I think a trip to the junkyard is the best option here. Those board traces repairs hardly ever work, besides, the cost for a used cluster makes it ideal, and the customer will be able to compare it to the original one and just plug and play!!! Great one Ivan.
I was waiting in the end for you to repair the circuit board...I expected it from watching all your videos. Having the other cluster and vehicle history was nice to have. Nice diagnosis as usual Ivan!
Hayward's Automotive Agreed but it will change a bit of WiringDiagram. Ivan didn't go to do this for someone else who might get wrong understanding of WiringDiagram.
The repair was for the original one not the wrong salvage yard one. Ivan has fixed a few parts on his videos so I was anticipating bonus footage. It's better to just replace it. Hope you're doing good Muhammad.
Good thought. You can pull a diagram from a V8 one and cross reference the diagrams to see. It sure would be cool if those pins were reversed there too!
Nice Find Ivan ! If it was your own and you wanted save some money or a trip to the salvage yard, maybe and I say a big maybe you could of de-pined the connectors and try to match them up to the new cluster ? But in ether case your right about him having the old cluster or you would of been going nuts trying to find the right wiring diagram to no avail !
Hi Ivan. That burned trace is cause by bad caps and diode on the anti slosh module, which is the little plug in circuit board on the bottom right. I've repaired many of them. Only costs a few cents to do. The IC is rarely bad. Each module is calibrated to the cluster unit at factory so Ford recommends not swapping the modules to different clusters. However I've never actually seen a cluster be off because of it.
I loved the comments from Eric and Ozzstar, those guys crack me up. But your diagnostic was fun because it reinforces (at least to me) how important the owner can be, especially when it comes to history. I discovered a brand new part for a distributor long ago wired completely backwards from the manufacture. I would have never known that unless the owner told me "I just changed that part". Awesome work Ivan.
Great find glad you had the old one to compare, reminds me of when you and Eric O worked on an unknown engine swap, with the wrong wiring harness again great job.
I've been able to get printed circuits for Ford and Gm going back 20+yrs from the dealers, that's one option. There are some good guys who rebuild clusters, a little Google will weed out the hacks. Good video.
All you have to do is move the wires to the location for that instrument cluster. It’s very simple. The wires are just held in by a retainer and each wire has its own retainer. Use a small flat screwdriver like for your glasses and lift the retainer and the wire will slide out. Push the correct wire to the location slide it in and finished.
Since BBB Industries ceased publishing wiring diagrams, are there any current (as of May, 2022) free sources of vehicle electrical wiring diagrams. What are the relative costs for a DIYer to purchase access to several diagrams for his or her personal vehicles (i.e. from 1 to 5)? Thanks for sharing your victories, struggles and those diagnoses that need a little more investigation to achieve victory!
This demonstrates why you should always compare a replacement part to the old one. The different color of the two printed circuits should have been a tip-off from the beginning.
Great video ...went through this exact issue on earlier Ford focus ...turned out 2bulbs were burnt out... retro days before led😂😂😂😂 cheers from 🇨🇦 Luke
At first, I thought you were misreading something! Good thing you looked closer. Wrong cluster! Opps! Makes sence that with the different connections it would not work properly.
Or actually it could be a warning symbol for high catalytic converter temperature. I know for sure Toyota have a symbol for that on some models, the text is something like this (taken from the actual vehicle instruction manual) : "Exhaust Temperature Light - Internal temperature of the catalytic converter or exhaust system is too high, stop the vehicle and let it cool down". And I know my Volvo 855 -96 has exactly the same symbol as Toyota uses (because I disassembled my instrument cluster) - but it's not in use in those models - see the symbol to the left of the SRS light. www.exx.se/objects/jagrullar/volvo_855_exhaust.jpg
had a very similar issue with a wiper relay box from a 30 year old car. bought a replacement and had the same part number and plugs. but intermittent wiper function wouldnt work even though it was new old stock. after much scratching of heads we found tbat the board was laid out completely different. wish companies wouldnt do this. same connector but completely different part with the same part number.
cool ivan back to 2 day shave/trim with a head shaver, i had a beard for a year and did same i trim it now 2-3days as i get a rash from the darn close shaves, yeah too much info i know!..
Ivan, you are the man once again. Looked at your website the other day, love the mission statement. I was wondering if in your spare time, could you do a video on the basics of using a test light and or logic probe? I'm a little hesitant moving forward with sticking a test light tip in a wiring harness, etc. Thanks Mike.....
Go ahead and stick that testlight wherever you want! Won't harm a thing. But do keep track of what you "expect" the testlight to do, and what it actually does. That's the only way to learn!
Random off topic question Ivan. Is there a company you can recommend to test coolant to see the approximate age of it? Is it possible to guess age from a chemical analysis? A little over a year ago I had local Nissan dealership do a coolant flush. I work on cars as a DYI back yard car guy and I'm very capable of doing a coolant change my self with garden hose and such, but didn't feel like dealing with mess and possible air pockets so paid to have Nissan do it with OEM blue Nissan coolant. It took them 30+ minutes to pull my car in. Once in the garage I could see them do a courtesy checkup on the lift then moved it out of side to the other side of garage bay and boom! 5 minutes later my coolant flush is done and ready to go! I popped hood in lot and my suspicion was immediate that they didn't do anything and just charged me. There was no evidence of any hoses or clamps being touched or moved and dry as a bone everywhere. The over flow was right where it was when I brought it in. The coolant was already clean, I only had the service done because I was at 50k and it's a 2011 Altima. Preventative maintenance. I hate to be "that guy", but I'm not an idiot when it comes to cars and how long jobs take. They charged me $130 give or take with tax and said the back flushed the coolant system. I've used an coolant exchange machine at my neighbors garage he works at on my old car once and find it hard to believe they could leave it that dry and nothing looking like it was touched. What's your thoughts Ivan? Thanks man!
2011 Nissan with 50k...that coolant should be like brand new! No need to flush or replace modern coolant for the first 7-10 years of the vehicles life...they really do use long-life coolant! My wife's 2010 Nissan Rogue has 185k on it and I have topped off the coolant maybe once. Even the CVT fluid is still original and clean, and has more than half the life left on the computerized fluid life monitor. Sometimes modern cars are so maintenance-free that you feel bad just doing oil changes every 7k miles... haha
13:06 and at 13:28 Different part numbers. Despite the different colors of the circuit board would you think or suggest that the look for the original part number on a cluster or would each board have a unique number ?
The circuit Board that was installed , had burnt traces in the middle, black color, not brass looking , causing high resistance or an open circuit , and plus its the wrong one!
Glad to see I wasn't the only one to see that smoked trace! I spend so much time in the local Pick and Pull yards, it's all to easy to make this type of mistake. Sometimes even the month of manufacture can screw things up!
Is it possible to swap round the wires in the plug? But, why did the original cluster fail with burnt out tracks....hmmm. Replace cluster with correct part, or try to modify existing replacement to work...... Would be quicker (thus cheaper) to replace
Yeah, especially with no pin numbers on the wiring diagram! Next step would have been to look up a connector pinout if it was available. Maybe the replacement cluster was from a V8 model?
It's a good thing that the owner told you that the cluster was changed as that helped you zero right in on the issue. Probably a lot of folks wouldn't even have mentioned that detail :) Good video Ivan !!
probably has a near dead shorted bulb and cooked the trace/s, before fuse could blow. I suppose it could have been failed gauge coil/resistor. **being it's the fuel level power and ground traces burnt, look at the anti-slosh module board and for pump/tank/wire fiddling, don't want to "poof" the replacement gauge cluster. maybe if sender wire was/is shorted to "power", it could break the gauge/module and cook the sender on empty tank.
Ok wait! You say that a Ford Mustang instrument cluster has a separate unit that can be plugged in, and fit, but not be wired the same?? Now, I can see if you have different options on the different models, like an oil pressure gauge versus a oil warning light, still being able to fit! Just have wiring paths that correspond to the different models! But, to have a line that is ground on one version and power on another, that the plug connectors still fit, the cluster still mounts correctly, and have no other discernible method to tell them apart except the original part numbers!!!!!!! MINIMUM, the connectors should be different! That's like having an electrician wire the household power outlets differently in each house, or each room!! Good luck plugging your lamps in!!!!
Must have been for a different model/engine or something...but why the heck would they switch the wires around??? Probably to design it some parts non-interchangeability so Ford could charge double for the "premium V8 cluster". At least that is my guess.
They used the same interior layout (and physical cluster footprint) for 10 years (1994-2004), the replacement cluster was probably from a different year, which apparently had changes to the indicator layout, and due to the the "single layer" routing of electrical paths for the cluster, the connector pin-out must've needed changed. Why they didn't change the electrical connectors on the other hand is an excellent question, probably money is my guess.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Nobody has replied with this, but I am a Mustang enthusiast, and the 94/95 gauge cluster had faded white needles and 96-98 had orange needles. I knew instantly that the gauge cluster was a 94/95 from the needles, then I read the description and saw the car was a 96 and it made sense. I still watched the video, loved it!!! I havent seen anybody give an answer as to the difference.
used to work for "forecia" french company who makes all the interior panels for most of fords vehicles. i was on the mustang center console line. every piece of crap electronic component and wire, made of chinesium in china, in a slave factory, which btw, is what "forecia" is, a $12/hr sweat shop.
like 6 months ago, in saline michigan. (worked at 2 dealers past 10 years as a tech, now i just buy, repair, and sell auction cars and build and repair musical instruments.) the company used to be ford, then was bought and sold a few times in the last 5 years. its a full on sweat shop now. eric o paraphrase.... if you get oem parts from any manufacturer, the only 2 that will say made in USA is... toyota and honda.... got parts for my 2012 ford flex last week, of 6 parts only 1 was made in mexico, rest in tiawan and china... might as well bought doorman from autozone...
Someone please help me out I have a mustang 2003. I tried changing the cluster but when I put everything back to together the gas, and rpm, and the oil temp aren’t working when I turn on the car!!! What could be the problem!
I feel cheated. You knew the instrument cluster was replaced all the time but only reveal that fact when you knew what the problem was. Still you ask us to place our bets in the video description.
This was a live diag and that was my actual procedure. Once I saw the pins were off I asked the owner if the cluster was original, and he said no, it was recently replaced due to some burning smell... luckily he still had the original there!
I hate the Ford "Dummy" oil pressure gauge...... I can only hope this was modified for a 'real' oil pressure gauge setup. 2:39 Nope. Ford wouldn't even put a 'real' gauge on a sports car???
Apparently, any comments that include links are getting blocked, so I will post the part number: Stylus, VERUS®, Nylon, Black, 3-pack Item: 3-06206A01 21.99 USD
Thanks. I have three of those, including the one clipped to the back of the Verus. But I can also use the pen to write on paper, and the pens are free lol
my geo 93speedo ng .200$for part .cluster 35$ from corella junk yd..gas gauge not accurate but ok.probably bigger tank.added 50k miles thou.soon it'll join it's brother.rust bucket.
Oh, yeah, the factory wiring diagrams are really readable and informative (e.g. sometimes giving the voltage expected on a given wire/connector/component etc). I have the one for my wife's '98 Mustang I got off eBay years ago. The problem I have with it is finding the page that a component you want to play with is on. The index doesn't always show the page for the circuit for a sensor. I recently had to do a linear, page by page, search for the EVAP Purge Solenoid diagram in the book because the index just showed me the page with a picture of where in the engine bay the solenoid lived. It didn't show the page for the circuit itself (at least not anywhere I could find). It was under Engine Controls, or something like that, not under Emissions or Fuel Management. P.I.T.A.
![โรงเรียนห้ามรัก โดนจับได้ตาย...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4u02Sbr556Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Customer didn't do his junkyard homework. Researching what will work is half the fun! Nice work Ivan. Thanks!
Thank you John for the comments! The owner did do some research, but apparently not quite enough to prevent this :)
I think a trip to the junkyard is the best option here. Those board traces repairs hardly ever work, besides, the cost for a used cluster makes it ideal, and the customer will be able to compare it to the original one and just plug and play!!! Great one Ivan.
yup I told him to bring the original and match up the part numbers and physical layout so there is no more confusion.
I wish I could bring my car to you. loyalty and honesty. love your integrity. thanks for the videos.
I was waiting in the end for you to repair the circuit board...I expected it from watching all your videos. Having the other cluster and vehicle history was nice to have. Nice diagnosis as usual Ivan!
Hayward's Automotive Agreed but it will change a bit of WiringDiagram. Ivan didn't go to do this for someone else who might get wrong understanding of WiringDiagram.
The repair was for the original one not the wrong salvage yard one. Ivan has fixed a few parts on his videos so I was anticipating bonus footage. It's better to just replace it. Hope you're doing good Muhammad.
Thank you so much and yeah Bonus Footage is COOL :) if there is.
Heck if it was my own car, you know I would have cobbled something together! But in this case customer only requested the diag :)
Haha :) it's 01:30 AM in Pakistan
The junk yard will get you in trouble everytime! Nice find Ivan!
Now I wonder if the replacement was pulled from a V8 donor?
Good thought. You can pull a diagram from a V8 one and cross reference the diagrams to see. It sure would be cool if those pins were reversed there too!
Nice Find Ivan ! If it was your own and you wanted save some money or a trip to the salvage yard, maybe and I say a big maybe you could of de-pined the connectors and try to match them up to the new cluster ? But in ether case your right about him having the old cluster or you would of been going nuts trying to find the right wiring diagram to no avail !
Hi Ivan. That burned trace is cause by bad caps and diode on the anti slosh module, which is the little plug in circuit board on the bottom right. I've repaired many of them. Only costs a few cents to do. The IC is rarely bad. Each module is calibrated to the cluster unit at factory so Ford recommends not swapping the modules to different clusters. However I've never actually seen a cluster be off because of it.
Can you repair the. Opper foil? My left turn signal and the lights on the last cluster for the temp & fuel doesn't work
I loved the comments from Eric and Ozzstar, those guys crack me up. But your diagnostic was fun because it reinforces (at least to me) how important the owner can be, especially when it comes to history. I discovered a brand new part for a distributor long ago wired completely backwards from the manufacture. I would have never known that unless the owner told me "I just changed that part". Awesome work Ivan.
Absolutely. A little tidbit of info on the vehicle history can save hours of head scratching for sure!
Great find glad you had the old one to compare, reminds me of when you and Eric O worked on an unknown engine swap, with the wrong wiring harness again great job.
I've been able to get printed circuits for Ford and Gm going back 20+yrs from the dealers, that's one option. There are some good guys who rebuild clusters, a little Google will weed out the hacks. Good video.
www.unitedradio.com/
All you have to do is move the wires to the location for that instrument cluster. It’s very simple. The wires are just held in by a retainer and each wire has its own retainer. Use a small flat screwdriver like for your glasses and lift the retainer and the wire will slide out. Push the correct wire to the location slide it in and finished.
Since BBB Industries ceased publishing wiring diagrams, are there any current (as of May, 2022) free sources of vehicle electrical wiring diagrams. What are the relative costs for a DIYer to purchase access to several diagrams for his or her personal vehicles (i.e. from 1 to 5)? Thanks for sharing your victories, struggles and those diagnoses that need a little more investigation to achieve victory!
This demonstrates why you should always compare a replacement part to the old one. The different color of the two printed circuits should have been a tip-off from the beginning.
There are test strips for that ,test for acidity.
Just move the wires around in the connectors to get it to work, I did it in my ford ranger,
and move on. great video.
Great video ...went through this exact issue on earlier Ford focus ...turned out 2bulbs were burnt out... retro days before led😂😂😂😂
cheers from 🇨🇦
Luke
At first, I thought you were misreading something! Good thing you looked closer. Wrong cluster! Opps! Makes sence that with the different connections it would not work properly.
I had to watch a 19 minute advertisement without the ability to skip. F5 for the win.
Well spotted Ivan! Meticulous as always, rarely missing even the tiniest details.
BTW, that CTL CONV is most probably catalytic converter :-)
wow must be a California Emissions option...never seen a specific warning light for a converter lol
Or actually it could be a warning symbol for high catalytic converter temperature.
I know for sure Toyota have a symbol for that on some models, the text is something like this (taken from the actual vehicle instruction manual) : "Exhaust Temperature Light - Internal temperature of the catalytic converter or exhaust system is too high, stop the vehicle and let it cool down".
And I know my Volvo 855 -96 has exactly the same symbol as Toyota uses (because I disassembled my instrument cluster) - but it's not in use in those models - see the symbol to the left of the SRS light.
www.exx.se/objects/jagrullar/volvo_855_exhaust.jpg
What? no bonus footage? I wanted to see the results of the DNA test for the goo on the center of the steering wheel
Totally just got a Victoria Secret ad, refreshed the page and BOOM Got it again!! Way to go Ivan!!
+south main auto That's weird because I refreshed 3 times and keep getting the Mangroomer Do It Yourself Back Hair Shaver ads.
Eric, do they sell your favorite yoga pants there, maybe you can get Ozzstar a new pair too ! LOL !
Maybe it was just the image of the pink cluster that threw Google off LMAO
Wow sorry to hear that Glen. It is likely making an algorithm based off stored cookies and what you search on line.... nuf said...
I like the dual air fresheners. Probably there to offset the smell of the tire in the backseat....
had a very similar issue with a wiper relay box from a 30 year old car. bought a replacement and had the same part number and plugs. but intermittent wiper function wouldnt work even though it was new old stock. after much scratching of heads we found tbat the board was laid out completely different. wish companies wouldnt do this. same connector but completely different part with the same part number.
cool ivan back to 2 day shave/trim with a head shaver, i had a beard for a year and did same i trim it now 2-3days as i get a rash from the darn close shaves, yeah too much info i know!..
Pine Hollow; the name is scarry. Reminds me of Ichabod Crane and the headless horseman:(...:)
Nice find Ivan. Did the customer give you the cluster from the outset or was it an afterthought? "Oh by the way....."
Once I saw the wires didn't match, I asked a few questions...bingo!
Gives new meaning to Cluster F-ck
Ivan, you are the man once again. Looked at your website the other day, love the mission statement. I was wondering if in your spare time, could you do a video on the basics of using a test light and or logic probe? I'm a little hesitant moving forward with sticking a test light tip in a wiring harness, etc. Thanks Mike.....
Go ahead and stick that testlight wherever you want! Won't harm a thing. But do keep track of what you "expect" the testlight to do, and what it actually does. That's the only way to learn!
Mike Oneill I
ok, I'll try it, I thought you could harm the main computer one way or another.
Random off topic question Ivan. Is there a company you can recommend to test coolant to see the approximate age of it? Is it possible to guess age from a chemical analysis? A little over a year ago I had local Nissan dealership do a coolant flush. I work on cars as a DYI back yard car guy and I'm very capable of doing a coolant change my self with garden hose and such, but didn't feel like dealing with mess and possible air pockets so paid to have Nissan do it with OEM blue Nissan coolant. It took them 30+ minutes to pull my car in. Once in the garage I could see them do a courtesy checkup on the lift then moved it out of side to the other side of garage bay and boom! 5 minutes later my coolant flush is done and ready to go! I popped hood in lot and my suspicion was immediate that they didn't do anything and just charged me. There was no evidence of any hoses or clamps being touched or moved and dry as a bone everywhere. The over flow was right where it was when I brought it in. The coolant was already clean, I only had the service done because I was at 50k and it's a 2011 Altima. Preventative maintenance. I hate to be "that guy", but I'm not an idiot when it comes to cars and how long jobs take. They charged me $130 give or take with tax and said the back flushed the coolant system. I've used an coolant exchange machine at my neighbors garage he works at on my old car once and find it hard to believe they could leave it that dry and nothing looking like it was touched. What's your thoughts Ivan? Thanks man!
2011 Nissan with 50k...that coolant should be like brand new! No need to flush or replace modern coolant for the first 7-10 years of the vehicles life...they really do use long-life coolant! My wife's 2010 Nissan Rogue has 185k on it and I have topped off the coolant maybe once. Even the CVT fluid is still original and clean, and has more than half the life left on the computerized fluid life monitor. Sometimes modern cars are so maintenance-free that you feel bad just doing oil changes every 7k miles... haha
Temp gauge inop on late 90s Camaros seems to be a common issue. Has anyone found what the issue is? Great vid!
13:06 and at 13:28 Different part numbers. Despite the different colors of the circuit board would you think or suggest that the look for the original part number on a cluster or would each board have a unique number ?
Paul Lenzen I saw that the 'wrong' one started with F4(94). What was the other one?
43-01170 it appears
nice work Ivan I'm wondering could you have relocated the pins for the cluster that was in the car when it came to you great video as always
The circuit Board that was installed , had burnt traces in the middle, black color, not brass looking , causing high resistance or an open circuit , and plus its the wrong one!
Glad to see I wasn't the only one to see that smoked trace! I spend so much time in the local Pick and Pull yards, it's all to easy to make this type of mistake. Sometimes even the month of manufacture can screw things up!
Nice job on the new logo and such.
Thanks Randy, glad you like it :)
HaHa....those old 3.8s don't need a tach anyway. 4500 rpm is about it for them. Nice find, Ivan.
wysetech2000 yeah you don't need a tach for an automatic.
LOL yeah a V6 Mustang with an automatic...weaksauce.
Is it possible to swap round the wires in the plug? But, why did the original cluster fail with burnt out tracks....hmmm. Replace cluster with correct part, or try to modify existing replacement to work...... Would be quicker (thus cheaper) to replace
Great work Ivan! Good thing the owner had the old cluster as that could've been a nightmare figuring out 👌
Yeah, especially with no pin numbers on the wiring diagram! Next step would have been to look up a connector pinout if it was available. Maybe the replacement cluster was from a V8 model?
It's a good thing that the owner told you that the cluster was changed as that helped you zero right in on the issue. Probably a lot of folks wouldn't even have mentioned that detail :) Good video Ivan !!
this guy is too damn smart
hello my friend .... what program did you use to visualize the electrical diagram .....
probably has a near dead shorted bulb and cooked the trace/s, before fuse could blow. I suppose it could have been failed gauge coil/resistor.
**being it's the fuel level power and ground traces burnt, look at the anti-slosh module board and for pump/tank/wire fiddling, don't want to "poof" the replacement gauge cluster. maybe if sender wire was/is shorted to "power", it could break the gauge/module and cook the sender on empty tank.
Good eye! Given the replacement cluster fuel and temp gauges were working fine, I wasn't too concerned about that side of the cluster...
Check out that sweet cold water intake, must at least double the factory horsepower
Combine that with a Folgers Exhaust!! And ya got a Racer!!!! (aka, the fartcannon....)
What if ya got to get another cluster does that mean another ignition switch too for pats
Just did something similar to my 99 explorer but it was bulb replaced lol pretty easy job on the those fords back then
This is like an "April Fools" joke. Yes, those tracks are easily repairable (replaced) with wire.
I would definitely give that a try before going to the junkyard 10 times!
what are both of these clusters out of
Let's see
Let's see here
Ok wait! You say that a Ford Mustang instrument cluster has a separate unit that can be plugged in, and fit, but not be wired the same??
Now, I can see if you have different options on the different models, like an oil pressure gauge versus a oil warning light, still being able to fit! Just have wiring paths that correspond to the different models! But, to have a line that is ground on one version and power on another, that the plug connectors still fit, the cluster still mounts correctly, and have no other discernible method to tell them apart except the original part numbers!!!!!!! MINIMUM, the connectors should be different! That's like having an electrician wire the household power outlets differently in each house, or each room!! Good luck plugging your lamps in!!!!
Must have been for a different model/engine or something...but why the heck would they switch the wires around??? Probably to design it some parts non-interchangeability so Ford could charge double for the "premium V8 cluster". At least that is my guess.
They used the same interior layout (and physical cluster footprint) for 10 years (1994-2004), the replacement cluster was probably from a different year, which apparently had changes to the indicator layout, and due to the the "single layer" routing of electrical paths for the cluster, the connector pin-out must've needed changed. Why they didn't change the electrical connectors on the other hand is an excellent question, probably money is my guess.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Nobody has replied with this, but I am a Mustang enthusiast, and the 94/95 gauge cluster had faded white needles and 96-98 had orange needles. I knew instantly that the gauge cluster was a 94/95 from the needles, then I read the description and saw the car was a 96 and it made sense. I still watched the video, loved it!!! I havent seen anybody give an answer as to the difference.
used to work for "forecia" french company who makes all the interior panels for most of fords vehicles. i was on the mustang center console line. every piece of crap electronic component and wire, made of chinesium in china, in a slave factory, which btw, is what "forecia" is, a $12/hr sweat shop.
wow that is sad...how long ago was this? Probably has only gotten worse...
like 6 months ago, in saline michigan. (worked at 2 dealers past 10 years as a tech, now i just buy, repair, and sell auction cars and build and repair musical instruments.) the company used to be ford, then was bought and sold a few times in the last 5 years. its a full on sweat shop now. eric o paraphrase.... if you get oem parts from any manufacturer, the only 2 that will say made in USA is... toyota and honda.... got parts for my 2012 ford flex last week, of 6 parts only 1 was made in mexico, rest in tiawan and china... might as well bought doorman from autozone...
Someone please help me out I have a mustang 2003. I tried changing the cluster but when I put everything back to together the gas, and rpm, and the oil temp aren’t working when I turn on the car!!! What could be the problem!
Also the fuses are good, does that mean I fried my ecu because at one point the battery was in
Ivan what happened to the beard?? new channel name and new face for spring?
That's right lol
Cluster? I hardly know her!
uve had a few of those in my days and come to find out was simply bulbs blown
Cool..
I feel cheated. You knew the instrument cluster was replaced all the time but only reveal that fact when you knew what the problem was. Still you ask us to place our bets in the video description.
This was a live diag and that was my actual procedure. Once I saw the pins were off I asked the owner if the cluster was original, and he said no, it was recently replaced due to some burning smell... luckily he still had the original there!
Fair enough. I don't feel cheated anymore. Thanks for clarifying and educating us.
I hate the Ford "Dummy" oil pressure gauge...... I can only hope this was modified for a 'real' oil pressure gauge setup. 2:39 Nope. Ford wouldn't even put a 'real' gauge on a sports car???
Pretty much every Ford up to the 1 tons were dummy light. Only the cars like Saleens and such have real gauges.
Apparently, any comments that include links are getting blocked, so I will post the part number:
Stylus, VERUS®, Nylon, Black, 3-pack Item: 3-06206A01 21.99 USD
Thanks. I have three of those, including the one clipped to the back of the Verus. But I can also use the pen to write on paper, and the pens are free lol
Hey can you slide the pdf please?
>hot rod
>v6
pick one
My runs backwards but only when I'm at high rpm
my geo 93speedo ng .200$for part .cluster 35$ from corella junk yd..gas gauge not accurate but ok.probably bigger tank.added 50k miles thou.soon it'll join it's brother.rust bucket.
It's a Bohemian Cluster F##%!
That wiring diagram looks like bbbi photocopied the factory (paperback) wiring manual. Lazy. 🤓
Well it's pretty readable, right? Still better and easier to use than "SomeData" haha
Oh, yeah, the factory wiring diagrams are really readable and informative (e.g. sometimes giving the voltage expected on a given wire/connector/component etc). I have the one for my wife's '98 Mustang I got off eBay years ago. The problem I have with it is finding the page that a component you want to play with is on. The index doesn't always show the page for the circuit for a sensor. I recently had to do a linear, page by page, search for the EVAP Purge Solenoid diagram in the book because the index just showed me the page with a picture of where in the engine bay the solenoid lived. It didn't show the page for the circuit itself (at least not anywhere I could find). It was under Engine Controls, or something like that, not under Emissions or Fuel Management. P.I.T.A.
Hmm '98 Mustang purge solenoid...BBB Industries, Engine, Fuel Controls...there it is on Page 1! That took all of about 20 seconds lol
Yeah, searching a database with a computer is always going to be faster then searching a book with pages made of paper. :-)
X/O
I blame Trump.
Might as well blame George W.... LOL.