Space between stringers will be dependent upon what type and what brand of stair tread you are using. Check with the manufacturer on this. It will not always be the same as the joist spacing recommended for the decking itself. I've seen a little as 9" recommended for stair stringers while deck joist of the same material may span 16" center to center.
Some of this is really different too me but I’m in Texas I’m a 2x12 guy for stairs and depending on composite or 2x6 I get a bit confused still even being a carpenter I guess I’m not a carpenter after 20 years 😂
@@gregvancom i am referring to 1/4 space between a woode cleat / tread support and the stringer the cleat is attached to. I also stop the tread shy of the stringer and use galvi' washers as bushings on the lags that join stringer to tread .
Be careful using only those metal hangers for stairs. One neighbor of ours fell through some stairs built with those. They are built for vertical loads, not for horizontal use.
Builder here, I mortice my 2x12 stringers 1/2" deep and drive the treads into the mortise. No need for blocks screwed under the treads. That does not give a professional look at all.
@@GrampalettasCamp I don't use glue, but I do run 3" screws through the stringer into the treads on deck stairs. I have not had any squeaking problems. On interior stairs, I would notch/rout the stringers adding a space for a wedge to be glued and driven at the notch and under the tread where it meets the stringers. I hope this makes sense.
@@Bullhead2017 thanks, the wedge idea is interesting. I built alternating tread stairs to my loft to cut the total run in half and I didn’t glue them. Not as quiet as I would like
Space between stringers will be dependent upon what type and what brand of stair tread you are using. Check with the manufacturer on this. It will not always be the same as the joist spacing recommended for the decking itself. I've seen a little as 9" recommended for stair stringers while deck joist of the same material may span 16" center to center.
Pressure blocks at top bottom and all posts
Some of this is really different too me but I’m in Texas I’m a 2x12 guy for stairs and depending on composite or 2x6 I get a bit confused still even being a carpenter I guess I’m not a carpenter after 20 years 😂
I've never been a fan of notched stairs. By the time you notch you wind up with half or less of the original strength. I like cleats instead.
Tread cleats need offsets , 1/ 4 " minimum
But 10 inches max.
@@gregvancom i am referring to 1/4 space between a woode cleat / tread support and the stringer the cleat is attached to. I also stop the tread shy of the stringer and use galvi' washers as bushings on the lags that join stringer to tread .
@@georgemckenzie2525 Thanks for clearing that up. Sometime we need a few more details to understand.
Notching it like in the picture prevent treads from being able to be attached on top 😂
Be careful using only those metal hangers for stairs. One neighbor of ours fell through some stairs built with those. They are built for vertical loads, not for horizontal use.
I guess I’ll drop my stair building hobby
4x12! Those are some chunky stairs :)
Nice if you can afford it but yeah, WAY overkill.
Never heard of such a thing.
Builder here, I mortice my 2x12 stringers 1/2" deep and drive the treads into the mortise. No need for blocks screwed under the treads. That does not give a professional look at all.
Do you glue the tread into the notch to avoid squeaking?
@@GrampalettasCamp I don't use glue, but I do run 3" screws through the stringer into the treads on deck stairs. I have not had any squeaking problems.
On interior stairs, I would notch/rout the stringers adding a space for a wedge to be glued and driven at the notch and under the tread where it meets the stringers.
I hope this makes sense.
@@Bullhead2017 thanks, the wedge idea is interesting. I built alternating tread stairs to my loft to cut the total run in half and I didn’t glue them. Not as quiet as I would like
Just add a riser board which also adds stiffness
After 20 yesrs those simpson hangers "in the weather" turn to rust.
Just saying
Yes….it is called “value engineering” i say it is junk made for “nail drivers” who claim to be carpenters
After 20 years, the wood will more than likely need to be replaced.
And after 20 years the wood will be rotten. Very few decks last more than 20 years without developing some serious deficiencies.
Pullded forward is better
Hello