Triple-T #82: Hot salt bluing / blackening for knives
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2024
- In today's Triple-T (tools, tips and talk) #82, I'll be demonstrating how to do both hot bluing and hot blackening with hot salts! (links below)
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#tyrellknifeworks
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Let me know if you have any questions about this process. It can be a great addition to your knife making toolbox!
Thank you for doing this video.
Have you ever tried blackening, preheat treat? I wonder how the black holds up to the heat treat process.
Well do always ask for help in discord . When I get all the stuff I need going to practice first 😂
@@chrisweller81 Hit me up if you have questions when you do it! 👍🏻
@@chrisweller81 🤘
I've used paste bluing and get the same results on polished steel. Only takes a few minutes, 1 minute per cycle, but the blackening is very cool. Curious though, does the salt bluing hold up like on firearms? Or does it wear off faster?
In the course of my misspent youth I worked in two gun stores; the gunsmiths ALWAYS sent their hot blueing out, never did it themselves. As you clearly pointed out, there are several reasons for that, and I've not been tempted to hot blue any of my work. Haven't thought about the blackening technique, so another thank you for increasing my knowledge of options.
The bluing is a bit more of a fancy thing you wouldn’t use as much but the blackening, in my opinion, is the really cool one. It’s also easier. 👍
Gun bluing is different than the hot salt bluing that was featured in this video. With gun bluing, you're actually intentionally rusting the steel for protection. Also if you don't oil down a blued gun, it will rust to the point that it may not function well. (Ask me how I know this.)
@@Asmith-1111 Yeah, I've got a Browning T-Bolt that was made with a walnut stock that was cured in something very salty, for some reason, so where it touches the barrel it rusts! Evidently a common problem with these old rifles.
@@brysonalden5414older T bolts had salt cured wood stocks that ended up destroying the finish on the metal
There were a few strong warnings to all of us working with guns. Several included how painful and straight up deadly those acid mixtures are. And the last one was they said most people during the cold war in the main gun factory of my country worked for 20 years. If you started at 20 you died around 40 and it you started at 37 you died around 57. Took about 20 years for the accumulation of chemicals to cause health complications. This is why people rarely blue anymore. I will never touch that shit. If i want something blued that is not too critical i heat it then out bath it. Otherwise cerakote and other techniques work well enough.
Thank you. I've been looking for a true blackening process for a knife for a long time. I believe you have shown me what I was looking for.
It’s a pretty cool process. I’ve down the blackening process on a blade that’s currently available on my website. 👍. Thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and making this tips videos, I learned knifemaking thanks to TH-cam and I apreciate you take a time to explain this kind of things to others! Thanks Denis!!
I’m happy to pass on the knowledge. I also learned everything on TH-cam! Thanks for watching
I’m gonna get into this right away just been waiting on someone to share some insight on the process and hear it is! Thanks Dennis!!
I’m happy it was timely and informative! 👍. Thanks for watching
A huge thank you for sharing your knowledge and passion ! I m a young french knife maker and i learned a lot by watching your videos ! I love the blackening process and i will surely try that asap !
Thank you again my friend.
Best regard from south of France.
Laurent
I’m glad it was helpful, Laurent! Try it out and send me some pics for Viewer Knives. 👍
Excellent video, Denis! You explained the processes so well, that I am fully confident that I could be successful as well! Thanks for sharing my brother! 💯😎👍🏻🔨🔥🗡️
Give it a try some time, Bob! It’s a cool process. 👍
Great video Denis, thank you for sharing your experience. See you soon
Thanks for watching, see you at Blade!
Woohoo!!! I have been looking for info about this subject. Thank you so much.
I’m glad it was helpful, Cody! Thanks for watching
Another great video! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching, Stephen!
Hola genio ! , excelente tu forma de explicar los procesos y describir los productos , miro todos tus videos , le das un ritmo que los hace muy entretenidos .
Un saludo desde Patagonia Argentina !
¡Gracias por mirar! Soy consciente de que.
super informative! definitely gonna try the blackening in the future!
Give it a shot, Daniel! It's a really cool process!
Give it a shot, Daniel! It's a really cool process!
Great Job on explaining . Thank You
Thanks for watching, Robert!
Really nice, very well explained, thank you very much
Thanks for taking a look, Masaru!
Most Excellent Demo, like I was there with you.
I’m glad it was helpful, Jason!
Very cool video. A long handle cup will be useful for adding water to the blackening solution... Thank you for the demonstration and explanation!
Yeah I long ladel would work. I just didn’t want to ruin one of my wife’s spoons. 😜
@@TyrellKnifeworks lol. Nope... Get your own. Don't start a tool war with the wife. You will loose! A steel tube or some pipe with a bottom plug and a stick welded/bolted to it will do... ;)
Thanks for this.
Thanks for watching, Mike.
OK iased the question on you silver katana build, THANKS FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE!❤
I see you found it! 😉. Thanks for watching, Andy.
@@TyrellKnifeworks YOU ARE WELCOME!
Thank You - Great info!!!
Thanks for watching, David!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for taking a look. 👍
I have been trying to find a good BLACK finish to put on the guard & pommel of a Scottish dirk I made a while ago with copper inlay. I’m very hopeful that this will fit the bill for me. Thank you SO much for this information!
I’m glad it’s helpful. I’m a huge fan of the hot salts for blackening so give that a try! Thanks for watching
Thanks!
Thanks for watching, Pete!
Yes yes thank you learned so much your the best
Thanks for watching, brother!
awesome! Hey Tyrell, something I would love to watch is a video on water quenching if u are so inclined!
Zero interest. There is no point quenching in water these days. It’s just not consistent enough and there’s reasons people don’t use water with today’s technology.
Fun stuff!
Thanks for watching, Matt!
@@TyrellKnifeworks You Betcha! Don't be spilling mineral oil in your salt baths now.
@@mcrich1978 😬
Thanks for walking us through this, it's a process I had been wondering about. (Not a metal worker myself, just fascinated by it.) From some of the other comments, I gather there are similar processes for other colors, will you be exploring those as well at some point?
I might explore other finishes at some point. Thanks for watching.
There is frequently some nomenclature overlap on these processes. People sometimes think of nitre bluing (the hot stuff) when someone says "gun bluing." Bluing (or blackening) of firearms is almost always the low temperature process, but is still known as "hot bluing." There are 3 main reasons "hot bluing is the dominant bluing method in the firearms industry: 1) the lower temps won't ruin the temper of a critical part (springs, etc), 2) it's much more durable than nitre bluing, and 3) It's much faster than some of the older processes.
Types or forms of bluing existed long before hot bluing came along. For example, charcoal bluing was used in the early days by Colt and Winchester. It involves packing the parts in charcoal and cooking them at around 800 degrees. Of course this was only done on parts that were either not heat treated, or those where 800+ degree tempering didn't degrade its performance. Charcoal bluing isn't done on hardened parts, such as hammers, springs, etc.
Some makers used case hardening on revolver frames and other small parts that benefit from the process. Cimarron Arms still makes case-hardened frames for some of their revolvers last I checked. This is a process of infusing carbon, boron, and nitrogen into the surface of the metal and then heat treating it to create a very thin layer of hardened steel on the outside. The aesthetics are that the colors are variegated, often with colors of bronze, straw, blues, and purples all swirling in the piece. Hardening the outer surface provides wear resistance.
Rust bluing, also an older process, is still done today as it is the most durable of all the bluing methods. It simply involves using a special rusting agent to form a good layer of red rust on the part (usually in a box where high humidity and warm temps can be maintained). It is then boiled in distilled water which converts the red (Fe2O3) rust to black (Fe3O4) rust. After boiling, the part is "carded", meaning the powdery layer of black rust is brushed off using a very fine, soft wire wheel, leaving a lusterous, smooth black finish. Sometimes, folks will use fine steel wool to card as well. The downside to rust bluing is that it is a slow, time intensive process. It takes multiple cycles (usually 10-12 times) of this rust, boil, card process to get a good, even finish. Also, it doesn't usually work well with highly polished steel. Most rust bluing is done with a 320 grit finish at the finest, so the finished product has a nice sheen, but it is not mirror polished.
Nitre bluing is simply a way of using very hot salt to "heat blue" steel. "Heat bluing" is NOT the same as "hot bluing"...and this is where some of the confusion comes in. Steel oxidizes at different rates as it heats up, so this is why when a torch or some heat source is applied, it goes through a range of colors. The colors change because the thickness of the oxide layer increases with the temperature. You can heat blue steel with a torch if you have a steady hand and can heat the part evenly. The purpose of the nitre salts is simply to provide an even heat source that heats the entire part to the same temp avoiding differential coloring. The downside to heat bluing is that, unlike hot bluing or rust bluing, it is not at all durable. As mentioned in the video, if you nitre blue something and don't get the color you want, just buff it off. In the firearms world, nitre bluing is almost exclusively for small parts, like screws, etc just to provide some coloration. It is a poor choice of finish for frames, receivers, barrels, etc as it will wear off in short order. Also, heat bluing provides little to no rust resistance.
I'm making a 1911 and trying to decide on which type of bluing to use on the frame, barrel and slide. I'm interested in the hot 280 degrees and the rust bluing.
Which do you think would be the best choice for a classic style 1911?
Since it's a personal gun I don't mind the extra time involved in the rust bluing process if it's better.
I'm guessing I can plug the barrel to keep from rusting the bore.
Any idea where I can buy small amounts of the chemicals for both processes?
@@actionjksn Not sure of a place to get small amounts. Hot bluing salts (there are many brands and types, such as Brownell's Oxynate No7) is sold in 40lb containers for about $210. You'll need a proper container, preferably stainless steel and a way to heat it and maintain temp, so you'll need a good quality high temp thermometer. A few degrees one way or the other can make a difference. You also need to educate yourself on the process. Not really recommended for a beginner, at least not on an entire gun.
Rust bluing is easier and cheaper, but time consuming (the reason it costs more to have the job done professionally). A bottle of Pilkington Classic rust blue formula is about $65. Plenty of "how to" videos on YT to show you the process. Although not strictly required, a humid box helps speed up the process some. You can make one pretty easy.
As for the difference between them, rust bluing is the more durable finish between the two. However, with rust blue, you won't get a shiny finish (if that's your goal), it's more of a satin finish. If you are looking to polish the gun and want a very high gloss blue, then hot blue is what you want.
this was interesting for sure, i only learned to blacken iron/steel with oil.
This is much more durable and consistent than an oil darkening.
The bluing salt will be a nitrate/nitrite blend like that used for tempering carbon steel.
It will spit like fury if anything damp gets in it.
Most heat treaters let the work pre heat beside the pot before transferring into the salt.
The salt decomposes at about 500-550 oC giving off corrosive brown fumes.
If it fumes brown turn the heat off and run away.
The brown fumes can kill you.
If kept below this temperature it is quite tame and has a faint sweetish smell.
I have no idea what the blacking is but would guess at caustic soda (lye), sodium nitrate (saltpetre) and water going from your temperature limits.
This is similar to a brew used in the gold and silver industry for heat treating .
It does tend to get everywhere and rust everything over time.
It seems to walk across surfaces slowly absorbing water as it does and corroding merrily.
Both can be cleaned up with hot water and are relatively low toxicity though so it's not all bad.
Much better than old style case hardening which uses cyanide and is very hazardous and definitely not for home or hobby use.
Have fun along the way.
Thanks for watching and adding some info. 👍
If it fumes brown like that, is it decomposing into nitric acid?
@@mitchellfield9213
Yes it is turning into nitric acid and it will kill you in a nasty way.
You don't need to get that hot for bluing.
It will have a faint sweetish smell when all is good but will still spit and stick to you so be careful.
The salt is the same as tempering salt for carbon steel basically.
Nice video. You might also enjoy trying rust bluing. No caustic or high temperatures required. just lots of carding! can also be accomplished using minimal equipment.
What you are referring to is basically cold-bluing. Compared to hot bluing, it’s finish is very poor and not very lasting. It certainly is easier though.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I think we might be talking about two different processes. When I think of "cold bluing" it doesn't involve any boiling or conversion process, as "rust bluing" requires. If you have the time, Mark Novak on his Anvil episode 0109 describes the process that I am thinking of. Also Larry Potterfield on the Midway USA channel has an episode where he rust blues a set of Damascus shotgun barrels. Not sure if any of this would be applicable or even desired for knife making, however the process is interesting none the less. Color case hardening using bone charcoal is another interesting process with very attractive results, however it requires some rather specific and expensive equipment that puts it out of reach for most hobbyists. I think a Damascus blade combined with CCH bolster, pommel and figured walnut handle would be similar in visual concept to an old classic Parker side by side shotgun.
Interesting !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for watching, Jerry!
Hi Tyrrel - thanks for sharing. I generally do blackening in weapons and knife parts with NaOH / KNO3/H2O , proportion 3x2x1 in weight and temperatures between 135 to 140 °C - it works marvellously with same procedures.
Never tried the blueing salt process.
Question - are you using Fahrenheit or Centigrades?
The temperatures are in Fahrenheit that I referred to. The salts I use are all pre-mixed so they may be close to what you listed but I can’t be sure. Thanks for watching.
شكرا على مشاركتك هذه المعلومات خاصة انك تترجم هذه المقاطع 🙏
أنا سعيد أنه كان مفيدا! شكرا للمشاهدة.
Could u blue/black a carbon damascus ring? And would it protect it from rusting on the inner part where the finger makes contact woth the ring?
Yes you could certainly blue or blacken a ring. It will slow the oxidation but it won’t make it rust proof and will only slow it. Damascus rings really need to be coated in something (like epoxy) to protect the user. Thanks for watching
If you put the part, for the blueing, in the oven and heat it, to evaporate the water, could you take it straight to the salts, considering they would still be hotter than the part?
Yeah you could if you don’t have a compressor.
Great video, thank you! Have you ever used the UltraBlak liquid version?
No, I’ve only used the powder form that you gave to mix yourself. Thanks for watching, Brian.
Hi from Panamá, central América, i would like to know if the black finish is like black chrome finish.
It's certainly not the same process, but it does come out very shiny and still jet black. Thanks for watching.
I guess you are taking requests…thanks so much for what you do! Always helpful and exactly what a knife maker wants to see. How durable is the blackening finish vs. FC? Would you do a whole blade with it?
It’s a bit more durable than ferric. You can buff it if it’s without compound and it won’t come off. Most importantly, it’s shiny not dull like FC. Thanks for watching, Jason.
Great video. My question would be is the hot blueing better than the cold blue you can buy?
It’s WAY better. If you try both you’ll see the hot bluing (which is actually blackening) is far inferior to the hot blackening. It’s streaky and gives a full finish.
Looks incredible, I'm gonna do this but add turkey drippings since I'm smoking my bird. Smoked Giblet Gravy lol. Might be good?
Ha, just don’t drop anything in molten salt. You’ll be the one cooked! 😜. Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks lmbo
Was watching my save for later videos, a recipe video is before your video. I was typing my comment and hit send but must of already switched to your video right as I hit send lmbo
What if you’re bluing something larger with much heavier mass in the NitreBlue? Submerging the piece might cause the temperature to fall as the material starts absorbing a lot of heat from the salts. Since the temperature control is so critical, how do you account for that? Would you first have to warm up the piece that’s being blued?
No , the process takes place pretty quickly. Plus it is generally used for accent pieces. So you won't have any problems. It's not that precise of a process. It's very simple. The key also is to polish the pieces. The better the polish the better the color stands out.
Ron covered it pretty well. 👍
Does the contrast of 10xx and 15N20 damascus show up well with the blackening? Do you need to etch first?
Most of the blackening I do is on mild steel. It shouldn’t be etched first and it does better if it’s buffed and polished. Damascus doesn’t contrast well since it blackens both, but it still looks cool. I’ve done the bluing over Damascus and it looks really cool.
Last question, ever see royers black fittings for his sword? It’s this deep black. I want I thought he used brownell salts but now I thought it was boiling. I have to rewatch would the black do it?
Brownells has other salts for blackening and that’s what Kyle uses. It’s similar to the UltraBlak I use. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks I’ve been looking for months but kept getting the wrong salts your video helped a ton
is there a good source for the blackening compound that is more affordably priced or doesnt charge so much to ship?
All the others I’ve seen are comparatively priced. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks just kills me that their shipping doubles the cost of the material.
I'm looking into using this to reblue firearms and it seems very promising, even better than regular bluing
Awesome video, sold me on the blackening for one of my projects. What are those buckets you use in the video made from?
Which buckets are you referring to? The metals pots were just cheap stainless steel pots from Walmart. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I was referring to the buckets you had the hot blackening solution in. I just didn’t want to get something that would contaminate the solution. Thanks!
@@CampJ95 the chemicals came in those plastic containers. 👍
Could I make a quench oil with vegetable oil and diesel mixed together to the right viscosity.?
Why? Engineered quench oil is a small cost compared to the rest of knife making. Just invest in the right oil. (Motor oil is also full of additives that are NOT good for you). Thanks for watching
Do you think you could hot blue my truck? Appreciate the information. Good step by step.
If it’s a matchbox truck maybe. 😜. Thanks for watching
I have a question. It's not related to this video but how wide should I make the hidden tang for a sword ?
The answer to this question is always “as wide as possible”. I would take the desired width of your handle and subtract 3/8” or there abouts. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks I appreciate the advice
Interesting but what do u think of Brownells cold blue?
I'm not a fan of it at all. It's really streaky going on and you get a mediocre finish that doesn't penetrate very well. I guess compared to other cold blueing its ok. Hot bluing is definitely a much better process. Thanks for watching, Darrell.
Lot of good information thanks but I’m never having soup at your house
Haha, thanks for watching, Barry
I wanted to ask u what portable band saw blades u use
I just use the dewalt kind. I think they are 20 tpi but I’m saying that from memory. Thanks for watching
I’ve been using Milwaukee for titanium I can’t seem to find any carbide tooth for the portaban and am sick of flying through blades but thank u oh u wouldn’t know if this Process works on titanium would u?
سلام.خوبی. ببخشید من متوجه نشدم ترکیب توی ظرف در حال جوش فقط آب و نمک بود؟ ممنون
این یک ماده شیمیایی خاص است. "آبی" یک ماده شیمیایی نمک مخصوص است که آن را حرارت می دهید تا ذوب شود. «سیاه» نمک مخصوص دیگری (متفاوت) است که با آب مخلوط میکنید و حرارت میدهید. پیوندهایی به مواد شیمیایی در توضیحات ویدیو وجود دارد. ممنون از نگاهت، امید.
@@TyrellKnifeworks ممنون بخاطر وقتی که گزاشتی و توضیحات
Both methods are called "bluing" regardless of the actual color. The term "blackening" doesn't have a specific definition beyond "to make black." "Blackening" could be done with a Sharpie or a can of Rust-Oleum for example. In the context of metal finishes the term is usually used for "oil blackening," which is heating the metal and then submerging or coating it with oil, which turns black due to the heat burning off most of the oil and leaving a carbonized (black) layer of oil on the surface (it's the same process that turns cast iron skillets black, known as "seasoning" in that context).
The method that uses a mixture of salts and water at about 285°F is called "hot caustic bluing," or sometimes "hot bluing," or "hot salt bluing," or "caustic bluing."
The method that uses molten salt at about 600°F is called "nitre bluing." It isn't very common, so the vast majority of the time when people talk about bluing they are talking about hot caustic bluing (because that's by far the most common method of commercial bluing), which is actually black in appearance. Nearly every blued firearm made in the 20th and 21st centuries was blued with the hot caustic bluing method (a mixture of salts and water at about 285°F). When nitre bluing is used on guns it's only used for minor things. It can't be used for e.g., barrels, frames, slides, cylinders, etc., because it would ruin the heat treating.
The earliest method of bluing is "rust bluing," which is also black.
A blued finish (either hot caustic or rust blued) is sometimes called a "black oxide" finish, usually when it's done to nuts, bolts, etc., or when it's done to a gun that has a sandblasted finish instead of a polished finish.
Thanks for watching
I wonder if the results would be different with sea salt and sea water
Not really advisable, it would contaminate the mix and cause streaks. Thanks for watching
Are all your temps in °F or °C?
All temps are in Fahrenheit. Sorry, I should have mentioned that. Thanks for watching.
I looked into hot bluing for parts but ended up opting for parkerizing due to higher durability finish. But this is still good info to have.
Parkerizing will give you certain colors. You can't obtain the blues and purples though. I tend to use the blackening for parts the most.
@@TyrellKnifeworks absolutely. Sorry if my comment was poorly written. I meant purely for a black finish. Nitre bluing and hot blue does look great with the colors.
@@kieranklein2527 the hot salts for blackening are pretty durable. As durable as a coffee etch. 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworkswhy is one more black and also how did u get that jet black if u don’t mind me asking
@@Brandon_obs_ls did you watch the video? It’s all in there
You think you could stone wash after?
I’m sure you could. Try it. Thanks for watching
The cleaning solution is equal to automatic dishwasher soap and boil for ten minutes then rinse well and submers in a good water displacement oil
Thanks for the tip, Bill.
I'm watching for research.I need a mirror finish black for knifes
The hot blackening salt will be what you need. I’ve done it on blades and it turns out well and nice and shiny. Thanks for watching.
how would you do a blade like a njna sward
You’d need a pretty long tank. There are other ways to darken a blade though. Checkout my katana build from a few month ago. Thanks for watching, Carter.
@@TyrellKnifeworks ok thank you very munch and happy hoildays to you and the family
With Nitre BLUING you can check the color . Take the part out and look until you achieve the color you desire.. gold , red and the blue. Dip it in the water and cool it off . If you go back in your correct it must be dry. Hot salts bluing.... putting copper or brass in it can contaminate the salts. As a gunsmith we even remove the brass bead sights on a firearm if possible. But if not they are small enough to usually not create a problem. More than that and you can contaminate your salts. Which will ruin the finish. We use a caustic soap powder. Very small amount in hot water. Simply work the part back and forth about a minute. You should already have the parts cleaned and oil free. Acetone has an oil base and we use alcohol to wipe down the part before going in the soap. From the soap place the part in COLD WATER (the colder the better..you can add ice to the cold water). Then after a good dip in the cold water place it into the salts. In about 3 to 5 minutes. Lift the piece out of the salts and immediately place it into the cold water...or it will rust / oxidize immediately... you will know then if it's done or not. If not go back in the salts for another couple of minutes... repeat the process and remove it and directly into the cold water. It should be done... it will not get any bluer . Then place it in boiling water... a flat piece of steel only needs a good rinse...This stops the process and gets the salts off then dip it into the oil... we use regular Remington gun oil... One thing I didn't see you do is stir your hot salts before lighting up the burner. This is important, stir it up and break it up gently or you will develop hot spots.. stir gently as it heats up to the boiling point... the boiling point differs based on where you live... IF IT BOILS TO SOON... BEFORE THE PROPER TEMPERATURE ADD SALT.. STIR GENTLY AND ADD UNTIL THE SALTS HAVE A SLOW STEADY BOIL AT THE PROPER TEMPERATURE. IF THEY GO ABOVE THE PROPER BOILING TEMPERATURE.. ADD WATER CAREFULLY AND GENTLY TO REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE TO THE CORRECT TEMPERATURE. Then place your parts in the solution. The salts should hold at proper temperature for the entire time to blue the parts. Unless you spend to much time in the salts. Once you remove the parts... Use the same process to set the temperature of the salts at the proper boiling temperature for where you live. THEN TURN OFF YOUR HEAT SOURCE. IF YOU CONTROL THIS AND DO IT CORRECTLY. WHEN YOU NEXT USE THE SALTS IT WILL PROPERLY BOIL AT THE PROPER TEMPERATURE..IT HAS A MEMORY. DONE CORRECTLY AND IF YOU DON'T CONTAMINATE THE SALTS. THOSE SALTS WILL LAST A LONG TIME AND ONLY GET BETTER.
They is a full time Gunsmith school in Colorado. BLUING is part of the curriculum and as a student you will do a lot of it.
Thanks for the tips, Ron.
@@TyrellKnifeworks no problem.. hot salts bluing is a lot of fun. Next look into Belgium bluing and Browning. Process is a little longer but not that much. The finish is great and just adds another option for you to use. I have blued a lot of knives. It goes hand in hand with matching to a nice firearm finish. Good luck and keep building the beautiful knives you build.
What happened with the video about the journeyman test?
If you mean the other journeyman knives, I just got in a hurry on the last one and didn’t want to video it. New video coming this Sunday though. When I do the overview video on Blade show you’ll see all the knives I’m bringing including the JS knives. 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks for replying, really like your work, it inspire me to try to make my own knives some day.
But I meant the performance test where you had to bend the knife with the master Smith. I saw once, but can't find again.
@@Braga_Rcb the performance test video is still up there. Check my Journeyman playlist.
Can you black a knife and then maybe etch it to reveal a hamon at the same time??
You can’t blacken then etch, it must be etched first, then blackened. I’ve etched them blackened Damascus, it looks pretty cool.
Does it work on a stainless steel ?
I haven't tried, but I suspect it won't. At least not that well. I can't say for sure though.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you :)
I read that 1045 tempers at 750 i think 700 wonder how it would hold up in hot salts
1045 isn’t good for knives. Hammers and axes maybe but it won’t harden enough for knives. Thanks for watching, Christopher.
@@TyrellKnifeworks sorry I was thinking of my hammers being black. I want to make mild steel shiny black Will the black slat work?
@@christopherconkright1317 Sure, it'll work. It works well on hardened or mild steel.
So what is the oil? Mineral? Grape seed? Used motor? Linseed?
It’s just mineral oil. Thanks for watching.
turkey fryer #america
🦍
Thanks for links to muve. I have a kitchen knife that has Damascus patterns. And it looks real, and it was $ 38 in dual currency. The problem is, I can't walk well at home. I was also laser-sharpened, but I am unsatisfied when it was new, today it is 3 years old, I care about it very much and I am sorry, I am asking for advice and I will also contact you on instagram. I greet you from Poland.
Sorry, I can pretty much guarantee that your blade is NOT damascus at $38. It would cost 10x that at the very minimum. Realistically, a damascus kitchen knife is in the $500-$1500+ range. It's probably laser etched and made of cheap stainless steel. Thanks for watching.
Note to self: Don't use hot salts in leaky shop :)
Ha, no, that would be bad! 😜
Is this how Shurap colors his knives
He’s a wizard for sure! Thanks for watching
Ref
Thanks for watching
« It’s very dangerous ! »
Much more than you think ( if you do). Have you ever heard about Celsius and Fahrenheit ?
I have no idea what your comment means but it sounds pretty snippy for no reason
@@TyrellKnifeworks No idea about Celsius and Fahrenheit ? Well you say it's dangerous and it looks like indeed. Many people ( not all professionals or very smart people from all over the world) look for blackening metal. So telling them : "temperature must not be over 350 degrees"... between 350 degree Celsius and 350 degree Fahrenheit there's a huge and highly dangerous gap. You never say Celsius or Farenheit in the video.
@vincentement if you actually do this, how about you read the instructions on the salt you use. Stop being a dumbass and responding to a video that’s clearly talking about Fahrenheit.
First comment?
No
"He asked, knowing full well he was first......" =D
Thanks for watching and interacting!
You left a lot of danger out of that one. I have never used the nighter blue. However I do use bluing salts all the time you forgot to tell people about a few of the chemicals like lie and you told people that they could use welding gloves but if you actually use your welding gloves for the blackings process you would not have welding gloves anymore you would have a pile of jelly and if they were to breathe either one of those coughing soda with immediately Scorch their lungs throat and mouth having running water nearby as well as baking soda is absolutely mandatory and having yourself tightly caged off from the rest of the world is also mandatory because even a finch getting in your way would be way too much. Moreover if they choose to mix their own chemicals they have a few shipping problems that will have to be settled with the batf and E specifically the E problem not that you can get just anybody to ship you any of those bottles I believe highly caustic highly corrosive and highly volatile and of course poisonous. Those will be the labels on their packages and they must absolutely pick them up or if you are lucky enough to have somebody drop them off you must absolutely be there to sign for them. The Niners blue actually scares me the most because yes you still need to have pH balance and you still need running water except that now you're working at between four and six hundred degrees or was that 7 not to mention it is a hydrous making the first melt all kinds of interesting and any melt you do in the rain oh boy!!! Above and beyond all of that because they are dangerous chemicals you need a lock or to lock them up in after you properly sealed them back up and anybody working with out rubber gloves and an apron is already in trouble I personally I personally suggest gloves that go at least up to your elbows preferably halfway up Pastor elbow to your shoulder lamped in place not tied together because you want to be able to get the gloves off as fast as possible.
So what your saying is, This can’t be done on the stove top while cooking dinner…🤣🤣
There’s a difference between can and should! 😜. Thanks for watching.
2nd comment?
Thanks for watching!
i thought you were making perfectly square shuriken & got WAY too excited =/
Haha, no not this time. Thanks for watching
6½ minutes in and nothing's happening. :/
What did you expect? This is a learning video about the hot salt process. Just demonstrating this won’t teach you anything.
@@TyrellKnifeworks
I guess I felt the title was misleading. It's going over and over the very basics still by that point. Maybe the title could say, "101" or the classic, "for dummies". Anyway, from a consumer perspective, that's my feedback. At 6½ minutes and nothing learned I switched it off.