The system works and sounds great! Personally, I wouldn't worry about fixing the volume issue in those basement bedrooms. As you said, you have already gone above and beyond what's required and it's most likely loud enough from a practical standpoint. Not to mention, this system is a major improvement over what used to be in the house and what is typically found in residential homes. So I'd just leave it as is but if you do decide to fix it then that would also make for another fun project. Anyways, another excellent video. Keep up the good work.
If you are worried about sound levels, I would recommend maybe adding Sounder bases in the bedrooms. The nice thing with those is if you use a smoke/co combo, you can set them to alarm for both. You can choose between low frequency and a Sounder similar to the P2RL.
Yes that would be a solution as I talked about in the video I do not like the looks of them for one but also I require verifier tools to program them which is a problem for me
Great video. It went really well. If you want sounder bases you could get European notifier sounder bases as they look better but definitely wouldn’t be compliant. Keep up the great work. Can’t wait for some of the upgrades
You should put Emergency Light Remote Heads up on the old Smoke detector Spots. And but the battery unit in the Fire panel room or the attic. Very cool system.
@@nics-systems-electric Yeah Forgot about that. Well you could put the battery unit by the breaker panel and then take the Smoke alarm wires run it too the unit and the Breaker can be for the Emergency Lighting.
First thing, a lot of Honeywell panels will sound their NACs continuously on walk test when a device goes into trouble. My MS-10UD does this as well. Also, try to get your hands on Smoke Sabre. I have a couple cans of it and it works wonders for me.
Great job Nic! Looks really professional. Any plans to add a outdoor horn/strobe or strobe? Will you be linking the panels together to trip each other in supervisory? In regard to the strobes, I would bump everything up to 75 Candela. With your house being rather bright in the day having them on 15 candela wouldn’t be very effective.
I have connected them together for supervisory as far as the strobes I don't really see the obvious spot to set them sure you could do 75 but why not all the way up to 185 I don't see reasons for particular settings something I've never been trained on.
@@nics-systems-electric I did some quick calculations for you. From what I can see, the garage horn/strobe should be on 75 Candela, the downstairs low frequency sounder/strobe should be on 185, and the low frequency sounder/strobe upstairs should be set to 135. Of course this is only from what I can see on the video and I don’t have exact measurements.
@@nics-systems-electric the only reasons not to crank them up would be current draw and the risk for epileptic seizures. but I don’t see that being an issue on your system. these calculations are according to the manual and US fire code. Might be different for you though. Having them on 15 candela definitely doesn’t suffice though. Also, why not have all the devices on continuous and they just get coded from the panel?
@@nics-systems-electricIts the same reason you don't set a horn strobe to high volume in a tiny 6x6 bathroom. It needs to be bright enough so it can be indirectly viewed but also be directly viewed without being blinded lol
Ive installed so many alarm system in roblox for my clients as well as mass notification and it amazing me how cool and realistic some of these alarms are!
Nice! Pretty cool walk test it tells you the address of the device in red flashes and turns green when tested. That's pretty nice. Also if you wanted, you could integrate carbon monoxide detection as well to your system.
Thanks. I won't be adding CO detection on this system as the addressable CO detectors have a high cost and there is no risk of CO in this building so I can't justify it
My group home in the usa the fire alarm company put a horn strobe in every single bathroom of the house and its the super loud advances i wish they woulda done iust strobes in the bathrooms but no had to be loud horn strobes in all bathrooms and just strobes in the bedrooms its super loud when it goes off with that many horn strobes in a small house like that i wish it was sounders like what you guys have and just a horn strobe on the outside for the fire department i love your system cool setup with just the sounders are you going to add a horn strobe on the oustide of the house like how you have one on the outside of the garage?
Thank you and yes that would be loud for sure. Probably no outdoor devices if any it would just be a blue strobe at the main entrance but that is only meant for fire department to know what building it is which isn't very necessary when the system isn't monitored by a company that dispatches Fire
how in the world are you in candida and its warmer then it is in northern Illinois which is 76 as high, also great vid I look forward to more on this project
Fixed temperature only activates at the set temperature and is permanently activated once that happens if it's conventional and rate of rise activates at temperatures rising a set amount per minute often times both types of detection are in the same detector
I believe NFPA 72 requires that sound devices should be 15db above ambient sound level. NFPA also cites that that a residential occupancy’s usually around 35db average so if you add 15 above 35 you get 50db. That makes your install correct or at least to NFPA
About the EOL stuff, if the circuit only has 1 device you’re allowed to have the EOLR in the device, if the circuit contains 2 or more devices you need an EOL plate
This was talked about in my installation videos that addressable detectors are less durable and reliable in harsh conditions such as high and low temperatures and humidity
Wouldn't have any effect as everything can be removed and drywall can be patched or you could leave a lot of the wiring and boxes and could use lots of it for a security system lots of different ways you could go about it but the house is not going to be ever sold
I love ur videos and really nice interior around the detectors and in the future and Are u going to still add the supervisory in ur house and the outside garage one?
it keeps going off every once in a while because your devices are re-alarming. you're spraying a ridiculous amount of smoke into your detectors and not blowing them or waving them afterwards.
we use smoke check and it still re-alarms if you don't wave it out. Doesn't really matter the brand.. I know from experience from spraying many different detectors with many different things.@@nics-systems-electric
NFPA 95 specifies Duct detectors should be on the supply side IMC (international mechanical code) specifies they should be on the return side Around my area duct detectors are more often then not on the return side or return and supply as my state has adopted IMC
@@nics-systems-electriclast year we had a false alarm when someone hit the pull station with a ball in the gym and it went off. The fire alarm went off 4 times that day.
Thank you. Addressable CO detectors are extremely expensive and since they're not necessary in this building I cannot justify the cost so I will not be installing any CO detectors
When I installed the system in my house each bedroom had a L-serries LF sounder/strobe set on low volume as noise was very quiet in the rooms. Our Kitchen/Living room had high volume L-serries horn/strobes/ while each hall way had low volume setting L-serries horn/strobes. System was very loud when it was tested but passed so no volume changes were required. Average DB was 86 while the kitchen/ was 98.
Nice! this being a retrofit I did a direct replacement for devices as far as what was there before for A/V's some bedrooms could be louder but wasn't exactly in the budget for now
@@rodgodx345 no I do need rate of rise as the coverage calculation is different on what type you have which my calculations were based off rate of rise but I made an ordering mistake
Yes that is an option that I have used it requires you to stand in one specific spot and then trigger the max setting and then repeat that for each room
When spray lot smoke it stays in detector for awhile so need use air clean them out otherwise it may keep off up to 15 to 20 minutes so never put back service during that time until has passed make sure all clear
Yeah for sure. that's why we don't use this stuff at work anymore because it's so slow so I have one of the hand-me-down bottles of it that I'm trying to use up but it's painful lol
Ya just got can of stuff I noticed it to By way I am alarm guy I guess your working full time for alarm company now but use can of air to clean the chamber otherwise going of awhile Now that home fire alarm of yours is very extreme lot expensive equipment nice installation very correct right up to code i your sure you don't want all your systems monitored
@@richthepontiacguys1412 my only option is self monitored as alarm companies do not accept residential customers for fire alarm and if they are monitoring it they will only send you a message it doesn't call out so no different than me self monitoring it
I can montirior your alarm systems for you I own alarm company and we will call you or dispatch if you want and notify on late test signals been business for 5I Years does make any difference if it residential or commercial to us
Yes sir I did do that for supervisory where they will put each other into supervisory but I didn't go for alarm as you know how it can be with systems putting each other into full alarm latching having to reset both systems and it can end up like a dog chasing its own tail
@@CJ9899 yeah seems to be the easier way of doing it otherwise if building goes into alarm then tripping the other building into alarm it will just trip your first building into alarm again showing two alarms just seems more of a pain when they're set up that way
You could install parallels onto your MacBook to make it a pretty powerful windows PC. It's just a virtual machine that's super easy to install and use. That saved me from buying a windows laptop!
If you watch carefully you will see it is set too fast I talked about that in the video using the max setting doesn't make a difference if it is only hitting that level briefly not long enough for it to get a reading to hold
I'm going to fly all the way out to Canada, go to his house, and film me pulling it while sending the video to you. I'm also going to tamper with all the smoke detectors and horn strobes
@@VOLTRONDEFENDER4440 it might be fine for a hobbyist who doesn't mind waiting but I'm coming from real world experience working in the field the solo stuff is not nice to deal with it takes way too long it obviously does work as you saw it in this video but it is painfully slow
As someone who works in the field doing testing I can say you should not have to wait that long if you were using good smoke check testing spray it is only a few seconds no more than 10 there is a difference between being impatient and understanding that if you don't spray a lot it just simply will not go off because it's terrible I should've known better before using it in this video that people wouldn't understand
The system works and sounds great! Personally, I wouldn't worry about fixing the volume issue in those basement bedrooms. As you said, you have already gone above and beyond what's required and it's most likely loud enough from a practical standpoint. Not to mention, this system is a major improvement over what used to be in the house and what is typically found in residential homes. So I'd just leave it as is but if you do decide to fix it then that would also make for another fun project. Anyways, another excellent video. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for your feedback and I'm glad you enjoyed the video
If you are worried about sound levels, I would recommend maybe adding Sounder bases in the bedrooms. The nice thing with those is if you use a smoke/co combo, you can set them to alarm for both. You can choose between low frequency and a Sounder similar to the P2RL.
Yes that would be a solution as I talked about in the video I do not like the looks of them for one but also I require verifier tools to program them which is a problem for me
Your channel is the best I love it for entertain
Great video. It went really well. If you want sounder bases you could get European notifier sounder bases as they look better but definitely wouldn’t be compliant. Keep up the great work. Can’t wait for some of the upgrades
You should put Emergency Light Remote Heads up on the old Smoke detector Spots. And but the battery unit in the Fire panel room or the attic. Very cool system.
I put battery units up there I can't put a remote heads as it's 120 V that power more than just smoke alarms
@@nics-systems-electric Yeah Forgot about that. Well you could put the battery unit by the breaker panel and then take the Smoke alarm wires run it too the unit and the Breaker can be for the Emergency Lighting.
@@Time_For_Safety the wiring for the smoke alarms cannot be changed to low-voltage emergency lighting there are many other things on the circuit
Alright.
Great system install nic can't wait for your next home project
First thing, a lot of Honeywell panels will sound their NACs continuously on walk test when a device goes into trouble. My MS-10UD does this as well.
Also, try to get your hands on Smoke Sabre. I have a couple cans of it and it works wonders for me.
Yeah it seems to work all right I just hate the solo stuff smoke check is my go to but smoke sabre is good too
Great job Nic! Looks really professional. Any plans to add a outdoor horn/strobe or strobe? Will you be linking the panels together to trip each other in supervisory?
In regard to the strobes, I would bump everything up to 75 Candela. With your house being rather bright in the day having them on 15 candela wouldn’t be very effective.
I have connected them together for supervisory as far as the strobes I don't really see the obvious spot to set them sure you could do 75 but why not all the way up to 185 I don't see reasons for particular settings something I've never been trained on.
@@nics-systems-electric I did some quick calculations for you. From what I can see, the garage horn/strobe should be on 75 Candela, the downstairs low frequency sounder/strobe should be on 185, and the low frequency sounder/strobe upstairs should be set to 135.
Of course this is only from what I can see on the video and I don’t have exact measurements.
@@Firealarmcollectorperson OK good to know what is the reason for not just cranking it up to the highest setting I don't see the downside of that?
@@nics-systems-electric the only reasons not to crank them up would be current draw and the risk for epileptic seizures. but I don’t see that being an issue on your system. these calculations are according to the manual and US fire code. Might be different for you though. Having them on 15 candela definitely doesn’t suffice though.
Also, why not have all the devices on continuous and they just get coded from the panel?
@@nics-systems-electricIts the same reason you don't set a horn strobe to high volume in a tiny 6x6 bathroom. It needs to be bright enough so it can be indirectly viewed but also be directly viewed without being blinded lol
Proud to help you with this project. It looks great!
Thank you sir
and thus This is how Roblox Fire Alarm Houses started
So true
I'm putting one in firelight ex-200
Ive installed so many alarm system in roblox for my clients as well as mass notification and it amazing me how cool and realistic some of these alarms are!
Cool @@firealarmdiscovery
Nice! Pretty cool walk test it tells you the address of the device in red flashes and turns green when tested. That's pretty nice. Also if you wanted, you could integrate carbon monoxide detection as well to your system.
Thanks. I won't be adding CO detection on this system as the addressable CO detectors have a high cost and there is no risk of CO in this building so I can't justify it
love your shirt thats one of my favorite brands
You did a good job installing that system
Wow! You should get verifire tools and sounder bases for the bedroom smokes.
Verifier tools isn't publicly accessible for anyone it's a licensed program
@@nics-systems-electric oh
@@Fire-Lite457 problem is for them to synchronize as well as I need low frequency
@@Fire-Lite457 yeah he should get one
Great system Nic, regarding the sounder level, is the meter set to "slow" response ? as that will usually give a better average volume level.
Thanks. The metre was set to fast for the entire test I did talk about that at one point in the video
Am i not going to talk about the teddy on the roof anways amazing test keep it up
Well done Nic. Awesome work and video. Cheers
Thank you! Cheers!
My group home in the usa the fire alarm company put a horn strobe in every single bathroom of the house and its the super loud advances i wish they woulda done iust strobes in the bathrooms but no had to be loud horn strobes in all bathrooms and just strobes in the bedrooms its super loud when it goes off with that many horn strobes in a small house like that i wish it was sounders like what you guys have and just a horn strobe on the outside for the fire department i love your system cool setup with just the sounders are you going to add a horn strobe on the oustide of the house like how you have one on the outside of the garage?
Thank you and yes that would be loud for sure. Probably no outdoor devices if any it would just be a blue strobe at the main entrance but that is only meant for fire department to know what building it is which isn't very necessary when the system isn't monitored by a company that dispatches Fire
Wow really cool system! I love the video series. Also great job I knew you can do it.
Yayyy! NIC you finally got your system all set up ❤
Thank for your video
how in the world are you in candida and its warmer then it is in northern Illinois which is 76 as high,
also great vid I look forward to more on this project
Because it was summertime
ohhhhh that explains the date and time on the Notifier panel, thank you @@nics-systems-electric
Okay wait THIS is the moment we’ve all been waiting for
What is the difference between rate of rise and fixed temp heat detectors? Also, what room was the baby gate blocking the dogs from getting into?
Fixed temperature only activates at the set temperature and is permanently activated once that happens if it's conventional and rate of rise activates at temperatures rising a set amount per minute often times both types of detection are in the same detector
I believe NFPA 72 requires that sound devices should be 15db above ambient sound level. NFPA also cites that that a residential occupancy’s usually around 35db average so if you add 15 above 35 you get 50db. That makes your install correct or at least to NFPA
it's 75DBA over ambient
The system works and sounds great! 😎
About the EOL stuff, if the circuit only has 1 device you’re allowed to have the EOLR in the device, if the circuit contains 2 or more devices you need an EOL plate
Yes that sounds right that's how it is in Canada
Nic you should add a sounder/stobe in your shed that links to the house so if you are in the shed you can easily tell if the house system has gone off
I very rarely occupy any of the sheds however I do spend time in the garage and I have linked the systems together for supervisory
@@nics-systems-electric ok. Also I meant to say garage not shed sorry
What is 'Abort Test' in a fire alarm system? Great job by the way!
Why didn't you put addressable heat detectors in the attic?
This was talked about in my installation videos that addressable detectors are less durable and reliable in harsh conditions such as high and low temperatures and humidity
Hello NIC’S - SYSTEMS & ELECTRIC
Are you going to have the garage fire alarm system in the house filing system connected at the same time in the future
Yes they are connected together I showed that in my monthly
4 cans of spray later...
Sensor.... **Yawns**
Nic... Psst... You're supposed to activate...
Are you going to have a detector near the kitchen such as a heat detector?
No there because there are smoke detectors in the area
If you were ever going to sell this house hypothetically how would it affect the resale value?
Wouldn't have any effect as everything can be removed and drywall can be patched or you could leave a lot of the wiring and boxes and could use lots of it for a security system lots of different ways you could go about it but the house is not going to be ever sold
1st comment also nice system
i was kind of expecting you to randomly change the horn strobes to bells at some point
Do you wanna make it louder just add a low frequency, sounder base
I talked about that in the video it's not that simple for one I don't like the look of them I also require verifier tools to program them
Hey nic ❤❤
I love ur videos and really nice interior around the detectors and in the future and Are u going to still add the supervisory in ur house and the outside garage one?
Thank you yes I connected to two systems for supervisory
@@nics-systems-electric So that's why u didn't upload a video yesterday as well
@@Big_Noob-ROBLOX I upload on Saturdays and Wednesdays nothing has changed
@@nics-systems-electric Ok but wait today is Sunday here
@@Big_Noob-ROBLOX well in that case for you it would be I upload on Sunday and Thursday
You could fit L1 on that detector if you shortened Fire Panel to FACP
That's true I have to try and stick to terms though that other family members without electrical knowledge would be able to understand
10:01 “OSHA would like to know your location” (or CCOHS as it is in Canada)
Wsbc in my case. but this is a private job
Looking great. Do you plan on adding CO2 detection to the garage as well?
They're already is a CO detector in the garage but there won't be in the house
Hi Nic im just wondering is are there some power outage videos coming in the near future
If there's more power outages I will but typically there aren't any in the summertime but as we get into storm season there may be more
You did a good installation
it keeps going off every once in a while because your devices are re-alarming. you're spraying a ridiculous amount of smoke into your detectors and not blowing them or waving them afterwards.
That's the problem with the solo crap wouldn't have had this issue if I was using my Good stuff lol
we use smoke check and it still re-alarms if you don't wave it out. Doesn't really matter the brand.. I know from experience from spraying many different detectors with many different things.@@nics-systems-electric
NFPA 95 specifies Duct detectors should be on the supply side
IMC (international mechanical code) specifies they should be on the return side
Around my area duct detectors are more often then not on the return side or return and supply as my state has adopted IMC
That's the thing is there doesn't seem to be that much of a set standard as around my area in the field I have seen them on both
I really wanna do this in my house, but I don't have the money to do so, and I don't think my parents would be ok with me doing this.
We had a false alarm at my school yesterday because they had a fog machine on which tripped one of the smoke detectors
Yes it happens
@@nics-systems-electriclast year we had a false alarm when someone hit the pull station with a ball in the gym and it went off. The fire alarm went off 4 times that day.
Hey nice system but are you going to add carbon monoxide alarms like you did your garage
Thank you. Addressable CO detectors are extremely expensive and since they're not necessary in this building I cannot justify the cost so I will not be installing any CO detectors
When I installed the system in my house each bedroom had a L-serries LF sounder/strobe set on low volume as noise was very quiet in the rooms. Our Kitchen/Living room had high volume L-serries horn/strobes/ while each hall way had low volume setting L-serries horn/strobes. System was very loud when it was tested but passed so no volume changes were required. Average DB was 86 while the kitchen/ was 98.
Nice! this being a retrofit I did a direct replacement for devices as far as what was there before for A/V's some bedrooms could be louder but wasn't exactly in the budget for now
48:28 Ow! This is why I thank Wheelock for making code 3 a thing, because who wants to hear continuous? Definitely not me
Nice system!
Thanks!
Nice
U should double check to make sure that it’s rate of rise heat detector or not. I read the paper when I got mine and always double check first lol
They are just fixed temp
@@nics-systems-electric oh so u don’t need rate of rises?
@@rodgodx345 no I do need rate of rise as the coverage calculation is different on what type you have which my calculations were based off rate of rise but I made an ordering mistake
Oh well double check next time lol
I loved when the l series went like deeuo
Set the sound meter to only show the max decibels it gets (press the max button), then try again.
Yes that is an option that I have used it requires you to stand in one specific spot and then trigger the max setting and then repeat that for each room
@@nics-systems-electricI mean it doesn’t sound that bad to me, but I guess what isn’t tedious for me is not the same for others.
Hi nic please respond im a fire alarm fan myself and im 12 years old and i want to install this same system in my house when i grow up
Hey right on
Same here
You shold buy smokesaber it is very good
Smoke sabre works well I like using smoke check
should you put heat detectors in a kitchen?
Yes heat detectors can and are sometimes installed in kitchens
If I install the fire system in my house with a panel how to get constant ground fault every single day😅😂😂😂😂
When spray lot smoke it stays in detector for awhile so need use air clean them out otherwise it may keep off up to 15 to 20 minutes so never put back service during that time until has passed make sure all clear
Yeah for sure. that's why we don't use this stuff at work anymore because it's so slow so I have one of the hand-me-down bottles of it that I'm trying to use up but it's painful lol
Ya just got can of stuff I noticed it to By way I am alarm guy I guess your working full time for alarm company now but use can of air to clean the chamber otherwise going of awhile Now that home fire alarm of yours is very extreme lot expensive equipment nice installation very correct right up to code i your sure you don't want all your systems monitored
@@richthepontiacguys1412 my only option is self monitored as alarm companies do not accept residential customers for fire alarm and if they are monitoring it they will only send you a message it doesn't call out so no different than me self monitoring it
I can montirior your alarm systems for you I own alarm company and we will call you or dispatch if you want and notify on late test signals been business for 5I Years does make any difference if it residential or commercial to us
On your DSC neo alarm, can you press *8 6666 and tell me what happens?
Yeaaaaaaa 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
His house just by the background is getting awfully close to my cousins old house in Minnesota..
can I be in one of your videos if I can my name is Oliver symes
2 things that are actually cool if there’s is a real fire it can alrter you and for testing
You should install a lockdown button and a lockdown alarm system in the house
We're not a US school we should be OK without
@@nics-systems-electric😂
@@nics-systems-electriclmao very true.
@@nics-systems-electric💀💀💀
trueee@@nics-systems-electric
Next step is to connect your shed system and the house system together
Yes sir I did do that for supervisory where they will put each other into supervisory but I didn't go for alarm as you know how it can be with systems putting each other into full alarm latching having to reset both systems and it can end up like a dog chasing its own tail
@@nics-systems-electric Ah ok. Yeah that’s typically what I’ve seen. One alarm triggers a supervisory and vice versa
@@CJ9899 yeah seems to be the easier way of doing it otherwise if building goes into alarm then tripping the other building into alarm it will just trip your first building into alarm again showing two alarms just seems more of a pain when they're set up that way
@@nics-systems-electric too bad they can’t be networked. Now THAT would be cool
@@CJ9899 that would definitely be the way to do it
You could install parallels onto your MacBook to make it a pretty powerful windows PC. It's just a virtual machine that's super easy to install and use. That saved me from buying a windows laptop!
47:35 that is loud! Holy Crap! Why did NIC'S SYSTEMS ELECTRIC say that? #whatafirealarmfail
I don't understand what is the problem?
@@nics-systems-electric no problems
@@nics-systems-electric nothing
Your sound meter is too slow for these tests. see if it has a max level that shows what the max was, if not you need a fast acting sound meter
If you watch carefully you will see it is set too fast I talked about that in the video using the max setting doesn't make a difference if it is only hitting that level briefly not long enough for it to get a reading to hold
@@nics-systems-electric darn!
Blurring the pin indents or whatever they're called on your keys is smart
should have done continuous for the decible test
Somebody didn't watch the whole video
Yes i did. I posted this at the end.@@nics-systems-electric
@@thecomputergeek101old if you skipped through you would've missed that part so I'd guess that's what happened
can you put the timestamp? i usually keep subtitles off so i did not see when you said that@@nics-systems-electric
oops, i thought i watched the whole video, my bad, I apparently clicked off the video at 40:00ish@@nics-systems-electric
Yaaaa
What the dog doing
3rd comment. Cool!
Yay
3rd
Remember if people come to your house they better not tamper with your fire alarm system.
I'm going to fly all the way out to Canada, go to his house, and film me pulling it while sending the video to you. I'm also going to tamper with all the smoke detectors and horn strobes
Yea
If people come into my house they better tamper with my fire alarm system.
@@FireTech7Hey can I join?
Make sure to steal all my smoke heads while you're at it
Solo smoke detector tester is non flammable
I'll gladly take flammable stuff over the solo crap that doesn't work
@@nics-systems-electric it works but takes time for the detector to get set off as SER safety uses it and it works fine for him
@@VOLTRONDEFENDER4440 it might be fine for a hobbyist who doesn't mind waiting but I'm coming from real world experience working in the field the solo stuff is not nice to deal with it takes way too long it obviously does work as you saw it in this video but it is painfully slow
@@nics-systems-electric it does work in the field but I’m thinking your smoke detectors are not that sensitive
@@nics-systems-electric also safe tech uses solo smoke detector test stick! And it works flawlessly since it keeps the fake smoke inside the detector!
a few seconds is fine, just wait. You are so impatiant since you use it too much
As someone who works in the field doing testing I can say you should not have to wait that long if you were using good smoke check testing spray it is only a few seconds no more than 10 there is a difference between being impatient and understanding that if you don't spray a lot it just simply will not go off because it's terrible I should've known better before using it in this video that people wouldn't understand
Yay lol
it goes off after a while BECAUSE YOU OVERSPRAYED
It would be overspray if it was the good stuff but you have to use a lot of this solo stuff just for it to go off because it's absolute crap
Lol, doll way
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEERR