As a far northeastern Minnesotan from up in the Arrowhead 15 miles from the Canadian border as the crows fly, I can confirm the -50° below zero. The WORST I have seen was more than -60° below zero. It's unknown how much colder than -60° it was because the official thermometer BROKE from the cold at -60°. That was cold enough that even though my truck started it didn't want to move because the fear lube in the transmission and rear end were too thick from the cold and I couldn't move the shifter.
Unfortunately, the problem with these comments is that people are not familiar with how old school tech works, and you do a great job explaining the basics of how these old systems work. For some it just doesn't have a place to plug it in.
When I got a car in 1985 first thing I did was throw away the stock air cleaner and bought a chrome "sandwich" I call them air cleaner with just a chrome top and bottom. Throw away the factory one with a heat tube. I left Milwaukee with a 130 miles to go with a full tank of watery gas and -20 deg. I barely mad it to a gas station to get some heet to pour in. The car barely ran but at least I knew what was wrong. The next summer I was in a bad storm driving on the interstate and my car just died. I coasted to a stop and waited for the rain to stop. The first thing some kid does who knows nothing about cars is take off the air cleaner to take a look. The thing weighed like 5 pounds and water was running out of it. I got lucky and threw the thing in the backseat and drove home. I went to the junk yard payed $1.50 for the original air cleaner with heat tube and threw away the shiny trinket.
Yes sir I knew from experience that, that was the cause of that choke not working properly. Uncle Tony would have really thrown folks for a loop if he went into the Thermo-Vac system that heats up the incoming air to the carburetor through the air filter assembly.
I might be one of those guys in the comments you mentioned but thank you for clearing up. All of the points you were trying to make I actually learned something. I'm 42 and I'm one of the only guys I know that works in the automotive industry still that we'll take apart a Carburetor most shops these days wouldn't even touch them. But thank you I learned something new. I never thought about it that way. This is knowledge only I got your age that grew up working on these vehicles Nose and I appreciate it
You're spot on Tony. I grew up in that very era as a mechanic and we dealt with these issues all of the time. Thanks for having the patience to explain things in a way that people can understand. You have a method to your madness that I understand. Keep up the great videos.
I was fascinated with yesterday's video, and totally got the lesson yesterday. Over the years, I have just disabled the auto choke when it became problematic, and dealt with a few minutes of difficulty keeping it running (who needs a choke when you have an accelerator pump and know how to use it) in cold weather. One car stalled at the side of the road in the winter mountains, and the solution was moving the choke plate into the glove box for the remaining years I had that car ('81 olds custom cruiser diesel wagon with a different year engine out of a Firebird). Yesterday evening I learned I should have been fixing the root cause, and would have enjoyed better fuel economy.
I've got 3 plugged 318 intakes buried in my back yard. Pretty sure that the stuff in it will eventually turn to diamonds if I leave it buried long enough.
My comments on the last video were about cleaning a lot of intake exhaust passages when I worked for the Dodge dealer. Quite a few of the cars came in an had been changed to a manual choke, but they still had drivability problems. Cleaning the intake and make sure the flapper works along with proper carb adjustments always brought back good drivability. Also, the add on manual choke kits that were available in the 70's were really junk.
The late 60s early 70s 318 2bbl setup from the factory was one of the best engines for most power with less fuel I ever experienced. Huge cars had this relatively small engine and drove great and would get surprisingly good gas mileage if kept in factory tune. I would say the 1968 year model Fury was the prime example
what Tony just explained about the rapid fuel atomization such as doing a quarter mile pass. is a form of evaporative cooling. part of the intake manifold will remain cooler while the engine is running at a higher temperature. Think of it this way. When you're working on the carburetor or part of the fuel system such as disconnecting the fuel line at the float bowl or replacing a fuel filter. When you feel that bit of fuel leak out onto your hands when you're loosening a line fitting or taking off a filter, you feel a rapid cooling effect when the gas is evaporating off your skin. For any of us who had to take mechanics shop class in highschool, we were also taught that the fuel vapors can easily cause spontaneous combustion at room temperature where there is that gas vapor and oxygen get mixed together such as with soaked or dirty shop rags, a static electric charge can also ignite fuel vapors. Thought I should mention that because a few years back, I nearly destroyed my motorhome one early morning after the previous night of swapping carburetors, fixing the carb that I had to remove, swapping the fixed carb back onto my engine. By 4am I couldn't stay awake and I was too tired and didn't want to cross thread the fuel line to the float bowl. Few hours later I woke up and forgot about the loose line fitting. I started the engine and poof! had a fire right inside my motorhome!! I tossed the engine cover outside and put that bit of fire out, ran back into my RV, grabbed the ash pail from the wood stove and smothered the whole engine and put a gasoline fire out!! The only damage I had was a few sparkplug wires burnt, the wire to the carb choke and a couple of wires at the alternator. No big expense and I didn't get injured or end up losing my vehicle and home! It's too bad we didn't have youtube back in the 90's. I was doing things with a project car that drove my neighbors insane. Cops used to sit on the roadside near the end of my driveway in hopes of catching me driving with no plates on my car. I was arrested once after a short chase and had to go to court for it. I also had some serious anger or rage issues particularly with the druggies stealing from several of us in the neighborhood. Oh how I miss all the good times back then!
Yes sir and if you spill some gasoline on your skin in real cold weather it will actually burn you because the liquid is turning into a vapor and releasing its heat. When the bottom of the carburetor is sweating it is actually acting as an evaporator in an air conditioner and transferring engine heat into the air and sweating just like an evaporator on a hot day. People who work in the air conditioning industry will understand that.
When you do take the intake off the Barracuda, can you do a short video of the blockage within the heat passage? I think it would be interesting to see as some may think "its just some carbon, use some gummout or something" not realizing that all that time, heat, and buildup actually causes something that is not possible to remove with just some spray chemical of some sort.
I’ve experienced this problem in the 70s but not know the cause. I mistook the rich running plugs for an early sign of ring wear and gave up and changed plugs a lot. Good one mate.
Here in Australia the 318 heavy duty engines come with a coolant crossover. They did this due the high rpm that the engines would see and maintained for long periods of time and it was to remove as much heat from the two side by side exhaust valves and ports. The exhaust valve stem seals are important for slowing down the carbon buildup too. A Milwaukee inferred camera on the engine in the Barracuda would be good to show before and after manifold change. It’s a good visual representation. See if you can lend one ☝️ Keep up the good work Tony.
I think people didn't understand previously that the choke not coming off completely was a symptom of the problem, but not the cause of the problem. That's why they were suggesting a manual choke, etc.
Uncle Tony, love the underlying values you adhere to when it comes to classic era cars, work with what you've got and do as much as you can yourself. That's my mantra as well. I found this particular clip interesting as I have a slight hesitation, stumble at part throttle on my 67 Barracuda 273 Commando. Gonna look into this further. I couldn't help but notice that on the 383 you focused on today you have the vacuum advance on the dizzy plugged into manifold vacuum, I thought this was a no no...?
I grew up in So. Cal. where chokes usually just caused problems, same cars with chokes deleted probably wouldn't start in a Minnesota winter. Engineers didn't build cars for "car people" they built them for those who never looked under the hood.
Absolutely correct about the drivability problems. I had the same thing with an old Pontiac 400 and I think the carbon in the crossover was about two steps away from becoming diamond.
Old, severely worn out heat-riser valves will leak exhaust gasses, causing a ticking pft pft pft pft sound under acceleration which may cause some problems with smooth engine operation when four of the cylinders on one side of the engine have less back pressure than the other four. Also, check for cracks and leaks in the vacuum advance hose....since it's difficult to adjust the engine timing and set an idle speed when the timing is jumping all over from inconsistent vacuum pressure. I bought a heat-riser rebuilt kit for my 1 ton '77 Dodge van 318 and brought the exhaust manifold to a machine shop where they bore the flapper valve pin holes oversize for the new kit. Really makes a nice improvement in overall engine performance and a quieter engine.
Haven’t thought of heat riser valves in a long time. I’m sure not many younger than fifty have ever heard of terms like choke stove and EFE early fuel evaporation heater grids and choke pull off diaphrams. Our right feet sure got a workout back then feathering the gas pedal when the engine was cold.
Even with aftermarket carbs lack of heat can be an issue, especially on Inline 6 engines. I’ve got a hopped up 300 ford with a edelbrock 500 cfm. Ran great year round with the stock log exhaust manifold, with the heat riser and flapper, even in -30 Iowa. Threw headers in 2 years ago and anytime the temp drops more than 20 degrees I’ve gotta go one step richer, or it hucks and bucks down low. Heat is your friend for daily’s people!
Yup, a cold intake is ideal only for racing. For the street, heat is good, cold is bad. On a V8 with a water cross-over in the manifold, you can get away without exhaust heat, but if you don't have a water cross-over, as is the case with 6 cyl and straight 8s, you will not be happy unless you have heat.
Yes, sir on the Chevrolet 235 engines that people modify either with hears or even a split exhaust the ability to heat up the base of the carburetor is compromised, and fellows would plumb engine coolant to the underside of the intake in order to heat up the base of the carburetor.
I just run lean as I can, let it idle a couple of minutes, and then go like I'm on fire. Actually its not a race car, its an old farm truck, so I actually DON'T "go like I'm on fire." I set my truck up for the absolute leanest burn possible. Also, even while dinkering with the rods and jets, I think it runs too fat at the top end, so I try to keep my foot out of it and stay below 60 mph so I don't suck down fuel like a leaking gas tank. When I rebuild my 392, my goal is 25 mpg. Right now, with 2 weak cylinders, likely worn cam lobes, a period of piston slap, some weak hydraulic lifters and an excessively high stall torque converter, I'm only getting about 12.5 mpg. I have no worries of getting to 25 mpg, especially if I can mate up one of those A518s or some other motor with an overdrive and a locking converter.
Up here in the Great White North winter driving is impossible without the crossover heat. Sitting on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck in -35C weather with the venturies of your carb closed off with ice is not a lot of fun. Both the crossover and exhaust heat riser valve have to be working. The big thing to look for with the flapper is whether it is free to move. They have a tendency to seize and usually in a closed position. If this happens at the same time as a plugged crossover the exhaust from the right side of the engine has nowhere to go. Try driving with a potatoe stuffed up the exhaust!
Yes, sir that is exactly what the automotive manufacturers (actually all engine manufacturers) have learned over the one hundred and twenty plus years of development.
Hey Tony this is not about this video . But I thought of ya . Check out Ben Alameda video "going real fast with simple stuff" it talks about switching the pistons so the offset is reversed like you talked about and some people made comments "engine master boys" this proves you were right ! 😊 if they try and dismiss ol Ben . They better set back and look at his resume !
I forgot about that exhaust flapper. With all that good explaining you forgot to mention how much a divorced intake manifold (a manifold where the bottom of the runners is not also the lifter valley tray) amplifies the cold running nature of the manifold. But hey, excellent work !!
I know how you're feeling I wish I could just drive over to Tony's and have him adjust my carburetor and timing for me I know I have a close but he'd be right on
I know the effects of what my 66 Ford running a 180 degree thermostat had. I rebuilt the inline 6 and added a Offy intake and small 390 cfm Holley with a RV style cam and header. Truck ran rich all the time and would stumble off idle even after setting timing and using a vacuum gauge to adjust carb. I bumped up to a 190 or 195 " I can't remember which". That extra intake heat made all the difference in a crisp throttle off idle and cleaner burn thru exhaust. I get it UT! I learned by mistake.
I ran a manual choke in my old 1982 Mustang GT after I converted it to a Holley 4V, and a few times I'd forget to open it up, and it would run like crap till I opened it up and drove a few more miles. My crossover was active underneath, but I filled the EGR port on that intake manifold's (OEM '85 Mustang 5.0) carb mounting face with JB Weld.
I know exactly what uncle Tony is talking about. I've got a d200 with a 400. I blocked off crossover and put a edelbrock 4 barrel on it. It bogs when it's cold, takes a good bit to run smooth when it's completely warmed up, it runs great and has more power.
The reason I blocked off the crossover was the carb would heat soak and boil over, even when running. Even after I welded open the flapper in the manifold. I put a insulator spacer under the carb, blocked the crossover.
Thanks for the previous video, and for this one. Because I'm an idiot, I hadn't thought of just using an infrared thermometer to check to see whether the intake manifold heat crossover was clogged or not. On my '60 Buick's 401 with about 50k miles on it, I finally decided to check the exhaust manifold heat crossover butterfly valve. After reading through the manual, I realized that this valve really needed to work, and that it might be seized. Yeah, the manual had to tell me. But hey, that's what manuals are for, right? RTFM. But because of this, I started banging on the butterfly counterweight, and realized that, yep, the butterfly valve was seized. And because of that, I suddenly realized that my poor dual-exhaust 401 was just a single-exhaust. "Damn", I thought. Well, after a few days of spraying the crap outta that thing with every penetrating oil I could find, and whacking it to death with a dead-blow hammer and a long-ass old socket extension, it finally started to move (the counterweight isn't round, like it is on this valve, but is bowtie-shaped, so it's easy to whack at). After a lot more percussve persuasion, it was *finally* freed up. I was really afraid I was gonna break the valve, or the shaft, or the spring, or crack the manifold. But I didn't. "Damn", I thought. Then I went through the carburetor adjustments, and finally started her up from cold, and what an amazing difference it made. Fired right up, idled great, tapped the accelerator and it kicked down perfectly and purred at 800RPM or whatever. Different engine; different car! "Damn!" I said. *Then* I took her on the road. "Hot damn!" I said. Beautiful throttle response, wonderful acceleration, awesome torques, and many more horsepowers. Unless you're really tinkering and modifying, make it all work like the engineers designed it, and you won't be sorry. (As long as you don't break stuff, which, luckily, I didn't).
When I was a mechanic for over 20 years I just put a electric choke in its place to save customers a lot of money. Manual chokes are not smog legal. Tony is 100% correct he was talking about drivability issues ,the choke issues is a side effect I never met a Chrysler that did not have a plugged up crossover
Ive been repairing cars for 52 years, and I never gave a damn about "smog legal" anything. I had and still have six ways to Sunday to cheat emission tests and I use them.
@@donreinke5863 Sir I was a smog mechanic in California. the underground cover cars came through all the shops on a regular basis. I knew the EPA Undercovers man's by name. And we would talk about how many people were going to jail for that week. So give it a try if you think you can get away with it.
Carburetors like the Rochester 2GC and 4GC with an iron throttle section had a heat channel just below and adjacent to the throttle plates. They put that there for a reason.
Never did care for them old Barracuda's back in the day (probably same age you are) but they have started to grow on me as I've aged, would love to see a series of videos of you (or you're Ozzie buddy) rebuilding the thing and making a custom hot rod out of it!!!! That would be so cool!!
It would be great to see an Uncle Tony/Scotty Kilmer collaboration video or guest spot! Different focus for each normally, but I'm sure there could be a common thing to feature.
I just blocked off my crossover, my quadrajet was boiling off the fuel because it gets too hot. Most oldsmobiles intakes get so hot they crack the intake the manifold. I changed nothing on the rochester, and it works great, i used a farmers choke. (Wrapped the exhaust manifold with copper pipe) The choke works great.
Aka the heat riser valve. My AMX originally had an Air Guard system, aka smog pump, that was removed at some point and the exhaust manifolds on it now don't have the air inlet ports. It also has Flowmaster mufflers and in the process, the heat riser valve was removed as well. I remember our '74 Hornet's heat riser valve was stuck open. It took us quite a while to free it up. Lots of Liquid Wrench and WD-40.
Tony.. Once again you are so right. How can anybody be so ignorant to the fact that gasoline needs heat to properly vaporize ? We are talking for a normal driver., not a strictly drag strip car.. I have found that anything below 80 degree outside air temp, you need intake manifold heat. and im sure that at that temp, and below, the car will be faster with intake heat... I have seen so many guys pull their hair out on a tuning issue, just because they set the street car up as a drag strip runner.... Anybody that wants to argue this point, look up Smokey Yunicks hot vapor engines. That should make you rethink all you thought you knew
Got a 76 highboy with manual choke, and a 77 lowboy with auto hot air choke. Both work fine. Manual is nice, but the autos work too if you fiddle around with them. I like to fiddle around...
I don't argue the fact that the heat passage will help driveability, but a manual choke allows the driver to adjust it as necessary until the engine is completely warmed up. My experience with automatic chokes is that they will not work as well as a manual choke for keeping the choke right where it needs to be during warmup. They usually don't open fast enough, causing the engine to run rich, and even flood sometimes.
When they open up too slowly, it usually means the vacuum break, (remote spring), or the vacuum piston, (choke housing on the carb), is not working. When it is working, it is more likely that it opens too soon.
@@jamesbosworth4191 This is why I abandoned automatic chokes altogether. A manual choke eliminates all those possible issues. The only downside is that the driver needs to learn how to operate a hand choke. For someone who is used to today's fuel injection, that can be a bit of a challenge.
Refridgeration was discovered when the first gasoline engine came about. Exprrimenting with fuel air mix, too much fuel to air, under vaccum created frost on the intake. Instant ice.
Tony i have used manual chokes for trucks as a way to keep running better when use on construction sites still do same end that your working for . I understand what your saying thanks for video
Tony, I think many people in the modern age don't appreciate the value of a heated inlet manifold. Back in the 1970's and 1980's, most straight-fours and straight-sixes (Australian and Japanese) had a water-heated inlet manifold-regardless of whether or not it had the hot-air copex tubing from the air-cleaner snout to the heat pick-up around the exhaust manifold. Anyway, I love your work.
If you have a stock carb, then yes I agree because like UTG said the stock carb needs the heat to work properly BUT if you have an aftermarket carb I don't think it its usefull. It's been proven that cold fuel makes more power, the old drag racers knew this. I'm interested in your thoughts, Why do you think a heated manifold is a good thing?
@@davidgalea6113 I never really needed power. I just wanted my car (whether it was an old six with a manual choke, or a four with an auto choke) to start easily on a cold morning and drive straight away. Especially with a three-speed manual transmission, you are using the engine through a wide rev-range. When the fuel is a mist, you lose a lot of it sticking to the cylinder walls (hence the need to richen the mixture until the fuel is vaporising). This impedes the combustibility of the air/fuel mixture and also dilutes the lubrication of the cylinders and pistons. Also, you need to change your engine oil every three months because it becomes contaminated/diluted with fuel. With the coolant circulating through the inlet manifold while the thermostat is closed, the air/fuel mixture is vaporising very soon after start-up and the car thanks you in so many ways. Of course with computerised fuel injection, none of it matters anymore. I very very miss the adorable single-barrel Stromberg. Fun fact: there were two different bases for the Strommy. If the car had an automatic transmission, the vacuum advance port was below the butterfly-there was vacuum advance at idle. If the car had a manual transmission, the port was just above the butterfly-no vacuum advance until you’re off idle.
Question Tony. Back in the day, I always had problems with the flapper valve in the exhaust manifold getting stuck in the closed position. I had great difficulty freeing them up. Penetrating oil, carburetor cleaner, heat, nothing seemed to work. I remember removing them and the car seemed to run overall better. They would rust and get carboned up and they were frozen. Is there a mechanics secret to freeing them up?
I was getting a lean bog at fast tip in to WOT ('93 K1500 350 TBI). Datalog with WBO2 information confirmed it. Strange thing was that it was only happening right after highway cruise. Slow driving tip in was not bogging. Come to find out, the aluminum intake manifold was cooling off too much at high speed and fuel was not staying vaporized in this situation. Plumbed coolant bypass through crossover under plenum and the problem was solved. Lean spike almost completely disappeared.
Would you please do a video about engine temps. Specifically cast iron heads. What temp do they run at or should run at and what is the max temp. Also temp sensors in the head vs intake. 160 thermostat - factory 190 and radiator cooling. You explain the how and why of engines very well. That is what I need in my brain!
I watched the other video. As soon as you passed the thermometer over the cross-over, I muttered "it's blocked". The vaporizing fuel is working just like refrigerant, changing from a liquid to a vapor. Absorbing heat.
Whenever I do a V8, I block off the exhaust crossover at the cylinder head. The intake still gets hot enough. Ive not had serious drivability issues at all. Its a little stubborn in winter but I no longer have vapor lock issues because I'm not boiling the daylights out of the carb.
Stock Ford 2100, 2150 and 4150 carburetors are easy to change to electric choke. The big difference between them and aftermarket carburetors is that the choke operates off 6 to7 volts from the alternator stator (center tap) terminal rather than a 12 volt source as used on aftermarket Holley as well as Edelbrock/Carter carburetors. Some Mopars had electric chokes from the factoy as well as GM Quadrajets.
Well said....You have been there back in the day and know the ends and outs.....sad thing is...the same people talking about putting a manuel choke on it only leads to other remedys under the hood and next thing you you have a hodge podge of ideas.....and then you have what you have that has not been basterdize.......the ol saying....I use to work on the old ones......is where the manual choke and other ideas come from and it leads to ALOT of other things on the car.
Hey Tony, while we are talking of carburetors, show us how to make that edelbrock blow through capable. I have the exact same one and want to try to do this :P
There is an additional problem with those exhaust bypass manifolds, that require those exhaust heat flappers. Those exhaust heat flappers, do have a tendency to get stuck in place after hundreds of heat cycles. Usually when it does get stuck, it is in the closed position and often after if the car has sat for a while. And that can have a detrimental effect on the over all performance of a engine, which would be like the old banana in the tail pipe gag or potato. Is why we often either cut the flapper out of the exhaust manifold if it was built into the manifold, or if it was not and was a bolt on to the stock manifold like some Chevy trucks had we just removed that bolt on flapper.
if you install a Holley double pumper on a performance oriented vehicle, you won't need a choke at all. Pump the throttle a few times to prime the carb and the engine will fire right up almost instantly every time. Then use the accelerator pedal to maintain a fast idle for a few minutes until the engine can return to curb idle on its on without stalling. Did this on my street driven bracket car without ever a hitch (I also used an electric fuel pump).
It is CRAZY how much heat vaporizing gasoline can remove from the system. I had a draw-through carb on a turbo inline 6 Ford. Weber carb, horizontally mounted on this cast piece that was then piped into the turbo inlet. Point being that the carb was quite far from any engine or exhaust heat. The cast manifold piece that was right after the carb would sometimes be so cold it would not only sweat like a beer can but occasionally it could get so cold that the sweat on the outside would be a thin layer of ice, like on the glass of a frozen margarita or daiquiri. This is in outdoor temperatures that were WELLLL above freezing, just like a nice spring day or typical room temp in my garage. Humidity was more of a factor it seemed. Similar thing can happen with small aircraft engines, the carbs can ice up and either clog totally or cause the engine to be suuuper rich, they have carb heat to help prevent it.
@@donreinke5863 Yeah, pretty much any stock engine had some method of intake heat, unless the manifold was already in a really hot position. Whether the cross-over like Tony is dealing with, a coolant loop, or the heat riser on most counterflow inline engines
@@X85283 Some smallblock Chevrolet engines actually had an exhaust crossover passage restrictor in the intake gaskets which was used on certain engines in certain models FelPro replacement gaskets came with a list of which engines and which side to install the restrictor., it was a tin plate with locking tabs. Engines which used those were especially prone to passage carboning.
Wow, I totally forgot all about those damned frozen exhaust flapper valves, fortunately most of the ones I found frozen were easily freed up with a little good old WD40 and a bunch of wiggling back and forth. Uncle Tony got all the tricks of the trade, and he remembers them too.😎
A VW Beetle without the heat riser tube connected is a extreme example of this where you can actually see frost form under the carb and they run like crap at low speed
I'm old enough to remember hack mechanics trying to 'fix' or 'tune' these cars, putting on a manual choke and acting like low speed drivability was for old people is how they coped for their lack of understanding.
I wish I knew this 45. years ago. I had a 318 manifold plug up so bad I took it off and blasted it out. A Chrysler tech rep told me it was caused by poor quality fuel. 1:27
Tony l remember when did a video on Plan Z, you were have tuning issues with it. You determined that being an inline 6 with headers which weren't connected to the bottom of the intake manifold and not transfering heat to the base of the manifold the fuel coming out of the carburetor wasn't vaporizing properly causing an tip-in hesitation, bog.If l remember right you fabricated a heat transfer and it got rid of the issue.
(Come to think of it, I think I meant to ask hearing that, given what you know, could a manual choke help diagnosis or maybe just confuse the issue. ) If I'd known you in the late 80s I'm sure you could have advised me about my Duster's Carter :eventually the choke puller went out and began doing nothing at all, and for some reason they wanted like half a week's pay for one so I put in the Mr. Gasket or whatever parts store blisterpack manual conversion. I did not want to throw money at a carb I intended to replace as soon as opportunity and expertise to ask what I might really want turned up. Since I hid the choke knob under the steering column it was also like three-season antitheft cause I could make the car not start at all unless someone knew how to operate that. :)
Great video Thx for it , one thing I noticed with my motor a 283 ( i know not Chryco ) stroked to 354 is that when using the stock cast intake or a aluminum high rise dual plane , the aluminum intake warms up much faster than the cast and starts way better , saying this because when I built the engine about ten years ago put the dual plane on it , then decided don't need the power put it as close to stock as I can went with the cast , there is a huge difference in start ability , is that because of the heat or because with the dual plane the carb is sitting a couple inchs higher before the fuel hits the runners , i'm thinking a 2 inch spacer won't hurt with the cast but what do you think , P.S it's the hated q-jet that i like almost as much as watching Raquel Welch jump rope 🙂
Good stuff as always, i would love to hear your advice on running a brawler type street strip carb with electric choke with aluminum heards and dual plane intake.. cam 8s a mild 274 xe.. my thinking was the elctric choke would help minimize street driving issues.. thanks
I prefer a manual choke on my vehicles, but I live in northern Canada where the temperature can vary so much. During the winter it can be -25 in the morning and -2 by the afternoon. To keep an automatic choke functioning properly one would be adjusting it twice per day. Especially during fall and spring seasons.
Tony! Help a bro out. 1965 GTO tripower. Vapor locking if it’s over 90 outside. Non a/c car and no return line so can’t do your filter trick. Should I weld the exhaust circulator shut?
Every car built is expected to operate normally in minus 50° Minnesota, and 120° Phoenix. Those engineers in the sixties were smarter than any of us.
Smart technology and computers seems to be bringing an age of flamboyant stupidity
I disagree, it's all heat management
As a far northeastern Minnesotan from up in the Arrowhead 15 miles from the Canadian border as the crows fly, I can confirm the -50° below zero. The WORST I have seen was more than -60° below zero. It's unknown how much colder than -60° it was because the official thermometer BROKE from the cold at -60°. That was cold enough that even though my truck started it didn't want to move because the fear lube in the transmission and rear end were too thick from the cold and I couldn't move the shifter.
@@greenbassboosts8872 tell that to the 3 goombas at work that spend 6 seconds reading something and suddenly they are an expert.
@@greenbassboosts8872 like a cyber truck that can't be driven in ankle deep water.
I wanna see that Road Runner come out of the Garage. Been waiting years for that.
YES!
It won't leave the garage until the coyote stops creeping around Tony's house!
Unfortunately, the problem with these comments is that people are not familiar with how old school tech works, and you do a great job explaining the basics of how these old systems work. For some it just doesn't have a place to plug it in.
Carburetors are a science and it takes a long time to master them. I'm 72 years old and I am still working on that phase.
I chuckled at the people who missed your point regarding the need for heat in the stock intake.
Thanks for the clarification 👌
no heat no vapour
When I got a car in 1985 first thing I did was throw away the stock air cleaner and bought a chrome "sandwich" I call them air cleaner with just a chrome top and bottom. Throw away the factory one with a heat tube. I left Milwaukee with a 130 miles to go with a full tank of watery gas and -20 deg. I barely mad it to a gas station to get some heet to pour in. The car barely ran but at least I knew what was wrong. The next summer I was in a bad storm driving on the interstate and my car just died. I coasted to a stop and waited for the rain to stop. The first thing some kid does who knows nothing about cars is take off the air cleaner to take a look. The thing weighed like 5 pounds and water was running out of it. I got lucky and threw the thing in the backseat and drove home. I went to the junk yard payed $1.50 for the original air cleaner with heat tube and threw away the shiny trinket.
Yes sir I knew from experience that, that was the cause of that choke not working properly. Uncle Tony would have really thrown folks for a loop if he went into the Thermo-Vac system that heats up the incoming air to the carburetor through the air filter assembly.
I might be one of those guys in the comments you mentioned but thank you for clearing up. All of the points you were trying to make I actually learned something. I'm 42 and I'm one of the only guys I know that works in the automotive industry still that we'll take apart a Carburetor most shops these days wouldn't even touch them. But thank you I learned something new. I never thought about it that way. This is knowledge only I got your age that grew up working on these vehicles Nose and I appreciate it
You're spot on Tony. I grew up in that very era as a mechanic and we dealt with these issues all of the time. Thanks for having the patience to explain things in a way that people can understand. You have a method to your madness that I understand. Keep up the great videos.
I was fascinated with yesterday's video, and totally got the lesson yesterday.
Over the years, I have just disabled the auto choke when it became problematic, and dealt with a few minutes of difficulty keeping it running (who needs a choke when you have an accelerator pump and know how to use it) in cold weather. One car stalled at the side of the road in the winter mountains, and the solution was moving the choke plate into the glove box for the remaining years I had that car ('81 olds custom cruiser diesel wagon with a different year engine out of a Firebird).
Yesterday evening I learned I should have been fixing the root cause, and would have enjoyed better fuel economy.
I've got 3 plugged 318 intakes buried in my back yard. Pretty sure that the stuff in it will eventually turn to diamonds if I leave it buried long enough.
That's a long term investment !
Carbon capture starts at the intake manifold!
better chance the steel decomposes and turns into diamonds before that carbon does. 🤪
@@throttlebottle5906 i have time
My comments on the last video were about cleaning a lot of intake exhaust passages when I worked for the Dodge dealer. Quite a few of the cars came in an had been changed to a manual choke, but they still had drivability problems. Cleaning the intake and make sure the flapper works along with proper carb adjustments always brought back good drivability. Also, the add on manual choke kits that were available in the 70's were really junk.
The ‘70’s choke conversion kits are far better than most of the garbage you can buy today though.
The late 60s early 70s 318 2bbl setup from the factory was one of the best engines for most power with less fuel I ever experienced. Huge cars had this relatively small engine and drove great and would get surprisingly good gas mileage if kept in factory tune. I would say the 1968 year model Fury was the prime example
what Tony just explained about the rapid fuel atomization such as doing a quarter mile pass. is a form of evaporative cooling. part of the intake manifold will remain cooler while the engine is running at a higher temperature. Think of it this way. When you're working on the carburetor or part of the fuel system such as disconnecting the fuel line at the float bowl or replacing a fuel filter. When you feel that bit of fuel leak out onto your hands when you're loosening a line fitting or taking off a filter, you feel a rapid cooling effect when the gas is evaporating off your skin. For any of us who had to take mechanics shop class in highschool, we were also taught that the fuel vapors can easily cause spontaneous combustion at room temperature where there is that gas vapor and oxygen get mixed together such as with soaked or dirty shop rags, a static electric charge can also ignite fuel vapors. Thought I should mention that because a few years back, I nearly destroyed my motorhome one early morning after the previous night of swapping carburetors, fixing the carb that I had to remove, swapping the fixed carb back onto my engine. By 4am I couldn't stay awake and I was too tired and didn't want to cross thread the fuel line to the float bowl. Few hours later I woke up and forgot about the loose line fitting. I started the engine and poof! had a fire right inside my motorhome!! I tossed the engine cover outside and put that bit of fire out, ran back into my RV, grabbed the ash pail from the wood stove and smothered the whole engine and put a gasoline fire out!! The only damage I had was a few sparkplug wires burnt, the wire to the carb choke and a couple of wires at the alternator. No big expense and I didn't get injured or end up losing my vehicle and home! It's too bad we didn't have youtube back in the 90's. I was doing things with a project car that drove my neighbors insane. Cops used to sit on the roadside near the end of my driveway in hopes of catching me driving with no plates on my car. I was arrested once after a short chase and had to go to court for it. I also had some serious anger or rage issues particularly with the druggies stealing from several of us in the neighborhood. Oh how I miss all the good times back then!
Yes sir and if you spill some gasoline on your skin in real cold weather it will actually burn you because the liquid is turning into a vapor and releasing its heat. When the bottom of the carburetor is sweating it is actually acting as an evaporator in an air conditioner and transferring engine heat into the air and sweating just like an evaporator on a hot day. People who work in the air conditioning industry will understand that.
Great with the atomization versus vaporization visualization, appreciation.
2:47 To get technical that "Flapper Valve" is called a heat riser.
I always listen to the older guys that have shown they know their stuff!!
Thanks Tony!!
When you do take the intake off the Barracuda, can you do a short video of the blockage within the heat passage? I think it would be interesting to see as some may think "its just some carbon, use some gummout or something" not realizing that all that time, heat, and buildup actually causes something that is not possible to remove with just some spray chemical of some sort.
I second that...
That would be helpful. I've got the same crud in a 302 sbf egr crossover. Can't use oven cleaner because the intake is aluminum.
Uncle T - you the man. thanks for education. Keep going. show before and after clearly..
You said you wanted a "Daily Driver" hence the wait for the proper intake to correct the problem and type of intake. Neat "Daily Driver" for sure.
I’ve experienced this problem in the 70s but not know the cause. I mistook the rich running plugs for an early sign of ring wear and gave up and changed plugs a lot. Good one mate.
Here in Australia the 318 heavy duty engines come with a coolant crossover.
They did this due the high rpm that the engines would see and maintained for long periods of time and it was to remove as much heat from the two side by side exhaust valves and ports.
The exhaust valve stem seals are important for slowing down the carbon buildup too.
A Milwaukee inferred camera on the engine in the Barracuda would be good to show before and after manifold change.
It’s a good visual representation.
See if you can lend one ☝️
Keep up the good work Tony.
Love to see a photo of that
Have to love UTG uses the 68 Roadrunner trunk lid for a helmet rack 😊
I think people didn't understand previously that the choke not coming off completely was a symptom of the problem, but not the cause of the problem. That's why they were suggesting a manual choke, etc.
Thanks for the whole explanation of the intake manifold heat. I was just concentrating on getting the choke to open.
Uncle Tony, love the underlying values you adhere to when it comes to classic era cars, work with what you've got and do as much as you can yourself. That's my mantra as well. I found this particular clip interesting as I have a slight hesitation, stumble at part throttle on my 67 Barracuda 273 Commando. Gonna look into this further. I couldn't help but notice that on the 383 you focused on today you have the vacuum advance on the dizzy plugged into manifold vacuum, I thought this was a no no...?
Explain carburetor icing and what causes it. Fascinating phenomenon.
I grew up in So. Cal. where chokes usually just caused problems, same cars with chokes deleted probably wouldn't start in a Minnesota winter. Engineers didn't build cars for "car people" they built them for those who never looked under the hood.
Absolutely correct about the drivability problems. I had the same thing with an old Pontiac 400 and I think the carbon in the crossover was about two steps away from becoming diamond.
I replace the manifold from the start.
Heat riser regulated by a bi-metal coil.🤪Good video man.
Old, severely worn out heat-riser valves will leak exhaust gasses, causing a ticking pft pft pft pft sound under acceleration which may cause some problems with smooth engine operation when four of the cylinders on one side of the engine have less back pressure than the other four. Also, check for cracks and leaks in the vacuum advance hose....since it's difficult to adjust the engine timing and set an idle speed when the timing is jumping all over from inconsistent vacuum pressure. I bought a heat-riser rebuilt kit for my 1 ton '77 Dodge van 318 and brought the exhaust manifold to a machine shop where they bore the flapper valve pin holes oversize for the new kit. Really makes a nice improvement in overall engine performance and a quieter engine.
Haven’t thought of heat riser valves in a long time.
I’m sure not many younger than fifty have ever heard of terms like choke stove and EFE early fuel evaporation heater grids and choke pull off diaphrams.
Our right feet sure got a workout back then feathering the gas pedal when the engine was cold.
Most haven't. They only know about EFI and the squirters in those systems.
Even with aftermarket carbs lack of heat can be an issue, especially on Inline 6 engines. I’ve got a hopped up 300 ford with a edelbrock 500 cfm. Ran great year round with the stock log exhaust manifold, with the heat riser and flapper, even in -30 Iowa. Threw headers in 2 years ago and anytime the temp drops more than 20 degrees I’ve gotta go one step richer, or it hucks and bucks down low. Heat is your friend for daily’s people!
Yup, a cold intake is ideal only for racing. For the street, heat is good, cold is bad. On a V8 with a water cross-over in the manifold, you can get away without exhaust heat, but if you don't have a water cross-over, as is the case with 6 cyl and straight 8s, you will not be happy unless you have heat.
Yes, sir on the Chevrolet 235 engines that people modify either with hears or even a split exhaust the ability to heat up the base of the carburetor is compromised, and fellows would plumb engine coolant to the underside of the intake in order to heat up the base of the carburetor.
@@billywird That's what I had to do with my Chevy 292 - dual carbs and split exhaust manifold.
I just run lean as I can, let it idle a couple of minutes, and then go like I'm on fire.
Actually its not a race car, its an old farm truck, so I actually DON'T "go like I'm on fire."
I set my truck up for the absolute leanest burn possible.
Also, even while dinkering with the rods and jets, I think it runs too fat at the top end, so I try to keep my foot out of it and stay below 60 mph so I don't suck down fuel like a leaking gas tank.
When I rebuild my 392, my goal is 25 mpg.
Right now, with 2 weak cylinders, likely worn cam lobes, a period of piston slap, some weak hydraulic lifters and an excessively high stall torque converter, I'm only getting about 12.5 mpg.
I have no worries of getting to 25 mpg, especially if I can mate up one of those A518s or some other motor with an overdrive and a locking converter.
Cleared stuff up for me.
Up here in the Great White North winter driving is impossible without the crossover heat. Sitting on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck in -35C weather with the venturies of your carb closed off with ice is not a lot of fun. Both the crossover and exhaust heat riser valve have to be working. The big thing to look for with the flapper is whether it is free to move. They have a tendency to seize and usually in a closed position. If this happens at the same time as a plugged crossover the exhaust from the right side of the engine has nowhere to go. Try driving with a potatoe stuffed up the exhaust!
Yes, sir that is exactly what the automotive manufacturers (actually all engine manufacturers) have learned over the one hundred and twenty plus years of development.
Hey Tony this is not about this video . But I thought of ya . Check out Ben Alameda video "going real fast with simple stuff" it talks about switching the pistons so the offset is reversed like you talked about and some people made comments "engine master boys" this proves you were right ! 😊 if they try and dismiss ol Ben . They better set back and look at his resume !
Ah remember the “good ole days” of the electric heater gasket under GM carbs on v6’s.
I barely have an idea of what Uncle Tony is talking about. I find it interesting nonetheless.
I forgot about that exhaust flapper. With all that good explaining you forgot to mention how much a divorced intake manifold (a manifold where the bottom of the runners is not also the lifter valley tray) amplifies the cold running nature of the manifold. But hey, excellent work !!
Learned alot once again ut!
Every time Uncle Tony gets into carbs, I think I have drivability and horsepower left on the table.
My head hurts now .
I know how you're feeling I wish I could just drive over to Tony's and have him adjust my carburetor and timing for me I know I have a close but he'd be right on
I know the effects of what my 66 Ford running a 180 degree thermostat had. I rebuilt the inline 6 and added a Offy intake and small 390 cfm Holley with a RV style cam and header. Truck ran rich all the time and would stumble off idle even after setting timing and using a vacuum gauge to adjust carb. I bumped up to a 190 or 195 " I can't remember which". That extra intake heat made all the difference in a crisp throttle off idle and cleaner burn thru exhaust. I get it UT! I learned by mistake.
I say fix it right or not at all! I love your way Toney.
I ran a manual choke in my old 1982 Mustang GT after I converted it to a Holley 4V, and a few times I'd forget to open it up, and it would run like crap till I opened it up and drove a few more miles. My crossover was active underneath, but I filled the EGR port on that intake manifold's (OEM '85 Mustang 5.0) carb mounting face with JB Weld.
It would have been easier just to put a little ball bearing in the vacuum line.
I know exactly what uncle Tony is talking about. I've got a d200 with a 400. I blocked off crossover and put a edelbrock 4 barrel on it. It bogs when it's cold, takes a good bit to run smooth when it's completely warmed up, it runs great and has more power.
The fact that it bogs until well warmed up is what many people would object to, but yes, once well warmed up, will indeed have more power.
And I bet you don't have any vapor lock!!!
No vapor lock so far!
The reason I blocked off the crossover was the carb would heat soak and boil over, even when running. Even after I welded open the flapper in the manifold. I put a insulator spacer under the carb, blocked the crossover.
Thanks for the previous video, and for this one. Because I'm an idiot, I hadn't thought of just using an infrared thermometer to check to see whether the intake manifold heat crossover was clogged or not.
On my '60 Buick's 401 with about 50k miles on it, I finally decided to check the exhaust manifold heat crossover butterfly valve. After reading through the manual, I realized that this valve really needed to work, and that it might be seized. Yeah, the manual had to tell me. But hey, that's what manuals are for, right? RTFM.
But because of this, I started banging on the butterfly counterweight, and realized that, yep, the butterfly valve was seized. And because of that, I suddenly realized that my poor dual-exhaust 401 was just a single-exhaust.
"Damn", I thought.
Well, after a few days of spraying the crap outta that thing with every penetrating oil I could find, and whacking it to death with a dead-blow hammer and a long-ass old socket extension, it finally started to move (the counterweight isn't round, like it is on this valve, but is bowtie-shaped, so it's easy to whack at). After a lot more percussve persuasion, it was *finally* freed up. I was really afraid I was gonna break the valve, or the shaft, or the spring, or crack the manifold. But I didn't.
"Damn", I thought.
Then I went through the carburetor adjustments, and finally started her up from cold, and what an amazing difference it made. Fired right up, idled great, tapped the accelerator and it kicked down perfectly and purred at 800RPM or whatever. Different engine; different car!
"Damn!" I said.
*Then* I took her on the road.
"Hot damn!" I said.
Beautiful throttle response, wonderful acceleration, awesome torques, and many more horsepowers.
Unless you're really tinkering and modifying, make it all work like the engineers designed it, and you won't be sorry. (As long as you don't break stuff, which, luckily, I didn't).
When I was a mechanic for over 20 years I just put a electric choke in its place to save customers a lot of money. Manual chokes are not smog legal. Tony is 100% correct he was talking about drivability issues ,the choke issues is a side effect I never met a Chrysler that did not have a plugged up crossover
I fully agree with you and Tony, but most of the manifolds I've seen plugged up were small block Chevys.
@@61rampy65I was just going to say that.
Ive been repairing cars for 52 years, and I never gave a damn about "smog legal" anything. I had and still have six ways to Sunday to cheat emission tests and I use them.
@@donreinke5863 Sir I was a smog mechanic in California. the underground cover cars came through all the shops on a regular basis. I knew the EPA Undercovers man's by name. And we would talk about how many people were going to jail for that week. So give it a try if you think you can get away with it.
@@donreinke5863 which state is this each state has different emission laws I had to run mine on dinos
Carburetors like the Rochester 2GC and 4GC with an iron throttle section had a heat channel just below and adjacent to the throttle plates. They put that there for a reason.
I like those carbs better.
Never did care for them old Barracuda's back in the day (probably same age you are) but they have started to grow on me as I've aged, would love to see a series of videos of you (or you're Ozzie buddy) rebuilding the thing and making a custom hot rod out of it!!!! That would be so cool!!
Yeah it runs rich, Grandson saying "Grandpa I love the way your truck drifts" Priceless!
When I read the comments about solving the problem with a manual choke I knew right off that the commenter did not know what you were talking about.
It would be great to see an Uncle Tony/Scotty Kilmer collaboration video or guest spot! Different focus for each normally, but I'm sure there could be a common thing to feature.
For more info, look up the latent heat of vaporization. This is how your air conditioner works and it is how you cool yourself.
My initial thought was not to add a manual choke, it was that I wished I had known this info when I was young so I did not have to add a manual choke.
I just blocked off my crossover, my quadrajet was boiling off the fuel because it gets too hot. Most oldsmobiles intakes get so hot they crack the intake the manifold. I changed nothing on the rochester, and it works great, i used a farmers choke. (Wrapped the exhaust manifold with copper pipe) The choke works great.
Aka the heat riser valve. My AMX originally had an Air Guard system, aka smog pump, that was removed at some point and the exhaust manifolds on it now don't have the air inlet ports. It also has Flowmaster mufflers and in the process, the heat riser valve was removed as well. I remember our '74 Hornet's heat riser valve was stuck open. It took us quite a while to free it up. Lots of Liquid Wrench and WD-40.
Tony.. Once again you are so right. How can anybody be so ignorant to the fact that gasoline needs heat to properly vaporize ? We are talking for a normal driver., not a strictly drag strip car.. I have found that anything below 80 degree outside air temp, you need intake manifold heat. and im sure that at that temp, and below, the car will be faster with intake heat... I have seen so many guys pull their hair out on a tuning issue, just because they set the street car up as a drag strip runner.... Anybody that wants to argue this point, look up Smokey Yunicks hot vapor engines. That should make you rethink all you thought you knew
My crossover was blocked off too but I found the hot air intake from my stock air cleaner made it driveable until warmed up
Got a 76 highboy with manual choke, and a 77 lowboy with auto hot air choke. Both work fine. Manual is nice, but the autos work too if you fiddle around with them. I like to fiddle around...
I think you may have found the issue with my 70 Fury! I'll be in the garage... 😁
I don't argue the fact that the heat passage will help driveability, but a manual choke allows the driver to adjust it as necessary until the engine is completely warmed up. My experience with automatic chokes is that they will not work as well as a manual choke for keeping the choke right where it needs to be during warmup. They usually don't open fast enough, causing the engine to run rich, and even flood sometimes.
When they open up too slowly, it usually means the vacuum break, (remote spring), or the vacuum piston, (choke housing on the carb), is not working. When it is working, it is more likely that it opens too soon.
@@jamesbosworth4191 This is why I abandoned automatic chokes altogether. A manual choke eliminates all those possible issues. The only downside is that the driver needs to learn how to operate a hand choke. For someone who is used to today's fuel injection, that can be a bit of a challenge.
Refridgeration was discovered when the first gasoline engine came about. Exprrimenting with fuel air mix, too much fuel to air, under vaccum created frost on the intake. Instant ice.
Tony i have used manual chokes for trucks as a way to keep running better when use on construction sites still do same end that your working for . I understand what your saying thanks for video
Tony, I think many people in the modern age don't appreciate the value of a heated inlet manifold. Back in the 1970's and 1980's, most straight-fours and straight-sixes (Australian and Japanese) had a water-heated inlet manifold-regardless of whether or not it had the hot-air copex tubing from the air-cleaner snout to the heat pick-up around the exhaust manifold. Anyway, I love your work.
If you have a stock carb, then yes I agree because like UTG said the stock carb needs the heat to work properly BUT if you have an aftermarket carb I don't think it its usefull. It's been proven that cold fuel makes more power, the old drag racers knew this. I'm interested in your thoughts, Why do you think a heated manifold is a good thing?
@@davidgalea6113 I never really needed power. I just wanted my car (whether it was an old six with a manual choke, or a four with an auto choke) to start easily on a cold morning and drive straight away. Especially with a three-speed manual transmission, you are using the engine through a wide rev-range.
When the fuel is a mist, you lose a lot of it sticking to the cylinder walls (hence the need to richen the mixture until the fuel is vaporising). This impedes the combustibility of the air/fuel mixture and also dilutes the lubrication of the cylinders and pistons. Also, you need to change your engine oil every three months because it becomes contaminated/diluted with fuel.
With the coolant circulating through the inlet manifold while the thermostat is closed, the air/fuel mixture is vaporising very soon after start-up and the car thanks you in so many ways. Of course with computerised fuel injection, none of it matters anymore.
I very very miss the adorable single-barrel Stromberg. Fun fact: there were two different bases for the Strommy. If the car had an automatic transmission, the vacuum advance port was below the butterfly-there was vacuum advance at idle. If the car had a manual transmission, the port was just above the butterfly-no vacuum advance until you’re off idle.
Question Tony. Back in the day, I always had problems with the flapper valve in the exhaust manifold getting stuck in the closed position. I had great difficulty freeing them up. Penetrating oil, carburetor cleaner, heat, nothing seemed to work. I remember removing them and the car seemed to run overall better. They would rust and get carboned up and they were frozen. Is there a mechanics secret to freeing them up?
I was getting a lean bog at fast tip in to WOT ('93 K1500 350 TBI). Datalog with WBO2 information confirmed it.
Strange thing was that it was only happening right after highway cruise. Slow driving tip in was not bogging.
Come to find out, the aluminum intake manifold was cooling off too much at high speed and fuel was not staying vaporized in this situation.
Plumbed coolant bypass through crossover under plenum and the problem was solved. Lean spike almost completely disappeared.
Would you please do a video about engine temps. Specifically cast iron heads. What temp do they run at or should run at and what is the max temp. Also temp sensors in the head vs intake. 160 thermostat - factory 190 and radiator cooling. You explain the how and why of engines very well. That is what I need in my brain!
I watched the other video. As soon as you passed the thermometer over the cross-over, I muttered "it's blocked". The vaporizing fuel is working just like refrigerant, changing from a liquid to a vapor. Absorbing heat.
Whenever I do a V8, I block off the exhaust crossover at the cylinder head. The intake still gets hot enough. Ive not had serious drivability issues at all. Its a little stubborn in winter but I no longer have vapor lock issues because I'm not boiling the daylights out of the carb.
Stock Ford 2100, 2150 and 4150 carburetors are easy to change to electric choke. The big difference between them and aftermarket carburetors is that the choke operates off 6 to7 volts from the alternator stator (center tap) terminal rather than a 12 volt source as used on aftermarket Holley as well as Edelbrock/Carter carburetors.
Some Mopars had electric chokes from the factoy as well as GM Quadrajets.
Great vid, definitely hits home
Well said....You have been there back in the day and know the ends and outs.....sad thing is...the same people talking about putting a manuel choke on it only leads to other remedys under the hood and next thing you you have a hodge podge of ideas.....and then you have what you have that has not been basterdize.......the ol saying....I use to work on the old ones......is where the manual choke and other ideas come from and it leads to ALOT of other things on the car.
I wonder what Plymouth’s reasoning was for having a 2 barrel single plane intake manifold? It’s pretty cool regardless!
Lower engine height, so that it could fit under the hood of the smallest cars.
Hey Tony, while we are talking of carburetors, show us how to make that edelbrock blow through capable. I have the exact same one and want to try to do this :P
There is an additional problem with those exhaust bypass manifolds, that require those exhaust heat flappers. Those exhaust heat flappers, do have a tendency to get stuck in place after hundreds of heat cycles. Usually when it does get stuck, it is in the closed position and often after if the car has sat for a while. And that can have a detrimental effect on the over all performance of a engine, which would be like the old banana in the tail pipe gag or potato. Is why we often either cut the flapper out of the exhaust manifold if it was built into the manifold, or if it was not and was a bolt on to the stock manifold like some Chevy trucks had we just removed that bolt on flapper.
I did this many times while working at the Chrysler dealership.
Always enjoy your info and nature. You make me miss my dad even more than i do already. GOD bless you and uncle cathy and your family
if you install a Holley double pumper on a performance oriented vehicle, you won't need a choke at all. Pump the throttle a few times to prime the carb and the engine will fire right up almost instantly every time. Then use the accelerator pedal to maintain a fast idle for a few minutes until the engine can return to curb idle on its on without stalling. Did this on my street driven bracket car without ever a hitch (I also used an electric fuel pump).
It is CRAZY how much heat vaporizing gasoline can remove from the system. I had a draw-through carb on a turbo inline 6 Ford. Weber carb, horizontally mounted on this cast piece that was then piped into the turbo inlet. Point being that the carb was quite far from any engine or exhaust heat.
The cast manifold piece that was right after the carb would sometimes be so cold it would not only sweat like a beer can but occasionally it could get so cold that the sweat on the outside would be a thin layer of ice, like on the glass of a frozen margarita or daiquiri. This is in outdoor temperatures that were WELLLL above freezing, just like a nice spring day or typical room temp in my garage. Humidity was more of a factor it seemed.
Similar thing can happen with small aircraft engines, the carbs can ice up and either clog totally or cause the engine to be suuuper rich, they have carb heat to help prevent it.
That is why Ford FE series engines commonly had a factory carb spacer heated by engine coolant
@@donreinke5863 Yeah, pretty much any stock engine had some method of intake heat, unless the manifold was already in a really hot position. Whether the cross-over like Tony is dealing with, a coolant loop, or the heat riser on most counterflow inline engines
@@X85283 Some smallblock Chevrolet engines actually had an exhaust crossover passage restrictor in the intake gaskets which was used on certain engines in certain models
FelPro replacement gaskets came with a list of which engines and which side to install the restrictor., it was a tin plate with locking tabs. Engines which used those were especially prone to passage carboning.
Great video...Very informative...
Wow, I totally forgot all about those damned frozen exhaust flapper valves, fortunately most of the ones I found frozen were easily freed up with a little good old WD40 and a bunch of wiggling back and forth.
Uncle Tony got all the tricks of the trade, and he remembers them too.😎
Ok cool I watching and learning I have never seen this in the uk
A VW Beetle without the heat riser tube connected is a extreme example of this where you can actually see frost form under the carb and they run like crap at low speed
Hey tony can we talk about the road runner again?? Would be cool to see you do a few runs with it.
I'm old enough to remember hack mechanics trying to 'fix' or 'tune' these cars, putting on a manual choke and acting like low speed drivability was for old people is how they coped for their lack of understanding.
Thank you I learned stuff
I wish I knew this 45. years ago. I had a 318 manifold plug up so bad I took it off and blasted it out. A Chrysler tech rep told me it was caused by poor quality fuel.
1:27
I never run cut rate fuel and have not had a problem since.
Tony l remember when did a video on Plan Z, you were have tuning issues with it. You determined that being an inline 6 with headers which weren't connected to the bottom of the intake manifold and not transfering heat to the base of the manifold the fuel coming out of the carburetor wasn't vaporizing properly causing an tip-in hesitation, bog.If l remember right you fabricated a heat transfer and it got rid of the issue.
(Come to think of it, I think I meant to ask hearing that, given what you know, could a manual choke help diagnosis or maybe just confuse the issue. )
If I'd known you in the late 80s I'm sure you could have advised me about my Duster's Carter :eventually the choke puller went out and began doing nothing at all, and for some reason they wanted like half a week's pay for one so I put in the Mr. Gasket or whatever parts store blisterpack manual conversion. I did not want to throw money at a carb I intended to replace as soon as opportunity and expertise to ask what I might really want turned up. Since I hid the choke knob under the steering column it was also like three-season antitheft cause I could make the car not start at all unless someone knew how to operate that. :)
Great video Thx for it , one thing I noticed with my motor a 283 ( i know not Chryco ) stroked to 354 is that when using the stock cast intake or a aluminum high rise dual plane , the aluminum intake warms up much faster than the cast and starts way better , saying this because when I built the engine about ten years ago put the dual plane on it , then decided don't need the power put it as close to stock as I can went with the cast , there is a huge difference in start ability , is that because of the heat or because with the dual plane the carb is sitting a couple inchs higher before the fuel hits the runners , i'm thinking a 2 inch spacer won't hurt with the cast but what do you think , P.S it's the hated q-jet that i like almost as much as watching Raquel Welch jump rope 🙂
Fix it the way you want to its your car...keep living the dream ✨️
Good stuff as always, i would love to hear your advice on running a brawler type street strip carb with electric choke with aluminum heards and dual plane intake.. cam 8s a mild 274 xe.. my thinking was the elctric choke would help minimize street driving issues.. thanks
Great explanation U.T.. Just curious; what is the setup GM and Ford use, if any, that is different from the stock Mopar crossover?
I prefer a manual choke on my vehicles, but I live in northern Canada where the temperature can vary so much. During the winter it can be -25 in the morning and -2 by the afternoon. To keep an automatic choke functioning properly one would be adjusting it twice per day. Especially during fall and spring seasons.
Here in USA it can get that cold and colder!!!
Had to cold start my diesel with -30f this past winter.
That's great! Was it difficult adjusting the choke on your diesel?
@@1996slamster Diesels don't have chokes.
WHAAAATT!!! Real talk?!
Tony you should be proud that I didn't say anything about that fuel filter. I knew that you already knew LOL
Great explanation. I thought both videos were clear and interesting on this issue.
Yeah I knew yesterday’s video was gonna stir up the hornets nest in the comments. You had some good replies to the know it alls 👍
The Way of the GEARHEAD MONK...
Learn it, live it,,,
Tony! Help a bro out. 1965 GTO tripower. Vapor locking if it’s over 90 outside. Non a/c car and no return line so can’t do your filter trick. Should I weld the exhaust circulator shut?
Raygun 🏆🏆🏆👍👍👍
Factory aluminum manifold. Aluminum transfers heat better. Best off to block the crossover? Even for a driver car?
You can give it an Italiano tune-up with Berrymens. I have seen it done, and it worked at least 50 times. Punish the neighborhood!