Do not use WD40 or PB blaster on the surface of knuckle housing when you install the strut. The struts are hold by the knuckle housing by the clamping force and any grease or oil will reduce the clamping force significant. That may cause your struts drop out of the knuckle under heavy load! (ask how I know). If you read the BMW repair manual of installing struts into the knuckle housing, it stresses that the contact surface must be clean and free of any oil.
Thanks for the advice. Did you also have KW's? The collar is definitely thicker than OEM, but I suppose hitting the area with brake clean to remove the lubricant wouldn't hurt.
@@FritzRamos I had Bilstein B16 and TC Kline installed. Some struts (like OE) are designed in the way that they have a taper in case the knuckle housing can not clamp the strut tight enough but that's just a fail safe mechanism. By design, it is still the clamping force that's holding the struts. Yes removing the grease with brake cleaner and wiping them clean before installing is a good idea. If the collar is too thick to fit in, you can spread the knuckle a bit further. BTW, the factory manual says 44NM + 90 degrees turn for pinch bolt (better replace them).
This doesn't seem to make sense. How could the strut drop out of the knuckle if it is held at the top and the bottom? How can it drop out of the knuckle? That's a questionable design. Surprised there isn't a lip or cleat or something to prevent it from popping out due to a lack of friction.
You make the best videos man, down to the torque specs. You work on cars with such grace lol everything is proper and thought out. I appreciate all the time and effort you put into these videos and helping people out
This is the first time i'm ever commenting on youtube and i just want to say ,bro, your vids are actually insane! I don't know how the hell you haven't got 100k subs yet with the quality of content you're presenting. Extremely crisp footage with easy to follow instructions which are told in such a professional manner, it's only a matter of time before you blow up! Good work, keep it up man
just installed the kw v2 today. honestly if it wasn't for the rewiring in the edc delete kit we would have been done in like 3 hours. your video helped alot! thank you!! ride quality it significantly better for comfort and handling over just H&R springs i had before. adjustable height is a must!
@@FritzRamos well the instructions are not very good but everything will click when it is in place correctly. make sure you pay attention to what wire goes in what side. one wire will be solid the other will have a stripe. a small pick tool is needed and be gentle.
Funny, we do many things at almost the same time. I got last week the KW V3! It completely changed the driving experience! Keep up the good content man, really underrated channel!
Thanks! I was thinking about the V3s, but I'm lazy so I went with the DDC. You definitely have more adjustability though. How do you like the drop in height?
@@FritzRamos I didn’t drop it all the way possible. It’s also very flexibel! It’s low enough to look good and drive comfortable without problems. That was important for me because it’s my daily driver. After a week I lifted the front 2 turns, it was settling a tiny bit and was already a bit too low. Now for me it’s perfect. How do you like how the car drives now?
Agree Fritz, your videos are really awesome. I've learned so much about my car (2014 435i,) & how to fully spec it out without breaking the bank. Keep it up!
@@FritzRamos I'm not really wanting to do a build, because I prefer a more luxury centric look than a performance/M look. Thankfully, the previous owner opted for the Luxury Package which comes with a smooth, chrome accented rear bumper and sleeker front bumper with fog lights. There's a few other options on the car, such as PDC with only the rear camera & front sensors I prefer performance cars with an emphasis on luxury & tech. Unfortunately, the Luxury Package comes only with the regular leather seats, not the sport seats that I have a soft spot for...but, that's something I can do later on if I want. Really, right now just looking to upgrade the idrive controller, screen, replace instrument cluster with the digital one, swap out taillights for the M4 GTS LED sequential ones, swap out front adaptive Xenon headlights with the Adaptive full LED headlights. Want to add the Driver Assistance Package, which adds kafas2 camera to windshield & a HUD system in the dash. Those are bigger jobs & think I should hand those off to a pro. Are you gonna get the new LED taillights or headlights for the M2?
looking forward for the reviews, So far you have done so many handling upgrades! I wonder if you could do a video ranking them or reviewing them all together for budget minded folks like which ones to start with before moving onto others.
Hi Fritz, I’ve installed b14’s on my m240i. My driver’s side (rhs here in Australia) is sitting 14 mm lower than the passenger side with the same height on threads. Rear is perfect. I can’t figure why. Why do you think that might be? Thanks
I went to your tools list but I couldn't find the pass-thru socket/ratchet set, and it's not the same torque wrench. Which are you using? Thank you! Great video also!!
Great Video! Where does the "purple" perch sit with respect to top of tire? I am running wider tires than you and have very little room to the existing strut?
Hi Fritz, one question. For the front, i see some people taking the lower control arm bolts out in order to get the shocks out. Is that necessary? As I see you didnt have to do that. Tks
Hey Fritz, came back to this video, I recently did millway street camber plates on my 440i xdrive with KW DDC coils, and I am getting alot of spring binding and terrible ride in comfort mode with a bad rattle (probably from the springs)...
I can only suggest adjusting the spring height. It might be "out of spec" from what KW recommends but that recommendation is based on the OEM top hat. Aftermarket top hats might sit further in the strut tower. At least that's what KW told me. Start at the max recommend height then go up by 2-3 spins at a time. That's how I did it when I got the swift springs. The video below might be more helpful. th-cam.com/video/5GUSlvSTn0Q/w-d-xo.html
@@FritzRamos I asked KW about running the slightly stiffer 2025 spring to get more ride height and travel at a lower perch setting, they said it might blow the dampers, but only 30lb/in more? KW sent me fresh 2041 springs and I plan to take the towers apart and triple check everything with fresh bump stops, springs, thrust bearings, and gaskets/rubber. I am worried it’s the millway plates causing the issue, but as far as I can tell they are the same dimension as oem plates.
Great videos - hope you keep making them - super informative! Is it possible to just upgrade to coilovers? Or do you need to also upgrade the control arms, end links, anything else? I imagine the coilovers change the length needed for the control arms, end links, etc., but is that really the case? What's the disadvantage of running stock control arms, end links, etc with new coilovers? Thanks!
You can change just the coil overs if you want. The other parts are not necessary for the install, with the one possible exception being the endlinks. The OEM ones, may not physically fit with the KWs in.
Nice! I was actually thinking about LSD or Coils before deciding on these. The LSD might be the next big performance mod after some upcoming maintenance. I was thinking about WaveTrac, what do you have?
@@FritzRamos I went with the easy "plug n play" of the mperformance one since the pumpkin is already attached. Fluid wasn't cheap either. Totally worth it. Wish I would've done it prior to Coilovers and camber plates for sure. Right after LCA would've been best timing to get bang for buck.
Yeah I went LSD first before anything and it made a massive difference. Im running HR springs now and it actually feels pretty good especially when I went up to 235 width tires in the front. Installing Vorshlag plates next week. Ill see how that with HR springs is for a budget setup.
Is the KW kit you installed a V1, V2, or V3? Or can you please share the part number. The link in the description looks different from the part you installed. On the SVBimmer link it shows the rear springs differently from what you installed. Much appreciated
If i tighten the excentric bolt of toe arm more than 100 nm, will i have to change the bolt the washer and the lock nut or just the lock nut ?! Thanks for.your reply 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
this stuff is getting confusing for me especially when thinking about getting wider wheel/ tyre setups with differnt sidewalls and it just becomes specific to everyones car. So hard to know if i can lower the car enough for track efficiency while not rubbing especially with the 2 series which doesnt have much room in the wheel well
hi, thank you for this great video. Is the ddc in sport or sport+, too harsh for daily? On the other side, do the ddc too soft for track work? Thank you!!
I'm in California where the roads aren't the greatest and even with the camber plates Sport+ is fine. As far as the track is concerned, I would try it as is and if you want more you can change out to a stiffer spring, some people who do that go with swift. Hope that helped
What happened with the End links? Is it because the Swaybar is too thick compared to H&R for ex. (F:28 R:20). Or are there special end links that work with KW Coilovers? What if I wanted to mount my Swaybars in there least stiffer position? Any End links you would recommend?
It had more to do with the KW mounting position being off from OEM. If you call SPL Parts, ask for Turner and tell him you need the same setup as Fritz on the m235i. If you need to, reference this video
Thanks man!! I'll definatly will do. Any regrets regarding the Turner (KW) sway bars? (or prefer others) Do they scratch on any of the arms or are too thick by any means? Love your Videos.. learned so much from you. The best on YT!! gratefull for your work 🙏
The strut spreader i’m using is about the same dimensions as the one you linked, but i’m having a pretty difficult time pulling the strut from the knuckle. Anyone have tips on separating the two?
@@FritzRamos Thanks i’ll give it another go this weekend! Also, would having the other side of the car on the ground limit the brake assembly from lowering from the strut? Love the car btw, proper setup for an F22 👍🏽
Hello, nice M235i and nice job! Can you tell me your settings : distance of the center of the wheel to the arch in the front and in the rear? I have KW DDC on my M235i, with front M2TS +LCA, and the car was very low in the front, even at the higher setup of the coilover...so i have installed harder springs, and I am trying to find the good settings in order to have a balanced car!
You might want to look into the Bilstein B16, I think the drop in height is less than the KW. You Will still see an improvement in handling as your spring rate and dampening will improve.
Fritz. Another high quality video. Your videos have saved me much time. I spoke to KW suspensions technical support - “John” about aftermarket adjustable sway links for V2 install on a M240. He recommended not doing it and informed me it would void lifetime warranty. I was considering Turner adjustable end links about 25 mm shorter than stock to eliminate pre- load I will not be doing that. Also question on M2/3/4 cf brace install with Vorslog What is spec on bolts ? I ordered off the list from video but all bolts were too large for 3 holes on camber plate appear to be 8 mm and maybe 1.5 pitch. Thanks again
Thanks. What does KW suggest you do, run without end links? It might work with a stock sway bar, but if you go aftermarket there's no way. Even if you did use adjustable end links, how would they know? 😉 For the CF brace, you have the exact same camber plate right?
Hey has your passenger seatbelt ever gotten stuck like it won’t retract nor release? If so what do you do to make it work? I also have an m235i I’ve been looking for videos on that topic and I haven’t found nothing helpful
Hey, I worked today on the front. Pulled the OEM EDC out and fitted HR lowering springs. Putting the strut in now but it is very hard to put it back. Will continue tomorrow, any tips? Do I need to undo any arms to have more room? Any suggestions?
If you are using a spring compressor, then you can install the the top hat once the strut is in the wheel well with the compressed spring. You could also loosen the thrust arm and lower control arm if you prefer to install it as one unit. Just make sure to tighten the arms at ride height if you have the rubber bushings.
@@FritzRamos i have the lowering allready assembled on the strut. It’s a trick to get the tophat in and the foot of the strut in the knuckle. It’s seems I need to undo the arms(which I try to avoid). Any tips still? Cheers!
Thanks for the awesome guide! I just installed the same kw v3 DDC kit and front camber plate on my m240i, but I'm getting some clunking at lower speeds when driving over small bumps. Already double checked everything was torqued correctly and nothing was loose. It definitely wasn't there before. I'm think the sway bar links need to be shorter to release some of the preload (all other suspension stuff is OEM). It seems like it's only coming from the front right. Any suggestions?
Do not use WD40 or PB blaster on the surface of knuckle housing when you install the strut. The struts are hold by the knuckle housing by the clamping force and any grease or oil will reduce the clamping force significant. That may cause your struts drop out of the knuckle under heavy load! (ask how I know). If you read the BMW repair manual of installing struts into the knuckle housing, it stresses that the contact surface must be clean and free of any oil.
Thanks for the advice. Did you also have KW's? The collar is definitely thicker than OEM, but I suppose hitting the area with brake clean to remove the lubricant wouldn't hurt.
@@FritzRamos I had Bilstein B16 and TC Kline installed. Some struts (like OE) are designed in the way that they have a taper in case the knuckle housing can not clamp the strut tight enough but that's just a fail safe mechanism. By design, it is still the clamping force that's holding the struts. Yes removing the grease with brake cleaner and wiping them clean before installing is a good idea. If the collar is too thick to fit in, you can spread the knuckle a bit further. BTW, the factory manual says 44NM + 90 degrees turn for pinch bolt (better replace them).
@@TrackandBuild👍 Thanks for sharing your setup and insight.
@@TrackandBuild Yes torque to yield, replace please 🥺.
This doesn't seem to make sense. How could the strut drop out of the knuckle if it is held at the top and the bottom? How can it drop out of the knuckle? That's a questionable design. Surprised there isn't a lip or cleat or something to prevent it from popping out due to a lack of friction.
You make the best videos man, down to the torque specs. You work on cars with such grace lol everything is proper and thought out. I appreciate all the time and effort you put into these videos and helping people out
This is the first time i'm ever commenting on youtube and i just want to say ,bro, your vids are actually insane! I don't know how the hell you haven't got 100k subs yet with the quality of content you're presenting. Extremely crisp footage with easy to follow instructions which are told in such a professional manner, it's only a matter of time before you blow up! Good work, keep it up man
Thank you for that!🙇 I really appreciate it and am glad that you found the videos helpful! I'll take it as motivation to keep improving.
Seriously… Next level
just installed the kw v2 today. honestly if it wasn't for the rewiring in the edc delete kit we would have been done in like 3 hours. your video helped alot! thank you!! ride quality it significantly better for comfort and handling over just H&R springs i had before. adjustable height is a must!
Glad the video was helpful. For someone who has to do the wiring like you, what advice would you give?
@@FritzRamos well the instructions are not very good but everything will click when it is in place correctly. make sure you pay attention to what wire goes in what side. one wire will be solid the other will have a stripe. a small pick tool is needed and be gentle.
@@AK47s4EveryOne Right on thanks for sharing as well as your comparison between the V2s and springs.
Funny, we do many things at almost the same time. I got last week the KW V3! It completely changed the driving experience!
Keep up the good content man, really underrated channel!
Thanks! I was thinking about the V3s, but I'm lazy so I went with the DDC. You definitely have more adjustability though. How do you like the drop in height?
@@FritzRamos I didn’t drop it all the way possible. It’s also very flexibel! It’s low enough to look good and drive comfortable without problems. That was important for me because it’s my daily driver. After a week I lifted the front 2 turns, it was settling a tiny bit and was already a bit too low. Now for me it’s perfect. How do you like how the car drives now?
I have never seen any BMW F22 which has done so many handling improvements. I almost dare to bet that it drives better than an E46. Great work!
Say what?! Thank you. That is quite the compliment, but the f22 must still respect it's elder e46 😅
Agree Fritz, your videos are really awesome. I've learned so much about my car (2014 435i,) & how to fully spec it out without breaking the bank. Keep it up!
Thank you, glad you found the videos helpful. Especially the 435 is the bigger brother to the m235i. How is your build coming along?
@@FritzRamos I'm not really wanting to do a build, because I prefer a more luxury centric look than a performance/M look. Thankfully, the previous owner opted for the Luxury Package which comes with a smooth, chrome accented rear bumper and sleeker front bumper with fog lights.
There's a few other options on the car, such as PDC with only the rear camera & front sensors
I prefer performance cars with an emphasis on luxury & tech. Unfortunately, the Luxury Package comes only with the regular leather seats, not the sport seats that I have a soft spot for...but, that's something I can do later on if I want.
Really, right now just looking to upgrade the idrive controller, screen, replace instrument cluster with the digital one, swap out taillights for the M4 GTS LED sequential ones, swap out front adaptive Xenon headlights with the Adaptive full LED headlights.
Want to add the Driver Assistance Package, which adds kafas2 camera to windshield & a HUD system in the dash. Those are bigger jobs & think I should hand those off to a pro.
Are you gonna get the new LED taillights or headlights for the M2?
Yeah bro! Nice work. Love my 235i, have done brake work but not struts. This is inspiring me! 😎🤙
You can do it! Some people in the comments also shared some useful information
looking forward for the reviews, So far you have done so many handling upgrades! I wonder if you could do a video ranking them or reviewing them all together for budget minded folks like which ones to start with before moving onto others.
Good idea! Just one more suspension mod to go then I'll get to work on your idea of a review. Thanks!
Very impressed Fritz, Top job
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful
Very Nice Fritz! 🔥🔥🔥
Thanks Scott
What front end link length did you need for the kw ddc?
Woah the final result is 🔥 Good fitment
Just came to see how it handles. Couldn't believe the vague corner control first time I took a spirited drive in my F22.
Love your videos, Fritz. I think I'm going to go with these for my 2015 M235... And just unplug/code out EDC.
Hi Fritz, I’ve installed b14’s on my m240i. My driver’s side (rhs here in Australia) is sitting 14 mm lower than the passenger side with the same height on threads. Rear is perfect. I can’t figure why. Why do you think that might be? Thanks
Nice work!!!
Thank you!
@@FritzRamos i have an m235i too, how can i get in touch with u ? I have some questions. Thks
First!! The build is coming together so well
Thank you. How is yours coming along?
I went to your tools list but I couldn't find the pass-thru socket/ratchet set, and it's not the same torque wrench. Which are you using? Thank you! Great video also!!
Just checked. It's there and should be in stock
Hiiii. Amazing colour. What name or colour is thar? Blue...
Great Video! Where does the "purple" perch sit with respect to top of tire? I am running wider tires than you and have very little room to the existing strut?
Can you share some more information about the custom front end links? How can we get them too? :)
Hi Fritz, one question. For the front, i see some people taking the lower control arm bolts out in order to get the shocks out. Is that necessary? As I see you didnt have to do that. Tks
I've seen that too. I didn't have to, but if you can't separate it in the wheel well it's worth a shot.
@@FritzRamos Tks, bud.
awesome presentation. Keep it going and hope you get a more appropriate following
Thanks Thomas! How's your car coming along? Hope you are doing well and wishing you all the best for the holidays
Hey Fritz, came back to this video, I recently did millway street camber plates on my 440i xdrive with KW DDC coils, and I am getting alot of spring binding and terrible ride in comfort mode with a bad rattle (probably from the springs)...
I can only suggest adjusting the spring height. It might be "out of spec" from what KW recommends but that recommendation is based on the OEM top hat. Aftermarket top hats might sit further in the strut tower. At least that's what KW told me.
Start at the max recommend height then go up by 2-3 spins at a time. That's how I did it when I got the swift springs. The video below might be more helpful.
th-cam.com/video/5GUSlvSTn0Q/w-d-xo.html
@@FritzRamos I asked KW about running the slightly stiffer 2025 spring to get more ride height and travel at a lower perch setting, they said it might blow the dampers, but only 30lb/in more? KW sent me fresh 2041 springs and I plan to take the towers apart and triple check everything with fresh bump stops, springs, thrust bearings, and gaskets/rubber. I am worried it’s the millway plates causing the issue, but as far as I can tell they are the same dimension as oem plates.
Hey Fritz, would you recommend doing coilovers or LCA/tension rods first? Which made a more noticeable improvement?
Looking back on it I would probably do the camber plates and coilovers first as they mad a more significant improvement to the cars handling.
Great videos - hope you keep making them - super informative! Is it possible to just upgrade to coilovers? Or do you need to also upgrade the control arms, end links, anything else? I imagine the coilovers change the length needed for the control arms, end links, etc., but is that really the case? What's the disadvantage of running stock control arms, end links, etc with new coilovers? Thanks!
You can change just the coil overs if you want. The other parts are not necessary for the install, with the one possible exception being the endlinks. The OEM ones, may not physically fit with the KWs in.
If all else fails, Whiteline endlinks come in various lengths to suit your needs.
Vorshlag and kw here as well, LSD worth it though as well. Maybe that's next for you?
Nice! I was actually thinking about LSD or Coils before deciding on these. The LSD might be the next big performance mod after some upcoming maintenance. I was thinking about WaveTrac, what do you have?
@@FritzRamos I went with the easy "plug n play" of the mperformance one since the pumpkin is already attached. Fluid wasn't cheap either. Totally worth it. Wish I would've done it prior to Coilovers and camber plates for sure. Right after LCA would've been best timing to get bang for buck.
Yeah I went LSD first before anything and it made a massive difference. Im running HR springs now and it actually feels pretty good especially when I went up to 235 width tires in the front. Installing Vorshlag plates next week. Ill see how that with HR springs is for a budget setup.
Is the KW kit you installed a V1, V2, or V3?
Or can you please share the part number. The link in the description looks different from the part you installed. On the SVBimmer link it shows the rear springs differently from what you installed.
Much appreciated
Hey Fritz I’m curious, are you riding on 18 inch wheels with this build?
If i tighten the excentric bolt of toe arm more than 100 nm, will i have to change the bolt the washer and the lock nut or just the lock nut ?! Thanks for.your reply 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
this stuff is getting confusing for me especially when thinking about getting wider wheel/ tyre setups with differnt sidewalls and it just becomes specific to everyones car. So hard to know if i can lower the car enough for track efficiency while not rubbing especially with the 2 series which doesnt have much room in the wheel well
Great video! I have a set of KW V3 on my F22 too, is it possible to adjust the rear rebound without taking the wheel and coilover off?
Yes I drilled a small hole into wheel well and trunk and bought kw adj extenders 80 mm can now adj inside trunk
Hi Fritz. Did you need front spacers? What front wheel dimensions you have? Thanks
Wonder what the difference between these as the KW V1 with EDC are, since these are quite a bit more expensive
Any idea on what the front and rear spring rates were for that kit??
Can you help me ? I have a bmw 228i with a m2 conversion rear bumper and there is one problem I cannot find a muffler with quad tips anywhere
You might have to just get a set of tips that opens up to a quad setup
I got KWv3 on my 4 serious, may i ask is there any way to adjust the rear rebound after installation without uninstall the coilovers?
hi, thank you for this great video. Is the ddc in sport or sport+, too harsh for daily?
On the other side, do the ddc too soft for track work?
Thank you!!
I'm in California where the roads aren't the greatest and even with the camber plates Sport+ is fine. As far as the track is concerned, I would try it as is and if you want more you can change out to a stiffer spring, some people who do that go with swift. Hope that helped
What happened with the End links? Is it because the Swaybar is too thick compared to H&R for ex. (F:28 R:20). Or are there special end links that work with KW Coilovers?
What if I wanted to mount my Swaybars in there least stiffer position? Any End links you would recommend?
It had more to do with the KW mounting position being off from OEM. If you call SPL Parts, ask for Turner and tell him you need the same setup as Fritz on the m235i. If you need to, reference this video
Thanks man!! I'll definatly will do.
Any regrets regarding the Turner (KW) sway bars? (or prefer others)
Do they scratch on any of the arms or are too thick by any means?
Love your Videos.. learned so much from you.
The best on YT!! gratefull for your work 🙏
@@FritzRamos Did they send you the Blue Turner Endlinks? Did that solve the Problem?
@@k.alothman No, they sent shorter ones and it worked
what can happen if the bolt of the rear toe arm is tightened with a torque more than 100 nm ?!
The one to the chassis is supposed to get 165Nm. If any bolt is overtorqued you run the Rick of snapping the bolt head or messing up the threads
@@FritzRamos i speak about the toe arm not the camber arm .how the bolt on the other side is tightened at 100nm + 90° and used at 100nm .thanks a lot
Great video and quality! Love your attention to detail and care. Approximately how long was the total installation time?
Without filming, I would say the rear is 20-30 mins and the front is 45-1hr (hardest part is breaking apart the strut from the knuckle).
Well done.
The strut spreader i’m using is about the same dimensions as the one you linked, but i’m having a pretty difficult time pulling the strut from the knuckle. Anyone have tips on separating the two?
Tryusing th spreder tool to get it started and if you need more space wedged in a screwdriver as well.
@@FritzRamos Thanks i’ll give it another go this weekend! Also, would having the other side of the car on the ground limit the brake assembly from lowering from the strut? Love the car btw, proper setup for an F22 👍🏽
Hello, nice M235i and nice job! Can you tell me your settings : distance of the center of the wheel to the arch in the front and in the rear? I have KW DDC on my M235i, with front M2TS +LCA, and the car was very low in the front, even at the higher setup of the coilover...so i have installed harder springs, and I am trying to find the good settings in order to have a balanced car!
I don’t want mine lowered from stock. Would I still see performance if I buy these and keep it stock height??
You might want to look into the Bilstein B16, I think the drop in height is less than the KW. You Will still see an improvement in handling as your spring rate and dampening will improve.
I read camber plates and EDC suspension make clunking noises, did you ever run into that?
Good question
Great vid thanks
Fritz. Another high quality video. Your videos have saved me much time. I spoke to KW suspensions technical support - “John” about aftermarket adjustable sway links for V2 install on a M240. He recommended not doing it and informed me it would void lifetime warranty. I was considering Turner adjustable end links about 25 mm shorter than stock to eliminate pre- load I will not be doing that. Also question on M2/3/4 cf brace install with Vorslog
What is spec on bolts ? I ordered off the list from video but all bolts were too large for 3 holes on camber plate appear to be 8 mm and maybe 1.5 pitch. Thanks again
Thanks. What does KW suggest you do, run without end links? It might work with a stock sway bar, but if you go aftermarket there's no way. Even if you did use adjustable end links, how would they know? 😉
For the CF brace, you have the exact same camber plate right?
What wheels do you have???
Hey has your passenger seatbelt ever gotten stuck like it won’t retract nor release? If so what do you do to make it work? I also have an m235i I’ve been looking for videos on that topic and I haven’t found nothing helpful
No I haven't experienced that. Is it a common issue?
@@FritzRamos it’s the first it has happened and it hasn’t retracted
Great job! I have a 2021 M240i. Does the M235i have the B58?
N55
M235i uses the N55
Thank you! You have the better engine, the m235i has the N55
Ok for x drive? 335i
what bracket is blue near the sway bar end link?
Hey, I worked today on the front. Pulled the OEM EDC out and fitted HR lowering springs. Putting the strut in now but it is very hard to put it back. Will continue tomorrow, any tips? Do I need to undo any arms to have more room? Any suggestions?
If you are using a spring compressor, then you can install the the top hat once the strut is in the wheel well with the compressed spring. You could also loosen the thrust arm and lower control arm if you prefer to install it as one unit. Just make sure to tighten the arms at ride height if you have the rubber bushings.
@@FritzRamos i have the lowering allready assembled on the strut. It’s a trick to get the tophat in and the foot of the strut in the knuckle. It’s seems I need to undo the arms(which I try to avoid). Any tips still? Cheers!
what bellows did you use? cant seem to find any rear bellows for our car anywhere and the ones i have right now are currently torn up pretty bad.
I used the ones from KW. What suspension are you running?
@@FritzRamos Currently running OEM rear shocks. but just got my bilstein EDC rear shocks in the mail and want to get new bellows.
Are you located in FL? I need to install a set in my M2🤣
Do your wheels rub?
They did initially, but the SPL arms had enough adjustability to fix it
can it be install without camber plate?
Yes - the camber plate is an additional part for additional capability. The KW kits install with just the OEM top as well.
Thanks for the awesome guide! I just installed the same kw v3 DDC kit and front camber plate on my m240i, but I'm getting some clunking at lower speeds when driving over small bumps. Already double checked everything was torqued correctly and nothing was loose. It definitely wasn't there before. I'm think the sway bar links need to be shorter to release some of the preload (all other suspension stuff is OEM). It seems like it's only coming from the front right. Any suggestions?
Which plates? do you still have that noise?
Are you in SJ/Bay Area?
Yup
did realize the top mount bolts where suppose to be that lightly torqued... oops... gad they didn't brake
I was surprised too. They should be okay since they're grade 8. How tight did you go?
@@FritzRamos probably close to 40-50 Nm...
Gold Standard --> Bilstein
I'd be lost if I tried to install this, I can't even get my car off the ground.