Now I’m stuck though. I get power when the key is on. ( spark occurs ) /6 electronic ignition up grade into 68-A-100 van. But as soon as I twist the key to start Key switch seems ok ? Worked good before engine swap 170-225. Got fuel , oil pressure no spark
About to do mine. I was looking for a video like this that explains in video what wires goes where. Not good with electrical names but more visual helps %100. Let’s you know how it goes. Thanks for the video
One quick question my dart has a 4 point ballast. Do you know how does that get connected? It’s same way one side to the other side? Meaning connecting it from one side to the other ? Sorry hard to explain 😂
Lmao!! Bro I just found this video because I'm working on a 73 D200 I just bought that isn't getting spark. When you started the video by lighting a smoke I fuckin fell OUT how fuckin smooth that was 😂😂 instantly liked the video, and subscribed at 1.5 minutes in when you actually knew what you wee talking about lol great video man, keep it up!
The original coil wire+ that goes to the dizzy (Points) comes off the ballast. That wire is connected with the junction. Basically, the ballast wires are connected together along with the (green/red) and (blue/yellow) that comes off the ignition box.
The ignition box and the harness leading up to the distributor is from a 74 Swinger. You can use any Post 73 Mopar as they came with Chrysler Electronic Ignitions. If you are still using a points distributor, you are also going to have to pull the distributor also.
I forgot to add, if your distributor came with points, you can either pick up a post 73” distributor or pull one with the Chrysler Electronic Ignition setup.
My 79 P/U starts right up, sounds strong, runs almost a minute, starts to sputter, then just dies down and out. I've checked out the Ballest, the starter relay, rebuilt the carb,checked fuel supply, changed out carbs with my motor home,and it still acts like I had never opened the hood ,nothing as changed
Have you look into your ignition box? Double check your box and make sure it’s grounded properly as the box uses the base itself to ground. Also double check your voltage regulator on the firewall. Make sure your distributor cap and button aren’t corroded and confirm you are getting “good” spark.
![No Spark Troubleshooting [Mopar Electronic Ignition with Ballast Resistor]](/img/n.gif)
Thank you
I hate that ballast resistor
My pleasure, I’m glad I could be of help.
Now I’m stuck though.
I get power when the key is on.
( spark occurs )
/6 electronic ignition up grade into 68-A-100 van.
But as soon as I twist the key to start
Key switch seems ok ? Worked good before engine swap 170-225.
Got fuel , oil pressure no spark
Double check your wirings leading into your dizzy plug. Also make sure your ignition box is grounded. It grounds through the box to the body/frame.
@@erikolszewski6743 there is a wire that comes off your solenoid that needs to go to the hot side of the "box" to give it power during start.
Your video is correct and simple to follow I did this on my duster 4 months ago and car runs like a dream, so many people dont get it. Well done
Hey bro, I appreciate it!
About to do mine. I was looking for a video like this that explains in video what wires goes where. Not good with electrical names but more visual helps %100.
Let’s you know how it goes. Thanks for the video
One quick question my dart has a 4 point ballast. Do you know how does that get connected? It’s same way one side to the other side? Meaning connecting it from one side to the other ? Sorry hard to explain 😂
Let me look over some wiring schematics
There is a good diagram and explanation on (forabodies.com) 😂 should be “bypassing ballast resistor” it’s an old forum but very informative!
@@TKSpeedShop I will look for it. Thanks a million and let you know what happens. 👍👍
@MrBATHORY3 🫡 look forward to it brother!
Lmao!! Bro I just found this video because I'm working on a 73 D200 I just bought that isn't getting spark. When you started the video by lighting a smoke I fuckin fell OUT how fuckin smooth that was 😂😂 instantly liked the video, and subscribed at 1.5 minutes in when you actually knew what you wee talking about lol great video man, keep it up!
Thanks bro! I really appreciate it! I’m just staying myself 😂 It’s better content than writing a script 😂
@@TKSpeedShop lol absolutely, man! Keep it comin :)
Good simple video! Great job! Great truck!
What happens with the original coil+ wire that is in the points wiring harness?
The original coil wire+ that goes to the dizzy (Points) comes off the ballast. That wire is connected with the junction. Basically, the ballast wires are connected together along with the (green/red) and (blue/yellow) that comes off the ignition box.
What did you pull stuff from because I have lean burn system and need it gone
The ignition box and the harness leading up to the distributor is from a 74 Swinger. You can use any Post 73 Mopar as they came with Chrysler Electronic Ignitions. If you are still using a points distributor, you are also going to have to pull the distributor also.
I forgot to add, if your distributor came with points, you can either pick up a post 73” distributor or pull one with the Chrysler Electronic Ignition setup.
Excellent video. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
So do you buy a 12 volt coil that has the resistor built in?
I had a spare laying around. You can use a accel or pertonix one.
Also make sure the 4-pin box has a good ground, wherever you choose to mount it.
Yup! Body ground is critical
My 79 P/U starts right up, sounds strong, runs almost a minute, starts to sputter, then just dies down and out. I've checked out the Ballest, the starter relay, rebuilt the carb,checked fuel supply, changed out carbs with my motor home,and it still acts like I had never opened the hood ,nothing as changed
Also about that 79P/U it has a 4 prong ballist, and a module distributer. Just found out, that is a wrong set up .
Have you look into your ignition box? Double check your box and make sure it’s grounded properly as the box uses the base itself to ground. Also double check your voltage regulator on the firewall. Make sure your distributor cap and button aren’t corroded and confirm you are getting “good” spark.
Box
Thank you
Engine condition very good.