I love your enthusiasm and lightheartedness. It seems like you value the craft but don’t feel everything is “precious.” First video I’ve seen of yours and I look forward to my impending backlog binge! 🤣
I noticed with your narrow chisel the bevel is down, but with curved chisel the bevel is up by design. That could possibly effect the cutting efficiency.
F-holes: I watched the Canadian Luthier, Twoodford, take the back off a 1930's Martin Archtop acoustic guitar. Instead of a carved top Martin used a traditional Flattop guitar top and forced it into an arch with the bracing. I noticed that the F-holes in that guitar were not complete "F"s. I assume the reason for that is the top would have tried to go in every direction but the right way if they had cut complete "F"s into it.
toodfrd is a true craftsman. I always catch the latest from that channel. His style is the polar opposite of Jerry, and the path to completion is very different, but both guys are exceptional in the final product -- which is what really counts. Also, I don't think that toodfrd has a working, many-acre farm to keep going.
You know why they are called F holes rite .and not its not cause its shaped like an F . A luther forcing that arch top you can here him 6 blocks radius .. $%=/ . $^_= $%=% .. lol
I also follow Ted Woodford and find his approach to guitar repair very refreshing but perhaps a bit more parochial than Jerry's. The video that was referred to here is available at th-cam.com/video/65s7h_e4P7w/w-d-xo.html
You should build wooden model airplanes you would still be woodworking but building something entirely for recreation with your skill they my never land
Love her voice, got that bluegrass vibe. Beautiful. Is she doing the backup harmony?. Sounds great . that's going to be a beautiful instrument. God speed
Jerry are you getting old like me 🤪 I swear I try to do too much and either I was better at it when I was younger or I think I was better than I was 😂 What f holes 🤔 oh yeah !
Hello Jerry! Take a look at the Bourgeois Top Voicing Demonstration Video. He is holding the curved chisel the other way round and it look so, this is working fine for him.. but he has spend a lot more time with this kind of chisel. I love your videos. Greetings from Austria! Anton
What tune are you using for your ring tone on the phone? The box holding the whetstones looks old. Did you make that or was that something you bought (many?) years ago?
This reminded me of something a friend of mine in Carthage, MO who builds fiddles told me. He said it would take him hundreds of hours to build a fiddle, but there'd always be someone asking what he had "for a hundred bucks". He said he'd tell them "well, I got a piece of wood over there..."
The potential of that grain when finished makes this the most exciting Mando build yet, I've got full coverage on my interest now I just need to clamp down my enthusiasm lol
Home made spindle sander from PVC pipe and fittings, simply ingenious. I gotta try that. Thank you for showing us how its done. Prediction: Its gonna be a beauty.
Beutiful work! This is going to be lovely when it's all finished. I've never carved a mando, but I've built some archtop guitars, two of which had quilted maple sides and back. Yes! It's a bear to work, for all the reasons you sited, but the results can be stunning. One interesting thing about bookmatching on quilted that I've noticed though that's worth a mention. The "quilts" in the wood figure appear sort of like pillows (convex) or cups (concave). Sort of "innies" and "outies". When you join the halves together in a bookmatch, the "outies" on one side of the joint will have its mirror as an "innie" on the other. There is still lots of lovely figure there, but this imposes a sort of visual asymmetry that doesn't seem as pronounced with say a back with 1/4 sawn tiger stripe figure. Again, still gorgeous end result, but there is a slightly off asymmetry in the figure in the bookmatch. I'm looking forward to seeing your next installment on this mandolin!
Re the multilaminate neck slippage issue... I think using some toothpicks through the layers into small locating holes might work to prevent slippage. You could drill small locating holes in the INSIDE of the outer pieces, and holes THROUGH the inner pieces so that they all line up perfectly before glueing up. Then as they are wood, they will be glued up inside the neck, invisible on the outside and would not affect the acoustics of the neck at all.
PS learned some useful tricks here. That sanding attachment for the hand drill is a great idea. Will have to see if this, or something like it is available here in Europe. I am planning on building a 5 string electric violin, and there are several techniques here that will prove very useful for my ideas. I plan to make a "floating" laminate top, maybe with a 1 mm carbon fibre sandwich between wood veneers. The idea would be to make the top of the violin structurally strong enough on its own, without having to make a complete box structure as in a standard violin. Then use carbon fibre struts on the underside, much like your wooden ones, here. As it will have a bridge pickup, the acoustic properties of the top won't be as important as here, so much as structural strength. But I have tried some solid bodied electric violins, and this "compresses the sound, too much for my liking. So a halfway house compromise with a top that does have some resonance is the idea, but somewhere between the standard acoustic top and a solid instrument. Thanks for this series. learning a lot!
@@timbeaton5045 Further to the slippage issue, Tim, there is a lot of waste area on that block, what with the neck, headstock and neck joint shaping. Just drill and dowel through areas you know are going to be cut off, after the glue has set. That also works when using ordinary clamps. Like clamping across the width of a table top, during glue-up. A beam on each side, clamped together, to stop the same type of slippage on a larger scale.
Hi Jerry, nice work. Tip; A round thick leather cushion 10/12" dia- 1-1/2" thick, filled with soft fine sand, like silversmiths use, would greatly facilitate your carving any round backed or bowl instrument. Cheers.
Jerry, some electric wire pulling lube, spread inside the black tube, could help you squeeze it over the end of the plastic vacuum bag. It is water soluble, for easy clean up.
Great point about engineering the top of the mandolin to NOT resonate at the pitch of any open string. Not only will it improve the sound, it will reduce feedback in live environments. I've worked sound for string bands and have had trouble with unmuted open strings sustaining infinitely.
Thats why Fender makes groovy looking instruments with quilted maple necks. Nothing prettier, BUT they are not stable. . Striped maple.... no problems, but Quilt is just not good neck material. Its lost and does not know where it wants to go as far as humidity and temperature.
Question, a lot of guitar manufacturers copyright the tailpiece shape. Why is it different with Mandolins? Or is my eye not familiar enough with mandolins?
Think you will find curve on that one chisel is whats messing with you jerry because ive noticed most of your chisel work is done with a straight chisel
Excuse me, could I ask how many teeth per inch on your bandsaw blade please? I cut hardwood a lot and use 4tpi. Yours looks higher, what is your reasoning. Thank you.
I get some of my best hand work done while fishing. Its peaceful and nobody's bugging you because that would scare the fish. I don't bait the hook. Don't want fish interrupting either. 🙂
Sorry I was not clear enough with my comment. I was thinking about not wanting the instrument to resonate on the same note as an open string. Even if the top does not, you won’t know the “final” note until the instrument is together, at which point Is there anything you could do about it if does end up on an open string note?
Golf a really great walk ruined by an evil little white ball. Fishing good but as you said make you thing you need to get back to doing what it is you do so well. And Jerry you do very well with instruments repairing and building them. And it shows how you love the work you do.
Hi Jerry, thanks for your videos,huge amounts of information so easily passed on by you. Thanks. I have a potential tip for your finger planes - take a cork, make a 1/2 wide slot punched into the end and fit it over the back of plane blade, it will be supported by the base of you hand like the plane you used for roughing
I love the sound of the guitar and you did a good job on the song. I'd guess the repairs should cost $500 to $600. If money wasn't a factor it may cost a little more as you would feel more comfortable doing more.
You are using the chisels with the bevels of the blade opposite---- old model, bevel is on bottom-- new chisel bevel is on top of blade--big difference
I am spending way too much time watching you build and repair instruments but it is so darned interesting. My wife walks by and says, "Watching paint dry again?"
G'day Jerry. A while ago I bought one of those dog leg chisels made by Two Cherries to do braces also. I discovered that they aren't curved at the business end but are in fact flat for the final 15mm or more. So they are just a flat chisel with an offset. I haven't been able to use them either and I was thinking of cutting off the final straight section or grinding the back to produce the curve needed, most likely a combination of these two methods. Good luck and as you found out a normal chisel up side down works better.
Jerry I hope you see this! I decided to 'put my money where my mouth is' and reshape the back of my 10mm wide dog leg chisel. I started by curving the back on the 80G linishing belt to create the shape and moved to the stones for the final smoothing/sharpening. The chisel has improved way beyond yours and my initial testing, but it is limited to producing a concave cut no deeper than the curve in the back of the chisel blade. This appears to be more than enough for guitar braces and plenty for how I do my mandolin tone bars.
Hi Jerry, An idea on the Drill Sander. Just drill and tap a hole on one of the flats of the nut for a grub screw... if the nut needs to come off just file a small flat on the threaded rod for it to fit into. That will keep allow you to run it in any direction without fear of it flying apart. Anyways I enjoy viewing your channel.
I'm going to guess that reason the curved chisel felt wrong is that the center line of the force you apply to it is not quite perpendicular to the cutting edge no matter how sharp it is. You are absolutely right that in time you would probably get used to the vector angle, but why bother ? As always, thanks for the video Jerry !
I noticed that others have commented that the narrow, straight chisel was used upside down while the curved one was right side up. I agree that this would make quite a difference because the top edge of the narrow chisel acts as a fulcrum and allows you to pop the shavings off. I always find a challenge when using new tools. I have often discarded what should be an improvement and gone back to the tried and true older tool.
It appears that the curved blade of the new chisel accentuates the rocking action of the top. It looks like the straight bladed chisel does not cause such additional rocking motion. I love the curly/quilted grain in the sides and back by the way, should be really beautiful when stained.
At 13:32 it is obvious to me that it is the two different side of the chisel who are used on the two different kind of them who are responsible of the awkward sensation you've got using it. The straight chisel uses its beveled side and on the contrary it is the flat side of the curved chisel that it is used on the bottom of the cut. This particular différence ruin completely the purpose of the design of the curved one which were to facilitate very low angle of attack for which he made it more difficult !!
I have never been able to get those Kirschen chisels to cut properly, I’ve given up on them. Don’t know what it is, but it feels like they aren’t properly hardened, or have been tempered too much. Bottom line is, I have the same experience as you, you think you got it sharp, but soon as you cut, they go dull.
two things strange : the bass brace should have been the lighter brace and the the treble one the stiffer. Both plates aren't a bit too thick ? because the arch produce a better resistance it should theoretically permit to be thinner than a flat top which is around 2-3 mm for spruce.
I noticed, Jerry, when you were using the new chisel you had bevel up, no choice really. But with the old one the bevel was down which is the way I would use it for this purpose. What’s your thoughts about the bevel up or down?
Jerry beautiful work haist makes waste!that Mandolin is going to be awesome,Cheers
Wouldn't a thin jam nut work on that sander to keep it from unwinding?
Very much enjoying following along on this build. Thank you!
I love your enthusiasm and lightheartedness. It seems like you value the craft but don’t feel everything is “precious.” First video I’ve seen of yours and I look forward to my impending backlog binge! 🤣
Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy! Are you done yet! LOL. Mighty fine.
I noticed with your narrow chisel the bevel is down, but with curved chisel the bevel is up by design. That could possibly effect the cutting efficiency.
I was thinking the same thing. Just armchair woodworking here.
Great watch Jerry, That's going to be a lovely piece of art.👏👏👏👍
I'm a wanting that mandolin already Rosameister!!!
A new hobby? With your woodworking skills you should build a model railway.
I wonder if people realize how much time and effort goes into work like this, and even moreso the thrill of when it's complete. great stuff Jerry!
Very true Randy, I am nothing like you guys, but it is gradifying to see the end product of your hard work, especially when you do an awesome job!
wouldn't bar clamps be more accurate and less time consuming?
Hi, wondering if you have a good source for fine line veneers and thin wood,hard to find in Colorado 🤔
F-holes: I watched the Canadian Luthier, Twoodford, take the back off a 1930's Martin Archtop acoustic guitar. Instead of a carved top Martin used a traditional Flattop guitar top and forced it into an arch with the bracing. I noticed that the F-holes in that guitar were not complete "F"s. I assume the reason for that is the top would have tried to go in every direction but the right way if they had cut complete "F"s into it.
toodfrd is a true craftsman. I always catch the latest from that channel. His style is the polar opposite of Jerry, and the path to completion is very different, but both guys are exceptional in the final product -- which is what really counts.
Also, I don't think that toodfrd has a working, many-acre farm to keep going.
You know why they are called F holes rite .and not its not cause its shaped like an F . A luther forcing that arch top you can here him 6 blocks radius ..
$%=/ . $^_= $%=% .. lol
I also follow Ted Woodford and find his approach to guitar repair very refreshing but perhaps a bit more parochial than Jerry's. The video that was referred to here is available at th-cam.com/video/65s7h_e4P7w/w-d-xo.html
That was a really interesting episode.
Saw that too interesting
Enjoyed it mr.jerry
You should build wooden model airplanes you would still be woodworking but building something entirely for recreation with your skill they my never land
How clever of you to use the plug on the peg head, as they say,
"prevention is better than cure"!
You need a leather sandbag for that chisel work.
looking great Jerry... 👍👍👍👍
Great video Jerry the grain looks real nice on that wood
you should list links to the music used in the fast-motion sections in the description!
You are an amazing artist. Thanks for sharing.
Hurry Up & Screw Up would be your 2 middle names
Jerry, don't press the plastic seal together on the vacuum bag. SLIDE it on over the inner rod from the end! I think it will be much easier that way!
The plastic is too sticky and the clamp is far too tight to slide.
Love her voice, got that bluegrass vibe. Beautiful. Is she doing the backup harmony?. Sounds great . that's going to be a beautiful instrument. God speed
Maybe the chisel was a re-gift.?
Jerry are you getting old like me 🤪 I swear I try to do too much and either I was better at it when I was younger or I think I was better than I was 😂 What f holes 🤔 oh yeah !
cant wait to see the finished product
Hello Jerry! Take a look at the Bourgeois Top Voicing Demonstration Video. He is holding the curved chisel the other way round and it look so, this is working fine for him.. but he has spend a lot more time with this kind of chisel. I love your videos. Greetings from Austria! Anton
If you turn it over it hits the curve hits the brace
What tune are you using for your ring tone on the phone? The box holding the whetstones looks old. Did you make that or was that something you bought (many?) years ago?
I made it in my recording studio From an Alison Krauss tune if I remember correctly
That sure is one hell of a nice Mandolin, I can't wait to see how it all comes out after staining and finishing.
Jerry, looks like you've done that a couple or 3 times before. LOL
👏👏👏👏👍🇬🇧
Jerry get your self a black Arkansas Stone that will give a razor edge .
That is an Arkansas stone
This reminded me of something a friend of mine in Carthage, MO who builds fiddles told me. He said it would take him hundreds of hours to build a fiddle, but there'd always be someone asking what he had "for a hundred bucks". He said he'd tell them "well, I got a piece of wood over there..."
Another wonderful upload for us Jerry!
Sending peace & love from Springfield, MO -Todd
The potential of that grain when finished makes this the most exciting Mando build yet, I've got full coverage on my interest now I just need to clamp down my enthusiasm lol
VERY NICE JOB DOC!!
Which type or brand of finger planes do you recommend?
IBEX round bottom
Need more .........
Beautiful job
You could use a metal round washer to trace the contour the same way. My shop teacher in the 70's drilled a hole in a penny to do the same thing.
good tip might work even better
Home made spindle sander from PVC pipe and fittings, simply ingenious. I gotta try that. Thank you for showing us how its done. Prediction: Its gonna be a beauty.
Beutiful work! This is going to be lovely when it's all finished. I've never carved a mando, but I've built some archtop guitars, two of which had quilted maple sides and back. Yes! It's a bear to work, for all the reasons you sited, but the results can be stunning.
One interesting thing about bookmatching on quilted that I've noticed though that's worth a mention. The "quilts" in the wood figure appear sort of like pillows (convex) or cups (concave). Sort of "innies" and "outies". When you join the halves together in a bookmatch, the "outies" on one side of the joint will have its mirror as an "innie" on the other. There is still lots of lovely figure there, but this imposes a sort of visual asymmetry that doesn't seem as pronounced with say a back with 1/4 sawn tiger stripe figure. Again, still gorgeous end result, but there is a slightly off asymmetry in the figure in the bookmatch. I'm looking forward to seeing your next installment on this mandolin!
I would not stain this curly maple instrument to dark. It may cover up the beautiful wood grain.
Re the multilaminate neck slippage issue... I think using some toothpicks through the layers into small locating holes might work to prevent slippage. You could drill small locating holes in the INSIDE of the outer pieces, and holes THROUGH the inner pieces so that they all line up perfectly before glueing up. Then as they are wood, they will be glued up inside the neck, invisible on the outside and would not affect the acoustics of the neck at all.
PS learned some useful tricks here. That sanding attachment for the hand drill is a great idea. Will have to see if this, or something like it is available here in Europe.
I am planning on building a 5 string electric violin, and there are several techniques here that will prove very useful for my ideas. I plan to make a "floating" laminate top, maybe with a 1 mm carbon fibre sandwich between wood veneers. The idea would be to make the top of the violin structurally strong enough on its own, without having to make a complete box structure as in a standard violin. Then use carbon fibre struts on the underside, much like your wooden ones, here.
As it will have a bridge pickup, the acoustic properties of the top won't be as important as here, so much as structural strength. But I have tried some solid bodied electric violins, and this "compresses the sound, too much for my liking. So a halfway house compromise with a top that does have some resonance is the idea, but somewhere between the standard acoustic top and a solid instrument.
Thanks for this series. learning a lot!
@@timbeaton5045 Further to the slippage issue, Tim, there is a lot of waste area on that block, what with the neck, headstock and neck joint shaping. Just drill and dowel through areas you know are going to be cut off, after the glue has set. That also works when using ordinary clamps. Like clamping across the width of a table top, during glue-up. A beam on each side, clamped together, to stop the same type of slippage on a larger scale.
Hi Jerry, nice work. Tip; A round thick leather cushion 10/12" dia- 1-1/2" thick, filled with soft fine sand, like silversmiths use, would greatly facilitate your carving any round backed or bowl instrument. Cheers.
Jerry, some electric wire pulling lube, spread inside the black tube,
could help you squeeze it over the end of the plastic vacuum bag.
It is water soluble, for easy clean up.
Great point about engineering the top of the mandolin to NOT resonate at the pitch of any open string. Not only will it improve the sound, it will reduce feedback in live environments. I've worked sound for string bands and have had trouble with unmuted open strings sustaining infinitely.
Sometimes people who do not carve..come up with useless shapes because they just BELIEVE it would work.
Don’t know if it matters to you but your curved chisel was bevel up vs your straight chisel being bevel down.
Thats why Fender makes groovy looking instruments with quilted maple necks. Nothing prettier, BUT they are not stable. . Striped maple.... no problems, but Quilt is just not good neck material. Its lost and does not know where it wants to go as far as humidity and temperature.
Question, a lot of guitar manufacturers copyright the tailpiece shape. Why is it different with Mandolins? Or is my eye not familiar enough with mandolins?
Squisit! as usual!!!
The curved chisel might be more comfortable if you're standing up.
Awesome video. As a long retired luthier myself, I can’t tell you how much I enjoy watching your work!
Think you will find curve on that one chisel is whats messing with you jerry because ive noticed most of your chisel work is done with a straight chisel
Excuse me, could I ask how many teeth per inch on your bandsaw blade please? I cut hardwood a lot and use 4tpi. Yours looks higher, what is your reasoning. Thank you.
I get some of my best hand work done while fishing. Its peaceful and nobody's bugging you because that would scare the fish. I don't bait the hook. Don't want fish interrupting either. 🙂
Hi Jerry isn’t it more important what note the final assemble instrument makes, not just the top?
Of course it all matters. However as I've often said the top is 80% of your sound at least
If the top does not resonate well, it will
mute the sound of the assembled instrument.
Sorry I was not clear enough with my comment. I was thinking about not wanting the instrument to resonate on the same note as an open string. Even if the top does not, you won’t know the “final” note until the instrument is together, at which point Is there anything you could do about it if does end up on an open string note?
@@edd2771 :
Oh, OK. That's one I don't know about, yet.
Golf a really great walk ruined by an evil little white ball. Fishing good but as you said make you thing you need to get back to doing what it is you do so well. And Jerry you do very well with instruments repairing and building them. And it shows how you love the work you do.
Hi Jerry, thanks for your videos,huge amounts of information so easily passed on by you. Thanks. I have a potential tip for your finger planes - take a cork, make a 1/2 wide slot punched into the end and fit it over the back of plane blade, it will be supported by the base of you hand like the plane you used for roughing
Have you tried CBD lotion? It should reduce the swelling in your joints{no pun intended} that should reduce the pain.
I love the sound of the guitar and you did a good job on the song. I'd guess the repairs should cost $500 to $600. If money wasn't a factor it may cost a little more as you would feel more comfortable doing more.
You are using the chisels with the bevels of the blade opposite---- old model, bevel is on bottom-- new chisel bevel is on top of blade--big difference
How about gluing a strip of veneer around the F-holes with hard glue? Would think white glue + gauze mutes the vibrations a tiny bit.
I am spending way too much time watching you build and repair instruments but it is so darned interesting. My wife walks by and says, "Watching paint dry again?"
I still do almost everything in thousands but can convert back and forth to millimeters pretty well in my head.
G'day Jerry. A while ago I bought one of those dog leg chisels made by Two Cherries to do braces also. I discovered that they aren't curved at the business end but are in fact flat for the final 15mm or more. So they are just a flat chisel with an offset. I haven't been able to use them either and I was thinking of cutting off the final straight section or grinding the back to produce the curve needed, most likely a combination of these two methods. Good luck and as you found out a normal chisel up side down works better.
Jerry I hope you see this! I decided to 'put my money where my mouth is' and reshape the back of my 10mm wide dog leg chisel. I started by curving the back on the 80G linishing belt to create the shape and moved to the stones for the final smoothing/sharpening. The chisel has improved way beyond yours and my initial testing, but it is limited to producing a concave cut no deeper than the curve in the back of the chisel blade. This appears to be more than enough for guitar braces and plenty for how I do my mandolin tone bars.
I'll probably just stick with the straight chisel. If it an't broke...
I agree but your video inspired me and sometimes a man has to tinker. The chisel was useless as it was.
Here I am wondering what tools I need to buy to build like this. I never built an instrument but damn I want to.
You could simply put a jam-nut on the sander, and then it'll operate in either direction, Jerry.
I love that stone holder sharpening stone holder. Is that something you made, Jerry?
Hi Jerry, An idea on the Drill Sander. Just drill and tap a hole on one of the flats of the nut for a grub screw... if the nut needs to come off just file a small flat on the threaded rod for it to fit into. That will keep allow you to run it in any direction without fear of it flying apart. Anyways I enjoy viewing your channel.
19:22
I straight up did a triple take "Did that man just break and immediately magick his glasses back together?"
I don’t know how I found this channel but man-ole-man am I glad I did, nothing I love more than watching a master luthier.
I'm going to guess that reason the curved chisel felt wrong is that the center line of the force you apply to it is not quite perpendicular to the cutting edge no matter how sharp it is. You are absolutely right that in time you would probably get used to the vector angle, but why bother ? As always, thanks for the video Jerry !
where i come from no one does or ever has played the mandolin and you guys go off with them......awesome, thanks for the vid
I noticed that others have commented that the narrow, straight chisel was used upside down while the curved one was right side up. I agree that this would make quite a difference because the top edge of the narrow chisel acts as a fulcrum and allows you to pop the shavings off. I always find a challenge when using new tools. I have often discarded what should be an improvement and gone back to the tried and true older tool.
It appears that the curved blade of the new chisel accentuates the rocking action of the top. It looks like the straight bladed chisel does not cause such additional rocking motion. I love the curly/quilted grain in the sides and back by the way, should be really beautiful when stained.
Bet you wound up spending most of your Saturday working on that mandolin.
I truly appreciate how you continue to hone your craft even though you’re a master luthier and builder of all kinds of things.
Sprinkle some salt after putting glue down to help keep the pieces from sliding around when laminating pieces of wood together in a glue up.
My hand cramped just watching that finger plane.
At 13:32 it is obvious to me that it is the two different side of the chisel who are used on the two different kind of them who are responsible of the awkward sensation you've got using it. The straight chisel uses its beveled side and on the contrary it is the flat side of the curved chisel that it is used on the bottom of the cut. This particular différence ruin completely the purpose of the design of the curved one which were to facilitate very low angle of attack for which he made it more difficult !!
I have never been able to get those Kirschen chisels to cut properly, I’ve given up on them. Don’t know what it is, but it feels like they aren’t properly hardened, or have been tempered too much. Bottom line is, I have the same experience as you, you think you got it sharp, but soon as you cut, they go dull.
May be hard to scrap but that grain is beautiful. Hope it's clear coated
IF YOU CAN SEE THE EDGE**IT IS NOT SHARP**SHARP EDGE DOES NOT REFLECT LIGHT.**DR KEL
two things strange : the bass brace should have been the lighter brace and the the treble one the stiffer. Both plates aren't a bit too thick ? because the arch produce a better resistance it should theoretically permit to be thinner than a flat top which is around 2-3 mm for spruce.
That chisel is probably most useful for poor access areas. Standard chisel may be easier out in the open.
I noticed, Jerry, when you were using the new chisel you had bevel up, no choice really. But with the old one the bevel was down which is the way I would use it for this purpose. What’s your thoughts about the bevel up or down?
I loved watching this one. It's going to be a beautiful mandolin. But how will it sound?
If i ever come into some money i will commission a Rosa guitar with maple back and sides. Jerry you are a wonderful craftsman.
Have you considered using two nuts for your sander? You should be able to run it in both directions that way.
The bevel is the wrong way up on the funny curved chisel.
Golf's no good? Snoring is good! Synchronized Snoring? Freestyle Snoring? etc.
The curved chisel is bevel up whereas the straight is bevel down. Bevel down gives you more control.
That curved chisel looks like something to be held two handed to me, otherwise the angle point just throws you off direction
Jerry, the next time that you do some luthier work on camera, you need to wear a wizard hat like Merlin.
Golf? Carving wood makes more sense. For that matter, so does just taking a nap.
RUBBER JAWED PLIERS...for squeezing the seal on your vacuum bag. Becoming addicted to watching you & Kalib work. 👍🏻👍🏻
I was going to mention a squeeze clamp for that very purpose. Seems that would work pretty well.
Golf? Fishin'? Nah you'd be well bored!