Thank you Nico! You are the best astrophotography channel out there! You always make extremely in depth tutorials and explain everything super clearly. Thank you!
for anyone deciding autofocus is good enough, remember that it might not be after the moon dims from the eclipse, especially if any wispy clouds come in. its safer to autofocus on the moon when its bright and clear, then turn it off and lock or tape it in place for the rest of the night
@@timkhoo3062 It can, but depends on the focal ratio. At f/2.8, you will likely lose focus from the cold. At f/8, the critical focus zone is much larger, and it's less likely to lose focus from the cold.
That's what I do. Put lens on auto, after achieving focus, put it on manual, tape focus ring to avoid bumping it. Might want to turn off 'IS" as well, USE a remote trigger.
@@NebulaPhotos SO, my question would be what is considered "cold"?? I live west of San Antonio Texas (Kerrville...you may know it from the 2 upcoming SOLAR eclipses in 2023/24). Our highs lately have been in the 90's.... and low around 70 at wake up time (0630). I suspect that before midnight would still be 78+.....
To plan a photo shoot, you should also know where the moon will appear in the sky, not just the time and date. Planetarium programs (Stellarium, etc) give you that information. That way you can plan your logistic site set up where there won't be trees or other problems surprising you.
Awesome video. You do such a good job breaking it down and making it simple. My thoughts on finding the right exposure...get close and then take your whole series of photos (should only take a few minutes) then change exposure and take another series. At the end you'll have a darker set of pictures, medium, and bright and probably some in-between. That way in post you can figure out which is best or do whatever you need, but you'll be covered. Sometimes it's hard to figure out what's perfect in the field on the back of the camera, so just get all of it. Just my $.02.
Thanks for putting this video together. It really helped motivate me to try to photograph it last night. We were lucky with the clouds here in WV too 👏👍
I'm ready. Thanks. I'll be using Nikon D500 with 300mm F4D, Nikon D750 with 200-500 f5.6, and my trusty Olympus EM1X and the 300mm f4 pro. I am Bortle 4, and clear way past midnight PST. Cheers!
Thanks, Nico, for your fantastic work! I own a Leica Q2 (full-frame 47MP) camera and a Fuji X-H1 (APS-C 24.3MP) camera. To my surprise, the Fuji has a smaller pixel pitch of 3.93µm (versus 4.27 µm for the Leica). Does that mean I should have better Milky Way photos with the Fuji Xh1? The Leica comes with the Summilux 28mm f/1.7, and for the Fuji, I use the 14mm f/2.8 lens. Also, from your videos it seems that a lens hood is a must, is that correct? Thanks again.
Both look like great cameras just reading specs online. Between those two options I'd personally probably go for the Leica just because 28mm f/1.7 on full-frame is a terrific lens+camera option for milky way. 24-28mm is my favorite for milky way on full frame.14mm on APS-C is quite a bit wider, and may be better for some shots. So hard to pick. The pixel size is close enough that I don't think that should be the deciding factor. Lens hoods are useful for two reasons: 1. helps prevent stray light from terrestrial sources getting in the shot 2. offers some dew protection, but for heavy dew, you will want a heater strip If neither of those are a concern, then a lens hood isn't necessary.
I live near Berlin in Germany and we only going to see it partialy when it slowly sets and when its setting its going to get total, which is a little shame for us, nonetheless its still photogenic and i thank you for your Tipps. Greeetings!
buen video, no conocia estas paginas para ver el clima local. Acá en Chile entramos en Invierno y estas noches se encuentran desde las 23:00 hrs con mucha nube. Segun el pronostico, desde el 14 al 16 habra noche clara, espero que sea asi. Saludos y gracias por el video.
Got to witness the Lunar eclipse in May last year here in eastern Australia, just like you say Nico, there is just something truly surreal and amazing about looking up at a full moon with a full sky of stars. My advise would be to get as many cameras as you can pointing at it, provided you can be largely hands off to enjoy the experience. Definitely, 100% practice before the event. I had my Sony a7R hooked up to a small MAK scope and focus looked perfect, but I think the shutter slap was causing some vibration causing blur. Luckily I had 2 other cameras going.
Thanks for all the tips Nico, you're great at explaining! I'm in Buenos Aires, Argentina, and it's the first Lunar eclipse I will photograph. I will be using a Sky-Watcher 150/750 and a Nikon d3300. Would love to get a picture with the stars behind so this time I think I'll go with that plan. Clear skies!
Great tips! The only problem I think for most of us is not having any kind of movement tracker. So, a shot longer than 1 sec may come out blurry. But your previous shot of the eclipse which you showed here is epic! Congrats!
That is great info and good recommendations. YES, please do a follow up video on how to stack and process the images. I didn't know you could stack images of the moon except from a video and using something like regiStax. I plan on taking an image every 3 minutes or so before totality, so that I can make a composite of the phases. But during totality, I'd like to do as you did, and take a bunch of 1 second shots and stack them for more detail. Thanks in advance.
What will mark the maximum of the total lunar eclipse of the Moon at 01:11 am on 05/16/2022, here in Rio de Janeiro, will be the occultation of the 8.7-magnitude HIP 75830 star near the Schickard crater (rabbit's tail) followed by the appearance of a 9.9-magnitude star near the Langrenus (rabbit's ear) crater. Check Stellarium before your registration.
highly sugest hdr photography for the pre and post totality phase of the eclipse, the light parts of the moon may be overexposed while the dark parts may be underesposed.
Useful stuff 👍 I hope I will get to see a blood moon some time in the following years, because the last 2 or 3 lunar eclipses that have happened, including this one, were not visible from my location.
Thanks pal, nice video. I wish I knew about photography and am learning through drones by myself. I think I might do a course on lenses,exposure, everything really as I know not much. 👍😃🏴
I shot the eclipse on May 15th in NY. Unfortunately, clouds were coming and going and the total eclipse was clouded out. I did get a good shot with the moon 90% eclipsed but found I had to over expose the moon in order to bring out the red tint, which seems a little counter intuitive. The downside was the sliver of the moon not eclipsed was blown out. The upside was it did help make my foreground element more visible and the red tint was very present and vibrant. Not sure if this was others experience. I discovered this because I was shooting a mirrorless, digital camera and could see what was happening real time. It was a great outing- even though I was deprived the a good photo of the full eclipse. You take what nature gives you. Thanks for the video.
Currently looking like very cloudy for most of the East Coast, but sometimes the models change in 48 hours, so cross your fingers for some unexpected change to the forecast! Even if it's mostly/partially cloudy, definitely get out there as you may be able to get a really cool shot of the blood moon peaking though a break in the clouds.
If you want some stars around the moon and a lot of details of our satellite at the same time, a good idea is to use a 300mm (or bigger until 600mm) lens with multiple 1s exposures for stacking.
You can go bigger than that. I used an EdgeHD 11 with the reducer for about 2000mm and the results were spectacular (IMHO). photos.imageevent.com/sipphoto/samplepictures/5D_57776.jpg
Greetings from Jamaica on May 16, 2022. Lastnight was very very cloudy. Did manage to get a few shots. Maybe my settings weren't the best as my iso was about 1600 and SS of 1/3". Aperture was f6.3... Maybe I'll go for longer SS next time and Use iOptron tracker
Thanks for the tips Nico! Imagine my surprise when in January I read it'll be a full moon eclipse on my birthday 😅 Now I have the perfect excuse to go out on a trip and shoot it. Might just sumble and be a bit tipsy after that's done but it'll be fun ...
I’m so sad because I don’t even know if I’ll be able to see it because where I live in New York right now there’s a really big overcast plus I only have a 50 1.2 lens and the kit lens so does that mean I won’t be able to Get a good picture of the moon because of my equipment or might I get lucky I am going to try and see what happens but do you have any suggestions or it’s inevitable that I’ll just have to keep the picture in my mind of what I see you tonight 🙈 only thank you so much in advance!
Definitely get out there and see if you can spot it through breaks in the clouds. Looks like the weather front might move through and give us a clearing at 12:30am right towards the end of totality. With your 50mm, you should still be able to resolve some detail, and hopefully some stars around the moon with a long exposure (5 seconds)
I don't have enough experience in such filming. I usually photograph the moon with settings f=8, 1/125, ISO-200. I have never been able to capture a clear moon and stars together at once, and I have never been able to capture the moon and clouds in one photo. I had to choose either the moon or the clouds. What you are doing is magical!
Yes, it adds a little complexity since you would have to sort the bracketed files (one stack for the stars, one for the moon), but it may be worth the extra effort.
Gr8 and informative video. I was wondering abt stacking images, should i take like 40 images in different exposures (over, under, right) + changing the focus? Or it’s enough to snap the same photo like 40 times and then stuck them? I have no tracking device so i think I can’t take pics with exposure longer than 1s right? The pic u showed with clouds, how did u managed to get the moon big and get the clouds at the same time? What was your focal length?
For totality: 40 pics with all the same settings and focus. The reason to change exposure setting and shoot over/under would be for partial phases. Focus is the same for all, but double check it throughout night to make sure you are still in focus. Clouds/eclipse shot was at 464mm on full frame
question, when its moon rise, i also see a red moon... isnt that kind of the same as a moon eclipse? Im in europe so im missing out on this event, just hoping i dont miss a lot because i have seen a lot of red moons in the morning or evening low to the ground
To get a high resolution picture of the moon, do I just fire off a bunch of properly exposed and focused shots. Then just run them through deep sky stacker? I've been shooting lunar eclipses since early 2000's. January 2019, I decided to use. My Canon 5d Mk IV, on my staradventurer, and use it's onboard time-lapse video mode. Changed exposure settings at mid-eclipse from exposing for full, to "blood red", then when past halfway back to full, moon settings. Clear all day, bitter cold 3 degrees F! When eclipse started, puffy clouds came through for entire eclipse, and miraculously left at end. The gods....? I messed up. I had this rig on my deck, and still camera on solid ground, DAH. bounced every time I walked across it. Want to do same for this one. Supposed to be cloudy though. All on tera ferma!
Thank you, Nico! I have had this event on my calendar for a couple of weeks now, and was worried that I was not going to be able to get a decent picture for it. Unfortunately, it’s looking cloudy, but I’m hoping that the weather changes in time
The color of the Moon during a total lunar eclipse is *not* the result of differential refraction as stated in the video. It is the result of differential scattering.
Well no clouds!It occurs at 0228 for me and full eclipse is just after it's set but I'm not deterred by the ungodly hour as I'll take my sleeping bag up a localish mountain with an unobstructed view west.
I live at 68.3°N no luck seeing this and likely any eclipses up here. I just looked at my location and the next total lunar eclipse that I can see is Nov 7-8, 2022, but it'll likely be -25°C outside.
The only thing to keep in mind with that plan is you will need to stop and change the settings if you plan to capture both the partial and total phases as they will require different exposure settings. The moon is much dimmer during totality
No, you'd want to use something specifically designed to stack lunar images like: Autostakkert www.autostakkert.com/ You might also want to double-stack since the moon and stars move at different rates. I'll likely do a processing video after the event if I get clear weather.
I live in France and I tried to get a nice photo of the phase where the moon was orange red was a 6:00 AM so I had to wake up early, mind that I don't have a vehicle so this morning I get baited by so many clouds couldn't take any photos the 15th I took a photo of the moon while It was yellowish It was nice but I needed more
My last blood moon photo attempt was blurred from a too long of an exposure. I underestimated how dim the moon would become and failed to consider or calculate the maximum shutter speed for my telephoto lens. I won't be using a star tracker. Is the same "sharp star" formula that I utilize for Milky Way photographs appropriate for the moon (of course entering the longer focal length)? I am thinking about using Nikon D7500 (crop factor 1.5) 300mm lens (full frame equivalent 450mm) Aperture f/5.6 Shutter speed = 1/2.5sec = 0.40sec Will theses settings effectively eliminate blurry moon-trails?
He utilizado Canon Eos RA con RF 800 mm, para esos eclipses, el de 2020 y noviembre 2021. Tanto apilado de fotografía como video un buen resultado. Si esta muy despejado agregaría la extensión 1.4x. Saludos desde Quetzaltenango, tierras altas, Guatemala. Spanish, excuseme.
Without a tracking mechanism, its is v hard because the moon is (obviously) moving. The equipment and settings will need to be much faster and there's a chance, therefore, that you'll end up with a very grainy image. I've never used a tracking mechanism, so are they easy to set up? Great video, Nico. Thanks.
Hi Peter, fairly easy, you just need a clear view of Polaris to align them. You should be okay bringing up the ISO and using shorter exposures, especially if you stack your photos.
Hard to say on settings exactly since every eclipse is different, but generally without a tracker, you would want to go higher ISO because you will limit exposure time to avoid blur. Yes, Autostakkert is what I'd recommend for stacking
Does ISO matter that much in the 100-1600 range with modern DSLRs (I use Canon 700D and RP)? I learned photography with film cameras, where you used the lowest ISO film possible to get finer detail and less grain. Not sure that applies anymore for current DSLRs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Great videos Nico! Dr B from Manitoba, Canada 🇨🇦
Right, it doesn't matter as much and digital ISO (gain multiplier) isn't very similar to film ISO (film sensitivity). For lunar photography, especially a single exposure, you could use ISO 100. For deep sky photography, I typically suggest ISO800 or higher, especially with Canon cameras, for reasons that are a bit too complex for a youtube comment, but I've talked a little bit about in some of my longer videos (has to do with readout noise and its impact when stacking many exposures).
So, will the focus of the moon change with the amount of light on the moon? As for the photos of eclipses, I can attest to the fact that the 2017 eclipse looks nothing in photos like what I saw with my eyes. It looks waaaaay more impressive with your eyes. But back on subject, so I get that the dimmer the moon gets, the longer exposure you can go. But, since I am in a city, would the dimming of the moon get overtaken by the light pollution? I'm about bortle 7, Raleigh NC. I can get to a bortle 4 rather easy, but is it worth it to go to a darker site, or is the light pollution not an issue?
For the moon itself, light pollution will not be an issue even when it is eclipsed. If you want to include the stars, it becomes a bigger concern, but I shot the photo in the video from a Bortle 8 sky so it's definitely possible to get something presentable for this event from the city. And focus does not change with the different phases. You should still occasionally check focus, because it can change with changing ambient air temperature (glass contracts when it gets colder).
Some kind of tracker or tracking mount, a modified dslr or dedicated astro camera, and a telescope or camera lens, would be the minimum stuff needed. Narrowband filters or a dual narrowband filter like the L-eNhance would be recommended.
@@NebulaPhotos Great! Thank you for the info. I'm pretty sure I can get to a bortle 4, maybe a bortle 3. Do you think the WO Redcat 51 would be able to image it well enough to make a poster size print? I think it is small enough to use on a Star Adventurer 2i and my T3i (will probably do either the LP2 removal or full spectrum) and maybe a light pollution filter. I promised my 3 yr old granddaughter that I would image that for her since she was born with a congenital heart defect. Would I even need a light pollution filter in a Bortle 4? Which bortle number makes a light pollution filter a waste of money?
My stacked images are quite blurry. I shot 40 frames, and each exposure is 1s. Each sub is sharp. After stacking in DSS, the moon is blurry. Update: Autostakker solved the problem. Stacked image is much cleaner than individual shot.
I have put day off on May 15. NOW I HOPE ITS NOT CLOUDY. Seems like my area is at level 4 : Some of the total phase is visible. Misses part of total, partial & penumbral phases. Got a 10 inch dobsonian and see if I can observe. Got a lunar cam as well but I have not tested it yet. Edit: Also you talking about bloodmoon and the video makes you look a bit pale like a vampire lmao
back in 2017 when we had the total solar eclipse I didn't have a very large lens I just had a 58 mm lens so what I did was I took some of those 3D glasses the blue and white ones right and I folded them together I put them in front of the lens of my camera and I zoomed in and got my focus right in place I did not look through the lens I just looked up in the sky kind of weird the sunlight I knew where the sunlight was going to be I move the camera over and I took some pictures just in case because I don't want to burn my eyeballs out so I did get some pictures of that I have it saved to my camera and it is absolutely stunning and like I said I didn't have a very far reaching lens so it was a very small Dot but it's still big enough to see what was going on it was magnificent now I do have a bigger lens for this and I do plan on getting myself I think it's the 750 mm to 1,000 mm lens or maybe it's 500 to 1000 I'm not sure and I'm going to be ready for the next one because yes I am all about getting those good shots
Also during total if using a wide lens you will be able to capture the Milky Way to the left, yes the moon will be real small but at say 35mm you will get the galactic center and a closeup of Pegasus. just some thing extra to plan and play with.
I really enjoyed shooting last year's Super Flower Blood Moon on May 25th. Here is what I came up with. I hope you enjoy it too: th-cam.com/video/DBpNqNXy32c/w-d-xo.html
I live in Sweden and got to see the moon turning red just before set!
Thank you Nico! You are the best astrophotography channel out there! You always make extremely in depth tutorials and explain everything super clearly. Thank you!
for anyone deciding autofocus is good enough, remember that it might not be after the moon dims from the eclipse, especially if any wispy clouds come in. its safer to autofocus on the moon when its bright and clear, then turn it off and lock or tape it in place for the rest of the night
Good tip!
won’t the focus point change throughout the night if it gets colder?
@@timkhoo3062 It can, but depends on the focal ratio. At f/2.8, you will likely lose focus from the cold. At f/8, the critical focus zone is much larger, and it's less likely to lose focus from the cold.
That's what I do. Put lens on auto, after achieving focus, put it on manual, tape focus ring to avoid bumping it. Might want to turn off 'IS" as well, USE a remote trigger.
@@NebulaPhotos SO, my question would be what is considered "cold"?? I live west of San Antonio Texas (Kerrville...you may know it from the 2 upcoming SOLAR eclipses in 2023/24). Our highs lately have been in the 90's.... and low around 70 at wake up time (0630). I suspect that before midnight would still be 78+.....
To plan a photo shoot, you should also know where the moon will appear in the sky, not just the time and date. Planetarium programs (Stellarium, etc) give you that information. That way you can plan your logistic site set up where there won't be trees or other problems surprising you.
Good tip!
Exactly what I was thinking!
Great tips Nico. It starts at 2.30 over the pond in Ireland .Alarm check thermos flask check ! clear skies.
Wish I had found this yesterday, but I hope to use it in November for the second lunar eclipse.
Certainly going to have to give this a go now - thanks for the insight once again. Lets hope for clear skies.
Awesome video. You do such a good job breaking it down and making it simple. My thoughts on finding the right exposure...get close and then take your whole series of photos (should only take a few minutes) then change exposure and take another series. At the end you'll have a darker set of pictures, medium, and bright and probably some in-between. That way in post you can figure out which is best or do whatever you need, but you'll be covered. Sometimes it's hard to figure out what's perfect in the field on the back of the camera, so just get all of it. Just my $.02.
Yes, very good advice!
Thanks for putting this video together. It really helped motivate me to try to photograph it last night. We were lucky with the clouds here in WV too 👏👍
I'm ready. Thanks. I'll be using Nikon D500 with 300mm F4D, Nikon D750 with 200-500 f5.6, and my trusty Olympus EM1X and the 300mm f4 pro. I am Bortle 4, and clear way past midnight PST. Cheers!
Thank you....
i seen this a whole day too late
This is an amazing video, I hope that the weather cooperates! Thank you for the tips and that it is a blood moon on top of it!
Thanks, Nico, for your fantastic work! I own a Leica Q2 (full-frame 47MP) camera and a Fuji X-H1 (APS-C 24.3MP) camera. To my surprise, the Fuji has a smaller pixel pitch of 3.93µm (versus 4.27 µm for the Leica). Does that mean I should have better Milky Way photos with the Fuji Xh1? The Leica comes with the Summilux 28mm f/1.7, and for the Fuji, I use the 14mm f/2.8 lens. Also, from your videos it seems that a lens hood is a must, is that correct? Thanks again.
Both look like great cameras just reading specs online. Between those two options I'd personally probably go for the Leica just because 28mm f/1.7 on full-frame is a terrific lens+camera option for milky way. 24-28mm is my favorite for milky way on full frame.14mm on APS-C is quite a bit wider, and may be better for some shots. So hard to pick. The pixel size is close enough that I don't think that should be the deciding factor.
Lens hoods are useful for two reasons:
1. helps prevent stray light from terrestrial sources getting in the shot
2. offers some dew protection, but for heavy dew, you will want a heater strip
If neither of those are a concern, then a lens hood isn't necessary.
6.11am Monday morning here in Spain. Going to be pushing my 13 yr old Nikon and even older 35-80mm F4-5.6 to the limits again. Cheers mate.
I live near Berlin in Germany and we only going to see it partialy when it slowly sets and when its setting its going to get total, which is a little shame for us, nonetheless its still photogenic and i thank you for your Tipps. Greeetings!
buen video, no conocia estas paginas para ver el clima local. Acá en Chile entramos en Invierno y estas noches se encuentran desde las 23:00 hrs con mucha nube. Segun el pronostico, desde el 14 al 16 habra noche clara, espero que sea asi. Saludos y gracias por el video.
Got to witness the Lunar eclipse in May last year here in eastern Australia, just like you say Nico, there is just something truly surreal and amazing about looking up at a full moon with a full sky of stars. My advise would be to get as many cameras as you can pointing at it, provided you can be largely hands off to enjoy the experience. Definitely, 100% practice before the event. I had my Sony a7R hooked up to a small MAK scope and focus looked perfect, but I think the shutter slap was causing some vibration causing blur. Luckily I had 2 other cameras going.
Saw the November one tons of stars with a red moon with a little sliver left over
Thanks for all the tips Nico, you're great at explaining! I'm in Buenos Aires, Argentina, and it's the first Lunar eclipse I will photograph. I will be using a Sky-Watcher 150/750 and a Nikon d3300. Would love to get a picture with the stars behind so this time I think I'll go with that plan. Clear skies!
Thank you so much. :)
Great tips! The only problem I think for most of us is not having any kind of movement tracker. So, a shot longer than 1 sec may come out blurry. But your previous shot of the eclipse which you showed here is epic! Congrats!
I thought tips were for newbies and amateurs with simple gear. Yours is awesome but not amateur. First time in this channel. Thank you for the video.
That is great info and good recommendations.
YES, please do a follow up video on how to stack and process the images. I didn't know you could stack images of the moon except from a video and using something like regiStax.
I plan on taking an image every 3 minutes or so before totality, so that I can make a composite of the phases. But during totality, I'd like to do as you did, and take a bunch of 1 second shots and stack them for more detail.
Thanks in advance.
What will mark the maximum of the total lunar eclipse of the Moon at 01:11 am on 05/16/2022, here in Rio de Janeiro, will be the occultation of the 8.7-magnitude HIP 75830 star near the Schickard crater (rabbit's tail) followed by the appearance of a 9.9-magnitude star near the Langrenus (rabbit's ear) crater. Check Stellarium before your registration.
Got any tips for moving the clouds?🤔
I wish!
highly sugest hdr photography for the pre and post totality phase of the eclipse, the light parts of the moon may be overexposed while the dark parts may be underesposed.
Useful stuff 👍
I hope I will get to see a blood moon some time in the following years, because the last 2 or 3 lunar eclipses that have happened, including this one, were not visible from my location.
very informative thank you!
Thanks pal, nice video. I wish I knew about photography and am learning through drones by myself. I think I might do a course on lenses,exposure, everything really as I know not much. 👍😃🏴
I shot the eclipse on May 15th in NY. Unfortunately, clouds were coming and going and the total eclipse was clouded out. I did get a good shot with the moon 90% eclipsed but found I had to over expose the moon in order to bring out the red tint, which seems a little counter intuitive. The downside was the sliver of the moon not eclipsed was blown out. The upside was it did help make my foreground element more visible and the red tint was very present and vibrant. Not sure if this was others experience. I discovered this because I was shooting a mirrorless, digital camera and could see what was happening real time. It was a great outing- even though I was deprived the a good photo of the full eclipse. You take what nature gives you. Thanks for the video.
oh my god i needed this since it happens on my birthday!
Hi Nico, love your channel. Owing to the bad weather over the weekend, any tips on finding sites where blood moon can be visible on the east coast.
Currently looking like very cloudy for most of the East Coast, but sometimes the models change in 48 hours, so cross your fingers for some unexpected change to the forecast! Even if it's mostly/partially cloudy, definitely get out there as you may be able to get a really cool shot of the blood moon peaking though a break in the clouds.
If you want some stars around the moon and a lot of details of our satellite at the same time, a good idea is to use a 300mm (or bigger until 600mm) lens with multiple 1s exposures for stacking.
You can go bigger than that. I used an EdgeHD 11 with the reducer for about 2000mm and the results were spectacular (IMHO). photos.imageevent.com/sipphoto/samplepictures/5D_57776.jpg
Looks like i'm going to miss this one also. I live in Finland and the moon will be below the horizon.
Great video..thanks.
Perfect video. What stacking program is best for lunar images
Autostakkert www.autostakkert.com/
With my astro modified DSLR I get a blood moon every night 🤣. Joking apart, good info Nico thanks 👍.
Greetings from Jamaica on May 16, 2022. Lastnight was very very cloudy. Did manage to get a few shots. Maybe my settings weren't the best as my iso was about 1600 and SS of 1/3". Aperture was f6.3...
Maybe I'll go for longer SS next time and Use iOptron tracker
Could I use a spotting scope with camera for the eclipes
Yes, that can work
@@NebulaPhotos Thank you
Thanks for the tips Nico!
Imagine my surprise when in January I read it'll be a full moon eclipse on my birthday 😅
Now I have the perfect excuse to go out on a trip and shoot it. Might just sumble and be a bit tipsy after that's done but it'll be fun ...
I’m so sad because I don’t even know if I’ll be able to see it because where I live in New York right now there’s a really big overcast plus I only have a 50 1.2 lens and the kit lens so does that mean I won’t be able to Get a good picture of the moon because of my equipment or might I get lucky I am going to try and see what happens but do you have any suggestions or it’s inevitable that I’ll just have to keep the picture in my mind of what I see you tonight 🙈 only thank you so much in advance!
Definitely get out there and see if you can spot it through breaks in the clouds. Looks like the weather front might move through and give us a clearing at 12:30am right towards the end of totality. With your 50mm, you should still be able to resolve some detail, and hopefully some stars around the moon with a long exposure (5 seconds)
Leave everything aside and first make a video on “hair care tips”….I really need that😂😂
I don't have enough experience in such filming. I usually photograph the moon with settings f=8, 1/125, ISO-200. I have never been able to capture a clear moon and stars together at once, and I have never been able to capture the moon and clouds in one photo. I had to choose either the moon or the clouds. What you are doing is magical!
It's only possible during a total eclipse!
Can you bracket a bit to get a combo of good detail in the moon but yet get the stars to show in a layers technique?
Yes, it adds a little complexity since you would have to sort the bracketed files (one stack for the stars, one for the moon), but it may be worth the extra effort.
@@NebulaPhotos OK! I'll give it a try. I'll let you know how it turns out.
@@onyourmarkphoto I would be curious too . Cheers!
I can't wait to see it. I have the Canon SX70 Powershot HS.
Great video! Thank you. What program did you use to stack your images?
Today?? Damn I’m so lucky I found this video on time 😂😂😂
Gr8 and informative video. I was wondering abt stacking images, should i take like 40 images in different exposures (over, under, right) + changing the focus? Or it’s enough to snap the same photo like 40 times and then stuck them?
I have no tracking device so i think I can’t take pics with exposure longer than 1s right?
The pic u showed with clouds, how did u managed to get the moon big and get the clouds at the same time? What was your focal length?
For totality: 40 pics with all the same settings and focus.
The reason to change exposure setting and shoot over/under would be for partial phases.
Focus is the same for all, but double check it throughout night to make sure you are still in focus.
Clouds/eclipse shot was at 464mm on full frame
Tnx alot, I appreciate that
Watching objects live is priceless! So many emotions when you see it on your own eyes, especially such rear event)
Thank you for you videos as always!
question, when its moon rise, i also see a red moon... isnt that kind of the same as a moon eclipse? Im in europe so im missing out on this event, just hoping i dont miss a lot because i have seen a lot of red moons in the morning or evening low to the ground
Some great Tips, Unfortunately The Eclipse Wont Be Visible Where I live. But I hope to see the One on 8th November!
clear sky's...Scotland...hmmm...I have tagged this on my calendar, would love it to happen
When ?? Will it be seen .. ?? Will we be able to see it in UK .
Check out link in description. Looks like the total eclipse part starts at 4:30am Monday morning in London
Good luck. Here you can predict the cloud coverage by the celestial events.
To get a high resolution picture of the moon, do I just fire off a bunch of properly exposed and focused shots. Then just run them through deep sky stacker?
I've been shooting lunar eclipses since early 2000's. January 2019, I decided to use. My Canon 5d Mk IV, on my staradventurer, and use it's onboard time-lapse video mode. Changed exposure settings at mid-eclipse from exposing for full, to "blood red", then when past halfway back to full, moon settings. Clear all day, bitter cold 3 degrees F! When eclipse started, puffy clouds came through for entire eclipse, and miraculously left at end. The gods....? I messed up. I had this rig on my deck, and still camera on solid ground, DAH. bounced every time I walked across it. Want to do same for this one. Supposed to be cloudy though. All on tera ferma!
Correct except instead of DeepSkyStacker, use Autostakkert
And just when I thought I knew of all the stacking software. Thanks
I struggled big rime trying to find the sweet spot with my manual focus. Not sure why I found it to be the most difficult thing of the night?
Please make a video on how to stack moon pictures for blood moon
Thank you, Nico! I have had this event on my calendar for a couple of weeks now, and was worried that I was not going to be able to get a decent picture for it. Unfortunately, it’s looking cloudy, but I’m hoping that the weather changes in time
Is a modified camera suitable for this, or is the moon too dark, or does the reddish color exaggerate too much?
The color of the Moon during a total lunar eclipse is *not* the result of differential refraction as stated in the video. It is the result of differential scattering.
Good catch, thanks for the correction
I just subscribed.
Could you do a video on how that lens does with deep sky astro. Been wondering if they'll work with that.
Well no clouds!It occurs at 0228 for me and full eclipse is just after it's set but I'm not deterred by the ungodly hour as I'll take my sleeping bag up a localish mountain with an unobstructed view west.
Cool, thanks much 🤘🏻 have you done a collab with Nick Carver 😁
I live at 68.3°N no luck seeing this and likely any eclipses up here. I just looked at my location and the next total lunar eclipse that I can see is Nov 7-8, 2022, but it'll likely be -25°C outside.
Is this happening in Australia as well?
I live in Brazil, and perfectly located for this lunar eclipse. I am planning on doing one shot at each 10 secs and make a time lapse. Hope it works.
The only thing to keep in mind with that plan is you will need to stop and change the settings if you plan to capture both the partial and total phases as they will require different exposure settings. The moon is much dimmer during totality
@@NebulaPhotos thanks Nico. I will keep that in mind. I will have to figure out what is the best setting for each phase on the fly.
can I use binoculars with an adapter and a iPhone I hope this doesn’t sound silly
Yes, try it!
Thanks
Congratulations Niko very useful video everyone to shoot the moon on 15-16 😀😀😀😀😀
how are you stacking the completed images? Would an astro stacking software like Starry Sky Stacker work for something like this?
No, you'd want to use something specifically designed to stack lunar images like: Autostakkert www.autostakkert.com/ You might also want to double-stack since the moon and stars move at different rates. I'll likely do a processing video after the event if I get clear weather.
@@NebulaPhotos Awesome! Appreciate the insight!
I live in France and I tried to get a nice photo of the phase where the moon was orange red was a 6:00 AM so I had to wake up early, mind that I don't have a vehicle so this morning I get baited by so many clouds couldn't take any photos the 15th I took a photo of the moon while It was yellowish It was nice but I needed more
My last blood moon photo attempt was blurred from a too long of an exposure. I underestimated how dim the moon would become and failed to consider or calculate the maximum shutter speed for my telephoto lens. I won't be using a star tracker. Is the same "sharp star" formula that I utilize for Milky Way photographs appropriate for the moon (of course entering the longer focal length)?
I am thinking about using
Nikon D7500 (crop factor 1.5)
300mm lens (full frame equivalent 450mm)
Aperture f/5.6
Shutter speed = 1/2.5sec = 0.40sec
Will theses settings effectively eliminate blurry moon-trails?
Good video, but doesn’t it happen on may 16th? (Also I live in Florida)
It's May 15-16th. Sunday night through Monday morning
Ooooh, thank you
Help, it’s May 15 and it is cloudy
So sad
Last night, it was raining here and as usual, the clouds got in the way.
DRAT!
What tracker are u using again ?
Sky-watcher Star Adventurer 2i
What do you recommend for white balance?
With a stock camera: 'daylight'. With a modded camera: 'custom' set with a white/gray card on a sunny, clear day
He utilizado Canon Eos RA con RF 800 mm, para esos eclipses, el de 2020 y noviembre 2021. Tanto apilado de fotografía como video un buen resultado. Si esta muy despejado agregaría la extensión 1.4x. Saludos desde Quetzaltenango, tierras altas, Guatemala. Spanish, excuseme.
👍🏻 for a follow up video.
In about an hour and a half of this coment posting is the 2022 eclipse im all set!
What a coincidence! I've been spotting for locations all day.
Without a tracking mechanism, its is v hard because the moon is (obviously) moving. The equipment and settings will need to be much faster and there's a chance, therefore, that you'll end up with a very grainy image. I've never used a tracking mechanism, so are they easy to set up?
Great video, Nico. Thanks.
Hi Peter, fairly easy, you just need a clear view of Polaris to align them. You should be okay bringing up the ISO and using shorter exposures, especially if you stack your photos.
What would be the recommendation on the settings (Canon EOS 700D) if shooting without a tracker? Can those pictures also be stacked by autostakkert?
Hard to say on settings exactly since every eclipse is different, but generally without a tracker, you would want to go higher ISO because you will limit exposure time to avoid blur. Yes, Autostakkert is what I'd recommend for stacking
Does ISO matter that much in the 100-1600 range with modern DSLRs (I use Canon 700D and RP)? I learned photography with film cameras, where you used the lowest ISO film possible to get finer detail and less grain. Not sure that applies anymore for current DSLRs. Would appreciate your thoughts. Great videos Nico! Dr B from Manitoba, Canada 🇨🇦
Right, it doesn't matter as much and digital ISO (gain multiplier) isn't very similar to film ISO (film sensitivity). For lunar photography, especially a single exposure, you could use ISO 100. For deep sky photography, I typically suggest ISO800 or higher, especially with Canon cameras, for reasons that are a bit too complex for a youtube comment, but I've talked a little bit about in some of my longer videos (has to do with readout noise and its impact when stacking many exposures).
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks Nico. Very helpful.
I'm watching this video, after capturing the eclipse... Right now, the eclipse is pulling away, and I'm still filming it...
hi nico
can you tell me a telescope which can shoot good views of planets and dso
let the budget be around 350$
Doesn't exist. Pick one: planets or DSOs.
@@NebulaPhotos dso
If you have a small mount go for Svbony SV503 70mm. If you have a large mount, you could get a cheap 6" f/4 Newtonian and coma corrector.
And if you don't have a mount, don't get a telescope, spend the money on a fast lens instead
@@NebulaPhotos thanks nico
Its gonna be cloudy where i live 😐
Just saw it yesterday
There is no Canon R8 mirrorless but otherwise great video
Ah, misheard me. Canon Ra, it's the astro version of the R they made for 2 years (2019-2021). I've reviewed it on the channel if interested.
@@NebulaPhotos oops, my bad...
So, will the focus of the moon change with the amount of light on the moon? As for the photos of eclipses, I can attest to the fact that the 2017 eclipse looks nothing in photos like what I saw with my eyes. It looks waaaaay more impressive with your eyes. But back on subject, so I get that the dimmer the moon gets, the longer exposure you can go. But, since I am in a city, would the dimming of the moon get overtaken by the light pollution? I'm about bortle 7, Raleigh NC. I can get to a bortle 4 rather easy, but is it worth it to go to a darker site, or is the light pollution not an issue?
For the moon itself, light pollution will not be an issue even when it is eclipsed. If you want to include the stars, it becomes a bigger concern, but I shot the photo in the video from a Bortle 8 sky so it's definitely possible to get something presentable for this event from the city.
And focus does not change with the different phases. You should still occasionally check focus, because it can change with changing ambient air temperature (glass contracts when it gets colder).
@@NebulaPhotos thanks
@@NebulaPhotos real quick, off topic - what equipment would I need to image the Heart and Soul Nebula?
Some kind of tracker or tracking mount, a modified dslr or dedicated astro camera, and a telescope or camera lens, would be the minimum stuff needed. Narrowband filters or a dual narrowband filter like the L-eNhance would be recommended.
@@NebulaPhotos Great! Thank you for the info. I'm pretty sure I can get to a bortle 4, maybe a bortle 3. Do you think the WO Redcat 51 would be able to image it well enough to make a poster size print? I think it is small enough to use on a Star Adventurer 2i and my T3i (will probably do either the LP2 removal or full spectrum) and maybe a light pollution filter.
I promised my 3 yr old granddaughter that I would image that for her since she was born with a congenital heart defect. Would I even need a light pollution filter in a Bortle 4? Which bortle number makes a light pollution filter a waste of money?
My stacked images are quite blurry. I shot 40 frames, and each exposure is 1s. Each sub is sharp. After stacking in DSS, the moon is blurry. Update: Autostakker solved the problem. Stacked image is much cleaner than individual shot.
It will be below the horizon for me.. Im depressed now
First tip: Don't live in Texas where every major astronomical event is obscured by clouds. Every. Single. Time.
I have put day off on May 15. NOW I HOPE ITS NOT CLOUDY.
Seems like my area is at level 4 : Some of the total phase is visible. Misses part of total, partial & penumbral phases.
Got a 10 inch dobsonian and see if I can observe. Got a lunar cam as well but I have not tested it yet.
Edit: Also you talking about bloodmoon and the video makes you look a bit pale like a vampire lmao
I hope weather behaves this time like it did last time. I should get a better photo than last time as long as the clouds stay away.
We weren't so lucky. It was raining....Drat.....
That color makes you pretty scary looking 😆
Yeah, was using a camera I'm not used to, and messed up the settings 🤡
Vampire Nico... 😂 Talking about the "blood moon" 👀
@@NebulaPhotos Fits the theme tho.
Here I Holland we don't get a blood moon. I hope it ever happens
back in 2017 when we had the total solar eclipse I didn't have a very large lens I just had a 58 mm lens so what I did was I took some of those 3D glasses the blue and white ones right and I folded them together I put them in front of the lens of my camera and I zoomed in and got my focus right in place I did not look through the lens I just looked up in the sky kind of weird the sunlight I knew where the sunlight was going to be I move the camera over and I took some pictures just in case because I don't want to burn my eyeballs out so I did get some pictures of that I have it saved to my camera and it is absolutely stunning and like I said I didn't have a very far reaching lens so it was a very small Dot but it's still big enough to see what was going on it was magnificent now I do have a bigger lens for this and I do plan on getting myself I think it's the 750 mm to 1,000 mm lens or maybe it's 500 to 1000 I'm not sure and I'm going to be ready for the next one because yes I am all about getting those good shots
Also during total if using a wide lens you will be able to capture the Milky Way to the left, yes the moon will be real small but at say 35mm you will get the galactic center and a closeup of Pegasus. just some thing extra to plan and play with.
Today is the day.
I really enjoyed shooting last year's Super Flower Blood Moon on May 25th. Here is what I came up with. I hope you enjoy it too: th-cam.com/video/DBpNqNXy32c/w-d-xo.html