Took my van to the shop and they told me my van was junk yard bound and engine was dead. I searched and found this video and replaced the sensor. Runs perfectly thanks for much!!!! Life saver. Subscribed and left a like. ✌🏼✌🏼✌🏼
Just about finished replacing the waterpump on my 2001 windstar for the same reason. I also thought the pump was stalling the engine at stoplights. I thought for sure it was the pump as the stethoscope made it sound like the pump. Oh well at least I won't have to fight with the coolant tube again when replacing the cam position sensor. Yeah the old pump didn't seem too bad so that explains a lot. I wasn't even looking for this issue, your video just showed up in my recommended list and I'm so glad it did. Thanks for posting this, I've watched a number of your vids and they are all excellent. Now I'm a subscriber. Thanks Pine Hollow!
You were Right! My 2005 Freestar started That same screeching sound n stalling.Lots of folks thot it was one of my pulleys....but my Brilliant mechanic knew what it was by experience. He diagnosed n fixed her right up but with your video I Wonder....cud me n a girlfriend have fixed it?! Rub a lamp! Ill leave it for the professionals.Thank you Bruce for keeping us on the road and thank you for this informative video!
Good stuff Ivan! I can't tell you how many times i've seen cars come in with brand new belts, idlers and a tensioner, all for a bad cam sensor/syncro. Well done! ~Mike
Howdy comrade. I had a co-worker call a water pump on a ranger and it turned out to be the cam phaser. Boy he was red faced. Fortunately the boss is understanding.he had me replace it and it was good to go..but to be honest after the pump was replaced,the squeak sure did sound like it was coming from the front of the engine ,not were the phaser lives. Love the vids.your not quick to call a part unless you cover all avenues. Good job Ivan.
Ha! That's why I started the engine with the belt off...and was REALLY surprised to hear the same squealing!! We had the water pump sitting there on the bench ready for the install ;)
Great job at proper diagnosis and repair verification. If there were more like us in this field, rather than folks that throw parts at vehicles in hopes of fixing a problem, this industry wouldn't have the negative stigma it's had over the decades. I remember the first time I ran into the same squeal as this van. A mustang with a 3.8L. I pulled the belt off, spun the pulleys and found no faulty bearings. For some reason I needed to back the car up before replacing the belt and I still heard the squeak without the belt installed. I scratched my head and thought "what the heck!". I got my stethoscope out and about blew my ear drums out when touching the cam sensor housing. I don't see too many of these go bad anymore. They've probably all been replaced by now. I watched this video to get a peek at the picoscope in action with a touch screen laptop. I've used a Verus and Modis for years, but my Modis is only a two channel and the Verus isn't my favorite lab scope. I refuse to pay the price for the new Zeus. Even with a trade in it costs upwards of ten grand. (Snap on has me upset these days). I've heard nothing but good things about the picoscope, so my mind is made up. A new Picoscope for a Christmas gift to myself!
the belt tensioner on that engine has a tab that holds it compressed, pull up on belt and push it in with long straight bar, and let the belt go. makes belt changes very easy.
I have heard that many people just take the cover off of the cam synchronizer and pour a little bit of motor oil down in there to lubricate the bearing. Supposedly doing that will eliminate this problem indefinitely.
Ford has a special tool that holds the shaft vane in the proper location relative to the housing when installing the synchronizer assembly. The engine is placed with No. 1 cylinder at top dead center of the compression stroke.
THANK YOU for this! I was having the exact same issue with my wife's van. I thought it was the water pump too until i watched your video. Using he stethoscope I could hear the squealing through the water pump but that camshaft gear assembly was screaming! At least I know what's got to be done now.
Thanks, Rob. The waveform was definitely necessary for 100% confirmation of failure. However, can you explain the waveform pattern, even though we did not see any physical contact of the shutter to the magnet?
lucky you got no starts, seen many that kept running without synch or oil pump. which the idiot lights were broken on, so you can guess what occurred ;)
i have a 2006 mercury monterey , 87k miles on it. out of nowhere beginning to stall. battery is fine , engine stalls , steering gets tight and breaks freeze up a bit. any help would be appreciated ?
As a general routine, check fuel pressure, codes, labscope etc. to uncover faults in customers cars. After repairs, recheck the readings to make sure reoccurring faults don't show up.
I had an alternator go bad and would lock up the motor. It was so bad it wouldnt start until the belt was removed. So yes,a bad bearing will case an engine to lug and stall. The engine is fine,just needs a bit of love!
I changed a water pump in a 99 explorer because of this chirping. Put a stethoscope on the pump and swore that was the problem. LOL! I took the sensor cap off and poured oil on top of the "distributor" and the chirping went away. Five years later and it is still good. I think I read somewhere that you're supposed to soak that part in oil before installing?
I removed the cap and dribbled thick lucas oil down mine, prob at least a pint. Took 30 min to an hour for all of it to disappear. Put the cap back on and it started and ran like crap for about 10 minutes, then started to purr. Drove it all day without a miss or a squeal. Eff you Ford motor company!
The Freestar would be called an Advanced Mechanic auto.. To replace the Water Pump, you have to unbolt the engine subframe to lower the engine a bit.. I got fooled by this Distributor replacement cam sensor.. Replaced the Tensioner, gave up on the Water Pump since it felt fine, gave up on the Cam Sensor thing. What I did was drill a hole (5/32") between the two screws that hold the sensor to the Distributor Base thing, and inject 20W50 motor oil (maybe 30 drops?) into the hole. I used a Solder flux bottle with a Needle used to dispence flux. Squeezed a fair amount into the top hole I drilled. Wow.. worked just perfect!! No need to remove anything.. the sensor itself is impervious to oil. It works it's way down into the bushing. We'll see how long it lasts, but I susect several months. No hassle.. 10 minutes.. finito!! I forgot the early 2000's Fords were pretty lame quality wise.. Access is very limited. A 4.2 is probably the biggest engine ever in a Minivan, although the Lincoln Continental was FWD with a 4.6 V8! Drill a hole, add oil, enjoy the rest of your day!
Exact same problem I am having it caused my van to glitch out and stall 3 or 4 times and placed in neutral restarted with no problem...pain in the ass.......wish I knew where you guys are located because I would def go to you.......
The no room to work situation is what happens when they put an engine originally designed for a rear wheel drive vehicle in a front wheel drive. The 4.2L is a stroked 3.8L, originally built for the F150/E150. I remember the cam sensor being a pretty easy swap on my 4.2L F150. The sensor on it somehow managed to gut itself, I'm still trying to figure that one out.
They had a similar idea to that in the 1960' 70's, with the ford V4 and V 6 engines in England, but it drove the distributor and a not a cam sensor, but you has to align the hexagon on the bottom to the oil pump and the spiral gear and it all had to line up to drop in and you had to get ignition timing right, was right pain...Fred in UK.
Ford has a spec for that when correlating with the crank signal. I had to punch the roll pin out and press the gear off the old shaft and use it to align the oil pump when the synchronizer wouldn’t drop all the way
many of the factory ones whizz the gear off and keep running without oil pressure, so do the owners... i put aftermarket cheapo's in before, but the engine was locked up and broke it free with breaker bar and pipe, they ran it from rattling slightly into a loud hammering knock for a month short trips..
Hello Ivan it is interesting will be spark without cam sensor or not is that sensor first piston postition sensor I woant toknow about it more can you send me info about that sensor
Harmonic balancers make a squeak like this and cause the engine to stall out too on the 4.2L. I thought I had the same problem but it was my harmonic balancer fell back on a indicator on the Timing cover.
i have a 2006 mercury monterey , 87k miles on it. out of nowhere beginning to stall. battery is fine , engine stalls , steering gets tight and breaks freeze up a bit. any help would be appreciated ?
hello ivan,canu please, i have a 94 jeep cherokee 4.0 first start is always good but after running it for 10 tob15 mins it stalls when i release fuel pedal and only start with fuel pedal all the way down.
I know it runs fine. It would have been nice to c cam crank waveform correlation waveform. U have 4 channels. They will run fine even if they r off. I wonder, is it like the Chevy that allows up to 5 or 6 degrees before it sets a code. Nice vid as usual.
You bought a Mercury Mistake? You'd have to pay me to take it off your hands. :) I love my Fords but working on some of them is a PIA. It was ridiculous that I had to take the intake manifold off my son's 2.3L Escape just to change the PCV valve. I was cussing Ford Engineer's out the whole time. I even called my brother-in-law to cuss him out because he's an engineer at Ford even though he works on the fuel cell cars.
Zib187 , had to remove intake plenum to swap alternator on Venture van. Also not made to work on. Build em fast, some one else’s problem once they leave factory. Even if it’s warranty, they cut hours so the tech loses!
I've done this job before on my 2005 Monterey. I can't figure out how he got that synchronizer out without removing the cowl. Now I have to do this again on my 2007 Freestar. Lots of beer!!!!
i have a 2006 mercury monterey , 87k miles on it. out of nowhere beginning to stall. battery is fine , engine stalls , steering gets tight and breaks freeze up a bit. any help would be appreciated ?
@@jDot2414 that sounds like the same issue I had. Its fucking scary! My issue went away for the most part after the car warmed up. I replaced my syncro, but i did it wrong and left the engine out of time, so i just took it to a junk yard :(
coming next, fix coolant leak on 2004 freestar, they love to leak at that line you pulled. ;) oh, when you forgot the scope ground, it made me think "dope with a scope" :))
I had a coolant tube for my Windstar leak and the new tube from Oriellys leaked because the tube was not welded properly and the open joint was just painted over and shipped. You got to like Chinese made for America parts.
Sounded like a chirping bearing for sure. What is ford doing? Reverting back to the old 60s engines that had the shaft from the distributor drive the oil pump? I call that a step backward for sure. Nice job Ivan
Wow, that job actually looks like it is easier on a 3 liter Ranger with the CPS and synchro crammed under the cowl and against the firewall. No moving of coolant lines, just some yoga poses to pull and stab it.
2552Tyler. Idk where you are but being a 2 hour job has you at $220-250 in labor alone! And the part was $205. I got out the door,all fixed n Quiet again for $479.00......;( But hey she runs like a champ again! God bless you!
I think I want to set an appointment with you. My ridgeline needs its front end bushings replaced. I think it would be cool to visit and the trip would be fun. I was going to let the dealer do it but that's not as fun as a. Road trip. I live in Ocean City.( Eastern Shore ) so I guess its a 3 or 4 hour drive. Thanks for another great video.
Let's face it Ivan, it's not just Ford but every damn vehicle manufacturer does their best to bury the most parts most prone to failure in between, under, inside, behind any number of components that make them 100X more difficult to access than they actually need to be and not to mention all the vehicle specific tools that are needed in many cases! It's all about "after care" (draining your wallet) after you buy their ball of wires and plastic!
Nice one Ivan. As we know from our buddy Paul, "always check your equipment". You could have edited that part out but it's good to see (and learn from) when mistakes are included. I sure appreciate your videos. Are you going to NY this month?
i knew the issue just by seeing the video tilte,i've seen a similar issue on a 2002 Windstar with a 3.8 engine it was the camshaft sensor syncronizer, the engine was running fine,no squeal, than it started squealing and then stall
Alot easier to change on 3.0 U motors then 3.8/4.2s...And I agree. mark it and drop it in like you would any distributor. I've never used Ford's process...
i have a 2004 freestar and it has been having issues. i keep having to jump start the van. auto zone says the battery and alternator are fine. i did noticed the clock radio didn't go off today when i locked it today. what could be my problem? my battery is about 2 years old
Replace battery positive cable assembly. I had to do it on both of my freestars few years ago. Amazon and fleebay have those. Make sure buy whole assembly. It is worth it
Nice to see the pico out. The generator code is probably due to belt being off. Thats actually really common on the fords not sure if you have seen it before but use to happen to the 3.0 v6. Great work Ivan. By the way how do you like using a touch screen with the pico? Thought about upgrading my laptop
Since it was obvious that it wasn't rubbing against the cap is it possible that the harmonics of that terrible squeak were being picked up causing the noise in the signal?
That squeak came from vibration coming from some part slowing down and then speeding up due physical contact. Bearing / wear issue? That was represented in the capture perfectly! Great work Ivan. The cheap fix shop like my home garage would have added one shim to axle to compensate wear and push the axle down for 0,5-1 mm. $0,20 fix lasting 100k miles or more. (Not for customer car perhaps, or why not..)
Took my van to the shop and they told me my van was junk yard bound and engine was dead. I searched and found this video and replaced the sensor. Runs perfectly thanks for much!!!! Life saver. Subscribed and left a like. ✌🏼✌🏼✌🏼
MrJonesDroneFootage
Did you replace just the senser or the synchronizer to? Have exact same problem as on video thanks
James Lamon I replaced both. They come together.
I used to see this all the time on the Windstar 3.8L models acting the same exact way.
Oh yeah the Windstars from the 90s...jelly suspension but they did have some get up and go like a proper American minivan ;)
Love it when people take their time and do the job right. Nice job.
Good to watch you diagnose a problem - I learnt a lot.
You're very clever.
Just about finished replacing the waterpump on my 2001 windstar for the same reason. I also thought the pump was stalling the engine at stoplights. I thought for sure it was the pump as the stethoscope made it sound like the pump. Oh well at least I won't have to fight with the coolant tube again when replacing the cam position sensor. Yeah the old pump didn't seem too bad so that explains a lot. I wasn't even looking for this issue, your video just showed up in my recommended list and I'm so glad it did. Thanks for posting this, I've watched a number of your vids and they are all excellent. Now I'm a subscriber. Thanks Pine Hollow!
Nice work Ivan.
You were Right! My 2005 Freestar started That same screeching sound n stalling.Lots of folks thot it was one of my pulleys....but my Brilliant mechanic knew what it was by experience. He diagnosed n fixed her right up but with your video I Wonder....cud me n a girlfriend have fixed it?! Rub a lamp! Ill leave it for the professionals.Thank you Bruce for keeping us on the road and thank you for this informative video!
Loved the Scotty Kilmer technique. Kool vid Ivan.
Good stuff Ivan! I can't tell you how many times i've seen cars come in with brand new belts, idlers and a tensioner, all for a bad cam sensor/syncro. Well done! ~Mike
Hey Mike! The noise definitely tricked us at first, but we still avoided the parts cannon ;)
I've been having the same issue with my 2004 ford free star van! Ty for this video I finally found the source of my problem!
Howdy comrade. I had a co-worker call a water pump on a ranger and it turned out to be the cam phaser. Boy he was red faced. Fortunately the boss is understanding.he had me replace it and it was good to go..but to be honest after the pump was replaced,the squeak sure did sound like it was coming from the front of the engine ,not were the phaser lives. Love the vids.your not quick to call a part unless you cover all avenues. Good job Ivan.
Ha! That's why I started the engine with the belt off...and was REALLY surprised to hear the same squealing!! We had the water pump sitting there on the bench ready for the install ;)
Eric O says: "It almost bit ya!"
Javier Rocha Yep that's a typical auto mechanic for you. Throw parts at it, see what sticks.
Nice work Ivan!! I like how you put that belt on!! Strong like bull !!!!!!!!
THANKS !!! I was fixing to pull the timing cover off... looking for the noise
Great job at proper diagnosis and repair verification. If there were more like us in this field, rather than folks that throw parts at vehicles in hopes of fixing a problem, this industry wouldn't have the negative stigma it's had over the decades. I remember the first time I ran into the same squeal as this van. A mustang with a 3.8L. I pulled the belt off, spun the pulleys and found no faulty bearings. For some reason I needed to back the car up before replacing the belt and I still heard the squeak without the belt installed. I scratched my head and thought "what the heck!". I got my stethoscope out and about blew my ear drums out when touching the cam sensor housing. I don't see too many of these go bad anymore. They've probably all been replaced by now.
I watched this video to get a peek at the picoscope in action with a touch screen laptop. I've used a Verus and Modis for years, but my Modis is only a two channel and the Verus isn't my favorite lab scope. I refuse to pay the price for the new Zeus. Even with a trade in it costs upwards of ten grand. (Snap on has me upset these days). I've heard nothing but good things about the picoscope, so my mind is made up. A new Picoscope for a Christmas gift to myself!
Love your videos brutha! Every single one. You're amazing at this. Thank you.
It was a pleasure to meet you at automekanica Chicago. Great videos like usual
Thank you, Oscar! Automechanika was a blast!
Those synchronizers have been a problem in every engine that Ford has installed them in but usually last 100.000 before they mess up Nice job, Ivan.
@Josh Smith LoL, so i found out the hard way!
Nice one buddy. That manly belt install was the icing on the cake - love it. LOL
the belt tensioner on that engine has a tab that holds it compressed, pull up on belt and push it in with long straight bar, and let the belt go.
makes belt changes very easy.
"Loud Squeal, Engine Stalls" - This can also happen if you run into a very large pig.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
sound like my x
I have heard that many people just take the cover off of the cam synchronizer and pour a little bit of motor oil down in there to lubricate the bearing. Supposedly doing that will eliminate this problem indefinitely.
Ford has a special tool that holds the shaft vane in the proper location relative to the housing when installing the synchronizer assembly. The engine is placed with No. 1 cylinder at top dead center of the compression stroke.
Yup the new assembly came with that special tool. I promptly threw it in the garbage can xD
Sweet find. I had debated getting an oscilloscope, then said no, but after watching this, I think I'll get one.
once again Ivan ... Well done.
That belt tug... you need to watch a few more Scotty Killmore youtube vids bud, you gotta grunt LOUDER!!! REV UP YOUR ENGINES!!!
Great vid Ivan!
THANK YOU for this! I was having the exact same issue with my wife's van. I thought it was the water pump too until i watched your video. Using he stethoscope I could hear the squealing through the water pump but that camshaft gear assembly was screaming! At least I know what's got to be done now.
Cracking the whip already. Hope you got some sleep after the trip Ivan.
Good fix and happy customer.
Nice job Ivan. I Like the scope capture as the noise occurred.
Thanks, Rob. The waveform was definitely necessary for 100% confirmation of failure. However, can you explain the waveform pattern, even though we did not see any physical contact of the shutter to the magnet?
Absolutely 100% confirmation. As for the waveform, I would blame the vibrations in the bush 😉
Have done a TON of these on the Ford Taurus 3.0 U motors. Same noise or we get no starts from them.
lucky you got no starts, seen many that kept running without synch or oil pump. which the idiot lights were broken on, so you can guess what occurred ;)
Was gonna post this as well. DA2089 synchronizer lol
I had a 2006 freestar 4.2 bought at 80,000 miles and drove it into the ground got 225,000 till the trans pump shaft went. Thanks for the videos.
i have a 2006 mercury monterey , 87k miles on it. out of nowhere beginning to stall. battery is fine , engine stalls , steering gets tight and breaks freeze up a bit. any help would be appreciated ?
Nice fix Ivan. Thanks!
Love your videos Ivan. Always interesting. You are one of my favorite TH-camrs :-)
As a general routine, check fuel pressure, codes, labscope etc. to uncover faults in customers cars. After repairs, recheck the readings to make sure reoccurring faults don't show up.
I had an alternator go bad and would lock up the motor. It was so bad it wouldnt start until the belt was removed. So yes,a bad bearing will case an engine to lug and stall. The engine is fine,just needs a bit of love!
I changed a water pump in a 99 explorer because of this chirping. Put a stethoscope on the pump and swore that was the problem. LOL! I took the sensor cap off and poured oil on top of the "distributor" and the chirping went away. Five years later and it is still good. I think I read somewhere that you're supposed to soak that part in oil before installing?
why would they starve for lubrication? are they lubed from oil pressure?
Yep! Same here. Like 4-5 years later, the chirping/stalling never came back.
nice diagnosis!!!! That did sound a lot like a bearing going bad
wow!! i would have thought bearing for sure.
Thank you for the helpful video! I’m having the exact issue with mine right now.
Is it possible to do this job while shirtless and get good results? Ivan I noticed you had your t- shirt on this time?? haha
It was early in the morning lol
Ozzstar wait he's shirtless in a video? ...which one?
I removed the cap and dribbled thick lucas oil down mine, prob at least a pint. Took 30 min to an hour for all of it to disappear. Put the cap back on and it started and ran like crap for about 10 minutes, then started to purr. Drove it all day without a miss or a squeal. Eff you Ford motor company!
lol
The Freestar would be called an Advanced Mechanic auto.. To replace the Water Pump, you have to unbolt the engine subframe to lower the engine a bit.. I got fooled by this Distributor replacement cam sensor.. Replaced the Tensioner, gave up on the Water Pump since it felt fine, gave up on the Cam Sensor thing. What I did was drill a hole (5/32") between the two screws that hold the sensor to the Distributor Base thing, and inject 20W50 motor oil (maybe 30 drops?) into the hole. I used a Solder flux bottle with a Needle used to dispence flux. Squeezed a fair amount into the top hole I drilled. Wow.. worked just perfect!! No need to remove anything.. the sensor itself is impervious to oil. It works it's way down into the bushing. We'll see how long it lasts, but I susect several months. No hassle.. 10 minutes.. finito!! I forgot the early 2000's Fords were pretty lame quality wise.. Access is very limited. A 4.2 is probably the biggest engine ever in a Minivan, although the Lincoln Continental was FWD with a 4.6 V8! Drill a hole, add oil, enjoy the rest of your day!
Exact same problem I am having it caused my van to glitch out and stall 3 or 4 times and placed in neutral restarted with no problem...pain in the ass.......wish I knew where you guys are located because I would def go to you.......
Flip Ivan that was like Nicolas Cage with the bomb in The Rock when you took that out!
Let me guess cam syncro
You didn't happen to make a video on taking the power steering pump off as well, did you?
Ivan - doing his part for international relations!
Nice job Ivan. P.S. Happy Haircut!
The no room to work situation is what happens when they put an engine originally designed for a rear wheel drive vehicle in a front wheel drive. The 4.2L is a stroked 3.8L, originally built for the F150/E150. I remember the cam sensor being a pretty easy swap on my 4.2L F150. The sensor on it somehow managed to gut itself, I'm still trying to figure that one out.
They had a similar idea to that in the 1960' 70's, with the ford V4 and V 6 engines in England, but it drove the distributor and a not a cam sensor, but you has to align the hexagon on the bottom to the oil pump and the spiral gear and it all had to line up to drop in and you had to get ignition timing right, was right pain...Fred in UK.
for sure...all the stars have to align :)
Belt install and life pro-tips all in one!
Ford has a spec for that when correlating with the crank signal. I had to punch the roll pin out and press the gear off the old shaft and use it to align the oil pump when the synchronizer wouldn’t drop all the way
The aftermarket cam synchros like to take out the oil pump. Fun times back in the day. Surprised to see a vehicle with cam synchro still on the road.
It's a 2004...not that old!
Yikes...that was the only thing available at the moment. Should I tell him to swap in a Motorcraft?
many of the factory ones whizz the gear off and keep running without oil pressure, so do the owners...
i put aftermarket cheapo's in before, but the engine was locked up and broke it free with breaker bar and pipe, they ran it from rattling slightly into a loud hammering knock for a month short trips..
Cam synchronizer shaft. See them all the time. Gets the shaft and a sensor.
Hello Ivan it is interesting will be spark without cam sensor or not is that sensor first piston postition sensor I woant toknow about it more can you send me info about that sensor
nice work
5.0 Windsor uses the same system. Oil pump drive is the same as the points & distributor days.
Harmonic balancers make a squeak like this and cause the engine to stall out too on the 4.2L. I thought I had the same problem but it was my harmonic balancer fell back on a indicator on the Timing cover.
Ivan, give her the beans to get that coolant line off.
🐈 in belt?
i have a 2006 mercury monterey , 87k miles on it. out of nowhere beginning to stall. battery is fine , engine stalls , steering gets tight and breaks freeze up a bit. any help would be appreciated ?
Was wondering do i have to drain all the anti freeze out of it?
The Ford Free Fall?
Nice catch! What was the root cause? How do we prevent it from happening?
My 2007 4.2 L Freestar makes one squeak sound when the defrost is engaged but is not continuous any ideas?
Moose and Squirrel, you were a little fast out the gate to lay blame at the feet of the Chinese. having said that, good job kind of a funky design
How did you get the power steering pump off?
hello ivan,canu please, i have a 94 jeep cherokee 4.0 first start is always good but after running it for 10 tob15 mins it stalls when i release fuel pedal and only start with fuel pedal all the way down.
That's a super weird set up. I haven't run into any of that, but now I'll know what all this bullshit is beforehand! Thanks a lot, brother!
Sure thing, Bobby! I have seen the Fords squeak before, but not like this one!
I know it runs fine. It would have been nice to c cam crank waveform correlation waveform. U have 4 channels. They will run fine even if they r off. I wonder, is it like the Chevy that allows up to 5 or 6 degrees before it sets a code. Nice vid as usual.
You bought a Mercury Mistake? You'd have to pay me to take it off your hands. :)
I love my Fords but working on some of them is a PIA. It was ridiculous that I had to take the intake manifold off my son's 2.3L Escape just to change the PCV valve. I was cussing Ford Engineer's out the whole time. I even called my brother-in-law to cuss him out because he's an engineer at Ford even though he works on the fuel cell cars.
Zib187 , had to remove intake plenum to swap alternator on Venture van. Also not made to work on. Build em fast, some one else’s problem once they leave factory. Even if it’s warranty, they cut hours so the tech loses!
Thank You
Will this cause rough idle an misfiring too
Did you remove the cowl from the top of the engine bay before you started?
I've done this job before on my 2005 Monterey. I can't figure out how he got that synchronizer out without removing the cowl. Now I have to do this again on my 2007 Freestar. Lots of beer!!!!
Oh god, this is my freaking problem. I thought "water pump? Tensioner? Idler?"
Crap
i have a 2006 mercury monterey , 87k miles on it. out of nowhere beginning to stall. battery is fine , engine stalls , steering gets tight and breaks freeze up a bit. any help would be appreciated ?
@@jDot2414 that sounds like the same issue I had. Its fucking scary!
My issue went away for the most part after the car warmed up.
I replaced my syncro, but i did it wrong and left the engine out of time, so i just took it to a junk yard :(
@@westypoprocks772 it is scary , sorry to hear that !! Hopefully someone can figure it out smh 🤦♂️ until then I’ll be riding slow slow lol
Nice.!
is the owner of the car missing a Hamster?
Great job! How many miles this Freestar had?
the bushing no bush anymore
coming next, fix coolant leak on 2004 freestar, they love to leak at that line you pulled. ;)
oh, when you forgot the scope ground, it made me think "dope with a scope" :))
I had a coolant tube for my Windstar leak and the new tube from Oriellys leaked because the tube was not welded properly and the open joint was just painted over and shipped. You got to like Chinese made for America parts.
Sounded like a chirping bearing for sure. What is ford doing? Reverting back to the old 60s engines that had the shaft from the distributor drive the oil pump? I call that a step backward for sure. Nice job Ivan
Wow, that job actually looks like it is easier on a 3 liter Ranger with the CPS and synchro crammed under the cowl and against the firewall. No moving of coolant lines, just some yoga poses to pull and stab it.
1. why not trouble code generated?
2 Poorly make aftermarket replacement part, lacking the retaining groove for the oil pump drive shaft.
In memory of the headphone users we lost today. R.I.P.
John Cavanagh thank you you may have just saved my life. ...ear buds over here.
Where you located? Any idea what shop would do this for mine and how much they would charge?
2552Tyler. Idk where you are but being a 2 hour job has you at $220-250 in labor alone! And the part was $205. I got out the door,all fixed n Quiet again for $479.00......;( But hey she runs like a champ again! God bless you!
I haven't seen that one before. Very cool. Always check the grounds so you don't upset China haha
I think I want to set an appointment with you. My ridgeline needs its front end bushings replaced. I think it would be cool to visit and the trip would be fun. I was going to let the dealer do it but that's not as fun as a. Road trip. I live in Ocean City.( Eastern Shore ) so I guess its a 3 or 4 hour drive. Thanks for another great video.
Which bushings exactly?
ohh, he wants Ivan to do hard labor..
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Control arm bushings.
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics The dealer called them ( Compliance bushings ). Does this mean anything to you?
Never heard that term before. Are they in the front or the back? What do they look like?
What model pc are you using? Runs smooth.
Let's face it Ivan, it's not just Ford but every damn vehicle manufacturer does their best to bury the most parts most prone to failure in between, under, inside, behind any number of components that make them 100X more difficult to access than they actually need to be and not to mention all the vehicle specific tools that are needed in many cases! It's all about "after care" (draining your wallet) after you buy their ball of wires and plastic!
Nice one Ivan. As we know from our buddy Paul, "always check your equipment". You could have edited that part out but it's good to see (and learn from) when mistakes are included. I sure appreciate your videos. Are you going to NY this month?
Helped me a bunch. Liked and subd !!
Is the 4.2 better than the 4.0?
i knew the issue just by seeing the video tilte,i've seen a similar issue on a 2002 Windstar with a 3.8 engine it was the camshaft sensor syncronizer, the engine was running fine,no squeal, than it started squealing and then stall
Alot easier to change on 3.0 U motors then 3.8/4.2s...And I agree. mark it and drop it in like you would any distributor. I've never used Ford's process...
i have a 2004 freestar and it has been having issues. i keep having to jump start the van. auto zone says the battery and alternator are fine. i did noticed the clock radio didn't go off today when i locked it today. what could be my problem? my battery is about 2 years old
Replace battery positive cable assembly. I had to do it on both of my freestars few years ago. Amazon and fleebay have those. Make sure buy whole assembly. It is worth it
Headphone warning. That flippin smarts.
Nice to see the pico out. The generator code is probably due to belt being off. Thats actually really common on the fords not sure if you have seen it before but use to happen to the 3.0 v6. Great work Ivan. By the way how do you like using a touch screen with the pico? Thought about upgrading my laptop
Pico + Touchscreen = scope heaven
Since it was obvious that it wasn't rubbing against the cap is it possible that the harmonics of that terrible squeak were being picked up causing the noise in the signal?
I think you might be right. Isn't that crazy?? Scopes are awesome :)
That squeak came from vibration coming from some part slowing down and then speeding up due physical contact. Bearing / wear issue? That was represented in the capture perfectly! Great work Ivan. The cheap fix shop like my home garage would have added one shim to axle to compensate wear and push the axle down for 0,5-1 mm. $0,20 fix lasting 100k miles or more. (Not for customer car perhaps, or why not..)
squeak. that would drive me nuts.