I have rarely used a chainsaw. I watched this video because it seemed interesting. This person was very engaging, knowledgeable, and interesting to watch. In the end, she placed the responsibility for not checking "the small things first" directly on her shoulders. I live in South America where it is shameful for a person to admit they did something other than perfection. I love people who are strong enough emotionally to understand that we can't all be perfect all the time. Great job, and if I had a chainsaw that needed servicing, I would hope to find someone like you to work on it.
I am a 20+ year STIHL Master Whench Service Tech in the Northeast U.S. The MS250 is an amazing chainsaw, the power to weight ratio is amazing. HOWEVER they have more pull resistance than any other saw in the line up. It will start in the same amount of pulls as any BUT you have to pull it like you are mad at it. I had a meeting with all of our counter guys and made sure that they pass that info onto the unsuspecting customer who is purchasing the saw. We have had hundreds of these come back for hard starting, meanwhile there is literally nothing wrong with them per se other than the customers not pulling hard enough. I own a MS250 and I love it. It’s my go to, my favorite.
She said that. She knows the MS250 has a high compression engine, therefore hard to start. She even said she's careful who she sells them to as in what they are doing with the saw and makes sure they know it does pull hard and they need to take that into consideration. She's saying that it is unusually hard to start, even for an MS250. Should watch and listen to the whole video.
MS250 owner here. Excellent information. Thank you! Bad arms and back here... and I'm on my second MS250. It's a good saw. I'd only add that... the saw CAN be a real stinker to start... IF care is not taken under full choke. Suggestions: - Find a good video on the proper starting procedure. Doing so has delayed my meeting Jesus and reduced my profanity tirades by a factor of at least 4. That's probably what happened to my first MS250 (it died of shame as I verbally assaulted it over the years). Don't be me. Learn (early) how to properly start your MS250. So, here's what I learned... - I've found that it's important to listen and be super-aware on the initial full-choke pulls. If you don't hear/acknowledge the priming (final) pull in full choke, and continue pulling/fail to advance to half choke, it takes ONLY ONE superfluous full-choke pull to vapor lock (or flood... not sure) your engine. When this happens, you can cuss and pull till your arm comes off... and the saw WILL NOT start (not anytime soon anyways). - To help avoid this, I learned to slide half of my hearing PPE up so I can LISTEN while I was pulling in full choke. I've also found that going gloveless (just on start up) helps the senses detect the very subtle priming/final pull. Listening is the main thing. - If you lock/flood your engine in full choke, the best solution I've found is to remove the cover, air filter, winter screen, plug wire and either loosen or remove the plug, pull several times to clear, reinstall parts... and pay better attention when you are on your full-choke initial pulls. - Bonus: treat your plug wire (on the saw) with kid gloves. Parts quality (I believe) has gone down hill as of late. Early on, my second MS250 became difficult to start, the gremlin going undiagnosed for an entire season (complete profanity relapse ensued... I was down to learning curse words in other languages by the end of winter... that poor saw). The next spring, the long-fatigued plug wire gave up the ghost and came off in my hand. Replacing it confirmed the elusive problem... frayed or fractured plug wire that chose which days it was going to close the circuit and allow starting. Moral... plug wires (on saws) are not designed for repetitive un/reinstalling. Possibly my fault, but likely a crappy plug wire. - Lay in a supply of spare parts for a rainy day(s) and/or chintzy part failures brought on by the communist invasion and resulting decline of society, infrastructure and build quality. Hope this helps. Good luck and be safe.
One thing that I have found as a Stihl Technician, is that you need to make sure the cylinder has some fuel mixture in it. Just a small squirt will not flood it but lubricate it and prime it to start easier. Always hold the interlock and the throttle wide open and set to full choke if you are not prep-priming the cylinder under normal circumstances. you will notice that even though the choke is fully closed, the throttle is open somewhat. This reduces pulling tension needed to turn the engine over faster and with less difficulty. 1 to 3 pulls is all you need normally with full choke. If the saw "pops" then immediately, without touching the throttle, move the choke lever to half choke. If you have per-primed with a small shot of fuel into the cylinder for lubrication this is where the choke needs to be in this sequence. Now the throttle is still open but not fully choked. This makes it even easier to pull with both butterflies open. The saw will usually start very quickly with just a few more pulls. The engine RPM will race so be quick to pull the throttle to fully release the choke and lower the RPM as needed. As we work on these saws we learn the interlocks both at the throttle and in the linkages to help us start these powerful tools.
Could also be that the saw has carbon deposits from too much oil to fuel ratio. The throttle being at fast idle indent on the choke has little to do this any force increase, these are piston port two strokes and there is little to zip of any engine braking at cranking speed, if anything, wetting the cylinder with fresh fuel is going to increase the compression ratio, making it harder to start. Why Stihl released this saw without a partial decompressor valve is a mystery.
I spray starting fluid onto the air filter for about one second, quickly put the cover back on, hope I didn't flood it with ether, pull a couple times with no choke, which rarely works, then try once with full choke, try again with half choke and maybe full throttle, if it isn't trying to break my arm by now, I usually get it going. Surprised that all those ether shots hasn't ruined my compression..nope, MS290 20 years old, no compression release, still seems like full compression after maybe 1000 starts. It's a devil!
Not on you! I worked in the service field for motorcycles, lawn and garden equipment, generators, etc. What I learned and it saved me a lot of time was while I was writing up the ticket and talking to the customer was, "what did you do to try and fix it?" 9 out of 10 that was where the problem was. Great vid. Excellent presentation. Very methodical. Just remember a lot of times is if we're not making errors, we're not learning. Thank you and keep up the great work.
I'm 82 years old and had to give my 14 year old MS250 to my 32 year old grandson. The saw was hard to pull from day one but I lived with it till last year. No problem starting...just hard to pull (no decompression valve) which is a common complaint with the MS 250 when looking around the net. Replaced it with a MS250 C-BC Z/18" bar easy start system. Now its a pleasure to use.
My grate uncle owned a Johnson sp 49 chainsaw year 1984 he was age 73 and smoking cigarettes I was age 15 I use too have too station the chainsaw for him too work it strong compression
I have a 42-year-old, Stihl 028 Super that I first used for commercial timber thinning, running it very hard for 10 hours a day, seven days a week, for three years. It is now relegated to brush clearing around my property and other light duty. It has never had a rebuild, but occasionally becomes hard starting. A simple, quick carburetor clean and overhaul has always solved the problem and makes it run like new. New to your channel and this was very informative, especially pressure testing the fuel system, which I didn't know about.
@@marriedwithsmallengines Agreed, I like the straightforward, no-nonsense approach. Now if you'll come here and fix my old McCullough (old age, needs the primer kit)...
I have had a husky 142 for 15 years. Used lightly for pruning and firewood. It became hard to start and wouldn't run. I was really puzzled, dismantled the carb. All looked good, but no dice. Finally I tried adjusting the H jet, and yeah it now works like new! So happy that I figured it out, and fixed my baby. A chainsaw is like a dog! Cheers from New Zealand😊
I can’t resist… you said “don’t put your tool in the wrong hole” and I just, well, that’s a massive understatement. You finished your video with a smile and acknowledged that you’ll do this job again. I am a counter guy on occasion for a friend’s shop. I love helping on the counter. Started as the parts man and then migrated to the counter. You do a thorough job and that’s commendable. I’ll tuck this info on the MS 250 into my ever diminishing mind for future reference, the info is priceless and you are too! Thanks for a great video and you have a new subscriber! Have a blessed day!
When you had taken the saw out without the bar and chain, you can hear the drag on the throttle response. I always hit the carb first when I see ready mix fuel. As for the special tool for the piston, use a pull rope this way your not messing around with a flashlight. You are spot on talking about the compression on that saw. It will rip your arm off if you don't find the sweet spot.
Excellent repair vid! I love that you guys keep things simple and clear without a lot of annoying music and frivolity. Thank you Erica for taking us along on this learning experience. I love working on chainsaws and have been doing it for quite a few years and I learned something today watching you troubleshoot this 250. Another job well done. Good work lady❤❤
My MS250 is a great little saw. It’s the first saw I grab when I need to do a quick cutting job. Thank you for showing us through the trouble shooting process. I’ll remember it when its needed🙂
Great video, thank you . I have a MS 250 and it runs great with no complaints. I pull it over on choke slowly the 1st time then the 2nd pull with the choke still on I do it full speed and it fires up with out riping the recoil rope out of my hand.
I worked on a Stihl 046 and it also was a hard starter. I am 73 yrs old and it would try to pull my arm off. I rebuilt it a couple of times, replaced the crankshaft, piston and cylinder. It is one of those saws that wants to pull your arm off. So I made an electric saw started . I took a 1/2 hp electric motor that can run both forward and reverse. I machined an adapter that matches the flywheel pull starter. (you have to remove the pull starter housing.) I engage the motor/adapter to the chainsaw and I have the electric motor plugged in. I have a foot switch that has a momentary contact switch installed. You engage the motor and saw, step on the momentary foot switch and the electric motor starts the chainsaw with very little effort. It sure beats letting the chainsaw beat me to death. When the chain saw starts it automatically disengages the chainsaw. I use this tool on saws that are hard to start. It lets me figure out problems without wearing me out.
I have a ms250 .Its a love /hate relationship.I love it when it starts. You can't rely on this chainsaw at all.I had it back to the dealer many times. You can pull on it and it may start, sit it down , 5 minutes later pick it up and it won't start. Sometimes it won't start at all sometimes it will start every pull. Everything on this saw has been gone over. Even the dealer told me they have issues with the cheaper saws. Now I grab the old stihl 260 and the Dolmar.The MS 250 is name correctly MS Might start
I also have a Stihl battery saw and it always starts very easily, has no fuel issues, etc. My go to saw for firewood. My sawing technique got better as this saw does not like to be forced at all. It will do the job on its own just fine. I can carry it in the car for blowdowns on the driveway and the roads.
Thank you for being a female doing this video. I’m try very hard to do everything I can since my husbands works a lot . I try to take care of the yard . I just appreciate a woman doing this video (and I’m thankful for all of the hard work real men out there )!
Starting my chainsaw, I use to put my foot through the hole where the hand to operate it normally goes. The Chainsaw doesn't jump around then when you pull the starter cord.Easier too.
@@ValChristian-c9m YES! Why is it that the handles of all chainsaws are just a bit too small to get the toe of your boot into the handle? They all need a bit of a redesign; perhaps all the manufacturers assume that people drop-start their saws. I never do that because it seems dangerous to me.
@@richardjames4632 I couldn't agree more. In user manuals manufacturers advise against drop-starting and advise to use safety gear, but still are not able to make the handle wide enough to put the toe of a safety boot into it
Like how neat your shop is, how professional and knowledgeable you are, and how well you narrate and edit. And you look beautiful with your hair down, a nice touch at the end of the video.
I have an MS250 and use it daily, it’s a great little saw, especially with a fresh chain. Mine too requires a good rip to get it started and I’ve wrenched my wrist a few times. An old guy showed me a trick a few months ago and as crazy as this is, it fixed the hard pull start. Instead of holding the pull rope between your index finger and middle finger. Hold the rope between your middle finger and 3rd finger, so the rope/handle are in the middle of your hand. Then give it a rip, I haven’t had an issue since I switched my grip.
I will have to give this a try next time I grab my MS250...which may well be before the end of the week. Thanks for the tip from "an old guy" to me another old(ish) guy.
This is interesting. I have an MS250 and it's been a great little saw. Just homeowner use, not a pro by any means. But it usually starts right up and runs great. Sharpen the chain or throw a new one on once in a while and it does great amounts of work. But mine first started leaking bar oil all over the case while stored...upright. So replaced the cap and took the case apart to clean it all up, Problem fixed (I may actually have just put the cap back on wrong last time I filled it but a new cap fixed it either way). So I put a new gas cap, gas and air filters and spark plug in it while I was working on it. Now it's doing just what you're saying, pulling my arm off and nearly impossible to start. I didn't mess with the carb at all and I'm the original owner so it's never been messed with. I'll take a look at the flywheel and coil next but it may need a new carb. The saw is probably 15 years old or more but I generally use it a couple times a year and use good gas and oil.
I have run mine wide open since I got it. Never failed to start once! About 8 yrs old. Never changed the plug. Use only Stihl mix period. Have changed the rope once. Been throught 10+ chains. Fine saw for me. But I only cutup trees that have been blown down. Lot of that here. Cuts them up great!😊
Excellent presentation. Very methodical. I am a small engine technician in the UK working on lots of main brands of horticultural machines and the first person to blame is the owner / operator in all cases. It's their machine and it is their problem. I've had customers ranting and raving that the machine is junk and they either want their money back or the machine fixed free of charge under warranty. But it invariably is something that they are doing or have done. manufacturers spend a lot of time and money designing machines and it's very rare that the machine fails without the assistance of a bodging owner or someone that has been lent a machine. I have a wealth of stories of things that owners / users do to machines. Love from the UK.
You know i just found this channel and found it very helpful. Im a disabled vet whos recently started working on 2 cycle stuff, chainsaws, weedeaters etc.. we are a stihl dealer and i got my bronze but no where near silver. I get very disappointed in myself when i cant diagnose something right off the bat,i realize i overthink things way to much. Im pretty much on my own i have no one to talk to regarding whats next scenarios so i really get frustrated. Thank you for your time in doing these and please take care.
Hi! I am so glad you are here and thank you for your thoughtful comment. It's very easy to overthink these repairs. Sometimes (like in my MS250 vid) you just have to stop and go back to the basics.
I bought my MS250 from my local JD Dealer, Last one in stock before they put out the new ones with bulb - I have a pre bulb MS250 and it ran sweet for many years, always started always ready to go. In last couple years it started running and stopping after 5 min. then progressively in same day in next 4 to 5 starts would run less time each time till just would not start. Took to shop and replaced coil. sweet again but after about 10 min. it did same thing, I opened it up and realized if they had put a new coil in it, it should be a little cleaner than it was for only making about 15 rounds cuts on 10" trees. I purchased a coil and replaced coil - it could be slightly out but close enough and should not die as it had been like plastic housing warming up and wires disconnecting in coil - only thing left is carb. shops around here are so un-trust worthy - want new gaskets etc. - iam a difficult customer i hear now. still possibly need a carb . I have done shelf fuel, and Non Ethanol mixed with Stihl synthetic mix small bottles 1. gal. mixtures. 2 new air filters, 3 plugs, 2 fuel filters - all on top of what originally i had in it when problems arose. ( Plus new fuel lines, electrical came with coil i put in. Iam about 50 bucks away from having spent what a new one would have cost. I actually bought a new one at ACE and it would not start a second time when they were pre fuel and starting it for sales so I ended up cancelling that CC transaction and re done because of warranty's then they had another and purchased that one, seemed all good, left- picked up mini excavator and headed for little property 45 miles away - saw would never start, it popped once and that was it. needless to say i took it back-manager would not except it so i left it on counter with papers and said CC will be stopped payment and never been back in last year. This brings me up to my age and hand- finger size- unable to put a carb on and stuck with finding a good shop, I even have 5 carbide chains and 2 extra roller bars , been using a HF chain sharpener so about 4 years ago I bought an Oregon sharpener and am quite good, I have a few guys whom are fire wood cutters ask me to sharpen their chains- usaly 8 or 10 at a time a year- I feel honored and the 8 bucks a chain is good - Iam retired disabled vet. i have a lot of free time but not a lot of time.
I bought a brand new Stihl cutoff saw about 10 years ago. A month after owning it we couldn’t start it. Brought it back to the dealer. They put a new carburetor on it. Didn’t have a problem after that
Thanks for the tutorial, I have two MS 250's that do this when they sit awhile and when they do start they smoke, I'm a older guy and I'm almost afraid to start these arm breakers, I just ordered a new Echo just so I have a saw that does't try to hurt me.
I have a Stihl 032 that had been giving me same problem. Ran well but took two arms to start. (I made a starting board to hold it down with two feet while starting.) I hadn't considered the coil, so cleaned and gaped it yesterday. Wow, I'm 79 with a shoulder replacement. It started like it was brand new. Thank you for the informative video. The saw is about 44 years old and I heat the house with wood so it gets a great workout in southeast Michigan.
i us the dropsaw method to start ms250 . when its warmed up i hold cord and saw shoulder hieght and thro tha saw away. just for fun. 91 octane fuel and 38:1 mix . WE need a John Force version of a chain saw fixin video.. i am about 400 miles North east of u . and i like my new electric saw just fine. 🐺
I have two of these and love them - when they start, that is. I gave up on that aggravation and got an 80 volt electric from Harbor Freight. GREAT decision. Cuts great and battery lasts a long time.
Cool video. I have 2 MS250's along with a MS362. I keep 2 with one being a back-up for the other, in case of issues. I'm in North Idaho and my dealer had to consolidate repairs to their main warehouse in Spokane, Washington last year (staffing-no one wants to work on saws or work for that matter). Turn around now takes over a week to two weeks, so I bought a back-up, since I use it all Spring and Summer. After you bringing up the hard start, explains a lot. It's still a hard working saw.
I have a 250 that has a partially broken flywheel key. It lines up fine, so I’m thinking that will work for now… I still can’t start the thing, however! I even replaced the two seals. I guess I’m going to replace the carb next!
I also thought for SURE that it was Sheared as well ... but then my only real experience of replacing them is on Lawnmowers .. Never seen one actually sheared on a Stihl Chainsaw.... but the symptoms certainly matched .
Watching your video is a good example of why I don't loan out my chainsaw. Borrowers don't take care of equipment. I remember my neighbor telling me a story about loaning out his chainsaw out to somebody , guy returned his saw but didn't tell him he had burned raw gas in it !
63 here and live in logging country. Have owned many chainsaws over the years and have always worked on my own saws. Maybe I'm just a strong Ole' man but I've never had any trouble at all starting my MS 250 or any of my Echo's or Husky's for that matter. The Stihl MS 250 is an absolute fantastic saw.
Sometimes when you can't find your sunglasses... check above your brow before leading a search party. Have been there many times myself. Good or bad days.. it is always great to be alive. Thanks for sharing Erica. 👍
Yep, im a Setup/Floor Technician at my shop. Anyone tells me they are having a problem and they start going off about checking this this or that. I begin at ground zero. It may hurt their ego because they think u dont trust them. But i cant tell you how many times, they say it wasnt this or that because they looked at it. And it ends up being something very simple. Obviously he didn't say any of this, but wanted to act as if he didnt break the seal. So he could hopefully get it under warranty, unlikely being an old saw. But ego's are big when it comes to chainsaws! People hate to admit they were wrong or that they may have made a mistake. Especially if its a female repair tech. Some guys cant accept that a woman may be more mechanically inclined than they are... So unfortunately we've all been there. So basically start at ground zero and do all the simple checks first. That dont require new parts for replacing them after checking them out... at least without first discussing the added costs with the owner/cudtomer anyways.
You are SO CLEVER! You think of things I never considered. I have the same problem with mine that this fellow had. But you have shown me many things to try or look over. THANK YOU - much appreciated…
As an old mechanic, this lady is a real pro. Very organized in her diagnostics and repair process. OK, watched to the end. Not your fault. On the client this time, they need to disclose. If you go to the Dr, you disclose, so why not in a repair shop? Because the client is embarrassed that they tried to fix it and failed.
Havent used a chainsaw for many years and mostly Huskies. This lady was a gem amongst stones. Great presentation, humble, knowledgable and professional. Well done.
I thought it was the flywheel key also. Thanks for the tip on keeping my tool out of the wrong hole, that will keep a guy from getting into alot of truoble!
very good tutorial. you're spot on about arm/shoulder ache from some of these machines and if you ever hurt your shoulder like I did pulling on a stubborn saw it's months before it heals properly.
When putting your piston stop tool in the spark plug hole, you can remove the exhaust muffler and look into the exhaust port and make sure that the tool does not protrude the exhaust port. Keep up the good work.
By the time you spent that much labor and parts, I’m betting the bill was as much or more than the saw is worth. I have two 250s that have the same trouble, one especially bad! One was given to me by my brother who gave up on it, and the other I bought at a yard sale for $10! Both are great little homeowner saws. I’ve found that when it kicks, it’s saying “I’m ready, take the choke off”. Couple pulls and it’s running! I have several other saws, all Stihl, but my very favorite is a little 023 that has several hundred hours on it… worn out, very little compression, but still starts easy, runs good! Enjoy your videos, well done! Thanks for sharing!
Yep. I have had the same thing happen with mine. Have been careful to take that choke off at the first sign of a hard pull. Also, for the infrequency of use, I have found the Stihl premix fuel is well worth the money. It has been no trouble with the premix.
My 250 does the same thing. I noticed that 2 pulls is enough, even when it doesn't start. Turn off the choke and 80% of the time it will start on the 3rd pull.(On daily use. It could be different if the saw didn't run for 6 months)
Great video and of great help! I have an MS 250 that can be hard to start and usually the remedy is a new plug. One item in the video that appeared to be missing was checking the spark plug gap before installing. Otherwise, well done!
I've seen this. Fuel doesn't compress and an excess of fuel makes it hard to pull rope. Sometimes you can't pull the rope at all. What surprises me is that we didn't see fuel at the exhaust outlet.
I've got several 025's, one of which "someone"😂 gutted the muffler and reset the lo and hi screws. 👋 😮. Why?...don't know, because they both run about the same still. I use my 262xp and 046mag for the heavy lifting. Great video, new subscriber out.
Just goes to show every day is a learning day. Carburetor seems to be the most common problem. With chainsaws. These videos are fantastic can't thank you enough for showing them keep up the great work.
Now that is an example of a tech doing their job. Sure she had a self inflicted issue, stand up any of you who have never, my butt remains firmly planted. The customer was returned a working chainsaw, the mechanic was smart enough to to relearn a lesson and we have been treated to 23:30 of professional, exemplary work with a pinch of wry humor. Subbed, this was terrific, thank you.
You did exactly as you should have given the info you had but then you took it into your own hands to figure it out and you found the problem. Great job! Some people will not tell you accurate descriptions of the history.
I bought one last year not realising the potential starting issues.... However its been awesome, powerful little saw and has started easily so far, from cold choke till burp usually 2 pulls, then chock off max 2 pulls. Even when flooded its not bad to clear and start so far. So light and powerful its a keeper.
I have a had few of these,I start these like falling saw,do a few slow rolls to get fuel in slug and jug and then choke and rip it hard and they start instantly.
There's no need to appoligize. This is what I consider learning. Thank you for the awesome detailed work. You taught this lawnmower owner quite a bit for chainsaw motor repair.
Everything I see gets a dry and wet compression test and an Endoscope viewing. Good find on the carb issue. Also, I feel your pain with customers not revealing the true history.
I have had 15-20 of these and some have the problem and others do not. I have suspected that some of mine have had crank bearings that might have been in not so great condition.
I've got a vintage McCulloch from the 70's with an alloy case which I serviced and cleaned everything. It starts up no problem with plenty of compression and runs fine until it gets hot then won't start again until it cools down. Do you know what could be causing it to do that please? The mixture is right and i used leaded petrol yet it still does that. Its a shame because other than being quite heavy its a great saw for small jobs. Great video. You have earned my subscription 👌👍💚💛❤️
I have a mid-1990's 025 and it's the same way, these are high-compression saws and casual owners coming from box store Poulan and Craftsman chainsaws always complain about starting a Stihl. I also have a MS391 and with its decomp valve it's probably a little easier to pull over vs my 025.
You have my sympathy when a non working or poorly working machine turns up on my bench too often I jump to conclusions "I know what that is" and somehow it never is and only eventually do you discover that the machine which "was running perfectly last week" has not worked for years. Well done.
I have an MS250, it has done years of work and still goes well. It has a cylinder decompression valve to help with starting, I wondered if this saw didn't have that. Great video, thank you from NZ.
I can’t imagine your SKILL level to accomplish this task. I only change the spark plug when mine is hard to start. Very good video on tracking down the problem and fixing it. Thanks for sharing 😊.
I went from a Stihl 024 saw( from about 1985) which always ran very well but parts became hard to find about 20 years later. Got an MS250 and it was just as bad as in the video. Gave it away and bought an MS261 pro saw (I used pro saws for trail maintenance and knew the difference) and it has no problems at all. Compression release make it easy to start, 4 hp vs3 (250 saw) for same weight, much less vibration, need service far less often. You get what you pay for, in my book.
It can be so easy to overlook the little things. I’ve done it myself a few times, so no sense in beating yourself up over it. All you can do is learn from it and bank it for next time. Though, I was thinking just like you - flywheel key sheared or wrong air gap on the coil. It is never good when someone who thinks they have an idea to fix something does so instead of taking it to someone who knows how to do so!
As a Stihl technician and owner of an MS 250 I can tell you they are a very hard to pull saw. I sold a lot of them but always cautioned the customer that most women, elderly or folks with a bad shoulder should consider a different model. If you don’t pull it like you mean it it will jerk starter handle out of your hand. I always thought that a larger diameter rope pulley would help this.
@rickringler5021. See, if you had been my dealer I would still be a Stihl customer. Too many of them just don’t give a crap when a homeowner walks in to buy.
I had a little 015AV and loaned it to a friend. Never gave me any trouble but for him it locked up. Took me 10 sec to fig out what he did. Early model saws used a stronger gas / oil mix, whereas newer modern saws are like 50:1 I believe. Some old timers still use the 25:1 mix. Might have something to do with the carbon buildup.
Like you said, this is very common with the MS250's. The compression can get very high after breaking in. This happened to mine. The dealer could not do anything to improve on it either. I put an elasto start rope on it and it helps if you pull it one click out before pulling hard on it. The first click is the one that jerks your arm the most. Lots of info about this problem online.
Just a hobbyist small engine tech guy's observations: The gasoline seems to have an inordinate amount of dye color, like possibly the premix oil is at 25:1 and if this engine has been run on a regime of this oil heavy premix by guess, I would also assume that there is considerable carbon buildup in the cylinder. Did you pull the muffler and inspect the exhaust port and the piston top for carbon deposits?
Great video! I opened my 250's muffler up abut 3 times larger and run it with the cover off, and absolutely run the piss out of it..... I know its not good for the saw, but i do this with all my saws..... and run them hard. My new 400 was disappointing but after openning the muffler up, and a 24" bar is now acceptable performance.
So, did the new carb solve the kickback problem when starting? I could see how the old carb running rich would cause a carbon build up on the piston and combustion chamber, thereby increasing the compression enough to cause hard starting. It would seem like the only cure for that would be to pull the cylinder and scrape off the carbon.
The new carb solved the problem. The old carb was over fueling - which explains why I seen smoke. I don't know the history on this saw, and I'm not even sure if my customer bought it new or if he bought it used. All I know is that someone had their hands on that carb trying to compensate for something. Sometimes I feel like the chainsaw investigator trying to put all the missing pieces together Haha
The kick back on my MS250 was "solved" by pulling slow until the piston met compression load. Then a quick pull always avoided the kickback. Solved the problem. Didn't do anything with the limiter caps or any carb adjustments.
Wow, good video. I thought for sure it would be the flywheel key. Learn a lot. Question; would a couple of tanks of engineered fuel and high rpm’s help get rid of the carbon from the piston?
Hi, Thanks for stopping in! I can't say for sure if that would clean it up, but I do know for sure that this saws needs to be worked hard to clean itself out! I don't think its used enough and I don't think he runs it full out. It probably never gets hot enough to burn the carbon off.
I learned the cold start procedure has to be closely followed. Full choke, pull until it fires once, half choke until it starts then choke off. It does flood very easily. Once warm, it’ll start all day with one pull. I always run ethanol free gas through the saw before storing it. And if it’s months before using it again, I drain it. Saves a lot of problems.
Hi ,1st time viewer.I like your video,it is very informative.Might i suggest 2 things to enhance them? A glass BEAKER for the fuel exam,so WE can see the water or particles and a testlong or other brand inexpensive bore scope or endoscope for your cylinder exams. oh and maybe a compression tester.This is just stuff that as your looking at them ,we can also see what you mean.Your explanations are good and if we can actually see it at the same time as you then great.I'm subbing because now you and Bree at chickcanic are bringing viewers tools to help us get ready for summer.thanks
WOW! My old climbing saw 009L can pull my arm off if it will even pull. All systems EXCEPT the carb are fine. Thx for the tip. Even the MS261 without the comp release pushed in pulls easier than the 009. Now onto the carb thx to your work. I had to go with a gift Husky 338XPT for a tiny saw. Excellent job.
I have rarely used a chainsaw. I watched this video because it seemed interesting. This person was very engaging, knowledgeable, and interesting to watch. In the end, she placed the responsibility for not checking "the small things first" directly on her shoulders. I live in South America where it is shameful for a person to admit they did something other than perfection. I love people who are strong enough emotionally to understand that we can't all be perfect all the time. Great job, and if I had a chainsaw that needed servicing, I would hope to find someone like you to work on it.
Your sweet, thank you!
Agreed!
@@marriedwithsmallenginesn
Such a positive and thoughtful comment.
I have an 028 with very similar problems. I never would have thought it might be the carb. This is very helpful
I am a 20+ year STIHL Master Whench Service Tech in the Northeast U.S. The MS250 is an amazing chainsaw, the power to weight ratio is amazing. HOWEVER they have more pull resistance than any other saw in the line up. It will start in the same amount of pulls as any BUT you have to pull it like you are mad at it. I had a meeting with all of our counter guys and made sure that they pass that info onto the unsuspecting customer who is purchasing the saw. We have had hundreds of these come back for hard starting, meanwhile there is literally nothing wrong with them per se other than the customers not pulling hard enough. I own a MS250 and I love it. It’s my go to, my favorite.
I have a MS-250 it’s hard to start too.
I got 2 at work and one at home. Love these things!
She said that. She knows the MS250 has a high compression engine, therefore hard to start. She even said she's careful who she sells them to as in what they are doing with the saw and makes sure they know it does pull hard and they need to take that into consideration. She's saying that it is unusually hard to start, even for an MS250. Should watch and listen to the whole video.
I believe an easy start was available for this model when it first came out.
ms391 does that once in awhile sometimes pulls no other times rips cord outa your hand.. owner replaced coil.. im thinking its not in spec on coil
MS250 owner here. Excellent information. Thank you!
Bad arms and back here... and I'm on my second MS250. It's a good saw. I'd only add that...
the saw CAN be a real stinker to start... IF care is not taken under full choke.
Suggestions:
- Find a good video on the proper starting procedure. Doing so has delayed my meeting Jesus and reduced my profanity tirades by a factor of at least 4. That's probably what happened to my first MS250 (it died of shame as I verbally assaulted it over the years). Don't be me. Learn (early) how to properly start your MS250. So, here's what I learned...
- I've found that it's important to listen and be super-aware on the initial full-choke pulls. If you don't hear/acknowledge the priming (final) pull in full choke, and continue pulling/fail to advance to half choke, it takes ONLY ONE superfluous full-choke pull to vapor lock (or flood... not sure) your engine.
When this happens, you can cuss and pull till your arm comes off... and the saw WILL NOT start (not anytime soon anyways).
- To help avoid this, I learned to slide half of my hearing PPE up so I can LISTEN while I was pulling in full choke. I've also found that going gloveless (just on start up) helps the senses detect the very subtle priming/final pull. Listening is the main thing.
- If you lock/flood your engine in full choke, the best solution I've found is to remove the cover, air filter, winter screen, plug wire and either loosen or remove the plug, pull several times to clear, reinstall parts... and pay better attention when you are on your full-choke initial pulls.
- Bonus: treat your plug wire (on the saw) with kid gloves. Parts quality (I believe) has gone down hill as of late. Early on, my second MS250 became difficult to start, the gremlin going undiagnosed for an entire season (complete profanity relapse ensued... I was down to learning curse words in other languages by the end of winter... that poor saw). The next spring, the long-fatigued plug wire gave up the ghost and came off in my hand. Replacing it confirmed the elusive problem... frayed or fractured plug wire that chose which days it was going to close the circuit and allow starting. Moral... plug wires (on saws) are not designed for repetitive un/reinstalling. Possibly my fault, but likely a crappy plug wire.
- Lay in a supply of spare parts for a rainy day(s) and/or chintzy part failures brought on by the communist invasion and resulting decline of society, infrastructure and build quality.
Hope this helps. Good luck and be safe.
I like your no BS methodical approach to resolve the problem. Nicely done
Thank you!
One thing that I have found as a Stihl Technician, is that you need to make sure the cylinder has some fuel mixture in it. Just a small squirt will not flood it but lubricate it and prime it to start easier. Always hold the interlock and the throttle wide open and set to full choke if you are not prep-priming the cylinder under normal circumstances. you will notice that even though the choke is fully closed, the throttle is open somewhat. This reduces pulling tension needed to turn the engine over faster and with less difficulty. 1 to 3 pulls is all you need normally with full choke. If the saw "pops" then immediately, without touching the throttle, move the choke lever to half choke. If you have per-primed with a small shot of fuel into the cylinder for lubrication this is where the choke needs to be in this sequence. Now the throttle is still open but not fully choked. This makes it even easier to pull with both butterflies open. The saw will usually start very quickly with just a few more pulls. The engine RPM will race so be quick to pull the throttle to fully release the choke and lower the RPM as needed. As we work on these saws we learn the interlocks both at the throttle and in the linkages to help us start these powerful tools.
Yep! Exactly the correct starting procedure! Was taught this first day 20 years back on the correct way to start the MS250.
^..^~~
Could also be that the saw has carbon deposits from too much oil to fuel ratio. The throttle being at fast idle indent on the choke has little to do this any force increase, these are piston port two strokes and there is little to zip of any engine braking at cranking speed, if anything, wetting the cylinder with fresh fuel is going to increase the compression ratio, making it harder to start.
Why Stihl released this saw without a partial decompressor valve is a mystery.
I spray starting fluid onto the air filter for about one second, quickly put the cover back on, hope I didn't flood it with ether, pull a couple times with no choke, which rarely works, then try once with full choke, try again with half choke and maybe full throttle, if it isn't trying to break my arm by now, I usually get it going. Surprised that all those ether shots hasn't ruined my compression..nope, MS290 20 years old, no compression release, still seems like full compression after maybe 1000 starts. It's a devil!
Thank you sir. Did the trick and got it started.
Not on you! I worked in the service field for motorcycles, lawn and garden equipment, generators, etc. What I learned and it saved me a lot of time was while I was writing up the ticket and talking to the customer was, "what did you do to try and fix it?"
9 out of 10 that was where the problem was.
Great vid. Excellent presentation. Very methodical. Just remember a lot of times is if we're not making errors, we're not learning. Thank you and keep up the great work.
It's a chainsaw.... it's always the carb! Until proven otherwise!
Hate thier carbs !!!
You would be surprised...not always.
Spark plug, then carb.
I'm 82 years old and had to give my 14 year old MS250 to my 32 year old grandson. The saw was hard to pull from day one but I lived with it till last year. No problem starting...just hard to pull (no decompression valve) which is a common complaint with the MS 250 when looking around the net.
Replaced it with a MS250 C-BC Z/18" bar easy start system. Now its a pleasure to use.
My grate uncle owned a Johnson sp 49 chainsaw year 1984 he was age 73 and smoking cigarettes I was age 15 I use too have too station the chainsaw for him too work it strong compression
I bought my wife an MS180C with the easy-start feature, She'd be unable to start it without that.
A Lot of fuzzz about the coil
Just running a saw at 82 is impressive enough but starting the old ms250 is even more so. Cheers
I have a 42-year-old, Stihl 028 Super that I first used for commercial timber thinning, running it very hard for 10 hours a day, seven days a week, for three years. It is now relegated to brush clearing around my property and other light duty. It has never had a rebuild, but occasionally becomes hard starting. A simple, quick carburetor clean and overhaul has always solved the problem and makes it run like new. New to your channel and this was very informative, especially pressure testing the fuel system, which I didn't know about.
Thats a good run !
Good Lord! I've never saw a more methodical fix that the lady does! Absolutely fantastic job!
Wow, thank you!
@@marriedwithsmallengines Agreed, I like the straightforward, no-nonsense approach.
Now if you'll come here and fix my old McCullough (old age, needs the primer kit)...
Yeah, she could do or be anything she puts her mind to, I bet. Husbands a lucky sob --hellavu good woman right there.
@@ReziacIf you ever need advice or parts for Macs there's some good folks in the McCulloch thread on Arboristsite who are more than happy to help.
I have had a husky 142 for 15 years. Used lightly for pruning and firewood. It became hard to start and wouldn't run. I was really puzzled, dismantled the carb. All looked good, but no dice. Finally I tried adjusting the H jet, and yeah it now works like new! So happy that I figured it out, and fixed my baby. A chainsaw is like a dog! Cheers from New Zealand😊
I can’t resist… you said “don’t put your tool in the wrong hole” and I just, well, that’s a massive understatement. You finished your video with a smile and acknowledged that you’ll do this job again. I am a counter guy on occasion for a friend’s shop. I love helping on the counter. Started as the parts man and then migrated to the counter. You do a thorough job and that’s commendable. I’ll tuck this info on the MS 250 into my ever diminishing mind for future reference, the info is priceless and you are too! Thanks for a great video and you have a new subscriber! Have a blessed day!
Concur. ❤🤣
When you had taken the saw out without the bar and chain, you can hear the drag on the throttle response. I always hit the carb first when I see ready mix fuel. As for the special tool for the piston, use a pull rope this way your not messing around with a flashlight. You are spot on talking about the compression on that saw. It will rip your arm off if you don't find the sweet spot.
Excellent repair vid! I love that you guys keep things simple and clear without a lot of annoying music and frivolity. Thank you Erica for taking us along on this learning experience. I love working on chainsaws and have been doing it for quite a few years and I learned something today watching you troubleshoot this 250. Another job well done. Good work lady❤❤
Thank you so much for your wonderful comments!
Exactly. Well said. No-frills precision & clarity. How refreshing!
Great Video 💯♥️
Bad ass
Take away notes never put your tool in the wrong hole especially while fishing in the dark.
This is by far the best demo/instructions video about checking the chainsaw without any BS! Amazing, keep up the good work!
Wow, thanks!
My MS250 is a great little saw. It’s the first saw I grab when I need to do a quick cutting job.
Thank you for showing us through the trouble shooting process. I’ll remember it when its needed🙂
Great video, thank you . I have a MS 250 and it runs great with no complaints. I pull it over on choke slowly the 1st time then the 2nd pull with the choke still on I do it full speed and it fires up with out riping the recoil rope out of my hand.
I worked on a Stihl 046 and it also was a hard starter. I am 73 yrs old and it would try to pull my arm off. I rebuilt it a couple of times, replaced the crankshaft, piston and cylinder. It is one of those saws that wants to pull your arm off. So I made an electric saw started . I took a 1/2 hp electric motor that can run both forward and reverse. I machined an adapter that matches the flywheel pull starter. (you have to remove the pull starter housing.) I engage the motor/adapter to the chainsaw and I have the electric motor plugged in. I have a foot switch that has a momentary contact switch installed. You engage the motor and saw, step on the momentary foot switch and the electric motor starts the chainsaw with very little effort. It sure beats letting the chainsaw beat me to death. When the chain saw starts it automatically disengages the chainsaw. I use this tool on saws that are hard to start. It lets me figure out problems without wearing me out.
I have a ms250 .Its a love /hate relationship.I love it when it starts. You can't rely on this chainsaw at all.I had it back to the dealer many times. You can pull on it and it may start, sit it down , 5 minutes later pick it up and it won't start. Sometimes it won't start at all sometimes it will start every pull. Everything on this saw has been gone over. Even the dealer told me they have issues with the cheaper saws. Now I grab the old stihl 260 and the Dolmar.The MS 250 is name correctly MS Might start
I also have a Stihl battery saw and it always starts very easily, has no fuel issues, etc. My go to saw for firewood. My sawing technique got better as this saw does not like to be forced at all. It will do the job on its own just fine. I can carry it in the car for blowdowns on the driveway and the roads.
Thank you for being a female doing this video. I’m try very hard to do everything I can since my husbands works a lot . I try to take care of the yard . I just appreciate a woman doing this video (and I’m thankful for all of the hard work real men out there )!
Starting my chainsaw, I use to put my foot through the hole where the hand to operate it normally goes. The Chainsaw doesn't jump around then when you pull the starter cord.Easier too.
Tiny feet or pointy boots ?
Hard with 17EEEE lumberjack feet.
@@ValChristian-c9m
YES! Why is it that the handles of all chainsaws are just a bit too small to get the toe of your boot into the handle? They all need a bit of a redesign; perhaps all the manufacturers assume that people drop-start their saws. I never do that because it seems dangerous to me.
@@richardjames4632 I couldn't agree more. In user manuals manufacturers advise against drop-starting and advise to use safety gear, but still are not able to make the handle wide enough to put the toe of a safety boot into it
Like how neat your shop is, how professional and knowledgeable you are, and how well you narrate and edit. And you look beautiful with your hair down, a nice touch at the end of the video.
Thank you so much!
I have an MS250 and use it daily, it’s a great little saw, especially with a fresh chain. Mine too requires a good rip to get it started and I’ve wrenched my wrist a few times. An old guy showed me a trick a few months ago and as crazy as this is, it fixed the hard pull start. Instead of holding the pull rope between your index finger and middle finger. Hold the rope between your middle finger and 3rd finger, so the rope/handle are in the middle of your hand. Then give it a rip, I haven’t had an issue since I switched my grip.
I will have to give this a try next time I grab my MS250...which may well be before the end of the week. Thanks for the tip from "an old guy" to me another old(ish) guy.
Small stuff first big stuff falls in line.Very fun to watch .Knowledgeable,enjoyable, informative. Thank you !
This is interesting. I have an MS250 and it's been a great little saw. Just homeowner use, not a pro by any means. But it usually starts right up and runs great. Sharpen the chain or throw a new one on once in a while and it does great amounts of work. But mine first started leaking bar oil all over the case while stored...upright. So replaced the cap and took the case apart to clean it all up, Problem fixed (I may actually have just put the cap back on wrong last time I filled it but a new cap fixed it either way). So I put a new gas cap, gas and air filters and spark plug in it while I was working on it. Now it's doing just what you're saying, pulling my arm off and nearly impossible to start. I didn't mess with the carb at all and I'm the original owner so it's never been messed with. I'll take a look at the flywheel and coil next but it may need a new carb. The saw is probably 15 years old or more but I generally use it a couple times a year and use good gas and oil.
I have run mine wide open since I got it. Never failed to start once!
About 8 yrs old.
Never changed the plug. Use only Stihl mix period.
Have changed the rope once. Been throught 10+ chains.
Fine saw for me. But I only cutup trees that have been blown down. Lot of that here. Cuts them up great!😊
Excellent presentation. Very methodical. I am a small engine technician in the UK working on lots of main brands of horticultural machines and the first person to blame is the owner / operator in all cases. It's their machine and it is their problem. I've had customers ranting and raving that the machine is junk and they either want their money back or the machine fixed free of charge under warranty. But it invariably is something that they are doing or have done. manufacturers spend a lot of time and money designing machines and it's very rare that the machine fails without the assistance of a bodging owner or someone that has been lent a machine. I have a wealth of stories of things that owners / users do to machines. Love from the UK.
My 1st time ever seeing you and your videos, your awesome I subscribed!
You know i just found this channel and found it very helpful. Im a disabled vet whos recently started working on 2 cycle stuff, chainsaws, weedeaters etc.. we are a stihl dealer and i got my bronze but no where near silver. I get very disappointed in myself when i cant diagnose something right off the bat,i realize i overthink things way to much. Im pretty much on my own i have no one to talk to regarding whats next scenarios so i really get frustrated. Thank you for your time in doing these and please take care.
Hi! I am so glad you are here and thank you for your thoughtful comment. It's very easy to overthink these repairs. Sometimes (like in my MS250 vid) you just have to stop and go back to the basics.
I bought my MS250 from my local JD Dealer, Last one in stock before they put out the new ones with bulb - I have a pre bulb MS250 and it ran sweet for many years, always started always ready to go. In last couple years it started running and stopping after 5 min. then progressively in same day in next 4 to 5 starts would run less time each time till just would not start. Took to shop and replaced coil. sweet again but after about 10 min. it did same thing, I opened it up and realized if they had put a new coil in it, it should be a little cleaner than it was for only making about 15 rounds cuts on 10" trees. I purchased a coil and replaced coil - it could be slightly out but close enough and should not die as it had been like plastic housing warming up and wires disconnecting in coil - only thing left is carb. shops around here are so un-trust worthy - want new gaskets etc. - iam a difficult customer i hear now. still possibly need a carb . I have done shelf fuel, and Non Ethanol mixed with Stihl synthetic mix small bottles 1. gal. mixtures. 2 new air filters, 3 plugs, 2 fuel filters - all on top of what originally i had in it when problems arose. ( Plus new fuel lines, electrical came with coil i put in. Iam about 50 bucks away from having spent what a new one would have cost. I actually bought a new one at ACE and it would not start a second time when they were pre fuel and starting it for sales so I ended up cancelling that CC transaction and re done because of warranty's then they had another and purchased that one, seemed all good, left- picked up mini excavator and headed for little property 45 miles away - saw would never start, it popped once and that was it. needless to say i took it back-manager would not except it so i left it on counter with papers and said CC will be stopped payment and never been back in last year. This brings me up to my age and hand- finger size- unable to put a carb on and stuck with finding a good shop, I even have 5 carbide chains and 2 extra roller bars , been using a HF chain sharpener so about 4 years ago I bought an Oregon sharpener and am quite good, I have a few guys whom are fire wood cutters ask me to sharpen their chains- usaly 8 or 10 at a time a year- I feel honored and the 8 bucks a chain is good - Iam retired disabled vet. i have a lot of free time but not a lot of time.
Brilliant! It is always a surprise to me that these 'simple' 2 stroke engines can be such hard work to fault find and get running well!
I bought a brand new Stihl cutoff saw about 10 years ago. A month after owning it we couldn’t start it. Brought it back to the dealer. They put a new carburetor on it. Didn’t have a problem after that
That grin was priceless when talking about installing the piston stop tool
"That's what she said" Lol!
Nothing worse than getting your tool in the wrong hole.
I scrolled through thinking nobody was going to make note of that😅 I guess there's more adults here than I thought
@@pcallah3442I thought the same thing, but I'm a dirty old man.
Thanks for the tutorial, I have two MS 250's that do this when they sit awhile and when they do start they smoke, I'm a older guy and I'm almost afraid to start these arm breakers, I just ordered a new Echo just so I have a saw that does't try to hurt me.
I have a Stihl 032 that had been giving me same problem. Ran well but took two arms to start. (I made a starting board to hold it down with two feet while starting.) I hadn't considered the coil, so cleaned and gaped it yesterday. Wow, I'm 79 with a shoulder replacement. It started like it was brand new. Thank you for the informative video. The saw is about 44 years old and I heat the house with wood so it gets a great workout in southeast Michigan.
i us the dropsaw method to start ms250 . when its warmed up i hold cord and saw shoulder hieght and thro tha saw away. just for fun. 91 octane fuel and 38:1 mix .
WE need a John Force version of a chain saw fixin video..
i am about 400 miles North east of u . and i like my new electric saw just fine. 🐺
I have two of these and love them - when they start, that is. I gave up on that aggravation and got an 80 volt electric from Harbor Freight. GREAT decision. Cuts great and battery lasts a long time.
My brother has one. Impressive.
Excellent demonstration of problem solving and methodical approach to a service.
Go Canucks, you're awesome.
Lady, you are an excellent teacher!
Cool video. I have 2 MS250's along with a MS362. I keep 2 with one being a back-up for the other, in case of issues. I'm in North Idaho and my dealer had to consolidate repairs to their main warehouse in Spokane, Washington last year (staffing-no one wants to work on saws or work for that matter). Turn around now takes over a week to two weeks, so I bought a back-up, since I use it all Spring and Summer. After you bringing up the hard start, explains a lot. It's still a hard working saw.
Thanks for sharing!
she put in a NGK plug. good idea.
When I heard the symptoms my first thought was flywheel key.
Good perseverance to get it fixed.
I wasn't going to let this chainsaw beat me!
I'm putting my Stihl in the yardsale. Piece of shit. Plus my dealer was a real dick.
My Husqvarna chainsaws never fail and never break an arm.
I have a 250 that has a partially broken flywheel key. It lines up fine, so I’m thinking that will work for now… I still can’t start the thing, however! I even replaced the two seals. I guess I’m going to replace the carb next!
I also thought for SURE that it was Sheared as well ... but then my only real experience of replacing them is on Lawnmowers .. Never seen one actually sheared on a Stihl Chainsaw.... but the symptoms certainly matched .
I had an old 041 given to me years ago that had a sheared flywheel key. Have no idea how that happened, but a new key and it ran fine again.
I bought one of these a couple years ago and it was impossible to start. I returned it immediately.
Watching your video is a good example of why I don't loan out my chainsaw. Borrowers don't take care of equipment. I remember my neighbor telling me a story about loaning out his chainsaw out to somebody , guy returned his saw but didn't tell him he had burned raw gas in it !
63 here and live in logging country.
Have owned many chainsaws over the years and have always worked on my own saws.
Maybe I'm just a strong Ole' man but I've never had any trouble at all starting my MS 250 or any of my Echo's or Husky's for that matter.
The Stihl MS 250 is an absolute fantastic saw.
Sometimes when you can't find your sunglasses... check above your brow before leading a search party. Have been there many times myself. Good or bad days.. it is always great to be alive. Thanks for sharing Erica. 👍
Thanks for watching!
Happened to my buddy yesterday at work. Right on top of his hat. Oh well.
Yep, im a Setup/Floor Technician at my shop. Anyone tells me they are having a problem and they start going off about checking this this or that. I begin at ground zero. It may hurt their ego because they think u dont trust them. But i cant tell you how many times, they say it wasnt this or that because they looked at it. And it ends up being something very simple. Obviously he didn't say any of this, but wanted to act as if he didnt break the seal. So he could hopefully get it under warranty, unlikely being an old saw. But ego's are big when it comes to chainsaws! People hate to admit they were wrong or that they may have made a mistake. Especially if its a female repair tech. Some guys cant accept that a woman may be more mechanically inclined than they are... So unfortunately we've all been there. So basically start at ground zero and do all the simple checks first. That dont require new parts for replacing them after checking them out... at least without first discussing the added costs with the owner/cudtomer anyways.
Excellent presentation! The MS 250 will be my next chainsaw. Thank you. 👍
You are SO CLEVER! You think of things I never considered. I have the same problem with mine that this fellow had. But you have shown me many things to try or look over. THANK YOU - much appreciated…
As an old mechanic, this lady is a real pro. Very organized in her diagnostics and repair process. OK, watched to the end. Not your fault. On the client this time, they need to disclose. If you go to the Dr, you disclose, so why not in a repair shop? Because the client is embarrassed that they tried to fix it and failed.
I have a Ms 250 and I hadn't have any issues yet but thanks for the help and I hope you have a wonderful week I had learned something new today
Thank you very much, have a great week yourself!
Havent used a chainsaw for many years and mostly Huskies. This lady was a gem amongst stones. Great presentation, humble, knowledgable and professional. Well done.
Wow, thank you!
I thought it was the flywheel key also. Thanks for the tip on keeping my tool out of the wrong hole, that will keep a guy from getting into alot of truoble!
No problem 👍
very good tutorial. you're spot on about arm/shoulder ache from some of these machines and if you ever hurt your shoulder like I did pulling on a stubborn saw it's months before it heals properly.
Good advice right there "try not to put your tool in the wrong hole"
Before removing your nuts
He he! Good advice. 🙃
Every time I try that, I get slapped!!
I hate it when that happens
11:52 in case anyone missed it haha
When putting your piston stop tool in the spark plug hole, you can remove the exhaust muffler and look into the exhaust port and make sure that the tool does not protrude the exhaust port. Keep up the good work.
By the time you spent that much labor and parts, I’m betting the bill was as much or more than the saw is worth. I have two 250s that have the same trouble, one especially bad! One was given to me by my brother who gave up on it, and the other I bought at a yard sale for $10! Both are great little homeowner saws. I’ve found that when it kicks, it’s saying “I’m ready, take the choke off”. Couple pulls and it’s running!
I have several other saws, all Stihl, but my very favorite is a little 023 that has several hundred hours on it… worn out, very little compression, but still starts easy, runs good!
Enjoy your videos, well done! Thanks for sharing!
Yep. I have had the same thing happen with mine. Have been careful to take that choke off at the first sign of a hard pull. Also, for the infrequency of use, I have found the Stihl premix fuel is well worth the money. It has been no trouble with the premix.
My 250 does the same thing. I noticed that 2 pulls is enough, even when it doesn't start. Turn off the choke and 80% of the time it will start on the 3rd pull.(On daily use. It could be different if the saw didn't run for 6 months)
Great video and of great help! I have an MS 250 that can be hard to start and usually the remedy is a new plug. One item in the video that appeared to be missing was checking the spark plug gap before installing. Otherwise, well done!
I've seen this. Fuel doesn't compress and an excess of fuel makes it hard to pull rope. Sometimes you can't pull the rope at all. What surprises me is that we didn't see fuel at the exhaust outlet.
Bingo! You just said the words that I couldn't spit out today.
It call « Hydrolock »
Learning community, l like it!
Sheared flywheel key will do the same
I've got several 025's, one of which "someone"😂 gutted the muffler and reset the lo and hi screws. 👋 😮. Why?...don't know, because they both run about the same still. I use my 262xp and 046mag for the heavy lifting.
Great video, new subscriber out.
Just goes to show every day is a learning day. Carburetor seems to be the most common problem. With chainsaws. These videos are fantastic can't thank you enough for showing them keep up the great work.
I’ve always kept my tool from dropping in the wrong hole. Thanks for reminding me nonetheless.
Now that is an example of a tech doing their job. Sure she had a self inflicted issue, stand up any of you who have never, my butt remains firmly planted. The customer was returned a working chainsaw, the mechanic was smart enough to to relearn a lesson and we have been treated to 23:30 of professional, exemplary work with a pinch of wry humor. Subbed, this was terrific, thank you.
We have a rule - never trust what the customer tells you.
You did exactly as you should have given the info you had but then you took it into your own hands to figure it out and you found the problem. Great job! Some people will not tell you accurate descriptions of the history.
I bought one last year not realising the potential starting issues....
However its been awesome, powerful little saw and has started easily so far, from cold choke till burp usually 2 pulls, then chock off max 2 pulls.
Even when flooded its not bad to clear and start so far. So light and powerful its a keeper.
Right on
Oh & BTW, that premix you dumped out looked really over oiled... No way was that 50:1
Most Excellent work. Well done young lady, well done. Thanks for the lesson. 😊
You do an excellent informative video....Thanks
I have a had few of these,I start these like falling saw,do a few slow rolls to get fuel in slug and jug and then choke and rip it hard and they start instantly.
11:52 You are basically fishing around in the dark, trying not to put your tool in the wrong hole.”
Hehe :)
@@marriedwithsmallengines Ama*** has decent Endoscopes for good price that could be used to show the inside of the chamber
You beat me to your comment!!! LOL
😂😂😂😂😂
T-shirt material
There's no need to appoligize. This is what I consider learning. Thank you for the awesome detailed work. You taught this lawnmower owner quite a bit for chainsaw motor repair.
Everything I see gets a dry and wet compression test and an
Endoscope viewing.
Good find on the carb issue.
Also, I feel your pain with customers not revealing the true history.
I have had 15-20 of these and some have the problem and others do not. I have suspected that some of mine have had crank bearings that might have been in not so great condition.
I've got a vintage McCulloch from the 70's with an alloy case which I serviced and cleaned everything. It starts up no problem with plenty of compression and runs fine until it gets hot then won't start again until it cools down. Do you know what could be causing it to do that please? The mixture is right and i used leaded petrol yet it still does that. Its a shame because other than being quite heavy its a great saw for small jobs. Great video. You have earned my subscription 👌👍💚💛❤️
Mine too
I have a mid-1990's 025 and it's the same way, these are high-compression saws and casual owners coming from box store Poulan and Craftsman chainsaws always complain about starting a Stihl. I also have a MS391 and with its decomp valve it's probably a little easier to pull over vs my 025.
You have my sympathy when a non working or poorly working machine turns up on my bench too often I jump to conclusions "I know what that is" and somehow it never is and only eventually do you discover that the machine which "was running perfectly last week" has not worked for years. Well done.
Thank you!
I have an MS250, it has done years of work and still goes well. It has a cylinder decompression valve to help with starting, I wondered if this saw didn't have that.
Great video, thank you from NZ.
Thanks for sharing! It would be great to see you start the saw after replacing the carb. Barrie Ont.
It's going to sit overnight and I will film a re-start tomorrow :)
@@marriedwithsmallengines awesome
I can’t imagine your SKILL level to accomplish this task. I only change the spark plug when mine is hard to start. Very good video on tracking down the problem and fixing it. Thanks for sharing 😊.
Air filter removal tip: with finger tips on top of filter, roll filter back toward rear handle
Thanks
I went from a Stihl 024 saw( from about 1985) which always ran very well but parts became hard to find about 20 years later. Got an MS250 and it was just as bad as in the video. Gave it away and bought an MS261 pro saw (I used pro saws for trail maintenance and knew the difference) and it has no problems at all. Compression release make it easy to start, 4 hp vs3 (250 saw) for same weight, much less vibration, need service far less often. You get what you pay for, in my book.
The MS261's are great saws! :)
It can be so easy to overlook the little things. I’ve done it myself a few times, so no sense in beating yourself up over it. All you can do is learn from it and bank it for next time. Though, I was thinking just like you - flywheel key sheared or wrong air gap on the coil. It is never good when someone who thinks they have an idea to fix something does so instead of taking it to someone who knows how to do so!
Thanks for being here!
I have owned one for yrs and after I learned how to start it, love it.
As a Stihl technician and owner of an MS 250 I can tell you they are a very hard to pull saw. I sold a lot of them but always cautioned the customer that most women, elderly or folks with a bad shoulder should consider a different model. If you don’t pull it like you mean it it will jerk starter handle out of your hand. I always thought that a larger diameter rope pulley would help this.
A decompression switch would help more.
@rickringler5021. See, if you had been my dealer I would still be a Stihl customer. Too many of them just don’t give a crap when a homeowner walks in to buy.
I had a little 015AV and loaned it to a friend. Never gave me any trouble but for him it locked up. Took me 10 sec to fig out what he did. Early model saws used a stronger gas / oil mix, whereas newer modern saws are like 50:1 I believe. Some old timers still use the 25:1 mix. Might have something to do with the carbon buildup.
Very organized shop. You seem knowledgeable on 2 and 4 cycle equipment. Helpful content enjoy watching you're channel.
Wow, thank you!
Like you said, this is very common with the MS250's. The compression can get very high after breaking in. This happened to mine. The dealer could not do anything to improve on it either. I put an elasto start rope on it and it helps if you pull it one click out before pulling hard on it. The first click is the one that jerks your arm the most. Lots of info about this problem online.
We installed an elasto start grip on this MS250 as well, it did help, and your absolutely right on that starting procedure!
Love to see a skilled Lady in Traditional Labor trades ❤🎉❤
Thank you so much for the kind comment!
@@marriedwithsmallengines I will second his comment. Bravo!
Just a hobbyist small engine tech guy's observations: The gasoline seems to have an inordinate amount of dye color, like possibly the premix oil is at 25:1 and if this engine has been run on a regime of this oil heavy premix by guess, I would also assume that there is considerable carbon buildup in the cylinder. Did you pull the muffler and inspect the exhaust port and the piston top for carbon deposits?
"You're basically fishing around in the dark, trying not to put your tool in the wrong hole." It was an accident. I swear it was.
Come on man !!!!
A LADY here !!! 🤣😔
Erica, you are without a doubt one of the best Stihl mechanics I have ever watched . Dave in Mo
I wish before I bought my 250 that I knew it would be hard to start too. I'm 71 years old and it's hard for me to pull.
Yes, one of the tougher saws to start. I can start an 038 but barely have the upper strength to start the MS250 on a good day.
Great video!
I opened my 250's muffler up abut 3 times larger and run it with the cover off, and absolutely run the piss out of it.....
I know its not good for the saw, but i do this with all my saws..... and run them hard.
My new 400 was disappointing but after openning the muffler up, and a 24" bar is now acceptable performance.
And of course I adjust the 250's carb. I dislike my 400's auto tune!
So, did the new carb solve the kickback problem when starting? I could see how the old carb running rich would cause a carbon build up on the piston and combustion chamber, thereby increasing the compression enough to cause hard starting. It would seem like the only cure for that would be to pull the cylinder and scrape off the carbon.
The new carb solved the problem. The old carb was over fueling - which explains why I seen smoke. I don't know the history on this saw, and I'm not even sure if my customer bought it new or if he bought it used. All I know is that someone had their hands on that carb trying to compensate for something. Sometimes I feel like the chainsaw investigator trying to put all the missing pieces together Haha
@@marriedwithsmallengines Thanks for your reply. The old repair shop adage is that they charge more if the customer already worked on it themselves.
Thank you! You are a good instructor. I have one of these saws and now I have some idea of what to check.
At 11:53, she is right. When you are fishing around in the dark, you don't want to put your tool in the wrong hole.
😂
Sometimes it's a pleasant surprise and it slips into either quite nicely period and in either case yo get the job done
The kick back on my MS250 was "solved" by pulling slow until the piston met compression load. Then a quick pull always avoided the kickback. Solved the problem. Didn't do anything with the limiter caps or any carb adjustments.
Wow, good video. I thought for sure it would be the flywheel key. Learn a lot. Question; would a couple of tanks of engineered fuel and high rpm’s help get rid of the carbon from the piston?
Hi, Thanks for stopping in! I can't say for sure if that would clean it up, but I do know for sure that this saws needs to be worked hard to clean itself out! I don't think its used enough and I don't think he runs it full out. It probably never gets hot enough to burn the carbon off.
I learned the cold start procedure has to be closely followed. Full choke, pull until it fires once, half choke until it starts then choke off. It does flood very easily. Once warm, it’ll start all day with one pull.
I always run ethanol free gas through the saw before storing it. And if it’s months before using it again, I drain it. Saves a lot of problems.
Hi ,1st time viewer.I like your video,it is very informative.Might i suggest 2 things to enhance them? A glass BEAKER for the fuel exam,so WE can see the water or particles and a testlong or other brand inexpensive bore scope or endoscope for your cylinder exams. oh and maybe a compression tester.This is just stuff that as your looking at them ,we can also see what you mean.Your explanations are good and if we can actually see it at the same time as you then great.I'm subbing because now you and Bree at chickcanic are bringing viewers tools to help us get ready for summer.thanks
Yes, all great ideas! I will order some new tools to add to my arsenal! :)
WOW! My old climbing saw 009L can pull my arm off if it will even pull. All systems EXCEPT the carb are fine. Thx for the tip. Even the MS261 without the comp release pushed in pulls easier than the 009.
Now onto the carb thx to your work. I had to go with a gift Husky 338XPT for a tiny saw. Excellent job.