I wonder if you can blast with water and vapor and not use any media. Would that be possible? Maybe that would be enough to clean well without the possibility of introducing particles in the block.
looking great. When I was younger I took things apart and reassembled not always knowing what was what. I worked with an Engineer at my job site who did the same thing just from curiosity and a respect for things mechanical. It is much better than causing trouble in our free time. Life is too short for trouble. We should use that time for freedom to do what is right for ourselves and others. Just Ron
Yeah my son (bless his curious pea picking heart) disassembled his go cart engine, lost half the parts. Then got curious about my all original, running, unrestored, 1950 five window 3100 Chev truck. Lost most all the parts he took off the engine, removed the head, took the carb apart and punched two holes in the copper radiator. Let's just say I was wayyy past angry.
Cool deal; Type 4 motors are generally bulletproof. New guides on those heads along with new exhaust valves and what you plan to do on the rest of the motor and you will be set. Glass bead is the best and definitely Darrin will make that motor bark! The rust repair on the car is another matter. 😉. Don’t abandon Rusty; that’s the main character in your garage. Rooting for you, man! 👍
The first cylinder head shows marks of the spark plug thread in the combustion chamber. It looks like someone has sometimes installed spark plugs with the wrong thread length. But it is always nice to see the progress you made 👍.
@@CTmoog If the case is ok, it is certainly not necessary. You will not see the engine block later when the engine is installed. It looks nicer when the housing is cleaned, but the risk is greater. I would try to rinse the housing with cleaner to remove any sticky oil residue in the holes.
I watch this channel Specifically for the Porsche 914 content... And I know I'm not the only one!... (just wanted to add my two cents for those saying CT should only do VW content)… Keep up the Good Work!
The vapor blaster is fantastic for cleaning up brake calipers when you rekit them. You can get right into the groove that the seal sits in and the land above it where the rust and dirt collect. The heads came up like new. I wouldn't do the case as its too easy to get the sand stuck in the galleries. You've been told correctly. You aren't hitting it hard enough to erode the surface with the fine powder. You are just taking the dirt off. Give the plate with the spring a wash. I think the spring is the one that sits in the top of the distributor drive gear. It's to big to go through the mesh pick up screen so it isn't worth worrying about. Its just found its self to the lowest point in the engine. Your friend is putting together with you? Get him to (or you can ) take out the oil pressure relief valve and clean the gallery. Its in a gallery with a big plug with a wide screwdriver in the top. In behind it is a spring and a small piston. Its there to give you a safe maximum oil pressure so it doesn't blow the seal off the oil filter amongst other things. BTW something i thought of regarding the 914 s body. I've worked on a couple of rusty ones. When they get old they rust out around the front lower suspension arm mounts (saddles) to the body up front. I forgot to mention it earlier, sorry. They have been known to start to break away when they get rusty. So check them and get them fixed if necessary. Its not something that should be left.
More awesome content from one of my favorite air-cooled lovers! If I take the plunge in the air-cooled end of the pool, it’s going to be a vw notchback.
I got an old sand rail a few days ago, your video helped me on identifying the engine. i just started taking things apart last night, looking forward to your videos since its the first engine i will attempt to rebuild
@CT will there be more videos of the engine rebuild? I'm building a 1700VW Type 4 (first time build) and would love to see how you put this engine back together - Ive no idea what Im doing :)
Theirs plenty of projects like Rusty on TH-cam to watch. I don't see many type 4 engines rebuilding projects like CT, is doing now. Give CT a break. I like/ enjoy watching the type 4 engine videos. 👍
Hi CT Is your pick up mine yet ? lol. Remember I bet you your pick up you dont do Rusty in time for the show / meet. Cant wait to see more vids on Rusty.
Looks good CT. These parts that could rust are made of steel....not rust. Also, the threaded parts sticking out of the head are called studs (not bolts). As for vapour blasting the engine cases....I wouldn’t for the reason you quoted. If any beads are left behind in an oil gallery, you will ruin the engine when it starts.
Looking good so far. I just finished the whole set and I was wondering of there was any updates on this build? Thanks for the content and keep up the great work.
Hi CT I would suggest to blast the case, but without media like glass powder or anything else. Hot water plus engine cleaner or any other detergent. Last step compressed air and let the case remain in vented warm conditition until its dry.
After cleaning these parts and rinsing in the rust inhibitor, I'm wandering if you could spray a fine layer of oil and seal them up in some kind of container?
you can blast all the cases (you've already blasted the heads and they have oil passages, dont they?) when in doubt, after blasting you can heat the cases in an oven to 225 degrees (engines get WAY hotter when running) and then quench it in mineral spirits or degreaser to break loose glass beads in oil passages and blow compressed air & carb cleaner spray thru every hole and port - I do it all the time with vintage Italian motorcycle engines, for 40+ years now, never had a problem-
Mad-Duk Machine Works 1.7 vw engine from a kombi , these little cars came with porsche or vw , the other engine was a 2llitre 6 cylinder and that is a 914/6
Get the oil pump checked as replacements are expensive if you can find a good one. T1 pumps can be made to fit with some clearance work. Having the T1 pump body o-ringed is also essential IMO as it's slightly smaller than a T4 one. I'm sure Darrin can advise on this.
Nice, that's called clean! =) If you are going to blast the block, yes, they're right. Some of the abrasive could clog the passages, so extra care should be taken in cleaning those passages after as you certainly don't want abrasive to end up inside a running engine.. Personally I would clean it the traditional way with brushes and gasoline.. =) Just my opinion though.. Good luck with rebuilding the engine and get rid of that spring a.s.a.p. Look at it, besides sitting there for a long time it's also partially crushed (means it was probably hit by some moving part) and it looks miserable. =) Isn't that the oil pressure sensor cover? Cheers. keep up!
Hi, Ct my friend, just came over the uploaded video, I think maybe there where some problems with the upload because I did not find you again before today. I was wondering I thought maybe you were not well. Bud as I see you are OK.Great looking forward to the next escapades with Rusty the Bus. Did you get the parts you were waiting for?? Greetings HCS
Man you're up late!! Lol. I believe this explains a previous show exposing a head with a crack. Test run maybe? Don't think it would be advised to vapor blast the case. Good cleaning with a degreaser, put a light coating of oil on the steel parts and call it good.
@@CTmoog I think if your dead set on it then try to plug every oil passage to keep tiny particles of media out, only thing I could suggest is maybe making wooden plugs that could be easily removed yet wouldn't be affected by the media. If you had access to a pressurized steam cleaner that would be best in my opinion. Anyway, good show. Thanks
Don't vapor blast the case. It's not worth the risk because of the sand as you said. Don't blast the rod, cam, or crank journals either. I wouldn't even bother blasting the rods at all. They looked fine.
I know...I still very temped to do it. I want to do some research on it. The sand is super fine and should wash out of all the areas...I mean when you wash it the traditional wash dirt and grease go in those areas as well...there must nbe a way that is safe do do this process on the case.
Hey, what did you end up doing with those old 1.7L 914 heads? I see you went with new ones on your build in the end. was there a,problem with those old heads?
BTW and this is important, don't attempt to remove what you called freeze plugs, first they aren't freeze plugs they are pressed in to plug the site where oil galleries were drilled during manufacture, I believe if you drill them out you'll have a leak unless you weld them back in
Why not vapor blast the case? If you are concerned about getting some in the passages, could you duct tape up the portions that you wouldn't want to get inside?
That spring you found goes on top of the Distributor drive to keep the distributor moving up & down. Nice job on those heads, But be forewarned if you put any other cylinders (Like aftermarket) The Porsche pistons were DOMED the ones you took out were FLAT your compression ratio will be very low- ROY NOTE: I have been running type 4 & Porsche for 45 years in Dune Buggies.
Those heads look really nice, now stop putting the machined side down on the cement and stuff or you're going to have to get them machined . Wrap them separately in an old towel
Been interested in watching some VW rebuild videos and I have to say I've learned a lot from watching your stuff. Just kinda interested in what happens with the Porsche engine. I know it sounds bad but I have to say that I cringe every time I see you slide, turn or lay a head or any part that has a machined surface on concrete or anything abrasive. It's always a good idea to lay down cardboard or rags to protect that surface since it's what holds the compression, (water) and oil apart on all engines.
@@hectoraleman9804 Están en el rango desde los 3000 para arriba en los Estados Unidos y lo óptimo para su funcionamiento es un compresor de al menos 7,5 HP con 25 cfm para que no se accione a cada rato
You can vapor blast anything you just have to make sure you clean it really good to get all the media out. When you clean engine parts the traditional way you dunk them in clean solution that gets dirty from all the sand, dirt, grease, oil that's on the parts. You then proceed to scrub and wife the parts with this dirty solution therefore filling all the passages with dirt....you still have to make sure everything is cleaned properly.
Good progression so far. If I were you, and we know you are not, I would rebuild and upgrade this motor, call Jake Rabey and convert this motor to work in a type 1 late model swing axle and type 3 rear drum brakes. I would also get a DTM fan shroud kit, king pin drop spindles and disc brakes and stuff all of these parts into Rusty. I would keep all of his original parts in storage, if the original running gear was ever needed. This way you can drive Rusty in modern traffic knowing that you can keep up and stop like a modern vehicle. Of course, that is just my humble idea. You are free to do what you want. Good luck.
ct this is about rusty your going to loose people if your jumping from 1 to another where watching to see rusty go down the road not other crap projects
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Instablaster
wow that thing really works great to clean those heads.
Hey Mike! It's pretty sweet! I might do the case too!
@@CTmoog yea looks like it would work good. just make sure to blow out all the oil passages in the case before building.
I wonder if you can blast with water and vapor and not use any media. Would that be possible? Maybe that would be enough to clean well without the possibility of introducing particles in the block.
Nice job!
Thanks brother!
Between you two this motor is going to be killer!
There’s something satisfying in seeing how clean parts get with that.i need to get one of those
looking great. When I was younger I took things apart and reassembled not always knowing what was what. I worked with an Engineer at my job site who did the same thing just from curiosity and a respect for things mechanical. It is much better than causing trouble in our free time. Life is too short for trouble. We should use that time for freedom to do what is right for ourselves and others. Just Ron
Yeah my son (bless his curious pea picking heart) disassembled his go cart engine, lost half the parts. Then got curious about my all original, running, unrestored, 1950 five window 3100 Chev truck. Lost most all the parts he took off the engine, removed the head, took the carb apart and punched two holes in the copper radiator. Let's just say I was wayyy past angry.
Cool deal; Type 4 motors are generally bulletproof. New guides on those heads along with new exhaust valves and what you plan to do on the rest of the motor and you will be set. Glass bead is the best and definitely Darrin will make that motor bark! The rust repair on the car is another matter. 😉. Don’t abandon Rusty; that’s the main character in your garage. Rooting for you, man! 👍
Hey Ricardo! Darrin will make it bark! I love that! =) More Rusty videos coming soon! =)
CT a set of Dellorto 40’s would be the ticket for it.😉
Cannot wait to see rusty on the road, rooting for you man
The vapor blasting is brain soothing.
Man, that machine is good. You should be pleased. Well done.
Thanks David! Yes, it really does an amazing job! The results are very satisfying! =)
heads look great just super clean case hot water and dish soap old school i am 65 yr old
Thanks Alvin!
amazing tool ....soon your 914 engine will be the one on the floor with duals all snotty :)))
I can't wait! =)
Woow I like it 👌👌 looks pretty good 👍 good job CT 👏 ☺️ I love to see your passion to do all this restoration ☺️
Thanks Iris! I really do love the restoration process! =)
Yes! Needed this. Happy Fathers Day bud!
Thanks Frank! Happy Father's Day my friend!
The first cylinder head shows marks of the spark plug thread in the combustion chamber. It looks like someone has sometimes installed spark plugs with the wrong thread length. But it is always nice to see the progress you made 👍.
Yes, you might be correct. I hope we can save it. It's getting there! Thanks my friend! What are your thoughts on vapor blasting the case?
@@CTmoog If the case is ok, it is certainly not necessary. You will not see the engine block later when the engine is installed. It looks nicer when the housing is cleaned, but the risk is greater. I would try to rinse the housing with cleaner to remove any sticky oil residue in the holes.
Good luck, measure everything and a happy rebuild...!
Hi CT, looks good, hope you can save as much as possible. That was a sweet sounding engine that Darren was running at the end. Good luck.
I watch this channel Specifically for the Porsche 914 content... And I know I'm not the only one!... (just wanted to add my two cents for those saying CT should only do VW content)… Keep up the Good Work!
Thanks Brian! More 914 videos coming. I need to get this F250 engine up and running so we can make more room in the shop. Thanks for the support!
The vapor blaster is fantastic for cleaning up brake calipers when you rekit them. You can get right into the groove that the seal sits in and the land above it where the rust and dirt collect. The heads came up like new. I wouldn't do the case as its too easy to get the sand stuck in the galleries. You've been told correctly. You aren't hitting it hard enough to erode the surface with the fine powder. You are just taking the dirt off. Give the plate with the spring a wash. I think the spring is the one that sits in the top of the distributor drive gear. It's to big to go through the mesh pick up screen so it isn't worth worrying about. Its just found its self to the lowest point in the engine. Your friend is putting together with you? Get him to (or you can ) take out the oil pressure relief valve and clean the gallery. Its in a gallery with a big plug with a wide screwdriver in the top. In behind it is a spring and a small piston. Its there to give you a safe maximum oil pressure so it doesn't blow the seal off the oil filter amongst other things. BTW something i thought of regarding the 914 s body. I've worked on a couple of rusty ones. When they get old they rust out around the front lower suspension arm mounts (saddles) to the body up front. I forgot to mention it earlier, sorry. They have been known to start to break away when they get rusty. So check them and get them fixed if necessary. Its not something that should be left.
Love your work CT, great videos on the 914. I’m envious!!
Thank you! =)
More awesome content from one of my favorite air-cooled lovers! If I take the plunge in the air-cooled end of the pool, it’s going to be a vw notchback.
I got an old sand rail a few days ago, your video helped me on identifying the engine. i just started taking things apart last night, looking forward to your videos since its the first engine i will attempt to rebuild
@CT will there be more videos of the engine rebuild? I'm building a 1700VW Type 4 (first time build) and would love to see how you put this engine back together - Ive no idea what Im doing :)
Yes, Hopefully in the next few weeks.
Looking good CT. I should have sent you my parts and paid you to revive them. I spent days doing what you can do in minutes. Keep at it and stay safe!
Great job CT!
Thanks Brian!
it’s a good job!
Thanks Alexey!
This mechin is worth every penny .Can wait to see when it all to gether and how it sounds
Yes, it really is! Thank man!
very good !!!
Theirs plenty of projects like Rusty on TH-cam to watch. I don't see many type 4 engines rebuilding projects like CT, is doing now. Give CT a break. I like/ enjoy watching the type 4 engine videos. 👍
прикольно , тоже в этом году займусь реставрацией
Hi CT Is your pick up mine yet ? lol. Remember I bet you your pick up you dont do Rusty in time for the show / meet. Cant wait to see more vids on Rusty.
HAHA! More Rusty vids coming soon!
I'm excited to see you working on the 914, but curious about what you're doing on Rusty. Are you waiting on parts for it?
Hey Thomas! Thanks man! Yes, I was waiting on some more metal to come in. it arrive last week. More Rusty vids coming soon.
It's looking good...Happy Daddy's Day!
Thanks Howie! Happy Fathers Day my friend! =)
Looking good for sure. I say have the case hot tanked at a machine shop or just clean it by hand with some engine degreaser.
Thanks man! That might be the best option!
Good job from Egypt
Thanks Ali!
Looks good CT. These parts that could rust are made of steel....not rust. Also, the threaded parts sticking out of the head are called studs (not bolts). As for vapour blasting the engine cases....I wouldn’t for the reason you quoted. If any beads are left behind in an oil gallery, you will ruin the engine when it starts.
Hey Peter! Good catch! I really want to blast all the parts....I wish it was safe.
Looking good so far. I just finished the whole set and I was wondering of there was any updates on this build? Thanks for the content and keep up the great work.
just WOW
Thanks Yury!
Nice work CT. Things are looking good.
Thanks Ron!
Só vou assistir o da Kombi, depois os outros
Hello Jorge! The Rusty Kombi will be back soon. Thank you! =)
What do you think? Should we blast the case?
Hi CT I would suggest to blast the case, but without media like glass powder or anything else. Hot water plus engine cleaner or any other detergent. Last step compressed air and let the case remain in vented warm conditition until its dry.
Exactly what I posted too. Wonder if that’s possible; no media; just degreaser, water and vapor.
@@vayabroder729 Confirmed knowledge :-)
@@vayabroder729 I might try that!
@@tomb.6909 I think I will give that a try and see how it turns out. Thanks Tom!
The spring in the cover of oil sump looks like the spring between distributor and distributor drive.
Hey Tom! Yes, it does! This engine had some junk in it! =) I'm glad we are taking it all apart and cleaning everything.
@@CTmoog Hi CT good luck regarding your rebuild I hope that you can recover reliable Typ 4 Power. Lot of that is hidden inside Typ 4
After cleaning these parts and rinsing in the rust inhibitor, I'm wandering if you could spray a fine layer of oil and seal them up in some kind of container?
Great Jop Ct 👍👍👍
Thanks Andreas!
you can blast all the cases (you've already blasted the heads and they have oil passages, dont they?) when in doubt, after blasting you can heat the cases in an oven to 225 degrees (engines get WAY hotter when running) and then quench it in mineral spirits or degreaser to break loose glass beads in oil passages and blow compressed air & carb cleaner spray thru every hole and port - I do it all the time with vintage Italian motorcycle engines, for 40+ years now, never had a problem-
Mad-Duk Machine Works no oil passages in air cooled heads , the oil comes up the push rods
@@bigears4426 Yeah, I knew VW heads were like that but isnt these from a 914 or something? Wasnt sure?
Mad-Duk Machine Works 1.7 vw engine from a kombi , these little cars came with porsche or vw , the other engine was a 2llitre 6 cylinder and that is a 914/6
Get the oil pump checked as replacements are expensive if you can find a good one.
T1 pumps can be made to fit with some clearance work.
Having the T1 pump body o-ringed is also essential IMO as it's slightly smaller than a T4 one.
I'm sure Darrin can advise on this.
Sounds like a good idea. I will ask Darrin! thanks man!
Nice, that's called clean! =) If you are going to blast the block, yes, they're right. Some of the abrasive could clog the passages, so extra care should be taken in cleaning those passages after as you certainly don't want abrasive to end up inside a running engine.. Personally I would clean it the traditional way with brushes and gasoline.. =) Just my opinion though.. Good luck with rebuilding the engine and get rid of that spring a.s.a.p. Look at it, besides sitting there for a long time it's also partially crushed (means it was probably hit by some moving part) and it looks miserable. =) Isn't that the oil pressure sensor cover? Cheers. keep up!
Thanks Paul! Yes, its a cleaning machine! It works really good. I would love to blast the case. not sure yet. Going to do some more research on it.
Are you all caught up with all of the parts you ordered for Rusty,ia that why your working on the 914? Just wondering CT?
Hi Marvin, I have most of the parts I need for Rusty. There are few more things I'm waiting on but we will have a new Rusty video soon. Stay tuned! =)
Hi, Ct my friend, just came over the uploaded video, I think maybe there where some problems with the upload because I did not find you again before today. I was wondering I thought maybe you were not well. Bud as I see you are OK.Great looking forward to the next escapades with Rusty the Bus. Did you get the parts you were waiting for?? Greetings HCS
Dang, as much as I do over here I could use one of those.
Man you're up late!! Lol. I believe this explains a previous show exposing a head with a crack.
Test run maybe?
Don't think it would be advised to vapor blast the case. Good cleaning with a degreaser, put a light coating of oil on the steel parts and call it good.
Hey Donnie! Yes, I was burning the midnight oil! =) I really want to blast the case if it's possible but I don't want to mess anything up......
@@CTmoog I think if your dead set on it then try to plug every oil passage to keep tiny particles of media out, only thing I could suggest is maybe making wooden plugs that could be easily removed yet wouldn't be affected by the media. If you had access to a pressurized steam cleaner that would be best in my opinion. Anyway, good show. Thanks
Don't vapor blast the case. It's not worth the risk because of the sand as you said. Don't blast the rod, cam, or crank journals either. I wouldn't even bother blasting the rods at all. They looked fine.
I know...I still very temped to do it. I want to do some research on it. The sand is super fine and should wash out of all the areas...I mean when you wash it the traditional wash dirt and grease go in those areas as well...there must nbe a way that is safe do do this process on the case.
Mr CT when will you work back on rusty I want to see him all fixed and running on the roads again.
Hello Vizaal! Very soon. Me too! Stay tuned! =)
I will I watched all your rusty van restorations video
Take the alt. to an auto parts store and have them test it. It has sat for a while and it would be nice to know if it is good now.
Hey Daniel! Good idea! Yes, that would be nice to find out if it's still working good.
Hey CT, it looks like your vapor blaster is made in USA? Where can I buy one like that?
Hey Mathew, VHT - vaporhoningtechnologies.com
CT the spring looks like the one that sits on top of the distributor drive. If it fall out it could end up on the bottom of the engine.
Hey James! Yes, I think you are correct! Pretty crazy. This engine was in bad shape!
CT I have a Bay Window with the same engine. I broke the engine case hanging it on my engine stand. I’m sure Daren won’t let that happen.
Hey, what did you end up doing with those old 1.7L 914 heads? I see you went with new ones on your build in the end. was there a,problem with those old heads?
We bought new heads from aapistons - aapistons.com , the old heads are worn out and would cost too much to repair.
@@CTmoog had they had too much machined off them?
That's a really nice blaster. Where did you get that model from?
Thank you! It's from VHT. They have the best blasters! Check them out.
vaporhoningtechnologies.com
BTW and this is important, don't attempt to remove what you called freeze plugs, first they aren't freeze plugs they are pressed in to plug the site where oil galleries were drilled during manufacture, I believe if you drill them out you'll have a leak unless you weld them back in
Good point! I wonder if they can be replaced with threaded plugs...
@@CTmoog Drilling and tapping for NPT plugs is common practice preventing future leaks and easy access for cleaning.
Spring appears to be from distributor drive gear if I'm not mistaken.
Why not vapor blast the case? If you are concerned about getting some in the passages, could you duct tape up the portions that you wouldn't want to get inside?
Thats a pretty nice Vapour blaster, what does that cost?
That spring you found goes on top of the Distributor drive to keep the distributor moving up & down. Nice job on those heads, But be forewarned if you put any other cylinders (Like aftermarket) The Porsche pistons were DOMED the ones you took out were FLAT your compression ratio will be very low- ROY NOTE: I have been running type 4 & Porsche for 45 years in Dune Buggies.
Those heads look really nice, now stop putting the machined side down on the cement and stuff or you're going to have to get them machined . Wrap them separately in an old towel
Thanks man! I know...I realized I was doing that when I watched the video back...I have to be more careful! Thanks for the advice! =)
Been interested in watching some VW rebuild videos and I have to say I've learned a lot from watching your stuff. Just kinda interested in what happens with the Porsche engine. I know it sounds bad but I have to say that I cringe every time I see you slide, turn or lay a head or any part that has a machined surface on concrete or anything abrasive. It's always a good idea to lay down cardboard or rags to protect that surface since it's what holds the compression, (water) and oil apart on all engines.
Que costó tiene la mesa de lavar piezas a presión? Nesesitan un compresor fuerte para operar?
Yes, it dependents on the brand. Yes, you need a good compressor. Search youtube and google. yOU will find lots of info. =)
@@CTmoog ok ,,,gracias
@@hectoraleman9804 Están en el rango desde los 3000 para arriba en los Estados Unidos y lo óptimo para su funcionamiento es un compresor de al menos 7,5 HP con 25 cfm para que no se accione a cada rato
Looking good. Just curious what size engine is it 1700 1800 2000 cc?
Hey James, it is a 1700
I still haven’t figured out why it’s called vapor blasting..........looks more like water and sand blasting..... I have yet to see any vapor....
Why not use a pressure washer to clean out the passages?
I hope you didn't vapor blast the casings it will leave fine particles in some places. I learned the hard way. Bearing failure.
Hello My friend i follow You from Cancún México but you have 2 weeks you dont show yo ser You ok
There seems to be no light at the end of the tunnel on this project no end in sight, like a never ending soap opera!!!☹️😭😰😵😨😥🤧😣😠
You will have to tune in next week to see what happens! =)
"Next week"??
This was five months ago! Where's the rest of the story?
"Do not" vapor blast anything inside the engine case no matter how fine the media is!
You can vapor blast anything you just have to make sure you clean it really good to get all the media out. When you clean engine parts the traditional way you dunk them in clean solution that gets dirty from all the sand, dirt, grease, oil that's on the parts. You then proceed to scrub and wife the parts with this dirty solution therefore filling all the passages with dirt....you still have to make sure everything is cleaned properly.
Studs not Bolts! ...Newk from Kentucky
HAHA! =)
Good progression so far. If I were you, and we know you are not, I would rebuild and upgrade this motor, call Jake Rabey and convert this motor to work in a type 1 late model swing axle and type 3 rear drum brakes. I would also get a DTM fan shroud kit, king pin drop spindles and disc brakes and stuff all of these parts into Rusty. I would keep all of his original parts in storage, if the original running gear was ever needed. This way you can drive Rusty in modern traffic knowing that you can keep up and stop like a modern vehicle. Of course, that is just my humble idea. You are free to do what you want. Good luck.
Hello Mas! Those are great ideas! It would be cool to have that option for Rusty. This engine is for the 914. =)
Here in Nigeria
Am d best for dis engine wake me up enytime we call it .411engine
OR double Caprator
What was the size of the engine?
1700cc
Almost looks like it would be better to boil the case.
ct this is about rusty your going to loose people if your jumping from 1 to another where watching to see rusty go down the road not other crap projects
I see it differently. I find some variety interesting. It cannot be avoided if you have several projects in the garage.
Hey Roger, Rusty will have plenty of air time soon. Stay tuned! =)
@@GettingNervous Thanks my friend! You can never have too many projects! =)
Don’t do it...