You guys are the first big detailing company I ever stumbled on - love your products. Thanks for giving me the confidence to fix my most recent coating high spots.
In my training, we were taught to before the ceramic coating, to wipe the surface with a panel wipe. We used Gyeon, then a ceramic prep spray, then the ceramic coating was applied.
I like this video, as it applies to any brand of coating, and any brand of polish, rather than specifically naming particular products as a promo for Adam’s products. I really appreciate that. 🚗🙂👍
You saved my bacon fella Applied my first attempt at ceramic coating yesterday to fully prepared Jaguar XJ Could believe how difficult it was given minimal instructions etc Loads of dark high spots in the panels Left one side alone luckily Came in searching for solutions came across your straightforward video exactly what I needed Got up early next day and polished out all panels and got rid of the blemishes Will now have to pluck up courage to try again! Thanks 😅
I did the same thing but not on the whole car. I was able to hand polish with microfiber applicator and level the coating without getting rid of it. It is still there but I caught it before 24 hours passed
Am just finishing up my own DIY applying Adam's Graphene Ceramic Coating (original formula, not advanced), and there were a couple unexpected things I ran into, partly because I did mine outside and not under artificial light. First, I was surprised that my prep resulted in a kind of dull, almost satin finish before applying the coating. Was happy to see that applying the coating restored the "shiny, wet" look. Working outside, I found that I couldn't see the coating flash due to lighting conditions. I then resorted to simply estimating by time, knowing from various videos to expect flashing to occur up to 2 minutes, so manually timed myself (estimation) and produced a fairly good result. But, as one might expect, there were some intermittent problems. I'd check back again in about 3-5 hours and see the cross hatches of my application in a combination of different angle and different light (again, this was outside). I was able to simply add another layer of coating and the problem was resolved. One patch in particular wasn't discovered until about 12 hours later and still was fixed by simply adding a new coat. All things considered, am happy with results to this point. Shortly after full curing, I'm then hopeful that I'll really get 7 years of outside protection from the sun!
Had the same challenge as you in not having a well-lit garage. One other tip they mention in another video is to go off of feel. Once the solution starts to feel tacky/sticky, it’s pretty well-cured. Time that, and you can sort of go off of feel.
Please remind viewers to also IPA wipe down after any polishing and before reapplying new coating. Oils left behind from polish will preventive coating from properly curing and diminish its protective properties.
After you use an abrasive shouldn’t you use surface prep to ensure any solvents left behind are removed from the surface before you reapply the ceramic coating?
How to remove ceramic coating from camera lens? I coated my tesla and didn’t properly remove/level it from edges of the camera lens and now edges are showing blurry on the screen. I used the Adams graphene ceramic coating advanced and it's been around 36 hrs at the time of posting this. Appreciate your help.
So, the liquid Ceramic Spray can be used as a leveling agent within 2 hours? Let's say you let it flash, but you're having a hard time seeing the rainbowing before you wipe, can you spray a dusting of the Ceramic Spray before doing the final wipe to avoid high spots?
I have a new car on the way...and have your kit. Knowing there are ways I can fix any mistakes I make gives me so much more confidence to do this for my very first time. Thanks for your great how to videos. I have some polish on the way too...just in case I have to make corrections before and after!
Great video... Wish I would have known this before my first Adams ceramic coating🥴 But no worries...I figured them out...had good success with Sonax perf. Finish & microfiber applicator pad...some light hand polishing took care of the high spots and the UV light helps tremendously to check coverage & for high spots...👏👏👍👍
Tried to coat my new painted trim pieces for my car but I ended up having a lot of noticeable "brush strokes" if you will when I took them outside in the sun. Tried to rehydrate but could not replicate these results. The coating was only on the pieces for about 45min to an hour when I tried this. 🤷♂️
By the way.. when you say “Cure”, what you really mean is “Flash”. Ceramic coat’s “flash time” is typically when it ready to wipe off (typically second to minutes) vs “cure time” is when the ceramic coating hardens and is safe to be driven (typically 2/3 days and up to a week sometimes to be fully cured).
it was ok because they created an additional 'back link' to their website using google's youtube app. Backlinks are a top way marketers ensure their site has high SEO rankings so that said marketer's target search terms people use when they search google shows up in this case Adams' website in the first few results of the user's search results.
@@barbaroacosta5335 it’s not ok to do so. The bond in that spot is going to be weaker. But installers won’t redo a whole panels. So this video is more with fixing a mistake on high spots. I don’t ceramic my own cars. A good 4 times a year of a paint sealant and wax is cheaper than 1200+ ceramic coating. Plus you have to pay to maintain that coating. From washes and spray wax. To reapplying. Cause you can get tar or rough spots from contaminates where you will clay the car again. As a professional detailer to a customer. My advice is don’t put faith in ceramic coating. It’s pretty hyped up and not worth the cost.
Thank you for this video. I was coating the roof of my Jeep Cherokee and the sky opened up.... The coating ran ALL OVER the body and now the entire thing has drip marks and streaks. So in my case I'd just need to buy polish and a few good pads...
IPA is useless against heavy carrier oils on majority of compounds and polishes. You should be using a panel prep solution. You can make some with 10 oz acetone and 22 oz original formula windex in a 32 oz spray bottle.
I used the graphene kit as instructed and had awesome results. I did get a little over ambitious covering too much area all at the same time and some of the ceramic coating did begin to set up before I could polish it off. I used a plush towel with the boost spray and it evened out beautifully. On my black and chrome road king the ceramic coating makes the bike appear brand new. Great products from Adam’s! 👍🏻
Really great and helpful video. The only thing you forgot to show, was to clean the surface with IPA/panel whipe between polishing and reapplying the coating.
Hello, thank you for the video. Question, I had a graphene coating (Adam's) put on my black sedan by a "professional" coating installer. Fast forward to 90 days since applied, I noticed the other day in the sunlight a few streaks in the application. Why did I not see that before? Good question, simple answer is, I do not drive the vehicle that much. But now that I noticed it, I reached out to the installer and guess what, they are no longer located in IL and are now in Arizona. So, back to the question I have to ask, can I reapply another layer of the coating or, do I have to wait years before applying again?
Hi JazzMan, great questions, and sorry you are having issues with the coating on your vehicle! Typically streaks in a coating application have been there since application, but you may not have noticed them in certain light conditions. These streaks are due to either letting the coating flash too long before removing the residue, or not wiping away the residue thoroughly enough. They sometimes appear due to overlap lines with the applicator, or uneven pressure with the applicator when applying the coating. On a super sunny day (or under garage lighting), you may not even see these streaks, as bright sunlight typically hides them; however, if it is a slightly cloudy or overcast day, that is when these streaks will be much more apparent, especially on darker-colored vehicles. They can be fixed though! We would recommend trying Brilliant Glaze on the streak areas - wipe it in back and forth using a Red Hex Grip Applicator with slight pressure, allow it to haze for 10-20 seconds, then buff off the residue with a plush microfiber towel. If that does not fix the issue, you may need to go to a machine polisher with our white Polish and a White Foam Pad, since it has been cured for 90 days now. You can reapply another layer of our Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating for example, which provides around 6 months or more of protection on a daily driven vehicle, and is very easy to apply. Reapplying another layer of the coating most likely will not fix the issue in this case though - reapplying a second layer can usually resolve the streaking problem within the first few hours of applying the ceramic coating but not after several months. If you are still having issues, please send some pictures to "tips@adamspolishes.com" and we can assist you further!
Very informative, feels more safe now to use ceramic coating. I always felt insecure to use it as I was afraid of those high spots and marks I can't get out of the paint anymore. Btw. Use ipa after you polish and before you reapply coating.
This video is immensely useful. I still don't dare apply a ceramic coating myself, however. I am a professional mechanic, not a detailer. Each to his own I guess. :-)
@@jond8013 Streaking and high spots. Source: I messed up. But I also have a dented used car, just that the paint hasn't faded yet since it was garage kept, and now it's not, so I wanted to keep it that way.
recently my igl graphene coating went bad ended up with darker spot and developed water spots after 2 months Spent 2 hours just polish the hood to remove the coating Extremely tough job to remove all coating from the car
I think this video is very helpful in at least providing confidence to give it a shot, knowing there are options … but also driving the point others have said, “work on a small area or panel at a time”.
I totally agree with the steps provided in his video. For my ‘23 MY, white polish & pad worked perfectly. Completed 1/3 of my car in 2 hours. Do what the guy suggests: Don’t do the whole car at one time.
Thanks for the video. I just applied Adam's Advanced Graphene coating on a 2 month old Black Honda HRV (btw you can't see no rainbow on a black car in a normal home garage lighting so that idea went out the window) which had swirl marks galore from the dealer (even on the glass). After prepping for 2 days (almost 16 hours) when I started applying it as a complete newbie to coatings, the first panel I did was the hood copying Pan the Organizer's video. Bad idea. Should have done some small hidden panel because unlike him I am in central Florida in my home's garage and do not have AC running controlling temp and humidity. Most people don't. The coating flashed so fast that I should have stuck with maybe a 2 x 2 section. My whole hood panel had dark and light spots all over and I did not see that till 8 hours later. Tonight at 18 hours, I was able to take a microfiber applicator and rub in some P4 polish I was using from Chemical guys in it and hand polish the hood in sections and using Adam's plush towel that came with the kit wipe it clean and buff it lightly and levelled the coating on that panel. There were some other streaks elsewhere and I used Adam's Prep Wipe spray, with a soft towel to rub into the coating for 15 to 20 seconds in sections and then use that plush towel to level them out. That worked even at 18 hours in Florida. I inspected the car in the dark garage with the black light and the coating is still there on the whole surface.
Sorry about the application issues but glad to hear you were able to resolve them without too much trouble. Coatings definitely flash and react on the surface much more quickly in high temperatures and especially high humidity compared to cooler temps and low humidity!
@@AdamsPolishes Your suggestion of trying first in a small side area to see how the coating reacts and sets is a very good suggestion to find the right tempo. I am prepping my wife's VW ID4 now to do the same coating on it
After you applied the polish to remove the high spot ( which I have done in the past on small areas) you applied the coating over the top without using isopropyl/ panel wipe to remove any polish? I feel the coating wouldn't adhere 100% to the surface and will wear off quickly! Just my opinion though.
If you have to use polish and the polishing machine to remove a high spot, should I use an IPA wipe before reapplying the coating in the spot I just polished? To remove all the polishing material?
Hi Jay, yes we would recommend using a small amount of our Surface Prep with a clean plush microfiber towel over that area to remove any polishing oils left behind, before reapplying the coating.
So I’m looking to apply ceramic coating to a Satin wrap. So I’m don’t try think polish will be a acceptable fix as there is not clear coat . I’m in no rush to do my own car so hoping that if I get uneven/high spots I can add more coating to level out?
I applied ceramic coating to my hood as a practice, since I never did it before so I was afraid to do the whole car. Well the coating job turned out very well and I'm happy with the look on my hood. However I noticed a drip that fell on my bumper and ran down. How do I remove that run, Its very high that I can feel with my finger and looks awful.
I had a literal nightmare for my first time using this the other day. We had a heat wave in Cali. It was 95f even in my shop. High spots GALORE. and nearly immediately after applying. I had to run a 30 second cure time... working on a 2 ft section at a time. Anyone have any pointers? Did I do something wrong?
Awesome video! I’ve been thinking of using your Graphene on my Tesla but it’s been a little intimidating. So glad to see it’s easy to fix high spots or areas I missed
What happens if a ceramic coating gets wet before it has had a chance to cure I see they all say don't get wet for at least 4 hours though for someone whos working outside the weather may not cooperate I have seen it rain on a beautiful day and catch you out.
I applied Gtechniq Bike Ceramic coating to my brand new TREK Road bike and the result was a disaster . I followed the instructions but waited too long to wipe it off ( 3-4 minutes instead of 1-2) The result was high spots and clouding. In the sun it looks like a little kid got handprints all over the frame.. I went to a detail shop where they used a cutting compound and orbital polisher and 1000-200 grit sanding with no luck. I opted to take the bike back home and was advised by Techniq USA to try RUPES yellow fine polish and the Gtechniq microfiber towel that came with the kit. I doubt it will do much more than the cutting compound used at the detail ship with the orbital. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Wow, what a perfect topic and video. I downloaded it for future reference. Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have a case of another company Si02 ceramic coatings, so would Adam's Graphene spray still work on the other coating even if it's not graphene? Thanks.
I dont get it. Can you fix small areas like shown in the video? I hand polished a spot, Re aplied coating, let it cure and wiped. It left a clear line where i had polished the previous coating off. 😩 Is the video misleading, do i have to redo my whole panel?
What if you did a contact-less wash with strip wash in a foam cannon? Would that remove the oils but leave the coating intact without any abrasive or need to recoat(even just for peace of mind)?
I don't think high humidity speeds up the cure time. Temperature does though.. but not high humidity. Low humidity and high temps is the fastest cure time.
My question is you used a mil abrasive polish to remove the high spot yet you applied a ceramic coating on top of the mil abrasive polish. with the oils in the polish would it not allow the coating to stick to the car . I don’t get it
Has anyone had issues with mf lint sticking to the cured coating while leveling? I ask because I've used multiple types of mf's from the big brands and they all seem to leave tiny crystal like lint particles behind while drying or wiping down panels and glass. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I plan on coating my Stinger soon and plan on getting TRC's Edgeless Pearl towels to level. Also, I've been reading that the Graphene in Adam's Graphene coating is a dust and nothing more. If this is the case how does it help improve hardness/longevity? I ask because I plan on buying Adam's Advanced Graphene, Thanks!
Hi there, great question! We have not witnessed any adverse behavior or performance ability on ceramic coating any automotive cameras - backup, windshield, side and front cameras, mirrors, and so on. You MUST make sure you wipe away the coating residue from the camera lenses, just as you do on paint, glass, lights, etc. If you do not wipe away the coating residue, it could become cloudy and impair the camera if the coating residue were to dry on the lens.
When I pulled my truck out into the sun, 12 hours later, the hood was extremely inconsistent. Mostly places I had trouble reaching. The polish on an applicator technique worked incredibly well. Just drag the applicator over the areas (no real pressure) then buff out with a towel. Works on glass as well. I wouldn't start this project without some polish on hand.
I have applied adams graphene ceramic spray to my Tesla and it looks amazing. However the windshield has once spot where there are dry water spots and I need to remove the ceramic to completely clean the windshield. Any idea how to remove this?
after using a machine polisher, wouldn't you use coating prep to take that off first before applying new coating? Or because since it has a base coating on it, you don't need to prep the surface again?
I was actually getting ready to mention this, yes you would use a panel prep, this is a bad example.. if this was a acrylic base polish you could allow the polish to cure for 15-18 hours and re-coat or us a UV lamp to speed it up
No chance. after ceramic coating usage, the applicator must be thrown out because the coating residue on the suede is going to become small glass sharpnels.
Hi Andrew, yes we would recommend using our Surface Prep included with the Graphene Ceramic Coating Kit, after polishing and prior to applying the coating itself. You want the surface as clean and as bare as possible before applying the coating for best adhesion and results.
My kid saw what I showed him, then didn't do it right. It's been a couple of days... 😢 What polish is that?? I'm definitely going to have to machine polish it. :( But, live and learn. We'll fix it.
Nice, this was exactly the video i needed. I´m about to apply my first ever ceramic coating (Avalon King) once we get better weather and was worried for a number of things that could happen, just because i had no idea what to expect. But this was very reassuring, can´t wait to finally apply it now! Thanks!
Nice! I'm planning on applying the same to my car. In one way, lucky I live in an apartment so not too worried about the weather as my car's in the basement.
@@sensiblewheels Isn´t it too humid there if it´s a literal basement? Or is it heated? The temperature isn´t even worrying me too much, but the humidity around here was on average around 80% the last weeks. My garage doesn´t really help there... Anyways, wish you much success for the coating, can´t wait myself to see how it looks on my Boston Green Metallic! ;)
@@Schmitzelhaus Thanks! Avlonking mentioned on their website that anything below 5° and above a humidity of 70% is very bad for the curing process. I've already ordered mine and in the forecast I see a few days where the temperature (both low and high) as well humidity is okay to let the coating cure. It's not a heated basement! Good luck with yours too! Let us know it goes.
@@damiendegrasse Well, I waited for a while for the Temperature to raise and humidity to drop and I still ended up with tonnes of high spots. I did it In a basement with only a flashlight! So I couldn't see those high spots so loads of light is recommended.
Scott Mattern gotta get rid of them. I’ve washed a ceramic coating suede applicator immediately after just to see how it would react. The suede is much rougher and will create marring on the paint
You guys are the first big detailing company I ever stumbled on - love your products. Thanks for giving me the confidence to fix my most recent coating high spots.
Thank you Jack! We certainly appreciate the kind words and thank you for your business!
This was one of your better videos!! Very informative and great camera angle to be able to see the high spots.
IPA after polish to remove the oils before applying coating to ensure proper adhesion!
What happens if I dont
Might not need it
@@Mr.duke10783 you cry
@@sebastian-daquanglocknerjr1883 lmao
He forgot to, didn't he?
In my training, we were taught to before the ceramic coating, to wipe the surface with a panel wipe. We used Gyeon, then a ceramic prep spray, then the ceramic coating was applied.
I like this video, as it applies to any brand of coating, and any brand of polish, rather than specifically naming particular products as a promo for Adam’s products. I really appreciate that.
🚗🙂👍
You saved my bacon fella
Applied my first attempt at ceramic coating yesterday to fully prepared Jaguar XJ
Could believe how difficult it was given minimal instructions etc
Loads of dark high spots in the panels
Left one side alone luckily
Came in searching for solutions came across your straightforward video exactly what I needed
Got up early next day and polished out all panels and got rid of the blemishes
Will now have to pluck up courage to try again!
Thanks 😅
I did the same thing but not on the whole car. I was able to hand polish with microfiber applicator and level the coating without getting rid of it. It is still there but I caught it before 24 hours passed
Am just finishing up my own DIY applying Adam's Graphene Ceramic Coating (original formula, not advanced), and there were a couple unexpected things I ran into, partly because I did mine outside and not under artificial light.
First, I was surprised that my prep resulted in a kind of dull, almost satin finish before applying the coating. Was happy to see that applying the coating restored the "shiny, wet" look.
Working outside, I found that I couldn't see the coating flash due to lighting conditions. I then resorted to simply estimating by time, knowing from various videos to expect flashing to occur up to 2 minutes, so manually timed myself (estimation) and produced a fairly good result.
But, as one might expect, there were some intermittent problems.
I'd check back again in about 3-5 hours and see the cross hatches of my application in a combination of different angle and different light (again, this was outside). I was able to simply add another layer of coating and the problem was resolved. One patch in particular wasn't discovered until about 12 hours later and still was fixed by simply adding a new coat.
All things considered, am happy with results to this point. Shortly after full curing, I'm then hopeful that I'll really get 7 years of outside protection from the sun!
Had the same challenge as you in not having a well-lit garage. One other tip they mention in another video is to go off of feel. Once the solution starts to feel tacky/sticky, it’s pretty well-cured. Time that, and you can sort of go off of feel.
Please remind viewers to also IPA wipe down after any polishing and before reapplying new coating. Oils left behind from polish will preventive coating from properly curing and diminish its protective properties.
Ipa?
@@Aninebula Isopropyl Alcohol
I was thinking the same. That has got to be an issue with bonding.
After you use an abrasive shouldn’t you use surface prep to ensure any solvents left behind are removed from the surface before you reapply the ceramic coating?
Yes. You want to hit it with an IPA to ensure best likelihood for the ceramic coat to bond with the clear coat.
I guess the best way is taping a square to do abrasive,then use IPA to wipe before reapplying ceramic coating.
How to remove ceramic coating from camera lens? I coated my tesla and didn’t properly remove/level it from edges of the camera lens and now edges are showing blurry on the screen. I used the Adams graphene ceramic coating advanced and it's been around 36 hrs at the time of posting this. Appreciate your help.
So, the liquid Ceramic Spray can be used as a leveling agent within 2 hours?
Let's say you let it flash, but you're having a hard time seeing the rainbowing before you wipe, can you spray a dusting of the Ceramic Spray before doing the final wipe to avoid high spots?
This video helps eliminate the fear as beginner myself. Thanks for this video
I have a new car on the way...and have your kit. Knowing there are ways I can fix any mistakes I make gives me so much more confidence to do this for my very first time. Thanks for your great how to videos. I have some polish on the way too...just in case I have to make corrections before and after!
Great video...
Wish I would have known this before my first Adams ceramic coating🥴
But no worries...I figured them out...had good success with Sonax perf. Finish & microfiber applicator pad...some light hand polishing took care of the high spots and the UV light helps tremendously to check coverage & for high spots...👏👏👍👍
Thank you for this video! Now I feel more confident that I can fix my mistakes.
There is too much taboo behind ceramic coating. Thank you for clarifying the easy of fixing any screwups!
I was surprised he didn’t wipe with IPA after using polish for the latter high spots, before reapplying more coating.
Tried to coat my new painted trim pieces for my car but I ended up having a lot of noticeable "brush strokes" if you will when I took them outside in the sun. Tried to rehydrate but could not replicate these results. The coating was only on the pieces for about 45min to an hour when I tried this. 🤷♂️
By the way.. when you say “Cure”, what you really mean is “Flash”. Ceramic coat’s “flash time” is typically when it ready to wipe off (typically second to minutes) vs “cure time” is when the ceramic coating hardens and is safe to be driven (typically 2/3 days and up to a week sometimes to be fully cured).
This is why I use adam’s products. Not only do they have great products they have great tutorials as wel
That sweet sweet labeling on the ceram coatings for easy following of the video. Prime video production, even two years ago.
Why was it ok to reapply the coating ontop of polish instead of using a panel wipe or surface prep first?
I'd like to know too.
I've just thought the same thing. Definitely messed up there.
it was ok because they created an additional 'back link' to their website using google's youtube app.
Backlinks are a top way marketers ensure their site has high SEO rankings so that said marketer's target search terms people use when they search google shows up in this case Adams' website in the first few results of the user's search results.
@@theconnectedchris305 wha?
@@barbaroacosta5335 it’s not ok to do so. The bond in that spot is going to be weaker. But installers won’t redo a whole panels. So this video is more with fixing a mistake on high spots. I don’t ceramic my own cars. A good 4 times a year of a paint sealant and wax is cheaper than 1200+ ceramic coating. Plus you have to pay to maintain that coating. From washes and spray wax. To reapplying. Cause you can get tar or rough spots from contaminates where you will clay the car again. As a professional detailer to a customer. My advice is don’t put faith in ceramic coating. It’s pretty hyped up and not worth the cost.
Thank you for this video. I was coating the roof of my Jeep Cherokee and the sky opened up.... The coating ran ALL OVER the body and now the entire thing has drip marks and streaks. So in my case I'd just need to buy polish and a few good pads...
Great products I have been using them for years. The industry makes it out like ceramic coating is so hard to do. It's easier than old-school waxing.
No wipe down with IPA b4 reapplying the coating?
i was wondering the same .
Maybe the IPA will 'hurt' the good leveled coating you applied before?
IPA is useless against heavy carrier oils on majority of compounds and polishes. You should be using a panel prep solution. You can make some with 10 oz acetone and 22 oz original formula windex in a 32 oz spray bottle.
I used the graphene kit as instructed and had awesome results. I did get a little over ambitious covering too much area all at the same time and some of the ceramic coating did begin to set up before I could polish it off. I used a plush towel with the boost spray and it evened out beautifully. On my black and chrome road king the ceramic coating makes the bike appear brand new. Great products from Adam’s! 👍🏻
That right there is the key to ceramic coating. Little areas start to finish then move on.
That rehydrating trick is cool. Reminds me of taking old dry erase off of a whiteboard
Really great and helpful video. The only thing you forgot to show, was to clean the surface with IPA/panel whipe between polishing and reapplying the coating.
If it doesn't matter how perfect it looks, will a thicker coat provide more longer lasting protection???
You do not remove polish residu with an IPA solution before re apply the coating?
Hello, thank you for the video. Question, I had a graphene coating (Adam's) put on my black sedan by a "professional" coating installer. Fast forward to 90 days since applied, I noticed the other day in the sunlight a few streaks in the application. Why did I not see that before? Good question, simple answer is, I do not drive the vehicle that much. But now that I noticed it, I reached out to the installer and guess what, they are no longer located in IL and are now in Arizona. So, back to the question I have to ask, can I reapply another layer of the coating or, do I have to wait years before applying again?
Hi JazzMan, great questions, and sorry you are having issues with the coating on your vehicle! Typically streaks in a coating application have been there since application, but you may not have noticed them in certain light conditions. These streaks are due to either letting the coating flash too long before removing the residue, or not wiping away the residue thoroughly enough. They sometimes appear due to overlap lines with the applicator, or uneven pressure with the applicator when applying the coating. On a super sunny day (or under garage lighting), you may not even see these streaks, as bright sunlight typically hides them; however, if it is a slightly cloudy or overcast day, that is when these streaks will be much more apparent, especially on darker-colored vehicles. They can be fixed though! We would recommend trying Brilliant Glaze on the streak areas - wipe it in back and forth using a Red Hex Grip Applicator with slight pressure, allow it to haze for 10-20 seconds, then buff off the residue with a plush microfiber towel. If that does not fix the issue, you may need to go to a machine polisher with our white Polish and a White Foam Pad, since it has been cured for 90 days now. You can reapply another layer of our Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating for example, which provides around 6 months or more of protection on a daily driven vehicle, and is very easy to apply. Reapplying another layer of the coating most likely will not fix the issue in this case though - reapplying a second layer can usually resolve the streaking problem within the first few hours of applying the ceramic coating but not after several months. If you are still having issues, please send some pictures to "tips@adamspolishes.com" and we can assist you further!
I about had a cow when I found a high spot near the door. Thanks to this video...problem solved. Thanks Adam's
Really cool people here ! i used to be their fedex guy . Its cool seeing you again joe . We still have to go golf !!
Very informative, feels more safe now to use ceramic coating. I always felt insecure to use it as I was afraid of those high spots and marks I can't get out of the paint anymore. Btw. Use ipa after you polish and before you reapply coating.
I do 15-18 coatings a month and I am sitting here right now fixing this job I did. It was a 97 degree day and 78° humidity
So how long do you let your ceramic coating cure for before wiping it off? And do you use the Adam’s graphene ceramic/advanced ?
Why do you not have to spray the prep spray after you polished it?
Watched this video and this trick worked even after I had high spots from 2 months ago.
This video is immensely useful. I still don't dare apply a ceramic coating myself, however. I am a professional mechanic, not a detailer. Each to his own I guess. :-)
What happens if you mess up?
It’s as easy as waxing your car.
@@jond8013 Streaking and high spots. Source: I messed up. But I also have a dented used car, just that the paint hasn't faded yet since it was garage kept, and now it's not, so I wanted to keep it that way.
recently my igl graphene coating went bad ended up with darker spot and developed water spots after 2 months
Spent 2 hours just polish the hood to remove the coating
Extremely tough job to remove all coating from the car
Thanks! I used this method and helped me correct a dumb DIY mistake.
thank you, very helpful as im starting my detailing journey
I think this video is very helpful in at least providing confidence to give it a shot, knowing there are options … but also driving the point others have said, “work on a small area or panel at a time”.
This will probably be the most highly watched video of the bunch.
If you spot correct a high spot and reapply a coating it will be a lighter spot. Usually have to do the whole panel.
This is not always true, depends on the coating but yes I completely agree on that with a lot of coatings
I just went through this. Had to machine polish high spots. I don’t find the advanced coatings, either spray or bottle, to be very forgiving.
Should you have used I.p.a after polishing compound before reapplying coating?
i thought the same, plus, taking the car in the sun while ceramic coating is curing? dont't know about that
How can i remove Adams Ceramic Coating Advance high spot from PPF without messing up the PPF?
So can I use UV light when removing coating to make sure it’s all gone?
thankls fella, great insight i feel much more confident armed with this knowledge, cheers and keep up the utube vids fella, i am a fan..
I totally agree with the steps provided in his video. For my ‘23 MY, white polish & pad worked perfectly. Completed 1/3 of my car in 2 hours. Do what the guy suggests: Don’t do the whole car at one time.
Thanks for the video. I just applied Adam's Advanced Graphene coating on a 2 month old Black Honda HRV (btw you can't see no rainbow on a black car in a normal home garage lighting so that idea went out the window) which had swirl marks galore from the dealer (even on the glass). After prepping for 2 days (almost 16 hours) when I started applying it as a complete newbie to coatings, the first panel I did was the hood copying Pan the Organizer's video. Bad idea. Should have done some small hidden panel because unlike him I am in central Florida in my home's garage and do not have AC running controlling temp and humidity. Most people don't. The coating flashed so fast that I should have stuck with maybe a 2 x 2 section. My whole hood panel had dark and light spots all over and I did not see that till 8 hours later. Tonight at 18 hours, I was able to take a microfiber applicator and rub in some P4 polish I was using from Chemical guys in it and hand polish the hood in sections and using Adam's plush towel that came with the kit wipe it clean and buff it lightly and levelled the coating on that panel. There were some other streaks elsewhere and I used Adam's Prep Wipe spray, with a soft towel to rub into the coating for 15 to 20 seconds in sections and then use that plush towel to level them out. That worked even at 18 hours in Florida. I inspected the car in the dark garage with the black light and the coating is still there on the whole surface.
Sorry about the application issues but glad to hear you were able to resolve them without too much trouble. Coatings definitely flash and react on the surface much more quickly in high temperatures and especially high humidity compared to cooler temps and low humidity!
@@AdamsPolishes Your suggestion of trying first in a small side area to see how the coating reacts and sets is a very good suggestion to find the right tempo. I am prepping my wife's VW ID4 now to do the same coating on it
After you applied the polish to remove the high spot ( which I have done in the past on small areas) you applied the coating over the top without using isopropyl/ panel wipe to remove any polish? I feel the coating wouldn't adhere 100% to the surface and will wear off quickly! Just my opinion though.
If you have to use polish and the polishing machine to remove a high spot, should I use an IPA wipe before reapplying the coating in the spot I just polished? To remove all the polishing material?
Hi Jay, yes we would recommend using a small amount of our Surface Prep with a clean plush microfiber towel over that area to remove any polishing oils left behind, before reapplying the coating.
you blew my mind with the uv light! great video!
Excellent information ✊Would love to use Adams garage to do my car.
Big D from what i see here if Adams did your car they would have it for approx. 9 days.
If no action is taken to remove high spots, would they dissipate/ disappear over time as the coating breaks down?
So I’m looking to apply ceramic coating to a Satin wrap. So I’m don’t try think polish will be a acceptable fix as there is not clear coat . I’m in no rush to do my own car so hoping that if I get uneven/high spots I can add more coating to level out?
If i have half the ceramic advanced bottle left, how long is shelf life?
I applied ceramic coating to my hood as a practice, since I never did it before so I was afraid to do the whole car. Well the coating job turned out very well and I'm happy with the look on my hood. However I noticed a drip that fell on my bumper and ran down. How do I remove that run, Its very high that I can feel with my finger and looks awful.
What should I do to remove high spots and black long strips
Great Video, I just did my first application of Ceramic and definitely have high spots. This video was spot on!
This is such a helpful video. You guys make great content!
I had a literal nightmare for my first time using this the other day. We had a heat wave in Cali. It was 95f even in my shop. High spots GALORE. and nearly immediately after applying. I had to run a 30 second cure time... working on a 2 ft section at a time. Anyone have any pointers? Did I do something wrong?
Awesome video! I’ve been thinking of using your Graphene on my Tesla but it’s been a little intimidating. So glad to see it’s easy to fix high spots or areas I missed
Do you have a Tesla?
@@ImAHelicopter11 I do
How long should you let the Graphene coating sit before whipping off
What happens if a ceramic coating gets wet before it has had a chance to cure I see they all say don't get wet for at least 4 hours though for someone whos working outside the weather may not cooperate I have seen it rain on a beautiful day and catch you out.
Can I ask how much prep work do I need to ceramic coat a brand new car
I applied Gtechniq Bike Ceramic coating to my brand new TREK Road bike and the result was a disaster . I followed the instructions but waited too long to wipe it off ( 3-4 minutes instead of 1-2) The result was high spots and clouding. In the sun it looks like a little kid got handprints all over the frame.. I went to a detail shop where they used a cutting compound and orbital polisher and 1000-200 grit sanding with no luck. I opted to take the bike back home and was advised by Techniq USA to try RUPES yellow fine polish and the Gtechniq microfiber towel that came with the kit. I doubt it will do much more than the cutting compound used at the detail ship with the orbital. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Would it be the same process if it was left on the glass (side mirror) for more than 24 hours? Thanks.
Wow, what a perfect topic and video. I downloaded it for future reference. Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have a case of another company Si02 ceramic coatings, so would Adam's Graphene spray still work on the other coating even if it's not graphene? Thanks.
Would a highspot from a coating create a dark spot on the paint of the car?
This video should have a lot more views.
I dont get it. Can you fix small areas like shown in the video? I hand polished a spot, Re aplied coating, let it cure and wiped. It left a clear line where i had polished the previous coating off. 😩 Is the video misleading, do i have to redo my whole panel?
What if you did a contact-less wash with strip wash in a foam cannon? Would that remove the oils but leave the coating intact without any abrasive or need to recoat(even just for peace of mind)?
What if your high spots are a few days off and only on the glass?
I don't think high humidity speeds up the cure time. Temperature does though.. but not high humidity. Low humidity and high temps is the fastest cure time.
No panel wipe between polish and ceramic application????
My question is you used a mil abrasive polish to remove the high spot yet you applied a ceramic coating on top of the mil abrasive polish. with the oils in the polish would it not allow the coating to stick to the car . I don’t get it
Has anyone had issues with mf lint sticking to the cured coating while leveling? I ask because I've used multiple types of mf's from the big brands and they all seem to leave tiny crystal like lint particles behind while drying or wiping down panels and glass. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I plan on coating my Stinger soon and plan on getting TRC's Edgeless Pearl towels to level.
Also, I've been reading that the Graphene in Adam's Graphene coating is a dust and nothing more. If this is the case how does it help improve hardness/longevity? I ask because I plan on buying Adam's Advanced Graphene, Thanks!
Should u use ipa to remove the polishing oils before reapplying the coating or do u not have to
it looks soooo much easier on black. I've done 3 white vehicles and it is the hardest thing ever. Not sure there is a color harder than white.
Is this safe to put over the lenses on my car's cameras? Tesla Model Y. Im wondering if it would have adverse effects on auto pilot?
Hi there, great question! We have not witnessed any adverse behavior or performance ability on ceramic coating any automotive cameras - backup, windshield, side and front cameras, mirrors, and so on. You MUST make sure you wipe away the coating residue from the camera lenses, just as you do on paint, glass, lights, etc. If you do not wipe away the coating residue, it could become cloudy and impair the camera if the coating residue were to dry on the lens.
Great video Joe, thanks for putting it up there. It answered a lot of questions!
How about using a bit of surface prep on it????.. I mean on the high spot
When I pulled my truck out into the sun, 12 hours later, the hood was extremely inconsistent. Mostly places I had trouble reaching. The polish on an applicator technique worked incredibly well. Just drag the applicator over the areas (no real pressure) then buff out with a towel. Works on glass as well. I wouldn't start this project without some polish on hand.
awesome video the best i have ever seen very well explained.
If the application is uneven, will it shows imperfections under the sun or any weather conditions?
I have applied adams graphene ceramic spray to my Tesla and it looks amazing. However the windshield has once spot where there are dry water spots and I need to remove the ceramic to completely clean the windshield. Any idea how to remove this?
after using a machine polisher, wouldn't you use coating prep to take that off first before applying new coating? Or because since it has a base coating on it, you don't need to prep the surface again?
I was actually getting ready to mention this, yes you would use a panel prep, this is a bad example.. if this was a acrylic base polish you could allow the polish to cure for 15-18 hours and re-coat or us a UV lamp to speed it up
Can you get the blue hand polish to fix hot spots?
If you're reapplying the coating after polishing don't you need to use a polish remover first to remove the oils?
What’s the best way to clean the applicators that have been used for the ceramic coating???
Garbage after ceramic use.
No chance. after ceramic coating usage, the applicator must be thrown out because the coating residue on the suede is going to become small glass sharpnels.
I thinking between polish & second application of the coating you need panel wipe to remove polish residue to ensure perfect bonding.
Notice you apply ceramic coating directly after polish? Most preps ask to IPA or equivalent after polish and before coating.
Hi Andrew, yes we would recommend using our Surface Prep included with the Graphene Ceramic Coating Kit, after polishing and prior to applying the coating itself. You want the surface as clean and as bare as possible before applying the coating for best adhesion and results.
My kid saw what I showed him, then didn't do it right. It's been a couple of days... 😢 What polish is that?? I'm definitely going to have to machine polish it. :( But, live and learn. We'll fix it.
Nice, this was exactly the video i needed. I´m about to apply my first ever ceramic coating (Avalon King) once we get better weather
and was worried for a number of things that could happen, just because i had no idea what to expect.
But this was very reassuring, can´t wait to finally apply it now! Thanks!
Nice! I'm planning on applying the same to my car. In one way, lucky I live in an apartment so not too worried about the weather as my car's in the basement.
@@sensiblewheels Isn´t it too humid there if it´s a literal basement? Or is it heated? The temperature isn´t even worrying me too much, but the humidity around here was on average around 80% the last weeks. My garage doesn´t really help there...
Anyways, wish you much success for the coating, can´t wait myself to see how it looks on my Boston Green Metallic! ;)
@@Schmitzelhaus Thanks! Avlonking mentioned on their website that anything below 5° and above a humidity of 70% is very bad for the curing process.
I've already ordered mine and in the forecast I see a few days where the temperature (both low and high) as well humidity is okay to let the coating cure.
It's not a heated basement!
Good luck with yours too! Let us know it goes.
@@sensiblewheels I have to be careful, my humidity levels are around 80-90% right now
@@damiendegrasse Well, I waited for a while for the Temperature to raise and humidity to drop and I still ended up with tonnes of high spots.
I did it In a basement with only a flashlight! So I couldn't see those high spots so loads of light is recommended.
Is there a way to salvage those suede applicators, like soak immediately in APC, or are they done after being used with a coating?
Scott Mattern gotta get rid of them. I’ve washed a ceramic coating suede applicator immediately after just to see how it would react. The suede is much rougher and will create marring on the paint
@@ethanlinkous5620 thanks
How many minutes does it take for the ceramic coating to cure the paint
If used on interior trim, what is the method of removal?
Can u only ceramic coat black vehicles with this ceramic coating