.
Cheers Gav! Breaking the cycle of 1/48th fighters and 1/72nd bombers for a moment. mind you, the new 1/72 Meteor has arrived too...
Always found that Revell kits are abit gappy in places.
A nice looking result overall however a few things to note. A decal in real life is painted on so that it chips in the same way as the top coat of paint so next time try chipping over the decals. U can the decals on first then practice chipping with a fine brush to make it look a little more authentic. Especially with those hide markings. Another thing is to try using a very dark wash for the panels lines of a dark blue aircraft to pull out those sharp details. Also remember that chipping occurs in the centre of panels (less for certain) but remember to put some in there and done forget those filthy exhaust stains. One final thing to try is to paint, decal then put a clear cote down to protect the paint so u can get ur enamel products in there without any harm. Great video tho.
Thanks Ernie - this was done in a bit of a rush and I'm not sure the chipping was done correctly in any sense. I am practising on another kit and hope the results will be better in future. Thanks for the tips.
It does look nice,overall,Gary👍😎. But it's a shame about the tail part being duplicated 🙃
Goofy.
Superb what air force is that Gary
These are markings for the UK Pacific fleet aircraft - they got rid of red circles so as to prevent friendly fire confusion with Japanese markings. There were an interesting and wide variety of alternatives in the Pacific!
@@garys_stuff thanks mate I didn’t know that ,many thanks Gary
I feel like i built this kit some years back - build was ok but not sure I got my colours quite right
Still on the lookout for a really good FAA Far East blue - hankering after a 1/48 Hellcat from 800NAS in 1945...
Nice build Gary, good cockpit detail for the scale. I have always been a fan of Revell, for longer than I care to remember. Shame they went under Stateside a few years back. It would be interesting to know quite which moulds were bought by Revell Germany. The remainder were bought by Atlantis Models, who have done a good job in releasing some rarely seen oldies. Regards, Mike.
Well worth checking out some of the more recent Revell kits. Their F-15E I did a while back was very good indeed.
I didn’t know this plane existed before my return to modelling and it has fast become a favourite and amongst the some 34 models I now have sitting in boxes, I have as many Corsairs as I do wonderful Spitfires!!
Your build here Gary has been great to watch as I do have the same kit however I am fuming that I shall also have two part number 38’s!!! How can this happen? I have just seen another build that had the nose decals copied rather than mirrored! I wonder how common this error is from manufacturer’s? Both different in these cases.
Anyway terrific video Gary
Bob
England
Does this model fit weell?
You did'nt mention all the filling you had to do and as for the tail plane....... me thinks an error was made in the instructions and instead of 2 different stabilisers you got 2 of the same. Revell being Revell !!!!!! You may think this is all right, I do not, test it against another kit. Apart from that I do like your shows, keep up the good work.
The kit looks good. Good weathering, but did you forget weathering on the decals? Were there no yellow tips on the propeller, with the Royal Navy Corsairs? Too bad the option wasn't there for a folded wing like the Seafire. Thank you for the video, you give me good tips.
Cheers Kris. Wing foild would have been great but this is at the inexpensive end of the market so limited parts count, etc. I think I may have missed the yellow tips... mea culpa.
@@garys_stuff
No, not mea culpa. Canary yellow.
@@randytaylor1258 🤣🤣🤣🤣
How did you do the chipping? Did you just scratch the paint off
love the Corsair, I have 4 of them in my stash. Great engine detail and the cooling fins option. How do you find the time to build all these kits, have you got staff ? lol.
I don't have staff, but it is my full-time occupation!
@@garys_stuff
Well your presentations certainly appear unhurried considering the timescale to produce a very nice model. I have half built models thatv'e been in progress since 2000 !
Gulp...