NEW Christopher Ward Twelve X - The Good, Bad, And Ugly!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ย. 2024
- Christopher Ward just released the new Twelve X and here is a hands-on review of this new watch.
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I was wearing my Tissot Gentleman today and I can't believe how much I am falling in love with that watch every day :)
I don't understand the issue with the price--what else out there is even close for that cost? The only parallels I can think of are the Zenith Defy Titanium Skeleton, which is $10,000 more than the CW-more than THREE TIMES the price. IWC also charges $14,000 for the titanium Ingenieur and that's for a more basic execution with a non-in-house, non-skeletonized, non-COSC movement As far as the Tudor comparison, that was just confusing. I can't imagine someone cross-shopping a Black Bay against the Twelve X at all, let alone basing their decision between the two on something as insignificant as a 4-second difference in movement certification tolerances. Tudors in this price range are pretty basic tool watches with industrial finishing and homage designs and comparable to watches CW sells for about a grand.
I truly don't get the complaint about price. It's a skeletonized, COSC certified, titanium grades 2 and 5, with a micro-adjustable butterfly clasp, watch from a solid Swiss brand. To me it's more than fair in terms of pricing. Just my two cents.
A lot of it is just people with a knee jerk reaction that think CW should be cheap. And also people clutching pearls and being snobbish that CW has the balls to take on the heritage brands. Having said that, i think this watch would have been unquestionably compelling at $3999 or something like that. Regardless, i do like it and think it looks aesthetically better than the nearest competition from Oris or Zenith while being significantly less expensive.
The SH21 movement is not new at all. And in case you were not aware, this Twelve X that you are reviewing is actually to celebrate SH21's 10th anniversary.
It's not new but it's definitely been worked to be skeletonized and the 12x's sh21 has never existed before so it's maybe not new but it's definitely modified
@@RadixRill I am merely correcting the statement made by this youtuber in his video. In any case, the SH21 in the C60 Concept (from end 2021) was very skeletonised as well. Not to the absolute extent as in this Twelve X of course, but I think it came pretty close in the level of skeletonisation. I would say the Twelve X is a refinement of the skeletonised SH21 found in the Concept.
I believe they priced and positioned it correctly. A cost plus based pricing strategy for a flagship product would only undermine them. They have the credibility at this point to charge more.
The SH21 is celebrating its TENTH anniversary, and it is an in-house Swiss movement. Christopher Ward has owned/been merged with Synergies Horlogères of Biel, Switzerland since 2014 (that's the S-H part of the calibre identifier) which is when they first released the SH21. The SH21 was designed by Johannes Jahnke, and it is produced by SH/CW with nine other suppliers based in Switzerland. That's also the reason it can be COSC certified...
Yeah, he has like half of the facts wrong. Like this idea with CW raising prices due to changes at Bremont. Not true at all - CW has history of this kind "halo versions" of their line-up (like Tridents) with SH21, which all were above €3000. Nothing new with this one.
So I’m somewhat right then. The watch movement is not made in Britain and it may only be assembled into a full watch in Britain.
@@Entertainment- Still nope. It is "swiss made" - the brand is British, but it's fully cased in Switzerland.
Like the new £27.5k Tudor 18k BB, CW won’t expect to sell many of these. This will however allow them to start pushing up the price of their existing and other more marketable pieces.
I believe that Tudor is the gold Black Bay (non-GMT) ?
@@pkennethv please explain, this doesn’t make sense
@@MrTomlee76 I just re-read my first comment, and realized I typo-ed "gold" as "sold"
Hopefully CW will keep to their original 3x cost retail price for their watches 🤞
My understanding is that they've been selling out of the similarly-priced Bel Canto
the term inhouse in my opinion means inhouse like Grand Seiko, JLC etc However, having an exclusive movement being developed by an expert 3rd party provider is not in house to me.
The movement was designed by Johannes Jahnke whilst he worked with CW as their master watchmaker, and is manufactured by Synergies Horlogères, which is part of the Christopher Ward company. It is an in-house movement...
Love Christopher Ward! On my wrist today is the C63 SH21 Blue Marine #147 of 150! At home is my C60 Pro 300 Bronze...amazing!
If Czapek can sell a skeletonized steel Antarctique for 38k, 4500 for this is a bargain. Just like the Bel Canto.
If Christopher Ward can sell this titanium watch for 4k then a Ciga Design Z ti series is a bargain at $400, just like the Blue Planet.
Owned several CW & they make great watches. Technically impressive, but it's just waaay too expensive for a CW. For similar money, I can pick up a lightly used Zenith Defy & that's just no comparison.
I was just about to say this. I bought a defy for £5K pre owned. It's bigger than this CW as well. And I love looking at the seconds hard zooming around lol
Ive owned a white ceramic defy and it blows this out of the water. Plus its a CW for 5k, Omega territory.
100% agree, I'd go with the pre owned Zenith Defy every time, just in a different league - the design of the skeleton blows the CW out of the water in my opinion as well
Spot on.
comparing a new watch with a used watch is stupid.
Why don't you compare a used version of this watch to a used defy. It will most likely be twice the price. Also there are a finite supply of used Defy watches.
With prices like these I would go for Tudor
I know you mean well, so I’m not having a go, but two major points to make.
Firstly this watch is not remotely overpriced. That doesn’t mean it isn’t too expensive, it means it’s reasonably priced for what it is. CW still operates on a 3x pricing model (meaning they sell for 3x what they cost to make). Most Swiss watches sell for a minimum of 5x and many far more. So this watch costs a lot to make. The price is downright cheap for what you get. Where it’s debatable is whether they are offering something people would be willing to buy at that price. Personally I love it, but I can see both sides.
Secondly. The SH21 is super, super, in-house. It’s one of most in-house movements out there anywhere near the price. It’s not a clone or a copy, and it has a lot of unique characteristics, including massive power reserve and remarkable durability.
I do have a Christopher Ward on. An older Seamaster C63 in Bronze.
This seems to be similar to their thinking with the bel canto, its a flex of their watchmaking and showing their not just a little micro brand and can grab headlines with these special pieces to draw people in to the bread and butter C65s etc
I'm wearing my black dial Monta Triumph today. I love that it's so thin and comfortable on wrist. I think this is a cool release, and I hope to see the clasp quick adjust tech trickles down to the regular Twelve line. My first automatic was a skeleton watch and one of my first watches was a Swatch Jellyfish, so I do like skeleton watches in theory. However, it really depends on the execution. This one has a lot going on, so I probably wouldn't see much of my wrist. It's just not a good look to see a hairy arm beneath the movement. 😬
My sentiment's exactly regarding the quick adjust clasp, lets hope it becomes common place with their butterfly clasps.
how are they pricing a machine finished skeleton higher than the hand finished limited c60 concept skeleton
Saw the C60 Concept for the first time today and its much nicer looking!
Pretty sure I will be having my deposit refunded now.
@@wristopia4101 same, I was on the fence at best, and with it not being limited can always pick it up later
are they still producing the c60 concept? where can you find them?
@@private464 Unfortunately not, as It looks way nicer IMO.
Movement, bezel/lume, and watch generally.
The price seems to make sense from a production point of view. From a consumer point of view it might be a bit steep. Then again, if you want an integrated sports watch with a skeletonized cosc movement, what are the alternatives?
Longines Avigation Bigeye Ti on wrist. Bought from CH Bentall Centre.
On wrist is my Wired digital. Love the heft of the watch.
I think the skeletonization is better on this than the zenith defy. I think I'll pick up a 12x but I'm not going to preorder.
Love that Oris. I get tons of compliments on mine.
Agree 100%. CW make beautiful watches, and their main draw for me has been how accessible they are. This is in Tudor/Omega territory, which takes it out of reach for so many enthusiasts. It's beautiful, it really is, but give me a pre-owned Aqua Terra any day of the week over the 12X.
I have been swithering on buying a CW. 4k is a bit pricey like!
Today, i am wearing the Certina DS Action with the new Bark and Jack sky blue NATO strap. Looks awesome⌚️😉👍
Wrist check: Boderry Sea.Turtle Bronze Diver limited edition 1/150
dont know how much it adds to the value but something not mentioned is that there is also micro adjustment on the braclet
That's something rarely seen, unfortunately... I don't believe even the Zenith Defy, which people keep referencing (notably using second-hand prices as a comparison rather than the MSRP which is considerably higher), has that. I know it's definitely on watches from Vacheron Constantin, and also I think Formex...
Absolutely Agree. Cool watch but the price is insane, and paying 2k for a 10 month pre order seems crazy to me. Would buy for 3k. Not 5k.
If I remember correctly, CW caps their mark-ups at 3x the materials... but 4k is the price of a Bel Canto.
Longines pilot majetek on wrist today on the ultra chron bracelet... retro 70's look and feel. Uber cool 😎.
I this watch had another name on it folk would be shouting about what a bargain it is. For the components and finishing it is a huge amount of watch but I don't think many will be able to get over their inbuilt watch brand prejudices. That being said Christopher Ward have basically stated with this that they have the technical skills and manufacturing ability to mix it with the big boys. I does the brand no harm whatsoever.
Horage, the Swiss micro, is high 90s for in-house as well. Love it when companies fully disclose. CW is mostly China sourced, despite the nearly meaningless ‘Swiss made’ label. CW is doing a lot right however, so hopefully they keep becoming more British!
Do have the a CW twelve frosted lichen in the 36mm on the rubber strap on wrist today:) loaner unfortunately and will have to go back;(
Hi Harrison, I made you jump on Jamaica Street in Glasgow earlier.... Just never seen someone off the Inter Tube before in real life.
Love your content.... Top class.... Pleasure meeting you.
Haha made me jump!! Was awesome to meet you my man 🙌🙌🙌
I've got a Christopher Ward 12 36mm on! In the white and rose gold colourway. How fortuitous!
You can buy a Rotary Sport Regent Skeleton Automatic which has been around for years on integrated bracelet for £330. Looks very similar.
120 hr power reserve is great, skeleton watches are not my thing , seems it's of good finishing, certified movement is adding to the watch but for the price even i think it worth it, i doubt it would be in my list as it competes with longines , tudor and many other watches i have in my mind to buy.
2 points regarding price 1) omega prices have near ebough doubled in last few years have they improv3d significantly in that time NOPE , you mentioned the CW was significantly better than other models. 2) if you remove the logos based on feel wualityy and spec ehat would the 3atch be worth , ive not jeld one myslef
Thanks for the honest review! Besides the price being too high, the legibility on this skeleton dial seems to be pretty bad with the combination of a too opened dial, too many steel parts as well as the tiny hour markers. The rotor also looks awful with the HUGE plain white CHRISTOPHER WARD text. I would have preferred a new Twelve with a simpler dial (without the +s) and an upgraded movement.
Wearing my Rolex Datejust. I am currently saving for the CW Twelve Ti purple/black dial and this watch is nice but I’ll stick with the model I am already saving for
I’m wearing my 2006 planet ocean today on an orange strap. Great video, man!
Price is fine for what it is, this also isnt new for CW, theyve charged nearly 4k for the previous SH21 concept watch a few years ago.
I’m wearing a Christopher Ward The 12 with the basalt grey dial; love it. Sorry don’t like the Twelve X (Ti) or the price!
You rotally missed the mark with your price comments. The standard 12 is still 1,200 USD....the titanium is under 2k. This one is a premium for a very premium movement and elevated finishing. They didn't raise their prices because of anything to do with Bremont....
Did you mention that the bracelet has on the fly adjustment?
CW are pushing the boundaries - such an exciting time for them!! Every watch they have released recently has been a smash hit!!
The level of finishing, materials etc make this a well priced watch. Its around price of Tudor and less than Zenith or Omega. A skeletonised Zenith is well over double this price and if Tudor or omega did it I would assume it would be triple the price! I understand that the perception of CW has been entry level but the bel canto and this are changing this perception 👍🙏
I've told CW what I want in their survey - a limited edition aventurine Twelve with the SW300-1 COSC (or better)
I loved the watch.I really love skeletonized watches and I don’t own. I own c1 worldtimer and I really love c1 and was planning to buy this one untill I saw the price. In that price I would bet my money on Rado captian cook skeleton 3K i guess and better brand history
Venezianico Redentore Avventurina on my wrist today :) What would be much more important message in general would be if they would introduce the same micro adjust to regular Twelve bracelets. For price of Bell Canto and Twelve on rubber we offer you single Twelve which is not so good looking. I am planning to get regular Twelve next year for my 40th birthday and have to somehow persuade my wife :D But this one makes no sense to me pricewise.
I don't own any CW watches , but I do respect what they have done and are doing in the watch industry, I own a couple of skeleton watches as I love to see the mechanics. I absolutely love this iteration of the twelve and as skeleton watches watches go it seems to tick all my boxes, except for the price! . Which I do understand everything has gone up across all industries. Unfortunately for us as consumers we have no other choice but to cough up if we want that commodity.
I have the C60 Concept with the same movement. It was cheaper, limited edition, and I prefer the pop of colour with the moveable bezel.
I agree. But that is a much thicker watch. And they aren't available...unless they decide to make more.
@@private464 or you can find one second-hand. The thickness isn't a problem as the case is so light, being titanium. I like the framing of the watch by the bezel. But I can see the Twelve X is dressier, though nowadays anything goes most of the time unless you are real traditionalist.
I love this watch but i think it should be 2K at best. That way,they would sell really good and make lots of good noise in the community. Honestly even if they made steel one for 1800, and maybe have titanium for like 2000-2200.
The Tissot T-Complication Squelette has the same vibe but for ~$1,500
Wow, you caught me wearing a “long” one..
Seiko king samurai save the ocean dark manta ray special edition.
I normally HATE skeleton watches, but I really like this. I'd take it over a Zenith Defy Classic, and Zenith are my favourite manufacturer. But it is too much money. £2500 tops I would say.
The price is more than fair. Quit complaining. It looks stunning, grade 5 titanium, in-house movement, gorgeous bracelet with exceptional micro-adjustment, stunning lume and 120 hour power reserve. Put another name on it and people would happily pay 3 or 4 times what they are asking.
I feel like it’s a Zenith defy without the nuance and it’s not priced low enough to justify that
This is very much an aim at the skeletonized zenith defy models. Yet, under-pricing by half...impressive.
Totally a agree, its a shame they did not release a 20th anniversary watch for the folks that purchased a CWard watch in the 1-2k price range. I own a few of them, but wont be buying this one, its above my comfort zone and would go with Tudor or Longines if I spent that kind of money. At that price point history and brand is important to me and CWard does not have it yet.
I wish they would just give us more masculine colour options in the 36mm model. I can't see many people buying this.
Masculine...for a 36mm??! Does not compute!
Sorry. 😁
36mm is the classic men's size. It's timeless 😁@@ph8077
If it's Twelve X, does it make this Ward XIIX ?
They literally (numerically?) used that in their cryptic marketing leading up to today's announcement!
It's a pretty damn nice watch. However.. at $4865 USD on the bracelet, that's a bit ambitious. On a lower luxury tier, it's kind of how I (we) feel about the new IWC Ingenieur pricing at well over $10k. They're both a wee bit more than we'd expect and hope to pay for brand new. IDK?.. maybe it's fair pricing?.. but, I think it'll be hard sell and there will be a lot of "...I think I'd rather buy this other watch instead for that kind of money..."
And, at 41mm with an integrated bracelet style watch, it will wear bigger than a normal 41mm watch would.. I'd say approximately at least 2mm more.. which for my 7" wrist ain't so great.
Good for those who have at least 7.5"+ larger wrists and large budget for such a watch.
I think they're heading in the wrong direction on sizing. A big part of the hype for new BB58 GMT is the size. A lot of people are over the dinner plate sized watches and want something more refined on wrist.
Not that this is incredibly big, but in general most people comment on the 12 wearing a little bigger than they'd like; so 39 would seem to have gotten closer to the sweet spot. Big ups for the titanium and as ever the design is really cool although not my thing personally.
Great review, and well done by CW. Absolutely insane at that price point. This should be a sub $2k piece
I agree 100%
It should but there is a thing called reality which doesnt allow it to be a sub 2000 dollar watch
@@aranyjanos31 I doubt the company costs are much more than $700...and they used to famously say that they price their watches at only 3 times cost price. Seems pretty doable in reality to me.
@@private464 no way they can produce a titanium skeleton watch with an in-house movement for 700$ in switzerland
i understand that its a little expensive (especially from CW) but if you look at the competition, a zenith defy skeleton is 10k+
The price is shocking, but given the specs I don’t mind it. CW is known for good finishing, and the power reserve and accuracy mean you’re kind of cross shopping this against the Oris Propilot X 10-day and the Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton. In my mind, it’s justified.
As long as CW use these innovations to raise the bar in their £1k options, they can make all the noveltys they want for £3k-£10k. There are plenty of people with enough money to buy them, this should fund the research to improve their entry level options. The point where I would take issue is if they use these novelties to drive up the overall price of the brand / entry point to Tudor levels, hopefully not.
I actually think it's an honestly priced watch. If you want something similar you'll have to pay double for Zenith Defy. If you want something at the same price - Black Bay which, while nice, is nothing special and have nowhere near this level of detail finish/movement architecture wise.
Lovely watch for sure BUT why stamp the brand in massive lettering on the rotor. Not needed on a watch that such careful consideration has gone into finessing the design. I do however think it is value for money.
learning more about Cristopher Ward, and I am fairly impressed. Just getting into the watch game, my 1st piece is on my wrist now, a Tissot Seastar 2000, grey dial, on black rubber strap. Love it so far
Price is way too high, but that doesn't seem to stop people from paying these days. It will sell, just not to me.
8:39. Ok but how 'in-house" in your in-house podcast REALLY? Is it >90% in house? Or did you just slap a custom rotor on some off-the-shelf podcast and call it "in-house"??? WE NEED DISCLOSURE!
I would honestly say that £4k is entry level now, for only £2k more you could get a Cartier or Rolex. There aren’t many watches below £4k that you can describe as ‘luxury’ anymore.
Yes, nice but price a bit too high❤
you’re literally my comfort person i love you #nkuwan !
I have a Panerai Luminor PAM722 on
Great review
I really like this watch. Im looking for a skeleton watch and this looks great. Its their first in house movement, its a chronometer, and its a twelve. Great. If this was $3500, I'd have a hard time not buying it. Its $1k more than the Bel Canto!
Hate skeleton watches but as they go this is awesome. If they put a normal dial on it and kept the open case back on well then we would be talking 🤔
This reminds me of Tissot PRX!
Breguet Type XX Aeronavale on my wrist
Love the watch, but it needs contrasting hands and rotor. Maybe rose gold or blue steel. Also the name branding is tacky, should stick w utilitarian design. As much as I love the watch, I own a black ceramic defy 21… they look very similar.
Stunning but I'm buying another brand at that price.
Atepping on Tudors toes in price is an overstep for CW, as a watchmaker i understand why its this expensive, developing an bew calibre is brutal.
They likely sunk 2 million into the project just before they got their first unit and CW operate at low volume.
I just hope this helps they eat the cost and they can start adding these to existing models at lower cost soon
I was digging it until I saw the price. no sale.
I dont know why they made it titanium. Steel and half price would be great
My god that's a price of a second hand rolex... which one should I pick lol?
I’ve got the purple titanium version
I don’t think this is as attractive and the price is prohibitive
This is beautiful!
You literally can by a defy zenith skeleton for that amount of money. True it would have to be the older defy and not the skyline, but I bet if you shopped around you could get a new one for just about the same price
Skeleton dialed watches may not be to the taste of everyone and a watch over 4k may not either. This watch is not for you and thats ok. It's also ok to merit the accomplishment and effort put into something not to one's liking or out of one's price bracket.
This is a well made and proper watch. It may not have the Omega, Tudor or other big brand name but that doesn’t mean it’s not a good watch. What they accomplished, well finished movement, well finished Ti case, in-house chronometer certified movement, and a microadjust ON A BUTTERFLY clasp... for under 5k? Lets give them credit. I had a Zenith Defy Skeleton that cost several K more and it didnt have a microadjust.
Great accomplishments CW. I'm looking foward to see what you do next!
It is expensive. For that price, I could have a mass produced, machined parts, robotic movement assembled, with non finished movement(only in house because they bought the supplier) Rolex homage. I mean Tudor. The new BB monochrome. Similar priced. With no finishing and no design, just a homage to Rolex. But it’s priced fine? Talk about buying into the branding. For a high quality Rolex Sub homage, 1k gets you one.( not a clone, a homage) At least Christopher Ward are bringing their own designs, premium materials and lovely finished movement. Christopher Ward is offering way more in terms of watch compared to Tudor. Tudor, like Rolex, are playing the brand card and making you pay for the privilege, it’s just more affordable watch snobbery.
Well said.
Opinion on Atelier Wen
I still need the c1 moonphase
The CW I was waiting for, until I saw the price, new Oris Aquis cal 400, 10 yr warranty for £2950, before you barter with the AD, so probably well over £1k less(I know it’s not titanium), is where my money is going…..
So I was confused by this in house movement because I hadn't heard about CW making in house before. But i found on their on webpage that they have already had this movement for 10 years. This is not a new movement!
Good brand with in house mouvment,but a little too expensive for me,this kind of brand have to give more for less if they want ro secure a good number of customer,but just my point of view
yeah they really are pushing price, but they NAILED the look. Cleanest skeleton I've ever seen imho.
The dial still says Swiss Made so maybe the movement isn’t English made?
How can it be COSC certified if it's made in Britain. COSC requires Switzerland made movements, which is why no Japanese movement is COSC certified.
This isn’t correct, I believe they just need to send it to COSC in Switzerland and they do it. It doesn’t have to be actually made entirely in Switzerland.
@@ChisholmHunterOfficial The SH21 is made by Synergies Horlogères (a watch movement maker, part of Christopher Ward since 2014) alongside at least nine other suppliers in Switzerland, with the machine finishing by Paoluzzo AG in Switzerland (CW have a 20% holding in them). It is an in-house calibre and they've been using iterations of it for the past 10 years, so you were not blocked by the embargo in looking it up. ;) In fact CW supply movements to MeisterSinger in Germany as well...
I also own a few CW watches. I think they’re great….. but the Belcanto has been a nightmare experience!!
Also, this thing where skeletonised faces cost more… why?????
The movement is the same and you’re not getting a dial….
So less watch for more money .. 🤷🏻♂️
Skeletons are more expensive because they're more difficult to produce.
On paper, this is a perfect watch for me. I love skeleton watches with great movements. But that price isn't even close to the right ballpark.