Hey Enzzo, im fine! i got a big one thats been in the making for the last three months. a Jaguar build witch i do hope to be able to edit and release in about two weeks. Have a nice day
Nice work! I've seen people wire up the cold start injector on a rpm switch to add fuel at a certain rpm where they were going lean. Could possibly help out.
Hi, I was one of those that thought it was running too lean under boost and suggested you might need a fmu (fuel management unit) rising rate fuel pressure regulator to increase the fuel pressure during boost conditions which would richen the mixture to eliminate the misfire. You can do a quick and dirty test if this would help by hooking up your fuel pressure gauge then while driving under boost pinch off your return line slightly. Make sure your fuel return line clamps and fittings are tight and the hoses in good condition before you do this, you are now temporarily adding high pressure to a return line which was never designed to run high pressure so it could blow off so be careful when you try this test. I added a turbo to a Volvo na engine years ago and had the same problem, pinching off the return line proved adding an fmu was needed. The beauty of the fmu is that you can maintain a good air fuel ratio from idle to full pull by adjusting the fmu with springs internally. Hooking up your fuel pressure gauge again will confirm whether you need to change any pumps, I don't think they are the immediate problem, but the gauge would confirm this under full pull. Hope this helps, looking forward to your continuation of your diesel pump calibration machine too. I can call you if you want me to help you over the phone. Thanks for all the great videos, Ross in Maine
Hi Ross, i remember that tip and i did try it (pinching the return line) but it didnt make any difference at all .. a fuel pressure regulator with a boost regulation (more fuel when on boost) is a good idea to .. but pinching of the return line should make the car run fat just like the FMU would do when its at max regulation .. so i dont think thats the trick either unfortently
Try using an early SAAB 900 turbo k-jet warm up regulator (WUR). These are specifically designed to richen the fuel mixture during boost and have a turbo pressure connection. The standard warm up regulator will lean out under boost. Your WUR is acting like it requires an overhaul anyway. The normal WUR will lower the pressure on the pintle for the fuel distributor when cold, increasing pressure when warm and leaning out the mixture. The turbo one acts like a rising rate fuel regulator when under boost. When they require an overhaul they can lean out as rpm increases.
Hey Ian , thanks for the input, but i think the next step now will be an aftermarket ECU that will controll both fuel and ignition .. ofcourse cheap stuff and mounted directly on this old NA-engine.
@@Foffe2000 bosch k jetronic technician here, what Ian Smith says is correct about the operation of the warm up regulator you can fit one from any turbo car generally they are all the same easy to find from audi bmw volvo turbo cars setup the pipe connections just the same way as a volvo 740 or 240 turbo has them installed, it will make a world of difference to the acceleration pick up. Its cheaper than an ecu because a k jet engine does not use an ecu. The boost pressure from the turbo acts on the regulator diaphragm enriching the fuel supply just as an accelerator pump on a carburettor does.
@@Andy-sh9eq i recon so, my initial idea wouldnt have worked anyway. It worked on the principle that the extra air generated by the turbo would get picket up by the "air-flap" that ritchen the fuel mixture. What i didnt take in consideration is the back-pressure from the head. My plan now is that i am going with a aftermarket ecu-install sometime this summer.
Udda fråga på en video om en gammel-volvo =) , men OM603 h-profilstakarna är från ACM.se . Tyvärr är det sällan dom har vevstakarna hemma. Men bara att kolla. Packningar tog jag från Ebay.se , jag minns inte exakt var men inbilla mig att det fanns en engelsk sida (på ebay) som hade näranog allt inklusive kolvringar. Dock är det numera tull på grejjorna i och med uträdet ur EU, så det kan vara värt å se sig om på andra ställen.
Most engine stands have 4 holes drilled in the inner shaft and one hole drilled in the outer tube so that you can insert a 12mm Grade 8 high tensile pin or bolt to stop the engine rotating.
ah . true ive seen that .. the pin is sometimes springloaded to engage when you pass a hole . This is something homebuilt and just a piece of string would have solved the problem (but when youre lazy like me getting a piece of string can be to much work)
Hej, jag tror det hela är en tankevurpa från min sida (tyvärr), denna k-jetronic har en platta som böjjer sig av luft-flödet och min första tanke var att denna borde böjja sig än mer med extra ladd-luft från turbon. Det jag inte tänkte på var mot-trycket på andra sidan om denna mätutrustning (vilket blir "laddtrycket" om du har en turbotrycksmätare monterad). Ingen del av min utrustning tar hänsyn till trycket. Endast flödet. Jag har köpt ett eftermarknadssprut och har tänkt som nästa steg byta insuget och montera spridare istället, alternativt svetsa "bongar" för spridarna mot befintligt insug
do you think i can overcome the 0.7-0.8 bars of boost with a sqeasy bottle? .. its not a great deal of boost. but im not sure. I have bought a maxxecu aftermarket ecu i am planing to mount on this car, wéll see if i manage to do it this year or of its a project for 2023
@@Foffe2000 Dont put it on the boost side put on the inlet side of the turbo, then when you put your foot down and ARF goes to 22 squeese the bottle of gas to feed the engine so we can see if it truely needs more gas
Hi there if you get a 10.1 FMU (fuel management unit) you run a vacuum line to it and for every pound of boost it adds 10lbs on fuel pressure, should solve your issue, still on the cheap
Great stuff ! Did you lower the compression of the engine while installing the turbo or just slapped it in place like that ? Maybe volvos are that solid :)
no , i just ran with the original internals, tought to myself ill just run low boost in the begining anyhow. I am planing on swapping in an aftermarket ECU next up. With that setup i should be able to keep a better track of the lambda. So even then i dont think i am going to lower the compression.
Good to seeing you again. Are the fuel injectors flowing enough fuel under full throttle? If I understand it correctly the higher pressure won’t give you more full just better atomization. Is this a K Jet tropic Bosch fuel injection system?
Hello Cullen , i dont know if they flow enough, they probebly aint. It is a Bosch K-jetronic and the turbo version got a slighty higher pressure than the N/A engine on these Volvo engines.. but those turbo engines maybe run bigger injectors to? At full throttle it runs lean and breaks up allready at about 3500 rpm .. but now at the low end im am running as fat fuelmixture as about 10:1 air to fuel ratio .. so its like not working linear over the rpm-register
@@Foffe2000 Hello, that does sound like it could be the injectors maxing out, I did a K-Jet 16v Golf N/A to turbo conversion many years ago, we had an issue like this (amongst others) which was solved by replacing the injectors for higher flowing ones from a Ferrari Testarossa (also Bosch and luckily a direct replacement) it fixed it and the car was a rocket but we never fully tested the old injectors to see if they were just blocked so maybe they could be cleaned?? Good luck and keep it up, it will be a fun car when you get it running properly!! 😉👍
HI! I hope you doing well!
Dont stop this type of videos, I learn a lot!!
Have a nice day!
Hey Enzzo, im fine! i got a big one thats been in the making for the last three months. a Jaguar build witch i do hope to be able to edit and release in about two weeks. Have a nice day
@@Foffe2000 ohhh niceee,
I can't wait to see.
Nice work! I've seen people wire up the cold start injector on a rpm switch to add fuel at a certain rpm where they were going lean. Could possibly help out.
Cheap simple and easy to do ! i like it ! thanks
Exactly, worth a try for sure!
Nice work! Help me please. Is there drilled holes for crank position sensor bracket in your b23e block? Do you remember? Thank you!
Bra video! Alltid kul att kolla 😀
Tackar, hoppas å tror jag till slut får nått iaf lite häftigt å visa upp till slut
What front lip is that?
Hi,
I was one of those that thought it was running too lean under boost and suggested you might need a fmu (fuel management unit) rising rate fuel pressure regulator to increase the fuel pressure during boost conditions which would richen the mixture to eliminate the misfire. You can do a quick and dirty test if this would help by hooking up your fuel pressure gauge then while driving under boost pinch off your return line slightly. Make sure your fuel return line clamps and fittings are tight and the hoses in good condition before you do this, you are now temporarily adding high pressure to a return line which was never designed to run high pressure so it could blow off so be careful when you try this test. I added a turbo to a Volvo na engine years ago and had the same problem, pinching off the return line proved adding an fmu was needed. The beauty of the fmu is that you can maintain a good air fuel ratio from idle to full pull by adjusting the fmu with springs internally. Hooking up your fuel pressure gauge again will confirm whether you need to change any pumps, I don't think they are the immediate problem, but the gauge would confirm this under full pull. Hope this helps, looking forward to your continuation of your diesel pump calibration machine too. I can call you if you want me to help you over the phone. Thanks for all the great videos,
Ross in Maine
Hi Ross, i remember that tip and i did try it (pinching the return line) but it didnt make any difference at all .. a fuel pressure regulator with a boost regulation (more fuel when on boost) is a good idea to .. but pinching of the return line should make the car run fat just like the FMU would do when its at max regulation .. so i dont think thats the trick either unfortently
Try using an early SAAB 900 turbo k-jet warm up regulator (WUR). These are specifically designed to richen the fuel mixture during boost and have a turbo pressure connection. The standard warm up regulator will lean out under boost. Your WUR is acting like it requires an overhaul anyway. The normal WUR will lower the pressure on the pintle for the fuel distributor when cold, increasing pressure when warm and leaning out the mixture. The turbo one acts like a rising rate fuel regulator when under boost. When they require an overhaul they can lean out as rpm increases.
Hey Ian , thanks for the input, but i think the next step now will be an aftermarket ECU that will controll both fuel and ignition .. ofcourse cheap stuff and mounted directly on this old NA-engine.
@@Foffe2000 bosch k jetronic technician here, what Ian Smith says is correct about the operation of the warm up regulator you can fit one from any turbo car generally they are all the same easy to find from audi bmw volvo turbo cars setup the pipe connections just the same way as a volvo 740 or 240 turbo has them installed, it will make a world of difference to the acceleration pick up. Its cheaper than an ecu because a k jet engine does not use an ecu. The boost pressure from the turbo acts on the regulator diaphragm enriching the fuel supply just as an accelerator pump on a carburettor does.
@@Andy-sh9eq i recon so, my initial idea wouldnt have worked anyway. It worked on the principle that the extra air generated by the turbo would get picket up by the "air-flap" that ritchen the fuel mixture. What i didnt take in consideration is the back-pressure from the head. My plan now is that i am going with a aftermarket ecu-install sometime this summer.
vart köpte du h profills stakar till om603. och vart köpte du lager och packningar?
Udda fråga på en video om en gammel-volvo =) , men OM603 h-profilstakarna är från ACM.se . Tyvärr är det sällan dom har vevstakarna hemma. Men bara att kolla. Packningar tog jag från Ebay.se , jag minns inte exakt var men inbilla mig att det fanns en engelsk sida (på ebay) som hade näranog allt inklusive kolvringar. Dock är det numera tull på grejjorna i och med uträdet ur EU, så det kan vara värt å se sig om på andra ställen.
Most engine stands have 4 holes drilled in the inner shaft and one hole drilled in the outer tube so that you can insert a 12mm Grade 8 high tensile pin or bolt to stop the engine rotating.
ah . true ive seen that .. the pin is sometimes springloaded to engage when you pass a hole . This is something homebuilt and just a piece of string would have solved the problem (but when youre lazy like me getting a piece of string can be to much work)
löst sig än? hade jag varit dig så testa att ta en bränsle pump från 940 turbo, eller något med högre tryck i.
Hej, jag tror det hela är en tankevurpa från min sida (tyvärr), denna k-jetronic har en platta som böjjer sig av luft-flödet och min första tanke var att denna borde böjja sig än mer med extra ladd-luft från turbon. Det jag inte tänkte på var mot-trycket på andra sidan om denna mätutrustning (vilket blir "laddtrycket" om du har en turbotrycksmätare monterad). Ingen del av min utrustning tar hänsyn till trycket. Endast flödet. Jag har köpt ett eftermarknadssprut och har tänkt som nästa steg byta insuget och montera spridare istället, alternativt svetsa "bongar" för spridarna mot befintligt insug
Just for a test run a small hose and a queasy bottle feed hose into turbo inlet and give
it a squirt under boost to see if it runs better....
do you think i can overcome the 0.7-0.8 bars of boost with a sqeasy bottle? .. its not a great deal of boost. but im not sure. I have bought a maxxecu aftermarket ecu i am planing to mount on this car, wéll see if i manage to do it this year or of its a project for 2023
@@Foffe2000 Dont put it on the boost side put on the inlet side of the turbo, then when you
put your foot down and ARF goes to 22 squeese the bottle of gas to feed the engine so we can see if it
truely needs more gas
@@kermets ah yeah thats true, i will try that and se if it will rev over 3000rpm , thanks Kermet
Hi there if you get a 10.1 FMU (fuel management unit) you run a vacuum line to it and for every pound of boost it adds 10lbs on fuel pressure, should solve your issue, still on the cheap
Great stuff ! Did you lower the compression of the engine while installing the turbo or just slapped it in place like that ? Maybe volvos are that solid :)
no , i just ran with the original internals, tought to myself ill just run low boost in the begining anyhow. I am planing on swapping in an aftermarket ECU next up. With that setup i should be able to keep a better track of the lambda. So even then i dont think i am going to lower the compression.
I need more w116 content!!
Good to seeing you again. Are the fuel injectors flowing enough fuel under full throttle? If I understand it correctly the higher pressure won’t give you more full just better atomization. Is this a K Jet tropic Bosch fuel injection system?
Hello Cullen , i dont know if they flow enough, they probebly aint. It is a Bosch K-jetronic and the turbo version got a slighty higher pressure than the N/A engine on these Volvo engines.. but those turbo engines maybe run bigger injectors to? At full throttle it runs lean and breaks up allready at about 3500 rpm .. but now at the low end im am running as fat fuelmixture as about 10:1 air to fuel ratio .. so its like not working linear over the rpm-register
@@Foffe2000 Hello, that does sound like it could be the injectors maxing out, I did a K-Jet 16v Golf N/A to turbo conversion many years ago, we had an issue like this (amongst others) which was solved by replacing the injectors for higher flowing ones from a Ferrari Testarossa (also Bosch and luckily a direct replacement) it fixed it and the car was a rocket but we never fully tested the old injectors to see if they were just blocked so maybe they could be cleaned??
Good luck and keep it up, it will be a fun car when you get it running properly!! 😉👍
Nice work on the intercooler 👍🏻
thanks Gorm
It must be the clean pure air in Sweden why it might be running lean🤣🤣
True! but this car being a Volvo should be built for that kinda air right? =)