My dad used this method forever and it never fails 😂👍🏾now we all use this method that was passed on also and newer engines are even easier than an old school distributor 😅
Why all the thumbs down? Been doing it this way for 35 years when i cant see the valves. Looks correct to me, and the video is clear and consise with no time wasted. Thank you for you efforts.
Bump it till you feel the pressure but then you put some rubber hose down the cylinder and turn the engine by hand till the hose stops before going back down. Too far rotate it back around twice and watch it a little closer. That's TDC for sure.
@@jimmysapien9961 Just like with anything ,people love to overcomplicate things,stabbing a distributor is something easy to do but of course you need to follow certain parameters.
i just got a boat and never worked on a engine with a distributor. Well....never had to completely time a engine with a distributor. the whole time i was trying to start the engine at 0 degrees instead of 10-15 degrees BTDC duh! your my hero dude
This video is definitely showing it’s age a little, but man YOU CAME IN CLUTCH. I’m getting recruited by people to get engines started from scratch with timing and totally forgot the method and you explained it meticulously, didn’t miss a thing! Thanks for being informative, and producing a helpful, clear video!
BRO! THANK YOU!!!!! I have a 63 Corvair and was havinbg difficulty with this. Every gear head that came out acted as if this was some "top secret" knowledge that they were only privy to know. Anyhoo, very helpful very "Simple " talk and steps. THANKS !
Nice video 👍 I found one day that a wine bottle cork, shaped down to a gradual point with a long screw attached worked quite well. Shove it in tight, then compression blows it out. Works well when access is limited.
Very nice video. An easy way to make a remote starter control is to take a tricicle handlegrip and thread a piece of 18-2 zip cord thru its hole and put the wires onto a doorbell button that mounts round in a hole. Its a perfect fit for the handlegrip. Tie a knot in the zipcord so it won't come out of the hole inside the grip. This keeps the tension off the switch hookup. then strip back the distance you require between the battery positive and the solenoid and install one allegator clip and one crocodile clip. This makes a good starting cord. Make it long enough to reach down to the timing marks. Bill, from Tn. 🇺🇸
very good video . explained very clearly and all the steps seem easy to follow . I don't know why other videos make it look so complicated . will be installing HEI on my 72 Buick Electra and will be doing this just like you've shown
Good video but can you have a tutorial on how to wire up that HEI distributor from a points/analog distributor? I think I wired mine wrong and I can't find any video on the proper wiring. Also the instructions I got for mine were vague.
Great job on the video. Just an opinion on the HEI distributors. I had one and found them very troublesome. They are extremely hard to set and maintain a reasonable (aka factory setting for total advance) total advance curve. Also they pack way too much into a oversized package and as such present a whole host of other ongoing issues. I took mine out and replaced it with a Pertronix unit. Way better and rock solid in reliability and performance. FYI
If I past the 0 on top dead center will this damage my engine I have a chevy 327 or will I be able to rotate it back conter clock wise great video I need help with mines thanks
Looks like the harder way. The easiest is the whistle method and you can buy them cheap or make your own. A piece of tubing with a cone at one end and a whistle at the other. Place the cone end in the spark plug hole. Turn the motor over and when that cyl is coming up on compression, you will hear the whistle and as you keep going, the whistle will stop and that is your TDC.
Thank you. I am about to rebuild/try to start an old 888 and would love to know where you found the manufacturers manual to see what the timing should be? Any chance you could share the manual?
Only time you will have air coming out the spark plug hole is on the compression stroke (both valves closed). During the exhaust stroke (exhaust valve open) the air will flow out the exhaust valve.
I bought this same distributor for my 302....i had a efi engine I swapped to a carb set up.please!!! Tell me how and also where the number one spark plug wire starts cause it does not show the number on cap! Thanks in advance!
Set the engine to top dead center on cylinder 1, line any one of the 8 positions of the distributor and button to a position and that will be your number 1 position.
hi 1D10, i just got a new dist. for my 1990 ford e350 econoline van 5.8. number one is so, so hard to get to. i've heard that if you're replacing a dist. from scratch (no idea where original was) that you have to do the TDC thing. if i'm just directly replacing it can i just pull it noting where rotor is pointing and then just make sure i put new one in same orienteation, just make sure cap is aligned the same way and the rotor is pointing to same wire post as one that came out? thanks and sorry if this is an ignorant question:)))-barbie
Thank you for your video I changed my self the distributor wires spark plugs router and cap Because previously I had a PO 300 and PO328 a misfiring code But still I have the codes after changing all that The only thing I didn't do was setting the timing a don't have the light gun but I placed the new distributor and router the same way it was before The engine stars very good but still like a mentioned before there is misfiring causing when I stop at lights it vibrates in a celeration on its own
Leniyems Victorero Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, it turns check engine lights off, it resets oil lights, it works on OBDI Ford, G.M, Chrysler, and 2 Toyota cables. You can test a car while driving. It'll show the coolent temp. sensor ° in Fahrenheit. It'll show the ISC % closed. The EGR valve % closed, MAP sensor voltages, MAF voltages and MORE!
Leniyems Victorero When installing the distributor, get it on #1 TDC on compression stroke on 0. Lift the distributor and point the rotor at #1 terminal on the cap. Turn the distributor way back opposite normal rotation. Lower the distributor and adjust for normal timing. Set the timing. Check codes and tests with the Actron CP9690. Replace the plug wires and plugs. Put antiseize on plug threads. Put silicone grease on the inside of the boot. Pull on the boot and never the wire. Check the wires for the connector inside or if it's on the plug. If it's on the plug, replace the plug wire.
Hi, i do same with mine years ago and boat come alive again but what about advance on boats vaccum advance do not apply, did you know on this engine how to del with advance?, Originally when mallory points distribuitor was working fine boat run 42 mph( but points give problems each time i use boat then i decide to change to HEI) and with this only runs 35mph. I was planning to design an cable linckage from throtle to replace vaccum diafragm mecanism, also another question is idle timing on this engine i search but i can´t find it ,i guess is about 6 to 10 degrees.
+Juan Pablo Ramirez My carb is not ported so I had no place to hook up the advanced timing, though I seen folks online teeing into the manifold vacuum. Thought about trying, but my boat runs just fine without doing so. I'm sure I am less efficient, but I'm ok with it. As far as timing, I looked mine up online, cannot remember what I had set it too, I want to say 12.
Thank´s, now i´m working on an atachment to make it mechanical link to distributor if it works will send you plans, by now i will print on 3d to test, if it works will send to cut stainless with laser
I think your base timing is low. 10 is probably the minimum. 15 is probably more realistic. More than that depends on the engine, fuel, altitude. Start by bumping the base timing. If that doesn't improve your top end I would find out what the total advance your HEI distributor provides and what RPM it is achieved at. I strongly discourage attempting some sort of manual timing advancement scheme. I also don't see a huge advantage to vacuum advance for anything other than getting out of the hole. After that mechanical is running the show.
@@jalenhawkins8931 not sure. There was a bump/nipple on my crankshaft pulley that when put under a timing light would show where it’s sitting. It had one of those pointers coming off of the timing cover. Every engine is different, this was on a 390 fe.
My dad used this method forever and it never fails 😂👍🏾now we all use this method that was passed on also and newer engines are even easier than an old school distributor 😅
Why all the thumbs down? Been doing it this way for 35 years when i cant see the valves. Looks correct to me, and the video is clear and consise with no time wasted. Thank you for you efforts.
Bump it till you feel the pressure but then you put some rubber hose down the cylinder and turn the engine by hand till the hose stops before going back down. Too far rotate it back around twice and watch it a little closer. That's TDC for sure.
@@kawonu2666 I recently used a screw driver.
All alone . 😞
@@jimmysapien9961 Just like with anything ,people love to overcomplicate things,stabbing a distributor is something easy to do but of course you need to follow certain parameters.
i just got a boat and never worked on a engine with a distributor. Well....never had to completely time a engine with a distributor. the whole time i was trying to start the engine at 0 degrees instead of 10-15 degrees BTDC duh! your my hero dude
This video is definitely showing it’s age a little, but man YOU CAME IN CLUTCH. I’m getting recruited by people to get engines started from scratch with timing and totally forgot the method and you explained it meticulously, didn’t miss a thing! Thanks for being informative, and producing a helpful, clear video!
BRO! THANK YOU!!!!!
I have a 63 Corvair and was havinbg difficulty with this. Every gear head that came out acted as if this was some "top secret" knowledge that they were only privy to know.
Anyhoo, very helpful very "Simple " talk and steps.
THANKS !
Nice video 👍 I found one day that a wine bottle cork, shaped down to a gradual point with a long screw attached worked quite well. Shove it in tight, then compression blows it out. Works well when access is limited.
Very nice video. An easy way to make a remote starter control is to take a tricicle handlegrip and thread a piece of 18-2 zip cord thru its hole and put the wires onto a doorbell button that mounts round in a hole. Its a perfect fit for the handlegrip. Tie a knot in the zipcord so it won't come out of the hole inside the grip. This keeps the tension off the switch hookup. then strip back the distance you require between the battery positive and the solenoid and install one allegator clip and one crocodile clip. This makes a good starting cord. Make it long enough to reach down to the timing marks.
Bill, from Tn. 🇺🇸
I've been doing that way for over 40 years ,thanks for posting to show others
Perfect! Saw a ton of videos, found yours on accident and is the best of all
very good video . explained very clearly and all the steps seem easy to follow . I don't know why other videos make it look so complicated . will be installing HEI on my 72 Buick Electra and will be doing this just like you've shown
Did my 72’ Chevy p/u 2- weeks ago 👍🏻 but used a screw driver . 🤔
Good video but can you have a tutorial on how to wire up that HEI distributor from a points/analog distributor? I think I wired mine wrong and I can't find any video on the proper wiring. Also the instructions I got for mine were vague.
By far the best timing video on TH-cam. Thumbs up and subscribed.
Yes great 👍🏻
Thank you so much. I almost pulled out the whole engine to reset the timing again. But I knew there had to be an easier way. Lucky I found your video.
I also have a 302 that is becoming a career project
Great job on the video. Just an opinion on the HEI distributors. I had one and found them very troublesome. They are extremely hard to set and maintain a reasonable (aka factory setting for total advance) total advance curve. Also they pack way too much into a oversized package and as such present a whole host of other ongoing issues. I took mine out and replaced it with a Pertronix unit. Way better and rock solid in reliability and performance. FYI
You can use a rag if you don't want to use your finger and you can just hand turn it. I've never used my finger or used a remote start.
If I past the 0 on top dead center will this damage my engine I have a chevy 327 or will I be able to rotate it back conter clock wise great video I need help with mines thanks
Looks like the harder way.
The easiest is the whistle method and you can buy them cheap or make your own.
A piece of tubing with a cone at one end and a whistle at the other. Place the cone end in the spark plug hole.
Turn the motor over and when that cyl is coming up on compression, you will hear the whistle and as you keep going, the whistle will stop and that is your TDC.
That will work, though the way I do it is pretty simple. ;)
THAAANK YOU, just needed a long lost refresher, and this is clear cut and straight forward. Much appreciation!
Nice! Was familiar with the wooden dowel trick but this is the real deal feel braille version I love it!
Good video as I was wondering how you find TDC on a non running engine
Thanx again.
Thank you great vid but seems like another step. What do i do when i find out the manufacturers setting for timing?
Thank you very much for the instruction even I have no knowledge about it . Great lesson.
I thought zero degrees was true TDC on your indicator, not 12 degrees?
Thank you! The best video I’ve found that explains in clear detail on the steps needed to do this. Thanks!
Thank you. I am about to rebuild/try to start an old 888 and would love to know where you found the manufacturers manual to see what the timing should be? Any chance you could share the manual?
I don't have a manual. ;) It has been timed by my ear. LOL
I got a great deal on a jump starter .I borrowed my dads lol😂
Thank you! Helped me immensely.
How do you know that the pressure u r feeling on ur finger is not the exhaust stroke?
+Ally Singh On the combustion stroke you will not be able to hold the pressure back.
Only time you will have air coming out the spark plug hole is on the compression stroke (both valves closed). During the exhaust stroke (exhaust valve open) the air will flow out the exhaust valve.
Because the exhaust valve is open. The cylinder will not build pressure.
Can't wait to see this boat on the water!
Thanks for sharing
Advance auto has them for 24.99. A nice decently built one
Wonderfully explained. Thank you!
amazing thanks for the best proper explanation yet!
Thanks!
Well done.
I bought this same distributor for my 302....i had a efi engine I swapped to a carb set up.please!!! Tell me how and also where the number one spark plug wire starts cause it does not show the number on cap! Thanks in advance!
There is no specific position for #1, as you technically can use any of them to start off on.
@@1D10CRACY seriously?? like literally just start number one anywhere I want?? and then plug up the rest for firing order??
Set the engine to top dead center on cylinder 1, line any one of the 8 positions of the distributor and button to a position and that will be your number 1 position.
@@1D10CRACY true, but it throw off your Plug wires if each one went to a certain spark plug !
Setting the timing would it work the same way on a 289 ford also
GREAT JOB!!!.. SUBBED
Finger in the hole! Classic. Thanks.
Toilet paper works better.
@@onewhoknowsrevenge6807 wrong Hole 😳
Hi I've completely lost my distributor mark when I took out the distributor for when engine was timed. How do I go about fixing this please.
Watch the video bro
😆
Exactly look at the video
hi 1D10, i just got a new dist. for my 1990 ford e350 econoline van 5.8. number one is so, so hard to get to. i've heard that if you're replacing a dist. from scratch (no idea where original was) that you have to do the TDC thing. if i'm just directly replacing it can i just pull it noting where rotor is pointing and then just make sure i put new one in same orienteation, just make sure cap is aligned the same way and the rotor is pointing to same wire post as one that came out? thanks and sorry if this is an ignorant question:)))-barbie
Hello I have a 81 cutlass supreme v6 231 with a carburetor will this method work on my car? If it does what should I hook the remote start up?
Yes it will . And you can run the remote to the starter.
2:40 did you ground out? lol
Good job !
when you marked your distributor cap im wondering how i would do that, how would i know where cylinder 1 is? can you please tell me? thanks
When you find top dead center for cylinder 1, where ever the button under the cap is pointing too is cylinder 1.
Thank you for the very understanding video
How did you turn it on my car has no key
Thank you for your video
I changed my self the distributor wires spark plugs router and cap
Because previously I had a PO 300 and PO328 a misfiring code
But still I have the codes after changing all that
The only thing I didn't do was setting the timing a don't have the light gun but I placed the new distributor and router the same way it was before
The engine stars very good but still like a mentioned before there is misfiring causing when I stop at lights it vibrates in a celeration on its own
Leniyems Victorero Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, it turns check engine lights off, it resets oil lights, it works on OBDI Ford, G.M, Chrysler, and 2 Toyota cables. You can test a car while driving. It'll show the coolent temp. sensor ° in Fahrenheit. It'll show the ISC % closed. The EGR valve % closed, MAP sensor voltages, MAF voltages and MORE!
Leniyems Victorero When installing the distributor, get it on #1 TDC on compression stroke on 0. Lift the distributor and point the rotor at #1 terminal on the cap. Turn the distributor way back opposite normal rotation. Lower the distributor and adjust for normal timing. Set the timing. Check codes and tests with the Actron CP9690. Replace the plug wires and plugs. Put antiseize on plug threads. Put silicone grease on the inside of the boot. Pull on the boot and never the wire. Check the wires for the connector inside or if it's on the plug. If it's on the plug, replace the plug wire.
@@martystevens3969 Exactly I did the same thang.
Bought a new D.U.I. Performance HEI
50,000 volts Coil running great & they have great service !
Do you have a link for the the distributor?
Sorry I do not, I purchased it on eBay.
Go to DUI PERFORMANCE - website 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
How do you know were to put the numbers on the cap?
The numbers on the cap are the firing order. One starts where your rotor is when you have the engine set to top dead center on cylinder one.
You have the motor in backwards... the distributor goes in the back 🤣🤣💪
Thanks heaps
I finally understand, thank you:)
What was that spark at the starter solenoid @ 2:40 time mark?
I don't think it was a spark. I think it was just a reflection of light off the silver sticker.
@@1D10CRACY Sure sounds like I near a snap at the same time I see a flash. No matter, excellent video and much appreciate you for sharing it.
Thanx
How do you know your at 14, also do a follow up video
You can see the needle point to 14 when the timing light flashes. The video really doesn't warrant a follow up.
Yeah I rewatched it, I understand now. Thanks man
Hi, i do same with mine years ago and boat come alive again but what about advance on boats vaccum advance do not apply, did you know on this engine how to del with advance?, Originally when mallory points distribuitor was working fine boat run 42 mph( but points give problems each time i use boat then i decide to change to HEI) and with this only runs 35mph. I was planning to design an cable linckage from throtle to replace vaccum diafragm mecanism, also another question is idle timing on this engine i search but i can´t find it ,i guess is about 6 to 10 degrees.
+Juan Pablo Ramirez My carb is not ported so I had no place to hook up the advanced timing, though I seen folks online teeing into the manifold vacuum. Thought about trying, but my boat runs just fine without doing so. I'm sure I am less efficient, but I'm ok with it. As far as timing, I looked mine up online, cannot remember what I had set it too, I want to say 12.
Thank´s, now i´m working on an atachment to make it mechanical link to distributor if it works will send you plans, by now i will print on 3d to test, if it works will send to cut stainless with laser
I think your base timing is low. 10 is probably the minimum. 15 is probably more realistic. More than that depends on the engine, fuel, altitude. Start by bumping the base timing. If that doesn't improve your top end I would find out what the total advance your HEI distributor provides and what RPM it is achieved at. I strongly discourage attempting some sort of manual timing advancement scheme. I also don't see a huge advantage to vacuum advance for anything other than getting out of the hole. After that mechanical is running the show.
manifold vac is not correct to tee into as the vac drops to 0 at WOT. Correct advance will not be achieved
Badging is wrong. The LH SlR/5000 had the decal in front of the front wheel, th 1976 LX SLR/5000 didn't.
There are no wheels, this engine is in a boat. LOL
What if the engine has no timing marks on it?
Have u found out where they are. I'm having same problem. I have a line on camshaft but can't find another mark to go off of
@@jalenhawkins8931 not sure. There was a bump/nipple on my crankshaft pulley that when put under a timing light would show where it’s sitting. It had one of those pointers coming off of the timing cover. Every engine is different, this was on a 390 fe.
OK. I have a 403. Im going to check today
T0 rolling stones