a mention on the light you use, the angle it's at and it's brightness might help, also how you scan the blade to ensure all the counter scratches are gone.
@@opa_plays_mw5318 I have big overhead lights for filming so it’s something a normal maker would use. Any light works, you just have to go an opposite direction each grit and scratches are obvious. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Understood, I use a high power led ring light with a magnifying glass attached and still have to twist and turn the piece around to be absolutely sure I get everything, and I mark them with a sharpie so I don't forget. Loved the part about getting the scratches does not necessarily mean sanding the scratches. btw, spot on.
@@ReignForeverI’m personally not a fan of mirror finishes on blades. If you do want to try it, I think you need to hand sand to 1500 or 2000 before buffing.
All well said. One important tip in my opinion. When grinding with with a certain grid, do not switch to the next finer grid of you still see scratches from the prior courser one.
Good stuff! I took a scrap piece of 3/16 and epoxied leather to the back so I can use the same tool for hard and soft.. I've definitely rolled a tip or 2.. next time I'm gonna try it your way and the deep scratch lines! I've had to explain that people that your not sanding them out.. you are sanding everything down to meet them. Great Stuff! Thanks Obi-Wan .
I do a lot of hand sanding, so my go-to for a 'block' is actually a small piece of board about foot long, 1/4" thick and about inch and a half wide. On one side there's a strip of very thick leather about 5" long and the other side has a 5" strip of G10, about 5mm thick on both and roughly in the middle of the board. That seems to do well for arm and elbow strain and if you need to it'll give you plenty of leverage to get some real power into it + its good for the longer strips to do cross-sanding over your previous cut, or broader strips for things like some of the wider japanese and asian chefs knives. Also pick a good quality sandpaper Most of the stuff like the Rhynowet and 3M is generally very good, buy it in bulk blocks of 25-50 to save per sheet or in long rolls, my personal fav is the SiaWet made in Austria I think and its a really good cutter that will save you a lot of time. So I mostly finish up on belts around 400-600g, then just move over to hand sanding from there, sometimes if I'm not happy with the belt finish I'll go back a grit and re-cut the finish, then start over progressing from there to 800-1000-1200-1500 etc Its hard work, make yourself comfy, get up once in a while for a stretch and just sort of get it done, there's no point in shirking any effort as your work is on the way to being finished and you've already put a lot of effort in. But the real difference between knives at this kind of level between happy-amateur and pro-maker: is that fit and finish and a lot of it is in the hand sanding
Great video, I’m curious as to why you go up to 800 then come back to the 400 with a soft backer? Why not just switch to soft backer after having a consistent 400 at a 45 degree angle then stay on 400 and go straight down the blade?
Ballistol sir. It's the best material for the use you ask! By far the best material, I'e tested everything. Ballistol is what your lookingfor. a drop is enough to apply the thin layer you need. You don't have to put more than that for many reasons. Also, a small bottle of Ballistol, can last literally decades if you know how to use it. most people use way more than it needs, to the point that 80% of the oil, stays on the rug they used to apply it. Always use your fingers to apply it! that way, you can use way less and in the same time, it softens your skin and helps even on small wounds if your hands have any on them. Ballistol is also, what 90% of the time people use WD40 should have used Ballistol instead! WD40 is a chemical solution, not an oil, designed only to "eat" rust. Hope I helped.
I saw a video of a guy that had a machine that moved the knife back and forth so all he had to do was hold the sand paper in a stationary position. What problems would something like that have?
That’s Shurap’s channel most likely. It would be fine up to the last grit. One downside is that all the lines go the same way so it’s hard to tell when you’ve gotten out all the scratches in each grit before moving on.
You just put a piece of leather between your block and your sandpaper so it gives you a softer backing and it will produce cleaner lines. 👍. Thanks for watching
Great tips! As for WD 40,it's a solution designed to help remove rust, it "eats" rust,it is NOT a lubricant oil. it might look similar but it is not. 99% of the times people use WD40 to lubricate for either reducing the friction or maintain a steel from rusting, they should have used BALLISTOL instead. Ballistol not only is made for that uses, but also doesn't harm doesn't damage, your tools. For example, if you keep using WD40 inside a lock, to keep it working smoothly and not rust, because WD40 is a rust remover, thus "eats" will eventually destroy the small parts inside that lock, to the point the lock can not work anymore. I'm a chemist/metallurgist, so I understand that much easier than the common man, but again, dont you realize that, even from they way it smells? WD40 is NOT an oil guys and it's the worst lubricant you could ever use. If you have to release a pair of pliers for example, that don't operate smothly anymore, (because of rust) it's ok to use a couple of drops of WD40 inside, BUT after that, open and close rapidly the pliers and the clean them with a rug. After that, put some real oil inside, like Singer oil, Ballistol etc. Hope this helps people to understand, because all people use that stuff the wrong way.
@@TyrellKnifeworks The best European knife company TRC Knives (best in terms of quality), includes a Ballistol inside the knife box of their high-end knives! Ballistol is more known to "Gun" people, however, there is nothing better for Carbon knives, because it's great for handle materials too. It also works for human skin. It smells great and It's by far my favorite choice for cleaning knives (especially handmade ones like your jewels!)
Thanks for checking out this video. Are there any tips I missed? I know I didn't discuss a knife vise, which is a key tool in my shop. Any others?
a mention on the light you use, the angle it's at and it's brightness might help, also how you scan the blade to ensure all the counter scratches are gone.
@@opa_plays_mw5318 I have big overhead lights for filming so it’s something a normal maker would use. Any light works, you just have to go an opposite direction each grit and scratches are obvious. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Understood, I use a high power led ring light with a magnifying glass attached and still have to twist and turn the piece around to be absolutely sure I get everything, and I mark them with a sharpie so I don't forget.
Loved the part about getting the scratches does not necessarily mean sanding the scratches. btw, spot on.
What are your thoughts on buffing and polishing blades? I have been wanting to try it. Is 600 or 800 grit enough to buff or should I go up to 1000?
@@ReignForeverI’m personally not a fan of mirror finishes on blades. If you do want to try it, I think you need to hand sand to 1500 or 2000 before buffing.
Jesus! The point about the low points and scratches was a revelations to me!?
Thanks so much!!
I’m glad it was helpful! Anything that makes sanding go easier is better right? 😜
I really appreciate your tips, Denis! Thanks!
I’m glad they’re helpful! Thanks for watching
All well said.
One important tip in my opinion. When grinding with with a certain grid, do not switch to the next finer grid of you still see scratches from the prior courser one.
Yup, thanks for watching, Roland!
Good stuff! I took a scrap piece of 3/16 and epoxied leather to the back so I can use the same tool for hard and soft.. I've definitely rolled a tip or 2.. next time I'm gonna try it your way and the deep scratch lines! I've had to explain that people that your not sanding them out.. you are sanding everything down to meet them. Great Stuff! Thanks Obi-Wan .
Thanks for watching, brother!
Perfect timing for me on this video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I’m glad it was helpful, Will! Thanks for watching
Thanks for the tips. Going to 800 then dropping back to 400 makes lots of sense!!! I'll give it a go!!!
I’m glad it was helpful, David!
Thanks for the tips brother!
I’m happy they were helpful. Thanks for watching.
Great tips. Thanks for all the skills you bring to us.
Thanks for watching, Stephen!
Thanks for teaching!
Thanks for following along, I appreciate it! 👍
I do a lot of hand sanding, so my go-to for a 'block' is actually a small piece of board about foot long, 1/4" thick and about inch and a half wide. On one side there's a strip of very thick leather about 5" long and the other side has a 5" strip of G10, about 5mm thick on both and roughly in the middle of the board. That seems to do well for arm and elbow strain and if you need to it'll give you plenty of leverage to get some real power into it + its good for the longer strips to do cross-sanding over your previous cut, or broader strips for things like some of the wider japanese and asian chefs knives.
Also pick a good quality sandpaper
Most of the stuff like the Rhynowet and 3M is generally very good, buy it in bulk blocks of 25-50 to save per sheet or in long rolls, my personal fav is the SiaWet made in Austria I think and its a really good cutter that will save you a lot of time. So I mostly finish up on belts around 400-600g, then just move over to hand sanding from there, sometimes if I'm not happy with the belt finish I'll go back a grit and re-cut the finish, then start over progressing from there to 800-1000-1200-1500 etc
Its hard work, make yourself comfy, get up once in a while for a stretch and just sort of get it done, there's no point in shirking any effort as your work is on the way to being finished and you've already put a lot of effort in. But the real difference between knives at this kind of level between happy-amateur and pro-maker: is that fit and finish and a lot of it is in the hand sanding
Thanks for watching, Kris!
Thanks for the tips. Just starting to hand sand and ai need all the tips I can get :)
Take your time and don’t go up until you get out all the scratches. 👍. Thanks for watching
I knew all of that but good to hear that i doin it right. Thx.
Thanks for watching!
Great video Denis
Thanks for checking it out, Chip!
Kinda nice to see some scratches and low points just to note I did fine on grinding...
Im not quite sure what your comment is saying.
Great sanding tips.
Thanks for watching, Debra!
Great video thanks for the tips
Thanks for watching, Jesus! 🍺
short and sweet
Thanks for watching, Lance!
Great video, I’m curious as to why you go up to 800 then come back to the 400 with a soft backer? Why not just switch to soft backer after having a consistent 400 at a 45 degree angle then stay on 400 and go straight down the blade?
Going to 800 takes out any deep 400 scratches and then going back down puts a consistent satin finish. Thanks for watching
Awesome tips :) what do you thank about the tormek t8 knife sharpener
I’ve never used a Tormek so I can’t say. It’s supposed to be a great sharpener though.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you keep up the awesome videos:)
I really don't know, I learn a lot when I watch your videos
Thanhs for watching, Jeremy! 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks you are very welcome Bro 👍😎
Thank you
I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Bravo!
Thanks for watching!
Any tips to prevent rust when you wanna store a knife for a long time?
Putting a thin coat of wax or mineral oil works well. 👍. Thanks for watching
Wax and oil but also don‘t store the knife in a leather sheath, keep it separate.
Ballistol sir. It's the best material for the use you ask! By far the best material, I'e tested everything. Ballistol is what your lookingfor. a drop is enough to apply the thin layer you need. You don't have to put more than that for many reasons. Also, a small bottle of Ballistol, can last literally decades if you know how to use it. most people use way more than it needs, to the point that 80% of the oil, stays on the rug they used to apply it. Always use your fingers to apply it! that way, you can use way less and in the same time, it softens your skin and helps even on small wounds if your hands have any on them. Ballistol is also, what 90% of the time people use WD40 should have used Ballistol instead! WD40 is a chemical solution, not an oil, designed only to "eat" rust. Hope I helped.
I saw a video of a guy that had a machine that moved the knife back and forth so all he had to do was hold the sand paper in a stationary position. What problems would something like that have?
That’s Shurap’s channel most likely. It would be fine up to the last grit. One downside is that all the lines go the same way so it’s hard to tell when you’ve gotten out all the scratches in each grit before moving on.
@@TyrellKnifeworks that makes good sense. Doesn’t seem to be any shortcuts When it comes to knife making
First! Lol So is it the leather backer with the single direction to finish that eliminates the crossover line?
Yes, I use leather on the very last step to take out all the other scratches and go one direction only. 👍. Thanks for watching, Cole!
Can someone explain what a leather backer is please?
You just put a piece of leather between your block and your sandpaper so it gives you a softer backing and it will produce cleaner lines. 👍. Thanks for watching
Perfect thank you very much!
🦍
Great tips! As for WD 40,it's a solution designed to help remove rust, it "eats" rust,it is NOT a lubricant oil. it might look similar but it is not. 99% of the times people use WD40 to lubricate for either reducing the friction or maintain a steel from rusting, they should have used BALLISTOL instead. Ballistol not only is made for that uses, but also doesn't harm doesn't damage, your tools.
For example, if you keep using WD40 inside a lock, to keep it working smoothly and not rust, because WD40 is a rust remover, thus "eats" will eventually destroy the small parts inside that lock, to the point the lock can not work anymore. I'm a chemist/metallurgist, so I understand that much easier than the common man, but again, dont you realize that, even from they way it smells? WD40 is NOT an oil guys and it's the worst lubricant you could ever use. If you have to release a pair of pliers for example, that don't operate smothly anymore, (because of rust) it's ok to use a couple of drops of WD40 inside, BUT after that, open and close rapidly the pliers and the clean them with a rug. After that, put some real oil inside, like Singer oil, Ballistol etc. Hope this helps people to understand, because all people use that stuff the wrong way.
I'll have to checkout Ballistol and see what that's all about. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks The best European knife company TRC Knives (best in terms of quality), includes a Ballistol inside the knife box of their high-end knives! Ballistol is more known to "Gun" people, however, there is nothing better for Carbon knives, because it's great for handle materials too. It also works for human skin. It smells great and It's by far my favorite choice for cleaning knives (especially handmade ones like your jewels!)
Sheesh
Thanks for watching
:”