Toyota Tacoma 4WD Transfer Case Actuator - Dissection and Explanation (HOW TO FIX)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ม.ค. 2021
- Don’t forget to reset the 4WD ECU when you mount the new actuator on- this will allow the system to get on the same page with itself and orient itself properly. I believe this information can be found online. The ECU is behind the glove box.
Here is the video demonstrating how to remove the transfer case actuator: • Toyota Tacoma/Tundra T...
I believe this is the same actuator for a way cheaper price than I’ve ever seen: www.amazon.com/Compatible-Tra...
I got mine from here: www.ebay.com/itm/193853917933 - เพลง
When you said just to right of center of bolt whole, you made a minor mistake, when you flip that case over it should be just LEFT of center of bolt hole. But man you really helped me.. thx! Mine was in two wheel drive, so I line up the two wheel drive position. About to test mine now!!
Good luck! Any update?
@@DirtBikes_MathGarden Ok, I could move the shaft freely, so I pushed it forward into transfer case. That's 2WD. I lined up the contacts for all three positions and made gray pen marks on the outside of the casing. After I hooked it all up, I turned on the key, put it in neutral, and the 4LO, indicator and button were flashing. So that means the contacts were in the 4LO position but the shaft was in the 2WD position. I did not touch any buttons at this time. I raised the truck back up on lift, removed cover, removed small gear, rotated contacts to other position that's not in the middle (4HI). reassembled and everything works great. I bought my unit from Amazon, $167. I did notice the inside coiled spring was set up backwards from OEM. but that did not make a difference. It was your insight on matching contacts with one of the three positions needed.. thx again.
@@Fishin_Fixin_things that is awesome! Congratulations on the success. Glad I could help!
I busted mine banging on it with a hammer but covered it immediately........but my question is regarding the two grey harnesses, are one of those the transfer case switch?
I believe one is the transfer switch, and the other is the position indicator!!
I did all of this shit on the side of a trail, 20 miles into the woods in the pouring rain laying in the mud, and it worked! You arguably saved my life bro. Thank you so much.
Dude, that is a legendary level of savagery! Stoked I could help you in that way. Cheers to that one.
Dude, the dealer quoted me $4,200 for this repair and my local mechanic quoted me about $1,700. I replaced it myself in 30 min for the cost of a can of grease. 4WD went from flashing indicator of death to working perfectly. Thank you so much.
That’s what I made this video for! Stoked you got that much value out of it. Congrats!
Did you clean it, or just replace the whole actuator?
@@eanibarra8019 @eanibarra8019 I cleaned out the gunk and corrosion, lightly sanded the contacts down until they were shiny, put a thin layer of dielectric grease on the contacts, and reassembled it. It still works great. The worm gear on mine was pretty rusty so I also brushed that out as much as I could.
@@eanibarra8019 @eanibarra8019 I cleaned out the gunk and corrosion, lightly sanded the contacts down until they were shiny, put a thin layer of dielectric grease on the contacts, and reassembled it. Still works great. The worm gear in mine was pretty rusty so I brushed that out as much as I could.
@@eanibarra8019 I cleaned all the gunk and corrosion out, lightly sanded the contacts until they were shiny, and covered them in a thin layer of dielectric grease. The worm gear in mine was pretty rusty so I brushed that out as much as I could. It's still working great.
Two years later from first viewing your video I am back to working on my Tacoma. Best video on the transfer actuator.
Appreciate that !!
Fellow TH-camr here. THIS IS LEGIT!!!!!!! I did not even buy another cap/t.case. I took mine off and the water intrusion had hardened the dielectric grease. I cleaned it with Electronics spray and towel to remove the hardened grease. INSTANT 4x4 functionality!!!!!! Mannnnnnnn I have been without 4 wheel drive for over a year. THIS VIDEO SAVED MY BUTT!!!
I’m stoked for you!! This made my day!
2 years later and still the best explanation out there ! Thank you for taking the time to make this !
I appreciate your comment! Cheers.
Thank you thank you thank you! There’s so much misinformation on this actuator, even from seasoned mechanics showing off their Snap On tools ohming out all six terminals and telling you to buy a new transfer case cause the actuators are spring loaded and the actuators ruined once removed……You made this soo simple! I can’t thank you enough.
That's what I'm talkin' about! So glad I could help you. The misinformation surrounding this device is certainly thick.
You're a life saver on that detail on what position to set the gear for the different gears. There's probably other videos but I don't want to keep digging while I'm laying under my truck lol
This video helped so much, my rear drive shaft dropped at the yoke to the manual transmission and smashed the transfer case but of course it didn't fail till I was in Snow storm traveling across country, mechanic did this method to save me money on labor but they didn't align the gears in the brand new transfer case properly..... You have Saved me time and money , I would like to buy you a beer for your efforts
I appreciate ya Ryan, glad I could help. Beer is good!
Best video I have seen for this. Had the blinking 4wd and your explanation of cleaning it and how to set it back in fixed the issue! Looked for weeks on the fix, and this solved right away! Huge help!
I love to hear it! Congrats on the fox. Cheers.
Excellent video young man! I don't have a problem with mine but always want to know how these systems work. My vent tube was starting to split so I cut a little and reinstalled. Will keep an eye on it in the coming years. Thanks for making this video!
Good informative video. Just got through a few day of 4WD travel due to snow. It all thawed out and went to take my Sequoia out of 4HI and ended up getting stuck in 4 Low. Hopefully this video will be my savior. Thank you!
Make sure you check that your air hose is connected to the actuator. If it’s not, snow could have gotten inside and fried the electrical interior, as watery-mud did with mine. Cheers and good luck!
Same thing just happened today it got stuck in 4L. I hit it with a peace of wood and didn't do anything it took me over a hour to get it in 4H. Unplugged everything then plugged it back in and finally when I was ready to give up I thought about when I start my truck I have to push the clutch to the floor so the sensor works so I did that when I put it back in 4H and it worked. So if someone has a standard try pushing the clutch to the floor. I have a 08 Tacoma
Just chiming in here, you helped me fix my 4WD in my 2009 DCLB! Dude thanks so much, it switches so fast now. I went with an Amazon part for $275.
Oh, also my part shipped in 4H and I was stuck in 2H. I had to install/reinstall a few times to get the orientation correct and reset the 4WD ECU each time but it was really simple thanks to this video.
That is awesome Derek. Nice job! Glad I could help.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. My actuator skipped timing on my Tundra and your explanation helped me put it back on timed correctly. Part is probably growing weak so I’ll likely replace at least the cap and plastic toothed wheel but this confirmed it for me. Thanks again!
That’s awesome man. Glad it helped.
Thanks for this break down . I was truly not willing to deal with fixing it method. But I was curious of how it worked.
Thanks man for taking the time to make the video(commenting from another video), however my 3rd gen actuator is totally different, but I was able to figure out how to get the gear timing set correctly and put everything back together without having to crack the transfer case. It only takes two tools (a Phillips screwdriver and a wrench) which I will now keep in my truck just in case. Now it works better than it ever has. Maybe I should post a video for others?
Shoot I’d say go right ahead and post a video! I’m interested in seeing myself...
That was a great help most mechanics dont have a clue even my local toyota dealer said the only way to fix that is pull the transfer case thank you
That's awesome to hear! Happy to help.
awesome insight, thanks for taking the time to upload the video.
Thanks. This is what I was looking for and now my 4wd is working. Great job explaining
Thanks- glad to help!
Wow thanks for sharing this video I was able to set it up by moving the gear bit by bit. Till the light stopped blinking and the 4x4 and rear differential lock works flawlessly. Happy camper here. Dealership wanted $3400.00 to fix.......... crazy. Got a 2001 toyota 4runner Limited that works great now.
That’s awesome! Glad I could help!
Great job with the video and explanation. I may be doing this on my daughters 4Runner.
Thank you! Good luck with that sir.
I got it, I can understand the workings of the diabolical engineers. Your explanation is a little hard to follow but I hung with it and I can see it in my head. I have an '07 having trouble going into 4 Low but now I have some knowledge. Now I have power. Thanks.
Thanks for the time and effort put into the video. I have a 2005 Tundra and I have replaced both actuators; but having trouble with this rear one. Just needed to see what position and direction of travel to set it all up and you video was great for that.
That's what it's here for! Glad I could help you fix your Tundra. Cheers.
Thanks for the video. Dealing with a similar issue now. My hose on the outside was disconnected and I'm pretty sure the inside is now all corroded.
That’s unfortunate but I can sure relate. Good luck man. Feel free to keep me updated on that
Thanks buddy, this thing was giving me a terrible lashes ,thanks again from Guyana.
this video is gold, thanks!
Thanks dude! I was literally getting depressed. Thought it was the add so i went through that whole debacle and the light was still on and stuck in 4x4 the dealership wanted a redic amount and said the transfer case had to be split.. I ended up replacing just the plastic cap with the tracks and electric motor and all is good 👍 hopefully everything stays good. Again thanks for the help!!
That’s an epic story! I’ve been in that exact spot and it is depressing! So glad to have helped. I honestly don’t even think the Toyota technicians / mechanics have this figure out because they always say they’ll have to pull and split the transfer case. This is what the internet is all about!
I think you have to split the case if you want to remove the whole assembly with the shift rod. Because there is like a detent lock up setup inside and if you just try and yank the rod out or shove a new one in you will do damage and screw stuff up possibly toasting the actual transfer case or at the least the actuator.
THIS HELPED ME SO MUCH. THANK YOU!
LOVE TO HEAR IT!
Very well explained, thank you
Thank you for sharing really helped!!
Good video man. This is a much better design than the newer 3rd gen trucks. Plus the two detection switches (the grey 2-wire connectors on top of the big hex nuts) *should* be able to be removed and cleaned separately of the entire assembly, if that need ever arose for some reason. A point of note: right around 20:16 it looks like you are missing one of the three small bolts holding the triangle cover plate on. Would be a bummer is you get more water in the brand new actuator.
I fixed my 4runner by your great video
Awesomeness!
Thanks for your effort to help us.
Well this is way better than taking the whole transfer case down
Hi. Got a 2008 (second gen) toyota tacoma 4wd V6. Problem was 4x4 was intermittent (especially in wet weather) and unreliable going from 2wd to 4wd. Did that for about a couple years but then all of a sudden it's stuck in 4wd. Read all the posts about the front ADD actuator and I assumed that was it. Took the actuator off and inspected it. Very clean inside, tested the motor and it works, soldered the connectors anyway, and put back together correctly.
Next, went to the Transfer Case actuator. Saw the vent tube was broken and I suspected moisture. tried tapping the actuator lightly with a rubber mallet and the plastic now 13 year old vent hose nipple broke off. So, I removed the actuator and immediately saw the problem. Water inside, very badly corroded terminals, so basically a bad actuator beyond repair. Ordered a new actuator for about $250 off amazon.
My question is this: How do I orient the transfer case shift axle to reinstall the new actuator? I believe the new actuator comes in the 2WD position (the gears inside). My old actuator was in 4WD position when taken off and the shaft was in 4wd since it was locked in 4wd. The front add is locked into 4WD. Should I take apart the new actuator and turn the gears to the 4WD position and then the new actuator will be in the same position as the old one? Or do I try to push the axle into the TC to the 2wd position (all the way in) and install the new actuator? Also, there's about 5/16"of play on the shaft. How do you make sure the shaft is positioned correctly when you put the new actuator on? Watched and read a lot and can't quite find the answer. Thanks for any input!
Your issue is almost perfectly identical to mine; from messing with the front ADD actuator to having the broken TC actuator hose, to being stuck in 4HI- all of that was a total flashback for me to read.
So, your new TC actuator will come in the mail and you won’t know what position the gears inside are in. Mine came in 4HI, so I didn’t actually have to open it, but there’s no way I would’ve known without opening it, and so I consider it necessary. You will want to make sure it is in the 4Hi position so that the TC axle rod and the actuator and the rest of the system are all on the same page. You won’t be able to hammer the TC axle rod into the TC into the 2WD position because, on our generation of Tacoma, the transfer case has an internal locking mechanism that holds the rod in place so it doesn’t come out of whatever “drive” it’s in. The actuator is the only thing that can move that rod in and out, unless you take the transfer case completely off and crack it open (absolute nightmare). With that said, the 5/16” of movement in the rod is totally normal and not a big deal. When you put the actuator on, you’ll probably want to have the rod pushed in as far as it will go, but even then it’ll likely get into that position once you tighten the bolts that hold the actuator to the TC.
Make sure that you reset the 4WD ECU when you put the new actuator on. I like to unplug the 4WD ECU, put the actuator on (which, in our case, had its gears adjusted to be in 4HI), the rod will be in the 4HI position, and also have your dash switch on 4HI. This way, when you plug the ECU in, there will be no confusion anywhere in the system and it should be operating properly at that point.
Cheers and good luck.
I orientated the actuator to what it's like on the truck. If she's in 2wd the fork inside your tcase is all the way forward. You can freely spin the front driveshaft. So the only place for the fork left to go is backwards out outwards so orientate your gear wheel to the right so when you go 4x4 high it will move the wheel one turn left and it moves the fork outwards from the tcase so it appears the outer one is on plastic first
Thanks! Great information.
The pleasure’s mine!
Just an FYI you can diagnose the 4wd functionality from the 4WD ECU pin outs. There is a write up online and if you follow it, it will take you right to the problem. Could be sensor, motor, etc. but highly recommend you figure it out from the 4WD ECU first.
Love sifting through 20 minutes of rambling for 10 seconds of information
Boo hoo :,( almost as bad as paying the dealership $3k to fix it! You poor soul
Thanks , i have a dobout the solenoids can be damaged and how do i test them
Thank you for the answers! Was up under my truck and noticed the vacuum line was disconnected on mine. The line has dry rotted and cracked.
Tragic! Hopefully no internal damage to your actuator.
brooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo best 26 minutes of my life. If this fixes my rig, Oh My Goodness you will have saved my life. Also, after watching this the little hose.... It is a breather from my research. Mine did not come off, it dry rotted and became all brittle so no seal on the nipple. I am going to take my motor and cap off tomorrow to see what is behind it. This makes great sense as my truck is stuck in 2wd, but when I attemp to shift into 4Hi it blinks 4Lo like it doesn't know where it is. I replaced the 2 sensors on the transfer case ($100) with no success. This would make mine a $100 hose i guess! LMBO
Sounds like you might’ve found your culprit! Good luck and feel free to let me know what happens.
a 2012 TRD sport w/ 120k miles has a light and beeper going off intermittently when I shift to 4L. I suspect the contacts are beginning to get corroded. It works sometimes and always goes into 4H and back to 2H without issue. This video is gold for troubleshooting this issue. QUESTION: Do you think sanding and soldering could work out since its electrical contacts?
Hey John. Thanks for the kind words. Not sure if I mentioned it in the video but I gave sanding-and-soldering a real shot. I did not have success, though it did look a lot better and I was hopeful about it for a minute there. The inside of mine was very gnarly though; salvation was unattainable. However, it was also completely not functional at that time. With that said- since yours is still working intermittently, it may still be able to be saved with some sand n' solder. I'd definitely say it's worth a shot. Worst case your broken part is still broken and best case your broken part is fixed! Feel free to keep me updated on that, good luck
Fun video. For $267 I found a used FJ Tcase (Manual J shift) that I’m going to swap in- screw these plastic failure prone actuators
I thought about doing this while I was angry about mine not working. You have to cut through the floorboard right? Did you swap the new FJ one in yet?
Its Good información thanks will do my Toyota sequía its 2003 tink its the same
I have a 08 Tacoma and whe. I put it in 4L then back to 4H I been having a hard time it's a standard and if u don't post the clutch to the floor it won't shift out of 4L. So if it won't go back to 4H or 2w try pushing the clutch all the way to floor so the sensor is pushed
Assuming we put dialectic grease on the traces (contacts) before install and white lithium grease all the gears?
Howsit going man! Do you know if this would be the same concept for a 4th gen 4Runner? You made this make so much sense and I’m definitely more willing to try and get this thing fixed lol. My 4Runner is also stuck on high but I did not want to drop the whole transfer case like everyone was saying. I’m gonna have to take a look over the weekend.
Cheers mate, sorry I lost your comment. I have to reckon the 4Runner would be the same or very similar. Did you end up cracking into it??
And if you're stuck in 4 lx4 you can pull that actuator off and push the fork in with your foot or a rubber hammer. I thought mine was stuck but you gotta go to neutral and chock the wheels. If it doesn't move wiggle the rear shaft and push the rod hard with bottom of your shoe. Takes some force
Interesting. Thanks for the comment. I don’t think I tried going to neutral and chocking the wheels. But I think I remember reading that there’s a magnetic system inside the t-case locking the rod. Maybe I’m wrong! Next time I’m stuck in 4L I’ll give this a shot!
How do you take out the rod?
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Can you provide the link for purchase of the part. I'm concerned that the part has bee revised and the new actuator may not fit or couple with the shaft - do you have any info on this? Thanks again
Check the description of this video; I included two links for the part that should work. One of them is the link I used, and the other is a link that seems to be the same thing but for a cheaper price. As long as your Toyota isn’t a different generation then this part should still be available and will fit. Apparently some people have commented somewhere under this video of mine that the newer Tacomas & 4Runners have a different setup.
I have a leak from the O ring seal the one on the Actuator , sequoia 2004 it's the same Actuator , but I can't find the part number of the O ring seal anywhere , any help on that or a solution I don't know about , I'm not a mechanic ?
Great video. I have 03 Tacoma and got corrosion on the contacts in that plastic cap. Seems to be un obtainable well without paying 1300 to a dealership. Does anybody know if the cap off other year models would work on an 03?
Good luck sir. I do not have an answer to your question. If you find any interesting info, please feel free to report that back here. I’m finding that this comment section is becoming a forum of it’s own!
First, thank you for making this informative & entertaining video! Although I now see yours is a Tacoma while mine is a tundra, the parts look the same. Second, I had zero intention of removing the actuator but simply wanted to pop the cover to inspect the insides. Unfortunately, 2 of 3 bolts twisted off immediately (WI truck), and as I was messing with those without the cover on, the plastic gear and such came free from the gear. I’m unable to remove the entire actuator because the gear is still holding the rod in the transfer case. The bolts holding the triangular lid to access the gear are about to twist off but the lid is in a precarious location. You said to tighten the bolts holding the actuator to the transfer case before placing the gear but then that triangular cover for the gear isn’t accessible, on the tundra, at least. Any thoughts?
That gear fits in there very snug. If you can’t get the triangle plate off to access the gear then I don’t see any way you’ll be able to get it all off. Id say try getting that triangle plate off and then work the gear out with some pliers. You should be able to get that gear in and out whether the actuator mounting bolts are tightened or not. It’s only important to tighten the actuator bolts before inserting the gear when reassembling.
I’ll take a look tomorrow and maybe it won’t seem as challenging. Thank you for your response!
So my Tacoma is stuck in 2wd. Should I still pull off the side piece to make sure the new actuator is in 2wd before installing it? Or do they ship in 2wd
Mine shipped in 4Hi. I don’t know if they all ship this way but it doesn’t seem to matter in your case because you’re going to want to set it to 2WD anyway. Definitely make sure it’s set to 2WD before putting it on. 🤙🏼
HEY MY 2004 TOYOTA TACOMA IS STUCK ON 4X4 CAN YOU HELP ME PLEASE
Once you remove the actuator you can move the rod by hand, or at least mine did…so wouldn’t it be easier to just push the rod all the way in by hand or rubber mallet and make sure the new one is set to 2wd? Im waiting on the new part (my hose came off in a ditch full of water) so im pretty sure this is my issue also
Only on the older generation Toyotas ... I tried hammering mine in and it wouldn’t move. There’s a locking mechanism inside the transfer case that can’t be undone from the outside. You’re totally stoked for being able to move it yourself! Those hoses are so crucial, it’s sad how easy they come off. Good luck.
When you take the black cap off of the actuator, and let's say the rest of the actuator is still on the car, can you manually rotate that gear with your hand to go into 4 high or for low, effectively bypassing the motor if let's say your motor is dead? With that damage anything?
No you cannot because the rod is locked into place inside the transfer case. That’d be roughly the same as removing the actuator and trying to tap the rod into the right gear, but that’s not possible since that rod is locked into place inside the T-case. Cheers
What does it tell me when my 4lo won’t engage at all but my 4wd high will engage sometimes to go into 4wd high and sometimes it won’t engage, just blinks 4 high, but I can hear like a fuel pump engaging sound when I hit the 4 high button on my 2000 toyota tundra sr5 v8 4.7 thanks!
Probably what’s happening is you’re sending the signal to the actuator to shift into a different “drive” but it isn’t able to “shift” due to being defective. I’d bet your actuator is the problem
Yea so I got a 2012 Tacoma and it’s stuck in 4wd I think the light of flashing but I’m not sure any ideas ?
It’s probably an actuator. Either the front diff actuator or the transfer case one. Try to get a diagnosis of the issue first
Can you put manual wheel lock hub if the transfer case is not a j shift
I’m sorry but I don’t fully understand the question. I’m not sure what a j shift transfer case is.
To check the position of the actuator's rotor use an ohmmeter to measure continuity at the 6 pin connector. Pin 1 is closest to the motor., Pins 1 and 2 connect to the motor. Pins 3 - 6 connect to the circuit tracks. When in 2H only pins 4 and 5 connect. When in 4H only 4 and 6 connect. When in 4L only 3 and 4 connect. If any other pins connect it is between positions.
Thanks, for you answer, an help, now is working good.
I have no 4LO. 4x4 light flashing in 4hi or 4LO. Pulled the cap, cleaned the contact. I have continuity for 2wd and 4hi but nothing on pins 3-4 when in low.
@@tonyjackson8640 Flashing in 4hi or 4LO indicates that neither is engaging properly. When you took it apart are you sure you got the disk reinstalled so that it is in the right position? Use my guide above to determine what position it is actually in.
@@rcw3586 I suppose some helpful info would be that I did an sas swap so no front diff actuator. We bypassed it with a switch in the glove box. I’m certain I got it back together correctly as I had to use 4x4 today for a recovery.
I have a very competent Toyota electrical buddy wanting to take a look this weekend. So hopefully he can sort it out👍🏼
Thanks for sharing I think this will help!
I hear people saying a bunch of springs pop out when they disassemble the actuator? Is if you disassemble the motor part only.
Yeah I’ve never cracked into the actuator’s small motor but I’ve also never heard of any reason to do that. Even with my actuator having suffered major water damage, I believe the motor itself still worked perfectly.
Replaced front diff and rear actuators….still won’t go in 4lo. You can hear the front one working. When you put the rear actuator on like the way you do it in your video, how do you know it’s in the proper “timining” and in the proper shaft location? Any advice would be much appreciated
Check the video description… I linked a video that shows what “drive” your truck is in based off the shaft’s position.
This video of mine shows how to put the actuator into a position that matches your shaft positions, thereby getting your whole system on the same page. Don’t forget to reset the ECU
Solid video bro. Very helpful explanation of the actuator. Quick question, not even noticing the difference in design. I ordered the Dorman 4wd actuator off RockAuto (4140035031/2/3). Does Toyota have different model (design) actuators? Noticed after watching you video today that mine is identical to one in video but picture off RockAuto is different looking. Thank you.
2014 Tacoma TRD V6 4x4. AT.
Hey Joey, sorry it took so long to get back to you. I know that some actuators are for the differentials, not the t-case. Was the part you ordered the correct one?
Thanks for the video. My question is why is 4hi not engaging, (have the 4hi button) but the actuator works? I verified it works by jumping the pins and it cycles to 4hi and 2hi. 98 v6 auto.
Perhaps you’re having an issue with the switch inside the cab? That’d be nice eh? 😅 apparently most people claim their front diff actuator motor goes out and that stops the vehicle from going into 4x4. There are tons of videos on that. If your t-case actuator is working well though then that is a good thing.
@@DirtBikes_MathGarden 4wd switch passed continuity test on the shifter. i might have to investigate the front add actuator. the actuator on the transfer case only works when i jump it and not with the 4hi button.
Also those 2 switches(that plugs go into) could be bad. Many have removed (27mm) sprayed with maf while pressing them in/out, also check continuity while they're removed. Either cleanup fixed; replaced new; also 1 guy removed the washer on the more inside switch and so that was his fix as it then sat lower. He then sanded down said washer and put back in. So it's still sat lower and of course a washer is needed to protect internals.
I'm doing mine now(02 4runner and it was corroded too/bought car used recently)
Take the black cover off before you remove the gear and take a picture of the position of the tabs inside. Then remove the gear take off the old actuator. Take the cover off of the new one and set the postion of the new one to match the picture.
This could work as long as the black cover can off while the actuator is mounted. I always just marked mine with sharpie on the edge once I had it off. Cheers.
What grease is recommended ( by name ) for the internal connection electronics??
Use dielectric grease.
Where did you find a replacement vacuum hose? My hose has also broken and I suspect my actuator may have been fried like yours.
I thought the new actuator came with a new hose attached to it. But now that I’m thinking of it, I might have just cut my old hose right above all the cracked and rotted areas and reattached it, since there was plenty of slack before. I think I only cut about an inch or so, the rest was good.
Hi. Is there a reason why you don't install it in 2 wheel drive
Hey Cecil, yes there is a reason I don’t install it in 2WD; my truck was stuck in 4HI. So, I needed the actuator positions to match the transfer case positions on my truck so that everything would be on the same page. I even flicked the dash switch to 4HI by the steering wheel so that there would be no contradictions in the system.
So rod goes into the tcase then actuator tighten down then install gear?
Rod stays in tcase, actuator goes over that rod.
So basically it's a take off and replace the whole actuator? Any differential fluid comes out and if so how to add fluid?
No fluid comes out. There might be a little bit of electric grease in there though. Thanks for watching
Hi can you exponer for front actuator please
There is a variety of good videos all over TH-cam of people taking that front differential actuator off and opening it up and usually soldering the connection to the motor in there. Good luck & cheers
Couldn't you push the rod into the 2wd (I don't know im asking) then just install back on without cracking open the new gears
No, the transfer case has a locking mechanism that keeps the rod locked into the position it’s in. Some older generation 4WD Toyotas allow you to push the rod in and out though!
Did you end up finding the Ebay listing for the actuator? Thanks
Check the description now. Was meaning to do that. 👍🏼
My truck is stuck in 2hi, could I just hook up the new actuator electrically to the truck (not to the transfer case rod) and select 2hi in the cab and it find 2hi then hook it to the rod coming out of the transfer case?
This was my plan too. I wanted to get the new actuator in the correct position before I removed the old one. But, I was thwarted by the short length of the harness. With the original actuator still installed the limit switch connectors just would not reach.
Sorry for the late reply Christopher. I really am not sure what would happen in the case of your question. Did you try it? Did you fix your truck?
Once you got everything fixed did you have your 4wd switch in 4high or 2wd when you first turned on the ignition. I know you said yours was stuck in 4hi and when you put the new add on you set it 4wd. just was wondering bout the dash switch. thanks
I put the dash switch in 4hi so that the whole system would be on the same page when I plugged the CPU back in. I wanted the switch to match the actuator’s internal gears and position sensors, which would both match the transfer case rod position.
Essentially, I wanted my truck to know that it was in 4WD and, with everything operating correctly, get out of it just like it normally would if there had never been an issue.
thanks for the input! when you removed your old add did you notice some small play with the shift rod being in 4hi bc i noticed that on mine. the same thing happen to mine as yours. vent tube came off allowing mud and water to get inside. i cleaned it up then reassemble everything and it went back into 2wd but i'm hearing a gear winding noise inside when its in 2wd. I'm wondering if its the position of the shift rod going into the add. The add is bad bc the metal strips are rusted up and not reading properly, but the works thanks for responding
kristopher swann the rod does have some in and out play in it; it’s not rigidly locked in one position. I would advise you to take an extra look at around 20:00 of my video here. Ensure that those three mounting bolts are tightened BEFORE putting the gear that goes behind the triangle plate in. I made this mistake the first time I mounted the new one. Get it tightened first then get the gear in there (it will be harder to get the gear in this way- be patient). If you already did that then I’m not sure what else could be causing that noise.
I believe this could be the issue I am facing on my 2007 Tacoma. Right now when I turn the switch on my dash to 4hi I can hear an electric motor spinning and a click from under the truck, but I don't engage. Were you hearing any electric motor noise when you were diagnosing your truck?
I tried to listen for an electric motor noise but mine was so fried that it wouldn’t move anymore. This could be your problem. Is your breather hose still attached to the actuator? That’s step 1. If that thing’s disconnected then that’s almost certainly the problem
@@DirtBikes_MathGarden I found my vacuum line was broken. I cut it off and reattached, but it’s more than a vacuum problem, still not shifting.
@@jmink water probably got in there when it was disconnected. You’ll probably have to take it off and inspect for damage
@@DirtBikes_MathGarden Probably so. Thanks for making this video! Also, thanks for the replies to my comments. I'll let you know what happens.
Update. Once I had an extra pair of hands to help me I was able to crawl under the try while the switch was engaged. The part in this video was the motor making noise and I could feel it trying to engage.
If I simply removing the plastic cover and then put it back on then timing should be OK right? Worried about things dropping out of it! At this stage I simply want to inspect the spirals inside the cover.
Yeah removing the cover then reinstalling it shouldn’t affect the positions inside. Even if you do move the gears around just make sure to put them back to exactly where they were.
@DirtBikes_MathGarden thanks. It was stuck in 4WD. Removed the two actuator sensors/ switches. Inspected, cleaned, and checked integrity, tested OK. Removed plastic actuator cover. Feared the worst as I noticed crack at the location of one of the three screws. Thankfully, the crack ran along outside of cover only, so it was really clean inside. There was no rust on the metal spirals, but there were a couple of large blobs of the white grease on a couple of areas. Wiped away blobs. Sprayed a little electrical cleaner. Buttoned everything down, and surprise, it came straight out of 4WD, no parts needed! I'm not brave enough to try and engage 4WD just yet. I will wait until I need it, up in Minnesota, so it won't be long 😆
@@robbflynn4325 congrats on the fix! That’s bold to wait until you need it to see if it works!
I have a 2009 Tacoma 4x4 sport. I have run into the issue of trying to engage my 4 hi and now the 4wd and 4 lo lights are continuously blinking and the 4hi or lo won't engage. I took apart the TC actuator and cleaned up the contacts and pins as best as possible. I reassembled, DID NOT reset the ECU, and the lights went away. Drove around the block and tried to cycle through 4hi an 4lo and the blinking lights came right back. Gonna trouble shoot some more tomorrow, but do you think it could be from not orienting the pins correctly or maybe just needed to reset the ECU? OR should I just replace the whole damn thing ?
Try resetting the ECU, make sure the pins are oriented correctly for whatever “drive” your truck is in, and then give that a go. If all that still fails then you may want to consider replacing.
@@DirtBikes_MathGarden this might be a dumb question but resetting the 4WD ecu is simply unplugging it ? Power off ?
Not sure if you're still reading these, but i have a quick question. I've got a 2003 Tundra. We bought it off a guy who told us it needed the rear actuator and that it was stuck in 4wd. I needed to use it immediately for work so I dropped the front driveshaft to be able to just use it in 2wd. Got what u thought was the right actuator, but it wasn't, I got the front one. Since it was on there I just left the new one on, and now a few months later I finally got the rear one and replaced it. Now I'm in 2wd, but when I hit the button it still flashes and flashes all the time. I can't really find this issue on the forums. So I guess my question is, do I need to reclock the rear actuator or is there likely something else in your opinion? I was able to move the shaft forward to get it in 2wd in the transfer case, and the front drive shaft is no longer trying to spin. But I really just don't know what to try at this point. I realize you're just doing this video to help others and doesn't mean you're an expert, but you know more about it than I do obviously, so any help would be much appreciated. Either way thanks for the video, I wish I would've known sooner that it was the same on Tacoma and tundras so I could've run up on this video sooner
I’ve found that the flashing 4wd light on the dashboard indicates that the system is somehow disagreeing with itself on what “drive” the vehicle is in. E.g. you moved the switch to x but you’re still stuck in y. What I would recommend you try doing is to make sure that the t-case actuator and the shaft agree on what position they’re in (you might have to remove the actuator and manually set it, as described in this video- no problem there). Additionally, set your dash switch to whatever the transfer case actuator and shaft are at. So, get all three of those things on the same page (getting them all in 2wd wouldn’t be a bad place to start). Furthermore (and I don’t think I stressed this enough in the video), you want to reset your ECU, which is behind the glove box on passenger side. There is a “fuse” looking thing plugging into the ECU that controls/powers/does the computer work for the 4wd actuation system. I can’t remember if it is labeled “4WD” or not; you may have to do research to figure out where exactly it is, but if my memory is correct then it will say 4WD on it. So unplug that, then set those three things I listed in agreement with each other, then plug that 4wd “fuse” back into the ECU and your whole system should then be on the same page with itself. The switch, the gears in the actuator, and the transfer case rod will all be in harmony, and the ECU should know what is going on. Then you can try to change it up with the switch and if all goes well then it’ll work! Good luck
@DirtBikes_MathGarden Thank you so much for taking the time to read and respond. I'm sure you're like everybody else. Have a lot of your plate and busy all the time. I do really appreciate the advice. I will try this weekend. I was up all night. Researching videos and forums going down this rabbit hole. It's crazy, but I pray God blesses you back a 100 fold. For taking the time and giving such detailed advice to a stranger. I really, really appreciate it.
Question. My 2006 goes into 4h and works as it should. But it does not go into 4L, it did work in march. Any thoughts ?
Perhaps your actuator is only partially fried. It can’t hurt to pull it off and look inside. Good luck.
I have same issue, did you fix it, what was the problem?
It was a simple fix. My transmission neutral safety switch went bad. Put your car in park and in each gear and make sure each gear light on dash lights up if neutral light doesn't come on its a transmission neutral switch issue, it uses the light signal to let computer know you are in neutral.
I believe that the OEM and most aftermarket rear actuators come set for 4H. But if you take/took your old one off and plan to attempt cleanup and retry old actuator, you can start in 2H for example. Read comment below from rcw3586 for how to use ohm meter to test whatever position you are in and want to have for reinstall, and make sure you ONLY have ONE pair of pins 3,4,5,6 with continuity at your chosen position. This video shows and describes how to line up the big-gear,etc with its splined shaft inserted in the no-contacts base piece, but it made more sense to me to try positions with the big-gear inserted into the motor+contacts+6-pin connector piece. Either way, it's a bit of a blind insertion attempt and I wonder how many teeth you could be "off", just a couple teeth difference makes a circumference difference approaching 1/2", which I think is a little more than the space/size of the "plastic portion" described in video 10:40 to 10:59, where the outermost sensor/finger wants to sit with no continuity so that in 2H there is NO continuity between pin4+6, but DOES have continuity between pin4+5. I'm fixating on 2H because I goofed and removed my original/flaky? actuator from a 2H situation and now I want to reinstall the original actuator which I un-timed by taking the big-gear,etc out.....re-timefor one last transition from 2H to 4H, so I can install a new actuator in the position of 4H like the OEM and most aftermarket new actuators come in. I sure don't want to take the new actuator apart any further than removing the small gear from the triangular access-plate area, to remove the new rod and re-use the unremovable rod (not taking transfer case apart!) Let us pray...
I took my new actuator apart as soon as I got it, set it to where it needed to be, slapped it on and haven’t had a problem since (and it’s been years). To each their own; I’m not very good with electrical stuff so mechanically setting it the way I needed it to be worked for me. Thanks for the comment- cheers.
NEED HELP ! after I replace Transfer Actuator now flash light flashing every time with out press button. Everybody know what happen ? Thank you
Make sure you reset the ECU so the whole system can recalibrate.
Did you find out what happened? Same thing happened to me.
@@ryanpettersen3478 not luck . But I need to take off front transfer actuator , clean up or replace.
Is the 4Runner the same as the Tacoma?
I believe so.
Great job on this video...you demystified the actuator. God bless your Mom...go eat your hotdogs.
Precio en dólares por favor
Why couldn’t you get that one to work?
The internal electrical components were fried from water damage
Thanks for making this. I have 2002 Tacoma and I may have a bad transfer case actuator. Like you mentioned, I’ve been scouring the forums and watching days and days worth of videos.
Could you explain the rod positionings again and how they correlate to 2wd/4hi/4low? i.e., all the way in, the middle, all the way out. Also, I’ll most likely still be in 2wd when I replace the actuator, however I’m still a little confused as to where I should orient the large gear’s three prong contact on the circular contacts of the motor section. Any info would be most appreciated.
If it is bad, I’m really hoping to just replace the actuator myself and not the have the dealership try to work me on needing a new transfer case along with the actuator.
Thanks again for the video
Sorry for the slight lag mate. So, there’s a couple of things here: 1) make sure you watch the video linked in the description. That gentleman does a great job of showing how the rod positioning determines the “drive” of the vehicle.... I.e. if the rod is all the way out of the transfer case, the vehicle is in 4lo, middle rod position means 4hi, and all the way into the t case means 2hi. Sadly, we can’t just hit the rod back and forth like he does in the video though because the rod is locked in place from inside the t case, and so we must put a functioning actuator that has been adjusted to accommodate the rod’s position onto the rod and bolt it onto the t case. Then, we must understand that the vehicle’s computer understands what drive the t case is in based on what the actuator’s sensors are reading. If they’re incorrectly placed (or not reading at all like mine were), then the vehicle can’t know what drive it’s in and therefore can’t adjust it. Take your actuator off your t case and inspect inside. Does it seem operational? Lots of yellow electrical grease isn’t necessarily a bad thing, and it is in fact probably what you’ll find. As long as water didn’t get in there then you’re fine; you’re looking for corrosion. My actuator’s breathing hose was disconnected (for lord knows how long) and I went mudding regularly, and that’s how water got in. Now, to finish answering your question about positioning the three-pronged gear, you’re taking your actuator off and the vehicle is stuck in two wheel drive, so your rod is as far in to the t case as it will go (should still be sticking out a couple of inches to go into the actuator- refer to that video in the description to see what each position looks like). Look at the frame of 7:13 of my video here for reference. The three-pronged gear should be lined up all the way clockwise (about 2-3 o’clock in that frame at 7:13) when the actuator is assembled. This is easier to do than when I had to line it up into 4HI because I could have been slightly too far left or right in positioning that gear since it’s in the middle, but 2hi is all the way at the beginning. Do you see now? When the gear is all the way clockwise (in the frame at 7:13), the rod will be sticking out its maximum length from the actuator and into the t case. Move that gear back and you’ll pull the rod out of the t case into 4hi (middle position of both the three-pronged gear system and the rod with the t case). I hope this is making sense lad. And finally, but not leastly, don’t buy the t case actuator locally or from a dealership. They’ll charge u up the arse for it and buy it from Japan themselves, which is what you’ll do if you determine yours is bad. I wanted to include the eBay link in the description but I got lazy. It is about $500 or so. Comes from the mothership in Japan, the headquarters. Things are like gold, impossible to come by on Craigslist or junkyards. Good luck and I hope to hear good news of cheap success!
@@DirtBikes_MathGarden Your video is of great help. Any, FYI....I travel to Japan and I will look into getting a transfer actuator from the "Mothership Japan." lol
How do you know if the rod is all the way in versus just in the middle??
2 hi v 4 hi
@@spencerhargett442 typically the rod will stick out of the transfer case maybe 1.5-2 more inches in the middle position than in the “furthest in” position.
i'll be back with good news i hope
I’m rooting for you
i ran over something and broke the black part hopfully i can buy that and not take the whole thing off
Good luck. I’m not sure I’ve seen just that part for sale
@@DirtBikes_MathGarden I went to the auto parts. Have to take the whole part off. it’s a 2014 it looks east just 4 bolts hopefully it’s the front part
@@DirtBikes_MathGarden the video did help when u said it was going to cost 3-4K to repair. Lol
Same shit happened to me. Vacuum hose slipped off and inside filled up with water and mud. Nasty thing... thanks for a hint 😉
What a costly little issue! I check my hose regularly now. Glad I could help.
You should make a cool logo that says bummer dude and sell merch
Haha I like it!
You could just plug it in while it’s out of the transfercase work the switch and let it park itself
That wouldn’t fix anything though because the rod in the transfer case would still be stuck. Plus, that’s assuming that moving the switch would adjust the gears, which in my case it wouldn’t have since the electrical system was fried.
6 months later and I see what you actually meant. I have yet to confirm if that can be done. Have you seen this be done?
Hi. and you do not accidentally have a diagram of the installation of a gear in an actuator? 😅
Sorry no. I have no such diagram.
@@DirtBikes_MathGarden after two days under the car, I want to burn it! 😂
@@DirtBikes_MathGarden no where can I find instructions for setting up the actuator 😅
@@GornoeBezumie what exactly do you need to do? Does my video not have the information you need?
@@DirtBikes_MathGarden I need to put the gear in the correct position and properly screw the cover with the contacts to the actuator 😅 Unfortunately, from your video, I did not understand how to put the gear on the Contacts (Maybe due to the fact that I am not strong in English, and your video is too long and there are many extra words 😅
Un video en español amigo soy boliviano tu video esta full pero no entiendo tu idioma
Pudiera tratar pero hay muchas palabras sobre autos que sólo sé en inglés. Este vídeo fue suficiente embarazoso en inglés 😂
Great video. One important note - this actually has nothing to do with the low range switching. That’s manual with the lever on the floor.
This does 2h > 4h > 4H LOCK (center dif) in the last positions.
Way confusing
I cri every tim:/
Don't forget to pay attention to the orings and if you have it off might as well just replace them for piece of mind cause they can get old worn out and cause issues too.