Memories from many years ago when I worked in a standard transmission shop. We never blasted any of the internals. We washed them and then used a power wheel brush to clean anything that washing would not remove. If gears had some small chips, we used a grinder to smooth them out. If building a trans for high performance vehicle - all parts must be in pristine condition.
I learned how to rebuild transmissions when I was 14. It’s easy! You take out the transmission, put it the back of your dads truck. Take it to the shop, then three days later pick it up and put it back in! EASY!
The only gearbox I opened up was out of a 1971 Opel GT. I was replacing the gaskets and putting it in a 1973 Opel GT. Other then that I let guys that like to play with gears handle it. I build engines for a living but transmissions are just as complicated as Turbo Encabulators.
Same as me as with a friend mechanic i manage to overhaul my car engine and got through all of process as it was summer vacations and I really enjoyed it bolting parts i was only 12 ....understood its not rocket science.....
These old SM 420s are darn near bullet proof...Just clean it and put fresh lube in it, then drive the snot out of it...I did this exact same proceedure to mine, circa 1951 vintage, fifteen years ago...Still works as designed...Use 75W-90W, and you'll be golden.
U revived all the work i did long ago glad to see all that again .. ...That brass rings are the reason for smooth shift as I pulled out gear box of my car 2 n3 was slipping ...aligned new brass rings n shifter joint all was good again ...some times its just a gear shifting plastic m rubber parts responsible for not engaging gears ..it's common in Japanese cars gear linkage were out...
Always a joy to watch! He leaves the very best for last "Go on out and get your own work done so you can enjoy your ride" Nothing like finishing up with that dose of positive encouragement! :-D
Davin, Being a master tech myself, I was instructed many years ago to use Vaseline to hold all the needle bearings in a manual transmission. The grease clogs the lube holes in the gears. Gear lube won’t wash it out. Where Vaseline washes out. Just like you should never use blue silicone with petroleum products. Gray is some of the best type I’ve used with automatic transmissions. Black with engines, blue is good for fish tanks🤣. You are a hell of a tech tho. Not putting you down at all. Keep up the great work. 👍👍👍
I am new to u tube as earlier i watched all restorations on discovery turbo for almost 10 yrs and never tried to see on u tube but I find it more precised and practice ....I love it
Dave, you were being a bit hard on yourself about that transmission assembly. How many manual 3 speed truck transmissions have you rebuilt? Sometimes its learn by doing. You shown even THE best have to take a few lumps on the repair bench every now and then. You figured it out and it works. That's all that matters. Congrats!
Hey Davin, a fully floating axle refers to an axle that doesn’t carry any radial load. The axle only provides torque that’s why there are no bearing pressed onto the axle itself.
Love your videos, I work on my cars weekly. From time to time I need a little push to get started and watching your videos definitely gives me some motivation.
Front input bearings usually worn loose. Did a few m21 and t10. Pilot bushing in crank often loose as well. Some trans use motor oil or atf not 90w. Syncros will grind not stop gear to engage if 90w or stp is added. Syncros rely on friction on bronze cone taper to slow stop gear to shift with no grinding. I made that mistake with a Ford had wrong oil. Put 30 wt as factory specified shifted fast no more grinding.
@@Nudnik1 1 this is a dump truck transmission, there is no speed shifting. 2 GM calls for 90w in them, they left the factory with 90w, and thats what should be run in them today. These synchros were designed for 90w gear oil
There's a lot of old cars sitting in the back country in North west arkansas. Out past elkins. I use to do rural telephone work I seen lots just sitting 3 1970 chevells just sitting together a 71 I think cougar there all over just got to drive the back roads back in the hills.
If you sandblast the gears you can use an old used honing stone to redress the tips of each gear tooth so they will be smooth again and mesh more easily instead of wearing more.
I've been through several transmissions in my 1968 Corolla over the years. It has a problem with this bearing getting worn and then one day second gear turns itself into chunks. I used to be able to find used ones and just swap them out for $45-$50. Once I lost a front u-joint and it broke the case, bent the main shaft slightly. It was a good low miles one, I wasn't happy but found another one. The last mishap was a worn synchronizer and it wouldn't stay in gear. Can't find any more transmissions to fit. With antiques though....you never throw anything away (mostly). Having never been inside a transmission but not being a scaredy cat, I took two of them apart...the bent one and the bad synchro one. Tore them both completely down, took everything off the bent shaft, put it all on the straight one and made one good transmission out of two bad ones....running on it about 7-8 years now.
just bought a 49 chevy with inline 6 and 3 speed on the colum. both cab corners are rusted out. no brake pedal pressure. one wheel locked up. floor pans rusted through. back of the seat missing. annndd a bunch other stuff. hopefully i can get it running and driving :)
Seen so many of those old four speeds jammed full of STP to stop the whine and snicros from jumping out of gear cause the pocket baring was worn out. Getting those needles glued in place and holding while getting main back in... learning to juggle is easier. Rear end surprised me as it looked just fine as far as wear and tear. most those old trucks do have lots of miles left at "45" and stay alive. Those oil dipping 216's didn't like high rpms. But I have heard a light knocking sound and it be nothing really as it never got worse but it never got a hundred yards off the property either
ak assasin not what i mean, the rock Music doesnt fit the videos imo. Stressfull might not be the right Word for it, but i think u Get the idea. I love the videos though.
The only thing I would have looked at was the pins on the top of the transmission that wear and cause the shifter to be loose in the snout. Great video, did you have to replace the synchros?
if you have a old trans or differential full of old gunky oil you can fill them with hot kerosene and leave them soak. heating the housing before hand helps it to work even better and can get most of the greasy crap off the outside . it's helps to get all of the bad sediment out of the bottom of the cases and get's them cleaner then just draining them cold. just make sure to flush them before refilling them with there respective lube.
Your videos are great, but why are you greasing wheel bearings in a floating rear axle? The whole point of that hub design is so the bearings are lubricated by the diff oil.
No it really doesn't. I've changed many of them and never greased one. Dip the bearings in just a touch of oil and put them back in and drive it down the street. Haven't had a single problem yet.
Regarding the rusted transmission parts, could you not convert the ferrous oxide to ferro-ferric oxide (boil in distilled water) then use a soft wire wheel to remove the rust (repeating as many times as necessary)? Or use Phosphoric Acid to convert the ferrous oxide to iron phosphate? Blasting gears is not usually recommended (as you mention).
Excellent video I do like it when guys like you show that mistakes are made and how you reversed the error a very important procedure back in the early 70's I rebuilt several Mini gearboxes both early magic wand tyle and later rod and stick type final drive and as the diff was in the gearbox diff preload. Did I make mistakes is the pope a catholic of course I did.
Hey Davin: Always enjoy your informative videos. These and the straight eight series are great as they are not the "common" how to's !! What is that "sealer" you are using ?? Is it being used in place/as the gasket or with a gasket??
I always find that Permatex 'Ultra Grey' is a great product for this sort of thing. I've used it for entire oil pans and its held up for thousands of miles. Excellent stuff!
@@boingkster Recently I went and got some yamabond 4. Hondabond 4 is the same stuff ... I forgot how good the stuff was (last used it in the early 90s) It's for bike engine cases and it worked awesome for the (no gasket ) vr6 VW timing covers and oil pan. It's gray , but a little runny and dries like hard rubber. I really wanted the international/Ford gray stuff for the power stroke oil pans but 25$ for a tube was a little pricey. The hondabond was under 8$ at the bike dealer.
The grey Permatex stuff is specially made to be used with gear lubes. The more common black RTV can often leak when using it to seal differentials because the additives in most gear lubes can eat the black RTV. That is why he used it on the transmission to make the input shaft seal also. It is not needed for use on items that are sealing engine oil. The black will work just fine on those applications. The grey Permatex can be used for sealing engines but it is more expensive. The grey Permatex is the only sealant Chrysler recommends when sealing their differentials.
@@Killsnapz Thanks Victor. Looked like he was using it "solo" (without any gasket). Am I correctly understanding that is how this/these products are used ???
Thank you for the video. How do you know you have the transmission and top shifter plate forks in the neutral position when putting it back together? Thanks
Great video really enjoy watching this series. I have always wanted an old Chevy truck about the same year as that one. What kind of rear gear ratio does it have?
Honest question, why do you use a ratchet to put the diff cover on instead of a impact? Would it not be faster? Does the impacting of the bolt cause issues? A very novice home DIY guy question. Thank you.
Sometimes an impact or other power tool will snap the head off a rusty bolt. That is why many people slowly turn a ratchet. Once the mechanic is confident that the rest of the bolt will come out easily, they use a power tool to speed things up.
Why would you sandblast the gear and destroy the contact services? Use electrolysis or evaporust to pull the corrosion off the surface then inspect the surfaces for damage. It doesn't take long and you'll have a quieter transmission for your efforts.
The shop manual mentions a tool to depress and turn the collar that releases the shift lever. Having never removed one before, I thought that possibly the tool was a necessity. I have since found that it does remove quite easily.
Memories from many years ago when I worked in a standard transmission shop.
We never blasted any of the internals. We washed them and then used a power wheel brush to clean anything that washing would not remove. If gears had some small chips, we used a grinder to smooth them out.
If building a trans for high performance vehicle - all parts must be in pristine condition.
Me too at Blumenthal's in OKC.
I learned how to rebuild transmissions when I was 14. It’s easy! You take out the transmission, put it the back of your dads truck. Take it to the shop, then three days later pick it up and put it back in!
EASY!
Did you get the belt?
I LOVE axia yes he also has to swallow some kids
The only gearbox I opened up was out of a 1971 Opel GT. I was replacing the gaskets and putting it in a 1973 Opel GT.
Other then that I let guys that like to play with gears handle it. I build engines for a living but transmissions are just as complicated as Turbo Encabulators.
Same as me as with a friend mechanic i manage to overhaul my car engine and got through all of process as it was summer vacations and I really enjoyed it bolting parts i was only 12 ....understood its not rocket science.....
😐
So you bought a rebuild kit and that's great. I personally would also have sandblasted the case and painted it.
I'm glad that we finally got another transmission rebuild.
Im glad you showed what you learned about putting it together. Now I don’t feel so bad
My grandfather 81 what I wouldn't give to give him something like this ...he would love it
Clean operation. Davin, you keep a well organize workshop, Good work.
These old SM 420s are darn near bullet proof...Just clean it and put fresh lube in it, then drive the snot out of it...I did this exact same proceedure to mine, circa 1951 vintage, fifteen years ago...Still works as designed...Use 75W-90W, and you'll be golden.
m schiffel they are still pretty well supported with parts as well. One of the best transmissions GM ever installed.
Looks good. I like keeping the age of things too. Restoring is nice but showing the life its had is nice too.
Enjoying my little 54 chev 3100 shortbed and learning the more i can from the pros. Thanks for sharing!
U revived all the work i did long ago glad to see all that again .. ...That brass rings are the reason for smooth shift as I pulled out gear box of my car 2 n3 was slipping ...aligned new brass rings n shifter joint all was good again ...some times its just a gear shifting plastic m rubber parts responsible for not engaging gears ..it's common in Japanese cars gear linkage were out...
It may be slugy but that usually means most of the metal is still there. Not dry and rotted.
I'm binging rebuild updates. On "as far as" or "relative to" you drink!
Always a joy to watch! He leaves the very best for last "Go on out and get your own work done so you can enjoy your ride" Nothing like finishing up with that dose of positive encouragement! :-D
I wish I had 1/1000 the mechanical ability as Davin . Love to watch him work 👍
These videos are so informative while being enjoyable. Davin (note at 5:13 name on his shirt) has the best job assuming Hagerty is a decent employer.
Assuming that's the shop where they actually work and don't just use it for filming,it looks clean and decent.
Davin, Being a master tech myself, I was instructed many years ago to use Vaseline to hold all the needle bearings in a manual transmission. The grease clogs the lube holes in the gears. Gear lube won’t wash it out. Where Vaseline washes out. Just like you should never use blue silicone with petroleum products. Gray is some of the best type I’ve used with automatic transmissions. Black with engines, blue is good for fish tanks🤣.
You are a hell of a tech tho. Not putting you down at all. Keep up the great work. 👍👍👍
I am new to u tube as earlier i watched all restorations on discovery turbo for almost 10 yrs and never tried to see on u tube but I find it more precised and practice ....I love it
Dave, you were being a bit hard on yourself about that transmission assembly. How many manual 3 speed truck transmissions have you rebuilt? Sometimes its learn by doing. You shown even THE best have to take a few lumps on the repair bench every now and then. You figured it out and it works. That's all that matters. Congrats!
Good to see old dudes work out ideas keeps there mind going ..
Hey Davin, a fully floating axle refers to an axle that doesn’t carry any radial load. The axle only provides torque that’s why there are no bearing pressed onto the axle itself.
Been trying to wrap my head around a floating axle for awhile now, and you just explained it perfectly. Thank you.
Love your videos, I work on my cars weekly. From time to time I need a little push to get started and watching your videos definitely gives me some motivation.
Redline updates are the best!!. Timelapse are works of art but these updates are awesome!!!
Ben! As always I love the videos! Can we get a whole video of Davin’s ramblings? We as subscribers want to get to know our hero more.
Front input bearings usually worn loose.
Did a few m21 and t10.
Pilot bushing in crank often loose as well.
Some trans use motor oil or atf not 90w.
Syncros will grind not stop gear to engage if 90w or stp is added.
Syncros rely on friction on bronze cone taper to slow stop gear to shift with no grinding.
I made that mistake with a Ford had wrong oil. Put 30 wt as factory specified shifted fast no more grinding.
The SM420 does take 90w gear lube. Being an iron case it tends to keep the bearing bores tighter than an aluminum case M21 or T10
@@Texassince1836 syncros don't grab with 90 w often grind when speed shifting
@@Nudnik1 1 this is a dump truck transmission, there is no speed shifting.
2 GM calls for 90w in them, they left the factory with 90w, and thats what should be run in them today. These synchros were designed for 90w gear oil
@@Texassince1836 ok thank you.
There's a lot of old cars sitting in the back country in North west arkansas. Out past elkins. I use to do rural telephone work I seen lots just sitting 3 1970 chevells just sitting together a 71 I think cougar there all over just got to drive the back roads back in the hills.
If you sandblast the gears you can use an old used honing stone to redress the tips of each gear tooth so they will be smooth again and mesh more easily instead of wearing more.
Hi David, I love your work and the way to explain all the things.. stay bless..
Looks just like the one out of my '60, despite the added tailhousing. Definitely will make it easier for when I go to rebuild mine.
I've been through several transmissions in my 1968 Corolla over the years. It has a problem with this bearing getting worn and then one day second gear turns itself into chunks. I used to be able to find used ones and just swap them out for $45-$50. Once I lost a front u-joint and it broke the case, bent the main shaft slightly. It was a good low miles one, I wasn't happy but found another one. The last mishap was a worn synchronizer and it wouldn't stay in gear. Can't find any more transmissions to fit.
With antiques though....you never throw anything away (mostly).
Having never been inside a transmission but not being a scaredy cat, I took two of them apart...the bent one and the bad synchro one. Tore them both completely down, took everything off the bent shaft, put it all on the straight one and made one good transmission out of two bad ones....running on it about 7-8 years now.
I had to rebuilt a dirtbike transmission and it was tough, but I got it working on shifting gears.
I am happy to see a 1 tier system of content.
Hagarty is solid.
Everyone can enjoy
10:13 and 11:16 are two of the coolest tools \ accessories I've seen.
just bought a 49 chevy with inline 6 and 3 speed on the colum. both cab corners are rusted out. no brake pedal pressure. one wheel locked up. floor pans rusted through. back of the seat missing. annndd a bunch other stuff. hopefully i can get it running and driving :)
Looks the the venerable SM420 transmission; almost indestructible.
Seen so many of those old four speeds jammed full of STP to stop the whine and snicros from jumping out of gear cause the pocket baring was worn out. Getting those needles glued in place and holding while getting main back in... learning to juggle is easier. Rear end surprised me as it looked just fine as far as wear and tear. most those old trucks do have lots of miles left at "45" and stay alive. Those oil dipping 216's didn't like high rpms. But I have heard a light knocking sound and it be nothing really as it never got worse but it never got a hundred yards off the property either
Good ol torque tube. Bought a lot of those trucks back in the day. Alot of them had broken u joints..then the powertrain would lock up..
Can’t wait for this truck to be on the road where it belongs 👍👍👍
Sometimes just cleaning and lubing works. Hell that things seven years older than me!
Appreciate the more relaxing music, the rock stuff makes it a bit stressful sometimes
Then dont watch the videos if they stress you out?🤔
ak assasin not what i mean, the rock Music doesnt fit the videos imo. Stressfull might not be the right Word for it, but i think u Get the idea. I love the videos though.
The only thing I would have looked at was the pins on the top of the transmission that wear and cause the shifter to be loose in the snout. Great video, did you have to replace the synchros?
Absolutely terrific operations thank you
I admire your restraint not to modify anything on the drive train
Cheers David and Hagerty, love the informative videos👍👍
From Greece with love! Nice all videos ..
Davin Reckow you a very incredible engineer
It's refreshing to see someone actually use hand tools to assemble. Too many videos on here show guys zip everything up with impact wrenches.
if you have a old trans or differential full of old gunky oil you can fill them with hot kerosene and leave them soak. heating the housing before hand helps it to work even better and can get most of the greasy crap off the outside . it's helps to get all of the bad sediment out of the bottom of the cases and get's them cleaner then just draining them cold. just make sure to flush them before refilling them with there respective lube.
Great video. Thanks for sharing your skills and hard work.
Denn, sorry for tipps, but i advise dont blasting that gears, just give them to stay in rust remover, and then lubricate them and reassemble.
Thanks for attention
I`m in são paulo Brazil I watch all the videos because I love car mechanics....
I would love to find a 1950 to 1955 truck to rebuild...but no garage anymore! Great video!
Your videos are great, but why are you greasing wheel bearings in a floating rear axle? The whole point of that hub design is so the bearings are lubricated by the diff oil.
It takes some time gor oil to get to them
No it really doesn't. I've changed many of them and never greased one. Dip the bearings in just a touch of oil and put them back in and drive it down the street. Haven't had a single problem yet.
I could watch theses videos all day. David, you know your shi*!
I love your videos! Informative and fun to watch
Great work guys
Love your channel. Old trucks...American icons.
Regarding the rusted transmission parts, could you not convert the ferrous oxide to ferro-ferric oxide (boil in distilled water) then use a soft wire wheel to remove the rust (repeating as many times as necessary)? Or use Phosphoric Acid to convert the ferrous oxide to iron phosphate? Blasting gears is not usually recommended (as you mention).
Enjoyable experience. Cheers guys
This videos are the best I ever seen 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Excellent video I do like it when guys like you show that mistakes are made and how you reversed the error a very important procedure back in the early 70's I rebuilt several Mini gearboxes both early magic wand tyle and later rod and stick type final drive and as the diff was in the gearbox diff preload. Did I make mistakes is the pope a catholic of course I did.
Hey Davin:
Always enjoy your informative videos. These and the straight eight series are great as they are not the "common" how to's !! What is that "sealer" you are using ?? Is it being used in place/as the gasket or with a gasket??
it is a ''liquid'' gasket & it's doing the same job as a rubber gasket
I always find that Permatex 'Ultra Grey' is a great product for this sort of thing. I've used it for entire oil pans and its held up for thousands of miles. Excellent stuff!
@@boingkster
Recently I went and got some yamabond 4.
Hondabond 4 is the same stuff ...
I forgot how good the stuff was (last used it in the early 90s)
It's for bike engine cases and it worked awesome for the (no gasket ) vr6 VW timing covers and oil pan.
It's gray , but a little runny and dries like hard rubber.
I really wanted the international/Ford gray stuff for the power stroke oil pans but 25$ for a tube was a little pricey.
The hondabond was under 8$ at the bike dealer.
The grey Permatex stuff is specially made to be used with gear lubes. The more common black RTV can often leak when using it to seal differentials because the additives in most gear lubes can eat the black RTV. That is why he used it on the transmission to make the input shaft seal also. It is not needed for use on items that are sealing engine oil. The black will work just fine on those applications. The grey Permatex can be used for sealing engines but it is more expensive. The grey Permatex is the only sealant Chrysler recommends when sealing their differentials.
@@Killsnapz
Thanks Victor. Looked like he was using it "solo" (without any gasket). Am I correctly understanding that is how this/these products are used ???
Hello I am Alexey from Russia I'm automekhanick too thanks so much
Hi comrade
Welcome. I do enjoy seeing car guys from across the world coming together on the internet.
Thank you for the video. How do you know you have the transmission and top shifter plate forks in the neutral position when putting it back together? Thanks
These are the videos we want to see!
Hagorty столько ваших роликов посмотрел,вы молодец! моё почтение! С меня лайк!
Best mechanic
Davin, you sir are a genius!!
Do you need a 36 year old assistant who is happy to start from sweeping the place up to learning more??
I really would like to see that beautiful truck restored.
I always put the shifter in 3 gear and take it out and weld the lower pin so there's no play
What cleaner do you use for your hands? They seem to stay pretty clean even after dealing with grease all day.
Agent orange or Cherry bomb works wonders. edit: and they smell great!
GREAT PROJECT‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
Great video really enjoy watching this series. I have always wanted an old Chevy truck about the same year as that one. What kind of rear gear ratio does it have?
Thise 3/4 tons came with 4.57 or 5.13 rear ratio
@@Texassince1836 thanks I knew that my grandpa had one that had 5.13 in it but I didn't know what other ratios were offered.
I'm from Brazil and I share and like all videos... congrats
These videos fra Dave are my favourites. 🙂
Devia botar legenda em português, para quem acompanha você no Brasil, parabéns você e o cara
Yes very enjoyable
Thank u great videos like always
Your photography would look better if you had some lighting. Love your videos.
waiting for its video update
Awesome job..
Awesome outstanding job have a great time thanks
Honest question, why do you use a ratchet to put the diff cover on instead of a impact? Would it not be faster? Does the impacting of the bolt cause issues? A very novice home DIY guy question. Thank you.
Sometimes an impact or other power tool will snap the head off a rusty bolt. That is why many people slowly turn a ratchet. Once the mechanic is confident that the rest of the bolt will come out easily, they use a power tool to speed things up.
You never install sheet metal covers with an impact unless you're trying to make them leak.
Well done
Only other channel I enjoy besides this one is South Main Auto . Two great channels !
Cant wait too see that 1950 goin 😁
Do you have a video on rebuilding a 1950 1951 sm318 muncie no overdrive closed driveline transmission.
Awesome vid guys.
Good stuff as always, you might be missing a resource here on TH-cam, Paul Cangialozzi at gearboxvideos channel might have a source of parts.
Hi,
Whats that you apply to the screws before bolting them?
Nice job.
Why would you sandblast the gear and destroy the contact services? Use electrolysis or evaporust to pull the corrosion off the surface then inspect the surfaces for damage. It doesn't take long and you'll have a quieter transmission for your efforts.
otm646 As somebody else said, hopefully it’s just a generic term and it was really soda or walnut shells or plastic beads
Check out Novak Conversions for SM420 parts
Good to see a ratchet an it a power tool
You are legend. !!!👍👍
How do you find brakes for this old of a truck? Awesome video
Good job
What’s that torch attachment used when the cover plate went on the diff?
Hi👋
What’s the point of sandblasting the last gear?
I have a 4 speed from the same era if you need it.
Would you please show the tool used to remove the shift lever from the tower? I'm working on a 51 3600 and I understand that it's a special tool
Your fingers
The shop manual mentions a tool to depress and turn the collar that releases the shift lever. Having never removed one before, I thought that possibly the tool was a necessity. I have since found that it does remove quite easily.