Awesome video Jesse! You've definitely got me inspired now to start experimenting with my only designs. At 10:51 you swap out a 5Ah battery for a 12Ah battery and get a much larger current delivery. Just a sidenote to anyone reading this comment that it's not the amp hour (Ah) rating that delivers the current increase, it's the newer battery has a higher output current rating. Amp hours are just a measure of battery capacity, eg deliver 12A for 1 hour, 1A for 12 hours, or in your full speed case: 177A for 4 minutes 😅 You'll have to either add some more batteries in parallel to increase the Ah or run the batteries in series (increasing the Voltage) if your motor allows it, which will reduce the current required if you want it to last more than 4 minutes. I'm sure you know most of this already but just leaving this comment here if anyone tries to replicate your design. Loved the video and keen to follow your progress! 😉💪
Wow! fantastic work. Lots of potential you are showing there. Here's some stuff you may already know: You could reduce the pitch / size of the impeller, change the number of pump vanes etc. One hint for you and perhaps the most important variable is the RPM that the pump cavitates at. ALL waterjets have a characteristic narrow efficiency band where they pump best. A waterjet I bought spins at 16k rpm to get its max thrust. It has a 5 vane moderately pitched impeller and requires 6kw of input to get 330N of thrust. the same company also puts out smaller pumps. Interestingly two of their smaller pumps using less power in produce more thrust out. If your aren't aware the company is MHZ. Based out of Germany and their jets are used in a company called Lampuga's jet powered surf boards. In order for you to maximize your design you will need to have the right balance of all the components. If your impeller is too small then you wont have enough mass to accelerate to achieve the right thrust. if your pump is too big then you'll bog the motor before you get the rpm you need to get the pump to its best thrust range. Here's an interesting engineering thread discussing the math to quantify the things you'll need to consider. www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=217997. Inlet size, impeller size and pitch, and nozzle size all get sized together for best output. From what I can see, I think your design is pretty good already. Have fun tweaking and playing. I've always wanted to make a prototype pump which has variable inlet and nozzle size, and impeller pitch to play with on the fly to maximize a jet efficiency. This would be game changing but no small feat. All the best to you in your testing. You're definitely on the right track. Happy tinkering.
Thanks heaps. The next video im doing will be making a dyno and testing as many different configurations i can come up with including different stages. Then i will hopefully have all parts tuned to maximum efficency and thrust output. Working on variable diameter nozzle or easy testing. However in confined space variable pitch impella is difficult. Im just going to swap in and out a bunch of designs i reckon.
Wicked project mate very similar to what I am looking at doing… I have a tunnel hull kayak (seabird fisherman 12) and am looking at building something with Milwaukee kit as I have 9 batteries . Because of the size of the tunnel I’m looking at something that that will have to be a lot more compact as I do not want it to stick out under the boat. My idea is twin 40 or 50 mm impellers with a custom single piece inlet housing for the twin impellers. My build will not be about high speed more about getting up river in shallow water. I look forward to seeing how you go with this and hopefully I can learn a thing or 2 from you. Ps Victorian here
hey thanks for the comment, im from vic too! seems im going to be pushing just myself and an inflatable padleboard im hoping for it to be fairly fast. im guessing ill need 2 of these pumps on the final product for it to be fast enough. joint intakes would be cool. for simplicity sake im just going to be developing it as a single then i could always just add another unit if i need more power.
@@jessebarker3602 I want to add bolt on gear box that connects the 2 shafts and brings a single vertical shaft up though the kayak. That way there’s only 1 small hole to drill in the kayak
@@BobBob-ov1zv youll probably need metal gears of drive belts in the gearbox. 3d printed gears tend to tear apart and wear pretty quick. Going direct drive from motor has saved me from having to worry about and of that stuff.
That’s a lot of amps for a 12amp hour battery. You might have more luck getting a different battery. 177 amps would only last 4 minutes. If you wanted it to last more like 30 minutes you’d need a 90Ah pack…
Yeah plan was to spread the load over multiple batteries. Would decrease voltage sag. This is also static test. Once moving the motor would be under less load and drawing less amps
Inline isn't the way to go... Or at least for me it's not... Look into outboard jet drives... I'm working on one myself I'm up against a brick wall because my motor and controller are burning because of the amps I'm asking the motor to take.... I'd love to pick your brain
Gday thanks for the sub. Im also worried about my motor, 170 amps is going to get hot really quick. In the next video im going to be doing a lot of testing, we might see some smoke 😂😂 to draw less amps you have to either restrict the nozzle less or have a smaller impeller/pump.
Awesome video Jesse! You've definitely got me inspired now to start experimenting with my only designs. At 10:51 you swap out a 5Ah battery for a 12Ah battery and get a much larger current delivery. Just a sidenote to anyone reading this comment that it's not the amp hour (Ah) rating that delivers the current increase, it's the newer battery has a higher output current rating. Amp hours are just a measure of battery capacity, eg deliver 12A for 1 hour, 1A for 12 hours, or in your full speed case: 177A for 4 minutes 😅 You'll have to either add some more batteries in parallel to increase the Ah or run the batteries in series (increasing the Voltage) if your motor allows it, which will reduce the current required if you want it to last more than 4 minutes. I'm sure you know most of this already but just leaving this comment here if anyone tries to replicate your design. Loved the video and keen to follow your progress! 😉💪
Awesome
Thankyou 😁
Wow! fantastic work. Lots of potential you are showing there. Here's some stuff you may already know:
You could reduce the pitch / size of the impeller, change the number of pump vanes etc. One hint for you and perhaps the most important variable is the RPM that the pump cavitates at. ALL waterjets have a characteristic narrow efficiency band where they pump best. A waterjet I bought spins at 16k rpm to get its max thrust. It has a 5 vane moderately pitched impeller and requires 6kw of input to get 330N of thrust. the same company also puts out smaller pumps. Interestingly two of their smaller pumps using less power in produce more thrust out. If your aren't aware the company is MHZ. Based out of Germany and their jets are used in a company called Lampuga's jet powered surf boards.
In order for you to maximize your design you will need to have the right balance of all the components. If your impeller is too small then you wont have enough mass to accelerate to achieve the right thrust. if your pump is too big then you'll bog the motor before you get the rpm you need to get the pump to its best thrust range. Here's an interesting engineering thread discussing the math to quantify the things you'll need to consider. www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=217997.
Inlet size, impeller size and pitch, and nozzle size all get sized together for best output.
From what I can see, I think your design is pretty good already. Have fun tweaking and playing. I've always wanted to make a prototype pump which has variable inlet and nozzle size, and impeller pitch to play with on the fly to maximize a jet efficiency. This would be game changing but no small feat.
All the best to you in your testing. You're definitely on the right track.
Happy tinkering.
Thanks heaps. The next video im doing will be making a dyno and testing as many different configurations i can come up with including different stages. Then i will hopefully have all parts tuned to maximum efficency and thrust output. Working on variable diameter nozzle or easy testing. However in confined space variable pitch impella is difficult. Im just going to swap in and out a bunch of designs i reckon.
dude its really nice. do you think to share model data?
Worlds fastest storage tub....😁👍👍
Wicked project mate very similar to what I am looking at doing… I have a tunnel hull kayak (seabird fisherman 12) and am looking at building something with Milwaukee kit as I have 9 batteries . Because of the size of the tunnel I’m looking at something that that will have to be a lot more compact as I do not want it to stick out under the boat. My idea is twin 40 or 50 mm impellers with a custom single piece inlet housing for the twin impellers. My build will not be about high speed more about getting up river in shallow water. I look forward to seeing how you go with this and hopefully I can learn a thing or 2 from you. Ps Victorian here
hey thanks for the comment, im from vic too! seems im going to be pushing just myself and an inflatable padleboard im hoping for it to be fairly fast. im guessing ill need 2 of these pumps on the final product for it to be fast enough. joint intakes would be cool. for simplicity sake im just going to be developing it as a single then i could always just add another unit if i need more power.
@@jessebarker3602 I’ve started developing the dual intake in sketch up if it’s any good I’ll share it
@@jessebarker3602 I want to add bolt on gear box that connects the 2 shafts and brings a single vertical shaft up though the kayak. That way there’s only 1 small hole to drill in the kayak
@@BobBob-ov1zv youll probably need metal gears of drive belts in the gearbox. 3d printed gears tend to tear apart and wear pretty quick. Going direct drive from motor has saved me from having to worry about and of that stuff.
Whats the efficiency?
Looks just like the other guys 3D printer Jet Drive, yeah?
What is the power of the engine?
Not sure on the exact, i didnt measure the voltage. But ideally without any voltage sag 18v x 177 amps is around 3000w or 3kw motor.
What motor is that? Do u have the link where u bought the motor?
Hello, no i dont. The motor has been taken out of a 16" milwaukee chainsaw.
@@jessebarker3602 thanks
That’s a lot of amps for a 12amp hour battery. You might have more luck getting a different battery. 177 amps would only last 4 minutes. If you wanted it to last more like 30 minutes you’d need a 90Ah pack…
Yeah plan was to spread the load over multiple batteries. Would decrease voltage sag. This is also static test. Once moving the motor would be under less load and drawing less amps
Inline isn't the way to go... Or at least for me it's not... Look into outboard jet drives... I'm working on one myself I'm up against a brick wall because my motor and controller are burning because of the amps I'm asking the motor to take.... I'd love to pick your brain
You can contact me through my TH-cam's Facebook page
Gday thanks for the sub. Im also worried about my motor, 170 amps is going to get hot really quick. In the next video im going to be doing a lot of testing, we might see some smoke 😂😂 to draw less amps you have to either restrict the nozzle less or have a smaller impeller/pump.
@@jessebarker3602 th-cam.com/users/shorts6Kdf5em86KY?feature=share
@@jessebarker3602 a air vent on the top of the stator will solve your dry pumping issues
Ever noticed that jet skis have a spout of water shooting into the air for no apparent reason?