I really liked the way you are, straight to the point. please keep being yourself. do not care about TH-cam algorithm, just take care of us, we will be around for you. Thank you.
Happy Printing! I look forward to watch more explorations of yours. Thank you for all the hard work. While not having a printer of mine yet, I enjoy your content and the information you give is very greatest. Happy Printing!
I know it's kind of a meme, but I have multiple Creality filaments including PLA-CF, transparent PETG, and Ultra ABS and I'm pretty pleased with all of them. Also got incredible prices thanks to Amazon price drops, so I really can't complain. Just wanted to put that out there in case anyone questions the filament choices or is curious. My guess for retraction affecting layer adhesion is that 5mm of retraction means the printhead remains stationary during the retract and unretract moves. 5mm at a fairly slow stock retraction speed setting will add up to a lot of time very quickly. This allows the layer to cool, and the next lines laid down won't adhere as well. That connects back to the slower printers having worse adhesion, actually. Same basic concept. If you are able to lay down the next layer while the previous is still hot, you get the best bonding. Balancing cooling the line as it is laid down and keeping the plastic hot to bond well is the real secret sauce to adhesion I suppose. Once again the K1 falls kinda short. It was really just not a fully baked product I think. Their extruder design is still bad even if they have improved it. I suspect the SV08 has the best adhesion with the fixed extrusion for the same reason just discussed. It was fastest, so best adhesion, just like faster Bambu Lab machines scored higher. The nozzles could definitely make a difference. I believe another channel has tested nozzles with layer adhesion specifically. It may affect the temperature the filament is actually seeing more than anything. Truly temperature equalizing printers at the nozzle with external probes then seeing how speed affects adhesion would be cool! Great video that gives some answers and asks a lot of questions. :)
Thanks again for a great video. This is not a test that I would have thought of but it is very helpful to me and validates my choice to stick with Bambu Lab in my small print farm. These videos are examples of why you’re one of my favorite channels.
@@MyTechFun Why not use the input shaper profiles? Those seem to be the most used. The 0.20 STRUCTURAL has 45mm/s outer wall, 80mm/s inner and faster for the infill. The faster profile has 170mm/s for just about everything iirc.
Great video as always. I'm more looking forward to strength difference of ASA in the qidi vs the others since it has a heated chamber. Also strength difference of ASA/ABS when allowed to cool down slowly in the chamber vs taking out the part immediately.
I have a Voron that can print ASA in an 80C chamber, I can print samples for you to compare. It should be twice as strong in the layer adhesion department. Let me know if you are interested.
Funny how consistent the Bambu lab printers are with each other. I’m also surprised at how much stronger the FLSun SR & Sovol SV08 are and how consistent that is. Great video as always.
Nice about Bambu printers, that they hold this quality on different speeds too. Tested earlier. th-cam.com/video/W3SCl302CP4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zF6nejGcS1jQpXjK
@@MyTechFunI have the same problem with this video and the recent PETG testing video. Neither of them show up in my subscription feed, but your other recent videos do. I have notifications turned off, but this is my preference with all of my subscriptions.
Yep, same goes for me. I got here only through your post about the low viewership on this video, it didn't show up in my feed at all. I have subscribed, but no bell notifications.
Small editing suggestion: Keep your graph's labels a bit further from screen edges, in order for the TH-cam overlay controls not to obscure them when video is paused (I always pause on the graphs to analyze it better). ... Otherwise thanks, great job :)
That's super interesting about the retraction settings affecting layer strength so much! I'm glad I have spent so much time tuning my pressure advance settings. With the Bowden extruder on my Ender 3 V2, my retractions are around 0.85 mm(!) for most filaments. Cool to learn that might mean my prints are stronger as a result. 😊 (I keep meaning to start doing my own testing.) Thanks for all the testing you do, Igor. I know it probably takes an incredible amount of time. I am glad you investigate when results are different than expected, like with the unusually low adhesion with the Ender 3 S1 and the under extrusion with the Sovol.
I like the new condensed video. Maybe it will stop people skipping to the end. Interesting the slow printers had bad layer adhesion. I wonder if you did a test with different max flow rates in the slicer, you will get a bell curve with a sweep spot of best layer adhesion.
I finally watched it. The differences are NOT negligible! Kudos for Bambu Lab - their products are very consistent and reliable. NOW: Nickel Plated nozzles - they are my favorite because they are made of copper inside and the nickel plating make them less adherent to the plastic… I am unsure of what would make them produce stronger parts (is it the increased heat transfer from the copper? Or a smoother laying down of the plastic?). The more you test, the more questions we have 🤣❤️ Thanks Igor! You’re the man!
Nice investigation as usual. I would be interested in hearing the results of your further testing regarding the effect of retraction even if only as an addendum to another video. Also, if you have time, I think it would be interesting to add pressure advance to that test as it may effect layer adhesion in a similar way to retraction. I also liked your investigations into PLA annealing and I think you should make that investigation a 3-part series by testing the effectiveness of solvent induced crystallization. There is a paper published on this from 2020 but they used spun-filament mats instead of printed test parts. The alcohol annealed parts showed greater crystallization with less deformation than the 85C heat-treated parts. I would be really interested to see if the chemical crystallization can penetrate enough of printed parts to improve heat resistance and mechanical properties. The title of the paper is : Effects of thermal annealing and solvent-induced crystallization on the structure and properties of poly(lactic acid) microfibres produced by high-speed electrospinning
Thanks for the short and sweet video. Nice too see I was wrong for slower prints to be more solid, somehow high speed is also a sin for strength; great news! One idea for future test is to play with the bambulab 50%, 100%, 120% and 150% speed settings available in the printer UI. This way all the variables are fixed. Under current theory the faster the print, the higher the strength? If it is about cooling the also printing per object on the plate instead of per layer (across objects) would also affect results.
I was expecting the hardened steel nozzle on the X1C to have lower strength because of its lower thermal conductivity. Your comment on the slower printers having more time to cool down makes sense to me. Might be interesting to plot strength against printing speed (or time to completion) to see if there's a correlation. Maybe these variables you are investigating will one day make it into the slicing programmes, it sounds like it should. Thanks for your work!
@@MyTechFun I did miss that one and have just watched it, you showed higher speed, lower layer adhesion. This contradicts the tests in this video where the faster machines had better adhesion.
@klave8511 it's different, but not contradictive, because here we have different printers, there sane printer. I still think if circumstences are same, slower should be stronger.
Awesome video. Further to this thread, it would be interesting to compare layer adhesion to layer time. I.e. are we damaging our layer adhesion by loading the plate with many parts?
the default nozzle on the P1P is stainless steel, same on the A1 I think. And I remember stainless steel having worse thermal conductivity compared to brass, so I raised the temp by about 5C to match the appearance and the adhesion. Print temperature should also make a difference when printed.
Yap, the evolution fortunately can be seen! Btw on hot summer days with no AC, my X1C has started to make lots of spaghetti failure with PETG BBL, 0.6mm nozzle
Fantastic work. I wonder if there is a sweet spot for previous layer temperature fir optimal adhesion. Or perhaps extruding at a faster rate means more pressure and their more adhesion? Could you see if you can get one of the other fast printers to match layer adhesion of the sovol ( fixed) by increasing speed settings? Thabk you for tour time I only have one printer so can't do tests like this. I print 230inner230outter on my k2max and im happy with the qualiry and strength. 😁
Combining these results with what others found it looks like higher speeds are better up to the point where the extruder can properly melt the filament. About the copper nozzle of the Sovol, going to copper high flow nozzles like the ones from Triangle lab, or even their volcano versions might well further improve results. They will also enable higher speeds or wider / thicker lines maybe further improving results.
Great video! I've wondered how much different printers affect the overall quality\strength. I wonder if the same theory applies for other filaments, specifically tpu.
This test should probably be repeated on the same printer, such as X1C or SV08, but adjust the speed of each part and see if faster does give better layer adhesion. Would also be interesting to see how much nozzle temp affects the layer adhesion, between the minimum 190C to the max 230C for PLA. Might mean printing hotter with poorer quality if layer adhesion is important.
I would think, that faster printer will do better at layer adhesion. That's just my theory but: with high speed printers top layer will not cool down as much and therefore will connect to the new layer better (same temperature wiggle of filament molecules). The wait for new layer is just visual matter, as top layer that is still hot can deform due to nozzle drag. Maybe try same testing sample but force printer to not cool between layers (without that dices) - for it to put next layers on hot previous one.
Fel vagyok iratkozva, de a feliratkozas videok között nem jelenik meg ez a video. Csak a kezdőlapon ajánlotta fel, onnan vettem észre, hogy új video jelent meg. Ez miért van? Már nem ez az első alkalom...
Rajtad kívűl még ketten jelezték ezt a jelenséget. Mostanában sokan jelölték be azt a "csengőt", gondolom YT úgy gondolja, túl sok lenne nekem ennyi megtekintés.. Fura
Would be great to see the same tests with the slowest printers and the print temperature gradually increased until strength was similar to the other printers...I have a MK4 and V400(like the sr only larger/better with direct drive) and I was always under the impression that the MK4 was superior to the v400 in regard to strength of prints........... (the temp I use for PLA/PLA+ is 220c)
@@MyTechFun it looks like your are using the non input shaper MK4 printer in printer settings. There the printing profile name is quality. When you use the MK4 input shaper profile ( you need to add a new printer) the quality profile is named "structural".
@@Dauphin21x2 I don't use stock nozzle bolts any more. This is the disadvantage of stock input shaping, without possibility to do a vibration compensation test..
@@MyTechFun I am subscribed with all notifications turned on and I was not notified. I have a lot of subscriptions, but it shouldn't stop me from getting this notification. TH-cam can be so frustrating. I did see the video pop up on my main feed when I opened the app, but no notification. So weird.
Ok so bambu printers have either stainless or hardened steel nozzles, but that is only for their tip, the body is always brass and that is why you got similar results :)
Since SV08 has a solid unmoving bed, is it possible it's pushing the nozzle more forcefully against the last extrusion, while other beds can bend away slightly? Too small a difference to notice usually?
I wonder these results has anything to do with part cooling. Cnc kitchen had one test where he changed part cooling fan speed and he got different results. So maybe MK4 is cooling the part way too much or the slow print speed allows the part to cool down too much. I definitely did not expect MK4 to be one of the worst in terms of layer adhesion.
Depend of the printer, some machines are ready for higher speeds too. In case you missed it: th-cam.com/video/W3SCl302CP4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zF6nejGcS1jQpXjK
Okay so layer adhesion doesnt go out the window with speed if ur inside the flow rate of ur hotend. The sv08 i saw people with bad layer adhesion when printing fast. And it seems like you figured out why! Its not calibrated right. Good to know that its simply a E step issue
I have better video for this. If filament is properly melted, then the layer adhesion don't depend from speed to much. Until the same flow is served. th-cam.com/video/W3SCl302CP4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=etIJPGXReDxOdaaC
Hey My Tech Fun, I think it would be nice to also have a comparison of enclosed printers like the X1C or the QIUI with the door open or not open, to see if there's a difference for materials like PLA!
@@MyTechFun yea I actually now did a bit of research on the topic and people talk about heat creeping, although it never happened to me. Just wanted to know if with PLA we would also get greater layer adhesion with a higher temperature chamber
@@MyTechFun I have another question, if you can answer. What setting did you use for the Bambu lab printers? Default PLA? I'm saying this because this has a slower printing speed when compared to BambuLab's Basic PLA profile, which could result in higher values, as seen in the printer with the highest speeds!
You need to display the variation in the 4 tests for each printer that you did and not just the average value. I.e., - show the span of the strengths for each average value. This will give a more complete picture of the data.
Hey, would it be possible to test the new High Speed PETG filaments and see how their properties differ from regular PETG? There is no such review on YT yet. Elegoo Rapid PETG Bambulab PETG HF Esun ePETG+HS This is all I found, but there might be more.
I realy wondered why the slow printers had so bad layer adhesion. Only thing I can imagine is that the temperature is to hot for the material and it begins to degrade because it is in the heat zone for to long. Would be realy great if you could test this.
“It’s bad for my channel but idc” instant like 👍🏼
I really liked the way you are, straight to the point. please keep being yourself. do not care about TH-cam algorithm, just take care of us, we will be around for you. Thank you.
Its always refreshing to see some science in 3d printing like your video .
Happy Printing!
I look forward to watch more explorations of yours. Thank you for all the hard work. While not having a printer of mine yet, I enjoy your content and the information you give is very greatest.
Happy Printing!
I know it's kind of a meme, but I have multiple Creality filaments including PLA-CF, transparent PETG, and Ultra ABS and I'm pretty pleased with all of them. Also got incredible prices thanks to Amazon price drops, so I really can't complain. Just wanted to put that out there in case anyone questions the filament choices or is curious.
My guess for retraction affecting layer adhesion is that 5mm of retraction means the printhead remains stationary during the retract and unretract moves. 5mm at a fairly slow stock retraction speed setting will add up to a lot of time very quickly. This allows the layer to cool, and the next lines laid down won't adhere as well.
That connects back to the slower printers having worse adhesion, actually. Same basic concept. If you are able to lay down the next layer while the previous is still hot, you get the best bonding. Balancing cooling the line as it is laid down and keeping the plastic hot to bond well is the real secret sauce to adhesion I suppose.
Once again the K1 falls kinda short. It was really just not a fully baked product I think. Their extruder design is still bad even if they have improved it. I suspect the SV08 has the best adhesion with the fixed extrusion for the same reason just discussed. It was fastest, so best adhesion, just like faster Bambu Lab machines scored higher.
The nozzles could definitely make a difference. I believe another channel has tested nozzles with layer adhesion specifically. It may affect the temperature the filament is actually seeing more than anything. Truly temperature equalizing printers at the nozzle with external probes then seeing how speed affects adhesion would be cool!
Great video that gives some answers and asks a lot of questions. :)
he also tested nozzles for layer adhesion :)
Thanks again for a great video. This is not a test that I would have thought of but it is very helpful to me and validates my choice to stick with Bambu Lab in my small print farm. These videos are examples of why you’re one of my favorite channels.
You are an inspiration. Its a shame TH-cam isn't promoting your videos more often.
wonderful! who would have thought retraction effected layer adhesion
Thanks for all of your work! Super interesting stuff as always for everybody who never stops learning.
Great video Igor, it's great to see my bambu A1 perform so well.
This was a great idea, but printing at 25 mm/s on the Prusa MK4 is likely not realistic at all. Who gets a MK4 to print at Ultimaker 2 (2013!) speeds?
Default setting for 0.2 mm layer quality.
@@MyTechFun Why not use the input shaper profiles? Those seem to be the most used. The 0.20 STRUCTURAL has 45mm/s outer wall, 80mm/s inner and faster for the infill. The faster profile has 170mm/s for just about everything iirc.
Appreciate the shorter video, first tike i didnt skip to the end
Thanks for another great video
Great video as always. I'm more looking forward to strength difference of ASA in the qidi vs the others since it has a heated chamber. Also strength difference of ASA/ABS when allowed to cool down slowly in the chamber vs taking out the part immediately.
I have a Voron that can print ASA in an 80C chamber, I can print samples for you to compare. It should be twice as strong in the layer adhesion department. Let me know if you are interested.
Funny how consistent the Bambu lab printers are with each other. I’m also surprised at how much stronger the FLSun SR & Sovol SV08 are and how consistent that is. Great video as always.
Nice about Bambu printers, that they hold this quality on different speeds too. Tested earlier. th-cam.com/video/W3SCl302CP4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zF6nejGcS1jQpXjK
It's so weird, this video is not showing up on my subscription feed. TH-cam is really fucking this channel up!
You are the third one who mentioned it (just for curiosity, Subscribed with notifications or no notifications?)
@@MyTechFunI have the same problem with this video and the recent PETG testing video. Neither of them show up in my subscription feed, but your other recent videos do. I have notifications turned off, but this is my preference with all of my subscriptions.
@@MyTechFun I don't have all notifications enable, only personalized. I will try with the bell on to see if the next one will show up.
Yep, same goes for me. I got here only through your post about the low viewership on this video, it didn't show up in my feed at all. I have subscribed, but no bell notifications.
Small editing suggestion:
Keep your graph's labels a bit further from screen edges, in order for the TH-cam overlay controls not to obscure them when video is paused (I always pause on the graphs to analyze it better).
... Otherwise thanks, great job :)
That's super interesting about the retraction settings affecting layer strength so much! I'm glad I have spent so much time tuning my pressure advance settings. With the Bowden extruder on my Ender 3 V2, my retractions are around 0.85 mm(!) for most filaments. Cool to learn that might mean my prints are stronger as a result. 😊
(I keep meaning to start doing my own testing.)
Thanks for all the testing you do, Igor. I know it probably takes an incredible amount of time. I am glad you investigate when results are different than expected, like with the unusually low adhesion with the Ender 3 S1 and the under extrusion with the Sovol.
I like the new condensed video. Maybe it will stop people skipping to the end.
Interesting the slow printers had bad layer adhesion. I wonder if you did a test with different max flow rates in the slicer, you will get a bell curve with a sweep spot of best layer adhesion.
Very interesting to see that slow speed affects layer adhesion negatively. I thought it would be the other way round. Thanks for this video Igor :)
Oh, I soooo wanna see this! 😂
I finally watched it. The differences are NOT negligible! Kudos for Bambu Lab - their products are very consistent and reliable. NOW: Nickel Plated nozzles - they are my favorite because they are made of copper inside and the nickel plating make them less adherent to the plastic… I am unsure of what would make them produce stronger parts (is it the increased heat transfer from the copper? Or a smoother laying down of the plastic?). The more you test, the more questions we have 🤣❤️ Thanks Igor! You’re the man!
Спасибо, очень интересные тесты!
Nice investigation as usual. I would be interested in hearing the results of your further testing regarding the effect of retraction even if only as an addendum to another video. Also, if you have time, I think it would be interesting to add pressure advance to that test as it may effect layer adhesion in a similar way to retraction.
I also liked your investigations into PLA annealing and I think you should make that investigation a 3-part series by testing the effectiveness of solvent induced crystallization. There is a paper published on this from 2020 but they used spun-filament mats instead of printed test parts. The alcohol annealed parts showed greater crystallization with less deformation than the 85C heat-treated parts. I would be really interested to see if the chemical crystallization can penetrate enough of printed parts to improve heat resistance and mechanical properties.
The title of the paper is : Effects of thermal annealing and solvent-induced crystallization on the structure and properties of poly(lactic acid) microfibres produced by high-speed electrospinning
retraction video would be great!
I don't think it matters too much which printer
Thanks for the short and sweet video. Nice too see I was wrong for slower prints to be more solid, somehow high speed is also a sin for strength; great news!
One idea for future test is to play with the bambulab 50%, 100%, 120% and 150% speed settings available in the printer UI. This way all the variables are fixed. Under current theory the faster the print, the higher the strength?
If it is about cooling the also printing per object on the plate instead of per layer (across objects) would also affect results.
Thx. Something like this? th-cam.com/video/W3SCl302CP4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=eeb9QRNh_DChTIhX
I was expecting the hardened steel nozzle on the X1C to have lower strength because of its lower thermal conductivity. Your comment on the slower printers having more time to cool down makes sense to me. Might be interesting to plot strength against printing speed (or time to completion) to see if there's a correlation. Maybe these variables you are investigating will one day make it into the slicing programmes, it sounds like it should. Thanks for your work!
On bambu nozzles on the tip is hardened or stainless, the body is brass so no issues
In case you missed it: Speed vs layer adhesion and quality th-cam.com/video/W3SCl302CP4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zF6nejGcS1jQpXjK
@@MyTechFun I did miss that one and have just watched it, you showed higher speed, lower layer adhesion. This contradicts the tests in this video where the faster machines had better adhesion.
@klave8511 it's different, but not contradictive, because here we have different printers, there sane printer. I still think if circumstences are same, slower should be stronger.
Awesome video. Further to this thread, it would be interesting to compare layer adhesion to layer time. I.e. are we damaging our layer adhesion by loading the plate with many parts?
the default nozzle on the P1P is stainless steel, same on the A1 I think. And I remember stainless steel having worse thermal conductivity compared to brass, so I raised the temp by about 5C to match the appearance and the adhesion. Print temperature should also make a difference when printed.
Yap, the evolution fortunately can be seen!
Btw on hot summer days with no AC, my X1C has started to make lots of spaghetti failure with PETG BBL, 0.6mm nozzle
You leave both doors opened? For PLA, PETG my doors are always opened (actually, PLA, PETG I like better to print on P1P)
@@MyTechFun The top is slightly opened, but it seems I have to open it more seriously
Fantastic work. I wonder if there is a sweet spot for previous layer temperature fir optimal adhesion. Or perhaps extruding at a faster rate means more pressure and their more adhesion?
Could you see if you can get one of the other fast printers to match layer adhesion of the sovol ( fixed) by increasing speed settings?
Thabk you for tour time I only have one printer so can't do tests like this.
I print 230inner230outter on my k2max and im happy with the qualiry and strength. 😁
Combining these results with what others found it looks like higher speeds are better up to the point where the extruder can properly melt the filament.
About the copper nozzle of the Sovol, going to copper high flow nozzles like the ones from Triangle lab, or even their volcano versions might well further improve results. They will also enable higher speeds or wider / thicker lines maybe further improving results.
Great thinking and conclusoins. Thank you! Yes. Fast printers are good to point where extruder pushes properly the material.
I vote for a video for retraction effect on layer adhesion test! For me any commercial printer is okay. :)
Great video! I've wondered how much different printers affect the overall quality\strength. I wonder if the same theory applies for other filaments, specifically tpu.
This test should probably be repeated on the same printer, such as X1C or SV08, but adjust the speed of each part and see if faster does give better layer adhesion.
Would also be interesting to see how much nozzle temp affects the layer adhesion, between the minimum 190C to the max 230C for PLA. Might mean printing hotter with poorer quality if layer adhesion is important.
Something like this? th-cam.com/video/W3SCl302CP4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=w4Iy3rexcjI-bULN
I would think, that faster printer will do better at layer adhesion. That's just my theory but: with high speed printers top layer will not cool down as much and therefore will connect to the new layer better (same temperature wiggle of filament molecules). The wait for new layer is just visual matter, as top layer that is still hot can deform due to nozzle drag. Maybe try same testing sample but force printer to not cool between layers (without that dices) - for it to put next layers on hot previous one.
Watched it now, after your post.
No clue why the prusa is so low.
Fel vagyok iratkozva, de a feliratkozas videok között nem jelenik meg ez a video. Csak a kezdőlapon ajánlotta fel, onnan vettem észre, hogy új video jelent meg. Ez miért van? Már nem ez az első alkalom...
Rajtad kívűl még ketten jelezték ezt a jelenséget. Mostanában sokan jelölték be azt a "csengőt", gondolom YT úgy gondolja, túl sok lenne nekem ennyi megtekintés.. Fura
Always amazing job!
Need those kind of test on PA6-12..CF/GF
PET-CF
Pla is ok, but what about the special filament with glass/carbon fibers?
Would be great to see the same tests with the slowest printers and the print temperature gradually increased until strength was similar to the other printers...I have a MK4 and V400(like the sr only larger/better with direct drive) and I was always under the impression that the MK4 was superior to the v400 in regard to strength of prints...........
(the temp I use for PLA/PLA+ is 220c)
It's strange to see no differences between x1c and p1p ... I'm really lost
You should have used prusa structural 0.2 profile
Why are you running the Prusa so slow
Default setting for 0.2mm quality profile in Prusa Slicer. This is the profile I am always using and this is what I was curious about.
@@MyTechFun it looks like your are using the non input shaper MK4 printer in printer settings. There the printing profile name is quality. When you use the MK4 input shaper profile ( you need to add a new printer) the quality profile is named "structural".
@@Dauphin21x2 I don't use stock nozzle bolts any more. This is the disadvantage of stock input shaping, without possibility to do a vibration compensation test..
@@MyTechFunhave you tried is with your setup? I have also changed parts and found that the is setup is pretty robust regarding mass changes.
@@MyTechFun are you useing input shapeing
Again this vide0 doesn't show up in sub feed and I didn't get a n0tification...
Just for curiosity, are you "just" subscribed or with notification bell button too?
@@MyTechFun no I have been for some time and I got the notif for the last vide0 :|
@@MyTechFun Just to note that I didn't get it on my subs list either. Not using the notification bell, though.
@@MyTechFun I am subscribed with all notifications turned on and I was not notified. I have a lot of subscriptions, but it shouldn't stop me from getting this notification. TH-cam can be so frustrating. I did see the video pop up on my main feed when I opened the app, but no notification. So weird.
@@802Garage you are the second one who mentioned. So we need a 3rd level of subscription from YT? Like "real real notification button"
@My tech fun
Doesn't the P1P have a stainless steel nozzle by default?
Ok so bambu printers have either stainless or hardened steel nozzles, but that is only for their tip, the body is always brass and that is why you got similar results :)
A, something like bimetal on x1 max. Thx
@@MyTechFun 👍 thanks for another very useful video, and I think that you are right about slower printers letting layers cool more :)
Since SV08 has a solid unmoving bed, is it possible it's pushing the nozzle more forcefully against the last extrusion, while other beds can bend away slightly? Too small a difference to notice usually?
I wonder these results has anything to do with part cooling. Cnc kitchen had one test where he changed part cooling fan speed and he got different results. So maybe MK4 is cooling the part way too much or the slow print speed allows the part to cool down too much. I definitely did not expect MK4 to be one of the worst in terms of layer adhesion.
test TPU filament (different hardness), that could be interesting
I have 3 different printers and if I need high layer adhesion I use a 6mm3/s limited on all of them.
Depend of the printer, some machines are ready for higher speeds too. In case you missed it: th-cam.com/video/W3SCl302CP4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zF6nejGcS1jQpXjK
Okay so layer adhesion doesnt go out the window with speed if ur inside the flow rate of ur hotend. The sv08 i saw people with bad layer adhesion when printing fast. And it seems like you figured out why! Its not calibrated right. Good to know that its simply a E step issue
I have better video for this. If filament is properly melted, then the layer adhesion don't depend from speed to much. Until the same flow is served. th-cam.com/video/W3SCl302CP4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=etIJPGXReDxOdaaC
have you seen the new fiberon filaments by polymaker? I really hope you will test them, especially pps-cf and pet-cf :)
Yes, i saw them. Probably they will be tested too, after my vacation (and when I finish approx 5 brands waiting in the row to be stested).
@@MyTechFun awesome news thanks, you are a legend!
Hey My Tech Fun, I think it would be nice to also have a comparison of enclosed printers like the X1C or the QIUI with the door open or not open, to see if there's a difference for materials like PLA!
With PLA it's risky to print with closed printer, if heats go above heatbreak (and melts PLA in cold zone), that clog is hard to repair.
@@MyTechFun yea I actually now did a bit of research on the topic and people talk about heat creeping, although it never happened to me. Just wanted to know if with PLA we would also get greater layer adhesion with a higher temperature chamber
@@MyTechFun I have another question, if you can answer. What setting did you use for the Bambu lab printers? Default PLA? I'm saying this because this has a slower printing speed when compared to BambuLab's Basic PLA profile, which could result in higher values, as seen in the printer with the highest speeds!
You need to display the variation in the 4 tests for each printer that you did and not just the average value. I.e., - show the span of the strengths for each average value. This will give a more complete picture of the data.
I added standard deviation too. You can download the table with all measured numbers from: www.mytechfun.com/video/381
Hey, would it be possible to test the new High Speed PETG filaments and see how their properties differ from regular PETG? There is no such review on YT yet.
Elegoo Rapid PETG
Bambulab PETG HF
Esun ePETG+HS
This is all I found, but there might be more.
I realy wondered why the slow printers had so bad layer adhesion. Only thing I can imagine is that the temperature is to hot for the material and it begins to degrade because it is in the heat zone for to long. Would be realy great if you could test this.
Probably there is more temperature dilatation. One weak layer is enough. Chain is strong as the weakest link.