For you guys that want to stay with points put a good set of Blue streak points and your distributor just to Gap and make sure you lube the distributor check the vacuum advance I have a good coil that doesn't put too much load on the factory Delco coil is a great coil. And don't use carbon wires their junk to modern-day wires that have what you would call wire wound wires. The Bosch where are a very excellent wire to use and I prefer spark plugs for that engine.
And I forgot to add the most important part 2 for you guys that use oil bath air cleaner used dextran transmission fluid it filters better you will actually see more dirt in the bottom of the filter make sure you clean the filter out first with some good cleaning fluid solvent and you can overfill it just to tad it will help lubricate the valves.
Chrysler used a brass feeler. Looseness is because of counter weight advance. Gell SHRINKS? Fine strand wires for the moving distributor? test lead wire works best.
Great video! I have a 1944 White scout car with a Auto Lite distributor IGC 4708. No one seems to make the electronic ignition for them. You should start making them. I sure you can sell them...
essentially, it's a Chrysler PU coil and reluctor coupled to a GM HEI module this module adapts to about any magnetic signal, In many applications, I done that with the exception that I machined the points cam to fit the chrysler reluctorand I use the lock pin as in chrysler setup On 4 cylinders application, when the diameter of the distributor permits it, I use a 8 cylinders reluctor and I remove 4 spikes On small european and asian 4 cyl distributors, it's more difficult to do because the diameter is not sufficient to permit the installation of the pick up coil. for reliability, it's mandatory to use an electronic alternator regulator as the mechanical produces spikes that damages the ignition module.
Yep. It's great that these reluctors can be machined so we do not have to do any damage to the vintage parts. If you do not like the way the HEI system works. and that NEVER happens, you can always go back to the old stock ignition system. I am sure with some slight modification, these could be adapted to vintage ford and dodge as well. Check out the HEI writeup on the home page to better understand why HEI is so much better than anything else out there for this vintage. devestechnet.com
I cast a look on your site ... very interesting I've done fullflow oiling system conversion on Chrysler flathead engines and Buda engines but I leave in place the bypass system. I also installed a bypass system on fullflow filtered engines with a very good result. the result of this type of effort is rewarding at a long term . The technology combining full flow and bypass filtration is very common in the diesel world.
I'm searching for an advice, For a longtime,.I do this type of conversion from points to electronic using OEM parts, that because I fear the reliability of instant kits like the Pertronics and similar, I use the complete Chrysler setup , reluctor, pick up coil, ballast, coil and module and of course, it eliminate points but it is not a HEI performance ignition. my applications are agricultural, marine, stationary and automotive in 4,6 and 8 cyl applications, for the 4 cyl applications, I machine 4 spikes from the 8 cylinder reluctor. Actually, I'm converting an old Volvo 4 cylinders Bosch distributor from point style to electronic ignition, happily, Bosch produced distributors variants that are equipped with magnetic pick up coils that are used with the GM HEI module in a Fiat application so the conversion is feasible. The Bosch 4 cylinder distributor is very small ( 2 3/8" dia ) and the cap posts are very near from each other so I fear crossfires in damp weather conditions if I apply the full power that the HEI is capable As I can see about everywhere, the HEI module is about universal so it can be used about everywhere a module fails and the pick up coil in the distributor is magnetic style. My question is if somebody has used the HEI module with the point ignition original coil and ballast, is the performance is at least equal to the point style ignition and if it has a detrimental effect on the life of the module
The smaller the distributor the larger the chances of crossfire, but I have never experienced this phenomena in the 6 cylinder tall cap versions of the GM distributor. I have less experience than you by far in the other applications. I have tested standard coils with my HEI Kit using regular plug wires and the performance is better than using points, however, it makes a big difference to go to lesser ohm HEI spark plug wires and a hotter 45kv coil like the MSD 8202. The problem with the standard coil is they are 6 volt coils (the ballast resistor allowed GM to use them into the 1970's). The idea in my opinion is to go to full 12 volts, eliminating the ballast resistor, thus allowing for a more efficient spark. There is a nice writeup from Hemmings available from my website (home page at devestechnet.com) that explains this better than I can. I am sure you are already aware. Good post! Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video, But..... why go through all this trouble when you can buy a GM electronic ignition cheap at any auto parts store or cheaper from a junk yard? You also get an output for a tach.
Because it looks the same as original. The electronic tach can be connected to the negative side of the coil without any issues. If you dont mind the looks of the HEI distributor, it would be a good way to go for sure.
Deves could you show a video on the engine breather set up, it appears you have some type of vent valve that is running up to the carburetor ...by the way great video !
That is a PCV system, another DevesTechnet original. Check out Devestechnet.com for all of these questions and more. At least I think that is what you are seeing. You can always email me at the address going across the top of the page on the website! Thanks for watching and I hope it helps!
i have a 1950 chevy coupe with a 216 engine. the car is all original except that i converted the system to 12 volts. Am I going to need something like this? and if yes Why? Thank you so much!
You won't NEED it, but if you are tired of adjusting points and adjusting for minor timing issues (dwell, etc) then it's nice to have. The 216 distributor will not work for HEI. You will need a tall cap version (54-62) to make it work, but it is worth all the trouble in my opinion. Others are just fine with the stock system. Best to read the Hemmings article that is posted on the website at devestechnet.com for the WHY.
Dave, two questions: I see that you require the serial number of the distributor, ok, does this mean that I can’t swap this HEI kit from a 216 to 235 engine? I’ve observed that you didn’t connect the black wire that come from the switch, why?
The serial number of the distributor matters in that they made the hex pattern larger on the newer distributors. Changes the grinding of the reluctor. Not sure what you mean about the black wire?
To one of the three screws on the distributor that holds the top plate on. I like to use the back one because its hard to get to once the distributor is in.
i have a 1950 chevy with 235 6cyl its also been converted to 12 volt system ,,it has a ceramic ballast mounted on the firewall ,, now if i go to the electronic ignition and remove the breaker points ignition DO i unhook the wires from that ballast regulator or leave it hooked up ????? first time trying the pertronix
This is something totally different than Pertronix. You will have to check with the company to see if the ballast is required or not. On this true HEI system no ballast resistor. We need 12 volts going to the coil. What the ballast resistor does is reduce the voltage to something a little more than 6 volts to accommodate the 6 volt ignition system Chevy used clear into the mid 70's.
Hey bud was wondering how do I know 🤔 if my distributor is positive or negative ground . Cuz pertronix offers 2 such kits.. please ✊🏽 appreciate 🙏 cha.. . Besided that I know which kit to order thx bud 👍
I am not sure. I have never had anyone ask about anything from that far back. If the distributor gear and shaft are the same as from the late 30's until 1962, then the 1954-1962 tall cap distributor will fit. The original distributor will definitely not work since the cap and top shaft were too short. Also, must be 12 volts.
Deves on my 216 motor the Bakelite is facing the motor. What is that about, on all these videos I watch it facing away from the motor. Where it would be easy access. The motor runs fine, but not sure why it's sitting in that direction. Thank you if you could please answer me back, when you have a chance
That is just because someone put the distributor in backwards. Next time you have occasion to take the distributor out you can correct that. There are instructions on my website that explains how to do that. devestechnet.com/Home/StoveboltTiming If its running fine now, no need to change it until you upgrade.
Thank you again, just seen that you sent me the site to look at. You do some really great work. And help other like myself with questions, thanks again
The distributor shaft fits into a slot in the oil pump at the bottom. You can move this slot in the oil pump with a large screwdriver to adjust it so the distributor goes all the way down. Check out this article and I think it will solve your problem: devestechnet.com/Home/StoveboltTiming
hi i have a inline six like the one in your video i like wot you did and would like to do the same how do i order the kit by you and wot do it cost i have fitted the motor in to a Bmw E30 and want to use it as a drift car can you advise me on how to make little more power out of the motor and where i can get parts from like better carburater and things like that im from south africa so getting parts is a bit difcult
Yes, but lots of bending over the fenders! My website has detailed instructions on how to remove it. Good time to get a new vac advance and check the oil to the rockers also detailed on the site.
Bad ideal for the PC valve and supposed to use .010 brass to adjust the gap. The PCV valve will drink a lot of oil. The road draft tube have been modified to put the PC valve on top or on the side.
devestechnet.com has a lot of information tailored specifically for these vintage vehicles. You can find this particular kit here: devestechnet.com/Services/HEISystem Notice the links at the bottom of the page. The "Farm-It-Out" section is where you will find unique kits for sale.
Generally these engines run best at about 5 degrees before top dead center. On most of the flywheels there is an embedded BB that is at 5 BTDC. While 5 is a good place to start, your results may vary slightly. There is an explanation of this here: devestechnet.com/Home/StoveboltTiming
What's the point of all that work. Most people don't drive their vintage car that often that warrants a electronic ignition. Lived with points condenser in my time. Once a year repair and vehicle was driven every day. Pertronix kit much simpler installation can be done with distributor installed less chance of screw up.
The best reply I can give is to go to the Hemmings article via my website. Since the dwell is based on RPM, the engine runs perfectly throughout the spectrum. This cannot be said for Pertronix or the stock points system. There is nothing better than a smooth, perfectly tuned engine on that occasional Sunday afternoon drive with no surprises! www.hemmings.com/blog/article/the-lost-art-of-servicing-gm-hei/
@@DevesTechnet The dwell can only be as good as the distributor condition. Any variation in shaft movement (worn bushings or shaft, gear)will cause a dwell to wander. I personally carry a spare set of points and condenser. Nothing is perfect, so what do you do when your electronic ignition leaves you stranded. Just saying.
A Chrysler magnetic pickup, and an externally mounted GM HEI 4-pin module - interesting setup.
For you guys that want to stay with points put a good set of Blue streak points and your distributor just to Gap and make sure you lube the distributor check the vacuum advance I have a good coil that doesn't put too much load on the factory Delco coil is a great coil. And don't use carbon wires their junk to modern-day wires that have what you would call wire wound wires. The Bosch where are a very excellent wire to use and I prefer spark plugs for that engine.
BIG PROBLEM solver and does help a lot too. Pir it up with some Iridium plugs. World of positive results
You should be proud of your videos...very insightful. Thank you
What an absolute perfectionist, wonderful, wish I was like it!!!
And I forgot to add the most important part 2 for you guys that use oil bath air cleaner used dextran transmission fluid it filters better you will actually see more dirt in the bottom of the filter make sure you clean the filter out first with some good cleaning fluid solvent and you can overfill it just to tad it will help lubricate the valves.
Thanks. When you connected the wires to Coil, you only connected one wire, the red one.
Chrysler used a brass feeler. Looseness is because of counter weight advance. Gell SHRINKS? Fine strand wires for the moving distributor? test lead wire works best.
New book on How to Rebuild your 216/235/261 Engine available. Check out the details on the website!
Devestechnet.com
Great video! I have a 1944 White scout car with a Auto Lite distributor IGC 4708. No one seems to make the electronic ignition for them. You should start making them. I sure you can sell them...
Interesting video. I will be ordering this kit. Thanks
essentially, it's a Chrysler PU coil and reluctor coupled to a GM HEI module
this module adapts to about any magnetic signal, In many applications, I done that with the exception that I machined the points cam to fit the chrysler reluctorand I use the lock pin as in chrysler setup
On 4 cylinders application, when the diameter of the distributor permits it, I use a 8 cylinders reluctor and I remove 4 spikes
On small european and asian 4 cyl distributors, it's more difficult to do because the diameter is not sufficient to permit the installation of the pick up coil.
for reliability, it's mandatory to use an electronic alternator regulator as the mechanical produces spikes that damages the ignition module.
Yep. It's great that these reluctors can be machined so we do not have to do any damage to the vintage parts. If you do not like the way the HEI system works. and that NEVER happens, you can always go back to the old stock ignition system. I am sure with some slight modification, these could be adapted to vintage ford and dodge as well. Check out the HEI writeup on the home page to better understand why HEI is so much better than anything else out there for this vintage. devestechnet.com
I cast a look on your site ... very interesting
I've done fullflow oiling system conversion on Chrysler flathead engines and Buda engines but I leave in place the bypass system.
I also installed a bypass system on fullflow filtered engines with a very good result.
the result of this type of effort is rewarding at a long term .
The technology combining full flow and bypass filtration is very common in the diesel world.
My next purchase for sure.
Awesome kit and video, I need to get this.
I'm searching for an advice,
For a longtime,.I do this type of conversion from points to electronic using OEM parts, that because I fear the reliability of instant kits like the Pertronics and similar, I use the complete Chrysler setup , reluctor, pick up coil, ballast, coil and module and of course, it eliminate points but it is not a HEI performance ignition.
my applications are agricultural, marine, stationary and automotive in 4,6 and 8 cyl applications, for the 4 cyl applications, I machine 4 spikes from the 8 cylinder reluctor.
Actually, I'm converting an old Volvo 4 cylinders Bosch distributor from point style to electronic ignition, happily,
Bosch produced distributors variants that are equipped with magnetic pick up coils that are used with the GM HEI module in a Fiat application so the conversion is feasible.
The Bosch 4 cylinder distributor is very small ( 2 3/8" dia ) and the cap posts are very near from each other so I fear crossfires in damp weather conditions if I apply the full power that the HEI is capable
As I can see about everywhere, the HEI module is about universal so it can be used about everywhere a module fails and the pick up coil in the distributor is magnetic style.
My question is if somebody has used the HEI module with the point ignition original coil and ballast, is the performance is at least equal to the point style ignition and if it has a detrimental effect on the life of the module
The smaller the distributor the larger the chances of crossfire, but I have never experienced this phenomena in the 6 cylinder tall cap versions of the GM distributor. I have less experience than you by far in the other applications. I have tested standard coils with my HEI Kit using regular plug wires and the performance is better than using points, however, it makes a big difference to go to lesser ohm HEI spark plug wires and a hotter 45kv coil like the MSD 8202. The problem with the standard coil is they are 6 volt coils (the ballast resistor allowed GM to use them into the 1970's). The idea in my opinion is to go to full 12 volts, eliminating the ballast resistor, thus allowing for a more efficient spark. There is a nice writeup from Hemmings available from my website (home page at devestechnet.com) that explains this better than I can. I am sure you are already aware. Good post! Thanks for sharing.
@@DevesTechnet thank you for the answer, I'll make test with a spare module on hand just in case, again, thank you very much
Excellent video, But..... why go through all this trouble when you can buy a GM electronic ignition cheap at any auto parts store or cheaper from a junk yard? You also get an output for a tach.
Because it looks the same as original. The electronic tach can be connected to the negative side of the coil without any issues. If you dont mind the looks of the HEI distributor, it would be a good way to go for sure.
Deves could you show a video on the engine breather set up, it appears you have some type of vent valve that is running up to the carburetor ...by the way great video !
That is a PCV system, another DevesTechnet original. Check out Devestechnet.com for all of these questions and more. At least I think that is what you are seeing. You can always email me at the address going across the top of the page on the website! Thanks for watching and I hope it helps!
Dude awesome video! Thank you so much it helped tremendously! You did a great job
O😮of 😢😢o😢o
Super nice 👍
is there a kit available for the late 60s chevy 327 cid v8, ? i want to use the stock distributor
Sorry no, I have never seen a V8 distributor of that vintage up close, so not sure how it would work.
i have a 1950 chevy coupe with a 216 engine. the car is all original except that i converted the system to 12 volts. Am I going to need something like this? and if yes Why? Thank you so much!
You won't NEED it, but if you are tired of adjusting points and adjusting for minor timing issues (dwell, etc) then it's nice to have. The 216 distributor will not work for HEI. You will need a tall cap version (54-62) to make it work, but it is worth all the trouble in my opinion. Others are just fine with the stock system. Best to read the Hemmings article that is posted on the website at devestechnet.com for the WHY.
Dave, two questions: I see that you require the serial number of the distributor, ok, does this mean that I can’t swap this HEI kit from a 216 to 235 engine? I’ve observed that you didn’t connect the black wire that come from the switch, why?
The serial number of the distributor matters in that they made the hex pattern larger on the newer distributors. Changes the grinding of the reluctor. Not sure what you mean about the black wire?
You helped me sooo much, thank you!!!
Deve where does the ground wire on the HEI module go ?
To one of the three screws on the distributor that holds the top plate on. I like to use the back one because its hard to get to once the distributor is in.
How can I see the install of the pcv kit
i have a 1950 chevy with 235 6cyl its also been converted to 12 volt system ,,it has a ceramic ballast mounted on the firewall ,, now if i go to the electronic ignition and remove the breaker points ignition DO i unhook the wires from that ballast regulator or leave it hooked up ????? first time trying the pertronix
This is something totally different than Pertronix. You will have to check with the company to see if the ballast is required or not. On this true HEI system no ballast resistor. We need 12 volts going to the coil. What the ballast resistor does is reduce the voltage to something a little more than 6 volts to accommodate the 6 volt ignition system Chevy used clear into the mid 70's.
Are these kits still available?
Where do I get that advanced
Hey bud was wondering how do I know 🤔 if my distributor is positive or negative ground . Cuz pertronix offers 2 such kits.. please ✊🏽 appreciate 🙏 cha.. . Besided that I know which kit to order thx bud 👍
If it is a GMC truck it could be positive ground. If Chevy they are always negative ground.
I have a 51 international 6 volt positive ground. Do you have an HEI for my truck?
This kit is only available for 12 volt systems with certain Delco Distributors. Sorry.
great video. do you make this setup for the 1933 stovebolt six ? would love this on my chevy standard
I am not sure. I have never had anyone ask about anything from that far back. If the distributor gear and shaft are the same as from the late 30's until 1962, then the 1954-1962 tall cap distributor will fit. The original distributor will definitely not work since the cap and top shaft were too short. Also, must be 12 volts.
Deves on my 216 motor the Bakelite is facing the motor. What is that about, on all these videos I watch it facing away from the motor. Where it would be easy access. The motor runs fine, but not sure why it's sitting in that direction. Thank you if you could please answer me back, when you have a chance
That is just because someone put the distributor in backwards. Next time you have occasion to take the distributor out you can correct that. There are instructions on my website that explains how to do that. devestechnet.com/Home/StoveboltTiming If its running fine now, no need to change it until you upgrade.
Thank you again, just seen that you sent me the site to look at. You do some really great work. And help other like myself with questions, thanks again
So what voltage and resistance should we look for in a coil? Also, do we need resistor plugs or wires? Copper core wires?
.7 ohms primary (MSD8202) and silicon HEI rated plug wires (accel 4040K) or equivalent. All of that information is at devestechnet.com.
i am having trouble with getting oil up to the top of my 216 after i removed the distributor...any suggestions ?
The distributor shaft fits into a slot in the oil pump at the bottom. You can move this slot in the oil pump with a large screwdriver to adjust it so the distributor goes all the way down. Check out this article and I think it will solve your problem: devestechnet.com/Home/StoveboltTiming
hi i have a inline six like the one in your video i like wot you did and would like to do the same how do i order the kit by you and wot do it cost i have fitted the motor in to a Bmw E30 and want to use it as a drift car can you advise me on how to make little more power out of the motor and where i can get parts from like better carburater and things like that im from south africa so getting parts is a bit difcult
Anyone buy the kit? Was it as easy as he makes it look?
Im going to order one ! Ill get back with you when Im done
Can you do this without taking distributor off?
Yes, but lots of bending over the fenders! My website has detailed instructions on how to remove it. Good time to get a new vac advance and check the oil to the rockers also detailed on the site.
How much is your kit?
If you have an eligible distributor about $200. Details at devestechnet.com/Services/HEISystem
Bad ideal for the PC valve and supposed to use .010 brass to adjust the gap. The PCV valve will drink a lot of oil. The road draft tube have been modified to put the PC valve on top or on the side.
Where are you located
Near Wichita, Kansas.
Hi I have chverlate engine 235 6v I Chang old point I by this give me ezi sillier
The system must be upgraded to 12 volts for this to work. Good question!
@@DevesTechnet How did you get the PCV filter to work? And where did you get the rubber insert it is in?
@@donparr8287 All of the particulars of that system are at devestechnet.com. Part numbers, everything.
What's your website so I can order my hei
devestechnet.com has a lot of information tailored specifically for these vintage vehicles. You can find this particular kit here: devestechnet.com/Services/HEISystem Notice the links at the bottom of the page. The "Farm-It-Out" section is where you will find unique kits for sale.
How much timing are you using?
When you set the distro in.. you set number one to the desired degree of timing? Or TDC?
I can't find this answer.
Generally these engines run best at about 5 degrees before top dead center. On most of the flywheels there is an embedded BB that is at 5 BTDC. While 5 is a good place to start, your results may vary slightly. There is an explanation of this here: devestechnet.com/Home/StoveboltTiming
Where can I order the kit. ? Phone. #. And. Address . Ok
What's the point of all that work. Most people don't drive their vintage car that often that warrants a electronic ignition. Lived with points condenser in my time. Once a year repair and vehicle was driven every day. Pertronix kit much simpler installation can be done with distributor installed less chance of screw up.
The best reply I can give is to go to the Hemmings article via my website. Since the dwell is based on RPM, the engine runs perfectly throughout the spectrum. This cannot be said for Pertronix or the stock points system. There is nothing better than a smooth, perfectly tuned engine on that occasional Sunday afternoon drive with no surprises!
www.hemmings.com/blog/article/the-lost-art-of-servicing-gm-hei/
@@DevesTechnet The dwell can only be as good as the distributor condition. Any variation in shaft movement (worn bushings or shaft, gear)will cause a dwell to wander. I personally carry a spare set of points and condenser. Nothing is perfect, so what do you do when your electronic ignition leaves you stranded. Just saying.