I can't thank you enough for taking the time to create this video !! I'm sure I will watch I multiple times... I'm working just now on my 1950 3100 and really needed the info on the brakes. Again, much appreciated !!
The heater in the 49 3100 is the original Arvin recirculating heater the original owner installed during his 1st winter with the truck. Even after 60+ years the heater core still doesn't leak and the fan motor still works. I'll try and do an FYI on the heater. Thanks for the comments. Dave
Good video-thx for posting-going to look at a 49 to buy. Can you retrofit bendix brakes on these trucks? Also, great tunes in the background-long live grand funk, ZZ Top and Chevrolet!
I've not done this mod but I'm of the belief that a welder, tools and enough knowledge to be dangerous can do anything to these trucks, LOL... Thanks for watching
In this video - can you clarify for me is that truck short bed? Ours is a short bed 1948 3100 series. I had a fit finding the sweet spot of the cable length / adjuster to get the brake to hold. I've even purchased set of cables just like the one you show in the video and thoug Ive purchased the set of cable for short bed 1948 truck they i've had to recourse to cutting the threaded end to any decent adjustment. Because of that I've purchased a cable from Jim Carter and it is 95% like the old cable. I've compared the cable just like yours Vs the one from Jim Carter and I've found that the cable just like yours have a high / greater resistance of the cable in the housing when compared to the one from Jim Carter (by the way the one from Jim Carter was ordered in October 2020 and arrive two days ago.)
My Chevy 3100 is a short bed. Perhaps they sent you the wrong cable. Sounds like you've got the correct one from Jim Carter. The manual covers adjustment very well. Good luck.
I'm not sure when GM changed their drum brakes over to the Bendix style but the Advance Design models (47-55.1st series) remained pretty constant in their construction. If your driveshaft is enclosed in a torque tube it's a safe bet your 52 is running the correct Huck style brakes.
Did Carter YF come on a 216 stock? Or. Im sure people switched them over time? I haven one with a automatic choke I need to rebuild. 🤔 were they that much better?
From what I understand the OEM carb was the Rochester B but Carter was the "Holley" back in the day and most folks swapped the Roch B's out for Carter YF's as soon as the Roch B's acted up. Those in the know say the Carter was a better carb.
@@Volfandt nicee okay thanks for that knowledge. Might you have a vid on how to attach the choke cable & was their a throttle cable as well? I think you mentioned that 🤔 on the 216 liking its warm up lol 😆
@@OGSHAKER2020 The 216 with OEM intake & exhaust warmed up pretty fast when compared to the 235 and it's high performance hardware. I don't have any Vids detailing the hookups but this linked Vid shows them connected (a good shot is towards the end). th-cam.com/video/vcrmlGt_yw8/w-d-xo.html
@@Volfandt niceeeeee i will check it .& that 235 you built up is SWEEEETTTT!!😤 did you have 2 double feed those vacuum & where they compression fittings on those carb ends
@@Volfandt goodness im trying man I want her to just stay idling..if you would lend that experience again...soooo I got the carb. Black on w/compression fitting ..ui adjusted float level & drop.. checked points are set at .018.. got her fired up but I have to pump the heck outta the gas pedal to get her to catch once she's catches I gotta keep revving her once I stop she dies . Sounds like I think 🤔 lil back fire through exhaust..maybe or sputter. My thoughts 1)distributor. I did both test twisted the body counterclockwise & springs did return it to retarded position then I tested the distributor cam clockwise & it didn't move much but it did return not sure how much 🤔 the required movement is for both these tests 2) did someone install distributor incorrectly? Do the 2 locking tabs on cap 🤔 supposed to be sitting parallel to the block?cuz mines are almost perfectly perpendicular to it. 3) my timing. Is it just way off.. but I am getting her to run. .just can't let off the gas cuz she dies. PLEASE ANY THOUGHTS. I really wanna get her running. I m really unning out of thoughts . If this helps when I drove her home .. few months ago. Like 4miles having to hold RPMS up revving . Someone at gas station told me they could see flames or something coming out of exhaust .. but she did over heat at that point cuz alternator belt was loose not spinning the pump. I've come along way... just trynna figure her out. Any 💡 ideas would be gladly appreciated. Just trynna give u all I know of this situation. Really just wanna drive her. Thx again bud.... wish you were down the street to talk to LOL.
Im having issues with the Emergency Brake. In your video you address the replacement of the parking brake cable but you do not state if you had issues getting the parking brake to hold. I've done everything stated in 1948 to 1953 Chevy Truck Shop Manual, Brake section 5-15 and 5-19 and I still can't get the brake to hold. The brakes when hydraulically applied lockup the wheels as it should. But just applying the parking brake does not lock the wheel. Drag has been set on the rear wheels as required. Any ideas? I have visually confirmed that the "toggle lever" moves (about one inch) when the brake cable is pulled. The spring between at the end of the cable is fully compressed. The eccentric bolt has been set as required. Your help is greatly appreciated.
Sounds like you need to adjust the brake yoke ends where they pin to the main parking brake cross shaft. Perhaps adjust them to take up some slack and see how it does. Make sure to count the times you turn the yoke so you can pt it back should this not be successful. Good luck
@@Volfandt Had done that. With no improvement. By the way The cables I purchased are from Classic Parts and they look exactly like the ones in your video.
I believe the 6400 is a 2 ton truck. I also believe the parking brake consist's of a large drum and brake band thats bolted to the rear of the transmission. I could be wrong tho. A good ref source would be to go to www.stovebolt.com , go to the forums and then to the Big Bolts sub forum. There's lots of knowledgeable floks there.
Great and informative. However, i have a question about the rear brake assembly: your video section of the rear brake assembly does not I.D. if the brake shoes need the conical springs just like the front use? Our 1948 3100 series brake does not have them as yours does not. Please advise.
Those conical springs were for earlier brake shoes and are not as strong as the OEM's. I've not had any problems using the conicals but be advised they may not be what was originally installed on your truck. I recommend to reuse the hardware thats on the truck if servicable. Good luck.
@@chandiaz7694 According to this on-line manual the 48 rear brakes used conical springs same as the front. chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0519.htm The info is towards the bottom of the page. Heres a link to the entire manual: chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/index.htm Good luck.
Basically you used it to set the idle up higher for reasons such as, starting a cold engine, running the truck in granny gear (4 speed 1st gear) so it would creep along etc. Some of these trucks came with PTO's that needed high stationary rpm to operate. I used the one on my old 216 for high idle at cold start and it worked great. Make sure the throttle cable "lock" at the carb throttle plate isn't set so high as to interfere with normal throttle operation, it may be keeping the carb from fully returning to idle. YOu can also adjust the idle down if it isn't. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Hi, just a quick question, I have the same brakes (huck) as this but it’s a 3100 1952 is this correct for this year too, or has my rear axil been changed. Thank you. Great video by the way.
Graham Richards , I had a 52 3100 rolling chassis. I put the front and rear axles under my 47 3100 along with a 49 loadmaster and it’s four speed tranny. All that stuff is interchangeable.The 52 had bendix brakes and they work a lot better than the huck From everything I’ve seen 51 seems to be the year they changed to the bendix.
If you're asking about just the filter elements you can get a WIX 51100 or WIX 51006 or a Fram 1100 that will fit these old bypass oil filters. If you're asking about the full bypass oil filter kit I'm not sure they make them new anymore. This link is for a Bee Hive filter but you'll need to contact them for info: www.classicparts.com/1941-59-Bee-Hive-Oil-Filter-Black/productinfo/86-301/ I did a quick ebay search and found these: uk.bestdeals.today/chevy-235-oil-filter-canister?&origin=google&google_params[matchtype]=b&google_params[network]=g&google_params[device]=c&google_params[creative]=419324923112&google_params[keyword]=&google_params[adposition]=&google_params[adgroupid]=77425089726&google_params[campaignid]=6539768374&bs=&google_params[feeditemid]=&google_params[targetid]=dsa-19959388920&google_params[loc_interest_ms]=&google_params[loc_physical_ms]=9013350&google_params[devicemodel]=&google_params[target]=&new_api=true&dest=0&sys_id=0|242&gclid=CjwKCAjw1v_0BRAkEiwALFkj5kH-vmGlMR6EyzEF_QoSbOzZS5nQ5lf1qkxB4CIlTMWItJ3Y80IV5BoCuLgQAvD_BwE Good luck.
Pat, the timing mark is on the flywheel and is visible in the hole just above the starter on the engine side of the bell housing. It will be a BB embedded into the flywheel. There is a pointer in the hole. You align the BB with the pointer when idling around 450-550 rpm. Since our fuel is better these days you will probably run more advanced than the original setting. I'm attaching a video link to where I set the timing on the 216. It's seen best at around the 5:50 mark. I've got other video's on setting the timing on a 235 which is basically the same. Link: th-cam.com/video/950IiFKTfK4/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
I like Shell Rotella oil. Oil grade/weight is dependent upon the mileage of your engine. When new these Stovebolt engines were spec'd for 20w non detergent oil. Now a days you want to run detergent oil (which is most all oils now) and a good multigrade. If your engine has been rebuilt and has low mileage a 10w30 should work fine. If your engine has high mileage and low oil pressure I recommend 15w40. BAsically run an oil grade that wioll give you the highest oil pressure reading once it's warmed up to operating temperatures. Rotella is a diesel engine oil but it has higher levels of additives that are good for flat tappet engines like these old Stovebolt engines.
my email is: volfandt1@yahoo.com I don't have any spare original brake parts but a quick search for "clevis" turned up several sources including NAPA. www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE7321123?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Fasteners-Hardware&campaign_id=10947735022&adgroup_id=107081865346&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=Cj0KCQiAo-yfBhD_ARIsANr56g7KvOFyCkHlVBRXvm3BsEisxCZ68mHBLCzt_x0IYYBsqVKuO5UygFkaAhfwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds& Jim Carter: oldchevytrucks.com/me160.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAo-yfBhD_ARIsANr56g76JK0zDgfV_JlnfDkWqg0f551V2CDSuWMUtFZezY45jXoPTTuCiqwaAnaUEALw_wcB
Ray, if you mean the coil, it doesn't matter which way it's mounted. It came factory stock upside down so that's how I left it. I've had other engines with the coils mounted in all sorts of different positions. Thanks for watching.
There are two adjusters. Look on the backside of the brake backing plate and you should see two slots at about the 10 & 2 oclock positions. Go by my template in the video to know which way to turn. Good luck.
![[Watch Party] RoV Pro League 2024 Winter | with Moowan ( Bacon Time Vs Talon )](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CCEDhu6dPN8/mqdefault.jpg)
I can't thank you enough for taking the time to create this video !! I'm sure I will watch I multiple times... I'm working just now on my 1950 3100 and really needed the info on the brakes. Again, much appreciated !!
Thanks and good luck Jones
The heater in the 49 3100 is the original Arvin recirculating heater the original owner installed during his 1st winter with the truck. Even after 60+ years the heater core still doesn't leak and the fan motor still works.
I'll try and do an FYI on the heater. Thanks for the comments.
Dave
This was so informative I just bought a one and its all original down to the 6volt system. Thanks for doing this video.
Really informative video, thanks for posting. Regards from the UK.
Thanks Robert
Valuable information . Thanks.
Thanks Joe
Keep up the good work. Thanks again
Thanks for watching David
Good video-thx for posting-going to look at a 49 to buy. Can you retrofit bendix brakes on these trucks? Also, great tunes in the background-long live grand funk, ZZ Top and Chevrolet!
I've not done this mod but I'm of the belief that a welder, tools and enough knowledge to be dangerous can do anything to these trucks, LOL...
Thanks for watching
Enjoyable and informative videos. Thank you! Can you do a short video on the heater? Just describe how hoses connect, etc.
LOL spent a hour last week looking for my master cylinder
In this video - can you clarify for me is that truck short bed? Ours is a short bed 1948 3100 series. I had a fit finding the sweet spot of the cable length / adjuster to get the brake to hold. I've even purchased set of cables just like the one you show in the video and thoug Ive purchased the set of cable for short bed 1948 truck they i've had to recourse to cutting the threaded end to any decent adjustment. Because of that I've purchased a cable from Jim Carter and it is 95% like the old cable. I've compared the cable just like yours Vs the one from Jim Carter and I've found that the cable just like yours have a high / greater resistance of the cable in the housing when compared to the one from Jim Carter (by the way the one from Jim Carter was ordered in October 2020 and arrive two days ago.)
My Chevy 3100 is a short bed. Perhaps they sent you the wrong cable. Sounds like you've got the correct one from Jim Carter.
The manual covers adjustment very well. Good luck.
I'm not sure when GM changed their drum brakes over to the Bendix style but the Advance Design models (47-55.1st series) remained pretty constant in their construction. If your driveshaft is enclosed in a torque tube it's a safe bet your 52 is running the correct Huck style brakes.
My 1951 has bendix brakes
Did Carter YF come on a 216 stock? Or. Im sure people switched them over time? I haven one with a automatic choke I need to rebuild. 🤔 were they that much better?
From what I understand the OEM carb was the Rochester B but Carter was the "Holley" back in the day and most folks swapped the Roch B's out for Carter YF's as soon as the Roch B's acted up. Those in the know say the Carter was a better carb.
@@Volfandt nicee okay thanks for that knowledge. Might you have a vid on how to attach the choke cable & was their a throttle cable as well? I think you mentioned that 🤔 on the 216 liking its warm up lol 😆
@@OGSHAKER2020 The 216 with OEM intake & exhaust warmed up pretty fast when compared to the 235 and it's high performance hardware. I don't have any Vids detailing the hookups but this linked Vid shows them connected (a good shot is towards the end).
th-cam.com/video/vcrmlGt_yw8/w-d-xo.html
@@Volfandt niceeeeee i will check it .& that 235 you built up is SWEEEETTTT!!😤 did you have 2 double feed those vacuum & where they compression fittings on those carb ends
@@Volfandt goodness im trying man I want her to just stay idling..if you would lend that experience again...soooo I got the carb. Black on w/compression fitting ..ui adjusted float level & drop.. checked points are set at .018.. got her fired up but I have to pump the heck outta the gas pedal to get her to catch once she's catches I gotta keep revving her once I stop she dies . Sounds like I think 🤔 lil back fire through exhaust..maybe or sputter. My thoughts 1)distributor. I did both test twisted the body counterclockwise & springs did return it to retarded position then I tested the distributor cam clockwise & it didn't move much but it did return not sure how much 🤔 the required movement is for both these tests 2) did someone install distributor incorrectly? Do the 2 locking tabs on cap 🤔 supposed to be sitting parallel to the block?cuz mines are almost perfectly perpendicular to it. 3) my timing. Is it just way off.. but I am getting her to run. .just can't let off the gas cuz she dies. PLEASE ANY THOUGHTS. I really wanna get her running. I m really unning out of thoughts . If this helps when I drove her home .. few months ago. Like 4miles having to hold RPMS up revving . Someone at gas station told me they could see flames or something coming out of exhaust .. but she did over heat at that point cuz alternator belt was loose not spinning the pump. I've come along way... just trynna figure her out. Any 💡 ideas would be gladly appreciated. Just trynna give u all I know of this situation. Really just wanna drive her. Thx again bud.... wish you were down the street to talk to LOL.
Im having issues with the Emergency Brake. In your video you address the replacement of the parking brake cable but you do not state if you had issues getting the parking brake to hold. I've done everything stated in 1948 to 1953 Chevy Truck Shop Manual, Brake section 5-15 and 5-19 and I still can't get the brake to hold. The brakes when hydraulically applied lockup the wheels as it should. But just applying the parking brake does not lock the wheel. Drag has been set on the rear wheels as required. Any ideas?
I have visually confirmed that the "toggle lever" moves (about one inch) when the brake cable is pulled. The spring between at the end of the cable is fully compressed. The eccentric bolt has been set as required.
Your help is greatly appreciated.
Sounds like you need to adjust the brake yoke ends where they pin to the main parking brake cross shaft. Perhaps adjust them to take up some slack and see how it does. Make sure to count the times you turn the yoke so you can pt it back should this not be successful.
Good luck
@@Volfandt Had done that. With no improvement. By the way The cables I purchased are from Classic Parts and they look exactly like the ones in your video.
I have a 1954 Chevy 6400. I am trying to figure out how the manual/parking brake works?
I believe the 6400 is a 2 ton truck. I also believe the parking brake consist's of a large drum and brake band thats bolted to the rear of the transmission. I could be wrong tho.
A good ref source would be to go to www.stovebolt.com , go to the forums and then to the Big Bolts sub forum. There's lots of knowledgeable floks there.
Great and informative. However, i have a question about the rear brake assembly: your video section of the rear brake assembly does not I.D. if the brake shoes need the conical springs just like the front use? Our 1948 3100 series brake does not have them as yours does not. Please advise.
Those conical springs were for earlier brake shoes and are not as strong as the OEM's. I've not had any problems using the conicals but be advised they may not be what was originally installed on your truck. I recommend to reuse the hardware thats on the truck if servicable.
Good luck.
@@Volfandt The only parts missing from the assembly are the rear shoe conical springs. do I need them or not? i did not observe them on your truck.
@@chandiaz7694 According to this on-line manual the 48 rear brakes used conical springs same as the front.
chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0519.htm
The info is towards the bottom of the page.
Heres a link to the entire manual:
chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/index.htm
Good luck.
Did you keep that 216. Bud? 🤔
What is the purpose of the Throttle Knob? I’m experiencing a very high idle on my 1951 Chevy.
Basically you used it to set the idle up higher for reasons such as, starting a cold engine, running the truck in granny gear (4 speed 1st gear) so it would creep along etc. Some of these trucks came with PTO's that needed high stationary rpm to operate. I used the one on my old 216 for high idle at cold start and it worked great.
Make sure the throttle cable "lock" at the carb throttle plate isn't set so high as to interfere with normal throttle operation, it may be keeping the carb from fully returning to idle. YOu can also adjust the idle down if it isn't.
Good luck and thanks for watching.
Hi, just a quick question, I have the same brakes (huck) as this but it’s a 3100 1952 is this correct for this year too, or has my rear axil been changed. Thank you. Great video by the way.
Graham Richards , I had a 52 3100 rolling chassis. I put the front and rear axles under my 47 3100 along with a 49 loadmaster and it’s four speed tranny. All that stuff is interchangeable.The 52 had bendix brakes and they work a lot better than the huck From everything I’ve seen 51 seems to be the year they changed to the bendix.
hello, do you have a website or info to order the oil filter kit, I can't find it in after market thanks in advance
If you're asking about just the filter elements you can get a WIX 51100 or WIX 51006 or a Fram 1100 that will fit these old bypass oil filters. If you're asking about the full bypass oil filter kit I'm not sure they make them new anymore. This link is for a Bee Hive filter but you'll need to contact them for info: www.classicparts.com/1941-59-Bee-Hive-Oil-Filter-Black/productinfo/86-301/
I did a quick ebay search and found these: uk.bestdeals.today/chevy-235-oil-filter-canister?&origin=google&google_params[matchtype]=b&google_params[network]=g&google_params[device]=c&google_params[creative]=419324923112&google_params[keyword]=&google_params[adposition]=&google_params[adgroupid]=77425089726&google_params[campaignid]=6539768374&bs=&google_params[feeditemid]=&google_params[targetid]=dsa-19959388920&google_params[loc_interest_ms]=&google_params[loc_physical_ms]=9013350&google_params[devicemodel]=&google_params[target]=&new_api=true&dest=0&sys_id=0|242&gclid=CjwKCAjw1v_0BRAkEiwALFkj5kH-vmGlMR6EyzEF_QoSbOzZS5nQ5lf1qkxB4CIlTMWItJ3Y80IV5BoCuLgQAvD_BwE
Good luck.
are the timing marks on the front pulleys ? good video thanks
Pat, the timing mark is on the flywheel and is visible in the hole just above the starter on the engine side of the bell housing. It will be a BB embedded into the flywheel. There is a pointer in the hole. You align the BB with the pointer when idling around 450-550 rpm. Since our fuel is better these days you will probably run more advanced than the original setting. I'm attaching a video link to where I set the timing on the 216. It's seen best at around the 5:50 mark. I've got other video's on setting the timing on a 235 which is basically the same.
Link: th-cam.com/video/950IiFKTfK4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching.
Whats the correct engine oil that i should purchase?
Synthetic or Regular?
Any specific brand?
Please let me know!
Thanks
Eric Ruiz
Puerto Rico
I like Shell Rotella oil. Oil grade/weight is dependent upon the mileage of your engine. When new these Stovebolt engines were spec'd for 20w non detergent oil.
Now a days you want to run detergent oil (which is most all oils now) and a good multigrade. If your engine has been rebuilt and has low mileage a 10w30 should work fine. If your engine has high mileage and low oil pressure I recommend 15w40. BAsically run an oil grade that wioll give you the highest oil pressure reading once it's warmed up to operating temperatures.
Rotella is a diesel engine oil but it has higher levels of additives that are good for flat tappet engines like these old Stovebolt engines.
@@Volfandt thanks for you support.
I will keep you informed of my 54 chevy progress as soon as i received in PR.
Can I get in contact with You Bud I need rear drum components and original Clevis’s
my email is: volfandt1@yahoo.com
I don't have any spare original brake parts but a quick search for "clevis" turned up several sources including NAPA.
www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE7321123?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Fasteners-Hardware&campaign_id=10947735022&adgroup_id=107081865346&adtype=pla_with_promotion&gclid=Cj0KCQiAo-yfBhD_ARIsANr56g7KvOFyCkHlVBRXvm3BsEisxCZ68mHBLCzt_x0IYYBsqVKuO5UygFkaAhfwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&
Jim Carter:
oldchevytrucks.com/me160.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAo-yfBhD_ARIsANr56g76JK0zDgfV_JlnfDkWqg0f551V2CDSuWMUtFZezY45jXoPTTuCiqwaAnaUEALw_wcB
Thank You 👍
is the rotor better upside down?
Ray, if you mean the coil, it doesn't matter which way it's mounted. It came factory stock upside down so that's how I left it. I've had other engines with the coils mounted in all sorts of different positions. Thanks for watching.
Can you please tell me where the brake adjuster is?
There are two adjusters. Look on the backside of the brake backing plate and you should see two slots at about the 10 & 2 oclock positions. Go by my template in the video to know which way to turn. Good luck.
Can I get your email so I can send you a picture?
Volfandt can I get your email so I can send you a picture
@@KristeenDevon volfandt1@yahoo.com
Volfandt I just sent you a email
I appreciate your efforts but the videos would be much better if the lighting shows what you are explaining. Otherwise like watching this video.
Thanks for watching Gloria