So. While I was trying to get unstuck today in my 2002 Tundra, my 4wd just quit working and the 4WD light started flashing. Tried everything to get it engaged/disengaged. I succumbed to the fact that my actuator had gone bad and needed replaced. Stumbled upon your video. Sure enough, the actuator was full of gunk with a moderate rust pit on the outside most contact. You saved me a couple of grand and I just wanted to say thank you for it. Keep doing what you do.
Very good! But another youtuber shows how to remove actuator without disassembling transfer case. It involves removing that small plate on actuator with the 3 small bolts, and then pulling small gear out which releases actuator from rod. Just a thought. Great video!
Hi great video. I was wondering if this would apply to my 06 toyota sequoia. It goes into 4wd hi but for 4 lo it flashes and stops. Checked and listened for motor engagements but heard nothing what do you think?
Appreciated your video. Your video helped me understand the issue I am having with my Tundra's 4 Wheel Drive. The Light Flashes when I go to take it out of 4-Wheel Drive High. And sometimes it will engage, but will not disengage fully or in part. It was the visual that helped very much. It is either the Actuator or the Transfer Case, or both. My bigger problem is finding a dealership I can trust to do the job that will handle the 4-Wheel Drive and be upfront about it. Thank you!
Great info, exactly what I needed to see. I've got the exact same truck, same issue, and likely the same problem. Thanks for posting. I'll let you know what I find, lol.
I have 2003 Sequoia been looking thru videos I found yours to be very helpful. I am gonna try this fix hopefully I can get it out of four wheel drive! Thanks for posting this video.
Thanks! This one was really throwing me though a loop! Popped the motor off and a cup of water came out, contacts were green and fuzzy. Cleaned up and works great!
@@ThePracticalMechanic It actually was connected, when I got to it (another tech looked at it first). Got the full story later. After backing his jet skis in the lake, the truck was stuck in 4wd. Did my best to seal up the housing, to prevent it from reoccurring.
My 2001 4Runner’s 4wd light would blink when I engaged it. A tiny bit of corrosion on the position switch in the actuator on the transfer case caused my problem. You saved me a bunch of time and money. Thanks.
I would personally like to thank you for this great Informal video.... I had this very same problem on my 2nd generation Tacoma.... I tried everything and the issue was dirty connections on the transfer case actuator...... now the 4wd works like brand new ...... thank you so very much for this video
@@dinow1990 so it kept blinking or would it only blink a couple times when starting truck and then stopping and then start blinking again when trying to switch back to 2wd cuz I’m running into issues switching to 4hi fine but cant switch back to 2wd
@@zachdatskiy3367 I can't remember in detail because it was so long ago, but I do remember the 4hi and the 4 lo lights blinking together once the truck was running, the 4 wheel drive system never worked until I cleaned the motor, I also had to replace the computer control box under the dashboard that controls the operation of the 4wd
Chad, this an amazing video! You don't know how many techs I have seen get their butts kicked by 4wd issues! I diagnose them a little differently, not that your way is wrong lol. But I go to the 4wd module when diagnosing them. Only because I’ve seen the front diff switches fail too, so I can check them both at one test location. But it is all the same, just a different test location. I never thought to try to repair the switches! I need to find one that's bad now, and try to fix it!
I couldn’t access the module with my Snapon scanner and wasn’t sure if the tech stream would give me more access. My brother asked me if I wanted to use Techstream and I grabbed the scope and a wiring diagram instead.
ThePracticalMechanic no, you can’t connect with the scan tool! Lol sorry for the miscommunication! That’s just where I hook up my scope, that’s all that I was saying lol
Voltage Drop Diagnostics That would make much more sense PJ. If scoping at the module you have access to all the same test points and if the shift motor is good you can jump straight to the wires for the front A.D.D. Actuator. Thanks for the tip PJ.
I had this exact same issue. My 03 sequoia got stuck in 4WD locked diff. Center diff light flashing. I tested both transfer case postion switches and found the front one to be bad. After replacing it I disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes and then reconnected it. I started it and the blinking light went away. I would start with the position switches if you’re having similar issues. The part was $61 with tax.
I might be having the same problem in my 03 sequoia. All 4 wheels are locked. Center icon of the 4wd indicator is a flashing orange circle. Can't get it out. Did you just remove and clean the actuator and put it back in? How long did this take you? Thanks!
I only took the actuator out I cleaned the dirt rust and grime out I applied a thin coat of super lube because it acts as die electric grease put it back together and immediately the truck shifted into two wheel drive and has been working fine since. I say it took me an hour but I was not working the whole time because I was ours in the cold😂
@@jeremybrunes38 this is so great to hear. Thank you so much. Were you able to do this on the ground, or did you have to lift the vehicle? It seems like I can reach it without lifting (in an apartment that prohibits jacks).
Yes I did it on the ground no jack. I have the SR5 so it is on all terrain tires but I doubt that makes any difference I am a big guy 6 ft 235 lbs so ya have an idea how how room ya got.
@9:00 you can see the hash appears to be in the "same spot" every time... so your theory, with the contact strip, is spot on in my opinion. I'm only half way through the video so far... see where it goes....
Awesome! Ivan would surely be proud!! Love it when we can do this for customers. .. with a little side note of, "I don't know how long this fix will last though"
Hi Chad, thanks for this fantastic video. I have a 2002 Sequoia with a single 4WD on/off button on the dash and the front transfer shifter in the center console. My problem is the center differential light on the dash is blinking orange, and an inability to get it to shift out/turn the light off. I'm curious if you (as I do) had an ABS dashboard code of 48 (center differential lock circuit malfunction) pointing to the problematic transfer shift actuator?
Wrong about not being able to remove the actuator without splitting the transfer case, however thats the only method that is documented on official Toyota service manual, so any dealer will tell you this as theres no instructions on alternative removal. I demonstrate the transfer case actuator removal and installation while on the vehicle on my channel, ep 8 at timestamp 1:37 on my video. It's a good thing the customer declined the actuator replacement (removing the transfer case). However great job showing us the detail and how you diagnose this issue and fixed it without removing the transfer case.
First part is waaaay over my head but great to see the parts up close.. just got back from a trip and 4low won’t work all all and 4hi button blinks in or out of engagement. This seems difficult from reading the comments. I’m pissed and hate this auto button crap. Parts and labor are stupid expensive!
Great video. I am not getting power to my ADD actuator in the front diff. I have a good fuse in the cabin fuse box so Im thinking its a faulty 4wd ECU. How can I check to see if the 4WD control ECU is my issue.
Agreed. People have become used to the convenience of the automatic systems. Unfortunately the auto/electric shift systems are difficult to diagnose and expensive to repair compared to the manual systems.
Trying to currently fix one with both 4wd lights flashing after a transmission and transfer case replacement. Big pain in the ass. Wish they would go back to manual 4wd
We’re the parts from the salvage yard or new? Some times when they sit at the salvage yard for a few years they don’t like to shift and I have to manually override the motor to get it to move back and forth a few times.
Can you please tell me what is the position of this actuator? Interested in the position of the gear with contacts, in what position should the rod be (in the transfer case or completely stick out of it in the 2 wd position) and in what position should the handle in the cabin be? Sorry for my English, I'm from Abkhazia
have you tried leaving the rod in the transfer case and removing the actuator from the end of the rod? There's just a gear in the actuator (under the triangular cover) that has to be removed and the rod slides out
Chad, another TH-camr has a video where he shows how to remove the round gear from above (remove two bolts) and pull round gear out. This will let you remove the actuator without any transfer case disassembly. I’ve never worked on one.
I have ! There is NO need to dismantle transfercase whatsoever !!! Remove black cover (3 bolts) then take picture of the chocolate colored rotor with your phone , you need to do this to remember angle or " timing " of the contact blades attached to rotor. Pull rotor towards you. Now you can remove the rest of the body. Reinstall new or repaired motor in reverse order . Timing of the rotor is critical fro proper operation. Remember if you were locked or unlocked ( 2wd or 4wd ) prior to doing this .
I rebuilt the actuator, cleaned it up, reinstalled it and still had shifting into 4wd issues. So to heck with it, I bought a new actuator annnnd Im still having issues! I’m at a total loss. The truck will shift into 4H but the computer doesn’t recognize it so the 4wd light flashes nonstop. Which prevents me from shifting into 4L. I can put the truck in neutral turn it off, switch the knob from 4H to 2wd then turn it back on and it’ll switch back to 2wd. Basically the trucks 4wd works on it’s own terms. It’s 2nd Gen but same actuator unit as in this video. There’s definitely an electronic issue somewhere. I just don’t get it bc I but a new actuator to avoid that. I took it to transmission shop and they said it was fine. But when I left w the truck it still wouldn’t shift properly. And yes, I know how to shift into 4wd... Any thoughts out there?
You can replace that without removing the (case) the triangle cover. Remove. Take needle one pliers remove gear.....pull off the acuator......reverse with new.....done
If i want to take off cover and clean contacts and its under load will i have issues when i put the cap back on? I dont have the equipment you have. Thank you
So my issue is my 4wd works but the lights keeps flashing .i replaced the sensor closest to the front and it stopped the flashing .well it started it again ,4wd works but lite flashes. I used a new sensor from toyota. 8m lost now
I have a toyota 4runner 2001 3.4.....i took off the transfer case actuator...and i took out the plastic gear and cleaned it up....and when i put it back together it doesnt work....someone told me that the plastic gears has it's timing spot...can you help me...thanks
Hi guys, i have a c1340 error code, my 4h and vsc off is flashing and my tracción control is on all the time, 4wd not entering, other botton in board are not working wich someone can help me ouy
Currently working on a 2003 Tundra. 4 Hi and 4 Lo both work but when disengaging the 4wd the 4 Hi light blinks. I have replaced the front a.d.d. actuator with a new one as the splines on the fork were broken causing it to bind up. I did clean the transfer case actuator cover and replaced the 4 Hi position switch all with no luck. With the 4wd disengaged and 4 Hi blinking the front driveshaft does spin freely as it should. Currently stumped on what else it could be. Any ideas?
Matt DeWitt On the 99 4runner the actuator is designed a little differently. I think the contact plate is down a little deeper. It has been a while but I have disassembled them and cleaned up the contacts and the motor brushes. It seems like I normally just pull the steel motor cover off and manually move the motor and that is enough to get it working again.
I have a leak from the O ring seal the one on the Actuator , sequoia 2004 it's the same Actuator , but I can't find the part number of the O ring seal anywhere , any help on that or a solution I don't know about , I'm not a mechanic ?
transfercase will cost much more unless you get a used one. I used one is going to be a gamble since it may have the same issue. There are also some videos showing how to replace the actuator without taking the transfercase apart but you have to make sure to get everything back together exactly the same of it still wont shift properly.
@@ThePracticalMechanic well I'm having a mechanic replace it with a used Tcase and Actuator. 1700.00. I'll admit I was a little intimidated by the job and my schedule is nuts so I didn't know when I'd have time.
I have a 2001 Hilux LN167 and when I put it in 4x4 with the diff locks on it jumps out back to 2H when I set off. 4x4 Low works fine. It does not jump out of 4H when the diff locks are off. Any idea what might be happening? What do I need to look at?
I’m not sure what’s going on there since we don’t have that model available. The American models don’t allow diff locks unless your in 4low. If you engage the diff lock lock button in 4high the lights will just flash until you shift to 4low. The Landcruisers have a center diff lock in the transfercase but those are all wheel drive.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Thanks forthe reply. This has manual diff locks on the wheel hubs. Either, locked, or not. So, works in both 4H and 4L, except, mine jumps out of 4H. My Pajero was the same set up.
@@martynjames5963 ok I see what you talking about now. Does you Hilux have manual shift transfercase or does it have electronic shift. If it has manual shift it may have an issue with the detent spring that holds the shifter in place or there could be an issue internal of the transfercase. When the hubs are unlocked there is no power to the front wheels even though the transfercase is in 4x4 so there is less load on the transfercase.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Yes it is manual. I suspect detent. It was previously owned by contstruction. I wonder if they just left it in 4WD High, even on the road, and have worn stuff out (hope not). Hope it's the detent spring. Can it be accessed without removing the transfer case? I doubt it eh? Prob wirth a try first.
I just got a 2000 tundra and the 4hi light was staying in but not engaging in 4wd so I replaced the front differential and new 4we actuator, now the 4hi and 4low are flashing in the dash and instrument panel and not engaging in 4wd as I drive it the lights start to flicker and then it kicks in and back out again do you think it’s the transfer case?
It typically isn’t the transfer case unless something was broken or installed improperly. The normal problems are the front ADD actuator or the transfer case shift actuator. Both lights are flashing all the time? Normally only one light will flash. It’s possible that the actuator is installed in the wrong position and the transfer case control module is confused about what position the actuator is in.
ThePracticalMechanic also the lights flash and the 4lo light goes out sometimes and comes back on, then it feels like it engages and then they start flashing again and no 4wd
@@ruboneoutbarbecue the front actuator typically gets install correctly but the transfercase actuator can be installed wrong. If the light is flashing then it failed to shift out of or into a different gear. Sometime the light will flash because the front differential didn't unlock either and that will prevent the 4hi-2hi shift.the lights could also be flashing because the controller can't tell what gear the truck is in. That is what was happening in this video. The readings from the sensor didnt make sense to the control unit so it stopped controlling it and just started flashing the light.
It’s cool and all to see the problem in action , but why not just start with taking it apart. It’s so easy to get off that compared to all the work of hooking up that scope it seems more efficient to take it apart first thing
Primary reason to demonstrate how the unit works and second is to prove where the fault is. If all the circuits looked ok on the scope we may have headed in a different direction.
@@ThePracticalMechanic brilliant, thank you. You helped me fix one of these today. What’s awesome is (to those who have never looked) these pico setups are many thousands to obtain. And vids like these allow me to not have to spend the money. Thanks again
Are there two actuators in the Tundra, front and rear or just one that cleaned up. I thought I watched one video that the person said the rear was ok and he replaced an actuator that needed the case fluid drained. Just a little confused!
There is one on the transfercase(the one I repaired in the video) and there is another one on the front differential. The front unit may require fluid to be drained.
Tried this fix tonight, the gear with the small contacts (at 13:14) fell out when I popped the cover. I can't seem to find anything online for orienting that thing back into place properly. Do you know if this vehicle was in 2wd after cycling power, but before you popped the cover? I could at least start by popping the selector shaft all the way in and orienting it the same as your vid...then hoping for the best. Thanks in advance!
@@jacobhudjack9243 Yep! I found a couple of sites online that referenced putting the gear at about the 3 o'clock position in the cap. Here's the process I used - 1. Pull the gear & cap 2. Pull the cover & small spline gear on the opposite side 3. Remove the actuator housing 4. Push the 4wd selector shaft all the way in (2wd) 5. Reinstall housing 6. Align gear in cap to ~3 o'clock position 7. Verify signal via resistance checks using a DMM (you can pin out the unit before putting the gear back in, you only want continuity between the inner ground ring and the 2wd ring. Not the other ones for 4wd Hi and Lo) 8. Pop cap & gear assembly into the housing on the truck (just hold in place for now) 9. Install small spline gear to clock larger gear to the t-case shaft 10. Pull cap & gear assy, verify proper continuity one more time 11. Assemble cap & gear assy (bolt in place this time, may need to remove that spline gear again and then put it back in to get things seated) 12. Put cover back over the spline gear 13. Plug everything in and you're good to go! Don't forget to RTV that small cover, it's also worth clearing out those threads while you have the housing off. Make sure to grease up the o-rings a little before reassembly, and I had better luck getting the cap seated with the O-ring on the cap side, not the housing side. When I was doing Step 8, I would just leave the o-ring off. One less thing to mess with for alignment. Hopefully this helps someone!
@@jasonvandort3517 thanks for the reply man. I took my cap off last night and it was extremely corroded to the point sanding wouldnt help make the connections look much better. The worm gear was also very rusty and wouldnt move when I applied power to it (hoping i was doing it properly) Picked up a new cap from the junkyard today and it all looks mint. Going to attempt to put it back together today. Is it okay if I direct message you if I need some help ? Thanks again
Your completely wrong it’s actually dumb to change the whole t case. All u have to do I’d take 3. 8 mil screws out the t case motor remove cap pull gear out then remove shift motor. It’s simple
he know's all that and he can;t figure out all you need to do is remove the gear through that side portal and the actuator comes right off? roflmao buy a whole new transfer case..... No don;t buy a new transfer case to replace that part it come's off easily enough.
at 1:40 you're completely wrong. You can indeed pop off the actuator. Take off that little plate with three bolts, pull the little gear out and then unbolt the actuator. If you've been replacing trans cases because you didn't know this you're a complete hack.
There were multiple other people that noted that correction before you. No need to be rude, the video is great and there's still alot of good information that inspires good positive feedback.
So. While I was trying to get unstuck today in my 2002 Tundra, my 4wd just quit working and the 4WD light started flashing. Tried everything to get it engaged/disengaged. I succumbed to the fact that my actuator had gone bad and needed replaced. Stumbled upon your video. Sure enough, the actuator was full of gunk with a moderate rust pit on the outside most contact. You saved me a couple of grand and I just wanted to say thank you for it. Keep doing what you do.
Very good! But another youtuber shows how to remove actuator without disassembling transfer case. It involves removing that small plate on actuator with the 3 small bolts, and then pulling small gear out which releases actuator from rod. Just a thought. Great video!
Seconding this. It could save some people a ton of time. Also, It's important to clock the actuator to the same position as the old one.
This saved me tons of worry and enabled me to repair the exact same issue in 15 minutes! Thank you!
3 years later and still saving Toyotas. Bravo!
Like Ivan always says “no parts required”
Great work Chad
Good ol PHAD fix.
My thoughts too!
Ivan would be proud!
Hi great video. I was wondering if this would apply to my 06 toyota sequoia. It goes into 4wd hi but for 4 lo it flashes and stops. Checked and listened for motor engagements but heard nothing what do you think?
Such great answers. Can i buy just the assembly and motor you cleaned? Unbolt unplug and replace.
Thank you Chad. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
Appreciated your video. Your video helped me understand the issue I am having with my Tundra's 4 Wheel Drive. The Light Flashes when I go to take it out of 4-Wheel Drive High. And sometimes it will engage, but will not disengage fully or in part. It was the visual that helped very much. It is either the Actuator or the Transfer Case, or both. My bigger problem is finding a dealership I can trust to do the job that will handle the 4-Wheel Drive and be upfront about it. Thank you!
Great job and good info. Always happy to learn more. Thanks for sharing Chad 👍
love the picoscope plots on screen. amazing work and editing. thanks for that effort
Great info, exactly what I needed to see. I've got the exact same truck, same issue, and likely the same problem. Thanks for posting. I'll let you know what I find, lol.
Excellent video Chad...very well done! You do an excellent job with explaining the circuit design and the mechanical functions!
Thanks for stopping by today. Haven’t seen you in a while which must mean your super busy. Keep on wrenching buddy. 🔧🔧🔧
@@ThePracticalMechanic you betcha...it's 100 miles an hour starting at 730am 😂👍
Cleaned my tabs on my 2000 first gen and it works great! Thanks!
Man oh man! Excellent video.. saved me hundreds of dollars for sure doing it myself! Thanks a lot.
Thank you Chad - you gave my 2003 Sequioa with 245,000 miles a longer life - Dealer wanted $3400 for their fix - they said your fix wasn't possible!
I’m glad I could help you. Especially with that kind of savings. Have an awesome week.
I have 2003 Sequoia been looking thru videos I found yours to be very helpful. I am gonna try this fix hopefully I can get it out of four wheel drive! Thanks for posting this video.
Thanks! This one was really throwing me though a loop! Popped the motor off and a cup of water came out, contacts were green and fuzzy. Cleaned up and works great!
That’s great. Was the small vent hose connected to the actuator? That is what I see causing the water intrusion often.
@@ThePracticalMechanic It actually was connected, when I got to it (another tech looked at it first). Got the full story later. After backing his jet skis in the lake, the truck was stuck in 4wd. Did my best to seal up the housing, to prevent it from reoccurring.
Took me 10 min and I had a beer! - Just cleaned it a bit and it shifts into 4WD super easy now
thanks! great video. I hope this is the fix for the actuator on my Tundra
I have an 08 Tundra, but I think this answered some questions. Thanks for making the video, it's good.
Glad it helped
excellent analysis!
Good job. I’ve hated the4x4 push button designs from the get go. But I’m an old fashion old guy. Great video as always Chad 👍🏻
Thanks Burt! I’ll stick with my older Toyota’s with manual shift 4x4 system. Push buttons have way too many issues.
Exactly 👍🏻
@@burtpilon1735 totally agree with you there! I'll keep my S10 4x4 manual shifter too. Lol
Very informative - just what I was looking for - thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
This video was a blessing haha! Thank you so much for this!
My 2001 4Runner’s 4wd light would blink when I engaged it. A tiny bit of corrosion on the position switch in the actuator on the transfer case caused my problem. You saved me a bunch of time and money. Thanks.
I would personally like to thank you for this great Informal video.... I had this very same problem on my 2nd generation Tacoma.... I tried everything and the issue was dirty connections on the transfer case actuator...... now the 4wd works like brand new ...... thank you so very much for this video
No problem dinow1990. I’m glad you took the time to let me know. Most just grab the information and run. Have a great week and stay safe.
Was your 4hi light blinking when you would start your truck?
@@zachdatskiy3367 yes it would blink constantly
@@dinow1990 so it kept blinking or would it only blink a couple times when starting truck and then stopping and then start blinking again when trying to switch back to 2wd cuz I’m running into issues switching to 4hi fine but cant switch back to 2wd
@@zachdatskiy3367 I can't remember in detail because it was so long ago, but I do remember the 4hi and the 4 lo lights blinking together once the truck was running, the 4 wheel drive system never worked until I cleaned the motor, I also had to replace the computer control box under the dashboard that controls the operation of the 4wd
that is a well made video.....you are a badass mechanic...thanks for that!!!
Thanks Jay. I happy to help.
great info helped me a lot thank you very much!!!!
Great video Chad
Thanks a Lot Amigo For Sharing, May God Bless You...
Awesome awesome awesome video! Thanks so much for presenting this.
Chad, this an amazing video! You don't know how many techs I have seen get their butts kicked by 4wd issues! I diagnose them a little differently, not that your way is wrong lol. But I go to the 4wd module when diagnosing them. Only because I’ve seen the front diff switches fail too, so I can check them both at one test location. But it is all the same, just a different test location. I never thought to try to repair the switches! I need to find one that's bad now, and try to fix it!
I couldn’t access the module with my Snapon scanner and wasn’t sure if the tech stream would give me more access. My brother asked me if I wanted to use Techstream and I grabbed the scope and a wiring diagram instead.
ThePracticalMechanic no, you can’t connect with the scan tool! Lol sorry for the miscommunication!
That’s just where I hook up my scope, that’s all that I was saying lol
Voltage Drop Diagnostics That would make much more sense PJ. If scoping at the module you have access to all the same test points and if the shift motor is good you can jump straight to the wires for the front A.D.D. Actuator. Thanks for the tip PJ.
Remove that triangle plate then remove the small gear and motor will slide right off leaving the shift shaft in the t case
I had this exact same issue. My 03 sequoia got stuck in 4WD locked diff. Center diff light flashing. I tested both transfer case postion switches and found the front one to be bad. After replacing it I disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes and then reconnected it. I started it and the blinking light went away. I would start with the position switches if you’re having similar issues. The part was $61 with tax.
I tried this on my 2003 sequoia and it totally worked thank you so much for the video saved me a bunch right before Christmas!
I’m glad I could help. Have a safe holiday.
I might be having the same problem in my 03 sequoia. All 4 wheels are locked. Center icon of the 4wd indicator is a flashing orange circle. Can't get it out. Did you just remove and clean the actuator and put it back in? How long did this take you? Thanks!
I only took the actuator out I cleaned the dirt rust and grime out I applied a thin coat of super lube because it acts as die electric grease put it back together and immediately the truck shifted into two wheel drive and has been working fine since. I say it took me an hour but I was not working the whole time because I was ours in the cold😂
@@jeremybrunes38 this is so great to hear. Thank you so much. Were you able to do this on the ground, or did you have to lift the vehicle? It seems like I can reach it without lifting (in an apartment that prohibits jacks).
Yes I did it on the ground no jack. I have the SR5 so it is on all terrain tires but I doubt that makes any difference I am a big guy 6 ft 235 lbs so ya have an idea how how room ya got.
Thanks a lot! Fixed my issue with your information from this video!
Glad it helped!
@9:00 you can see the hash appears to be in the "same spot" every time... so your theory, with the contact strip, is spot on in my opinion. I'm only half way through the video so far... see where it goes....
Awesome! Ivan would surely be proud!! Love it when we can do this for customers. .. with a little side note of, "I don't know how long this fix will last though"
Thanks fir your video that gave us more information
It's my pleasure
great video. thank you.
You can replace the actuator without disassembling the transfer case. Look up "The Other Guys" video on how to do it.
Hi Chad, thanks for this fantastic video. I have a 2002 Sequoia with a single 4WD on/off button on the dash and the front transfer shifter in the center console. My problem is the center differential light on the dash is blinking orange, and an inability to get it to shift out/turn the light off. I'm curious if you (as I do) had an ABS dashboard code of 48 (center differential lock circuit malfunction) pointing to the problematic transfer shift actuator?
Good job
Awesome video thank you so much for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Saved me a ton of money and down time. Took less than 10 minutes and was back on the road. Cheers!
Wrong about not being able to remove the actuator without splitting the transfer case, however thats the only method that is documented on official Toyota service manual, so any dealer will tell you this as theres no instructions on alternative removal. I demonstrate the transfer case actuator removal and installation while on the vehicle on my channel, ep 8 at timestamp 1:37 on my video. It's a good thing the customer declined the actuator replacement (removing the transfer case). However great job showing us the detail and how you diagnose this issue and fixed it without removing the transfer case.
Good job thanks
First part is waaaay over my head but great to see the parts up close.. just got back from a trip and 4low won’t work all all and 4hi button blinks in or out of engagement. This seems difficult from reading the comments. I’m pissed and hate this auto button crap. Parts and labor are stupid expensive!
I prefer I shift lever any day over the auto systems. So much simpler and more reliable.
Great video. I am not getting power to my ADD actuator in the front diff. I have a good fuse in the cabin fuse box so Im thinking its a faulty 4wd ECU. How can I check to see if the 4WD control ECU is my issue.
Nice video Chad. No parts repair👍🏻
Thanks Brian.
Old manual locks worked for 100 year with no problem
Agreed. People have become used to the convenience of the automatic systems. Unfortunately the auto/electric shift systems are difficult to diagnose and expensive to repair compared to the manual systems.
Trying to currently fix one with both 4wd lights flashing after a transmission and transfer case replacement. Big pain in the ass. Wish they would go back to manual 4wd
We’re the parts from the salvage yard or new? Some times when they sit at the salvage yard for a few years they don’t like to shift and I have to manually override the motor to get it to move back and forth a few times.
Can you please tell me what is the position of this actuator? Interested in the position of the gear with contacts, in what position should the rod be (in the transfer case or completely stick out of it in the 2 wd position) and in what position should the handle in the cabin be? Sorry for my English, I'm from Abkhazia
have you tried leaving the rod in the transfer case and removing the actuator from the end of the rod? There's just a gear in the actuator (under the triangular cover) that has to be removed and the rod slides out
The first you do is to check there is not damage for corrosion,more if you know vacuum pipe is off.that hose makes difference.
Great job , which terminal did you connect your 9 volt battery to ?
Thanx
Chad, another TH-camr has a video where he shows how to remove the round gear from above (remove two bolts) and pull round gear out. This will let you remove the actuator without any transfer case disassembly. I’ve never worked on one.
I have ! There is NO need to dismantle transfercase whatsoever !!! Remove black cover (3 bolts) then take picture of the chocolate colored rotor with your phone , you need to do this to remember angle or " timing " of the contact blades attached to rotor. Pull rotor towards you. Now you can remove the rest of the body. Reinstall new or repaired motor in reverse order . Timing of the rotor is critical fro proper operation. Remember if you were locked or unlocked ( 2wd or 4wd ) prior to doing this .
Thanks Jeff !
I rebuilt the actuator, cleaned it up, reinstalled it and still had shifting into 4wd issues. So to heck with it, I bought a new actuator annnnd Im still having issues! I’m at a total loss. The truck will shift into 4H but the computer doesn’t recognize it so the 4wd light flashes nonstop. Which prevents me from shifting into 4L. I can put the truck in neutral turn it off, switch the knob from 4H to 2wd then turn it back on and it’ll switch back to 2wd. Basically the trucks 4wd works on it’s own terms. It’s 2nd Gen but same actuator unit as in this video. There’s definitely an electronic issue somewhere. I just don’t get it bc I but a new actuator to avoid that. I took it to transmission shop and they said it was fine. But when I left w the truck it still wouldn’t shift properly. And yes, I know how to shift into 4wd... Any thoughts out there?
Same issue on mine. Did you ever figure it out?
You can replace that without removing the (case) the triangle cover. Remove. Take needle one pliers remove gear.....pull off the acuator......reverse with new.....done
If i want to take off cover and clean contacts and its under load will i have issues when i put the cap back on? I dont have the equipment you have.
Thank you
Having the same problem. Do you know if this will work with a 2006 tundra sr5?
Thanks 🙏. Looks like it’s time for me to pay 💰 again.
I want to spin the actuator which pins do I put my positive and negative to.
next game of pictionary youre on my team 😉...wear your seatbelt.
You should see the doodles I drew on the classroom board today.
@@ThePracticalMechanic 😂😂😂😂 "the artist" I bet very Picasso like. Lol.
So my issue is my 4wd works but the lights keeps flashing .i replaced the sensor closest to the front and it stopped the flashing .well it started it again ,4wd works but lite flashes. I used a new sensor from toyota. 8m lost now
I have a toyota 4runner 2001 3.4.....i took off the transfer case actuator...and i took out the plastic gear and cleaned it up....and when i put it back together it doesnt work....someone told me that the plastic gears has it's timing spot...can you help me...thanks
New sub here. New Level posted your video on Facebook.
Welcome Dan. Thanks for checking out the video. I’ll have to thank Keith.
My 2002 toyota tuntra shifts in to 4x4 high but now in to 4x4 low, any ideas ?
Hi guys, i have a c1340 error code, my 4h and vsc off is flashing and my tracción control is on all the time, 4wd not entering, other botton in board are not working wich someone can help me ouy
Currently working on a 2003 Tundra. 4 Hi and 4 Lo both work but when disengaging the 4wd the 4 Hi light blinks. I have replaced the front a.d.d. actuator with a new one as the splines on the fork were broken causing it to bind up. I did clean the transfer case actuator cover and replaced the 4 Hi position switch all with no luck. With the 4wd disengaged and 4 Hi blinking the front driveshaft does spin freely as it should. Currently stumped on what else it could be. Any ideas?
I believe there is a switch in the front a.d.d housing that indicate if it is engaged or not. If that switch is stuck the light will flash as well.
Hey Chad, I have a 1999 Toyota 4runner Limited with the same issue. Did you do same procedure on the 4runner you mention?
Matt DeWitt On the 99 4runner the actuator is designed a little differently. I think the contact plate is down a little deeper. It has been a while but I have disassembled them and cleaned up the contacts and the motor brushes. It seems like I normally just pull the steel motor cover off and manually move the motor and that is enough to get it working again.
I have a leak from the O ring seal the one on the Actuator , sequoia 2004 it's the same Actuator , but I can't find the part number of the O ring seal anywhere , any help on that or a solution I don't know about , I'm not a mechanic ?
Honestly most oring like that I have to match up from an assortment I have. There may not be a part number available for it
What if all the contacts look good?
I replaced both actuators and I still get a flashing light and 4lo will not engage. Any ideas what I should check next? Thanks
I have the flashing light and no 4 low. Did you ever figure out yours?
Hi, where you from ? It is possible for you to help me fixing my actuator issue ??
I have same issues!! I need a mechanic in the los angeles area, someone let me know!!
When I push the 2WD/4WD button nothing happens. Light doesn't flash, nothing shifts or changes. any ideas?
Cheaper to replace the transfer case and actuator? I'm dealing with this issue now. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
transfercase will cost much more unless you get a used one. I used one is going to be a gamble since it may have the same issue. There are also some videos showing how to replace the actuator without taking the transfercase apart but you have to make sure to get everything back together exactly the same of it still wont shift properly.
@@ThePracticalMechanic well I'm having a mechanic replace it with a used Tcase and Actuator. 1700.00. I'll admit I was a little intimidated by the job and my schedule is nuts so I didn't know when I'd have time.
I have a 2001 Hilux LN167 and when I put it in 4x4 with the diff locks on it jumps out back to 2H when I set off. 4x4 Low works fine. It does not jump out of 4H when the diff locks are off. Any idea what might be happening? What do I need to look at?
I’m not sure what’s going on there since we don’t have that model available. The American models don’t allow diff locks unless your in 4low. If you engage the diff lock lock button in 4high the lights will just flash until you shift to 4low.
The Landcruisers have a center diff lock in the transfercase but those are all wheel drive.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Thanks forthe reply. This has manual diff locks on the wheel hubs. Either, locked, or not. So, works in both 4H and 4L, except, mine jumps out of 4H. My Pajero was the same set up.
@@martynjames5963 ok I see what you talking about now. Does you Hilux have manual shift transfercase or does it have electronic shift. If it has manual shift it may have an issue with the detent spring that holds the shifter in place or there could be an issue internal of the transfercase.
When the hubs are unlocked there is no power to the front wheels even though the transfercase is in 4x4 so there is less load on the transfercase.
@@ThePracticalMechanic Yes it is manual. I suspect detent. It was previously owned by contstruction. I wonder if they just left it in 4WD High, even on the road, and have worn stuff out (hope not). Hope it's the detent spring. Can it be accessed without removing the transfer case? I doubt it eh? Prob wirth a try first.
I just got a 2000 tundra and the 4hi light was staying in but not engaging in 4wd so I replaced the front differential and new 4we actuator, now the 4hi and 4low are flashing in the dash and instrument panel and not engaging in 4wd as I drive it the lights start to flicker and then it kicks in and back out again do you think it’s the transfer case?
It typically isn’t the transfer case unless something was broken or installed improperly. The normal problems are the front ADD actuator or the transfer case shift actuator. Both lights are flashing all the time? Normally only one light will flash. It’s possible that the actuator is installed in the wrong position and the transfer case control module is confused about what position the actuator is in.
ThePracticalMechanic ok you can install the front actuator in the wrong position?
ThePracticalMechanic also the lights flash and the 4lo light goes out sometimes and comes back on, then it feels like it engages and then they start flashing again and no 4wd
@@ruboneoutbarbecue the front actuator typically gets install correctly but the transfercase actuator can be installed wrong. If the light is flashing then it failed to shift out of or into a different gear. Sometime the light will flash because the front differential didn't unlock either and that will prevent the 4hi-2hi shift.the lights could also be flashing because the controller can't tell what gear the truck is in. That is what was happening in this video. The readings from the sensor didnt make sense to the control unit so it stopped controlling it and just started flashing the light.
ThePracticalMechanic ok the light didn’t start flashing until we replaced the front diff actuator
That’s just the center placid bar separating contacts on the plastic cover.
It’s cool and all to see the problem in action , but why not just start with taking it apart. It’s so easy to get off that compared to all the work of hooking up that scope it seems more efficient to take it apart first thing
Primary reason to demonstrate how the unit works and second is to prove where the fault is. If all the circuits looked ok on the scope we may have headed in a different direction.
@@ThePracticalMechanic brilliant, thank you. You helped me fix one of these today. What’s awesome is (to those who have never looked) these pico setups are many thousands to obtain. And vids like these allow me to not have to spend the money. Thanks again
Dear Toyota, please bring back manual shift linkage. I would pay more money for a simple system.
Agreed!!!!!!! I think the FJ cruiser was the last one to have it.
Are there two actuators in the Tundra, front and rear or just one that cleaned up. I thought I watched one video that the person said the rear was ok and he replaced an actuator that needed the case fluid drained. Just a little confused!
There is one on the transfercase(the one I repaired in the video) and there is another one on the front differential. The front unit may require fluid to be drained.
Where is your shop? I would love to take my 1st gen sequoia
Southern Colorado
@@ThePracticalMechanic damm in in Los Angeles CA lol... I have not been able to find a mechanic that knows what is wrong with my se
Sequoia
Tried this fix tonight, the gear with the small contacts (at 13:14) fell out when I popped the cover. I can't seem to find anything online for orienting that thing back into place properly. Do you know if this vehicle was in 2wd after cycling power, but before you popped the cover? I could at least start by popping the selector shaft all the way in and orienting it the same as your vid...then hoping for the best. Thanks in advance!
Did you ever figure this out ?
@@jacobhudjack9243 Yep! I found a couple of sites online that referenced putting the gear at about the 3 o'clock position in the cap. Here's the process I used -
1. Pull the gear & cap
2. Pull the cover & small spline gear on the opposite side
3. Remove the actuator housing
4. Push the 4wd selector shaft all the way in (2wd)
5. Reinstall housing
6. Align gear in cap to ~3 o'clock position
7. Verify signal via resistance checks using a DMM (you can pin out the unit before putting the gear back in, you only want continuity between the inner ground ring and the 2wd ring. Not the other ones for 4wd Hi and Lo)
8. Pop cap & gear assembly into the housing on the truck (just hold in place for now)
9. Install small spline gear to clock larger gear to the t-case shaft
10. Pull cap & gear assy, verify proper continuity one more time
11. Assemble cap & gear assy (bolt in place this time, may need to remove that spline gear again and then put it back in to get things seated)
12. Put cover back over the spline gear
13. Plug everything in and you're good to go!
Don't forget to RTV that small cover, it's also worth clearing out those threads while you have the housing off. Make sure to grease up the o-rings a little before reassembly, and I had better luck getting the cap seated with the O-ring on the cap side, not the housing side. When I was doing Step 8, I would just leave the o-ring off. One less thing to mess with for alignment.
Hopefully this helps someone!
@@jasonvandort3517 thanks for the reply man. I took my cap off last night and it was extremely corroded to the point sanding wouldnt help make the connections look much better. The worm gear was also very rusty and wouldnt move when I applied power to it (hoping i was doing it properly)
Picked up a new cap from the junkyard today and it all looks mint. Going to attempt to put it back together today. Is it okay if I direct message you if I need some help ? Thanks again
@@jacobhudjack9243 Absolutely! Good luck!
@@jasonvandort3517 can't figure out how to direct message of youtube. Email or ig?
Your completely wrong it’s actually dumb to change the whole t case. All u have to do I’d take 3. 8 mil screws out the t case motor remove cap pull gear out then remove shift motor. It’s simple
Why the hell doesnt somebody sell just that cover part?
that would make our life too easy. I got water in my elocker actuator and ended up needed to purchase a complete actuator to fix it.
No thanks, but you're wrong. I replaced that motor on the back of my transfer case and I didn't have to take my transfer case apart
he know's all that and he can;t figure out all you need to do is remove the gear through that side portal and the actuator comes right off? roflmao buy a whole new transfer case..... No don;t buy a new transfer case to replace that part it come's off easily enough.
at 1:40 you're completely wrong. You can indeed pop off the actuator. Take off that little plate with three bolts, pull the little gear out and then unbolt the actuator. If you've been replacing trans cases because you didn't know this you're a complete hack.
There were multiple other people that noted that correction before you. No need to be rude, the video is great and there's still alot of good information that inspires good positive feedback.