A bit late I Know but you definitely need a lock pin on the back of the brake pad. There should be a tiny hole in the pin that goes through the back of the brake caliper.
Andy, I really enjoy watching your videos. I'm glad you do the technical electrical stuff. But, you should have inspected the caliper piston and replaced the seal. There is no doubt corrosion in there, and that is old rubber and rather critical. You did not add the cotter pin to hold the stationary brake pad 58:30. You keep saying the bike is 30 years old. If it's a K2 that is 1972, so it's about 49 years old as of 2021.
That long as you called it union was for a bubble flare as we call them here in the US and we call them flare nuts not unions, a lot of people call the couplers that join to lines together unions here in the US. The shorter nut for us is a standard double flare nut you call concave flare. The turret style flaring tool is a greatest made for sure.
Really enjoyed this video, as most of your others too. I must say im supprised Honda chose to use a split pin instead of a circlip for bottom of that pin on the bracket, for at least asetics. But i guess 70's eara that was it. Great video, look fwd to the nxt one.
Really enjoyed this Andy .👍🏻☮❤ The 35mm mounting bolt could have been 40 or maybe 50mm as it doesn't go all the way into the casting on the fork bottom.. must be a model / vin thing ? And the caliper adjuster was designed to be adjusted from the outside like doing valve clearances , but that's great if the bike has never seen moisture dirt or salt ! them adjuster screws get properly seized in the real world .. Peace and love brother and thanks again for the wonderful videos 👍🏻☮❤
the torque setting for them10 .1.25 joining bolts on the rear of a bandit and early gsxr is 30nm. but it don't feel right . i always take them bit more
Hi Andy ,,, nice vid, really enjoyed it , and you know it's a good vid, when someone ( you ) are showing us around your work with the camera on the bike , and idiots like me are bending their heads sideways left to right to check gaps and clearances you are showing us 😂😂
Haha! I guess you are right! I don't like to try hide things, keep it transparent is what I say. Any criticism is always taken as positive input. Wishing you a great New Year. Cheers for now. Andy
Thanks Rose Electronics. I try to keep the ratio of videos with an assistant in balance. Overall they make up about 1 in 4 of those in the library. Some viewers like them very much & every Tool Girls has her own fan base for sure. I also enjoy the company on the shop & the change in dynamics too - it can get quote boring working on your own for days/weeks just talking to a camera - a bit of human interaction, be it only for a day or two every couple of months, is much appreciated. Anyway, thanks for your feedback, it's good to know you find the 'solo' videos interesting. Cheers Andy
"I'll just put some flairs on", I haven't heard that since the 70's. Great video Andy even without the Tool Girls!
A bit late I Know but you definitely need a lock pin on the back of the brake pad. There should be a tiny hole in the pin that goes through the back of the brake caliper.
Andy, I really enjoy watching your videos. I'm glad you do the technical electrical stuff. But, you should have inspected the caliper piston and replaced the seal. There is no doubt corrosion in there, and that is old rubber and rather critical. You did not add the cotter pin to hold the stationary brake pad 58:30. You keep saying the bike is 30 years old. If it's a K2 that is 1972, so it's about 49 years old as of 2021.
That long as you called it union was for a bubble flare as we call them here in the US and we call them flare nuts not unions, a lot of people call the couplers that join to lines together unions here in the US. The shorter nut for us is a standard double flare nut you call concave flare. The turret style flaring tool is a greatest made for sure.
Instablaster...
Always love to hear your thought process as you go through a repair. And greetings from Texas
Thanks David. Hope you are having a good Holidays. Cheers Andy
I deffo appreciate ur attention to detail, lost on a lotta people these days
Nice work. Absolutely frustrating when the manual is silent, wrong or just unclear. Alan will be doing stoppies in no time.
Really enjoyed this video, as most of your others too. I must say im supprised Honda chose to use a split pin instead of a circlip for bottom of that pin on the bracket, for at least asetics. But i guess 70's eara that was it. Great video, look fwd to the nxt one.
Honda has a service bulletin about the looseness of the front brake arm. It is 750 #34 titeled “disc brake Caliper Noise ’’ dated 5/4/72
Been waiting for this one Andy...
Really enjoyed this Andy .👍🏻☮❤
The 35mm mounting bolt could have been 40 or maybe 50mm as it doesn't go all the way into the casting on the fork bottom.. must be a model / vin thing ?
And the caliper adjuster
was designed to be adjusted from the outside like doing valve clearances , but that's great if the bike has never seen moisture dirt or salt ! them adjuster screws get properly seized in the real world ..
Peace and love brother and thanks again for the wonderful videos 👍🏻☮❤
do i need the bolt and spring thingy as ive lost mine?? cheers western australia
Andy you need to get yourself some die grinders a dremel tool and some wire wheels
Was not explained how to remove the piston and the rubber seal inside the body groove and its proper lubrication in the assembly process.
Correct. Piston & seal were not removed. This is NOT a caliper overhaul video - there are a few of those already on my channel.
Cheers
Andy
the torque setting for them10 .1.25 joining bolts on the rear of a bandit and early gsxr is 30nm. but it don't feel right . i always take them bit more
Good Morning Simon :-)
Andy,
Where did you get the new brake pads as the ones in the UK don't have the locating pin on the outer side of the caliper?
Awaiting your reply
I got a whole brake assembly, new from ebay $100 Canadian, with those pads
Hi Andy ,,, nice vid, really enjoyed it , and you know it's a good vid, when someone ( you ) are showing us around your work with the camera on the bike , and idiots like me are bending their heads sideways left to right to check gaps and clearances you are showing us 😂😂
Haha! I guess you are right! I don't like to try hide things, keep it transparent is what I say. Any criticism is always taken as positive input. Wishing you a great New Year. Cheers for now. Andy
@@AndyMechanic Happy new year fella, i know 2021 is going to be an awesome one for you
Do the axcel bolts 2 on each side does the caps have to go on a certain way thanks
Enjoy your repair videos much more when you are not constantly asking Toolgirls for repair advice.
Bloody kiwi regs
Your repair videos are better without the toolgirls.
Thanks Rose Electronics. I try to keep the ratio of videos with an assistant in balance. Overall they make up about 1 in 4 of those in the library.
Some viewers like them very much & every Tool Girls has her own fan base for sure. I also enjoy the company on the shop & the change in dynamics too - it can get quote boring working on your own for days/weeks just talking to a camera - a bit of human interaction, be it only for a day or two every couple of months, is much appreciated.
Anyway, thanks for your feedback, it's good to know you find the 'solo' videos interesting.
Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic thanks for the response. i give you the credit of teaching me how to service starters and alternators.
Thank You :-) it's knowing that the videos are helpful is the reward for me, makes it all worth while.
Cheers Andy
Put the split pin into the pad pin