Great info! Most of the people complaining about not forging to shape are just telling on themselves. If they knew what they’re doing, they would know better. Just like the guys who say stock removal isn’t as good quality as forged. We’re not using ancient steel that needs to be forged to compact the layers and get rid of impurities.
Really great video! The rule of thirds makes a lot of sense. I'm actually about to "weld" a few combinations of steels inside a HT Oven and create a diffusion bond, then perhaps draw out some of those pieces and cut out some knives out of them later on. I don't have a press and it seems worth it to do it this way. The rule of thirds will help me figure out how to construct this project properly, cheers!
As soon as it cools off some I'm going to fire up the forge and give this a shot. I was about to buy a press but I decided to get a boat motor instead. I guess it's hammer time. Thanks for the advice 👍
What i like to do with gomai or sanmai constructions is roughly grinding to my core steel with an anglegrinder after forgewelding and then beveling and forging to shape. This ensures i have my core on the edge everywhere.
Yes that is certainly advisable on any layered construction after forging. I even etch it before surface grinding in case I need to recenter it a bit. Thanks for watching.
Ive done 2 san mai knives and Im working on my third. Pretty surprised theyve all came out perfect so far, even though Im self taught with no experience forge welding/laminating steel. On my first one I learned that thinner core material doesnt make the best san mai so the next two I used steel the same thickness as the cladding (thirds). Entirely hand forged in a coal forge too which is a workout.
Excellent video Denis! I was curious about the heat treating, and you nailed it. Thank you! I’m attempting my first Cu Mai when it’s not so hot here in Florida, and excited to see the results. I have to make chainsaw chain canister Damascus knife for my son who is a tree arborist. I’m using some of his used chains to make his blade. Maybe one day if you attempt it, please do a video. ☺️
Good info as always! As I understand it(correct me if I’m wrong), layered construction with soft metals like nickel or copper isn’t actually forge welding. The soft metal shims act like solder and bond the jacket to the core? That said, would there be any benefit to a rougher surface finish on the core and jacket faces that contact the shims?
The technical term would be diffusion welding, which is brazing in layman’s terms. You don’t want to rough up the surfaces, quite the opposite. You want as much surface contact as possible. It’s not like glue. Thanks for watching
Really cool video. Thank you for that. Do you got a video for home shop hobby black smiths? Like how to make damascus with an anvil, regular hand held hammer and a gas forge. Maybe Borax. Greets from Germany Dennis
Denis, meant to ask you for some time: is it possible to use, say, 304 for cladding? In other words can an asustenitic stainless steel be forge-welded to a high-carbon steel? Thank you!!
No, what you are referring to is just edge geometry. The cladding is typically softer and if you have a non-ferrous shim, it's definitely a no-no. "support for the edge" is not a thing. You grind a different type of bevel if you want that like a convex edge. Thanks for watching, Alex.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Ah thanks, I thought I remembered you saying it, then I tried to find it by just searching through the video but clearly that didn't work...
You could do stainless cladding but not a stainless core. Heat treating stainless requires temps higher than the melting point of copper. Thanks for watching.
Any questions or items I missed answering in this video?
Thanks Denis!
Thanks for tuning in!
Great info! Most of the people complaining about not forging to shape are just telling on themselves. If they knew what they’re doing, they would know better. Just like the guys who say stock removal isn’t as good quality as forged. We’re not using ancient steel that needs to be forged to compact the layers and get rid of impurities.
Well said! People that just want to glamorize forging. Yeah it’s cool, but each tool for its purpose. Thanks for watching.
Really great video! The rule of thirds makes a lot of sense. I'm actually about to "weld" a few combinations of steels inside a HT Oven and create a diffusion bond, then perhaps draw out some of those pieces and cut out some knives out of them later on. I don't have a press and it seems worth it to do it this way. The rule of thirds will help me figure out how to construct this project properly, cheers!
I’m glad it was helpful. I’ve use my oven on occasion when it’s a non-ferrous metal with a lower melting point. Thanks for watching.
Very good information, thank you Dennis.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for tuning in.
As soon as it cools off some I'm going to fire up the forge and give this a shot. I was about to buy a press but I decided to get a boat motor instead. I guess it's hammer time. Thanks for the advice 👍
Give it a try! Thanks for watching, Richard.
Great video, especially the theory of forging in bevels and how that impacts the visibility of the core. Thanks
Glad you liked it! Thanks for tuning in.
What i like to do with gomai or sanmai constructions is roughly grinding to my core steel with an anglegrinder after forgewelding and then beveling and forging to shape. This ensures i have my core on the edge everywhere.
Yes that is certainly advisable on any layered construction after forging. I even etch it before surface grinding in case I need to recenter it a bit. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this! I am just finishing up a couple fairly unsuccessful Go Mai blades. Your video will really help on my next attempt.
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching.
Ive done 2 san mai knives and Im working on my third. Pretty surprised theyve all came out perfect so far, even though Im self taught with no experience forge welding/laminating steel. On my first one I learned that thinner core material doesnt make the best san mai so the next two I used steel the same thickness as the cladding (thirds). Entirely hand forged in a coal forge too which is a workout.
Keep at it, it sounds like you’re being successful. Thanks for watching
Great video Brother!!! You answered a lot of my questions! Thanks for sharing! 🔥🙏🏻☯️😎👍🏻
Thanks for tuning in, Bob!
Very informative, thank you
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for tuning in.
Great tips! I learn something new on all you're videos
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching.
Great info. I liked the drawing explanations, very understandable. Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for tuning in.
Excellent video Denis! I was curious about the heat treating, and you nailed it. Thank you!
I’m attempting my first Cu Mai when it’s not so hot here in Florida, and excited to see the results.
I have to make chainsaw chain canister Damascus knife for my son who is a tree arborist. I’m using some of his used chains to make his blade. Maybe one day if you attempt it, please do a video. ☺️
I’ve never done chain. I’m not really that into canisters personally. Not enough control of the final pattern for me. 😜. Thanks for watching
1/3 rule is great! that will help😄. Have you ever tried a bronze shim? I have tried a couple times with no luck.
I’ve not done bronze, but it’s all about temp control and I’ve done pure silver which has a very similar melting point. Thanks for watching.
Great information thanks
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
This was super helpful!
I’m glad it had sone good info for you. Thanks for watching!
GM je ne parle pas anglais je m excuse je suis votre chaîne je suis un grand fan j'aime la coutellerie et vos techniques merci
Merci beaucoup et merci d'avoir regardé !
Good info as always! As I understand it(correct me if I’m wrong), layered construction with soft metals like nickel or copper isn’t actually forge welding. The soft metal shims act like solder and bond the jacket to the core? That said, would there be any benefit to a rougher surface finish on the core and jacket faces that contact the shims?
The technical term would be diffusion welding, which is brazing in layman’s terms. You don’t want to rough up the surfaces, quite the opposite. You want as much surface contact as possible. It’s not like glue. Thanks for watching
Good info buddy. 🙂
Thanks for tuning in, Tony!
Great bro 👏👏
Thank you so much 😀
Really cool video. Thank you for that. Do you got a video for home shop hobby black smiths? Like how to make damascus with an anvil, regular hand held hammer and a gas forge. Maybe Borax.
Greets from Germany
Dennis
If you watch my Triple-T #89-83, I do a series of making a knife with hand forged Damascus. Check that out. Thanks for watching.
Thanx mate 👍👍
Denis, meant to ask you for some time: is it possible to use, say, 304 for cladding? In other words can an asustenitic stainless steel be forge-welded to a high-carbon steel? Thank you!!
Yes it’s possible, but a little more difficult. For stainless San mai, I use 416 stainless with better results. Thanks for watching
Wouldn't a thinner core with cladding closer to the edge provide more support for the edge? So there would be more effect from the tougher cladding?
No, what you are referring to is just edge geometry. The cladding is typically softer and if you have a non-ferrous shim, it's definitely a no-no. "support for the edge" is not a thing. You grind a different type of bevel if you want that like a convex edge. Thanks for watching, Alex.
Can you use brass as a shim material?
Sure, it’s a bit more difficult because its melting point is around 1700F.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks
What is the thickness of the shims (mm) that you use?
I said in the video, if it’s copper I use .020” inches or .5mm. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks Ah thanks, I thought I remembered you saying it, then I tried to find it by just searching through the video but clearly that didn't work...
🤙
Thanks for watching!
How about stainless steel with copper?
You could do stainless cladding but not a stainless core. Heat treating stainless requires temps higher than the melting point of copper. Thanks for watching.
Please can you create The Witcher Silver sword & Iron sword ? I hope to see it in real life
I don’t really do replicas, sorry. Thanks for watching.
شايب فنان
شكرا للمشاهدة
👏👏👏👏👏🤜🤛
Thanks for watching!
PSA: If you're going to use nickel for your shim, be sure to use "pure nickel" and not nickel-silver. Ask me how I know.
Ha, yes. Nickel silver has a MUCH lower melting point. Nickel is very high, almost like steel. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworksyeah that's how I found out what I had was actually nickel-silver not pure nickel. Always great content man