Dang, I've finally found someone who can explain clearly and concisely, the seating and crimping process using a RCBS dies. Also, thanks for the tip on the locking rings. I was worried about damaging the threads. Now I have great alternative. Excellent video! Thanks so much!
Exactly. I have a Dillon 750 and RCBS dies. The Dillon has separate seating and crimping dies and there are no other videos that explain this combined process. Thank you very much.
superb vid want to get back in to reloading one top knolagable guy first time ever seen someone explain wot a shell holder is and wot number to use for the case looking forward to moor vids keep teaching
Quick tip. Take the thread pitch and divide 1 by the number of threads per inch. For example, 3/8-16... 1/16=.0625. So you know one full rotation will give you .0625 adjustment.
@@atlyvwire Thank you sir. I followed the directions in the video, and the first 8 rounds came out good. After that, the brass on every round came out with a dent in it. I looked inside my seat/crimp die, and deep inside, I saw a small circle of debris. I cleaned the debris with a cue tip and was able to make a few more good rounds before the issue repeated itself. Do you have any experience with this issue?
@@jamesrussell9374 since this is a roll crimp, Try backing the roll crimp off a little bit so it’s not so pronounced. That might be the problem why you’re getting the denting in the case. They can dent if the crimp is too aggressive. I believe the crimp is set and the projectile keeps pushing down and that causes the Denting.
@@jamesrussell9374 That’s fantastic news James. I thought it might be over crimping issue. I do not have a website I’m just a guy with a family and a black lab that’s overweight that likes to reload ammo. Take care😁
Another informative video! I'm just starting using the Hornady single-stage with the 38s/357 RCBS dies. This was the final stage I wanted to get to, set up seating and crimping. Thank you!
Hi Andy, I am just looking to get started with reloading and was going to start with 38 special. It was good to have come across these videos that are very informative for me and I will be using these once I am set-up. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and posting the videos. Best of luck with getting more subscribers. I just became one.
I'm a new reloader. I've learnt so much watching your videos, you step by step instructions, your voice, and precise explaination. Thank you and subb'd
Excellent tutorial. Another tip I use is to put a sized case in the die as I tighten it down. Those 7/8 x 14 threads are pretty sloppy and doing that will center the die perfectly. This is especially important with the progressive reloaders.
Very cool, nice job. I picked up all the details I was missing for crimping and learned a couple more things. Thanks. Maybe you could do a tutorial for 223/5.56? That’s my next project. Already I’ve had to purchase a 2nd die set. Apperantly a FL .223 REM die set is different than AR .223//5.56 die set (I guess you need a small base for doing auto load ammo? Anyway. Great job bro. I appreciate your instruction..
Awesome video. Could you seat bullet out forward towards chamber for custom seating depth ? Similar to same practice for centerfire cartridge. using 357 mag taper crimp die.? This set up would be for henry 357 mag rifle. Thanks. Dave.
I enjoyed it. Had one uncrimped in a box from the range counter sales. Jammed the gun. I'm in the range w/dangerous situation. People in there were they say "set your gun down" on table, go out, get staff, while your gun sits in another room w/5 shooters 3 observers two in prep area glasses n gogs/ and I'm to leave $550.00 9mm sittin there.. NOT. Took it to their small gun shop two rooms over got bitched at for boxing it up in purchase case. They explained six weeks new registration all kinds of government regulations b4 it comes back and the price I could buy a new gun for. Luckily he attempted getting their contracted reloader's bullet out of my gun. It worked.
Excellent video. Good info regarding the locking rings. The ones that came with the dies were always an exercise in frustration. I picked up a set of Hornaday rings on Amazon and never looked back. On a related note, I'd like to see a video on crimping jacketed bullets that don't have a cannelure. I use a taper crimp, but your thoughts on the subject would certainly be welcome.
Hey Moe, thank you for the reply. I am with you on taper crimping when there is no cannelure to roll crimp into because your risk peeling/scraping the jacket right off the projectile when fired. I think that would make a great video to do real soon.
thank you! had so much trouble trying to figure out the process to seat and crimp at the same time. The instructions with my dies were not particularly helpful.
Thanks for the video I’m wondering if this will be the same crimp set up for a 45/70 cartridge? I’m loading snd shooting in a tube fed lever gun and Thanks my set I have is Lee dies the three piece
I have not loaded any 45/70 cartridges however I believe it’s a taper crimp not a roll crimp that you’ll be in countering. follow the manufacturers instructions that should come with that die set.
Hey just found this video although you posted it years ago. When both seating and crimping in one stroke, my 9mm has a large and visible indentation in the brass. It’s a visible cut into the brass. I set it up with only a very slight taper crimp which is only a 1/8th turn when setting up the crimp. Is this normal? When I use my lee factory crimp and resize die, which only does the crimp, I do not see such large of an indentation cut into the brass, it only leaves an impression. Am I doing something wrong or is this expected when using dies that both seat and crimp in one stroke
@@Slasherx28 hey there. Almost sounds like die needs cleaned out, maybe something inside cutting you brass? Indents are usually caused by too much lube on brass or in die or like you mentioned to aggressive of a crimp. Also check bullet seating. Once set if die is pushing bullet at all it will dent the case. Back off the taper crimp a hair after cleaning everything real good. Just some ideas and hope it helps.
I assume this technique can be used for rifle rounds as well? I am beginning to research crimping for rifle rounds as I am planning on soon starting on loading .35 remington, and will need to crimp those as well due to use in a tubular magazine
Yes. Same technique. You just decide whether you’re using a roll crimp or a taper crimp. Rifles use a taper. You might even seat all your bullets first, then go back and crimp them all.
@@atlyvwire thanks for the reply. I am still relatively new to reloading and have yet to load a caliber that requires me to crimp. So far I’ve only done 8mm mauser and 243 win, so I’m just trying to figure out which die set to get for 35 rem. Figure I’ll stick with a rcbs full length set since all my other dies are the same. As long as it’s designed to crimp like this, think it’ll do fine
Hi, I don't use RCBS dies but do load 38 spl. /.357 mags with my die set I have, unfortunately "NO" spacer as a starter point for the set/crimp when switching from 38 special to .357 mag. could you mic the spacer thickness (.1/.2/.3 mm ??) thick and perhaps I could substitute a large washer for the spacer.
you covered my problem with my reloading. I have problem with the 3rd die setting the bullet height and crimp. I reload 9mm and about every time I reload, I will have one shell that will buckle below the bullet when seating. What am I doing wrong?
I usually experience the buckling if my role crimp is too hard, but this is 9mm Luger i presume, so you should be using a taper crimp. Hard to say why it’s crushing every now and then unless maybe your taper crimp is a little too much... use a micrometer and measure the overall circumference at the case mouth. Should be .380
Hi I have a question about some .40 s&w. I seated and crimped the bullet at 1.21 and it should be at 1.125. Could I just reseat the bullet further in or take them apart and start all over? TIA
That’s a good question. Because it’s a taper crimp you can set your pusher to seat it just a little further and you will be fine. If you have your taper crimp set correctly when you push the projectile down that little bit you need, it should not peel the coating.
Thanks for the video. Im reloading .300 win mag and I’ve seen some videos where people say set the bullet and crimp separately if you’re shooting long range (im shooting out to 1000yrd), because supposedly its more accurate because if you do them both at the same time, your and your crimp isnt set perfect, itll scratch the bullet. Thoughts? Is this BS?
I believe it’s preference. If you ask five shooters you’ll probably get five different answers. I have heard the same thing for accuracy so if you were shooting competition I would probably taper crimp after seating the projectile separately.
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Dang, I've finally found someone who can explain clearly and concisely, the seating and crimping process using a RCBS dies. Also, thanks for the tip on the locking rings. I was worried about damaging the threads. Now I have great alternative. Excellent video! Thanks so much!
Charles Lemak you’re very welcome bud. Thank you for the awesome comment!
Why do some of my primers come out when I shout my 308
I have a problem with some of my 308 reloads the primers come out and jam my gun when I shoot the bullet. What can I do to solve this.
This was a Redding die not rcbs
Exactly. I have a Dillon 750 and RCBS dies. The Dillon has separate seating and crimping dies and there are no other videos that explain this combined process. Thank you very much.
Great video. I am new to reloading and I didn’t know you could bullet seat and crimp at the same time. Thanks
Great explanation! Very few people explain well how to calibrate the last die, the most complex of all. Simple and clear! Well done!
Thank you!
Been reloading for over a year and I’ve watched a lot of videos on reloading and this was the best yet
Thanks longshot for that awesome comment!! 😁
Very well explained. Helped me straighten out a problem I was having. Thanks.
superb vid want to get back in to reloading one top knolagable guy first time ever seen someone explain wot a shell holder is and wot number to use for the case looking forward to moor vids keep teaching
Nice job. quick, to the point and very accurate. Thank you
Quick tip. Take the thread pitch and divide 1 by the number of threads per inch. For example, 3/8-16... 1/16=.0625. So you know one full rotation will give you .0625 adjustment.
Good job on explaining this operation
Sweet man, that was a perfect explanation of what to do!
Great video. Explanations are simple and thorough. Thank you.
You’re welcome James, glad I could help buddy.
@@atlyvwire Thank you sir. I followed the directions in the video, and the first 8 rounds came out good. After that, the brass on every round came out with a dent in it. I looked inside my seat/crimp die, and deep inside, I saw a small circle of debris. I cleaned the debris with a cue tip and was able to make a few more good rounds before the issue repeated itself. Do you have any experience with this issue?
@@jamesrussell9374 since this is a roll crimp, Try backing the roll crimp off a little bit so it’s not so pronounced. That might be the problem why you’re getting the denting in the case. They can dent if the crimp is too aggressive. I believe the crimp is set and the projectile keeps pushing down and that causes the Denting.
@@atlyvwire That fixed the problem! Thanks a bunch. I had no idea what was going on. Do you have a website or anything?
@@jamesrussell9374 That’s fantastic news James. I thought it might be over crimping issue. I do not have a website I’m just a guy with a family and a black lab that’s overweight that likes to reload ammo. Take care😁
Another informative video! I'm just starting using the Hornady single-stage with the 38s/357 RCBS dies.
This was the final stage I wanted to get to, set up seating and crimping.
Thank you!
Hi Andy, I am just looking to get started with reloading and was going to start with 38 special. It was good to have come across these videos that are very informative for me and I will be using these once I am set-up. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and posting the videos. Best of luck with getting more subscribers. I just became one.
Thanks Stanley for the nice comment. I’m glad you enjoyed the videos that’s why I make them. Happy reloading!!
Outstanding!
Thank you Sir.
Awesome video!!
Awesome tutorial brother! That just answered all my questions! 🙂👏👏👍
I'm a new reloader. I've learnt so much watching your videos, you step by step instructions, your voice, and precise explaination. Thank you and subb'd
Thank You for the kind words! Have FUN!
Wow, great series. I haven’t done any .38, reloads in 40 years and your videos have reminded me how to start. Thanks
That’s awesome! Thank you for the comment
Excellent tutorial.
Another tip I use is to put a sized case in the die as I tighten it down. Those 7/8 x 14 threads are pretty sloppy and doing that will center the die perfectly. This is especially important with the progressive reloaders.
Hey thanks for the comment. Yeah those threads are a little sloppy I’ll have to try that out!
Your video was very helpful thank you man.
You’re welcome. That’s why I make them!
Good video !
Thank You - like the die lock rings - gunna order me some.
Nice and simple thanks for the video
Your welcome!
Great vidio thank you sir
Very cool, nice job. I picked up all the details I was missing for crimping and learned a couple more things. Thanks.
Maybe you could do a tutorial for 223/5.56? That’s my next project.
Already I’ve had to purchase a 2nd die set. Apperantly a FL .223 REM die set is different than AR .223//5.56 die set (I guess you need a small base for doing auto load ammo? Anyway. Great job bro. I appreciate your instruction..
Nicely done thank you
Sweet, very helpful - thank you
very helpful
Excellent idea
Excellent video! Liked and subscribed. If you happen to load for the 38/40 WCF, would love to see a video on that one.
Great vid. Thanks for posting
Thank you! You’re welcome!
How about a video on 45 colt, crimp with bullet seating. Thanks
Very helpful, thanks for making this video.
Your welcome! I’m glad you found it helpful. 😁
Awesome video. Could you seat bullet out forward towards chamber for custom seating depth ? Similar to same practice for centerfire cartridge. using 357 mag taper crimp die.? This set up would be for henry 357 mag rifle. Thanks. Dave.
I don’t see why you couldn’t, as long as you do not exceed the recommended COL you would be fine.
I enjoyed it. Had one uncrimped in a box from the range counter sales. Jammed the gun. I'm in the range w/dangerous situation. People in there were they say "set your gun down" on table, go out, get staff, while your gun sits in another room w/5 shooters 3 observers two in prep area glasses n gogs/ and I'm to leave $550.00 9mm sittin there.. NOT. Took it to their small gun shop two rooms over got bitched at for boxing it up in purchase case. They explained six weeks new registration all kinds of government regulations b4 it comes back and the price I could buy a new gun for. Luckily he attempted getting their contracted reloader's bullet out of my gun. It worked.
That’s a terrible story, what a pain in the butt. Sorry to hear you had to go through all that trouble!! However I am glad you enjoyed my video! 😊
Excellent video. Good info regarding the locking rings. The ones that came with the dies were always an exercise in frustration. I picked up a set of Hornaday rings on Amazon and never looked back. On a related note, I'd like to see a video on crimping jacketed bullets that don't have a cannelure. I use a taper crimp, but your thoughts on the subject would certainly be welcome.
Hey Moe, thank you for the reply. I am with you on taper crimping when there is no cannelure to roll crimp into because your risk peeling/scraping the jacket right off the projectile when fired. I think that would make a great video to do real soon.
Looking forward to it--many thanks!
Very good video.
Thanks Steve!
thank you! had so much trouble trying to figure out the process to seat and crimp at the same time. The instructions with my dies were not particularly helpful.
Glad I could help!!
Would’ve liked to see you do a few more once you got everything set to see how accurate it was.
Once i got it set, it never changed.
Thanks for the video I’m wondering if this will be the same crimp set up for a 45/70 cartridge? I’m loading snd shooting in a tube fed lever gun and Thanks my set I have is Lee dies the three piece
I have not loaded any 45/70 cartridges however I believe it’s a taper crimp not a roll crimp that you’ll be in countering. follow the manufacturers instructions that should come with that die set.
Have you done a vid on non cannella bullet crimping such as barry's 357 round nose 158 grain. I have never done a non ring bullet before. Please help?
Hey just found this video although you posted it years ago.
When both seating and crimping in one stroke, my 9mm has a large and visible indentation in the brass. It’s a visible cut into the brass. I set it up with only a very slight taper crimp which is only a 1/8th turn when setting up the crimp. Is this normal?
When I use my lee factory crimp and resize die, which only does the crimp, I do not see such large of an indentation cut into the brass, it only leaves an impression.
Am I doing something wrong or is this expected when using dies that both seat and crimp in one stroke
@@Slasherx28 hey there. Almost sounds like die needs cleaned out, maybe something inside cutting you brass? Indents are usually caused by too much lube on brass or in die or like you mentioned to aggressive of a crimp. Also check bullet seating. Once set if die is pushing bullet at all it will dent the case. Back off the taper crimp a hair after cleaning everything real good. Just some ideas and hope it helps.
I assume this technique can be used for rifle rounds as well? I am beginning to research crimping for rifle rounds as I am planning on soon starting on loading .35 remington, and will need to crimp those as well due to use in a tubular magazine
Yes. Same technique. You just decide whether you’re using a roll crimp or a taper crimp. Rifles use a taper. You might even seat all your bullets first, then go back and crimp them all.
@@atlyvwire thanks for the reply. I am still relatively new to reloading and have yet to load a caliber that requires me to crimp. So far I’ve only done 8mm mauser and 243 win, so I’m just trying to figure out which die set to get for 35 rem. Figure I’ll stick with a rcbs full length set since all my other dies are the same. As long as it’s designed to crimp like this, think it’ll do fine
@@xringarcher1440 it’s nice to know you’re in the hobby. Plan on screwing some up, go slow and have fun doing it.!!!
Hi, I don't use RCBS dies but do load 38 spl. /.357 mags with my die set I have, unfortunately "NO" spacer as a starter point for the set/crimp when switching from 38 special to .357 mag. could you mic the spacer thickness (.1/.2/.3 mm ??) thick and perhaps I could substitute a large washer for the spacer.
I measured my spacer for you. It is 0.1260 in or 3.20 mm. 😁
you covered my problem with my reloading. I have problem with the 3rd die setting the bullet height and crimp. I reload 9mm and about every time I reload, I will have one shell that will buckle below the bullet when seating. What am I doing wrong?
I usually experience the buckling if my role crimp is too hard, but this is 9mm Luger i presume, so you should be using a taper crimp. Hard to say why it’s crushing every now and then unless maybe your taper crimp is a little too much... use a micrometer and measure the overall circumference at the case mouth. Should be .380
Hi I have a question about some .40 s&w. I seated and crimped the bullet at 1.21 and it should be at 1.125. Could I just reseat the bullet further in or take them apart and start all over? TIA
That’s a good question. Because it’s a taper crimp you can set your pusher to seat it just a little further and you will be fine. If you have your taper crimp set correctly when you push the projectile down that little bit you need, it should not peel the coating.
@@atlyvwire Thank you!! I will give it a try!
Just a question does your die read on top as being a taper crimp? RCBS 38-357 Taper crimp
I’m out of town and will be home this weekend. I will take a look for it and get back to you. 😎
how about in 9 mm and 357 sig thanks for the info
Thanks for the video. Im reloading .300 win mag and I’ve seen some videos where people say set the bullet and crimp separately if you’re shooting long range (im shooting out to 1000yrd), because supposedly its more accurate because if you do them both at the same time, your and your crimp isnt set perfect, itll scratch the bullet. Thoughts? Is this BS?
I believe it’s preference. If you ask five shooters you’ll probably get five different answers. I have heard the same thing for accuracy so if you were shooting competition I would probably taper crimp after seating the projectile separately.
Thompsons Thanks for your response. Probably better safe than sorry. It’s already time consuming, whats another 15-20 minutes gunna hurt.
Look at all those primers.
whereb is the link to the locking rings?
www.amazon.com/Hornady-044606-Sure-Loc-Lock-Ring/dp/B001OPTMU4
Charlie bb: you forgot to mention how to adjust for TAPER crimp. This is extremely important!!!!
Well since were crimping 38 special and 357 I think not. If you want to see a taper crimp go watch the video on the 45 ACP.
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good luck!!
How can I get in touch with you by email?
You can email me at atlyvwire@gmail.com
@@atlyvwire in bound shortly
Dude that is not a quarter inch look at a tape measure yours have turns that about 5 times for a quarter inch
I wonder if what you’re referring to should’ve been quarter turn not quarter inch….