Thanks mate for the great step by step how to frame. I am a newbie to laser engraving and I found your video the most helpful as others on TH-cam do not explain it as well as you. Thank You.
Good video. Very clearly explained. Thanks. The first video that makes me understand it completely. It is nice that you show the settings and image of the laser at work together so you understand what the settings do. Nothing against others who show a video but being a novice myself I need a little more info to understand it.
Thanks for clearly covering this topic. Not sure what I did wrong but now my OLM3 won't frame. When I click on frame the laser leaves home, gets to where it's going to start the frame, stops at that spot and will not proceed to frame the object. From there all i can do is go back to home. Suggestions?
If you have a hole punch for paper. You could put that in the center of your work. Fire the laser (low power). Once the work is centered. Just blow it away or pick it up with a needle.
Hello, could you teach me how to do the framing with the laser activated as shown in the video. because here when i do the framing the laser point goes out.
THIS VIDEO HELPED SO MUCH! I can frame my Longer Ray5 now accurately! Teh beams visible with about 1.75% power (175ma?) I chose to have the HOLD-SHIFT as an option. GREAT! I was having such a hard time aligning things. THUMBS UP!!! edit: my biggest issue was the missing MOVE tab but found out how to add that and all my options became available. ALSO - bought the Freemascot safety glasses wth your referral link, I trust your opinion on these.
I'm glad it's helped and that you were able to re-add the move tab from the window menu. Those Freemascot glasses are much better than the simple ones included with most lasers! I'm glad you picked them up!
The rubber band framing is not always useful depending on the shape of your object being engraved or your artwork. But when working with a non square item, using the center point origin can be very helpful in getting the engraving lined up. If you are going to make multiples of an item, it would be worth the time to set up a jig to help align your artwork to your object, or you can also look at the camera options for lightburn to get you within 1mm of alignment for custom items.
LA Hobby Guy is good, but your videos are good too. Always nice to see other people’s perspectives so you can try what’s good for others to come up with your own methods. I like your method of using a low power fire mode to center the object up, then use LAHG method of low power framing. I like his method of having multiple passes on the framing by using a low power setting. Just have to be careful to make sure it’s the only power setting for the entire job. It can be dangerous if you leave something in there while using a non-framing mode. That’ll be a great way to get yourself burned if you’re in there messing with it and it decides to kick off to another part of the job and start blasting you…
Correct, you can adjust the fire setting in lightburn by .25% and the idea is to bring it up just enough so that you can see it but it is so low power that it will not make a mark while framing. If you left it in one spot for too long it could end up leaving a mark.
Yes you could if you have made a spoilboard with those markings, however on smaller one off items, I still like to manually test the alignment with the framing function to double check the alignment.
You can frame without the low power beam on but you would get as precise of an alignment. If you make sure the laser fire option is set to .25% or .50% it’s at a very low power and relatively safe. It’s good to be safety minded and cautious when using these tools.
Usually I have it set to .5% which will be too low to see with the glasses on. As long as you are not framing on something reflective, you should be okay to frame with the laser on and without your goggles but make sure your laser is set to the minimum power you need to make the dot show up.
You find that under the Edit > Machine Settings options and then it's only available when you Enable Laser Fire Button. You'll then need to make sure your move tab is selected under the window menu.
The most important thingin lightburn for me is a 0 positioning.Finding the starting point. G10 L2 P1 x(num) y(num).I hope you know what i ment by this command i hope. It was a real problem for me.the laser was travelling around as a maniac.Bumping into the walls😂.And i was getting strange cordinates with minus.Example: -1200.😮I solved that issue.
I did mention that as an option to turn on but I prefer to keep it off so that I'm always proactive about when the laser will turn on. When dealing with more reflective items or when someone else happens to be using the machine I don't want them accidently flashed with laser light.
I don't know why people use [FRAME] its a terrible method. Just measure the material, make a square shape in light burn. make laser go in to one corner align with the beam than / opposite corner align and you have perfect square in 10 seconds.
It’s not always a square… sometimes you need to know where the edge is but like in this video he made the 8 ball. If he tried that method the laser would be off the object to be engraved.
Cameras are an option but not everyone has them. I’ve also found them to be hit or miss and can still end up off by a mm or two. On a hard to replace item, I’d still frame it to be sure that it’s aligned.
Problem with camera its only aligned at the distance you aligned it to, change the distance and you have to make adjustments so really no faster then using framing methods. Fiber laser if you want some real fast reliable alignment.
Sorry, for the thumbs down. Why didn't you use the Tool "T1" or "T2" selection around what you intend to etch? It would quickly show where the laser will be working to etch what's being engraved.
The framing function outlines the extents of the actual artwork and the tool selection is not needed in this case. If I needed to outline an object larger than my engraving artwork I would use the tool feature. Both way are valid and in the case of doing multiple items, I would spend the time to make a jig for alignment. But in the case of a one off items like this, I just use the framing tool as a relatively quick way to get it lined up.
Great tutorial, I learned a lot. Thanks very much. Just one (very annoying) observation; please STOP saying "I'm gonna go ahead" every other sentence. PLEASE, PLEASE it drives people mad! 🙂
This method just doesn't make sense to me. WAY too time consuming. Too much guessing, its ridiculous. Listen people there is an easier way. All you have to do is measure your work piece, add a square with the exact dimensions in work area in lightburn and work from inside the square. Center your design inside the square and "voila" you're all set. Your job origin can start from the corner or the center. It takes literally seconds to do this. Very accurately. Save yourself the hassle and frustration. Do not do it the way he decribes in this video!
There are many different ways to do things in lightburn and not everyway makes sense for everyone. I'll never tell someone their way is wrong even if it does not make sense to me. Not all work pieces are square and have an easy reference point so this is one way to check alignment. You can make an alignment jig, start from center, frame and adjust or use a camera. All are valid ways to try to align your work.
Bro Jesus thank you very much. You are the only one on TH-cam that literally showed step by step how to home in the framing. Thank you!!!
Glad I could help!
Thanks mate for the great step by step how to frame. I am a newbie to laser engraving and I found your video the most helpful as others on TH-cam do not explain it as well as you. Thank You.
Extremely well presented. I have needed this for a while as I am a nubie. Thanks!!
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for this video. I have not seen a light from my laser when framing. Now I know what to do. Thank you once more
Happy to help!
Good video. Very clearly explained. Thanks. The first video that makes me understand it completely. It is nice that you show the settings and image of the laser at work together so you understand what the settings do. Nothing against others who show a video but being a novice myself I need a little more info to understand it.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Awesome tutorial. Like sitting in a friends shop talking.
Glad to hear it! I try to share things like this so others can pick up tips on using their lasers!
I was lost figuring this out. Thank you so much .
I'm glad it helped!
Thank you.
Thank you very much, just the setting to slow down the framing was something I never setup before watching this video.
Really like the frame in a frame on the video so I could see the laser and lightburn at the same time
I'm glad both views together were useful to really see what is going on.
Thank you, I am new to this. Slowing the frame will be fantastic. I use the up/down keys to move my art work, and control-up/down for smaller moves.
Thank you!!!! So hard to find this info elsewhere!
Glad it was helpful!
Appreciate your time to go over this. Thanks 😊
Thanks for clearly covering this topic. Not sure what I did wrong but now my OLM3 won't frame. When I click on frame the laser leaves home, gets to where it's going to start the frame, stops at that spot and will not proceed to frame the object. From there all i can do is go back to home. Suggestions?
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing. I really enjoy your videos.
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching!
I place a straight edge under my work to line it up do my text Frame it job done this has to be the best feature on Lightburn
If you have a hole punch for paper. You could put that in the center of your work. Fire the laser (low power). Once the work is centered. Just blow it away or pick it up with a needle.
Awesome. Thanks for the info. I just ordered my first laser. The Roly lasermatic 10. It uses lightburn. How hard is lightburn for a beginner?
Hello, could you teach me how to do the framing with the laser activated as shown in the video. because here when i do the framing the laser point goes out.
THIS VIDEO HELPED SO MUCH! I can frame my Longer Ray5 now accurately! Teh beams visible with about 1.75% power (175ma?) I chose to have the HOLD-SHIFT as an option. GREAT! I was having such a hard time aligning things. THUMBS UP!!!
edit: my biggest issue was the missing MOVE tab but found out how to add that and all my options became available.
ALSO - bought the Freemascot safety glasses wth your referral link, I trust your opinion on these.
I'm glad it's helped and that you were able to re-add the move tab from the window menu. Those Freemascot glasses are much better than the simple ones included with most lasers! I'm glad you picked them up!
The second one is so confusing..so the key to rubber band is to start in center?..thanks so much
The rubber band framing is not always useful depending on the shape of your object being engraved or your artwork. But when working with a non square item, using the center point origin can be very helpful in getting the engraving lined up. If you are going to make multiples of an item, it would be worth the time to set up a jig to help align your artwork to your object, or you can also look at the camera options for lightburn to get you within 1mm of alignment for custom items.
Great Information
Jesus you make this make sense .... thank you !!
This is tremendously helpful. Thanks!
Glad to hear it, thanks!
LA Hobby Guy is good, but your videos are good too. Always nice to see other people’s perspectives so you can try what’s good for others to come up with your own methods. I like your method of using a low power fire mode to center the object up, then use LAHG method of low power framing. I like his method of having multiple passes on the framing by using a low power setting. Just have to be careful to make sure it’s the only power setting for the entire job. It can be dangerous if you leave something in there while using a non-framing mode. That’ll be a great way to get yourself burned if you’re in there messing with it and it decides to kick off to another part of the job and start blasting you…
Couldn't figure out who I didn't have the "fire Laser: option. Thank you.
Glad the video helped!
So your 0.5 settin g on the laser is only allowing you to see the dot for alignment purposes but not actually leaving a mark on the material?
Correct, you can adjust the fire setting in lightburn by .25% and the idea is to bring it up just enough so that you can see it but it is so low power that it will not make a mark while framing. If you left it in one spot for too long it could end up leaving a mark.
@@Vintauri gotcha. Thank you.
Couldn't you load in whatever grid file you used as a reference in Lightburn to align from that also?
Yes you could if you have made a spoilboard with those markings, however on smaller one off items, I still like to manually test the alignment with the framing function to double check the alignment.
I’m new to laser world do I have to use the fire button kinda scares me
You can frame without the low power beam on but you would get as precise of an alignment. If you make sure the laser fire option is set to .25% or .50% it’s at a very low power and relatively safe. It’s good to be safety minded and cautious when using these tools.
Should I use the safety glasses DURING the framing?
Usually I have it set to .5% which will be too low to see with the glasses on. As long as you are not framing on something reflective, you should be okay to frame with the laser on and without your goggles but make sure your laser is set to the minimum power you need to make the dot show up.
hey, I am wondering what's the output power of your laser head? is it 20W?
The laser used in this video was a 10watt unit.
Thankyou. Good video
Can Not find way to speed up framing speed?
Go into your move tab and adjust the speed, that will increase or decrease your framing speed.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
I don't see laser on when framing option please help
You find that under the Edit > Machine Settings options and then it's only available when you Enable Laser Fire Button. You'll then need to make sure your move tab is selected under the window menu.
@@Vintauri well i found the solution i was using the old lightburn that was installed on the sd card that came with the laser engraver thanks anyway😁
Great help, Thank yo
Glad it helped!
I have atom stack and there’s no move button from ur tutorial
You should be able to add it. Go to the Window menu up top and make sure Move is checked that should make it appear in your side panel.
The most important thingin lightburn for me is a 0 positioning.Finding the starting point.
G10 L2 P1 x(num) y(num).I hope you know what i ment by this command i hope.
It was a real problem for me.the laser was travelling around as a maniac.Bumping into the walls😂.And i was getting strange cordinates with minus.Example: -1200.😮I solved that issue.
HI, guess u didn't notice the button that says (Laser on when framing) but still a good vid for beginners ;)
I did mention that as an option to turn on but I prefer to keep it off so that I'm always proactive about when the laser will turn on. When dealing with more reflective items or when someone else happens to be using the machine I don't want them accidently flashed with laser light.
I don't know why people use [FRAME] its a terrible method. Just measure the material, make a square shape in light burn. make laser go in to one corner align with the beam than / opposite corner align and you have perfect square in 10 seconds.
It’s not always a square… sometimes you need to know where the edge is but like in this video he made the 8 ball. If he tried that method the laser would be off the object to be engraved.
Why not just add a $30 camera module to the set up? Saves sooooo much time.
Cameras are an option but not everyone has them. I’ve also found them to be hit or miss and can still end up off by a mm or two. On a hard to replace item, I’d still frame it to be sure that it’s aligned.
Problem with camera its only aligned at the distance you aligned it to, change the distance and you have to make adjustments so really no faster then using framing methods. Fiber laser if you want some real fast reliable alignment.
Sorry, for the thumbs down. Why didn't you use the Tool "T1" or "T2" selection around what you intend to etch? It would quickly show where the laser will be working to etch what's being engraved.
The framing function outlines the extents of the actual artwork and the tool selection is not needed in this case. If I needed to outline an object larger than my engraving artwork I would use the tool feature. Both way are valid and in the case of doing multiple items, I would spend the time to make a jig for alignment. But in the case of a one off items like this, I just use the framing tool as a relatively quick way to get it lined up.
Great tutorial, I learned a lot. Thanks very much. Just one (very annoying) observation; please STOP saying "I'm gonna go ahead" every other sentence. PLEASE, PLEASE it drives people mad! 🙂
This method just doesn't make sense to me. WAY too time consuming. Too much guessing, its ridiculous.
Listen people there is an easier way. All you have to do is measure your work piece, add a square with the exact dimensions in work area in lightburn and work from inside the square. Center your design inside the square and "voila" you're all set. Your job origin can start from the corner or the center.
It takes literally seconds to do this. Very accurately. Save yourself the hassle and frustration. Do not do it the way he decribes in this video!
There are many different ways to do things in lightburn and not everyway makes sense for everyone. I'll never tell someone their way is wrong even if it does not make sense to me. Not all work pieces are square and have an easy reference point so this is one way to check alignment. You can make an alignment jig, start from center, frame and adjust or use a camera. All are valid ways to try to align your work.