Nice work mate will come up good with a wet sand and buff 👍 For next time if you want minimal peal with the hs clear I usually boil the kettle poor into a bucket then sit the harder and clear in there for 20 min gets it nice and thin. Also put the pressure up to 3 bar and hold the gun 6-7cm off the panels will get you a nice flat finish
Thanks mate, yeah I did think about the hot water trick but I had the clear and hardener sitting in the sun for two hours so it was definitely warm. I did lower the pressure from 3 to 2 bar based on the tech specs and I did add 10% reducer to try and thin it a little more. I held it pretty close last two coats but it still peeled. Must be the pressure and heat still I reckon. Thanks
I did try roberlo with thinners, it improved it but not glass. I just got more chance of runs with a slightly less size peel. The only thing that changed it is when I sprayed when the booth temperature was around 30 degrees on a hot day. It needed the heat to melt into a smooth finish or something.
Nice job, progressing well by the looks of it. Pretty sure everyone who has ever sprayed a car gets orange peel on the clear coat. So long as you apply several coats then it will be thick enough to wet sand to get the glass-like finish.
Another thing is with high solid clears I've used they are thick, so open the fan, if you're using a hvlp gun up the pressure and over reduce a bit. The good thing with high solid clears they dry really hard so good protection. If your gonna use a DA polisher the finer u go sanding the better. After 2000 go 3000 then 5000 trizact or even 8000 and she'll come up a treat without polishing for days. Flow coating is also an option but more work and sounds like u want to kick it in the guts and get her done.. She will be fine good job for your first go.
Thanks, i think i will try upping the presser and over reducing with the clear for the next panel, i think it will definitely help with the peel. I do have some 3000 and 5000 trizact pads, bloody exy but very good. So i will 800 the peel off then 1500 3000 and 5000. 800 only beciuse the peel is quite heavy and takes forever with 1500. cheers
@@BarnesysBuilds 1500 won't cut and flatten the peel out like 800 will so it will come out a flatter finish and like u say quicker. Just hand sand with a colour sanding block for that stage for more control because the DA will be too aggressive. DA the other grades with the interface pad. Watch the edges mask off if u have too. Good luck.
pretty good for someone who doesn't paint for a job every day. if you have orange peel it probably needs more thinner or slower application. I use HS clear and 30% thinner for a good off the gun finish. If you get runs it could be that its too thick or you're just overlapping or not moving at a consistent speed or not enough flashoff time. I do paint MS and HS with no thinner but its what I do every day so can feel what's good and what's not on the fly. Just some tips there. Try 30% thinner on a test panel and see how it goes.
Thanks mate yeah I did try the 20%-30% thinner and it did reduce the orange peel but runs weren't worth it. The best result was the bonnet which I painted recently. The difference obviously being that it's flat and easy to lay on thick but I think the main reason was the heat. It was a nice hot 30 degree day and that made the difference I reckon, that clear needs a warm booth from my experience with it. Thanks 👍
Hey mate . What I like to do is seam seal after primer has been sanded before painting the basecoat . Also use 18mm tape and mask along the edge where you want to seal . Once sealed unmask it , then your left with a straight neat sealer line all around your doors . By the way when your free give me a call regarding what we spoke about . Cheers legend.
Cheers mate, yeah I was going to do that but thought I would prime again just to be safe. Yes I will give you a call this week to work out a time. Sounds great, cheers
When you paint the bonnet laying flat you wont have as much peel. Pump it on more but be carefull around the body lines and allow a good flash off between coats to prevent solvent popping. Are you using a H.S air cap.
I'm looking forward to the bonnet actually, should be a breeze compared to the vertical panels. Yeah I will pack it on but give it a good 10-12 between coats, I'm using a Walcom Slim Kombat HTE 1.3 tip
Good work Barnsey ! Without being there and witnessing all aspects of ya process - I think there’s a clue in that if your getting gloss finish when spraying as close as an inch off the panel ( not ideal as the risk of runs is much higher ) maybe try a coupla test panels and increase the fluid feed at the gun and see where your gun performs best. Try not to stray too far from what the tech data sheet says but play with the reducer rate also( maybe try 15% to make it wetter and travel a smidge quicker across the panel). spend some on this technique and ya just might surprise ya self ! Just remember - All show car ducos that are super flat have had hours and hours spent sanding thru the finer grades and buffing to mirror effect and all standard car paint has fine orange peel when you look at it closely
I reckon your right, it's maybe a bit more reducer and increase the flow. I did reduce 10% but didn't really do a lot so at 2 bar I reckon and full fan the only thing left has to be the flow setting. I will give it another go before I try the bonnet and tailgate. Cheers
Looking fantastic Barnesy, you have done an awesome job. Orange peel just plain sucks, adds more work for you. Cant wait to see it being assembled, will really inspire many of us!!👍👌
Thanks mate, yeah I got so close but I have to expect some issues with such little time in the saddle spraying HS clear. Really looking forward to assembly
Orange Peel has many causes. Room temp, % of thinners, gun pressure and the way you apply it. Sanding , then buffing is real time consuming. Sometimes it's quicker to give it a quick sand with 400, then give it a dust coat( with clear) wait 20 mins, then a wet coat.
Yeah thats why I am going to just sand and buff as I could sand and recoat only to orange peel it again. Unless I went a different MS clear but I already paid for HS so want to see it through
@@BarnesysBuilds HS is better, it requires less coats. Watch Gunman or Paint Society. Lots of tips. Good luck. My HQ is almost finished, can't wait to drive it.
Lookin good mate, yeah HS clear can be a bit difficult when your not use to using it, orange peel is just a fact of life mate, your never going to completely eliminate it. An inch from the panel sounds a bit extreme. I use about 2 bar, 28 psi (it gives you a finer atomisation) with clear depending on the temperature. Try putting the tin in a bucket of hot water before you mix it and it tends to flow a bit better in the colder months. Block that peel back wet start with 1500 with a light pressure so you don't leave any deep scratches and go up to 3000 or 3500 and buff it with compound also use a waffle pad with swirl remover after. Seal it with a good quality ceramic polish and she'll shine bro. It's time consuming but worth it after all the good work you've put in. Great job mate you should be a happy man 👍🇭🇲💯%Holden
Thanks mate, yeah I ran 2 bar, and 10% reducer but still came out thick. Maybe flow was incorrect. I was going to get a hand with the sanding, buffing etc but I was going to follow the same directions you just indicated so cheers
Getting there mate . Hot tip for next time Normally if you take the skins off you put the sealer in before you fold the skin over then wipe it off Then on modern cars use tape to replicate the straight lines ect. But for you car you probably would find 3m drip check to work better than sika less messy too. But sika would be fine still but you only need 1/10 the amount you have on there just a thin line , then wet a rag with wax m grease remover and wipe it smooth , you’ll get a perfect finish. No excess ect , but like you say it’s just the insides of the doors , who really cares . Second tip paint the whole car assembled it very easy to get mismatch but your color is pretty forgiving. Hope it all goes well bud
Thnaks mate, good solid feedback, yes definitely was a risk taking doors off, i was orginally going to paint all assembled but changed mind due to the booth not being setup to handle such a large spray job at once. Unfortunately there maybe some tone variation but after looking at the panels as you said you would be hard pressed to pick it due to the way the pearl works in that dark colour.
I'm no paint expert but you'd have to key it anyway to put another coat on so just wet sand it flat, that's why we put extra clear on. 2022 Kia at work with bad Orange peel so it can't be that simple to avoid. Inspirational mate as always.
Did you notice any issues with metallic variation when you sprayed the panels off car mate? Timewise i will be looking to get body sprayed 1st as you have done .. Thanks legend
I haven't noticed any colour variation actually but i haven't had it sitting in the sun all panels on yet. I think it will be fine if your using the same batch of paint, i ran out so i had two batches which is a no no but seems i have got away with it. The metallic pearl tends to tone shift anyway so it hides any issues. I think the most important thing is to make sure you apply your final dust coat on your doors and guards identically to the body shell and you will stand the metallics up in the same way and get the same reflections and tone. Make sure all the panels are the same height and orientation as they will be in the ute as you spray them as well. That way your technique will be similar to the shell. cheers
Loving it coming together, looking awesome. The Gunman has a few videos on cutting runs out that might help. One involves applying body filler then sanding back so it doesn't cut into the paint around it but brave attempting it without practice I think. Looking forward to seeing it all back together
The way i've seen most people mount the full length bar is to just put a bolt through the bumper and into the bumperette bracket (the one that sits directly under the tailgate hinges if its installed) and then hide it back under the rubber strip.
I used hs clear aswell but i reduced mine with 10% reducer came out like a mirror but did get little bits of hard clear come out of the gun just have to cut it back now
@@BarnesysBuilds the only car videos my wife has any interest in hearing about are the ones that feature a dog. Thanks for introducing me to drop spindles, which I now have, great vids.
A few questions that might help mate, what pressure are you spraying at the gun? What hardner are you using (extra slow, slow, medium or fast), what temp is it where you are at? As others have suggested, you will need to rub back with P800 and then flowcoat. I say 800 as i dare say the clear will be different thickness across the panels and you don't want to burn through to basecoat.
Spraying 2 bar as per tech data, full fan, fluid feed 2.5 turns from full open, standard hardener, put the clear in the sun for 2 hours beforehand. Ambient temp would've been 20 degrees Celcius. I am hesitant to rub back and flow coat as I reckon the peel could happen again. So just going to sand and buff. Cheers
Unfortunately waiting on the gearbox which is taking forever with the waiting list so i can't reassemble until it's here so i can bolt it up to the engine and drop it in. So been woriking on the panels, couple of dramas along the way, will post soon.
Reduce material nozzle and move slower. Hs does flow more after its applied. I prefer medium solid..Just lightly knock it back with 800 wet, let dry, denib shit with small block, then a good 1500 soft block or sponge pad on buzzer and 2000 pads,then polish.
I didn't notice it had settled in a bit more the next day, and had ran as well. I plan on a full sand with 1500, 2000, 3000 but have someone coming to show me how it's done before I rip in and potentially stuff it.
Ps , finish hanging all the panels on the car , then as much as I commend you for having a go at learning a very different trade (s) Take it to a panel shop get them to run it back with 400 and flo coat the lot for you in a booth , You have still done 95% percent of the work and can be proud of it , but if they just add that last coat for you your really gonna love how good it will look bud . Will be like a mirror with no bugs ect . Shouldn’t cost anymore than $1500
Yes i know the flow coat would be great but i am seeing it through with the sand and buff just so i can say i have done the whole job myself. If it doesn't come out the way i like once its all the panels are on again i might think about that but fingers crossed its fine.
G'day legend, After getting your ute all painted and looking awesome, would you recommend using lesonal for base /clear? Keep up the good work and can't wait For all the assembly videos
Thanks mate, I love lesonal base coat, primers etc I haven't tried their base coat as I used the roberlo 150HS clear which is a good clear but I just really struggled to apply it without orange peel. I think it needs to be in a hot booth to really glass up, not a garage clear.
Hey Aaron, just double check those rear bumper irons as they may not be correct. Im no expert but they dont look 100%. They seem different to my irons from my Hz wagon thats all.
Turn the paint flow till it's as low as you can get it and thin it out a bit more say 10percent and it should flow better and let it flash off between coats that's my 2 bobs worth there's probably a hundred different ideas great job
@@BarnesysBuilds it all practice and more practice I've always been to scared to paint two pack at home and not in a booth but they way you do it is how I paint acrylic so I'll have to give it a go in the plastic spray booth
Dont blame you for wanting to move on. My pet hate is not have the inside of the roof painted, all that work and it would have taken 20 minutes extra. Have a look at this article Auto Painting 101: A Look at the Dreaded Orange Peel Effect
Hey mate, i think i saw a message come through on facebook but couldn't find it after i wen to respond. I am trying to find some time to find out what model it is from, i would assume WB statesman as most of the parts came from one in think.
Hey Barnsey, can you give me Tony Knights Mobile number,, his landline is disconnected.. i can't contact him.. glad you got there in the end with your motor.. thaks..
Hi You maybe interested or not in this sale of holden parts, I saw them on facebook marketplace, dont know any prices Holden parts sale A$1,234 Listed 2 days ago in Victor Harbor, SA
Hi Barnesy, I follow the -gunman and he really explains stuff throughout his vids and is now in Vic, He's in the middle of a resto of his own car, have a look and he will probably say the same as Steve308. Still loving the content,
Yes I've seen his vids and followed some of his techniques with clear. I didn't hear with water but I heated in the sun, I think the pressure needed to go up more as well as distance of gun to panel needed to be closer. Cheers
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Nice work mate will come up good with a wet sand and buff 👍
For next time if you want minimal peal with the hs clear I usually boil the kettle poor into a bucket then sit the harder and clear in there for 20 min gets it nice and thin. Also put the pressure up to 3 bar and hold the gun 6-7cm off the panels will get you a nice flat finish
Thanks mate, yeah I did think about the hot water trick but I had the clear and hardener sitting in the sun for two hours so it was definitely warm. I did lower the pressure from 3 to 2 bar based on the tech specs and I did add 10% reducer to try and thin it a little more. I held it pretty close last two coats but it still peeled. Must be the pressure and heat still I reckon. Thanks
Good stuff mate awesome clear that roberlo for a nice flow coat on the clear thin it 20%-25% bloody glass finish
I did try roberlo with thinners, it improved it but not glass. I just got more chance of runs with a slightly less size peel. The only thing that changed it is when I sprayed when the booth temperature was around 30 degrees on a hot day. It needed the heat to melt into a smooth finish or something.
Nice job, progressing well by the looks of it. Pretty sure everyone who has ever sprayed a car gets orange peel on the clear coat. So long as you apply several coats then it will be thick enough to wet sand to get the glass-like finish.
Yeah definitely a lot work work but got enough clear on there so should be fine
Another thing is with high solid clears I've used they are thick, so open the fan, if you're using a hvlp gun up the pressure and over reduce a bit. The good thing with high solid clears they dry really hard so good protection. If your gonna use a DA polisher the finer u go sanding the better. After 2000 go 3000 then 5000 trizact or even 8000 and she'll come up a treat without polishing for days. Flow coating is also an option but more work and sounds like u want to kick it in the guts and get her done.. She will be fine good job for your first go.
Thanks, i think i will try upping the presser and over reducing with the clear for the next panel, i think it will definitely help with the peel. I do have some 3000 and 5000 trizact pads, bloody exy but very good. So i will 800 the peel off then 1500 3000 and 5000. 800 only beciuse the peel is quite heavy and takes forever with 1500. cheers
@@BarnesysBuilds 1500 won't cut and flatten the peel out like 800 will so it will come out a flatter finish and like u say quicker. Just hand sand with a colour sanding block for that stage for more control because the DA will be too aggressive. DA the other grades with the interface pad. Watch the edges mask off if u have too. Good luck.
pretty good for someone who doesn't paint for a job every day. if you have orange peel it probably needs more thinner or slower application. I use HS clear and 30% thinner for a good off the gun finish. If you get runs it could be that its too thick or you're just overlapping or not moving at a consistent speed or not enough flashoff time. I do paint MS and HS with no thinner but its what I do every day so can feel what's good and what's not on the fly. Just some tips there. Try 30% thinner on a test panel and see how it goes.
Thanks mate yeah I did try the 20%-30% thinner and it did reduce the orange peel but runs weren't worth it. The best result was the bonnet which I painted recently. The difference obviously being that it's flat and easy to lay on thick but I think the main reason was the heat. It was a nice hot 30 degree day and that made the difference I reckon, that clear needs a warm booth from my experience with it. Thanks 👍
@@BarnesysBuilds yeah the heat wouldn’t have helped as you would need to be faster laying it on in the heat
Hey mate . What I like to do is seam seal after primer has been sanded before painting the basecoat . Also use 18mm tape and mask along the edge where you want to seal . Once sealed unmask it , then your left with a straight neat sealer line all around your doors . By the way when your free give me a call regarding what we spoke about . Cheers legend.
Cheers mate, yeah I was going to do that but thought I would prime again just to be safe. Yes I will give you a call this week to work out a time. Sounds great, cheers
When you paint the bonnet laying flat you wont have as much peel. Pump it on more but be carefull around the body lines and allow a good flash off between coats to prevent solvent popping. Are you using a H.S air cap.
I'm looking forward to the bonnet actually, should be a breeze compared to the vertical panels. Yeah I will pack it on but give it a good 10-12 between coats, I'm using a Walcom Slim Kombat HTE 1.3 tip
Good work Barnsey ! Without being there and witnessing all aspects of ya process - I think there’s a clue in that if your getting gloss finish when spraying as close as an inch off the panel ( not ideal as the risk of runs is much higher ) maybe try a coupla test panels and increase the fluid feed at the gun and see where your gun performs best. Try not to stray too far from what the tech data sheet says but play with the reducer rate also( maybe try 15% to make it wetter and travel a smidge quicker across the panel). spend some on this technique and ya just might surprise ya self ! Just remember - All show car ducos that are super flat have had hours and hours spent sanding thru the finer grades and buffing to mirror effect and all standard car paint has fine orange peel when you look at it closely
I reckon your right, it's maybe a bit more reducer and increase the flow. I did reduce 10% but didn't really do a lot so at 2 bar I reckon and full fan the only thing left has to be the flow setting. I will give it another go before I try the bonnet and tailgate. Cheers
Looking fantastic Barnesy, you have done an awesome job. Orange peel just plain sucks, adds more work for you. Cant wait to see it being assembled, will really inspire many of us!!👍👌
Thanks mate, yeah I got so close but I have to expect some issues with such little time in the saddle spraying HS clear. Really looking forward to assembly
Nice to see you back mate. The ute is looking great. Can't wait to see the progress from here.
Thanks mate👍
Orange Peel has many causes. Room temp, % of thinners, gun pressure and the way you apply it. Sanding , then buffing is real time consuming. Sometimes it's quicker to give it a quick sand with 400, then give it a dust coat( with clear) wait 20 mins, then a wet coat.
Yeah thats why I am going to just sand and buff as I could sand and recoat only to orange peel it again. Unless I went a different MS clear but I already paid for HS so want to see it through
@@BarnesysBuilds HS is better, it requires less coats. Watch Gunman or Paint Society. Lots of tips. Good luck. My HQ is almost finished, can't wait to drive it.
Lookin good mate, yeah HS clear can be a bit difficult when your not use to using it, orange peel is just a fact of life mate, your never going to completely eliminate it. An inch from the panel sounds a bit extreme. I use about 2 bar, 28 psi (it gives you a finer atomisation) with clear depending on the temperature. Try putting the tin in a bucket of hot water before you mix it and it tends to flow a bit better in the colder months. Block that peel back wet start with 1500 with a light pressure so you don't leave any deep scratches and go up to 3000 or 3500 and buff it with compound also use a waffle pad with swirl remover after. Seal it with a good quality ceramic polish and she'll shine bro. It's time consuming but worth it after all the good work you've put in. Great job mate you should be a happy man 👍🇭🇲💯%Holden
Thanks mate, yeah I ran 2 bar, and 10% reducer but still came out thick. Maybe flow was incorrect. I was going to get a hand with the sanding, buffing etc but I was going to follow the same directions you just indicated so cheers
Getting there mate .
Hot tip for next time
Normally if you take the skins off you put the sealer in before you fold the skin over then wipe it off
Then on modern cars use tape to replicate the straight lines ect.
But for you car you probably would find 3m drip check to work better than sika less messy too.
But sika would be fine still but you only need 1/10 the amount you have on there just a thin line , then wet a rag with wax m grease remover and wipe it smooth , you’ll get a perfect finish. No excess ect , but like you say it’s just the insides of the doors , who really cares .
Second tip paint the whole car assembled it very easy to get mismatch but your color is pretty forgiving. Hope it all goes well bud
Thnaks mate, good solid feedback, yes definitely was a risk taking doors off, i was orginally going to paint all assembled but changed mind due to the booth not being setup to handle such a large spray job at once. Unfortunately there maybe some tone variation but after looking at the panels as you said you would be hard pressed to pick it due to the way the pearl works in that dark colour.
I'm no paint expert but you'd have to key it anyway to put another coat on so just wet sand it flat, that's why we put extra clear on. 2022 Kia at work with bad Orange peel so it can't be that simple to avoid. Inspirational mate as always.
Yeah I reckon I will just sand and buff, there's enough on there to have a good sand and should come back pretty clean. Cheers
Did you notice any issues with metallic variation when you sprayed the panels off car mate? Timewise i will be looking to get body sprayed 1st as you have done .. Thanks legend
I haven't noticed any colour variation actually but i haven't had it sitting in the sun all panels on yet. I think it will be fine if your using the same batch of paint, i ran out so i had two batches which is a no no but seems i have got away with it. The metallic pearl tends to tone shift anyway so it hides any issues. I think the most important thing is to make sure you apply your final dust coat on your doors and guards identically to the body shell and you will stand the metallics up in the same way and get the same reflections and tone. Make sure all the panels are the same height and orientation as they will be in the ute as you spray them as well. That way your technique will be similar to the shell. cheers
Loving it coming together, looking awesome. The Gunman has a few videos on cutting runs out that might help. One involves applying body filler then sanding back so it doesn't cut into the paint around it but brave attempting it without practice I think. Looking forward to seeing it all back together
I did see those vids on the body filler sanding and I may try that method actually. Thanks 👍
The way i've seen most people mount the full length bar is to just put a bolt through the bumper and into the bumperette bracket (the one that sits directly under the tailgate hinges if its installed) and then hide it back under the rubber strip.
Probably the best method, I did see that method so will have a play around and see what sits the best. Cheers
Looking great Barnsy coming together nicely keep em coming. 👌
Thanks mate 👍
when you sand the orange peel don't sand the sharp bodylines to hard & rub trough the clear its coming along nice !!!
Will do, going to tape the lines, cheers
I used hs clear aswell but i reduced mine with 10% reducer came out like a mirror but did get little bits of hard clear come out of the gun just have to cut it back now
I did reduce with 10% as well but unfortunately didn't reduce the peel amount. I would say it's flow rate.
What does the dog do during painting? I feel like he wants to be in there snuffling around the wet paint.
He just wants to go round up rabbits or cattle, but if he can't he waits patiently not far away, he would paint if he could. Legend.
@@BarnesysBuilds the only car videos my wife has any interest in hearing about are the ones that feature a dog. Thanks for introducing me to drop spindles, which I now have, great vids.
A few questions that might help mate, what pressure are you spraying at the gun? What hardner are you using (extra slow, slow, medium or fast), what temp is it where you are at? As others have suggested, you will need to rub back with P800 and then flowcoat. I say 800 as i dare say the clear will be different thickness across the panels and you don't want to burn through to basecoat.
Spraying 2 bar as per tech data, full fan, fluid feed 2.5 turns from full open, standard hardener, put the clear in the sun for 2 hours beforehand. Ambient temp would've been 20 degrees Celcius. I am hesitant to rub back and flow coat as I reckon the peel could happen again. So just going to sand and buff. Cheers
Whats the latest with your ute build, keen to see more.
Unfortunately waiting on the gearbox which is taking forever with the waiting list so i can't reassemble until it's here so i can bolt it up to the engine and drop it in. So been woriking on the panels, couple of dramas along the way, will post soon.
Reduce material nozzle and move slower. Hs does flow more after its applied. I prefer medium solid..Just lightly knock it back with 800 wet, let dry, denib shit with small block, then a good 1500 soft block or sponge pad on buzzer and 2000 pads,then polish.
I didn't notice it had settled in a bit more the next day, and had ran as well. I plan on a full sand with 1500, 2000, 3000 but have someone coming to show me how it's done before I rip in and potentially stuff it.
You’ll be right Barnsy, hit it with the orbital sander wet with 2000 and give it all a good buff
Thanks mate, yeah getting some help to start it off then once I get the idea I will finish it myself.
Ps , finish hanging all the panels on the car , then as much as I commend you for having a go at learning a very different trade (s)
Take it to a panel shop get them to run it back with 400 and flo coat the lot for you in a booth ,
You have still done 95% percent of the work and can be proud of it , but if they just add that last coat for you your really gonna love how good it will look bud . Will be like a mirror with no bugs ect . Shouldn’t cost anymore than $1500
Yes i know the flow coat would be great but i am seeing it through with the sand and buff just so i can say i have done the whole job myself. If it doesn't come out the way i like once its all the panels are on again i might think about that but fingers crossed its fine.
Gday, I’m new to your channel and really enjoying the build mate, I like channels that are honest and no bullshit, cheers
Cheers mate, I try to document the realities good and bad of the whole restoration journey. 👍
G'day legend,
After getting your ute all painted and looking awesome, would you recommend using lesonal for base /clear? Keep up the good work and can't wait For all the assembly videos
Thanks mate, I love lesonal base coat, primers etc I haven't tried their base coat as I used the roberlo 150HS clear which is a good clear but I just really struggled to apply it without orange peel. I think it needs to be in a hot booth to really glass up, not a garage clear.
Hey Aaron, just double check those rear bumper irons as they may not be correct. Im no expert but they dont look 100%. They seem different to my irons from my Hz wagon thats all.
They definitely fit the bumper, they just don't line up with the ute tailgate hinges so will need a custom bracket made to join the two together
Good job mate, keep at it 👍🏻
Thanks mate
Put an SW Platt bull bar on it Barnesy, they make great looking ones for the WB
Used to have a hopper knocker on my old Kingswood ute but this build is not going down that road, will keep this one standard, for now..
Looks good mate
Turn the paint flow till it's as low as you can get it and thin it out a bit more say 10percent and it should flow better and let it flash off between coats that's my 2 bobs worth there's probably a hundred different ideas great job
Thanks, yes I did think it 10 percent but it was still laying on really thick. I think it was perhaps the flow was not dialled.
@@BarnesysBuilds it all practice and more practice I've always been to scared to paint two pack at home and not in a booth but they way you do it is how I paint acrylic so I'll have to give it a go in the plastic spray booth
@@isaidthat4505 yeah I thought I may as well go 2pak if I was going to all the effort of the booth. Cheers
Any update comin’ Barnsey ?
Soon, just been held up by gearbox for months now.
@@BarnesysBuilds Deadly, thanks for the update, awesome build. Hope to hear all about that Gearbox In the next video.
@@jut9296 Yeah i got a few things to show and update on so not far away. cheers
Dont blame you for wanting to move on. My pet hate is not have the inside of the roof painted, all that work and it would have taken 20 minutes extra.
Have a look at this article Auto Painting 101: A Look at the Dreaded Orange Peel Effect
Ok will do, cheers 👍
Hey mate I’ll be interested in the ac unit
Ok cool, will have to find all the bits. Not even sure if it's factory or from a statesman
@@BarnesysBuilds cool thanks mate. na it’s not factory it’s an aftermarket one
Hey mate, i think i saw a message come through on facebook but couldn't find it after i wen to respond. I am trying to find some time to find out what model it is from, i would assume WB statesman as most of the parts came from one in think.
@@BarnesysBuilds hey mate I just send you another message on Facebook
Need to thin paint more mate
Wat air pressure u on ?
Orange peel sucks
I did put 10% reducer in it, I was told to not use any with HS but I thought I would try anywayi was at 2 bar pressure as per the tech data sheet.
Hey Barnsey, can you give me Tony Knights Mobile number,, his landline is disconnected.. i can't contact him.. glad you got there in the end with your motor.. thaks..
Hey mate, PM me if you would like his mobile. On Instagram. Cheers
Just get your bumpers record mate ,there pretty ordinary.
Hi You maybe interested or not in this sale of holden parts, I saw them on facebook marketplace, dont know any prices Holden parts sale A$1,234 Listed 2 days ago in Victor Harbor, SA
Couldn't see any links sorry, TH-cam won't allow links from Facebook I don't think
Hi Barnesy, I follow the -gunman and he really explains stuff throughout his vids and is now in Vic, He's in the middle of a resto of his own car, have a look and he will probably say the same as Steve308. Still loving the content,
Yes I've seen his vids and followed some of his techniques with clear. I didn't hear with water but I heated in the sun, I think the pressure needed to go up more as well as distance of gun to panel needed to be closer. Cheers