Hands down the best how to video on bikes out there. Every piece you touched was explained clearly and concisely. You made the process so easy you didn't even have to move from a sitting position. Please make more videos.
Just about to start changing my front brake pads. Your excellent explanation of how to do that helps me as a beginning mechanic more than you can think of. Thanks a lot😎👊
@@SevenFortyOne It sure did. Fixed the job in a little 3 hours for both calipers, for me as a non-mechanic, from preparation 'til cleaned everything up. Everything works and no parts left😜and it was fun to do also. Thanks again😎👊
Great video, thanks for sharing this. Many inspections points were pointed out. One thing I'd like to add is that if petroleum based grease is used in any rubber parts they will swell and destroy the rubber. Always use red rubber grease on the rubber seals and boots, multi-purpose grease will damage them!!!
I've got a 1981 CM400 A and it's front caliper is jamming closed. It has only one cylinder/piston, but this video gives me lots of options as to where my problem(s) might be. Hopefully, I will be able to locate the issue and restore the front brake to proper working order. I really like that there's no brake bleeding required. : - )
@@SevenFortyOne Well, from what I can see, the single piston is what's "sticking". But it could be a combination of things. I just had a friend replace the brake assembly on the handle bar and he also bled the system. He remarked that the bike was then very hard to roll around. He thought there was some other problem, but once I rode the bike home and checked the front brake, by getting the front wheel off the ground, it just did not want to spin - without some effort. I got the bike at an auction last September and the caliper was not mounted to the front fork. Also, I found it impossible to bleed using typical methods. As to its time sitting, not being ridden, the PA Plate had an inspection sticker from 1987! So, it seems quite possible that that piston needs to be feed up. The only way to know is to put some effort in and see if it solves the problem.
@@SevenFortyOne I was able to free up the "piston" with help from your video! No bleeding required. The piston probably had something on its surface that caused it to not retract. I took off the caliper, took the pads out and just worked the piston in and out adding some PB Blaster, then some WD - 40 and after 4 - 5 in out cycles (for each product) added a coating of lithium grease. I reassembled everything and remounted it on the left side fork and all works well! I'm very happy!
Disc breaks are fine and quick, but they do tend to size in the pistons and slide pins and anything else that things move on. Stands to reason though, they are open to the elements, unlike drum breaks that used to overheat, but at least stayed on the hole trouble free. Just get rid of any dust and lightly lub any moving parts and that was it. It just has to be done more often with disc breaks! I used the coper based grease, very little of it, two reasons, grease will spread and it will attract dust and grit. Look after them and they will be there when you need them.
Great video.. how bout on a 1981 cb900c? I have both a 1981 and a 1982 cb900c. Their brakes are different, the former w/ single piston, the latter with two. The former also has a number of clips. My question: On the 1981 model, how/where does one position the "retainer clips"? Not to be confused with the "anti rattle" clip. There are 2 per caliper and I can't remember exactly how they fit and/or find any pictures of same. Thanking in advance! Peter
Hi, you showed it great. I disassembled my caliper and unfortunately the rubber bands of the sleeve shown at minute 9:20 tore. Do you have any information about a store where I can buy them? I can't track them down, I'm from Poland. Regards
@@SevenFortyOne Today I assembled the caliper after completely disassembling and painting it. I bought the rubber bands in Poland, they fit e.g. Honta VT 500. It's good that you showed how to put them on, because I wouldn't have thought of it, and I was making mistakes ;) I haven't watched your other videos and today I saw that you are a shortwave radio operator, so am I, Mariusz SP5WIQ 73 ;)
I got this same caliper from a junkyard today for a go Kart. I have a question regarding mounting. Why do the mounting points have bushings and grease? Aren't the mounting points supposed to be solid and non moving so the only part that moves when braking is the piston to touch the rotor? Please advise me as i am a beginner
I'm not a doctor but I think the slide pins allow both sides of the caliper to put equal force on rotor. If only the piston moved and pushed one side in it wouldn't work as well or release properly when the pressure is released
@@SevenFortyOne thank you, also at 1:48 that bushing you are able to slide around.Mine has zero movement and I can't even make it budge. Any tips to free it? Thanks
@@fishertech They get dried out and seize up over time. Maybe tap it gently with a small hammer to loosen it up. Use a small block of wood on top of the bushing to protect it from damage. Go slow and be careful. You could try squirting some penetrating oil or PB blast in there too but that may damage the rubber boot so keep that in mind when selecting a product to use.
I hate this system so bad. The front pad retainer pins don't come out at all, even with the retainer hardware removed. Only one of the pistons goes back. I have more trouble with these stwpid front brakes than anything else at all, short of the carb and battery connectors. To h377 with it, I'm just buying a whole new caliper.
I have that problem and the brakes ended up freezing. I rebuilt the caliber and the master cylinder but there's still barely dragging on the rotor the rear brake doesn't stop real well. With My other bikes I could slam the brakes..only when testing ...and they skid. this one doesn't appear to do that LOL I'm told that the 1980 CB900 or in that era are known for that. Could air in the system possibly cause this?
Hands down the best how to video on bikes out there. Every piece you touched was explained clearly and concisely. You made the process so easy you didn't even have to move from a sitting position. Please make more videos.
thanks for the positive feedback!
Just about to start changing my front brake pads. Your excellent explanation of how to do that helps me as a beginning mechanic more than you can think of. Thanks a lot😎👊
Glad this helps!!!
@@SevenFortyOne It sure did. Fixed the job in a little 3 hours for both calipers, for me as a non-mechanic, from preparation 'til cleaned everything up. Everything works and no parts left😜and it was fun to do also. Thanks again😎👊
As someone else said it’s not as much a repair as a diagnostic video but still clear and helpful for changing pads and cleaning. Thanks.
Just found you before I do the same thing to my 1981 cb650.You will be a big help.Thanks
Excellent video my friend. Very concise and detailed..helped with my rebuild. Much appreciated!
Great video, thanks for sharing this. Many inspections points were pointed out. One thing I'd like to add is that if petroleum based grease is used in any rubber parts they will swell and destroy the rubber. Always use red rubber grease on the rubber seals and boots, multi-purpose grease will damage them!!!
Those boots on the slide pins always gave me fits, great video! Take care
epic video, slide bushing editing cracked me up, went through same process a couple months ago
Drained mine every year or two. Stainless-steel brake lines are great investments too. Practical post. Thanx.
I've got a 1981 CM400 A and it's front caliper is jamming closed. It has only one cylinder/piston, but this video gives me lots of options as to where my problem(s) might be. Hopefully, I will be able to locate the issue and restore the front brake to proper working order. I really like that there's no brake bleeding required. : - )
I think you'll need to bleed it if you drain any fluid. Check your brake hose to make sure it isn't collapsed.
@@SevenFortyOne Well, from what I can see, the single piston is what's "sticking". But it could be a combination of things. I just had a friend replace the brake assembly on the handle bar and he also bled the system. He remarked that the bike was then very hard to roll around. He thought there was some other problem, but once I rode the bike home and checked the front brake, by getting the front wheel off the ground, it just did not want to spin - without some effort. I got the bike at an auction last September and the caliper was not mounted to the front fork. Also, I found it impossible to bleed using typical methods. As to its time sitting, not being ridden, the PA Plate had an inspection sticker from 1987! So, it seems quite possible that that piston needs to be feed up. The only way to know is to put some effort in and see if it solves the problem.
@@SevenFortyOne I was able to free up the "piston" with help from your video! No bleeding required. The piston probably had something on its surface that caused it to not retract. I took off the caliper, took the pads out and just worked the piston in and out adding some PB Blaster, then some WD - 40 and after 4 - 5 in out cycles (for each product) added a coating of lithium grease. I reassembled everything and remounted it on the left side fork and all works well! I'm very happy!
@@scyz2807 awesome! Glad you got it sorted!
@@SevenFortyOne Your video motivated me to give it a try! So, thank you! : - )
Thanks for the the video. My brek caliper is all missed up and am wondering if there a caliper that i can use from new cb generation (2000 and up)
Disc breaks are fine and quick, but they do tend to size in the pistons and slide pins and anything else that things move on. Stands to reason though, they are open to the elements, unlike drum breaks that used to overheat, but at least stayed on the hole trouble free. Just get rid of any dust and lightly lub any moving parts and that was it. It just has to be done more often with disc breaks! I used the coper based grease, very little of it, two reasons, grease will spread and it will attract dust and grit. Look after them and they will be there when you need them.
Great video.. how bout on a 1981 cb900c? I have both a 1981 and a 1982 cb900c. Their brakes are different, the former w/ single piston, the latter with two. The former also has a number of clips. My question: On the 1981 model, how/where does one position the "retainer clips"? Not to be confused with the "anti rattle" clip. There are 2 per caliper and I can't remember exactly how they fit and/or find any pictures of same. Thanking in advance! Peter
I don't have a cb900 so I don't know how that bike is set up
@@SevenFortyOne Darn! Hoping that these Retainer Clips were pretty standard fare. Oh well, thanks for getting back to me.
Awesome video, exactly what I needed.
Thank you so much for posting this.....Great Job....
You're welcome!
Hi, you showed it great. I disassembled my caliper and unfortunately the rubber bands of the sleeve shown at minute 9:20 tore. Do you have any information about a store where I can buy them? I can't track them down, I'm from Poland.
Regards
You might try The Old Bik Barn for parts. I'm not sure if they ship to Poland. oldbikebarn.com/
@@SevenFortyOne Today I assembled the caliper after completely disassembling and painting it. I bought the rubber bands in Poland, they fit e.g. Honta VT 500. It's good that you showed how to put them on, because I wouldn't have thought of it, and I was making mistakes ;) I haven't watched your other videos and today I saw that you are a shortwave radio operator, so am I, Mariusz SP5WIQ 73 ;)
God to hear you got your caliper put together. I look forward to hearing you on the air. 73, N1NUG
oh wow, best, video, ever.
Nice and informative. Thanks for your time.
I got this same caliper from a junkyard today for a go Kart. I have a question regarding mounting. Why do the mounting points have bushings and grease? Aren't the mounting points supposed to be solid and non moving so the only part that moves when braking is the piston to touch the rotor? Please advise me as i am a beginner
I'm not a doctor but I think the slide pins allow both sides of the caliper to put equal force on rotor. If only the piston moved and pushed one side in it wouldn't work as well or release properly when the pressure is released
@@SevenFortyOne thank you, also at 1:48 that bushing you are able to slide around.Mine has zero movement and I can't even make it budge. Any tips to free it? Thanks
@@fishertech They get dried out and seize up over time. Maybe tap it gently with a small hammer to loosen it up. Use a small block of wood on top of the bushing to protect it from damage. Go slow and be careful. You could try squirting some penetrating oil or PB blast in there too but that may damage the rubber boot so keep that in mind when selecting a product to use.
@@SevenFortyOne thank you, i got it out and yes it was covered in rust. going to wirewheel. appreciate the help
I have an 85 Honda shadow, and my caliper is leaking fluid! Do I need to replace it or can I fix it?
You should ask a mechanic if you aren't sure.
I hate this system so bad.
The front pad retainer pins don't come out at all, even with the retainer hardware removed. Only one of the pistons goes back.
I have more trouble with these stwpid front brakes than anything else at all, short of the carb and battery connectors.
To h377 with it, I'm just buying a whole new caliper.
Very informative. Thank you.
I really like this video
9:30 was that an “oops”, with the pin/boot?
bad editing...the previous clip should have been removed rom the video
Good job on describing...thanks
Thank you.
it could have been suction in Brake Reservoir if vent hole is blocked
I have that problem and the brakes ended up freezing. I rebuilt the caliber and the master cylinder but there's still barely dragging on the rotor the rear brake doesn't stop real well. With My other bikes I could slam the brakes..only when testing ...and they skid. this one doesn't appear to do that LOL I'm told that the 1980 CB900 or in that era are known for that. Could air in the system possibly cause this?
nice video thank you
I just rebuilt my rear caliper and in master cylinder and I'm having that problem.
There was not a single repair done in this video, the title should read caliper diag
But he fixet a problem that wasn't there
If completely taking apart and reassembling the caliper doesn't help you with your repair, you need to go to a mechanic.
Should roll easier, less heat, better gas.
Hiiiii