Attach ANYTHING to your Creality Ender 3 V3 KE or SE Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มี.ค. 2024
- If you want to upgrade your printer you'll want to add these!
Help support this channel! / needitmakeit
This is the 4th video now on this printer and there will be many more, but that's only if we can make this modification to the printer. This printer and the SE aren't easy to upgrade and modify, they look good, but we need some attachment points. This video is all about how to add them.
I will be making a follow up video for the optional brackets to provide support to the Z axis posts so make sure to subscribe to see that video pop up.
M3 x 10mm Brass Heat Set Inserts
Amazon US - amzn.to/4ca5C3Y (Supports the channel)
Amazon Canada - amzn.to/3ICeIZZ (Supports the channel)
US Amazon Link for Linear Rails: (This link supports the channel)
amzn.to/4a5YP9w - You'll need 2 'C' Carriages per rail (4 carriages total)
Linear rail carriages can be purchased separately if you can't find the entire kit - Model # MGN12C-350mm
Aliexpress Link for Linear Rails: (This link supports the channel) - They don't have stock of the 350, you can buy 400 and cut it to size, hopefully stock comes back soon!
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDt... - You'll need 2 'C' Carriages per rail (4 carriages total)
Linear rail carriages can be purchased separately if you can't find the entire kit - Model # MGN12C-350mm
Printed Parts:
Reinforcement Blocks - makerworld.com/en/models/373923
Linear Rails - makerworld.com/en/models/2392...
Another way to support this channel indirectly is through my affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support!
NEW MIC (I bought this)
amzn.to/3vcMKAr - Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid)
amzn.to/3NBFvZe - Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy)
BAMBU PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghz
CREALITY PRINTERS
shrsl.com/4aghy
CREALITY HYPER PLA
shrsl.com/4aghn
#crealityEnder3
#creality
#Ender3 - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This is taking this printer to a much higher level. This gives us the possibility to alleviate the shortcomings that this very cheap printer has. Huge thank's for the effort and for making it publicly available
That's great, it certainly opens up a lot more possibilities with the printer, I'll have a few more options coming out which take advantage of some of the holes. I couldn't think of any better options which would be strong enough.
I've been following your channel and in this episode, it's great to see someone like myself furthering the design of their 3D printer by taking it to a whole new level...
What I mean by this, is that you are improving the original design to make the printer stronger and more rigid, and adding extra parts to improve its performance too.
I can only guess you are going to add diagonal posts to hold the Z-Axis posts and reduce vibration on the Z-Axis in your next video...
In hindsight, you could have done this too to the Y-Axis for mounting the linear rails, but at the end of the day, you already found a different solution to this.
But this is what has caught my attention. That is as I have said, you have made a printer better by thinking outside of the box and it looks like you'll be loving the performance of this printer even more by the time you've finished upgrading it...!
So well done! It's good to see, rather than people just talking about standard printers straight out of the box. Looking forward to seing the next step on this...
Great solution! I’m new to 3d printing but I have plenty of DIY experience, and you’ve done all the hard work to make this a simple project for the rest of us. I will certainly be tackling this after I build an enclosure and get dialed in for ABS.
Thanks! I hope it helps some people out. Getting those blocks to fit well in the webbing, wasn't so easy that's for sure. I'll have about 3 more videos coming for this printer... at least, there is so much potential and you guys have a lot of ideas as well. We need to tackle the extruder setup as well, but that's a bit of a bigger project and I wanted to work my way up to it. Which enclosure will you be using?
@@NeedItMakeItI haven't really done my homework on an enclosure quite yet. I plan to build one myself unless I come across a compelling commercial product. The "tent" options are definitely affordable, I'm just not sure about the quality.
@@Leeks88 I built one from MDF with a plexi cover ages ago, and it worked really well, though it was pretty ugly. Something collapsible would be nice unless you have the room.
Thanks for the advice, looking forward to the rest of the series!
@@Leeks88 Sounds good, more to come very soon!
La KE a un potentiel énorme mais elle souffre de défauts en raison de son prix de base. Vos vidéos de moding sont vraiment supers, j 'ai déjà imprimé et commandé pour les rails. Merci pour votre excellent travail
Very neat solution. I can see me spending a lot of time in the garage with the linear rail and mounting point mods I now need to do 😂
Dude! Another great mod video. Hitting them out of the park. Completely agree. A but of modular design would be awesome 👌 keen to see what else you've got lined up.
Thanks, I'm trying to address the problems as close to the source as I can. It would be so nice to print an entire base , but I don't have a printer larger enough... at least not yet! I'm just finishing up the next mod for this printer, I think I should have it ready to go for next weekend. Simple, 3D printable and addresses one of the other main complaints with this printer and the SE.
Really cool mod method! Very versatile.
I haven't seen your videos before, but after watching this, I am a fan.
Just a thought though, maybe you should have put the heat inserts in from the bottom instead of the top. If they were 8mm long, you could have a couple of mm of plastic as well as the insert holding them in. All you would see from the top is some 4mm holes. Much stronger pulling force needed to pull them out.
one day after I mod my KE with diagonal bars, your video goes up and you do it so much cleaner! I might do the rest of the holes though. And I ordered linear rails so I can do your mod!
First of all, this is what I was looking for. I really appreciate your effort and all the stuff you've made. I will definetly do the same upgrade.
I have two questions
1. Would it be possible to get your files for the gantry stabelizers? or are they still wip?
2. the major problem Ive got with this printer is the "nozzle hitting infill"-Problem. Did you experienced that with yours? If so, did you managed to fix it somehow?
Again, this upgrade is awesome. :) Instantly subscribed :D
Thank you very much in advance
Morning Mike.
Hope this finds you well.
As always I enjoy following along your creality journey. 👍
Great content.
A side note on a couple of things you might like or want to share with your viewers/community.
When handling a board ( motherboard or otherwise) it’s really good practice to wear an anti static strap or at the very least touch a bonded surface while handling the board. This prevents accidental static discharge into the board.
Which would permanently damage the board. I share this point with you, as we do a lot of marine electronics.
I’m not sure if you have done this firmware mod already to your K1-k1 max. That is increasing the bed probe point count.
I’m running a 24X axis by 24Y axis probe count on our K1 max currently, with excellent success and no error codes.
I think this could also be done with any rooted machine running Klipper?
If you’d like more info on this (it’s a bit of a process) please contact me as I would be happy to share this with you.
Cheers, and best regards from Salt Spring Island B.C.
Ron.
Hi Ron, reagrding routing the device, did you install Mainsail from GitHub? I did and was so happy about it till I found that the modules (e.g. Moonraker) can't be updated to their latest version.
Do you or anybody know of a way to update the modules?
Thanks!
Is there a specific reason you decided to print the reinforcement blocks in ABS, and would there be any noticeable difference if they were printed in PLA or PLA+? I'm very new to 3D printing and haven't tried any other materials yet, especially those that may be a little fussier.
Did you have a link to Printables of it?
Nice job!
Thank you!
Modtastic 👍👍👍 you put alot of thought and effort into this project, great video
Id next like to see you widen the the frame, put longer linear rails on and put a bigger build plate on it. At least 300x300mm👍
Thank you! Ah, that is a big project! I think it's doable, I was thinking about re-printing the entire base with lots of attachment points... problem is that I'd want it in one piece and for that, I'd need a bigger printer.
hermoso trabajo, felicitaciones por tu dedicación y por la calidad de tus soluciones
¡Muchas gracias, tengo varios videos más muy pronto!
seems alot of people have problems with the rails, but i checked my KE as i got it and the rails didint have any slop or unwanted movement in them, i guess i got lucky tho the z axis needs to be secured and im working on moving the roll off the printer, by moveing the roll above the printer on to a shelf i need to weld the legs for and cut a board of birch ply for the top
OMG that base is flexible. Well, they have to cut production cost somewhere, hopefully the base is still good enough.
Artillery Sidewinder X4 Pro (between V3 KE and CR-10 SE in price) has X & Y rails and Z braces from the box and it looks like metal (not sure though, might be just paint). Not many reviews of it though.
Did you make z braces?
Yesterday I broke down a long unused Monoprice Maker Select Plus, saved the CF Z axis support rods and a few other parts. Those rods would probably fit this mod, though given the amount of flex there at the very end, I’m unsure if this will be worthwhile. Looking forward to your pre/post print results.
I'm nearly finished it, and it'll be fully printable (minus the bolts) I still need to address the extruder on the printer, so I can't really say it's going to do much, without having solved the other issue as well. That will be it's own dedicated video, which is in the works, but it taking some time because of the complexity of the brackets and the confined space to work with there.
Great upgrade. Much appreciated
Many many more to come! Thanks for the comment I really appreciate that you took the time.
Hey. I picked up some new filament from CC3D off of Amazon. It is a mixture of tpu and nylon. I am in Canada as well and was wondering if you tried it yet? It was only 30$ CAD so I figured why not. Maybe you can pick up a roll and test it? Here is the name of it. CC3D High Hardness Flexible 72D TPU
Totally Nuts... I love it! ;-)
😀
Hi. I'm new to 3d printing. I ordered ADXL345 Vibration Compensation Sensor and was wondering if you know that it could make a difference in vibrations or no ? I saw one test that demonstrated how it works in a lab environment, so the results are great, but what about real life.
I've done some reading on this, and apparently if everything is stock, there is little to no difference. When we start modding the printer, you'd want to run the calibration again to find the new best values. I don't think this printer works the same for vibration as we'd have on a Core XY, those printers have a head doing movement on X/Y. Here we have separate X & Y axis and they'd need to each have a sensor which is active, and I think in most cases, people use the same sensor and swap it back and fourth.
I have the V3 SE version but haven’t unboxed it yet. So I’m not sure if the base is the same, having said that, can the parts you printed here be printed out in PET-G or PLA? I have two other printers but they’re not set up for ABS. Awesome video.
Its the same base.
@@andresquintero9855that’s good to know. Wonder if the other filaments would work, though?
@@Impuritan1 I don't see why not, though I would probably recommend PETG over PLA
I'm looking forward to seeing how you get the gantry plumb with the plate. I just put a laser on the x gantry, marked the spot and ran Z up to 200mm and marked again. There is a 9mm movement toward the back. Laser was pretty bright so I will repeat with a lower power/brightness to be sure.
I'm nearly finished that upgrade, but 9mm, that's quite a bit more than I was expecting. I noticed that the nozzle is not set at a perfect 90 to the frame, I'm not sure how you're attaching your laser, if it is to the head, it might be throwing off the results. Are you able to use a plumb bob instead of a laser? I'll check to see if I have one, or if I can make one up quick.
@@NeedItMakeIt I ran the numbers in a triangle calculator (cheating?).
Side a = 200.2024 (calculated)
Side b = 200
Side c = 9
Angle ∠A = 90° = 1.5708 rad = π/2
Angle ∠B = 87.423° = 87°25'24" = 1.52583 rad
Angle ∠C = 2.577° = 2°34'36" = 0.04497 rad
Just 2.5 degrees off plumb gives a lot of runout. I'm printing the front blocks now and remixing gantry mounts to match. Do you have a 3d model showing the hard points once installed?
@@haroldmelton11 It's only cheating on a test, you're safe on this one. I've heard of some people having theirs off by quite a bit, but geez this is pretty extreme. The solution I'm working on will have some adjustment so that the angle can be set and fine-tuned. Maybe I need to give it a little more adjustment!
When putting in the threaded inserts, leave them proud of the surface by .5 mm. Follow up with a flat piece of metal to finish seating them. They stay plenty hot for a few seconds.
That makes the finished surface much nicerb without having to clean up flash with a razor later.
That's a great tip, thanks for that. I have some more to do for the next project and I'll be giving this a try for sure! The razor method tends to scuff the surface a little bit, it's better to avoid it, inserting from below would be an option too except 6 + 4 at the back had to be inserted from the outside and it didn't make sense to do them differently.
This is how I install inserts. It keeps them straight and clean.
@@generic0000 Great tip, I have only a little bit of experience with inserts, just enough to get them installed, but not so much to have them looking as good. Thanks again for the tips.
Thank you, that's smart !
I'm glad you enjoyed it. I try to think of as much as possible, sometimes it doesn't always end up that way.
Very clean and nice way to mount. hope you can release reenforcement mod soon.
i'm printing your new linear rail mod :D
Thank you, too bad the base wasn't just a bit thicker, I would have provided a template to drill from above and then easily insert from above as well. It's all good though, these blocks make for a pretty strong connection.
@@NeedItMakeIt with this mod i’m thinking about mount the linear rail directly to the flat layer of the base. So we don’t need to print the adaper. The base will make sure two rails flat and parallel. Because i’m printing adaper vertical and it not stick to the bed well. So the final print are not completely correct
@@andoan9869 It sounds like a great idea. I'd just caution that there are some clearance issues due to the motor pulley and front and rear 'bump-outs' if you can raise them high enough, it should work well. The base is also not completely flat, but it should be close enough to work, a shim could be added as-needed to make sure the rails remain straight and on the same plane.
@@NeedItMakeIt yeah i’m thinking it at the beginning of using it. But 3d design and test print such a pain due to I only have one printer as this time. It some thing not fit. I have to revert everything back to print again. Hope after this mod you can have some time to think about this idea. 😆
@@andoan9869 It's a good idea, but I don't think that I'll have the time for at least a year, I work up to 15 hours a day at the moment, between design, video comments and testing, I have only enough time left to eat and sleep.
I am really enjoying these upgrades to this printer and can’t wait for the next ones. I want to see what this printer can become. What is the slurry you are referring to to glue the parts? Thank you for the excellent content.
I think maybe super glue would work well, but ABS slurry is acetone mixed with some ABS parts and I've let them dissolve. You can also use Acetone as-is, but it will not be as much of a filler as what I was using. Hot glue could be another good option, they just need to be held well enough to add the insert from the other side.
I am surprised to see that the columns are attached to a almost flat piece of metal ( Alu or steel, cant see ) I see there is a bend that reinforces it, but still, I guess extruded profiles as a frame is better. I am looking into gantry supports and think the will be best if I can grab onto the bottom of the columns.
Very nice. You have a product people would buy. Make kits for other printers.
We're getting close with the several mods to bring the overall print quality up. I just wish they would have made it a little easier to mod this printer. At least it's been a challenge finding other ways to do it. I have several more videos coming for this printer and the SE to bring more stability, hopefully next Saturday I'll have the next mod ready. I'm pretty happy with Free filament when I post the designs on MW, that in combination with videos every week (sometimes 2X) it should get to the point within the next year to be sustainable.... I hope.
When will the frame brace you showed at the end of the video be released?
I think it should be about 1 week, I wanted to come up with something that looks good, and it has to be printable on this printer. I'm nearly finished and it's looking pretty good... well I think so anyway.
am i crazy to attach the base of the printer to a 80lb 1/4in table top and weld a gantry frame that this printers gantry fits under and attach to? this would make a solid steel frame around the printer stabilizing it i haven't seen anyone try and make a solid steel exo skeleton frame weldment for a 3d printer its all aluminum extrude with screws. any feedback id appreciate
No, I don't think that's crazy at all, it's just going to make the printer very hard to move around. A welded steel frame is nearly the best thing I can think of, second only to Cast iron or granite/epoxy granite. I've been wanting to make a steel frame for some time now, but I'm a Woodworker by trade, so I guess I should do a solid wood frame, it 'wood' be stunning! I say go for it, possibly eye bolts to the table and tension steel cabling down to it would be another option.
do you think printing the supports in ASA would work?
Yes, the solvent for both is the same and if you need to you can use super glue rather than the method I used. it really just needs to hold them in place well enough to get the inserts in.
Im 100% doing this
Been in 3d printing since the e3v2 was released and now they havw like 15 new ender 3 versions. I now have 2 enlarged bedslingers but i feel i need more >:)
LOL. I know it's pretty confusing they've recently released the Ender 3 V3 metal frame printer, and soon they'll have the Plus sized model as well. The printers are nothing like the Ender 3 V2 or this printer, the KE/SE. It really should have been Ender 3 V4, or something else.
Cool!!!
More cool stuff coming soon for this printer!
Can the V3 SE print ABS? Can PETG be used instead?
You can print ABS on these printers, but you'll want to print in an enclosure, I've also printed with a thick blanket on the printer to make a pseudo chamber. It's not ideal but it can be done. PETG can be used, but Basic PETG is pretty flexible, using PETG-CF will give you stiffer parts.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you
I really like the idea of adding all those mount points to the bed. But... with the reinforcing doublers glued in under the deck, why insert the heatsets from the top, where they're much easier to pull out under load? Why not insert from the bottom so the'd have to pull through the doublers? Loads would get distributed into the deck better, too.
Yes it's better but the headset is long enough to work well and touch the doubler.
While I probably won't be using most of these, it would be nice if they included some kind of mount for their nebula cam they have available... so I may end up using at least one of them for that
For sure, though I have a mod coming which would allow the cam to be bed mounted along with the accelerometer, I've always found it more helpful on the slingers to have a camera that moves with the bed so the video is more clear. Do you know much that nebula camera weighs?
@@NeedItMakeIt Amazon says 4.9 Oz, tho I did find a few different models to mount it to the gantry last night; seems most useful to have the camera move up with the print so that the active area doesn't go off screen (esp with the spaghetti detection capabilities), so I'll probably use one of those (bit of an easier mounting situation as well)
NIIIIIIIICEEEEEE..
Just finishing up the next video which take advantage of some of these added connections, I hope to have it done for this Saturday or Sunday!
@@NeedItMakeIt im purchasing mine today.
Just returned my SE and ordered the KE, I felt the features to cost was worth it. Which mods on the KE would you say are a must? Even for a beginner like myself as this is my first 3D printer. Also been following you for a while, keep up the very helpful vids!
*UPDATE* KE arrived today, did the standard boat benchy and wow! I've seen a few videos out there with various different end results, but mine was really good. So far very happy!
to bad you ain't offering to do these as a service. I wouldn't feel comfortable doing this stuff XD
I have have very little experience with it as well, I've tried to make it as easy as possible, it's probably 5/10 because we have quite a few steps involved. My advice is to take your time, do the easy holes first and the ones towards the back. We're going to need them for the next project!
So, lets not worry about how hard it is to remove double sided tape. But instead, let's drill holes.
Another option would be to fill those spaces with epoxi
I don't think heat inserts go to epoxy 🤔
@@kimmotoivanen I never tried but it's an interesting thing to try
Epoxy is thermoset polymer, i.e. it doesn't melt.
@@norseengineer It doesn't. But it gets soft when I heat it
I don't see what adding all this will make it better.
You'll have to check out the follow up video then to see what we used them for.
fIrSt!!!1
Nice!
It REALLY IS an ugly drill. Jk. Great mod
LOL. I've had a few comments about my drill. This drill has been with me for about 13 years and it's still going strong, I love the ratcheting chuck on it. The drills that followed still don't compare. One of these days I'll open it up and see what it looks like inside, I'd imagine it could use a little TLC.
Thanks, I'm working on finishing up some mods for this printer, they should be ready within a week or two.!
@@NeedItMakeIt I was just kidding! Lmao! I have the same one! I love it too. I thought you were being silly with that comment. People complain about the oddest things
This is very stupid
I do have an ask. When I download the files and open them I get an error. I use PrusaSlicer and normally when this happens it means that the files were created with Bambu slicer. Can there just STL files to down as well please.
I also created the STLs, but let me have another look in a few minutes.
I had a look and the individual STLs are there, but you'll need to download them as RAW files. They'll be individual parts if you do.
Yes the stl files are there for the blocks for inserts but for the linear rails upgrade they are all 3mf files that will not open in PrusaSlicer.
@@Suhlirvideos Okay, I've loaded the STLs for the linear rails to Maker World, sorry about that.
Your awesome! Thank you